tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39097993313264523172024-03-08T07:42:52.503+01:00Knitting and so onLots of knitting, a bit of crochet and some ideas for recycling projects.SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.comBlogger380125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-49822304798368974382024-01-28T15:38:00.006+01:002024-01-28T21:13:16.559+01:00Brioche Intersections Scarf<p>I love two-colour brioche - it is a gorgeous technique because it creates a lovely, squishy texture that is comfortable to wear. Plus, it can be used to create quite intricate patterns.</p><p>This pattern is for a beautiful wide scarf – and uses a stitch where two brk-columns cross to create a pattern of Xs.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0nQki-tn2Xllawtul30WgHnoyBWYbwbdV0f6yo9idCzIVqsQap-1uBKlO2HEAJVYAt7zirO_r60goiMHUDZvaj_BYi-uizVb2lxNki3yQdtxUDs2DRyy1S-W1a6YKnmilZO9YtSt8_VlNTfWtFichWHKBZLfXFGXGtzOQHd-WHY6aGLKAO4fNMqtwaA/s3339/titel-hoch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3339" data-original-width="2541" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0nQki-tn2Xllawtul30WgHnoyBWYbwbdV0f6yo9idCzIVqsQap-1uBKlO2HEAJVYAt7zirO_r60goiMHUDZvaj_BYi-uizVb2lxNki3yQdtxUDs2DRyy1S-W1a6YKnmilZO9YtSt8_VlNTfWtFichWHKBZLfXFGXGtzOQHd-WHY6aGLKAO4fNMqtwaA/w488-h640/titel-hoch.jpg" width="488" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The knitting pattern is available via<br /><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/brioche-intersections" target="_blank">Ravelry</a></li><li>Loveknitting (soon)</li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/Ff5YB" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><p></p><p><br /></p><p>
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<br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The pattern PDF is 16 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>row-by-row pattern instructions</li><li>photo tutorials for the following brioche stitches</li><ul><li>brk2inc (two-stitch increase in brioche)</li><li>brkLdec (left leaning two-stitch decrease in brioche) </li><li>brkRdec (right leaning two-stitch decrease in brioche) </li><li>brkX (combination of a two-stitch decrease and two-stitch increase in brioche - to create Xs)</li></ul><li>a schematic of the construction and the increase/decrease stitches</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOxN2zSJxW15GNfO9-xX8_jX2_dMIlD12kFqMmOddnkE_HoonXQR0c2MyxNfayISkqDKlJCO3p0qWwV_91ouyOvZ1ykQjHW3fp8n56C4boUG-lCT-yEiWJ2HTwMvyyQNW-8z982GxXsgd_tpQvYvDQqXm6YFygweOv5iUDnzEF0eS3NhyphenhyphenJ3qNTnL-GOI/s3227/both-sides.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3227" data-original-width="3211" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhOxN2zSJxW15GNfO9-xX8_jX2_dMIlD12kFqMmOddnkE_HoonXQR0c2MyxNfayISkqDKlJCO3p0qWwV_91ouyOvZ1ykQjHW3fp8n56C4boUG-lCT-yEiWJ2HTwMvyyQNW-8z982GxXsgd_tpQvYvDQqXm6YFygweOv5iUDnzEF0eS3NhyphenhyphenJ3qNTnL-GOI/w398-h400/both-sides.jpg" width="398" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>To knit a similar scarf you need the following materials</div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of 310 grams of fingering weight yarn (i.e. about 155 grams of each color)– in two colours: I used two semi-solid yarns</li><ul><li>Wollmeise Pure (dark blue) </li><li>madelinetosh Tosh, Merino light, Frosty 470-O (very light mint)</li></ul><li>3.25 mm knitting needles – straight with double points or circulars</li><li>2 stitch markers</li><li>a tapestry needle for weaving in ends<br /></li></ul><div>The finished piece measures 155 cm in length and 42 cm in width (blocked).</div><div>As for gauge: in pattern 21 sts measured about 10 cm in width and 23 rows about 10 in height.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0B01IR2qMBv1jPkv0QnGnT_2m0d3KJAF_X1pxNXHK1XVFPdnbNbxAMOzbF9yY19FEsoswG9WnMkX8MWfTTYj_o5T6FwL7PZb0kyxkwIshPAphSKqJzPbfq22MprcA9r_hCIAEpThebby40pOTuF_mG-Ematn1OS7308ERcu0zURb3cq66U-_fIFq8XWQ/s3031/1000009311-02.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3031" data-original-width="3031" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0B01IR2qMBv1jPkv0QnGnT_2m0d3KJAF_X1pxNXHK1XVFPdnbNbxAMOzbF9yY19FEsoswG9WnMkX8MWfTTYj_o5T6FwL7PZb0kyxkwIshPAphSKqJzPbfq22MprcA9r_hCIAEpThebby40pOTuF_mG-Ematn1OS7308ERcu0zURb3cq66U-_fIFq8XWQ/w400-h400/1000009311-02.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-41572413302992518782023-11-03T10:46:00.010+01:002023-12-08T09:11:03.478+01:00Railroad Crossing Fingerless Gloves<p>I love knitting fingerless gloves. They usually are a relatively small project, but they can have quite fun and interesting constructions. These ones are designed in triangles around the thumb. The design makes use of the garter stitch feature that one ridge has about the same width and height. The knitting directions changes a few times, so it is a great way to display some self striping sock yarn.</p><p>I called them Railroad Crossing Fingerless Gloves because the flat piece reminded me of the traffic sign.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ijW_mAeUyYpk-kpeL0dKnhCiPQ6CBt70KuihrxiFk0NmGSGiMXUIDojBRbFifZOhbmzkWspFdqE8cQtJgDuKufajGOljwsKmK_9N1Y3b4gNKUuDovkH7frB0e4XyH09bxn3a30Ci1dz0Fihx3LSrs_-dAozpZgdSwJzfJu5hpKn7nuHKkhoHG8wJofI/s3088/Titel-pink.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2632" height="484" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ijW_mAeUyYpk-kpeL0dKnhCiPQ6CBt70KuihrxiFk0NmGSGiMXUIDojBRbFifZOhbmzkWspFdqE8cQtJgDuKufajGOljwsKmK_9N1Y3b4gNKUuDovkH7frB0e4XyH09bxn3a30Ci1dz0Fihx3LSrs_-dAozpZgdSwJzfJu5hpKn7nuHKkhoHG8wJofI/w413-h484/Titel-pink.jpg" width="413" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>The knitting pattern is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/railroad-crossing-fingerless-gloves" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/railroad-crossing-fingerless-gloves-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Lovecrafts</a></li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/aqgVs" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><p></p><p><br /></p><p>
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</p><p><br /></p><p>The pattern PDF is 20 pages long and contains </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece in <b><u>one size only</u></b> – including 19 in-process photos</li><li>an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction,</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)</li><li>kbf – knit through back and front of a stitch, a stitch that is symmetrical to a kfb</li><li>german short rows (with double-stitches) and how to work the resulting double-stitches </li><li>pick up and knit </li><li>pick up and connect, i.e. picking up a stitch and connecting it in a 90 degree angle to your knitting</li></ul></ul><div>This is <b><u>NOT a beginner pattern</u></b>.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Size and Gauge</b></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu7IkRBd4y8Qs5KFCMr1ZP7GkF_Gr4FsPS1fXnL8XOhkpmqNslmvTFhR1IcyPXM3yMP2fcVToKy83TY94H1OPOsJeXegOhyphenhyphenIXABX9Xz-uJRzA9nTIsc9XCHQ6AfpIpL5qGMMxyWl7zIVbBiq4zk0VmwGc8JAhnYiV__AVhAqKhxXoNrNYmW3dVSuIzuPA/s795/size-matters-800schmal.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="621" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu7IkRBd4y8Qs5KFCMr1ZP7GkF_Gr4FsPS1fXnL8XOhkpmqNslmvTFhR1IcyPXM3yMP2fcVToKy83TY94H1OPOsJeXegOhyphenhyphenIXABX9Xz-uJRzA9nTIsc9XCHQ6AfpIpL5qGMMxyWl7zIVbBiq4zk0VmwGc8JAhnYiV__AVhAqKhxXoNrNYmW3dVSuIzuPA/s320/size-matters-800schmal.png" width="250" /></a></div><br />To get a certain variation in size I knitted not only in 3mm needles (see picture on the right, top pair of mitts), but also one pair with 2.5 mm needles (see picture on the right, bottom pair of mitts):</div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece measures 19 cm in height, with a circumference of 15.5 cm at the top and 19 cm at the bottom.</li><li>With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures 16.5 cm in height, with a circumference of 14.5 cm at the top and 17 cm at the bottom.</li></ul></div><p></p><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>To knit these fingerless gloves you need the following <b>materials</b></div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>150 meters of fingering weight yarn weight yarn </li><ul><li>the pink-yellow ones (title picture) are knitted in Sockenwolle 4-fach Citron by Daniela's Wolltopf (colorway Neolino) - here's a link to <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/danielas-wolltopf-4fach-sockenwolle-zitron" target="_blank">the yarn's Ravelry page</a></li><li>the green/brown/azure blue ones (smaller ones in picture displaying the different sizes) are knitted in Regia 4-ply (Regia Spring Fling Color, colorway 3812) </li><li>the sky blue/light green ones with a bit of red and purple (see picture showing different views below) in knitted with Zwerger Opal Gutenachtgeschichten 4-ply (colorway Das Mädchen und der Blumendrache) - here's a link to <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/zwerger-garn-opal-gutenachtgeschichten" target="_blank">the yarn's Ravelry page</a></li></ul><li>3 mm knitting needles – I used 80 cm circulars as main needles to knit the thumb</li><li>two additional 3mm knitting needles – I used dpns to knit the panels around the thumb</li><li>a crochet hook that is a bit bigger than the knitting needles (I used a 4 mm hook) </li><li>a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends</li></ul></div><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJFjFerr5mJt8UvzeVoRfpK6tU5tLtLeYWfz2ee6WD66VXbfYD4oLJd5CjOEHtFp4KL03bE6aXdqt7mCGMifFEy7uii_xWolVKnp5t2ftdXUrWMpScZIAIq8uMiZrnKzLzylVjHTLTQYIFDI4qmlDiZFtx6hvP6xep0fEu4UI3NXZfYRW-9Ns0QwS3Tg/s2400/different-views.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="2400" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJFjFerr5mJt8UvzeVoRfpK6tU5tLtLeYWfz2ee6WD66VXbfYD4oLJd5CjOEHtFp4KL03bE6aXdqt7mCGMifFEy7uii_xWolVKnp5t2ftdXUrWMpScZIAIq8uMiZrnKzLzylVjHTLTQYIFDI4qmlDiZFtx6hvP6xep0fEu4UI3NXZfYRW-9Ns0QwS3Tg/w493-h164/different-views.jpg" title="Different views (before sewing up, and sewn up from both sides)" width="493" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different views (left: before sewing up, middle: back of hand, right: palm)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-47308129412418275802023-09-23T09:55:00.011+02:002023-11-04T14:49:58.225+01:00Rail Fence Fingerless Gloves<p>The inspiration for these mitts comes from a quilt pattern I saw on social media. I asked myself whether it would be possible to arrange similar panels around the thumb to created a pair of fingerless gloves. After a few tries, it worked. In fact, you could actually view it as one big entrelac piece around a thumb.</p><p>The name of quilt pattern that first inspired me is <a href="https://www.allpeoplequilt.com/quilt-patterns/quilt-blocks/rail-fence-quilt-block" target="_blank">Rail Fence</a>. However, the similarity is only visible if you look at the an unseamed mitt laid out flat. Because of the changes in knitting direction, this is a great way to showcase your self-striping yarn. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmpM9BWR6OF8ntkyFubfGGFpuxvwDy7MtxPJo5NID3GjTjnS-jAaoI9y7zM07z5XX0QEcPSMlfS-oqu-sWuCipoMZasagBUvLEZsZcBTqRV5J5P5OUuNMu1l-Gg1MdnKMniw-2VpedQif0JZFdEpdO43QSduAK0mnFZ-JltAKJ6jEosugNS4Qbcm0j_oQ/s1677/Titel-mit-Text.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1677" data-original-width="1431" height="497" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmpM9BWR6OF8ntkyFubfGGFpuxvwDy7MtxPJo5NID3GjTjnS-jAaoI9y7zM07z5XX0QEcPSMlfS-oqu-sWuCipoMZasagBUvLEZsZcBTqRV5J5P5OUuNMu1l-Gg1MdnKMniw-2VpedQif0JZFdEpdO43QSduAK0mnFZ-JltAKJ6jEosugNS4Qbcm0j_oQ/w425-h497/Titel-mit-Text.jpg" width="425" /></a></div><br /><p>This knitting pattern is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rail-fence-fingerless-gloves" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/jvPXE" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/rail-fence-fingerless-gloves-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra/" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a> </li></ul><p></p><p>
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</p><p> <br /></p><p>The pattern PDF is 14 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece in one size only – including 15 in-process photos</li><li>an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction, and explanations how to make them bigger or smaller</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)</li><li>kbf – knit through back and front of a stitch, a stitch that is symmetrical to a kfb</li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps</li><li>pick up and knit, pick up and purl</li><li>pick up and connect, i.e. picking up a stitch and connecting it in a 90 degree angle to your knitting</li></ul></ul><div><br /></div><p></p><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFEgjIcd4uiJ48uvS-GvT3mkZYuwaSn9yhF0eJ6craSMaoRyVWEIiWY4HXW_3yQXDbc8Bn5Kod2IiYc7jRCGcuAz3n2FLYfeGbmkGgD2s1kC1gfYOvb9Am-QKRDnmzb-L1ia6s9kQZqQNVbaQgpdzN_rRZFDM06cFnJvXOrpExLoFuVavjXlbhpp39fI/s800/measurements800.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="542" data-original-width="800" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJFEgjIcd4uiJ48uvS-GvT3mkZYuwaSn9yhF0eJ6craSMaoRyVWEIiWY4HXW_3yQXDbc8Bn5Kod2IiYc7jRCGcuAz3n2FLYfeGbmkGgD2s1kC1gfYOvb9Am-QKRDnmzb-L1ia6s9kQZqQNVbaQgpdzN_rRZFDM06cFnJvXOrpExLoFuVavjXlbhpp39fI/w320-h218/measurements800.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The finished piece measures 17 cm in height and about 17 cm in circumference (top and bottom and about a cm more at its widest point. The picture on the right shows one finished mitt and one just before sewing up the side seams.</div><p></p><div>As to gauge, in garter stitch 12 stitches gave 5 cm in width, and 12 ridges (24 rows) 5 cm in height – this was measured on an unblocked piece.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>To knit these mitts you need the following materials:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>130 meters of fingering weight yarn weight yarn - I used self-striping:</li><ul><li>for the ones in the title picture I used Zwerger Opal Rainforest, Colorway 9902</li><li>the pair on the pictures below was knitted with Zwerger Opal Blütenpracht, Colorway 54, Mohn Poppy</li></ul><li>3 mm knitting needles – I used 80 cm circulars as main needles</li><li>two additional 3mm knitting needles – I used dpns</li><li>a crochet hook that is a bit bigger than the knitting needles (I used a 4 mm hook) </li><li>a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends<br /></li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CNq0akcR9edIUCI_RVxgSXrKsQK3RUEkF5MtyLkmA2aubnrMP-3e8L8Zix3E_qVLl2eqErAwji4xQ0129X6kakzNPyaMnFeqZgqwO8Y2sNzQzAuEn80dnbdmfwrUwYlQPXxtlkfiiw3HehbympoO2zMPFb5uUnGSM-OCJtBChOR1EMj6RkBmy4kbWmw/s1218/2023-09-18%2010.46.46.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1218" data-original-width="1218" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CNq0akcR9edIUCI_RVxgSXrKsQK3RUEkF5MtyLkmA2aubnrMP-3e8L8Zix3E_qVLl2eqErAwji4xQ0129X6kakzNPyaMnFeqZgqwO8Y2sNzQzAuEn80dnbdmfwrUwYlQPXxtlkfiiw3HehbympoO2zMPFb5uUnGSM-OCJtBChOR1EMj6RkBmy4kbWmw/s320/2023-09-18%2010.46.46.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPpAbL6HB6CN6r6KGuOM4akiGvdecbNnSyYNWveHElm3EDofBA0CxfwRcw9IImmzSIUwONIXwliXzIl1jXRZvJ6TJVxCtj9N62KJYs8ehWkivs-ZIDNoGxV70Iqas8O2cWmNUjUCpB7IdpURLSDjNQH-UUBMavvRr-i8vLcdSv1EzUchcX4k0vHWEuYQ/s2759/2023-09-20%2015.25.02.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2759" data-original-width="2755" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPpAbL6HB6CN6r6KGuOM4akiGvdecbNnSyYNWveHElm3EDofBA0CxfwRcw9IImmzSIUwONIXwliXzIl1jXRZvJ6TJVxCtj9N62KJYs8ehWkivs-ZIDNoGxV70Iqas8O2cWmNUjUCpB7IdpURLSDjNQH-UUBMavvRr-i8vLcdSv1EzUchcX4k0vHWEuYQ/s320/2023-09-20%2015.25.02.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><div><br /></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-4916926709890691812023-08-12T15:07:00.013+02:002023-11-04T14:43:32.398+01:00Herbstlaub<p>Two-colour brioche is a marvellous technique. It creates a lovely, squishy texture that is comforable to wear and it can be used to create quite intricate patterns – in case of this scarf irregular leaves, like the ones falling in autumn. (“Herbstlaub” is the german word for autumn leaves.)</p><p>The middle stripe effect is created by switching the dominant color in the middle of a row.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXD3pUPicDl67-pYhwOvioyaemSdqtBbRTlpgE4p93ZTsMiS25Q0IjuIg2rFfm9UH56mBaeZaL-_NS8dTO1Sexs0hLKDYJdydzQJx7Pa4Kadk-uNatWJd1XB6aK8aUaDaOC3iHatwKaMYzCUrrAwWJ-B2klpuPqSBUZ9YqW5RvHJHgcCeyeV0Eu61u5Zc/s2244/titel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2244" data-original-width="2116" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXD3pUPicDl67-pYhwOvioyaemSdqtBbRTlpgE4p93ZTsMiS25Q0IjuIg2rFfm9UH56mBaeZaL-_NS8dTO1Sexs0hLKDYJdydzQJx7Pa4Kadk-uNatWJd1XB6aK8aUaDaOC3iHatwKaMYzCUrrAwWJ-B2klpuPqSBUZ9YqW5RvHJHgcCeyeV0Eu61u5Zc/w378-h400/titel.jpg" width="378" /></a></div><p>
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<br /></p><p></p><p>This knitting pattern is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/herbstlaub-9" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/nZMhO" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/herbstlaub-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a> </li></ul><div><br /></div><p></p><p>The pattern PDF is 14 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>row-by-row pattern instructions</li><li>a schematic and a description of the pattern idea</li><li>photo tutorials for the following brioche stitches</li><ul><li>brk4inc</li><li>brkLdec</li><li>brkRdec</li></ul></ul><p></p><p>In order to knit this pattern you should know how to knit two-colour brioche.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gsmwwX83rbH2Z6G_SLwJtlzRHLmvqDHBiAEmcy571QYgE09yP6RPHsXmQDToVNrwN63uObxhfdghMUt0BBKTXcIZEcMzD4HihxWSsovED9nkFU5s73yF5uAfPqE_lcrMYeWDnYbGivlHlAySB4xI846J74XDSOyfPPmzzmpZ7xeg1wPCo2CJHSxxBHk/s3468/2023-08-11%2019.05.19.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="3468" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gsmwwX83rbH2Z6G_SLwJtlzRHLmvqDHBiAEmcy571QYgE09yP6RPHsXmQDToVNrwN63uObxhfdghMUt0BBKTXcIZEcMzD4HihxWSsovED9nkFU5s73yF5uAfPqE_lcrMYeWDnYbGivlHlAySB4xI846J74XDSOyfPPmzzmpZ7xeg1wPCo2CJHSxxBHk/w372-h372/2023-08-11%2019.05.19.jpeg" width="372" /></a></div><br /><p>To knit a scarf like this you need the following materials:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of 1000 metres of fingering weight yarn – in two colours; for two-color brioche I prefer (semi-)solid colors<br />I used Wollmeise Pure Merino Superwash, two skeins (150grams each)</li><li>3.25 mm knitting needles – straight with double points or circulars</li><li>2 stitch markers</li><li>a tapestry needle for weaving in ends</li></ul><div>The finished piece measures 150 cm in length and 30 cm in width (unblocked) – and 160 cm in length and 35 in width (blocked). </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVLc0mcyVky6hKMLSa95BWaeJq9GczIh6YVaIzJBzsGfsD7OLDYMSBMi6wE10tYSEjK_69V1J5FY27NccXPFsWYTvbk4V9YQBjoHOV1hhEVo-YoTRTSXcQjGD-WbihUWE3yRJyR56zu8mfDHLwI2iNAShn5uFzFCArgH23QfuZvf_GypepjlEYf3A2EYc/s2700/quadrat3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2700" data-original-width="2700" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVLc0mcyVky6hKMLSa95BWaeJq9GczIh6YVaIzJBzsGfsD7OLDYMSBMi6wE10tYSEjK_69V1J5FY27NccXPFsWYTvbk4V9YQBjoHOV1hhEVo-YoTRTSXcQjGD-WbihUWE3yRJyR56zu8mfDHLwI2iNAShn5uFzFCArgH23QfuZvf_GypepjlEYf3A2EYc/w364-h364/quadrat3.jpg" width="364" /></a></div><br /><p style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-top: 0.2cm; text-align: center;"><br /></p><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-75366329928562973652023-07-02T13:27:00.009+02:002023-07-02T16:06:22.820+02:00Sæbebobler - Seifenblasen Lace Scarf in Danish<p>Marianne Holmen from <a href="http://strikkeglad.dk">strikkeglad.dk</a> has written another Danish translation of one of my free knitting patterns. This time for my Seifenblasen Lace Scarf. Mange tak!</p><p>Here's the <a href="https://strikkeglad.dk/42233/saebebobler/" target="_blank">link to the Danish version</a>.<br />And here's <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2014/05/seifenblasen-lace-scarf.html">the original English version</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZcCfTJBHuNC_q08svCtMNNmJLc4wN-qIYMBfqagaZQglq4WcKQ4ESpZ8zXz02ac_FZ7ZgaL0Nxd18tCKBkE8nN8HvLcxqL51OAii1ZNskBLwJ2dy-zBzg2es3pFlLDFfNpAoWTy0f9LOfPcqH3A6yRi6BQbEVQvZP03bkYW0iKjeHSxq5YesIDsmK5RI/s2048/2014-06-01%2014.56.17-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2047" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZcCfTJBHuNC_q08svCtMNNmJLc4wN-qIYMBfqagaZQglq4WcKQ4ESpZ8zXz02ac_FZ7ZgaL0Nxd18tCKBkE8nN8HvLcxqL51OAii1ZNskBLwJ2dy-zBzg2es3pFlLDFfNpAoWTy0f9LOfPcqH3A6yRi6BQbEVQvZP03bkYW0iKjeHSxq5YesIDsmK5RI/w400-h400/2014-06-01%2014.56.17-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-nc-sa/4.0/80x15.png" style="border-width: 0px;" /></a></p>This work by <span property="cc:attributionName" xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#"><a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/">Knitting and so on</a></span> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License</a>.<br /><div> <br />
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/badges/redirect?p=seifenblasen-lace-scarf"><img src="https://api.ravelry.com/badges/projects?p=seifenblasen-lace-scarf&t=.svg" style="border: none;" /></a><div><p>A list of all translated versions of my patterns <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/01/translations-of-my-patterns.html">can be found in this blogpost</a>.</p></div></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-7814540272536261142023-06-18T19:28:00.007+02:002023-06-19T20:01:06.762+02:00Art Deco Top<p>One of my favorite TV programs is the Great British Sewing Bee. It's not only very "feel-good" program with lovely contestants, it's also quite inspirational and also provides background information about the history of clothing. So when I saw episode 4 of season 7 of the Great British Sewing Bee (the year before last) where the contestants had to sew a made to measure inspired by Frida Kahlo and especially the huipils that some of their designs were based on, I wanted to make something similar in knitting.</p><p>Even though the inspiration came (in a very roundabout manner) from Frida Kahlo and mexican Huipil garments, my finished top didn't look like it at all. And when somebody on Instagram said the top reminded them of Art Deco patterns, I loved it and it stuck as a name.</p><p>This is a boxy top with a round neckline, short sleeves and side slits at the bottom edge. It is started with a magic CO in the middle and knitted outwards to the side and bottom seams.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0AHBDamtUXk4Pf1Yc6f7CtLJ2wlPhUXVKK2GUpR-132qjRm0ahLPw-TdQXuDmoVvGnfXTGadjaEThbyTUUZyKL1RkpbJHA5iFd_2EYOAQ4EdQhdeytu9uyJrpkgeNK0EUwTr8_1WNwsbvGZSIuuzvqmDDFkGqQ4ToecRWsM_0d352wj6EiwmXG7-J/s3490/titel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3490" data-original-width="2465" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0AHBDamtUXk4Pf1Yc6f7CtLJ2wlPhUXVKK2GUpR-132qjRm0ahLPw-TdQXuDmoVvGnfXTGadjaEThbyTUUZyKL1RkpbJHA5iFd_2EYOAQ4EdQhdeytu9uyJrpkgeNK0EUwTr8_1WNwsbvGZSIuuzvqmDDFkGqQ4ToecRWsM_0d352wj6EiwmXG7-J/w452-h640/titel.jpg" width="452" /></a></div><p>As with many of my sweater/top "patterns", this is <b><u>NOT</u> a row-by-row pattern</b> for various sizes, but rather a <b>rough recipe</b> of the ideas behind the construction of this garment. I will give the numbers I used for myself as an example <span style="color: #800180;">in purple</span>.</p><p>
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</p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Materials</b></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>yarn: I used a total of 300 grams of Sports weight yarn, the purple yarn was from my first attempt of my <a href="http://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2016/07/summertime-garter-stitch-top.html" target="_blank">Garter Stitch Summer top</a> -<a href="http://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2015/06/summer-top.html"> that eventually got frogged</a>, the orange yarn was leftovers from my <a href="http://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/05/eifel-cowl.html" target="_blank">Eifel Cowl</a> - I can imagine that it would also look nice to knit the whole top in one variegated yarn</li><li>knitting needles: I used 3.5mm circulars, (three pairs of circular needles, in the when front or back piece got big enough - one for each of the three edges)</li><li>a crochet hook of about the same size - for a crochet CO and for crocheting the neckline edge </li><li>scrap yarn - as a stitch holder</li><li>stitch markers</li><li>a tapestry needle to weave in ends</li></ul><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Techniques & Definitions</b></p><ul><li><b>Judy's Magic Cast-On</b> is a technique that gives you live stitches on both sides of your needle - it is generally used for toe-up socks, but it can be used for other purposes as well. Here's a <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html">written description (from Knitty)</a> and here's a <a href="http://youtu.be/lhBIS0AhhQY">YouTube-video</a> by Cat Bordhi and another <a href="https://youtu.be/GV9UaFgZ6Q0">YouTube-video</a> by Very Pink Knits. </li><li><b>Pick up and knit: </b>Picking up stitches from the side edge of your work as shown in <a href="https://youtu.be/k1HeRqgYe_8">this YouTube</a> video by B.Hooked Crochet & Knitting</li><li><b>kfb:</b> increasing by one stitch - by knitting into the front and back leg of a stitch; it is shown in <a href="https://youtu.be/0aJuJlqvV3M" target="_blank">this YouTube video</a> by Knit Purl Hunter</li><li><b>kbf: </b>a stitch that is symmetrical to a kfb; e.g. shown in this YouTube-video by Roxanne Richardson: <a href=" a stitch that is symmetrical to a kfb; e.g. shown in this YouTube-video by Roxanne Richardson: https://youtu.be/OJMya9xaol4 ">https://youtu.be/OJMya9xaol4 </a> (it's perfectly possible to do a kfb instead, I just prefered the symmetrical look for my stripe pattern)</li><li><b>Crochet CO:</b> shown in <a href="https://youtu.be/Vj_1S54hbPY" target="_blank">this YouTube video</a> by Knit Purl Hunter</li><li><b>Reverse Single Crochet (Crab Stitch):</b> a crochet stitch that makes for a lovely edging - shown in <a href="https://youtu.be/9TW0dBKoFck" target="_blank">this YouTube video</a> by Tamara Kelly - Moogly</li><li>One <b>garter stitch ridge</b> equals two rows of garter stitch</li></ul><div><br /></div><p><b>Measuring, Calculating & Construction</b></p><p>The whole top has a boxy construction - based on a rectangles - that may not be the most flattering shape. If you want more shaping you could add short rows (maybe an underarm wedge) - however, this is not described here. Ideas to change the shape and dimensions of the piece can be found below in section "Other sizes".</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6WrnmPnI6DJ4z2J2trx_Xr1ah0sWELBU5JJOJSF8Imq25_CyNPU7nZ944YGgEoCeYlUVKq_3iMSrAb01VGg0XRcvPhfSQEg_pNwOj-RvOgwkW2utcwmAtZ0t0Wbxi_UIAAo-J_zojhm2QyyQRmug4PXXZSAZPsia3Lj5G4z_e85dbR-_vFE6nkgD/s998/construction2.png" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="998" data-original-width="731" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6WrnmPnI6DJ4z2J2trx_Xr1ah0sWELBU5JJOJSF8Imq25_CyNPU7nZ944YGgEoCeYlUVKq_3iMSrAb01VGg0XRcvPhfSQEg_pNwOj-RvOgwkW2utcwmAtZ0t0Wbxi_UIAAo-J_zojhm2QyyQRmug4PXXZSAZPsia3Lj5G4z_e85dbR-_vFE6nkgD/w293-h400/construction2.png" width="293" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schematic - click on picture to enlarge</td></tr></tbody></table><p>The top is constructed as follows:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>each part (front & back) starts in the middle of the neckline with a magic CO;</li><li>then you will knit in an angled U-shape around this CO, with increases at the corners that form a rectangular pattern), if you knit according to the instructions, you will add five ridges to the length for each four ridges to the width on each side, i.e. the piece grows downwards and sideways;</li><li>meanwhile at the upper edge (neckline) you add increases to shape the rounded neckline - until you've reached the desired shoulder height; these neckline increases are different for front and back (the front neckline is deeper than the one in the back);</li><li>once you've reached the desired width, you only work on the lower edge to add length, the stitches on the sides are put on stitch holders (scrap yarn)</li><li>when you've finished front and back piece, you sew up the shoulder seams</li><li>for the arms, you pick up the required number of stitches around the shoulder seams (one half from the side seam of the back piece, the other half from the front piece) and knit them in rows</li><li>the sides are seamed up by holding rights sides together and doing a three needle BO</li><li>finally, the underarm seams and shoulder seans need to be sewn up</li></ul><p>The picture below shows the measurements that you need to take.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39eVKSRimtym629cYbBLMwV7rOH8XLJS5v_YdhHHk3b-y4QZR-VhUT1qKvjnu2dR_7PQYF3Qk4HtqfqVnPBstPshwvdZCbo7NTD-msoP_HHiy_xmIIxNKUtFb6woHdGnvRd3O6Dngk5m5JAj0QpJEvDoke_NRKdXfB7t-_qEmedJRhK2Xe6DJwMj6/s1176/construction.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="572" data-original-width="1176" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39eVKSRimtym629cYbBLMwV7rOH8XLJS5v_YdhHHk3b-y4QZR-VhUT1qKvjnu2dR_7PQYF3Qk4HtqfqVnPBstPshwvdZCbo7NTD-msoP_HHiy_xmIIxNKUtFb6woHdGnvRd3O6Dngk5m5JAj0QpJEvDoke_NRKdXfB7t-_qEmedJRhK2Xe6DJwMj6/w489-h238/construction.png" title="Measurements" width="489" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Measurements - click on picture to enlarge</td></tr></tbody></table><p>A = neck width<br />B = shoulder width<br />C = width of the piece (= A + 2xB)<br />D<sub>front</sub> = neck depth front <br />D<sub>back</sub> = neck depth back<br />E<sub>front</sub> = length of magic CO front <br />E<sub>back</sub> = length of magic CO depth back<br />to get the same overall shape for front and back piece, the front neck depth plus the front CO must equal the back neck depth plus the back CO (D<sub>front </sub>+ E<sub>front</sub> = D<sub>back</sub> + E<sub>back</sub>)<br />F = length of main piece (front & back)<br />G = additional length <br />H = shoulder to underarm (or half of the arm circumference at the top)<br />I = arm length</p><p><span style="color: #800180;">Knitted in garter stitch my yarn/needles combination gave </span></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="color: #800180;">10 cm in height for 22 ridges (44 rows) and </span></li><li><span style="color: #800180;">10 cm in width for 22 sts.</span></li></ul><p></p><p><span style="color: #800180;">My desired measurements were</span></p><p><span style="color: #800180;">A = about 21 cm, i.e. 45 ridges (i.e. 1 ridge for the magic CO plus 22 on each side, 22x2 + 1)<br />B = about 14,5 cm, i.e. 29 ridges<br />C = 50 cm ( = 2x14,5 + 21)<br /></span><span style="color: #800180;">D<sub>front</sub> = 12 cm, i.e. 25 sts<br />D<sub>back</sub> = 4.5 cm, i.e. 11 sts <br /></span><span style="color: #800180;">E</span><sub style="color: #800180;">front</sub><span style="color: #800180;"> = 7.5 cm, i.e. 18 sts<br /></span><span style="color: #800180;">E</span><sub style="color: #800180;">back</sub><span style="color: #800180;"> = 15 cm, i.e. 33 sts <br />F = 49 cm<br />G = 4 cm<br />H = 21 cm , i.e. 46 sts<br />I = about 6.5 cm, i.e. 14 ridges</span></p><p>Even though you can adapt the size while knitting, I strongly suggest that you <b><u>knit a swatch</u></b> before starting, so that you have a rough idea of the number of stitches necessary (at least for the CO). </p><p>Because of the construction (and the rate the piece grows), I would advise to do choose the magic CO to a length that D<sub>front </sub>+ E<sub>front</sub> make up for about 40% of the overall length of the piece (that's the distance from the shoulder seams to the lower edge of the magic CO). This aims for C and F being roughly equal.</p><p>Another important issue: Make sure to <b><u>take notes while you're knitting</u> your pieces</b> so that you can reconstruct it later, i.e. so that the back matches the front or the left sleeve matches the right.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Instructions</b></p><p>While you're knitting the main stripe pattern, you will at the same time have to increase along the neckline. Since - depending on your yarn weight and desired size - these issues need to be addressed separately, they are explained separately below. </p><p><br /></p><p><i>Front - Main stripe pattern</i></p><p>You start knitting in the middle of the neckline. I wanted a rounded, wide(-ish) neck and about 12 cm deep. So I "started" the mCO in the knowledge that there would be 25 sts to increase to shape the neckline.</p><p>In MC do a magic CO so that there is one stitch more on the top than on the bottom needle (the additional stitch will make up the horizontal line of the pattern (see picture 1, the top needle has one more stitch than the bottom one).</p><p><span style="color: #800180;">I did a magic CO of 2x18+1 sts (i.e. after the neck increases are added the lower edge of the magic CO is 18 + 25 = 43 sts away from the shoulder seam)</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNza4vkKydgY-G2dw2bWXppzBrk2scco8-tB_G6w8GLF-pGKOiSsmiTnXqB5doWm-GbtM8VdnFCSTkeY9YEk9hzSa5PCyIAT1f57eVcObycZIz7w91diqOeHhQNSTGnr4OEMBYx1VY6mP0-kJ8y6S6doC6C1_YESl_IT01xn54K2g_7P9OxJaPO38-/s1510/illustration1-3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="1510" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNza4vkKydgY-G2dw2bWXppzBrk2scco8-tB_G6w8GLF-pGKOiSsmiTnXqB5doWm-GbtM8VdnFCSTkeY9YEk9hzSa5PCyIAT1f57eVcObycZIz7w91diqOeHhQNSTGnr4OEMBYx1VY6mP0-kJ8y6S6doC6C1_YESl_IT01xn54K2g_7P9OxJaPO38-/w400-h133/illustration1-3.png" width="400" /></a></div><p>Turn the needle so that you look at the garter stitch bumps (see picture 2), the needle with the additional stitch is still on top, however, the last stitch is not secured. Therefore, before you start knitting twist tail and working yarn once to secure the first stitch of the row (see picture 3). </p><p>In MC</p><p>Ridge 1: (RS) top needle, ktbl to last stitch on top needle, kfb, switch to bottom needle, k1, kbf, k to end<br /> (WS): k to 2 bef end of needle, pm, k2, switch to other needle, k1, pm, k to end</p><p><span style="color: #800180;">In case of my magic CO this was:<br />Ridge 1: (RS) ktbl 17, kfb, k1, kbf, k17, turn<br /><span> </span>(WS) k18, pm, k3, pm, k18</span></p><p>Ridge 2: (RS) k all, turn<br /><span> </span> (WS) k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to end</p><p>In CC</p><p>Ridge 3 (RS): k all, turn<br /><span> </span>(WS) k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to end</p><p>in MC</p><p>Ridge 4: (RS) k all, turn<br /><span> </span>(WS) k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to end<br />Ridge 5: (RS) k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to end, turn<br /><span> </span>(WS) k to m, sm, k to m, turn; (RS) k to m, turn (WS) k to m, sm, pick up one stitch from edge, k to end</p><p>Pictures 4 to 6 illustrate how to pick up a stitch in the middle of a row. When knitting row 10 after you've turn for the second time and knitted up to the next marker you find a (short) edge (one ridge high) from which you have to pick up one stitch (see pointer in picture 4). You then insert the needle into that stitch (picture 5) and draw a loop of your working yarn through (picture 6).<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6uQF_nPVFs2Ickdkef9ztKMHj83kic5b0f5Rc9tKNM0jkCbWQ4jDTHHYlLkJay0MPx_Lp8-sDQuSsrybiTLI1hZcJ-MMzsCYvLXNoRqjCZybiO9azMulnfMsjugsStkvg7xziwO-xbk7BeNAAGiF1VcST8FUxx1Pbb4uDQQAsO43Rf-2oYXiqGE1/s1510/illustration4-6.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="1510" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6uQF_nPVFs2Ickdkef9ztKMHj83kic5b0f5Rc9tKNM0jkCbWQ4jDTHHYlLkJay0MPx_Lp8-sDQuSsrybiTLI1hZcJ-MMzsCYvLXNoRqjCZybiO9azMulnfMsjugsStkvg7xziwO-xbk7BeNAAGiF1VcST8FUxx1Pbb4uDQQAsO43Rf-2oYXiqGE1/w400-h132/illustration4-6.png" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The pictures also show that after a few ridges, I put the stitches between the markers (vertical part of the stripe pattern) on another needle. That way the piece is not distorted by being bunched up on two needles only. As the piece grew bigger I switched to 3 sets of circulars - one for each edge. (The "end of needle" did the job of the stitch marker.)<br /><p>in CC</p><p>Ridge 6: (RS) k to m, sm, k to m, sm, pick up one stitch from edge, k to end, turn<br /><span> </span>(WS: k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to 1 bef m, kfb, sm, kbf, k to end</p><p>Repeat ridges 4 to 6 until the colored panel is as big as you want it.<br />Then continue repeating ridges 4 to 6 in MC only.</p><p>(It theory, you could do the increases (kfb/kbf) always on RS. The reason I alternated is that it looked better with the stripe pattern, i.e. if you do a kfb in the first row after a color change, you see a little bump of the color below and I wanted to avoid that.)</p><p><span style="color: #800180;">I knitted 12 repeats, i.e. I knitted 12 CC stripes. Than I added 5 more repeats in MC only.</span></p><p><br /></p><p><i>Front - neckline shaping</i></p><p><b>WHILE </b>you're knitting the main stripe pattern, you need to increase at the beginning and end of some rows to shape the neckline. Since I wanted a rounded neckline, I started with few increases, raising their number towards the outer edge of the neckline. </p><p>I would advise that - once you calculated the width and height of your neckline - draft the desired shape on graph paper and do your increases accordingly.</p><p><span style="color: #800180;">The picture below shows the left half of the front neckline and how I distributed the increases - starting from the magic CO.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuXrkw2ZlYfTYu6snl--nVeJhn1tWAV4DQF6gG8bYo2dBa0EKoYiH_yps8SVrDDhFMIXpU3uqHVgfBU7Nbua23eSDxrrnaGvrISMbNf_KCpNsuK2Ilsl1lY2gCaL2kKpnfhqiSqwXYSDcBlkt2YVswI7aQ9qDUiOztSZNfc8sVaqfaD3N1k07-12um/s759/neckline-front.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="486" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuXrkw2ZlYfTYu6snl--nVeJhn1tWAV4DQF6gG8bYo2dBa0EKoYiH_yps8SVrDDhFMIXpU3uqHVgfBU7Nbua23eSDxrrnaGvrISMbNf_KCpNsuK2Ilsl1lY2gCaL2kKpnfhqiSqwXYSDcBlkt2YVswI7aQ9qDUiOztSZNfc8sVaqfaD3N1k07-12um/w256-h400/neckline-front.png" width="256" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neckline Shaping - click on picture to enlarge</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Increase in the beginning and end of one row means that I did a kfb at the second and the second to last stitch, i.e.: <br /><span> </span>k1, kfb (instructions for this row until 1 bef end), kfb, k1</p><p>At last ridge I did a crochet CO of 9 stitches at the beginning and the end of the row.</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Finishing the front piece</i></p><p>If your piece isn't long enough, knit a few more ridges using the stitches of the lower edge. <br /><span style="color: #800180;">I lenghtened both pieces by 6 ridges (12 rows) before binding off.</span></p><p>Put the stitches of the side edges on scrap yarn.</p><p>Your last row is a WS row.</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Back</i></p><p>The back piece is knit similar to the front piece EXCEPT that</p><ul><li>the original magic CO is longer because the back neckline is shallower</li><li>the neckline increases are different</li></ul><p><span style="color: #800180;">For my piece I wanted a neck depths of 10 sts, therefore I did a magic CO of 2x33 + 1 stitches (i.e. the total distance from the lower edge of the magic CO to the shoulder seam is 33 + 10 = 43 sts - the same as for the front piece.</span></p><p><span style="color: #800180;"><span>The picture below shows one half of the back neckline - starting from the magic CO, i.e. the distribution of the back neck increases.</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizfWPAopHj93Fx_LvTerBHYgyOh-Ims44C6eVoJqICknR2RXatxGauslaShuvMliDZfAjmPuU1VR3D0X_6ZiSgHzD9o5PUDE8cjxf7q8JyMiSFmxSDWM3oIWr0RYdMBYMhT1BgFmJqf8zijj7eHabPQoNFp2vgIAYsxhcd5VpukfpkXnbGXmoHRW-/s681/neckline-back.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="488" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgizfWPAopHj93Fx_LvTerBHYgyOh-Ims44C6eVoJqICknR2RXatxGauslaShuvMliDZfAjmPuU1VR3D0X_6ZiSgHzD9o5PUDE8cjxf7q8JyMiSFmxSDWM3oIWr0RYdMBYMhT1BgFmJqf8zijj7eHabPQoNFp2vgIAYsxhcd5VpukfpkXnbGXmoHRW-/w286-h400/neckline-back.png" width="286" /></a></div><br /><p>Lengthen the back (knitting rows over the stitches of the lower edge) by the same amount of rows as you did with your front piece.</p><p>Put the stitches of the side edges on scrap yarn. </p><p>Your last row is a WS row.</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Sleeves</i></p><p>Calculate how many stitches you need for your sleeves. </p><p><span style="color: #800180;">For my arms I needed 2x46 sts.</span> So I slipped the calculated number of the uppermost stitches of the right hand side of the front piece <span style="color: #800180;">(starting from the 46th stitch)</span> and the same number of the uppermost stitches of the right hand side of the back piece (starting from the shoulder) on a back.</p><p>Starting on RS of the piece, knit the required number of rows to reach your desired sleeve length.</p><p>Do the same for the other sleeve.</p><p><span style="color: #800180;">I knitted just very short sleeves, i.e. only 14 ridges per arm before BO.</span></p><p><br /></p><p><i>Finishing</i></p><p>With right sides together, put the left side stitches of front and back pieces from your scrap yarn on knitting needles and do a three needle BO<span style="color: #800180;"> (in my case it was 2 x 59 sts)</span>. Do the same with the right side stitches. That does not connect the additional (lengthening) rows you did at the end of the piece - which achieves a nice seam slit effect.</p><p>Sew up the open arm seams (underarm).</p><p>Sew up the shoulder seams.</p><p>If you like, add a crochet border to the neckline; I used the reverse single crochet stitches (also known as crab stitch). </p><p>Weave in all ends.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEityEmtpFpwepqGm9mJkMuFhtVEphI_uZQtR5V-DyiBf3VEBGZk8Gp3NAjIWFIEA2zKM0gxzh3kC-FYeVJS8p2tmUzCosC2cdQwJPLfVRgWMZtyCAZJkpkGFLsuUj8YoYjqZC_vbs8cfL353uhxDdP0FqV3W_6p7F9LHeeFBN3ICUWfYnRJvk_1Obzi/s2698/20220711_201216-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2698" data-original-width="2698" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEityEmtpFpwepqGm9mJkMuFhtVEphI_uZQtR5V-DyiBf3VEBGZk8Gp3NAjIWFIEA2zKM0gxzh3kC-FYeVJS8p2tmUzCosC2cdQwJPLfVRgWMZtyCAZJkpkGFLsuUj8YoYjqZC_vbs8cfL353uhxDdP0FqV3W_6p7F9LHeeFBN3ICUWfYnRJvk_1Obzi/w400-h400/20220711_201216-01.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Other Sizes</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In order to adapt this top to other shapes (i.e. other than the square main piece described above) you could for example do the following:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Start with a longer (shorter) magic CO to get a narrower (wider) rectangular main piece.</li><li>Knit underarm short row triangles (before knitting the sleeves) to shape the piece around the bust; with the wide part on the top right under the arm; then - when starting the sleeves; when you start to knit your sleeves you need to start in the middle of the upper edge of that triangle by picking up stitches from the edge then knit the first row of the sleeve and then picking up stitches from the second half of the short row triangle edge. </li><li>Knit darts by inserting decreases at breast height towards the last rows of the piece - equally on both vertical edges of the front piece. To make them less obvious, I would start them after finishing the stripe pattern. To make both pieces (front and back) the same underarm length, you need to adapt (decrase) the magic CO of the back piece by decreasing it accordingly, i.e. if there are 5 darts decreases on each edge of the front piece, the magic CO of the back piece needs to be 5 sts shorter.</li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPmcsaNo_Nk07MqDcQMjjQTqx5gk3faMHE18u38MtgM7zRyKYfnL_-N3IEgYcJoDPzRTixFAHL1rCu6Se0rl7eSNyzZbdQXCaUqxhaBUkls0H98b3LE9_ijsHtm8JZpksDCmuR4Lie0DVjsiuargcSvUXs7mfv65q6dG309nd4tESLCVy_6nlWoB-/s1700/20230618_135452-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1700" data-original-width="1700" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPmcsaNo_Nk07MqDcQMjjQTqx5gk3faMHE18u38MtgM7zRyKYfnL_-N3IEgYcJoDPzRTixFAHL1rCu6Se0rl7eSNyzZbdQXCaUqxhaBUkls0H98b3LE9_ijsHtm8JZpksDCmuR4Lie0DVjsiuargcSvUXs7mfv65q6dG309nd4tESLCVy_6nlWoB-/w400-h400/20230618_135452-01.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-30821461296176168322023-03-31T19:45:00.009+02:002023-04-17T19:01:11.357+02:00Aunt Dahlia<p>Knitting experiments are fun. You can try what's possible with a range of techniques. So, after knitting my <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2022/09/garter-stitch-snowflake.html">Garter Stitch Snowflake</a>, I wanted to try something similar with a contrasting color to contour the petals. </p><p>This doily (placemat, potholder ...) consists of 60 short-row diamonds that stack up to be triangles which in turn form a (slightly angular) circle – or a spiky hexagon. It starts with a provisional cast on and is finished by grafting in garter stitch. It is quite fiddly and <b>not a beginner pattern</b>. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRdQPG_hfE5u8m1xF1FsLcpwHbJr5R_qmWxjBU-cmehqZir2b615aPIjI2tLK43vjxjP0iyH-5csKoiN8nPurr2HzIvyjZTxCaz5Rt1MofJ0tjs5Wfas39XFaiNNSg8Cnv-gXYu-wz5t29WHc25zfoPIYVMVyOWsU2RQk874ZkPBJsiiQev_vs4bj/s3618/titel2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3618" data-original-width="2992" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRdQPG_hfE5u8m1xF1FsLcpwHbJr5R_qmWxjBU-cmehqZir2b615aPIjI2tLK43vjxjP0iyH-5csKoiN8nPurr2HzIvyjZTxCaz5Rt1MofJ0tjs5Wfas39XFaiNNSg8Cnv-gXYu-wz5t29WHc25zfoPIYVMVyOWsU2RQk874ZkPBJsiiQev_vs4bj/w424-h512/titel2.jpg" width="424" /></a></div><p>
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</p><p></p><p>This knitting pattern is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aunt-dahlia" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/aunt-dahlia-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra/" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/OZK0k" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJhPcPrE7NmikSP_PCP3-zbAnF6f25jqjh2wUfn98xCd5JYbAcIV9rLQfDvyYAU8B7QPF6dq8duZ4SjD-Oy6cRMO7o8nJf64etbwgsfvftrkDqGTr_anucx25JQ4N_VtyB6_KHFqQiFHmx7EABYbchX31o1roF71pXmB8z_IA4S_0ZinVEaqfhwqDn/s3080/pink-smarties.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3080" data-original-width="3080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJhPcPrE7NmikSP_PCP3-zbAnF6f25jqjh2wUfn98xCd5JYbAcIV9rLQfDvyYAU8B7QPF6dq8duZ4SjD-Oy6cRMO7o8nJf64etbwgsfvftrkDqGTr_anucx25JQ4N_VtyB6_KHFqQiFHmx7EABYbchX31o1roF71pXmB8z_IA4S_0ZinVEaqfhwqDn/s320/pink-smarties.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The pattern PDF contains <p></p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece – including 8 in-process photos</li><li>an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction, i.e. how the diamonds stack up to create the whole piece</li><li>chart(s) of one diamond</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>provisional CO with a crochet hook and undoing it</li><li>grafting in garter stitch</li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps </li><li>crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)</li><li>weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)</li></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfon9TlkGIrFepPowGR6Hw_Lwc4rbGl-5tBJkIiEJPN8opNi0qalKOHhZkSqeIR-e9K-Kri9pGZa-c8lhqnWvz4s_3qWpxUr1DA14RRUQ2Cr0mMgVCFV61v2U5kXUmd30zArFAlwmaqBiVQDb788ySWJzgEvF-2T5NWsgO2Y8KcDaPwTVm5yxBsy10/s2877/titel-quadrat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2876" data-original-width="2877" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfon9TlkGIrFepPowGR6Hw_Lwc4rbGl-5tBJkIiEJPN8opNi0qalKOHhZkSqeIR-e9K-Kri9pGZa-c8lhqnWvz4s_3qWpxUr1DA14RRUQ2Cr0mMgVCFV61v2U5kXUmd30zArFAlwmaqBiVQDb788ySWJzgEvF-2T5NWsgO2Y8KcDaPwTVm5yxBsy10/s320/titel-quadrat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To knit this piece you need the following materials:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Sports weight yarn </li><ul><li>120 metres in MC (main colour)</li><li>50 metres in CC (contour colour)</li></ul><li>2.5 mm knitting needles </li><li>a crochet hook of a similar size (I used a 2.5mm hook) </li><li>scrap yarn</li><li>a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends</li></ul></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The finished piece knitted in Sports weight yarn measures 30 - 33 cm in diameter.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Another one knitted in Lace weight yarn measured 26 - 29 cm in diameter.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1H4tHKez1jdlBmX0cIZM9qV4ufXyx9Y63Nf52-D-j9ewri7GbcB01Q2PjWrHG60WEwZO07uDDMe01e9sY0ydsY-9p9Hhysh8l38CDT-9LzvTXk6Mr5er5-7HoDZQ_GJDeWv16sThVToegwqjxMVl03xmjmE05hLMJZWr-AMeE1YPbCUyRRfx5S-k/s3014/WS.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3014" data-original-width="3014" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV1H4tHKez1jdlBmX0cIZM9qV4ufXyx9Y63Nf52-D-j9ewri7GbcB01Q2PjWrHG60WEwZO07uDDMe01e9sY0ydsY-9p9Hhysh8l38CDT-9LzvTXk6Mr5er5-7HoDZQ_GJDeWv16sThVToegwqjxMVl03xmjmE05hLMJZWr-AMeE1YPbCUyRRfx5S-k/s320/WS.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrong side of the piece</td></tr></tbody></table><br />SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-9983317158094985492023-02-26T17:27:00.017+01:002023-03-31T09:28:49.404+02:00Firebird<p>Short rows and variegated yarn are a gorgeous combination because of the yarn is shown in the best possible way. This shawl consists of rhombuses that stack up to be triangles which in turn form a (slightly angular) semi-circle – or to be precise half of an octagon.</p><p>Even though this shawl is knitted all in garter stitch, it is NOT an instant gratification project because it requires some concentration. </p><p>Knitted in Lace weight yarn the finished and blocked piece measures about 159 cm in width and about 78 cm in depth. Since it is knitted all in garter stitch, it basically looks the same on both sides.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw7gg5m9-SBJpUaSKtMZiEB0SO1ZqvAzdo8VMdctL-ZsbVN-Lt6mv8zCjjvWLs4hO7n_pd5EHBva_8T3EuFcOHIwhU0aBMljqOijG9Btb4vdKfUsXQUGIwr4ScUIRNURR3oncZ_IpPaRSgK1hlyBpJ7UO1Pxo8YxDV4Ahnywbc5uUwYU8gJsH3NAtI/s2579/titel2000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2579" data-original-width="2000" height="615" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw7gg5m9-SBJpUaSKtMZiEB0SO1ZqvAzdo8VMdctL-ZsbVN-Lt6mv8zCjjvWLs4hO7n_pd5EHBva_8T3EuFcOHIwhU0aBMljqOijG9Btb4vdKfUsXQUGIwr4ScUIRNURR3oncZ_IpPaRSgK1hlyBpJ7UO1Pxo8YxDV4Ahnywbc5uUwYU8gJsH3NAtI/w477-h615/titel2000.jpg" width="477" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
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The pattern PDF is available via<p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/firebird-12" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/firebird-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/hV2fb" target="_blank">Payhip</a> </li></ul><p></p><p>The pattern PDF is 15 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece</li><li>schematic of the construction, i.e. how the rhombuses stack up to create the shawl</li><li>chart(s) of one rhombus</li><li>a cheat sheet that summarizes the pattern on one page</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps</li><li>crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)</li><li>backwards loop CO</li></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0dkOo6r_3H3bIXlltzAYmHRNj01WYZalX5DFvfzJZjpwYKO-bNXgZS8k5TLzdHZ7dp7MrLY01uHDPhaYhAtdNWxuX8AbC0LpxqrdKSFDghUz1Ofnihny9x2yWeYYFMO5FY1OOMK2zxlC0Hec9yTirJTH9GmEic9ykA-VjnFPzDFZdhP_t4UJC3vrc/s3317/firebird-square2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3317" data-original-width="3317" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0dkOo6r_3H3bIXlltzAYmHRNj01WYZalX5DFvfzJZjpwYKO-bNXgZS8k5TLzdHZ7dp7MrLY01uHDPhaYhAtdNWxuX8AbC0LpxqrdKSFDghUz1Ofnihny9x2yWeYYFMO5FY1OOMK2zxlC0Hec9yTirJTH9GmEic9ykA-VjnFPzDFZdhP_t4UJC3vrc/w400-h400/firebird-square2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div>To knit this piece you will need the following materials</div><div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>about 1900 metres of Lace weight yarn – I used Wollmeise Lace (colorway Allegria) - here's a <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/rohrspatz--wollmeise-lace-garn" target="_blank">link to the yarn's Ravelry page</a></li><li>3.25mm knitting needles – I used circulars that were 80 cm long</li><li>a crochet hook of a similar size (I used a 3.5mm hook)</li><li>a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends</li><li>7 stitch markers</li><li>(at least) 1 removable stitch marker to mark the RS of the piece</li></ul></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibpglAhdK5bB7oj0vn8eadTX6WG6bOrRdDaqcPWejAEuJTuB5z7Pd6zHwseLsKxuY4CfyL2bYBdX625Qcd1J2uoiT9eWyzm041W-arWEECVjgMczLkMkk8moRBwH3cmZYnOkKG-UcGKsd9cu51flWXARyrDGPXA69MSCqXOfAzzpE9uMLdebOr9z8V/s2064/firebird-square3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2064" data-original-width="2064" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibpglAhdK5bB7oj0vn8eadTX6WG6bOrRdDaqcPWejAEuJTuB5z7Pd6zHwseLsKxuY4CfyL2bYBdX625Qcd1J2uoiT9eWyzm041W-arWEECVjgMczLkMkk8moRBwH3cmZYnOkKG-UcGKsd9cu51flWXARyrDGPXA69MSCqXOfAzzpE9uMLdebOr9z8V/w400-h400/firebird-square3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-57842586706404314932023-01-23T16:34:00.014+01:002023-03-31T09:29:08.682+02:00Gateways Cowl<p>When it's not really cold, but still a bit chilly, a thick scarf may be a bit too much. So a lightweight cowl that fits around the neck is the perfect accessoire. </p><p>This cowl is knitted in the round in two-colour brioche. Two-colour brioche is a marvellous technique. With two contrasting colours you can create gorgeous effects and pattern. I especially love it, when brk-stitches cross and a lattice effect is created. The stitch used to do this can be combined in many ways. With this cowl it is combined with plain two-colour brioche to knit a diamond pattern at and offset. </p><p>The finished cowl measures 61 cm in circumference and 29 cm in height. Using Lace weight wool and wool/silk blend, the finished piece weighs less than 50 grams.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKzX_Poh3z92eIL2d8DgCecyjbSaK9Bac7tJjSYLiNn4Cif-Y8FTMqPvJuwOOwg_6eHiWB99S0MhK3hlPIJDIDM91Ney-2I47gihkUQ5Lq8iMgI5Qgw2MvHH0kEnEDhSUi5TN14NoSVNi6P1YN5glt22pjVuEWnSVNk5b_Bnje9uSQJWPLjl-kK1U-/s3607/titel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3607" data-original-width="2960" height="533" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKzX_Poh3z92eIL2d8DgCecyjbSaK9Bac7tJjSYLiNn4Cif-Y8FTMqPvJuwOOwg_6eHiWB99S0MhK3hlPIJDIDM91Ney-2I47gihkUQ5Lq8iMgI5Qgw2MvHH0kEnEDhSUi5TN14NoSVNi6P1YN5glt22pjVuEWnSVNk5b_Bnje9uSQJWPLjl-kK1U-/w438-h533/titel.jpg" width="438" /></a></div><br /><p>The pattern PDF is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/gateways-cowl" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/gateways-cowl-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Lovecrafts</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/OLpAm" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><div><br /></div>
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<p>The pattern PDF is 8 pages long and contains:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>row-by-row pattern instructions</li><li>a chart of a pattern repeat</li><li>photo tutorial for brioche stitch that creates the lattice effect</li></ul><div>To knit this cowl you should have a basic knowledge of knitting two-colour brioche.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZJgin9uOPsEp-0vDFvXcM0POg9tyU9OseP9qa6r1Q0Tim6CIeboJO1oieKjTuCIvJZdPsrO_zeRuNPaYfjWk_F55fg8GeSGoKe5none0nWFDMlz8c4hmsXpmvk00MGqZq4V6qlPRgjFxXKXJCQZbbOlQtmInbARSwFmZLwJ5gfKnmY0U044CZdhF/s3196/dark-side.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3196" data-original-width="3195" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGZJgin9uOPsEp-0vDFvXcM0POg9tyU9OseP9qa6r1Q0Tim6CIeboJO1oieKjTuCIvJZdPsrO_zeRuNPaYfjWk_F55fg8GeSGoKe5none0nWFDMlz8c4hmsXpmvk00MGqZq4V6qlPRgjFxXKXJCQZbbOlQtmInbARSwFmZLwJ5gfKnmY0U044CZdhF/w357-h357/dark-side.jpg" width="357" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dark side (inside) of this cowl</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>To knit this cowl you will need the following materials</div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>about 400 metres (in total) of Lace weight yarn – in two colours. I used: </li><ul><li>as LY: Lana Grossa Fine (color 19) - link to the <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/lana-grossa-cool-wool-fine" target="_blank">yarn's Ravelry page</a></li><li>as DY: West Yorkshire Spinners Exquisite Lace (color 741, Mayfair) - link to the <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/west-yorkshire-spinners-exquisite-lace" target="_blank">yarn's Ravelry page</a></li></ul><li>3 mm circular knitting needles (40 cm length)</li><li>2 stitch markers</li><li>a tapestry needle for weaving in ends<br /></li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRi2yag24C5EhEObmoGz85lof4YmNmsOf05n2rYqrIGVEKiUaxkMI_WTgBDQCDyKILCm7z0HxglEKm7dRX-YqY1yVSv1uzJIPDOgzmXLCwMdVDZu08ll2dO-PyYOhD2Rjdr8q8-QotX5ajEchmlKFjddlAMdqyhL9NwlaHa-dS0L3_s6iOAlH57MLT/s1332/am-mann-quadrat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1323" data-original-width="1332" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRi2yag24C5EhEObmoGz85lof4YmNmsOf05n2rYqrIGVEKiUaxkMI_WTgBDQCDyKILCm7z0HxglEKm7dRX-YqY1yVSv1uzJIPDOgzmXLCwMdVDZu08ll2dO-PyYOhD2Rjdr8q8-QotX5ajEchmlKFjddlAMdqyhL9NwlaHa-dS0L3_s6iOAlH57MLT/w370-h368/am-mann-quadrat.jpg" width="370" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-3850341376982935172022-10-07T14:17:00.009+02:002022-10-24T14:03:01.896+02:00WiFi Signal Cowl<p>The WiFi Signal cowl is knitted in the round in two-colour brioche. The stitch pattern was first inspired by traditional japanese Seigaiha pattern (青海波), but when I looked at the finished piece it really reminded me of the symbol for a WiFi Signal.</p><p>The cowl is long enough to fit twice around your neck. Because it's two colour brioche it has a lovely squishy texture. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPvBzD6BpQNdzqDn2uV2qygoN3Gn-WK5JUZJ9SCnfWcdkSppQO8quH60jGd2UxQQUfJnOVjbVa0HLJh4RJZyS4yvGx29jPTMTjVeWkITiC1hj2jZk7z7pV00nX8G4CNiAC7_dhwS1ospIIHu2USsTQjsy5Jtdhdmc7MxFjKtEoEGcTksCk8nDipZA4=s3835" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3835" data-original-width="2825" height="589" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjPvBzD6BpQNdzqDn2uV2qygoN3Gn-WK5JUZJ9SCnfWcdkSppQO8quH60jGd2UxQQUfJnOVjbVa0HLJh4RJZyS4yvGx29jPTMTjVeWkITiC1hj2jZk7z7pV00nX8G4CNiAC7_dhwS1ospIIHu2USsTQjsy5Jtdhdmc7MxFjKtEoEGcTksCk8nDipZA4=w434-h589" width="434" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
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<p>The knitting pattern is available as a PDF via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wifi-signal-cowl" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/wifi-signal-cowl-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/K2lU1" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPfrn55suiYE_W1f9tSFLgMRquEnnApqdciQF7y8225fgokDLEmlMjDOVWQQ5stuCNT_p03d-ND0UXb73_cHzhYtZcjU4t71K9lgBM0hQaWuXL-Obc7Uck8ib32qdYCDH8wjuIyzaWjNsvKntDo4uhjw2pNZ5N1vlyDnktYxCT6a9C9P9g_bjQvBt_/s1299/ammann.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1299" data-original-width="1299" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPfrn55suiYE_W1f9tSFLgMRquEnnApqdciQF7y8225fgokDLEmlMjDOVWQQ5stuCNT_p03d-ND0UXb73_cHzhYtZcjU4t71K9lgBM0hQaWuXL-Obc7Uck8ib32qdYCDH8wjuIyzaWjNsvKntDo4uhjw2pNZ5N1vlyDnktYxCT6a9C9P9g_bjQvBt_/w400-h400/ammann.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>The pattern PDF is 9 pages long and contains:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>row-by-row pattern instructions </li><li>charts of a pattern repeat</li><li>photo tutorials for the following brioche stitches</li><ul><li>brk2inc</li><li>brk2Rdec</li></ul></ul><div>So to knit this cowl you should have a basic knowledge of knitting two-colour brioche.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKj1fWkYaOMQ-qJcyO7wos4Z4IExUQZXcLQPD3_89It2KI3IttQdO8I0P86SHh2z-q-lfoOXUs9tcAN11tjPFs39eXuF1TJX0icgsXSIkL49rP3QbVfoPmRB6XrbbL-ZGCxPgHLVB6HK6enz-sMrmc3upBAapl4C2Q7SUmuDLYRRSJ_ADbxYdyNOr/s2696/achteck.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2692" data-original-width="2696" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKKj1fWkYaOMQ-qJcyO7wos4Z4IExUQZXcLQPD3_89It2KI3IttQdO8I0P86SHh2z-q-lfoOXUs9tcAN11tjPFs39eXuF1TJX0icgsXSIkL49rP3QbVfoPmRB6XrbbL-ZGCxPgHLVB6HK6enz-sMrmc3upBAapl4C2Q7SUmuDLYRRSJ_ADbxYdyNOr/w400-h400/achteck.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>The finished piece measures about 20 cm in height and 125 cm in circumference (blocked) – so that it fits twice around my neck. </div><div>To knit this the following materials are needed:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of 125 grams of fingering weight yarn – about equal amounts of each colour, I used</li><ul><li>as DY (dark turquois to black): Schoppel Zauberball 2038 Cafe Flair</li><li>as LY (light beige): Vendita Sock yarn </li></ul><li>3.5 mm circular knitting needles </li><li>6 stitch markers</li><li>a tapestry needle for weaving in ends<br /></li></ul></div><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-6842585776577631092022-09-30T09:36:00.009+02:002022-09-30T11:06:09.339+02:00Wendepunkt-Mütze<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvteGl3rAJZBzSa396RX2VnSMg4S_OIECdwr4LYex4-T3WOM6dG-EVcKmtA3EVMhcgJC_9tBbJ5zEWrtJ6XhJ-ajgwDi_el-GcRqmWlyGcRuXWDv9ywJ8y_LKn7KMrmbJqRbadVKAaRsRR4mYbbp2nDQh7Upz2aAjkkQRaOPQmbp2xIBfJhpaJz-Ff/s760/pink.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="760" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvteGl3rAJZBzSa396RX2VnSMg4S_OIECdwr4LYex4-T3WOM6dG-EVcKmtA3EVMhcgJC_9tBbJ5zEWrtJ6XhJ-ajgwDi_el-GcRqmWlyGcRuXWDv9ywJ8y_LKn7KMrmbJqRbadVKAaRsRR4mYbbp2nDQh7Upz2aAjkkQRaOPQmbp2xIBfJhpaJz-Ff/s320/pink.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Die Anleitung für <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/11/u-turn-hat.html">U-Turn-Mütze</a> gibt es schon seit fünf Jahren auf diesem Blog. Da sie sehr glatt am Kopf anliegt, eignet sie sich gut als Chemo-Cap. </div><div><br /></div><div>Angela Mühlpfordt (von <a href="http://bestrickendes.de">bestrickendes.de</a>) hatte die Idee, zusammen mit KnitPro ein Set zu entwickeln, das u.a. passendes Garn und hochwertige Nadeln enthält, um diese Mütze zu stricken. Für jedes Set werden 5 EUR an Brustkrebs Deutschland e.V. gespendet. Näheres zu ihrem Projekt findet sich <a href="https://bestrickendes.de/2022/09/ein-herzensprojekt-das-pink-set/" target="_blank">hier auf ihrem Blog</a>. Dieses Breast Cancer Awareness Set (<b><span style="color: #ff00fe;">Special Pink Set</span></b>) kann man ab dem 01.10.2022 <a href="https://www.knittybitty.de/virtuemart/2145/194/deutsch/neu-im-shop/special-pink-set-brustkrebshilfe-detail">hier bei Knitty-Bitty bestellen</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>Und hier ist die Strickanleitung für diese Mütze, die wir auf Deutsch "Wendepunkt-Mütze" genannt haben. </div><div><br /></div><div>Diese Mütze wird in offener Arbeit hin und her gestrickt und kommt vollständig ohne verkürzte Reihen aus. Man startet mit einem sogenannten “magischen Maschenanschlag” von einer Seite des Kopfes, strickt Zunahmen bis zur Mitte, nimmt anschließend Maschen ab und beendet mit einem “Abketten mit drei Nadeln”. </div><p>Eine früher veröffentlichte englischer Version dieser Anleitung <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/11/u-turn-hat.html">findet sich hier</a>. In dieser wird auch das allgemeine Prinzip erklärt, mit dem man diese Mütze in anderen Grössen oder mit anderen Garnen stricken kann.</p><p>Here's the original <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/11/u-turn-hat.html"><b>english version</b> of this knitting pattern</a>.</p>
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<p><br /></p><p><b>Material</b></p><p></p><ul><li>ca. 50 gr Sockenwolle (4-fädiges Garn ) </li><li>2.75 mm Rundstricknadel </li><li>2 Maschenmarkierer</li><li>eine dritte Stricknadel (auch ca. 2.75 mm) um am Ende abketten zu können</li></ul><p></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Maschenprobe und Größe</b></p><p>In Krausrechts: 11 Rippen (22 Reihen) = 5 cm Höhe, 12 Maschen = 5 cm Breite</p><p>Die fertige Mütze hat etwa die Grösse S-M, d.h. sie hat einen Umfang von ca. 50 cm (am Bündchen) und ist flach ausgelegt 23 cm hoch. Das Bündchen ist aber sehr elastisch und kann bequem bis zu 56 cm gestreckt werden. </p><p>Ja, hier braucht man leider eine Maschenprobe - und es ist auch ratsam den Kopf des vorgesehenen Trägers zu messen.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyW5IzEtde_yPOuPOIE7xg_-Oh0MnTeuhBDmOtsusrs3NXQhzEFjz_ghskpRctDALywT8ThCLemeE7icj-KhHzZOzwCmEfbVBVjFJRTQ-sUn5rvmy6npktvEB9FI1ke_gO0zGeQhvTuKT09r_6fiv-m1G7vOKzRakqy2YSG1oESypiqGJ2qwxoCCop/s1500/Tragefoto-klein.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1223" data-original-width="1500" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyW5IzEtde_yPOuPOIE7xg_-Oh0MnTeuhBDmOtsusrs3NXQhzEFjz_ghskpRctDALywT8ThCLemeE7icj-KhHzZOzwCmEfbVBVjFJRTQ-sUn5rvmy6npktvEB9FI1ke_gO0zGeQhvTuKT09r_6fiv-m1G7vOKzRakqy2YSG1oESypiqGJ2qwxoCCop/s320/Tragefoto-klein.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p style="text-align: left;"></p><div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Techniken und Notation</b></div><div>Neben rechten und linken Maschen braucht man für diese Anleitung noch die folgenden Techniken.</div><div>Die hier verwendeten Zu- und Abnahmen sind </div><div><ul><li><b>kfb: </b>aus einer Masche eine weitere herausstricken (einmal durch das vordere, dann durch das hintere Maschenglied) – dies entspricht der englischen Abkürzung “knit-front-back”), s.auch hier: <a href="https://youtu.be/q_KeANunPA8">https://youtu.be/q_KeANunPA8</a> </li><li><b>ssk: </b> zwei Maschen links geneigt zusammenstricken, dazu die erste Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, die zweite Masche wie zum rechtsstricken abheben, dann mit der linken Nadel durch beide Maschen hindurch stechen, und beide zusammen abstricken, (entspricht dem “slip-slip-knit” in englischen Anleitungen), s. auch hier: <a href="https://youtu.be/LbzyZzMf5Jc">https://youtu.be/LbzyZzMf5Jc</a> </li><li><b>Judys Magischer Maschenanschlag:</b> eine Anschlag-Technik, bei der man Maschen an zwei Seiten erstellt, siehe die erste Technik in diesem YouTube-video von Sylvie Rasch – CraSy creative things: <a href="https://youtu.be/EdFcr31yqQI">https://youtu.be/EdFcr31yqQI</a> </li><li><b>Abketten mit drei Nadeln:</b> <a href="https://youtu.be/30GQlCrqUGQ">https://youtu.be/30GQlCrqUGQ</a> (YouTube-Video von Stricken wir!)</li><li><b>Einen flachen Kreis aus der Mitte stricken</b> in glattrechts: Man startet mit 8 Maschen, und nimmt in jeder zweiten Reihe jeweils – gleichmäßig verteilt – weitere 8 Maschen zu. Diese Technik wird hier auf einen Halbkreis angewendet, d.h. in jeder zweiten Reihen (also hier in jeder Hinreihe) werden 4 Maschen zugenommen. Um “Eckenbildung” zu vermeiden, strickt man die Zunahmen jeweils an unterschiedlichen Stellen. So wird es ein wirklich runder Halbkreis.</li><li>Auch wenn diese Mütze flach gestrickt wird (hin und her), ist es sinnvoll dies in der <b>Magic Loop Methode</b> auf der Rundstricknadel zu arbeiten. Hier ein Video, das diese Technik erläutern: <a href="https://youtu.be/mB7kCsUsGD0">https://youtu.be/mB7kCsUsGD0</a> (YouTube-Video von Maschenfein Berlin)</li><li><b>[X]*Y: </b>bedeutet, dass die Folge X in den eckigen Klammern Y-mal gearbeitet werden soll, also z.B. [2 Mre. kfb]*3 bedeutet, dass die Folge “zwei rechte Maschen und ein kfb” insgesamt 3-mal gestrickt werden soll.</li><li>Weitere Abkürzungen</li><ul><li>HR: Hinreihe</li><li>RR: Rückreihe</li><li>Mre: rechte Masche(n)</li><li>Mli: linke Masche(n)</li><li>MM: Maschenmarkierer</li><li>2 M re. zus., 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken</li></ul></ul><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Konstruktion</b></div><div>Diese Mütze wird in offener Arbeit gestrickt, in einer umgekehrten U-Form um den magischen Maschenanschlag herum. Jede Reihe besteht aus einem kraus-rechts gestrickten Teil (Rippen am Anfang und Ende jeder Reihe) und einem halbkreisförmigen glatt-rechts gestrickten Teil um den Wendepunkt herum. Die unterschiedliche Schräge wird durch eine Anpassung der Zu- bzw. Abnahmen erlangt. An den Seiten gibt es relativ viele Zu- und Abnahmen, zur Mitte hin weniger bis keine - siehe das Diagramm unten.</div><div>Zuerst sind es vier Zunahmen in jeder Hinreihe, was einem flachen Halbkreis entspricht, dann nur noch drei Zunahmen pro Hinreihe, dann nur noch zwei und schließlich gar keine Zunahme mehr. Nachdem man die Mitte der Mütze erreicht hat, wird das gleiche rückwärts gemacht, also zuerst keine Abnahme, dann zwei pro Hinreihe, dann drei und schließlich vier. Der letzte Schritt ist das Abketten mit drei Nadeln.</div></div></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Anleitung</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbxnNuEhX3msQ50NlkY-N1o1uQMd-d160iCc-uv9VmvOqmjho8vLKg5qpfH6PC-mSt0CgurtcCqx5F6JkkNxT_DGK2DdueNnI4Wwojs0xEqvlaGqP9KWj-XK_hwyx5lATQeHHYlC0WXQlcbZu9QZwNOMM5o52KBq5iMnm4RmqK9D2B2PaMJt2w4Xh/s1000/stepA.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbxnNuEhX3msQ50NlkY-N1o1uQMd-d160iCc-uv9VmvOqmjho8vLKg5qpfH6PC-mSt0CgurtcCqx5F6JkkNxT_DGK2DdueNnI4Wwojs0xEqvlaGqP9KWj-XK_hwyx5lATQeHHYlC0WXQlcbZu9QZwNOMM5o52KBq5iMnm4RmqK9D2B2PaMJt2w4Xh/w262-h262/stepA.jpg" width="262" /></a></div>Magischer Maschenanschlag: 2x15 Maschen, d.h. auf jeder Nadel sind 15 Maschen.</div><div>Das Strickstück sieht nun aus wie auf Bild A.</div><div><br /></div><div>Nun die Nadeln so drehen, dass die Krausrippe vorne sichtbar ist. Alle Reihen werden nun in einer U-Form gestrickt, d.h. erst werden die Maschen auf der oberen Nadel abgestrickt, dann wird das Strickstück gedreht (so dass oben und unten vertauscht werden) und anschließend die Maschen der zweiten Nadel abgestrickt.</div><div>Der Punkt, an dem die Drehung stattfindet, wird Wendepunkt (“<b>WP</b>”) genannt. </div><div> </div><div><div>Zuerst werden vier Zunahmen pro Hinreihe gestrickt.</div><div>Reihe 1 (RR): 18 Mre, Maschenmarkierer platzieren, 2 Mli, WP, 2Mi, Maschenmarkierer platzieren, 18 Mre - die Maschenmarkierer trennen den kraus-rechts Teil (Bündchen) vom glatt-rechts Teil (oberer Teil der Mütze)</div><div>Reihe 2 (HR): 1 M abh, 17 Mre, MM, [kfb]*4, MM, 18 Mre - das Strickstück sieht jetzt aus wie in Illustration 1, die U-Form ist noch nicht ganz sichtbar</div><div>Reihe 3 und alle weiteren ungeraden Reihen: 1 M abh, Mre bis MM, MM, Mli bis zum nächsten MM, MM, Mre bis Ende</div><div>Reihe 4 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, kfb]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 6 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [kfb, 2 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 8 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [k2, kfb, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 10 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, kfb, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 12 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, kfb, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 14 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [kfb, 6 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 16 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, kfb, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZqfwVU_QmIa2fdflVLLi54IjW4UH-Nng3WIUufPXeFgpc9oMjA00Tg5dH4UTG0wQUoEHL3sT-AU4e6b6Q1lgyevJ-96pMIlVxZRakpCkXjonbsyG2euSTkM7BNmx88RiOc3ZhK1J7-Wcp2p9PWmd_lSguJ9k1Ym00LucnzydsEGSRtpdwAAkhdov/s1000/stepB.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaZqfwVU_QmIa2fdflVLLi54IjW4UH-Nng3WIUufPXeFgpc9oMjA00Tg5dH4UTG0wQUoEHL3sT-AU4e6b6Q1lgyevJ-96pMIlVxZRakpCkXjonbsyG2euSTkM7BNmx88RiOc3ZhK1J7-Wcp2p9PWmd_lSguJ9k1Ym00LucnzydsEGSRtpdwAAkhdov/w269-h269/stepB.jpg" width="269" /></a></div><br />Das Strickstück sieht nun in etwa so aus wie auf Bild B.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>Ab jetzt werden jeweils 3 Zunahmen pro Hinreihe gestrickt. </div><div>Reihe 18 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [6 Mre, kfb, 5 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 20 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, kfb, 10 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 22 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, kfb, 3 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 24 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, kfb, 13 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 26 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [11 Mre, kfb, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 28 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [5 Mre, kfb, 11 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 30 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, kfb, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 32 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [Mre 2, kfb, 16 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div></div><div><br />Das Strickstück sieht nun in etwa so aus wie auf Bild C.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnmEHYeIjGh6I_yhjL0qA_LDogyiYHG48FehAv9cq8a6ptF3LsrcK9GtVlYGkQpnzah0ADqiaxilDM2eyGzocQydh54JMAioEXyPB98SRkUAo8xbOzadhoY8HwMv6Ypick2awwLHgh1rcsDDCK08Dhd_pkFnxoiD3gaz6ou7ChhJ0QAVxBR452cbF/s1000/stepC.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnmEHYeIjGh6I_yhjL0qA_LDogyiYHG48FehAv9cq8a6ptF3LsrcK9GtVlYGkQpnzah0ADqiaxilDM2eyGzocQydh54JMAioEXyPB98SRkUAo8xbOzadhoY8HwMv6Ypick2awwLHgh1rcsDDCK08Dhd_pkFnxoiD3gaz6ou7ChhJ0QAVxBR452cbF/w267-h267/stepC.jpg" width="267" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>Je nachdem wie lange die verwendete Rundstricknadel ist, nun von der Magic Loop Methode zum normalen Stricken wechseln, d.h. ohne dass ein Teil des Seiles heraussteht. Um das Zählen zu erleichtern, ist es ratsam, an die Stelle des WPs einen weiteren Maschenmarkierer einzufügen. </div><div><br /></div><div><div>Ab jetzt werden pro Hinreihe 2 Zunahmen gestrickt. </div><div>Reihe 34 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [20 Mre, kfb, 9 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 36 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, kfb, 28 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 38 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, kfb, 21 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 40 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [25 Mre, kfb, 7 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 42 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, kfb, 20 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2a0lQvpIE4FEgJ0vAU8oA0fgkJQnLUgCPh1iXQiqfTak9CZIiaPVA7D4w9vmyqiVQOUk7l1T7rC7Jp46fFsbT9T6cQKrjV7i4uYk7wq9J-NbgRGE1nWTTKVHGD7smRugGqI5uOQorE3a9dS77G4z6gV4PdmqNT1zQXtonO0JbIl0gihgQqQ0T2p3/s1000/stepD.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif2a0lQvpIE4FEgJ0vAU8oA0fgkJQnLUgCPh1iXQiqfTak9CZIiaPVA7D4w9vmyqiVQOUk7l1T7rC7Jp46fFsbT9T6cQKrjV7i4uYk7wq9J-NbgRGE1nWTTKVHGD7smRugGqI5uOQorE3a9dS77G4z6gV4PdmqNT1zQXtonO0JbIl0gihgQqQ0T2p3/w275-h275/stepD.jpg" width="275" /></a></div><br />Das Strickstück sieht nun so aus wie auf Bild D.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>Ab jetzt wird in jeder Hinreihe jetzt nur noch eine Masche zugenommen. </div><div>Reihe 44 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 27 Mre, kfb, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 45 (RR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, Mli bis MM (d.h. 71 Mli), 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 46 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 53 Mre, kfb, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 48 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 32 Mre, kfb, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 50 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 39 Mre, kfb,Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Nun folgen die Reihen ohne Zu- oder Abnahmen.</div><div><div>Reihe 52 (HR): 1 M abh., Mre bis zum Ende</div><div>Das Bündchen (Krausrippen am unteren Rand) sollte jetzt (leicht gestreckt) so lange sein wie die Hälfte des Kopfumfanges.</div><div>Reihe 54 (HR): 1 M abh., Mre bis zum Ende</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Jeweils eine Abnahme pro Hinreihe.</div><div>Reihe 56 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 38 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 58 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 31 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 60 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 52 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 62 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 26 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>In diesem Teil werden 2 Abnahmen pro Hinreihe gestrickt.</div><div>Reihe 64 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, ssk, 20 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 66 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [25 Mre, ssk, 7 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 68 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, ssk, 21 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 70 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 29 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 72 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [20 Mre, ssk, 9 Mre]*2, 18 Mre</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Pro Hinreihe werden nun drei Maschen abgenommen. </div><div>Reihe 74 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 16 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 76 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, ssk, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 78 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [5 Mre, ssk, 11 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 80 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [11 Mre, ssk, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 82 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, ssk, 13 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 84 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, ssk, 3 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 86 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 10 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 88 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [6 Mre, ssk, 5 Mre]*3, 18 Mre</div></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Und schliesslich vier Abnahmen pro Hinreihe.</div><div>Reihe 90 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, ssk, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 92 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [6 Mre, ssk]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 94 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, ssk, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 96 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, ssk, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 98 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 100 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [ssk, 2 Mre]*4, 18 Mre</div><div>Reihe 102 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, ssk]*3, k1, 2 M re. zus., 18 Mre - </div><div>(Die letzte Abnahme wurde als rechtsgeneigt zusammengestrickt, weil dies einen schöneren Übergang zum Kraus-Rechts-Bündchen bildet.</div><div>Reihe 104 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [ssk]*3, 2 M re. zus., 18 Mre</div></div><div>Reihe 105 (RR) = Reihe 3</div><div><br /></div><div>Das Strickstück sieht nun in etwa aus wie auf Bild E.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU97OnrkdSM8J1pNP-bxl2iToO8ed9YB0cxLRJ5iCjZ5QdTVm21TP2v0XjiXvh1DdqfVhAWepF9wFCcdbpB9JY56Cg08l_vVpvEpePyw27ciJVwSxnhDjtXtjuaaFamgH0Mb_RhsC2oMaz2VqCEKeN3gby3K-ZmVxFz1e2I_1y0zjPFtON6ieSr9es/s1191/stepE.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1191" data-original-width="1000" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU97OnrkdSM8J1pNP-bxl2iToO8ed9YB0cxLRJ5iCjZ5QdTVm21TP2v0XjiXvh1DdqfVhAWepF9wFCcdbpB9JY56Cg08l_vVpvEpePyw27ciJVwSxnhDjtXtjuaaFamgH0Mb_RhsC2oMaz2VqCEKeN3gby3K-ZmVxFz1e2I_1y0zjPFtON6ieSr9es/w242-h287/stepE.jpg" width="242" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nach Beendigung der letzten Reihe sollte wieder dieselbe Anzahl Maschen vorhanden sein, wie ganz am Anfang nach dem Maschenanschlag (d.h. 2 x 20 Maschen).</div><div>Die Mütze nun auf links drehen, die beiden Seiten zusammenhalten und mit dem Abketten mit drei Nadeln zusammenstricken.</div><div><br /></div><div>Nach dem Vernähen der Enden ist die Mütze fertig und zurück auf rechts gedreht werden.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGemrhUuo1_b0V6UdZLVZ82DvIFLgUU-dqEqD2Ffy1_9Q1ig3UTGTW5nUdwy82TVANkjG5UxuA2uCHcN4XKCQJ4yZQ6d4AdFu4q6N2PCyMeN2sdNMqA6UzL5fYZvXhTgWmmfEW0Pe2zHC2ZnQ_jfVtdo7eRyi1wEcjr2ejhWgYmnf2rTYur9gI4LXG/s1000/stepF.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="1000" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGemrhUuo1_b0V6UdZLVZ82DvIFLgUU-dqEqD2Ffy1_9Q1ig3UTGTW5nUdwy82TVANkjG5UxuA2uCHcN4XKCQJ4yZQ6d4AdFu4q6N2PCyMeN2sdNMqA6UzL5fYZvXhTgWmmfEW0Pe2zHC2ZnQ_jfVtdo7eRyi1wEcjr2ejhWgYmnf2rTYur9gI4LXG/w250-h233/stepF.jpg" width="250" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-23696727816641231452022-09-02T18:20:00.011+02:002022-09-18T10:30:37.224+02:00Garter Stitch Snowflake<p>I've always wanted to do a big lacy half-circle shawl all in garter stitch. This doily started out as a test piece for that kind of shawl. However, I liked the small piece quite a lot, so I tried to figure out how to do it in a seamless full circle – and here it is. </p><p>This doily consists of diamonds that stack up to be triangles which in turn form a (slightly angular) circle. It starts with a provisional cast on and is finished by grafting in garter stitch (just before knitting and binding off the last stitches). It is <b>NOT A BEGINNER PATTERN</b>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBztQb6NayrK4QP3naHeO-JJsYCyEL-y67w25M6uNchfgQ_tmffl7NerZ-yyqEMocYR6oGLQEAlwd7zFf4G3eT_QSzT_-nZ3lT4HJeIBho5HPCdNFcE3mTso_6L642iFN7inZyAz8VLax5Yq0yJqfs4dbmGZa7gEr_WKEmAY6x-gQn44qsD7Lwi4qc/s1370/titel3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1370" data-original-width="1000" height="531" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBztQb6NayrK4QP3naHeO-JJsYCyEL-y67w25M6uNchfgQ_tmffl7NerZ-yyqEMocYR6oGLQEAlwd7zFf4G3eT_QSzT_-nZ3lT4HJeIBho5HPCdNFcE3mTso_6L642iFN7inZyAz8VLax5Yq0yJqfs4dbmGZa7gEr_WKEmAY6x-gQn44qsD7Lwi4qc/w388-h531/titel3.jpg" width="388" /></a></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/badges/redirect?p=garter-stitch-snowflake"><img src="https://api.ravelry.com/badges/projects?p=garter-stitch-snowflake&t=.svg" style="border: none;" /></a>
</div><br /><p>The knitting pattern is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/garter-stitch-snowflake" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/garter-stitch-snowflake-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/K9sxv" target="_blank">Payhip</a> </li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA55I061M2pXZBRYc9EiUb5mrHymMp2_oMg_LoYxH2M_wUFKaZU59SaEJFH-I6MeJz_Dnr_fDs4ixRNNgc2IBZ_MS60GF9AbDD_D7kVsLZYB4aB0nV3AggZUjdTSEcRZP9ue7Dl9V_km8bcmxsMyIP0Z6gqPa21UBhkqbkTTVL6f7QeMJXTkvrfE_B/s2226/quadrat-mit-smarties3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2222" data-original-width="2226" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA55I061M2pXZBRYc9EiUb5mrHymMp2_oMg_LoYxH2M_wUFKaZU59SaEJFH-I6MeJz_Dnr_fDs4ixRNNgc2IBZ_MS60GF9AbDD_D7kVsLZYB4aB0nV3AggZUjdTSEcRZP9ue7Dl9V_km8bcmxsMyIP0Z6gqPa21UBhkqbkTTVL6f7QeMJXTkvrfE_B/s320/quadrat-mit-smarties3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>The pattern PDF is 12 pages long and contains</div><div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece – including 6 photos</li><li>schematic of the construction, i.e. how the diamonds stack up to create the whole piece</li><li>chart(s) of one diamond</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>provisional CO with a crochet hook and undoing it</li><li>grafting in garter stitch</li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps </li><li>crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)</li><li>backwards loop CO</li></ul></ul></div><div><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDMWKREo7Gp-d0dPJW8UKwtpjBz2LRIAohet2rGAZGwwQ5y0itoKF7bi8f9iSGiygoPZGsneUgGWcEqQlLtNh2ZWwR8qOTyh0R6qXEQ31rvKQj8ksnTSsBj37qNTwp8LpiK3TOzXtC_E2dmsiySsyQWKxaM3kePqZPfQsFCYbb-32S6IUJb2I4Qnto/s4624/20220829_184556-01.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDMWKREo7Gp-d0dPJW8UKwtpjBz2LRIAohet2rGAZGwwQ5y0itoKF7bi8f9iSGiygoPZGsneUgGWcEqQlLtNh2ZWwR8qOTyh0R6qXEQ31rvKQj8ksnTSsBj37qNTwp8LpiK3TOzXtC_E2dmsiySsyQWKxaM3kePqZPfQsFCYbb-32S6IUJb2I4Qnto/w343-h458/20220829_184556-01.jpeg" width="343" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">To knit this piece you need the following materials</div><div style="text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>about 250 metres of light fingering weight yarn (for the blue piece in the photos I used Creative Melange Lace by Rico Design, colorway 011 - here's <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/rico-design-creative-melange-lace" target="_blank">the yarn's Ravelry page</a>, the red one is made with Wollmeise Lace, colorway Allegria - here's <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/stash/search#colorway-link=allegria&photo=yes&view=thumbs&yarn-link=rohrspatz--wollmeise-lace-garn" target="_blank">the yarn's Ravelry page</a>)</li><li>2.5 mm knitting needles </li><li>a crochet hook of a similar size (I used a 2.5mm hook) </li><li>scrap yarn</li><li>a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends</li></ul></div></div><div>Knitted in light fingering weight yarn the finished piece has a diameter of about 42 cm.</div><div>I did not knit a swatch, but measuring from the finished piece, 13 sts give about 5 cm in width.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5c19-YY1ZzNeH9AfjBLj4RYqWOrRxmOWJtqqiKP8brjZR-k6WPKmzPVqGNxm7_MD-BCH5uANveQiO3rudK2ouSNNcwt6Q8DNuRBnbjv0Ee-e2cfXPw9PFdBRk-eas-STqOQi1cUxa2Fnr8tqQyQyFip-6PkIl8weGwSXZmh8CtruZey1fA8MT1HO/s3469/IMG_20220906_172821_065.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="3469" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM5c19-YY1ZzNeH9AfjBLj4RYqWOrRxmOWJtqqiKP8brjZR-k6WPKmzPVqGNxm7_MD-BCH5uANveQiO3rudK2ouSNNcwt6Q8DNuRBnbjv0Ee-e2cfXPw9PFdBRk-eas-STqOQi1cUxa2Fnr8tqQyQyFip-6PkIl8weGwSXZmh8CtruZey1fA8MT1HO/s320/IMG_20220906_172821_065.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-33582357644657683842022-08-13T10:08:00.000+02:002022-08-13T10:08:06.093+02:00Sewing practice or you can't have too many pincushions ...<p>This summer, I started to sew a few t-shirts for myself (see e.g. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgt0VO3IlNM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link">this Instagram post</a>). I am far from being a confident sewer - not very neat or exact. Even though you might get away with a few inaccuracies in Jersey, I decided I would use some of the leftover fabric to practice sewing exactly. </p><p>The finished piece looks from above a bit like a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paper_fortune_teller" target="_blank">paper fortune-teller</a> (the childrens' game) or to be a bit more technical like an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoshizawa–Randlett_system#Origami_bases">origami Blintz base</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3VP9P6KJlW6phOzkCDf07TVGBqer8tJLYGzkufY2qKfCYK4hzA9w8CQ58AQTgeJ9uKVN1r381PguEmX2sUUv0j2U7OjarrYjnHJbn-l1B3RSEY_02zROtZGBQEKeZHhO3qUt6I-pu5VanihFcorHGigDUBRP5XJ0GZ3LMIQMckCui4_ngo_-_SD0T/s2913/2022-08-11%2015.28.14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2913" data-original-width="2913" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3VP9P6KJlW6phOzkCDf07TVGBqer8tJLYGzkufY2qKfCYK4hzA9w8CQ58AQTgeJ9uKVN1r381PguEmX2sUUv0j2U7OjarrYjnHJbn-l1B3RSEY_02zROtZGBQEKeZHhO3qUt6I-pu5VanihFcorHGigDUBRP5XJ0GZ3LMIQMckCui4_ngo_-_SD0T/w400-h400/2022-08-11%2015.28.14.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>If you want to do something similar yourself, here's how to do it:</p><p>1. Cut out four pieces of <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s0qiAStlkDlkppiKb0h3BZnLyDYTxq6G/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">this pattern</a> from leftover fabric. The outer (dotted) line is the cutting line - it already has a seam allowance of 1 cm.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4k13IAvIsU-fUG4_aOv9LYvQr424HiiA0Bq_ezbQ1heFoKa9wb-Y4cdpMnaYtsAhgHAhy3tcFwqipLFdz9k9Fv9Pj7Lzc3u3cmquwkyEuQvuuhQe6L-ywE0xuKLDnDF1rtrZTlc7b58zH8USnPANKwtsuUW6Xb9HrxRrmQSsxnX_E_1R9265z-11/s1000/bild1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4k13IAvIsU-fUG4_aOv9LYvQr424HiiA0Bq_ezbQ1heFoKa9wb-Y4cdpMnaYtsAhgHAhy3tcFwqipLFdz9k9Fv9Pj7Lzc3u3cmquwkyEuQvuuhQe6L-ywE0xuKLDnDF1rtrZTlc7b58zH8USnPANKwtsuUW6Xb9HrxRrmQSsxnX_E_1R9265z-11/s320/bild1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>2. Mark the sewing line (along the grey line in the pattern). </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2N70CGCWJzeUbSOKuPHYsZJjVIa7kNWkpS1OTBmbG20iT1gQIbqqCPCaDUJkEoo8a0m5hyJ-QcYXZlNaIRyCmgHltGM_5wVPu9uTrzmhy_x6xohY9LpwZv45csrEbPrn3t-jhEQwL3kE2RcAdlYiU_je7tic-xBSit_-aJd4m9sylhzRYHTOEF8c/s1000/bild2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb2N70CGCWJzeUbSOKuPHYsZJjVIa7kNWkpS1OTBmbG20iT1gQIbqqCPCaDUJkEoo8a0m5hyJ-QcYXZlNaIRyCmgHltGM_5wVPu9uTrzmhy_x6xohY9LpwZv45csrEbPrn3t-jhEQwL3kE2RcAdlYiU_je7tic-xBSit_-aJd4m9sylhzRYHTOEF8c/s320/bild2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>3. Decide how to place the pieces. In the picture the parts are numbered for reference in the next steps.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghORRvNiNnXmN_KPA867Batl-RQ8mo3dvE4dBdyln-NuHm0uvZV-RcZalbakJmhBBA7bo9GDTCYr6VlZb9MgcPWofkQngEqDIOGOzKdKr0RHDTZaMWuHMbA14L3bikdmGx_vuRjFmFo5-hda4-D2XMI_ji25oyc9aS6HUzf7gBMuxm4UgnttS7mJkZ/s1000/bild3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghORRvNiNnXmN_KPA867Batl-RQ8mo3dvE4dBdyln-NuHm0uvZV-RcZalbakJmhBBA7bo9GDTCYr6VlZb9MgcPWofkQngEqDIOGOzKdKr0RHDTZaMWuHMbA14L3bikdmGx_vuRjFmFo5-hda4-D2XMI_ji25oyc9aS6HUzf7gBMuxm4UgnttS7mJkZ/s320/bild3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>4. Pin pieces 1 and 2 right sides together and sew along the highlighted (black dotted) line on the right hand side.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNNafvZg_XWC0MQsmC2xnwCdJZrNCqv5R9GxyVkRpsjegCC1YzJ6MGKzFokDcDTH27AdmG2jhMHc-lYK71QEp2oLoKH_x4uU_U6or_VZ__nvuYqWiNNFqec1kyzJeOYcijm4HPoqbRcCcXxZyMRrAtsr23p1kqbytzIMvkYMOCnZTmLpIvk-ypT5DS/s1000/bild4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNNafvZg_XWC0MQsmC2xnwCdJZrNCqv5R9GxyVkRpsjegCC1YzJ6MGKzFokDcDTH27AdmG2jhMHc-lYK71QEp2oLoKH_x4uU_U6or_VZ__nvuYqWiNNFqec1kyzJeOYcijm4HPoqbRcCcXxZyMRrAtsr23p1kqbytzIMvkYMOCnZTmLpIvk-ypT5DS/s320/bild4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>5. Now pin part 3 to part 2 (also right sides together) and again sew along the highlighted (black dotted) line. Make sure to not sew part 1.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxVtcNH4-CrcJVM7EJE3KbTb1MgD9kaMqdgM6Bsv-Qw7LD-Bo0-ZV0RSTlfkmZxH8rWBJ8lS9v6dRGS3ZWGK-d7wFk52Bi3g0ZMe4-ht8EWO4JI4ftC-zwnKpOmY4qjksgnfhYuazDZalmpZTvN1sFE7JZJ4KlacF0mNKZzFceDeI8m6OhHb-YKzL3/s1000/bild5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxVtcNH4-CrcJVM7EJE3KbTb1MgD9kaMqdgM6Bsv-Qw7LD-Bo0-ZV0RSTlfkmZxH8rWBJ8lS9v6dRGS3ZWGK-d7wFk52Bi3g0ZMe4-ht8EWO4JI4ftC-zwnKpOmY4qjksgnfhYuazDZalmpZTvN1sFE7JZJ4KlacF0mNKZzFceDeI8m6OhHb-YKzL3/s320/bild5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>6. Now pin part 4 to part 3 and again sew only the right hand seam. Now all four pieces are sewn together and there is an open seam between parts 4 and 1.<div><br /></div><div>7. Now pin parts 4 and 1 together and sew the sides according to the picture below, i.e. leaving an opening through which you can turn the piece.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtBfYtAsNS36wj-R8f9TPztZlF3w3L9KVN2NhA2zjG14NpmuSVAmY9cIYqJi0w0CJ93fPOuovD3torEFCU68DBzOHToVmgBeXXvWM9OUJ5_O74SPPGOR3QrSXYr0jK1BHYeiPWOws49d-nnjUqAHUXyzfie_Emtih2qVWcURqJqx_K1RGM5whNrV4/s1000/bild6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtBfYtAsNS36wj-R8f9TPztZlF3w3L9KVN2NhA2zjG14NpmuSVAmY9cIYqJi0w0CJ93fPOuovD3torEFCU68DBzOHToVmgBeXXvWM9OUJ5_O74SPPGOR3QrSXYr0jK1BHYeiPWOws49d-nnjUqAHUXyzfie_Emtih2qVWcURqJqx_K1RGM5whNrV4/s320/bild6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>8. Now your piece looks as shown below - with only a small opening (where the arrow is).<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6Y67sJl4Rv_IzKcChmoa6AYixOunSlImP6XZMSJ5yGTwcXFv0PqLsTLkIQSrbayA5Y_UWfHSke70RaVRppMlx__zk1Xh1GWF42jFphDIUE0DgbYSlG0DpTWzMS6cqOEZ4341ZL1qnUee6I_182Nk_93GoEnMxewtpeSDLMTWvMyUHs43fRA_vmTt/s1000/bild7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6Y67sJl4Rv_IzKcChmoa6AYixOunSlImP6XZMSJ5yGTwcXFv0PqLsTLkIQSrbayA5Y_UWfHSke70RaVRppMlx__zk1Xh1GWF42jFphDIUE0DgbYSlG0DpTWzMS6cqOEZ4341ZL1qnUee6I_182Nk_93GoEnMxewtpeSDLMTWvMyUHs43fRA_vmTt/s320/bild7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><p>9. Turn the piece right sides out and fill with stuffing through the opening (I always use the cuttings from my overlock machine for stuffing). Make sure that the stuffing gets into the corners, too.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTBgAxlVfEqJOcNPuziQva1opyfucq_szSnGGhu4Cyvinl_19esxp3sc7KNfQCAZQGIsleuERdHMgAFpjOiOxdZ81cBlFvGvBskXbId-z9Alpcg_KIacpQu8n-yq8g7p1H8pfgSGBvPKLJ-j8gXcWc0LLwsD12oLnxngLpqnTefH7scD1v1B6L8QX/s1000/bild8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTBgAxlVfEqJOcNPuziQva1opyfucq_szSnGGhu4Cyvinl_19esxp3sc7KNfQCAZQGIsleuERdHMgAFpjOiOxdZ81cBlFvGvBskXbId-z9Alpcg_KIacpQu8n-yq8g7p1H8pfgSGBvPKLJ-j8gXcWc0LLwsD12oLnxngLpqnTefH7scD1v1B6L8QX/s320/bild8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>10. Close the opening by hand sewing. And the pincushion is finished.</p><p>Unfortunately, my piece is not as neat as I would have liked - the bit in the middle (where all parts meet) . The reverse side is even worse :) I guess I need some more practice - i.e. I need to think of another scrappy project that requires a certain precision :)<br /></p></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-63243533785431459882022-07-06T14:37:00.002+02:002022-07-11T10:52:56.636+02:00Shiki-Miki<p>I like tops with interesting constructions (see for example the <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/07/garter-stitch-bias-top.html">Garter Stitch Bias Top</a>). So when Angela from <a href="https://bestrickendes.de">bestrickendes.de</a> showed and offered me her Shiki-Miki pattern - in the summer of last year, I was really excited. It seemed a really good idea to use a lovely Lace weight yarn, I had seen at shop in town. It turns out, I was right and I am really happy with the result - however it took me some time to get there.</p><p>The pattern is available via Ravelry here: <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shiki-miki-shirt">https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/shiki-miki-shirt</a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxHYQrG1dLR7HlAHCNOv401ualkZNnRx7FGXxC4NpGaA0OsuZbEXu3xzMqKTIQyBBrhKpSywJdxbFsgOFf5WfD8g5tB09HBSr9wS5B26Zj9xsT6IW_48PbaaYscG4RcbceUVKbTeCufHcG2FWRk9UHPNA0G45Pi3IUslcWYogni3hoQbDPFDJQwHi/s1736/Titel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1736" data-original-width="1736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpxHYQrG1dLR7HlAHCNOv401ualkZNnRx7FGXxC4NpGaA0OsuZbEXu3xzMqKTIQyBBrhKpSywJdxbFsgOFf5WfD8g5tB09HBSr9wS5B26Zj9xsT6IW_48PbaaYscG4RcbceUVKbTeCufHcG2FWRk9UHPNA0G45Pi3IUslcWYogni3hoQbDPFDJQwHi/w400-h400/Titel.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><div><br /></div>Once I had ordered and received the yarn (Creative Melange Lace by Rico Design, colorway 011 - here's the yarn's <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/rico-design-creative-melange-lace" target="_blank">Ravelry page</a>), the actual knitting wasn't the problem. I started in July and I had finished everything except the lower edges by August 2021. I don't know, why I didn't continue it, but this June I started again and finished knitting the final bits. <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbWHlAm6ugtrDaomsn6-vwKYBRSy46AjKnUTRnD1Qws-1Hst-OU3EhGjNt7ktjyRuZgcvTfAdts_iqlGjOvCQ8QdpAKH8n8zAmgPl2xIKIfbJA9Qkpaj3VpIXY6ESCTk7LKaXDKtoTz41FSs80Ve2gJZrFW7GZrfu9uxEcQOjgTJn62NmNR28IqXv/s1080/upload.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqbWHlAm6ugtrDaomsn6-vwKYBRSy46AjKnUTRnD1Qws-1Hst-OU3EhGjNt7ktjyRuZgcvTfAdts_iqlGjOvCQ8QdpAKH8n8zAmgPl2xIKIfbJA9Qkpaj3VpIXY6ESCTk7LKaXDKtoTz41FSs80Ve2gJZrFW7GZrfu9uxEcQOjgTJn62NmNR28IqXv/s320/upload.jpg" width="320" /></a>Because I don't like sewing up seams, I try to avoid creating seams at the knitting stage. Here, e.g. I knitted the shoulder bits at once for the front and back - see picture on the right. I had originally planned to do the same at the sides, but decided against it, because I think a knitted piece doesn't warp as much if it has side seams. </p><p>So after finishing I only had to seam the sides and to weave in all ends. Unsurprisingly, this task took me quite a few weeks, but I have finally done it. </p><p>I really (really, really) like the summery colors and the light lacy texture - and I am looking forward to wearing it on a hot day.</p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-70464491197599760602022-06-05T21:41:00.017+02:002022-06-10T15:27:35.065+02:00June 2022 - Discount<p>During the month off June 2022 all my knitting patterns on <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/knitting-and-so-on-ravelry-store">Ravelry</a> and <a href="https://payhip.com/Knittingandsoon/collection/all">Payhip</a> are 20% off with coupon code "JUNE".</p><p>For example the ones shown below:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_j-DTu_gCepKE6Z-4Si_w4IZwl83RHdciJE1VItAp1qpr88FazcBFQXpUl5Tqx1pVh97iC_PGuPOJ5_oQNW5pXDIjBrRL24Z2MNbTupmJG86PtklQXIgd58jomL5IHCButWOiVp9TRCyEX6sv32UlaJprY4HVaYO4ds7DhHfUPoYXiO3M0Vb363un/s2000/june2022-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_j-DTu_gCepKE6Z-4Si_w4IZwl83RHdciJE1VItAp1qpr88FazcBFQXpUl5Tqx1pVh97iC_PGuPOJ5_oQNW5pXDIjBrRL24Z2MNbTupmJG86PtklQXIgd58jomL5IHCButWOiVp9TRCyEX6sv32UlaJprY4HVaYO4ds7DhHfUPoYXiO3M0Vb363un/w400-h400/june2022-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/05/rainbow-mitts.html">Rainbow Mitts</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2018/07/negative-spaces-scarf.html">Negative Spaces Scarf</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/02/herzchen.html">Herzchen</a></li><li>Bottom Right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/08/jasmin.html">Jasmin Potholders</a></li></ul><div><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jgVaP2OkZWw8crF1g1f59ixHBlc3SMbKXRQtGV7ao1xFj7hjQPTP47JHOyfKyFGfNWINkacJDZ9sAMYfSto-0tm_g-pR0_7NagfqWWlPadGZ7rzAAg8vxoUXaG7pygtu76JlKXEt2sfOvadp2vy32pMIzpP50uVoUuS4NGt_cs0VWkS6IQFXpIH4/s2000/june2022-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jgVaP2OkZWw8crF1g1f59ixHBlc3SMbKXRQtGV7ao1xFj7hjQPTP47JHOyfKyFGfNWINkacJDZ9sAMYfSto-0tm_g-pR0_7NagfqWWlPadGZ7rzAAg8vxoUXaG7pygtu76JlKXEt2sfOvadp2vy32pMIzpP50uVoUuS4NGt_cs0VWkS6IQFXpIH4/w400-h400/june2022-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2017/04/mermaids-garden-scarf.html">Mermaid's Garden Scarf</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="http://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2017/09/skew-symmtery-cowl.html">Skew Symmtery Cowl</a></li><li>Botton left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/06/daisy-potholder.html">Daisy Potholders</a></li><li>Botten right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2022/03/ripple-fingerless-gloves.html">Ripple Fingerless Gloves</a></li></ul><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5Ggl0GIwjTW-1CRDrOM2QRN_drzUMxiXree2IkXj3b-TncnRMtkxSzbc03kIkbl8yGLDARi5Hux78aj0zRDPLJMsovlKnBSXwD9QjvwJp2xsBN6xhVISRUK22V7nz9Ap8gpeDh-4dp4_0hmtvrrQz3W0bLJ4aBlae9rroxOW8L6yPxYImaMhHGbI/s2000/june2022-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq5Ggl0GIwjTW-1CRDrOM2QRN_drzUMxiXree2IkXj3b-TncnRMtkxSzbc03kIkbl8yGLDARi5Hux78aj0zRDPLJMsovlKnBSXwD9QjvwJp2xsBN6xhVISRUK22V7nz9Ap8gpeDh-4dp4_0hmtvrrQz3W0bLJ4aBlae9rroxOW8L6yPxYImaMhHGbI/w400-h400/june2022-3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="http://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2018/02/bubblewrap-cowl.html">Bubblewrap Cowl</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/07/seven-petals-potholder.html">Seven Petals Potholder</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2017/08/esprit-de-lescalier.html">L'esprit de l'escalier scarf</a></li><li>Bottom right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/11/blumchen-fingerless-gloves.html">Blümchen Fingerless Gloves</a></li></ul><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5j7-4mJ7VLKLMhfv0lXAs-dUUasA_Qp9N8PlMRzZ4Tpx5H0aVmBg8NsIP0m0sPL5Sj3QsLRZnHVDzXQvi4QK5rYj2s9m8edewGShb71bBmxdwmAZpF2rWprvk8M8_1rLVlXZilGu1Gf4zM5aTblnK5BQTvOGfjAXstQxX9AQ2ETRsFfUy2b7PwbBT/s2000/juni2022-4-brioche.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5j7-4mJ7VLKLMhfv0lXAs-dUUasA_Qp9N8PlMRzZ4Tpx5H0aVmBg8NsIP0m0sPL5Sj3QsLRZnHVDzXQvi4QK5rYj2s9m8edewGShb71bBmxdwmAZpF2rWprvk8M8_1rLVlXZilGu1Gf4zM5aTblnK5BQTvOGfjAXstQxX9AQ2ETRsFfUy2b7PwbBT/w400-h400/juni2022-4-brioche.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/03/barentatzen-scarf.html">Bärentatzen Scarf</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/10/crossbeams-cowl.html">Crossbeams Cowl</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/01/luftblaschen-brioche-and-lace-scarf.html">Luftbläschen Brioche and Lace Scarf</a></li><li>Bottom right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/10/diamond-lattice-cowl.html">Diamond Lattice Cowl</a></li></ul><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9er2NdzWgBjBcfy-TXR-mqIj385uIEAWW45R6LCWPjJwDPp32uLlrXm1FesrRFFrRGav5COLI5PDulKWLZog7CbAtMUzAozwwvF0Tz-0IPvQR8vBJNmB8IgXpof3ANi0QEzXErIFgGZpcVdWxe_BjZwC7IOlFULa71DuGgZXs9P12FumOuqN37Hc/s2000/june2022-5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9er2NdzWgBjBcfy-TXR-mqIj385uIEAWW45R6LCWPjJwDPp32uLlrXm1FesrRFFrRGav5COLI5PDulKWLZog7CbAtMUzAozwwvF0Tz-0IPvQR8vBJNmB8IgXpof3ANi0QEzXErIFgGZpcVdWxe_BjZwC7IOlFULa71DuGgZXs9P12FumOuqN37Hc/w400-h400/june2022-5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2022/05/traverse-brioche-scarf.html">Traverse Brioche Scarf</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/07/windrose.html">Windrose</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2017/03/candy-corners.html">Candy Corners Scarf</a></li><li>Bottom right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2022/04/mauerblumchen.html">Mauerblümchen Fingerless Gloves</a></li></ul><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OgrQ7kCNlLd8SXNWqZH-5U8wktO65BWA-zM1VLv-Rp0tfhj0f1kJj2ymSTX6tv42l5dBmp0wTle7v6eVtbXvFsUQDCdpM6Wnugck5Hwh_elNGMDY0hcLgFDn3XBwj5VGXzMeNPhv7AKjsQaTNVKyGZH5-9XQDuKlYqRMzrWuWaZsFW_bzNJzQm2C/s2000/june2022-6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7OgrQ7kCNlLd8SXNWqZH-5U8wktO65BWA-zM1VLv-Rp0tfhj0f1kJj2ymSTX6tv42l5dBmp0wTle7v6eVtbXvFsUQDCdpM6Wnugck5Hwh_elNGMDY0hcLgFDn3XBwj5VGXzMeNPhv7AKjsQaTNVKyGZH5-9XQDuKlYqRMzrWuWaZsFW_bzNJzQm2C/w400-h400/june2022-6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2019/08/escalera-scarf.html">Escalera Scarf</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/11/perpendicularity-mitts.html">Perpendicularity Mitts</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/03/zaunkonig.html">Zaunkönig</a></li><li>Bottom right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2017/05/wedges-wrap.html">Wedges Wrap</a></li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwh8_rv-s2oGOMY8IdUDUULIGx2nd7WaeJta_peXWaF0y3L4xabfCGVfsQFmxissrcQR2YiDjSqqdfJ63emdzxx5LiNJDLWWAh8wR7puITw39JnEI47RIb0DCn5iWI3qR8rxCHSh1IwjeZtSzLWWlxRrHElDo22COJxRIManVn5PF3dvhVvLzIPXpE/s2000/june2022-7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwh8_rv-s2oGOMY8IdUDUULIGx2nd7WaeJta_peXWaF0y3L4xabfCGVfsQFmxissrcQR2YiDjSqqdfJ63emdzxx5LiNJDLWWAh8wR7puITw39JnEI47RIb0DCn5iWI3qR8rxCHSh1IwjeZtSzLWWlxRrHElDo22COJxRIManVn5PF3dvhVvLzIPXpE/w400-h400/june2022-7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Top left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/02/slightly-slanted-fingerless-gloves.html">Slightly Slanted</a></li><li>Top right: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.de/2017/02/ice-maiden-cowl.html">Ice Maiden Cowl</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2019/11/stella-star-shaped-potholders.html">Stella Potholders</a></li><li>Bottom left: <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2020/05/tulpenzwiebeln-scarf.html">Tulpenzwiebeln Scarf</a></li></ul><div><p><br /></p></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-51634629780070220702022-05-06T20:43:00.006+02:002022-05-07T10:36:59.379+02:00Traverse Brioche Scarf<p>Two-colour brioche is a marvellous technique. It creates a lovely, squishy texture that is comforable to wear and it can be used to create quite intricate geometric patterns. </p><p>This rectangular scarf is knitted with a criss-cross pattern, i.e. a stitch that combines increases and decreases, combined with a zigzag effect that is created by switching the dominant colour within the row. Since it is done in two-colour brioche, both sides look great.</p><p>This scarf is made with Lace weight yarn, which provides a light summery touch. The one I knitted (half alpace, half merino) only weighs 170 grams; it measures 150 cm in length and 45 cm in width.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheAazhdHsbYssZmY72CUw270k3kOEFvkrkUzJVcE6UPvWnxRv39pl_YH7oTsnoU-HPzxdqoECEIG39Q0Rc4QvjzskHKeIj0xCvxteJAKd1G0_T5EP5tsnI6IHDxrb2zVfW6IdMk-YoD13gpYzrIJjpkoTR2WTn7j7Sm7pkr_AahUek1smYeXaOJaCp/s1500/traverse-title-small.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1459" data-original-width="1500" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheAazhdHsbYssZmY72CUw270k3kOEFvkrkUzJVcE6UPvWnxRv39pl_YH7oTsnoU-HPzxdqoECEIG39Q0Rc4QvjzskHKeIj0xCvxteJAKd1G0_T5EP5tsnI6IHDxrb2zVfW6IdMk-YoD13gpYzrIJjpkoTR2WTn7j7Sm7pkr_AahUek1smYeXaOJaCp/w441-h428/traverse-title-small.jpg" width="441" /></a></div><br />
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</p><p>The pattern PDF is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/traverse-brioche-scarf" target="_blank">Ravelry</a> </li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/catalog/product/view/id/436755" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a></li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/HFk6K" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><div><br /></div><p></p><p>The pattern PDF is 9 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>row-by-row pattern instructions</li><li>photo tutorials for the techniques you need for this piece:</li><ul><li>brk4inc</li><li>brk4dec </li><li>brk4dec4inc</li></ul><li>a schematic / cheat-sheet that explains the increases and decreases for this pattern</li></ul><div>In order to knit this pattern you should be familiar with basic two-colour brioche knitting.</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwhy8L8Kexn-rpfuWVMJSvyKlqBwr35cNVkFeB3EBkG6ntKuIN69_bjRdtcJLcqj1qlm4MAgWL897oIfObJs_uhNqe_fxhegA68apvK1kQLNuA3IREl9vpNfGYKnKAqdNgUI8H7d6PMxccMGNlRAfalH6qhUX7GPup6TjFms6cQfl9-xaRak62gei/s1000/quadrat1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBwhy8L8Kexn-rpfuWVMJSvyKlqBwr35cNVkFeB3EBkG6ntKuIN69_bjRdtcJLcqj1qlm4MAgWL897oIfObJs_uhNqe_fxhegA68apvK1kQLNuA3IREl9vpNfGYKnKAqdNgUI8H7d6PMxccMGNlRAfalH6qhUX7GPup6TjFms6cQfl9-xaRak62gei/w385-h385/quadrat1.jpg" width="385" /></a></div><br /><p>To knit a scarf like this you need the following materials</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of about 1100 metres of lace weight yarn – in two colours, <br />I used two (semi-)solid yarns: </li><ul><li>as LY I used light green Holst Garn, Titicaca (colorway “Wasabi”) </li><li>as DY I used royal blue Wollmeise Lace (colorway “Kornblume”) </li></ul><li>3 mm knitting needles – circulars or other needles with two points</li><li>2 stitch markers </li><li>a cable needle or a clippy stitch marker – for some of the brk4dec4inc and brk4dec stitches</li><li>tapestry needle for weaving in ends</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_OGg1CK45aP4yR-U-kznCzBm7SSy-wSSkwaO98U8lP0Xmu-dCPsyzWmQP1jnWVve3wzCLgHH9cm-ONRX2XDALrd_ZsxNBerznTEvic1joqK5JQr7VWutRxrGf8tvKrbplh0L8OgLNB9MslxHjTs-wT1uzugDDye7Hnf5MyOTBSom6NZw_bsSrjgEy/s2824/quadrat2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2824" data-original-width="2816" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_OGg1CK45aP4yR-U-kznCzBm7SSy-wSSkwaO98U8lP0Xmu-dCPsyzWmQP1jnWVve3wzCLgHH9cm-ONRX2XDALrd_ZsxNBerznTEvic1joqK5JQr7VWutRxrGf8tvKrbplh0L8OgLNB9MslxHjTs-wT1uzugDDye7Hnf5MyOTBSom6NZw_bsSrjgEy/w353-h354/quadrat2.jpg" width="353" /></a></div><div><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTP-vyLhqfzfiagLhR92kSQtYWt6BeR3zHx8hLqdf8O2Tg8jA3W_szbyp8nZR2G6Zg27ovUvlFnEAPkBqRAjlY_Sh9gM6pOHeI4jYiHE_DBypm6jbXrrRN7gR7KpshpH11Ns_c5HYnR3Rsw59d6CjRaycs2Fv0w9nRP0z0PXBA4riBuWk3BPN8JzOQ/s2518/2022-05-06%2014.50.22.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2518" data-original-width="2518" height="347" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTP-vyLhqfzfiagLhR92kSQtYWt6BeR3zHx8hLqdf8O2Tg8jA3W_szbyp8nZR2G6Zg27ovUvlFnEAPkBqRAjlY_Sh9gM6pOHeI4jYiHE_DBypm6jbXrrRN7gR7KpshpH11Ns_c5HYnR3Rsw59d6CjRaycs2Fv0w9nRP0z0PXBA4riBuWk3BPN8JzOQ/w347-h347/2022-05-06%2014.50.22.jpg" width="347" /></a></div><br /><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-53170950693487780882022-04-21T09:49:00.009+02:002022-04-21T09:53:42.499+02:00Pieces of Eight Mitts in Dutch - Gratis Breipatroon<p style="text-align: left;">Carolien (or <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/people/mijikke">mijikke on Ravelry</a>) has provided a Dutch translation of the Pieces of Eight Mitts. Hartelijk bedankt!</p><p>The <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nW6crFBRV4gi5bJIDlpE4O1wfezHDtak/view?usp=sharing">Dutch translation can be found here</a>.</p><p>The <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2014/02/pieces-of-eight-mitts.html">original English version is available here</a> - as well as links to German and Danish translations.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaCS0irPlNdX8o4wTHIJTONG9Uj8uKdbqzhiiGKM7i7J9e7hpip_4tfbvMEMFXpRRuS2nypAgDzbVW_FzvCB1IUj5f-Q5zAB-jrOXCUIJ02ito6LuDNNGsk3m1Etjr5OAB3arDVwkhFikpDTGyyB4Po90Vp-VXZEiC0F-twR-EJKPlKOewKgY5hgO/s1077/Titel-Dutch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="876" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaCS0irPlNdX8o4wTHIJTONG9Uj8uKdbqzhiiGKM7i7J9e7hpip_4tfbvMEMFXpRRuS2nypAgDzbVW_FzvCB1IUj5f-Q5zAB-jrOXCUIJ02ito6LuDNNGsk3m1Etjr5OAB3arDVwkhFikpDTGyyB4Po90Vp-VXZEiC0F-twR-EJKPlKOewKgY5hgO/w447-h550/Titel-Dutch.jpg" width="447" /></a></div><br />
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</p><p>A list of all translations of my patterns can be found <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/01/translations-of-my-patterns.html">in this blogpost</a>.</p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-72166947717321540502022-04-16T14:32:00.007+02:002022-04-16T16:23:22.757+02:00Mauerblümchen<p>Here's another pattern for fingerless gloves - again knitted flat and in garter stitch. </p><p>These fingerless gloves are knitted flat and in garter stitch. They are shaped with short rows around a point at the outer wrist, the thumb is created one half at a time (with a short knitted CO and a BO). The flower pattern is done in intarsia technique. The project starts with a provisional cast on and finishes with grafting in garter stitch. In the end the side seams are sewn up.</p><p>Since this is an intarsia project with three colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly. It is <b>NOT a beginner pattern</b>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLCcrAEjlLpSopIgM6pzOgk_4-xZqwdqGRMdt-QdwqLt0lCPaWpLWcF22JmxL-2PN_D3clITZRZsCorMv_ICM334S7S4gcFlmlwijrajsoJEXLwlHsA4eFKmPgRUT1th9IYnnlJoSWAiBaEwTy1UdOvdbBEyeefnU1yJ3aqFo10lVz4khus9gnr0KV/s2247/titel.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2247" data-original-width="1815" height="551" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLCcrAEjlLpSopIgM6pzOgk_4-xZqwdqGRMdt-QdwqLt0lCPaWpLWcF22JmxL-2PN_D3clITZRZsCorMv_ICM334S7S4gcFlmlwijrajsoJEXLwlHsA4eFKmPgRUT1th9IYnnlJoSWAiBaEwTy1UdOvdbBEyeefnU1yJ3aqFo10lVz4khus9gnr0KV/w444-h551/titel.jpg" width="444" /></a></div><p>As to the name, "Mauerblümchen" is the German word for wall flower - it ties in with my <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/11/blumchen-fingerless-gloves.html">Blümchen Fingerless Gloves</a> that have a flower motive around the thumb.</p><p>The knitting pattern in available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mauerblumchen-fingerless-gloves" target="_blank">Ravelry</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/catalog/product/view/id/434054" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a></li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/lzofc" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><p></p><p></p><p>
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<br /></p><p>The pattern PDF is 13 pages long and contains </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting a mitt in one size (slight adjustments can be made by using a different needle size) – including nine in-process photos </li><li>a pattern chart</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it</li><li>grafting in garter stitch</li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps </li><li>intarsia knitting and weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)</li><li>knitted CO </li></ul></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GrIhQgQwm-BS69WdDr1WPB8MsUWoDgOkbHMnxOaxUJmNIAyuB6uwsykXMU26UoZ5IH_iXVrG5JYlEVbky7TN_08Bd4CwOJfjxMnzlkxT-y6gNPoro-3oOkx40UOA3GgihDDVGGOdRXCwuBWYpscGl_eDUS_a6G_-y0jmFySwDmBVEzkArIn_3Mgk/s1518/graurosa2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1518" data-original-width="1518" height="407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GrIhQgQwm-BS69WdDr1WPB8MsUWoDgOkbHMnxOaxUJmNIAyuB6uwsykXMU26UoZ5IH_iXVrG5JYlEVbky7TN_08Bd4CwOJfjxMnzlkxT-y6gNPoro-3oOkx40UOA3GgihDDVGGOdRXCwuBWYpscGl_eDUS_a6G_-y0jmFySwDmBVEzkArIn_3Mgk/w407-h407/graurosa2.jpg" width="407" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><b><i>Gauge and Size</i></b></div><div>I knitted two pairs – one with 2.5 mm needles and one with 3 mm needles – see photo below.</div><div>With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece knitted with 2.5 mm needles is about 17 - 18 cm high (at it's highest point) and about 17 cm in diameter (without just below the thumb). </div><div>With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures about 19 - 20 cm in height and about 19 cm in diameter (just below the thumb).</div><div>However, the pieces are all in garter stitch, so they are quite stretchy.</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ_S2v_2DtJeOvjGK3VKsx9pk96wytM8aDFoNnl2h6TPlDZlhrngxmODcAdQ33uWa7BNItIY2sqOYVjv52CZhqRhR090-4Z6n8GJxyUsXNI1MPZYrMcB-5oCDv5CK-SjKNh798XJ9IK_WPK028-6gAhxhPYueSfeI_RbnIZIv0ZTXS-FIx03K0QOdR/s2203/sizes-quadrat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2203" data-original-width="2203" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ_S2v_2DtJeOvjGK3VKsx9pk96wytM8aDFoNnl2h6TPlDZlhrngxmODcAdQ33uWa7BNItIY2sqOYVjv52CZhqRhR090-4Z6n8GJxyUsXNI1MPZYrMcB-5oCDv5CK-SjKNh798XJ9IK_WPK028-6gAhxhPYueSfeI_RbnIZIv0ZTXS-FIx03K0QOdR/s320/sizes-quadrat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>To knit a pair of these fingerless gloves you need the following materials:</div><div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of 30 to 35 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors:</li><ul><li>about 12 grams per mitt for C1 (background color)</li><li>about 4 grams per mitt for C2 (flower color)</li></ul><li>2.5 mm <b>or </b>3 mm knitting needles (or another needle that gives you the gauge) – straight or circulars</li><li>scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO</li><li>a tapestry needles for grafting, sewing and to weave in ends</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmABjWtXK2UuhP-9HXhSiRsptYO_8I_wOuX9uZcxJen9SkGF9xJkUrRLaGaZZ_5kVJIpKaM0FF8fk2yG0NnQ78ALHHOKkybNPwIWeX9DWCPuQCTzDrL6ls-9jbbl6WEtbBY-0avRQaG1PP1cyRHIT2q7wdwbWI-HbdxfPYRtqXQDug9IrYhB2mLT-q/s1602/1ungenaeht.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1602" data-original-width="1602" height="401" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmABjWtXK2UuhP-9HXhSiRsptYO_8I_wOuX9uZcxJen9SkGF9xJkUrRLaGaZZ_5kVJIpKaM0FF8fk2yG0NnQ78ALHHOKkybNPwIWeX9DWCPuQCTzDrL6ls-9jbbl6WEtbBY-0avRQaG1PP1cyRHIT2q7wdwbWI-HbdxfPYRtqXQDug9IrYhB2mLT-q/w401-h401/1ungenaeht.jpg" width="401" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div></div></div><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-41021409486709381882022-03-10T20:12:00.006+01:002022-03-11T10:27:09.530+01:00Ripple Fingerless Gloves<p>Fingerless gloves are my favorite accessory – there are so many varieties and ways to construct them.</p><p>The ones here are knitted flat and in garter stitch with a wave pattern. One edge of the flat row is the thumb around which the mitt shaped in short rows. It starts with a provisional cast on and ends with a row of grafting in garter stitch. The wavy patternis created with increases and decreases.</p><p>This is NOT a beginner pattern.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEixHw-_UhvzU03EQ33Zwd4I71wEalCSCVEqZ8RqHUNo605BcDbasKvZ8oaVb1m3JnKulOl9eWhZzL8sMFvneHCnOOMqzP1ETJMUw4ro7CerB9SKjVWVG1mKVRwsHa4bootw-7MCLGXKCI81ojN4L7WtBVUyoQTZNY4fLl0zpCqGlLo9PJoCYUNf2IMU=s2061" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2061" data-original-width="1698" height="567" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEixHw-_UhvzU03EQ33Zwd4I71wEalCSCVEqZ8RqHUNo605BcDbasKvZ8oaVb1m3JnKulOl9eWhZzL8sMFvneHCnOOMqzP1ETJMUw4ro7CerB9SKjVWVG1mKVRwsHa4bootw-7MCLGXKCI81ojN4L7WtBVUyoQTZNY4fLl0zpCqGlLo9PJoCYUNf2IMU=w467-h567" width="467" /></a></div><br /><p>The knitting pattern is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ripple-fingerless-gloves-5" target="_blank">Ravelry</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/catalog/product/view/id/427666/" target="_blank">Lovecrafts</a></li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/0SslN" target="_blank">Payhip</a> </li></ul><p></p><p><br />
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<p><br /></p><p>The pattern PDF is 12 pages long contains </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting a mitt in <b>one size</b> (slight adjustments can be made by using a different needle size)– including six photos of the different stages </li><li>a full pattern chart</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques:</li><ul><li>provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it</li><li>grafting in garter stitch</li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps </li></ul></ul><p></p><div><br /></div><div><div><b>Gauge and Size</b></div><div><br /></div><div>I knitted pairs in two needle sizes – with 2.5 mm needles and with 3 mm needles – see photo below:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece knitted with 2.5 mm needles is about 19 cm high (at it's highest point) and about 17 cm in diameter (without just below the thumb). </li><li>With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures about 20 cm in height and about 19 cm in diameter (just below the thumb).</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjM8wJBFu2PgaaO-b5wCbsMeHSRXWvNDxLfLU32bM2zl1t1KLkDtPkGi09GP842NeJm-jAzx2XxATJR6E_TbNkibOUay5YrXMKGzGRjhmulXJQyzVuJXWM05wn9kQJ9MAEjcRMc0YGRqORvVtLtbkOzLRNoJk1JhOxJix9eqW4ml8R7ch01Mo6S95vY=s2144" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2144" data-original-width="2144" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjM8wJBFu2PgaaO-b5wCbsMeHSRXWvNDxLfLU32bM2zl1t1KLkDtPkGi09GP842NeJm-jAzx2XxATJR6E_TbNkibOUay5YrXMKGzGRjhmulXJQyzVuJXWM05wn9kQJ9MAEjcRMc0YGRqORvVtLtbkOzLRNoJk1JhOxJix9eqW4ml8R7ch01Mo6S95vY=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><div>To knit a pair of these fingerless gloves you need:</div><div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of about 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn - I used </li><ul><li>Zwerger Opal Fairytale (colorway 9794 Knusperhaus) for nearly rainbow colored mitts in the title photo (<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/zwerger-garn-opal-fairytale" target="_blank">link to the yarn's Ravelry page</a>)</li><li>Vendita sock yarn (colorway 12) for the blue green pair (<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/vendita-sockenwolle-4-fach" target="_blank">link to the yarn's Ravelry page</a>)</li><li>Zwerger Opal 4-ply (colourway 9692, "Ice Cream / Sahnequark") for the grey pair (<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/zwerger-garn-opal-4-fach-4-ply" target="_blank">link to the yarn's Ravelry page</a>)</li></ul><li>2.5 mm <b>or </b>3 mm knitting needles (or another needle that gives you the gauge) – straight or circulars</li><li>scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO</li><li>10 stitch markers – 4 of which removable </li><li>a tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends</li></ul></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiV0JnH0QF4_giAU2OLnW4ul44Wuy-QOwYXrl-BbzhIZlXNlK0eYhnm5QrVTKFUfuqJZuwSUgVYTVrAhsog2wpWTSu_OgQvvrARMb5GYnd2q--vBig9x6UE2AEgn2xqsgRMczFX_o_BoUGoXw07qgPzzv0oaSFPTLDymMonmik2vJoc6CIDec1snWiU=s2688" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2688" data-original-width="2688" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiV0JnH0QF4_giAU2OLnW4ul44Wuy-QOwYXrl-BbzhIZlXNlK0eYhnm5QrVTKFUfuqJZuwSUgVYTVrAhsog2wpWTSu_OgQvvrARMb5GYnd2q--vBig9x6UE2AEgn2xqsgRMczFX_o_BoUGoXw07qgPzzv0oaSFPTLDymMonmik2vJoc6CIDec1snWiU=w320-h320" title="One mitt finished - one mitts needs to be sewn up" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One mitt finished - one mitt needs to be sewn up</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div></div></div></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-25379271619566027112021-11-26T10:24:00.023+01:002021-12-18T14:24:36.340+01:00Starry Christmas Decorations - Knitted<p>The first sunday of advent is coming up, which is the time to decorate your space as christmassy as possible. And for me stars - knitted and otherwise - are the best way to do so. </p><p>So here are two seasonal patterns that help to bring a starry sparkle to your home.</p><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Stella Star-Shaped Potholders</b></p><p></p><p>These potholders (doilies, coasters) are knitted flat and in garter stitch. This pattern was published two years ago. Lately, I have completely reviewed it and added two more variations. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pspZugyv8mQ/YaDkFEDtp8I/AAAAAAAAQYs/wHmW1tews5wM_1GclXTyKElFxQJvVEXSwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2000/4stelle.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pspZugyv8mQ/YaDkFEDtp8I/AAAAAAAAQYs/wHmW1tews5wM_1GclXTyKElFxQJvVEXSwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/4stelle.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>The new pattern PDF 14 pages long and contains:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>the complete written patterns for stars in two sizes including charts</li><li>a general pattern how to knit stars in other sizes – containing also a photo tutorial</li><li>three further variations of this pattern (see photos below)</li><ul><li>a <b>lacy variation </b>of this star – written pattern and a chart</li><li>a pattern for a<b> two-colour variation</b> – written pattern, a chart and detailed instructions how to undo the provisional CO in two colours and how to do the grafting in two colours</li><li>a<b> three-colour variation</b> – chart only </li></ul><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>provisional cast on with a crochet hook and how to undo it</li><li>grafting in garter stitch</li><li>intarsia</li></ul></ul><p></p><p>You can buy this pattern</p><div><ul><li>via <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stella-potholder">Ravelry</a>,</li><li>via <a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/stella-potholder-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Loveknitting</a>,</li><li>and via <a href="https://payhip.com/b/aYToC">Payhip</a>.</li></ul></div><div></div><p>
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</p><p><br /></p><p></p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_q-75Nxd1Lw/W_gkFFaEKCI/AAAAAAAAOJk/CypDuIygPbQQWEM1TgUTmA5CfNlzDwanwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_20181122_172704_619.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_q-75Nxd1Lw/W_gkFFaEKCI/AAAAAAAAOJk/CypDuIygPbQQWEM1TgUTmA5CfNlzDwanwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/IMG_20181122_172704_619.jpg" width="320" /></a></p><b>Sternchen 3D-Stars</b><p></p><p>Even though these stars are 3-dimensional they are knitted flat. They have six points, are constructed of short rows and knitted (nearly) all in garter stitch. They come in four sizes and can be used to decorate your house for Christmas.</p><p>The pattern PDF contains<br /></p><ul><li>a written pattern for <b>four sizes </b>of these little stars (ranging from 6 to 14 cm in diameter - if knitted in fingering weight yarn)</li><li>a chart for two sizes</li><li>photo illustrations for various stages of star</li></ul><p>The pattern is available as a PDF</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>via<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sternchen-2"> Ravelry</a>, </li><li>via<a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/de-de/p/sternchen-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra"> Loveknitting</a> and </li><li>via <a href="https://payhip.com/b/R15Bh" target="_blank">Payhip</a>.</li></ul><p></p>
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SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-6540063184758172482021-11-13T11:10:00.005+01:002021-11-19T10:17:05.345+01:00U-Turn Hat in 6-Ply Yarn<p>About four years ago, I published a hat pattern that was based on the idea of a magic cast-on and knitting around it in a U-shape (<a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/11/u-turn-hat.html">U-Turn Hat</a>) - as with many of my knitted accessories, it is knitted in fingering weight. Motivated by an online discussion with Angela from <a href="https://bestrickendes.de">bestrickendes.de</a>, I thought it might be a good idea to knit it in a thicker yarn. So the next time I went into a yarn store, I looked for some self-striping 6- or 8-ply yarn. I bought some Zwerger Opal Sweet Dreams (Colorway 9720 Sternentänzer, here's a link to <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/zwerger-garn-opal-sweet-dreams-6-fach-6-ply">the yarn's Ravelry page</a>).</p><p>In this blogpost, I'll explain how I "adapted" the pattern to 6-ply yarn. </p><p>If you like that kind of construction, I have used a similar idea before for fingerless gloves (<a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2015/03/u-turn-mitts.html">U-Turn Mitts</a>) and slipppers (<a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/04/u-turn-slippers.html">U-Turn Slippers</a>).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eO0VgxzKBAk/YY98Aep1PKI/AAAAAAAAQXo/V07Q3KPqsRw7_0Zvwq8VDt0ENIg6XqnugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1030/uturnhat6ply2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1030" data-original-width="1030" height="411" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eO0VgxzKBAk/YY98Aep1PKI/AAAAAAAAQXo/V07Q3KPqsRw7_0Zvwq8VDt0ENIg6XqnugCLcBGAsYHQ/w411-h411/uturnhat6ply2.jpg" width="411" /></a></div>
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<br /><p><br /></p><p><b>Step 1: Check the general construction</b></p><p>The hat is knitted flat an in a U-shape around the first magic CO. Each row consists of a garter stitch part (ribbing - at the beginning and end of each row) and a semicircular bit around the turning point of the U. The slope is achieved by changing the number of increases and decreases. See schematic below.<br /><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--vetUdnAoSk/Wg6aOK_VhpI/AAAAAAAAMeI/Sh-4PYemwj88GI5BExdIQL0PuXpCZRI3ACLcBGAs/s1600/Construction-with-Letters.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="699" height="393" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--vetUdnAoSk/Wg6aOK_VhpI/AAAAAAAAMeI/Sh-4PYemwj88GI5BExdIQL0PuXpCZRI3ACLcBGAs/s400/Construction-with-Letters.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption">Construction - click to enlarge</td></tr></tbody></table><p>First there are 4 decreases every 2nd row (section A), which basically creates a semicircle above the ribbing. Then only 3 increases (section B), then only 2 (section C), then only 1 (section D) and finally there will be a few rows without any increases at all (section E).</p><p>Once you've reached the middle of your piece, you will knit the same backwards, i.e. there will be decreases instead of increases. That means you start with no decreases (section F), then switch to 1 decrease every 2nd row (section G), then 2 decreases every 2nd row (section H), then 3 (section I) and finally 4 decreases every 2nd row (section J). Until there are only as many stitches left as in the original CO. The piece is finished with a three-needle BO.</p><p>To get the slope to fit around a standard head the pattern suggests that of the total number of rows necessary reach the middle of the piece should be divided as follows:</p><ul><li>about 1/3 for RS rows with 4 in/decreases</li><li>about the same number for RS rows with 3 in/decreses</li><li>about 1/6 for RS rows with 2 in/decreases</li><li>divide the remaining rows equally into rows 1 in/decrease and no in/decrease. </li></ul><div><br /></div><p><b>Step 2: Knit a swatch </b></p><p>Yes, really. Even though I don't like swatching I knitted a small piece to find out how many rows I needed for the hat to fit around my head and how many stitches I needed to get my desired height of garter stitch ribbing.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Step 3: Calculate and distribute the rows</b></p><p>I decided that I wanted a ribbing about 6 cm high (13 stitches as per my swatch). For a quarter of the circumference of my head I calculated that I would need 27 ridges or 54 rows. </p><p>I then divided the 27 ridges into the sections as follows:</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>section A /J: 9 ridges</li><li>section B/I: 8 ridges</li><li>section C/H: 5 ridges</li><li>section D/G: 3 ridges</li><li>section E/F: 2 ridges</li><li>=> total number of ridges 27</li></ul><div>As you can see, the distribution of the sections is not as exact as suggested by the pattern. But since the resulting fabric (knitting) is quite stretchy, that doesn't matter.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><p></p><p><b>Step 4: Knit </b></p><div><p>And while you're knitting, check and measure from time to time, if your calculations are correct and - if necessary - adapt.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vyx55RyrOY0/YY-NmtTqWoI/AAAAAAAAQXw/5Rstsqlb534uDqS_e6v2aZFkINp5ukU8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20211011_164709_254.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="372" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vyx55RyrOY0/YY-NmtTqWoI/AAAAAAAAQXw/5Rstsqlb534uDqS_e6v2aZFkINp5ukU8ACLcBGAsYHQ/w372-h372/IMG_20211011_164709_254.jpg" width="372" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-7289740190048702762021-11-05T20:29:00.012+01:002023-04-14T15:57:18.679+02:00Blümchen Fingerless Gloves<p>I love fingerless gloves. They are my favorite accessory – and also my favorite piece to knit because they offer so many varieties of constructing them. These are knitted flat and in garter stitch. One edge of the row is the thumb and the mitt shaped around it in short rows. The flower pattern is done in intarsia technique. The piece starts with a provisional CO and is finished by grafting in garter stitch. After grafting the side seams are sewn up.</p><p>Since this is an intarsia project with three colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly. It is <b>NOT a beginner pattern</b>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kl17KCoEK14/YXKm8asHIeI/AAAAAAAAQWI/m6ekF_RTXWUG4FtM5LNH3OCkvyZDQDNjACLcBGAsYHQ/s1989/titel3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1989" data-original-width="1638" height="535" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kl17KCoEK14/YXKm8asHIeI/AAAAAAAAQWI/m6ekF_RTXWUG4FtM5LNH3OCkvyZDQDNjACLcBGAsYHQ/w441-h535/titel3.jpg" width="441" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div><p>The pattern is available via </p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blumchen-fingerless-gloves" target="_blank">Ravelry</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/blumchen-fingerless-gloves-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Lovecrafts</a></li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/JgUkK" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L7_9Tuarjeo/YXKpaZf_8SI/AAAAAAAAQWY/GhEIRbVA5XIurFmEzCIKWz5Qn8SxTz4dwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1704/qudrat4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1704" data-original-width="1704" height="379" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L7_9Tuarjeo/YXKpaZf_8SI/AAAAAAAAQWY/GhEIRbVA5XIurFmEzCIKWz5Qn8SxTz4dwCLcBGAsYHQ/w379-h379/qudrat4.jpg" width="379" /></a></div><br /><p>The pattern PDF is 15 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting a glove <b>in one size</b> (see below) – including eight photos of the different stages</li><li>pattern chart</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques</li><ul><li>provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it</li><li>grafting in garter stitch</li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps </li><li>intarsia knitting </li><li>weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)</li></ul><li>step-by-step explanations with photos of</li><ul><li>undoing the provisional CO in this pattern (i.e. catching stitches in different colours)</li><li>grafting with colour changes</li></ul></ul><div style="text-align: right;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NujjzL0qT5Q/YXKnCleOBWI/AAAAAAAAQWM/oPWwp6uWT180Cs3qQNPOC4mks4WsP7XEACLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/quadrat2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NujjzL0qT5Q/YXKnCleOBWI/AAAAAAAAQWM/oPWwp6uWT180Cs3qQNPOC4mks4WsP7XEACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/quadrat2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b>Gauge and Size(s)</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I knitted two pairs – one with 2.5 mm needles and one with 3 mm needles:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece knitted with 2.5 mm needles is about 18 cm high (at it's highest point) and about 16 cm in diameter (without just below the thumb). </li><li>With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures about 20 cm in height and about 18 cm in diameter (just below the thumb).</li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">However, the pieces are all in garter stitch, so they are quite stretchy.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The picture below shows a comparison of the two "sizes".</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ROm9JZ7Z5Y/YXZpdH2IuDI/AAAAAAAAQW0/6FwRpHfogXwnNlMaA3jcfVH529bYFg-lwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/sizes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="345" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ROm9JZ7Z5Y/YXZpdH2IuDI/AAAAAAAAQW0/6FwRpHfogXwnNlMaA3jcfVH529bYFg-lwCLcBGAsYHQ/w345-h345/sizes.jpg" width="345" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">To knit a pair of these fingerless gloves you need the following materials</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Fingering weight yarn in three colors – I used a total about 35 to 40 grams (or 150 to 170 metres):</li><ul><li>about 20 grams of C1 (green in the title picture)</li><li>about 14 grams of C2 (white in the title picture)</li><li>about 4 grams of C3 (pink in the title picture)</li></ul><li>2.5 mm or 3 mm knitting needles – straight or circulars (or another needle that gives you the gauge) </li><li>scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO</li><li>2 removable stitch markers </li><li>two tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends</li></ul><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fNtOkBfZdZE/YX1LhSs9Z2I/AAAAAAAAQXI/PAWRe7UFd8oVqF3W7aZ4lv7ZqSVz2piLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1735/2021-10-30%2B13.44.47.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1732" data-original-width="1735" height="346" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fNtOkBfZdZE/YX1LhSs9Z2I/AAAAAAAAQXI/PAWRe7UFd8oVqF3W7aZ4lv7ZqSVz2piLgCLcBGAsYHQ/w347-h346/2021-10-30%2B13.44.47.jpeg" width="347" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before finishing the 2nd mitt :)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><p></p>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-14778119076433828402021-10-08T18:02:00.009+02:002022-06-06T14:37:52.746+02:00Crossbeams Cowl<p> Two-colour brioche is a marvellous technique. It creates a lovely, squishy texture that is really comforable to wear. Plus, it can be used to create quite intricate geometric patterns. </p><p>For this cowl a criss-cross pattern is used, a stitch that combines an increase and a decrease. Since it is brioche, both sides will look nice. </p><p>The whole piece is knitted flat and the end product will look seamless. This means that it starts with a provisional cast-on and is finished by grafting in two-colour brioche. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VAKVJ1Qkh9o/YWBBZLC3r8I/AAAAAAAAQVU/6WM74jeb9qE9AIRXucRZ3dfVAbCsC8IbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/titel2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1471" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VAKVJ1Qkh9o/YWBBZLC3r8I/AAAAAAAAQVU/6WM74jeb9qE9AIRXucRZ3dfVAbCsC8IbwCLcBGAsYHQ/w461-h640/titel2.jpg" width="461" /></a></div><p><br />
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<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/badges/redirect?p=crossbeams-cowl"><img src="https://api.ravelry.com/badges/projects?p=crossbeams-cowl&t=.svg" style="border: none;" /></a><p>The pattern PDF is available via</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/crossbeams-cowl" target="_blank">Ravelry</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/catalog/product/view/id/399100/">Lovecrafts</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/Ek1L8" target="_blank">Payhip</a></li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ThoHr2XpAXM/YWA_IqF5_NI/AAAAAAAAQVM/7p2YquCpGZw9BhOEtkhHfMCk8Nddfc-bACLcBGAsYHQ/s1597/2021-09-25%2B10.13.08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1597" data-original-width="1597" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ThoHr2XpAXM/YWA_IqF5_NI/AAAAAAAAQVM/7p2YquCpGZw9BhOEtkhHfMCk8Nddfc-bACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/2021-09-25%2B10.13.08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>This pattern PDF is pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>row-by-row pattern instructions</li><li>a chart of a pattern repeat</li><li>photo tutorials for the techniques you need for this piece:</li><ul><li>brk4dec4inc</li><li>provisional cast on (with crochet hook and scrap yarn)</li><li>grafting in two-colour brioche</li></ul></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I-nUgRx8nYI/YWA-zYegjEI/AAAAAAAAQVA/7uHkWTn4cC8smJLjHGvLc4HWPEyAHPeMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/2021-09-25%2B10.11.19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I-nUgRx8nYI/YWA-zYegjEI/AAAAAAAAQVA/7uHkWTn4cC8smJLjHGvLc4HWPEyAHPeMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/2021-09-25%2B10.11.19.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div>To knit this cowl (in double length, i.e. to fit twice around your neck) you will need the following materials</div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>a total of 180 grams (about 730 metres) of fingering weight yarn – in two colours, i.e. 90 grams of each color; I used Malabrigo sock yarn (merino) </li><li>3.5 mm knitting needles – circulars or other needles with two points</li><li>a cable needle</li><li>crochet hook and scrap yarn</li><li>a tapestry needle for grafting and weaving in ends</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LFkYQSs7DUg/YWA-7EQ14aI/AAAAAAAAQVE/uZe5SnassTA7rIYCoT1RcBLwbG7qsHRtACLcBGAsYHQ/s1036/tragefoto2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1036" data-original-width="1036" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LFkYQSs7DUg/YWA-7EQ14aI/AAAAAAAAQVE/uZe5SnassTA7rIYCoT1RcBLwbG7qsHRtACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/tragefoto2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-52985288153577446082021-08-06T20:16:00.008+02:002022-04-29T15:30:54.864+02:00Jasmin<p>During the last months my knitting inspiration was quite low. All bigger project didn't seem appealing to me, so I started (again) playing around with colorful cotton and small motifs. And here's what I came up with. A knitting pattern for a hexagonal potholder with a flower motif. It starts with a provisional CO, is knitted in short row wedges and finished with grafting in garter stitch.</p><p>Since this is an intarsia project with two colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly. It is NOT a beginner pattern.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NmheaqD929I/YQ0x7xbTqDI/AAAAAAAAQTs/b92njeuSsI4hu8fJ86nvJQOwWY4jNlFsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1313/titel1000.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1313" data-original-width="1000" height="568" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NmheaqD929I/YQ0x7xbTqDI/AAAAAAAAQTs/b92njeuSsI4hu8fJ86nvJQOwWY4jNlFsQCLcBGAsYHQ/w433-h568/titel1000.jpg" width="433" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The pattern is available at<div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/jasmin-7" target="_blank">Ravelry</a></li><li><a href="https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-gb/p/jasmin-knitting-pattern-by-sybil-ra" target="_blank">Loveknitting / Lovecrafts</a> </li><li><a href="https://payhip.com/b/3RZ4x">Payhip</a></li></ul></div><div><p><br />
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<br /></p><p>The pattern PDF is 11 pages long and contains</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece – including five photos of the different stages</li><li>a brief explanation on how to adapt the pattern for a version with different petal colours (see photo below)</li><li>pattern charts for one wedge of the original pattern and the variation</li><li>short photo tutorials for the following techniques: </li><ul><li>provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it, grafting in garter stitch, </li><li>short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps, intarsia knitting, weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)</li><li>step-by-step explanations with photos of undoing the provisional CO in this pattern (i.e. catching stitches in different colours), grafting with colour changes</li></ul></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MUsLEaQF1bw/YQ0vh2cNNII/AAAAAAAAQTk/0I6ZO4AJqNkEKCp3aUqTWOcMJK3i3bATQCLcBGAsYHQ/s500/rainbow-variant.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" height="377" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MUsLEaQF1bw/YQ0vh2cNNII/AAAAAAAAQTk/0I6ZO4AJqNkEKCp3aUqTWOcMJK3i3bATQCLcBGAsYHQ/w377-h377/rainbow-variant.png" width="377" /></a></div><br /><div>To knit one of these potholders/coasters you need the following materials:</div><p></p><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Cotton yarn in two colors – I knitted these potholders in Aran and in Thread weight yarn</li><ul><li>in Aran weight I used a total of 65 meters (about 30 meters of C1 and 35 meters of C2</li><li>in Thread weight a total of 50 meters (also a bit more for C2 than for C1)</li></ul><li>knitting needles – straight or circulars: I used 3.5mm needles for Aran weight yarn, i.e. smaller than the yarn usually requires because I wanted a firm texture. </li><li>scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO</li><li>two tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends</li></ul><div>Knitted in Aran weight yarn the pieces measured between 22 and 25 cm in diameter.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kDv_ug6AmOA/YQ1Ikl-nBDI/AAAAAAAAQT0/AVUKe4KJyxQUjsvVdIu9C9Sg1NOiK5RWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20210806_163042_292.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="412" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kDv_ug6AmOA/YQ1Ikl-nBDI/AAAAAAAAQT0/AVUKe4KJyxQUjsvVdIu9C9Sg1NOiK5RWwCLcBGAsYHQ/w412-h412/IMG_20210806_163042_292.jpg" width="412" /></a></div><br /></div></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3909799331326452317.post-68551618818985653562021-07-30T13:54:00.003+02:002021-07-30T13:56:36.547+02:00Troldmandens øje - Ojos de Bruja Scarf in Danish<p>Marianne Holmen from <a href="http://strikkeglad.dk">strikkeglad.dk</a> has written another Danish translation of one of my free knitting patterns. This time for my Ojos de Bruja Scarf. Mange tak!</p><p>Here's the <a href="https://strikkeglad.dk/29826/troldmandens-oeje/">link to the Danish version</a>.<br />And here's the <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2015/06/ojos-de-bruja-scarf.html">original English version</a>.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Sp6qfauj1g/YQPn3KOOr8I/AAAAAAAAQTI/tfx6_KUdQg4qADWRhT_PyPw9XT9i0xkVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1356/2015-06-19%2B16.34.59-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1356" data-original-width="1356" height="403" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Sp6qfauj1g/YQPn3KOOr8I/AAAAAAAAQTI/tfx6_KUdQg4qADWRhT_PyPw9XT9i0xkVQCLcBGAsYHQ/w403-h403/2015-06-19%2B16.34.59-1.jpg" width="403" /></a></div><p><a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-nc-sa/4.0/80x15.png" style="border-width: 0px;" /></a></p>This work by <span property="cc:attributionName" xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#"><a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2021/07/troldmandens-je-ojos-de-bruja-scarf-in.html">Knitting and so on</a></span> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License</a>.<br /><div>
<br />
<a href="http://www.ravelry.com/badges/redirect?p=ojos-de-bruja-scarf"><img src="https://api.ravelry.com/badges/projects?p=ojos-de-bruja-scarf&t=.svg" style="border: none;" /></a><div><p>A list of all translated versions of my patterns <a href="https://knitting-and-so-on.blogspot.com/2017/01/translations-of-my-patterns.html">can be found in this blogpost</a>.</p></div></div>SRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15167533268192123229noreply@blogger.com0