Sonntag, 10. August 2014

Shaping with Short Rows

I'm really looking forward to have it finished and blocked ... and to see how it looks then. I quite like how the triangles add up to the crescent shape.

Samstag, 2. August 2014

Wellengang Short Row Scarf

This slim elegant scarf is made from one skein of fingering weight yarn. It's easy to knit - the pattern consists of only 8 rows to repeat. The wave pattern is achieved by stacks of short rows - with an offset of two stitches for each row. "Wellengang" is the german word for sea state or swell.



Creative Commons License
This work by Kntting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



A German version of this pattern can be found here.
Diese Anleitung gibt es hier auch auf Deutsch.

Materials
  • 100 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 3.75mm needles (3.5mm or 4mm needles will do as well)
  • stitch markers
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Notation
  • German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
    For purposes of this pattern, this pulled stitch will NOT be counted after turning.
  • Drop Stitches/Elongated Stitches: In the first row insert the right hand needle into the next stitch and wrap the yarn around it 3 times - in the next row drop all your extra wraps, i.e. only knit one stitch per three wraps. Here are some YouTube videos that show this technique see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_PtbMLkty4 or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NN0sbky-3IE)
    I personally prefer the method of doing yarn overs (2 yo's in case of this pattern) inbetween the stitches - the result is the same. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a video in English for this - this one is in German: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqcnTlwYzTQ
  • Since both sides look the same, it may be helpful to mark the RS.
  • Notations: Since I'm lazy, I will use the following abbreviations - please note that this refers to the current knitting direction, i.e. on RS M2+1 is a different stitch than on WS. 
    • "k to M2+1" means: nit to M2 and then k1 
    • "k to M2-4" means: knit to four stitches before M2

Instructions

CO52
Set-up row: k6 pm (this marker will be called M5) k10 pm (this marker will be called M4) k10 pm  (this marker will be called M3) k10 pm  (this marker will be called M2) k10 pm  (this marker will be called M1) k6

Row 1: (RS) k all stitches
Row 2: (WS) k to M4, t+p
  (RS) k to end
  (WS) k to M4-2, t+p
  (RS) k to end
  (WS) k to M4-4, t+p
  (RS) k to end
  (WS) k to M4-6, t+p
  (RS) k to end
  (WS) k to M4-8, t+p
  (RS) k to end
  (WS) k to M5 (i.e. k M4-10), t+p
  (RS) k to end;

  (WS) k to M2, t+p
  (RS) k10 (i.e. k to M3+1) t+p
  (WS) k8 (i.e. k to M2-2) t+p
  (RS) k10 (i.e. k to M3+3) t+p
  (WS) k8 (i.e. k to M2-4) t+p
  (RS) k10 (i.e. k to M3+5) t+p
  (WS) k8 (i.e. k to M2-6) t+p
  (RS) k10 (i.e. k to M3+7) t+p
  (WS) k8 (i.e. k to M2-8) t+p
  (RS) k10 (i.e. k to M3+9) t+p
  (WS) k8 (i.e. k to M2-10 = M3) t+p
  (RS) k10 (i.3. k to M3+11 = M4+1) t+p

  (WS) k to end
  (RS) k to M1+1, t+p
  (WS) k to end
  (RS) k to M1+3, t+p
  (WS) k to end
  (RS) k to M1+5, t+p
  (WS) k to end
  (RS) k to M1+7, t+p
  (WS) k to end
  (RS) k to M1+9, t+p
  (WS) k to end
  (RS) k to M1+11 (i.e. to M2+1), t+p
  (WS) k to end;



Row 3: (RS) k all stitches as elongated stitches
Row 4: (WS) k all stitches dropping all additonal wraps


Row 5: (RS) k to M3+1, t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M2), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. k to M3-1), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M2+2), t+p
  (RS) k8, (i.e. to M3-3), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M2+4), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. to M3-5), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M2+6), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. to M3-7), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M2+8), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. k to M3-9), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M2+10 = M1), t+p

  (RS) k to M5+1, t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M4), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. to M5-1), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M4+2), t+p
  (RS) k8, (i.e. k to M5-3), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M4+4), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. to M5-5), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M4+6), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. to M5-7), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M4+8), t+p
  (RS) k8 (i.e. k to M5-9), t+p
  (WS) k10 (i.e. k to M4+10 = M3), t+p
  (RS) k to end

Row 6: (WS) k all stitches

Row 7 = Row 3
Row 8 = Row 4

Repeat rows 1 to 8 until you run out of yarn or until your scarf is long enough. To make both ends look alike, end with rows 1 and 2; then BO loosely.

Weave in ends and block.


Wellengang Schal

Für diesen schmalen Schal braucht man etwa ein 100-Gramm-Knäuel Garn in Sockenwoll-Stärke (4-fach).

Er ist einfach zu stricken, denn das Muster besteht aus nur acht Reihen und fast nur aus rechten Maschen; die Wellenform wird mit verkürzten Reihen erzeugt; dazwischen werden langezogene Maschen gestrickt (auch Fallmaschen genannt).

This pattern is also available in English. Eine englische Version gibt es hier.



Creative Commons Lizenzvertrag
Dieses Werk von Kntting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.



Material 
  • 100g Garn in Sockenwollstärke (4-fach oder "fingering weight) 
  • 3.75mm Stricknadeln (3.5mm oder 4mm Nadeln tun es aber auch) 
  • 5 Maschenmarkierer 
  • Nähnadel, um die Fadenenden zu vernähen


Techniken und Notation

  • Verkürzte Reihen mit Doppelmasche: Man strickt bis zu der in der Anleitung angegebenen Masche und dreht die Arbeit. Das Garn liegt jetzt vor der Arbeit. Mit der rechten Nadel wird in die letzte Masche wie zum linksstricken eingestoche und das Garn wird dabei vollständig nach hinten gezogen, so dass es auf der Nadel wie doppelt aussieht (daher "Doppelmasche"). Eine sehr gute Erläuterung dieser Technik mit Fotos gibt es hier: http://alpistrickbuch.blogspot.ch/2009/09/verkurzte-reihen.html.
    Diese beiden Videos zeigen verkürzte Reihen mit Doppelmasche: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-cVsSgT-E4 und http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDN4zGqjBf0
    In der Anleitung wird dafür jeweils die Abkürzung d+z (drehen und ziehen) verwendet. Die dabei entstehende Doppelmasche wird in der Folgereihe nicht gezählt.
  • Fallmaschen (oder langezogene Maschen): Fallmaschen werden durch zusätzliche Umschläge gebildet, die in der nächsten Reihe wieder fallen gelassen werden. Für diesen Schal habe ich jeweils zwei Umschläge zwischen den Maschen gemacht.
    Ein Tutorial dazu findet sich hier: http://alpistrickbuch.blogspot.ch/2009/11/fallmaschen.html
    Die Methode wird in diesem Video gezeigt. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqcnTlwYzTQ
  • Da beide Seiten gleich aussehen, ist es hilfreich, die vordere Seite zu markieren.
  • Hier noch ein paar Abkürzungen, die in der Anleitung verwendet werden: 
    • "re M bis M1+x" bedeutet, dass man bis M1 und dann noch x Maschen stricken soll 
    • "re M bis M1-x" bedeutet, dass man bis x Maschen vor M1 stricken soll 
    • HR: Hinreihe 
    • RR: Rückreihe


Anleitung

52 Maschen anschlagen
Reihe 0: 6 M re, Maschenmarkierer einsetzen (dieser wird im folgenden M5 genannt), 10 M re, Maschenmarkierer einsetzen (-> M4), 10 M re, Maschenmarkierer einsetzen (-> M3), 10 M re, Maschenmarkierer einsetzen (-> M2), 10 M re, Maschenmarkierer einsetzen (-> M1), 6 M re

Reihe 1: (HR) alle M re
Reihe 2: (RR) re bis M4, d+z (d.h. die Arbeit drehen und eine Doppelmasche machen)
     (HR) re M bis zum Ende
     (RR) re M bis M4-2, d+z
     (HR) re M bis zum Ende
     (RR) re M bis  M4-4, d+z
     (HR) re M bis Ende
     (RR) re M bis M4-6, d+z
     (HR) re M bis Ende
     (RR) re M bis M4-8, d+z
     (HR) re M bis Ende
     (RR) re M bis M5 (bzw. bis M4-10), d+z
     (HR) re M bis Ende;

     (RR) re M bis M2, d+z
     (HR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M3+1), d+z
     (RR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M2-2), d+z
     (HR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M3+3), d+z
     (RR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis  M2-4), d+z
     (HR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M3+5) d+z
     (RR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M2-6) d+z
     (HR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M3+7) d+z
     (RR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis  M2-8) d+z
     (HR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M3+9) d+z
     (RR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis  M2-10 = M3) d+z
     (HR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M3+11 = M4+1) d+z

     (RR) re M bis Ende
     (HR) re M bis M1+1, d+z
     (RR) re M bis Ende
     (HR) re M bis M1+3, d+z
     (RR) re M bis Ende
     (HR) re M bis M1+5, d+z
     (RR) re M bis Ende
     (HR) re M bis M1+7, d+z
     (RR) re M bis Ende
     (HR) re M bis M1+9, d+z
     (RR) re M bis Ende
     (HR) re M bis M1+11 (i.e. to M2+1), d+z
     (RR) re M bis Ende;



Reihe 3: (HR) alle M re stricken und zwischen den Maschen jeweils zwei zusätzliche Umschläge
Reihe 4: (RR) alle M re und dabei die zusätzlichen Umschläge fallen lassen.



Reihe 5: (HR) re M bis M3+1, d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M2), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M3-1), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M2+2), t+p
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M3-3), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M2+4), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bisM3-5), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bisM2+6), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bisM3-7), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bisM2+8), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bisM3-9), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M2+10 = M1), d+z

  (HR) re M bis M5+1, d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M4), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M5-1), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M4+2), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M5-3), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M4+4), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M5-5), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M4+6), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M5-7), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M4+8), d+z
  (HR) 8 re M (bzw. re M bis M5-9), d+z
  (RR) 10 re M (bzw. re M bis M4+10 = M3), d+z
  (HR) re M bis zum Reihenende

Reihe 6: (RR) alle M re

Reihe 7 = Reihe 3
Reihe 8 = Reihe 4

Den Musterrapport (Reihen 1 bis 8) so lange wiederholen bis der Schal lang genug ist oder die Wolle zu Ende geht. Damit beide Enden des Schals gleich aussehen, sollte man mit den Reihen 1 und 2 enden und anschliessend lose abketten.


Sonntag, 20. Juli 2014

Summer Scarf

What if ... I combined short rows with drop stitches ... this scarf idea looks promising.

Freitag, 11. Juli 2014

Corinne Cardigan

Quite proud that I finished my Corinne cardigan - pattern from knitty.com. I love that I found buttons that match perfectly.


Sonntag, 22. Juni 2014

Another Short Row Interpretation

I've always wanted to knit the beautiful Summit shawl by Mandy Harrington. I've tried it a few years ago when I rediscovered knitting, but at that time my attempts looked rather sad and were soon frogged. But I still kept the pattern in my queue, because I'm still planning to knit it one time.

Curiously enough, I never thought of it as a short row pattern - even though I do like short rows very much. That changed when I saw a wonderful picture on Pinterest to the machine knitting blog alessandrina.com. In her post "Wisteria 2" she explains a similar pattern (for machine knitting) in terms of short rows.

That got me thinking - especially since I was looking for ideas how to use the sock yarn that I bought last week ... and eventually I started a crescent scarf with short row "holes" (i.e. non-wrapped short rows).


As always, I'm not sure whether it the effect (shape, topology and yarn) will work, but I'll continue for a bit.

Mittwoch, 18. Juni 2014

Starburst Mitts

Knitted flat these mitts use short rows to form a circle around the thumb.
When I first knitted the Circle Mitts, I thought that it might be a good idea to knit something similar but at right angles to them – while the Circle Mitts are knitted around the circumference, the mitts described here are knitted along the radius.



Creative Commons License
This work by Kntting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



The finished mitts measure about 16 cm in circumference (around the wrists) and 18 cm high. (Gauge in garter stitch: 6 stitches and 14 rows/7ridges = 1 inch)

Materials:
  • 35 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 3mm knitting needles
  • 4 stitch marker (2 of which safety pins of similar)
  • tapestry needle (for grafting and to weave in ends)

Techniques:
  • Short Rows: Short rows are one of my favorite knitting techniques because they not only allow you to shape your knitting but also to created interesting graphical pattern. There are several techniques for short rows – and it’s a matter of taste which one you prefer. I’ve recently learned a technique called German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
  • Provisional Cast-On: This method of cast-on usually uses some waste yarn that can be remove later to get live stitches, these stitches can either be used to continue knitting in the opposite direction or to graft these stitches to the rest of your piece. My favourite method is the one using a crochet hook (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeExgbgTOgs). The first time you use your working yarn, will be called row 0 in this pattern.
    There are other methods as well. E.g. the one explained in knitty (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html). If you use this method, you don’t need to knit the row number 0, because you already have your first row of stitches in working yarn.
  • Grafting: Grafting (also called kitchener stitch) is a great way to finish garments without a visible seam (If you want to know more about grafting – it’s different stitches and mechanics – you should read the “5 Grafting Myths”-series by Joni Coniglio on knittingdaily.com).
    To finish these mitts you need to be able to graft both in stockinette and in garter stitch.
    • Grafting in stockinette (and here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/grafting-garter-kitchener-stitch):
      Set-up stitch:
      - front needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
      - back needle: insert knitwise and leave stitch on needle;
      Then repeat the following actions:
      - front needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
      - back needle: insert purlwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle knitwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
    • Grafting in garter stitch (and here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique: www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/grafting-garter-kitchener-stitch):
      Set-up stitch:
      - front needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
      - back needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
      Then repeat the following actions:
      - front needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
      - back needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)

  • Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, slip the last stitch and insert the right needle in a loop from the opposite side, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk); this will be called ssk+c (ssk and connect) in this pattern - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q
    Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row in section F and G and sew the two sides together afterwards.


General Construction:
The mitts are knitted flat in eight sections (from A to H).
The diagram shows how  shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there are in between the edge and M1, as well as how the stitch count changes.
It also shows the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting section F and G).
Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an increase in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.


Instructions:
Provisional CO22 stitches
Row 0: k6 pm (-> this marker will be called M2), k4 pm (-> this marker will be called M1), k12

Section A
Ridge 1: sl1, k to end, turn; sl1 p5, k to end
Ridge 2: sl1, k10, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end

Ridge 4: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 5: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 6: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 7: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 8: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 9: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 10: sl1, k9,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 11: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 12: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 13: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 14: sl1, k to M2, p to end, turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 15: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 16: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 17: sl1, k2,  t+p, k to end
Place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles ("marker A")

Section B

Ridge 18: sl1, k to end, turn; sl1 p5, k to end
Ridge 19: sl1, k2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 20: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 21: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 22: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 23: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 24: sl1, k13,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 25: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 26: sl1, k9,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 27: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 28: sl1, k5,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 29: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 30: sl1, k11,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 31: sl1, k to M2, p6, turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 32: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 33: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to end

Section C
Ridge 34: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1 p5, k to end
Ridge 35: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 36: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 37: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 38: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 39: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 40: sl1, k14,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 41: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 42: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 43: sl1, k13,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 44: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 45: sl1, k to M2, p6; turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 46: sl1, k7, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 47: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 48: sl1, k16,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 49: sl1, k5,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 50: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 51: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 52: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 53: sl1, k18,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 54: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 55: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1 p5, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 56: sl1, k3,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 57: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles (marker C)

Section D
Ridge 58: sl1, k to M2, p6, turn; sl1 k to end
Ridge 59: sl1, k2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 60: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 61: sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 62: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 63: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 64: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 65: sl1, k13, t+p, k to end
Ridge 66: sl1, k9, t+p, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k
Ridge 67: sl1, k19,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 68: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 69: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 70: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 71: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 72: sl1, k11,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 73: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 74: sl1, k16,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 75: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to end
The photo shows how the mitt should look after finishing section D.

Section E (= Section D backwards)
Ridge 76: sl1, k to M2, p6; turn, sl1 k to end
Ridge 77: sl1, k16, t+p, k to end
Ridge 78: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 79: sl1, k11, t+p, k to end
Ridge 80: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 81: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 82: sl1, k12, t+p, k to end
Ridge 83: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 84: sl1, k19, t+p, k to end
Ridge 85: sl1, k9, t+p, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k
Ridge 86: sl1, k13, t+p, k to end
Ridge 87: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 88: sl1, k to M2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 89: sl1, k15, t+p, k to end
Ridge 90: sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 91: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 92: sl1, k2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 93: sl1, k to end, turn; sl1, p5, k to end

Section F (= Section C backwards)
During section F, you will attach the last stitch of each ridge with an edge stitch of section C (and during section G with and edge stitch of section B). For this you need to fold the mitt along the folding line and attach the sides as you go along - as explained above in "Techniques".
The picture on the right shows how the mitt looks after you have knitted a few rows of section F when you connect the halves as you go.

Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row of section F and G; and sew the two edges together afterwards.

Ridge 94: sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 95: sl1, k3, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of ridge 56, i.e. one below stitch marker C) - the abbreviation ssk+c is explained above in "Techniques"
Ridge 96: sl1, k to M2, p to end; turn; sl1, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of ridge 55)
Ridge 97: sl1 k8, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of ridge 54
Ridge 98: sl1, k18, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 99: sl, k7, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 100: sl1, k10, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 101: sl1,  k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 102: sl1, k5,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 103: sl1, k16, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 104: sl1, k12, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 105: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 106: sl1, k to M2 , t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 107: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 108: sl1, k13,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 109: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 110: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 111: sl1, k14,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 112: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 113: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 114: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 115: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 116: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 117: sl1, k to M2, p6; turn; k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)

Section G (= Section B backwards)
Ridge 118: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 119: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 120: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 121:  sl1, k11,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 122:  sl1, k8,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 123:  sl1, k5,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 124:  sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 125:  sl1, k9,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 126:  sl1, k8,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 127:  sl1, k13,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 128:  sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 129:  sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 130:  sl1, k4,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 131:  sl1, k6,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 132:  sl1, k2,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 133:  sl1, k to M2, p6; turn; sl1 k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
(Now the side seam is finished.)

Section H (= Section A backwards)
Ridge 134:  sl1, k2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 135:  sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 136:  sl1, k4, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, k
Ridge 137:  sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to end
Ridge 138:  sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 139:  sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 140:  sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 141:  sl1, k9, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, k
Ridge 142:  sl1, k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 143:  sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 144:  sl1, k12, t+p, k to end
Ridge 145:  sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 146:  sl1, k to M2, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, k
Ridge 147:  sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 148:  sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 149:  sl1, k10, t+p, k to end

Finishing
Cut yarn but leave a tail of about 50 cm. Take out your scrap yarn of the provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a knitting needle. Graft in garter stitch till M2, then finish grafting in stockinette stitch. Make sure to treat the double-stitch as one stitch.
If you haven't connected the edges during sections F and G, sew sides together.
Weave in ends.

Make two.