Sonntag, 25. Januar 2015

How to Use Yarn Leftovers

A while ago I had the idea to construct fingerless gloves from leftovers. I got a selection of fingering weight yarns in reddish colours - plus some grey and white to show off the red.


These mitts are constructed from stripes that are joined in the round contrasted with parts that are knitted in the round. I like the idea of knitting in different directions :)
I guess there will be five or four parts to make up one mitt, i.e. currently they aren't even half done ... but the idea is worth pursuing ... and I will probably write a tutorial.

Freitag, 23. Januar 2015

Links from Italy

Spam folders can be cruel. I only just found out that some of my patterns were being linked from a yarn store site in Italy. They had sent me an e-mail, that was stuck in my spam folder for a few days.


They have linked to two of my designs - Circle Mitts (or Guanti ai ferri Circle) and Helix Mitts (or Guanti ai ferri Helix) - and I do like the way they write about my designs ... very flattering :)

Sonntag, 11. Januar 2015

Queen of Diamonds Scarf

This scarf is an example of modular knitting. It's made out of diamond-shaped modules form a longish rhomboid. To add a little spice there is a hole in the middle of each diamond.

As with most examples of modular knitting, it's a great way to show off variegated yarn.

Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • 140 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 3.25mm needles
  • 11 sts markers
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations and Special Stitches
  • open6 = k1 slip sts back to left hand needle and pass the next 6 sts over it, yo twice, k1
  • close6 = slip one yo off the needle, into the remaining yo do: k1 yo k1 yo k1 k1tbl
  • Short rows with double stitches (German short rows, t+p): when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
  • Knitted Cast-On: http://youtu.be/IzVy8fRfOw0
  • Stretchy Bind-Off: http://youtu.be/cGHItYwr1us

Construction

The scarf is knitted in diamond-shaped modules. Picture 1 shows the construction of the scarf and how the diamonds add up to form a parallelogram - the yellow arrows indicate the order in which the diamonds are knitted. (Click on the picture to enlarge it.)

Picture 1: Construction of Queen of Diamonds Scarf

All diamonds marked with "n" (normal diamonds) are knitted as follows:
R1: k25 t+p
R2: k23 t+p
R3: k21 t+p
R4: k19 t+p
R5: k17 t+p
R6: k15 t+p
R7: k13 t+p
R8: k11 t+p
R9: k1 open6 k1
R10: k1 close6 k3
R11: k11 t+p
R12: k13 t+p
R13: k15 t+p
R14: k17 t+p
R15: k19 t+p
R16: k21 t+p
R17: k23 t+p -> don't turn, but start next diamond

Picture 2 shows a diagram of how one diamond is knitted. The pattern is written in a way that stitch markers are not necessary, but I found it helpful to use them anyway to see easily where the boundaries and the middle of the current diamond are.
Please note that in row 9 - when starting the hole - the stitch marker has to be removed and in row 10 - when the hole is closed - it has to be placed again.

Picture 2: How to knit one Diamond

Depending on where you are in the knitting process, the directions for the first and last rows might be slightly different, i.e. they are variations of the diamonds marked with "n". These diamonds are marked with numbers.


Instructions

The numbers in brackets refer to the numbers in circles in picture 1.

Layer 1
Diamond (1):
CO 24 with a knitted cast-on
Row 1: k24
Row 2: sl k22 t+p
knit rows 3-17 of normal (n)-diamond

Layer 2
Diamond (2):
CO12 with knitted cast-on,
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond

Diamond (3):
k12, CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond

Layer 3
Diamond (4):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond

Knit one (n)-diamond

Diamond (5):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond

Layer 4
Knit a diamond (2)
Knit two (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (3)

Layer 5
Knit a diamond (4)
Knit three (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (5)

Layer 6
Knit a diamond (2)
Knit four (n)-diamonds

Diamond (6):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12

Layer 7
Diamond (7):
Row 1: k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12, k12

Knit four (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (5)

Layer 8
Knit a diamond (2)
Knit four (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (8)

Repeat Layers 7 and 8 until your scarf feels long enough - except for the end.

Layer 9
Knit a diamond (7)
Knit four (n)-diamonds

Diamond (9):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12

Layer 10
Diamond (10):
Knit rows 1-16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12, k12

Knit three (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (8)

Layer 11
Knit a diamond (7)
Knit two (n)-diamonds



Diamond (11)
Knit rows 1 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12

Layer 12
Knit a diamond (10)
Knit one (n)-diamond
Knit a diamond (8)

Layer 13
Knit a diamond (7)
Knit a diamond (11)

Layer 14
Diamond (12)
Knit rows 1-16 of normal (n)-diamond
BO all stitches

Weave in ends and block.

Sonntag, 28. Dezember 2014

Focussed ...

Over christmas I usually have a lot of spare time to try out some new stuff. This year I thought it'd be interesting to knit a pair of mitts starting from one focussing point around the edge of the hand ... a bit like Circle Mitts - just starting at the opposite side.

Here's the first one I came up with. However, I didn't like the finishing, i.e. the upper edge and the shape of the thumb.


That's why I started anew - this time with a better idea on how to knit the upper edge and the thumb. I also tried to make them a bit asymmetrical, i.e. placing the starting point a bit more on the back of the hand.


I like this version better, but I guess I'll need to knit another pair (in a nice yarn) to be able to write up a pattern and to get decent pictures.

Donnerstag, 11. Dezember 2014

Double Helix Mitts

After finishing the Helix Mitts, I played bit further with the idea ... and came up with mitts formed of two strips winding up the hands ...

When knitting these, you take turns in knitting with color A and with color B - that's why you need three needles to knit them. As with the Helix Mitts, the strips are joined as you knit, so no sewing is required.

For most female hands, you need less than 15 grams of fingering weight yarn for each color (i.e. a total of 30 grams) – therefore it’s a great pattern to use up leftovers of nice sock yarn. I used some leftover Lang Sansibar contrasted with some beige Alpaca yarn.

Materials
  • a total of about 30 grams of sport weight yarn (5-ply) in two colors
  • three knitting needles (3mm) - I used short dpns
  • about 14 removable stitch markers or safety pins


Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Abbreviations and Special Techniques
  • Joining to rows at the edges: There are various ways to connect the last stitch of one ridge to the first stitch of another. I used the following ones:
    For the first mitt, I'd knit to the last stitch of the RS row slip it knitwise, pick up the front leg of the edge stitch, then insert the left hand needle as for a slip-slip knit and knit the two loops together. On the back row I'd slip the first stitch and knit to the end.
    Since the mitts are mirror inverted, they coil in the opposite direction. This meant that I had to do the join from the WS, like that. I'd knit to the last stitch and slip it as if to purl through the back loop (ptbl) with yarn in front, turn your work; pick up a leg of the edge stitch you want to join to and do a k2tog of this and the stitch you just turned.
    However, there are other methods to join rows at the edges, one method is shown here: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q . Please note that whatever you do, please stay consistent throughout one mitt.
  • German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also http://youtu.be/PsBkXPmjgaE); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).

"Gauge" – or what you should check beforehand
Measure the circumference of your wrists – loosely. If 36 rows (i.e. 18 garter stitch ridges) measure more than half of this circumference – the mitts will be too wide for you.
If – as me – you don’t like to knit a swatch, you can alternatively knit the first piece (i.e. the beginning of Round 1 – Color A) to check if it fits.


Instructions

The instructions are given in rounds or levels, i.e. layers of garter strip stitches – one layer per color. Ends of levels, i.e. the last rows of each round, are marked with stitch markers or safety pins.

First Mitt

Level 1 – Color A:
CO2
R0: k2
R1: k1 mk1 k1
R2 – R6: sl1, k1
R7: sl1, kfb, k to end
R8 – R12: sl, k to end
Repeat R7 to R12 four more times, you should have 8 stitches on your needle. The piece should look like a triangle.

If the piece is shorter than half of the
circumference of your wrists, go on with R11 and R12 until you have reached the desired length (i.e. half the circumference of your wrist).
Mark the last row (this marker will be called: Level-1-A-Marker - see picture on the right to see how the markers are placed)

Level 1 – Color B:
With yarn B and a new needle (and as yet complete unattached to the piece you just knitted)
Knit the same piece in color B.
Mark the last row (this marker will be called: Level-1-B-Marker)

Level 2 – Color A:
Now the last stitch of a color A row is connected to the first stich of a color B row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Level 2 – Color B:
Fold the connected strip backwards (see illustration no. 1) so that you can connect the next row of the color B-triangle to the first row of the color A-triangle.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.
Illustrations 1, 2, 3 and 4

Now finish round 2 in colors A and B – taking turns to knit. (You don't have to finish a layer of one color before switching to the other one. You can switch anytime inbetween as long as you use the markers.)
When you connect a row to a row with a marker, mark this row (the markers will be called Level-2-A-Marker and Level-2-B-Marker respectively)

Level 3 – Color A
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-2-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-3-A-Marker)

Level 3 – Color B
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-2-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-3-B-Marker)

Level 4 – Color A
The following short row sequence serves to wide the mitts and to create a thumb gusset. (One garter stitch ridge equals two rows).
Ridge 1 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 2: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 4 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 5: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 6 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 7 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 8: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 9 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 10 = SR1, SR2
Place a marker (this will be called Thumb-End-Marker-A)
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-3-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-4-A-Marker)

Level 4 – Color B
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-3-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-4-B-Marker)

Level 5 – Color A
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-4-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-5-A-Marker)

Level 5 – Color B
Now the thumb gusset will be widened a bit more with some short rows.
Ridge 1 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 2 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 3: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 4 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 5 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 6: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 7 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 8 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 9: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 10 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 11 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 12: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 13 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 14 = SR1, SR2
Place a marker (this will be called Thumb-End-Marker-B) - illustration no. 3 shows how the piece should look now.
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-4-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-5-B-Marker)

Level 6 – Color A
R1: sl1, k to end (do NOT attach the last stitch to the level below)
R2: sl1, k to end
Repeat R1 and R2 five more times.
Try it on and see if the unattached strip fits over your thumb to reach Thumb-End-Marker-B (see illustration no. 4). If it’s too short repeat R1 and R2 once more.
Knit SR1, but attach the last stitch to the first stitch of the row marked with Thumb-End-Marker-B.
Knit SR2.
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-5-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-6-A-Marker)

Level 6 – Color B
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-5-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-6-B-Marker)

Level 7 – Colors A and B
R1 = SR1
R2 = SR2
R3 = SR1
R4: sl1, k2tog, k to end
R5 = SR1
R6 = SR2
Repeat R1 to R6 until there are 3 sts left.

R7 = SR1
R8 = SR2
R9 = SR1
R10: sl1, k2tog, k to end
R11: SR1
R12: ssk, cut yarn and draw through loop


2nd Mitt

There are two differences that make the mitts mirror-images of one another:
a) the knitted strip is folded differently when first connecting the rows
b) the connection is done differently (i.e. standard rows 1 and 2 are different, as described below).

Knit level 1 (colors A and B) as for 1st mitt.

Level 2 - Color A
Now the last stitch of a color A row is connected to the first stich of a color B row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch wyif as if to do a ptbl
Standard Row 2 (SR2): pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Level 2 – Color B
Fold the connected strip forwards (i.e. in the opposite direction as for the first mitt, see illustration no. 2) so that you can connect the next row of the color B-triangle to the first row of the color A-triangle.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Now finish round 2 in colors A and B – taking turns to knit.
When you connect a row to a row with a marker, mark this row (the markers will be called Level-2-A-Marker and Level-2-B-Marker respectively)

Knit levels 3 to 6 (in both colors) as for 1st mitt.

Level 7 – Colors A and B
R1 = SR1
R2 = SR2
R3 = SR1
R4: pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k2tog, k to end
R5 = SR1
R6 = SR2
Repeat R1 to R6 until there are 3 sts left.

R7 = SR1
R8 = SR2
R9 = SR1
R10: pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k2tog, k to end
R11: sl1, sl1 as if to ptbl
R12: pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), cut yarn and draw through loop

Before you weave in the ends, turn the mitts inside out and decide which side you like best. The picture on the right shows the difference - one knit has been turned inside out and you can see that the connection looks different. After you have decided, weave in ends.




Samstag, 29. November 2014

Helix Mitts

These mitts basically consist of a 10-stitch wide strip that winds around the wrists and hands. The strip is attached as you work, so no sewing is required.
They are all in garter stitch and a nice way to show of variegated yarn.

Left-hand and right-hand mitt are mirror inverted, so the directions are slightly different.



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials
  • about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 3mm needles (since the knitting is 10 stitches at the widest point, I used short dpns)
  • about 14 safety pins to mark rows
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends


Abbreviations and Special Techniques
  • Joining to rows at the edges: There are various ways to connect the last stitch of one ridge to the first stitch of another. I used the following ones:
    For the first mitt, I'd knit to the last stitch of the RS row slip it knitwise, pick up the front leg of the edge stitch, then insert the left hand needle as for a slip-slip knit and knit the two loops together. On the back row I'd slip the first stitch and knit to the end.
    Since the mitts are mirror inverted, they coil in the opposite direction. This meant that I had to do the join from the WS, like that. I'd knit to the last stitch and slip it as if to purl through the back loop (ptbl) with yarn in front, turn your work; pick up a leg of the edge stitch you want to join to and do a k2tog of this and the stitch you just turned.

    However, there are other methods to join rows at the edges, one method is shown here: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q . Please note that whatever you do, please stay consistent throughout one mitt.
     
  • German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also http://youtu.be/PsBkXPmjgaE); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).

Instructions

First Mitt

Round 1:
CO2
R0: k2
R1: sl1 k1
R2: sl1, kfb
R3-R5: sl1, k to end
R6: sl1, kfb, k to end
R7-R9: sl1, k to end
Repeat rows 6 to 9 until there are 10 sts on your needles
Mark that row (this marker will be called Mid-Row-Marker-1)

Now repeat rows 8 and 9 until the strip fits around your wrist.
Mark the last row (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-1)

Round 2:
Fold the strip backwards (see picture on the right) so that you can connect the next row to the edge stitch of the very first row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these rows until you reach the ridge marked with Mid-Row-Marker-1, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Mid-Round-Marker-2)

Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Start-Round-Marker-1, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-2)

Round 3:
Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Mid-Round-Marker-2, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Mid-Row-Marker-3, it will also mark the beginning of the thumb increases).
The picture below shows some of the markers and their position on the mitt.

The following short row sequence serves to wide the mitts and to create a thumb gusset.
Thumb Row 1 = SR1
Thumb Row 2 = SR2
Thumb Row 3: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 4: k to end
Thumb Row 5 = SR1
Thumb Row 6 = SR2
Thumb Row 7: sl1, k7, t+p
Thumb Row 8: k to end
Thumb Row 9 = SR1
Thumb Row 10 = SR2
Thumb Row 11: sl1, k6, t+p
Thumb Row 12: k to end
Thumb Row 13 = SR1
Thumb Row 14 = SR2
Thumb Row 15: sl, k5, t+p
Thumb Row 16: k to end
Thumb Row 17 = SR1
Thumb Row 18 = SR2
Thumb Row 19: sl1, k6, t+p
Thumb Row 20: k to end
Thumb Row 21 = SR1
Thumb Row 22 = SR2
Thumb Row 23: sl1, k7, t+p
Thumb Row 24: k to end
Thumb Row 25 = SR1
Thumb Row 26 = SR2
Thumb Row 27: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 28: k to end
Thumb Row 29 = SR1
Thumb Row 30 = SR2
Mark this row (this marker will be called Thumb-End-Marker-1).

Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Start-Round-Marker-2, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-3)

Round 4:
Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Mid-Round-Marker-3, and mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Mid-Round-Marker-4)

Now the thumb gusset will be widened a bit more with some short rows.
Thumb Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 = SR1
Thumb Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 = SR2
Thumb Row 11: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 12: k to end
Thumb Rows 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 = SR1
Thumb Rows 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 = SR2
Thumb Row 23: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 24: k to end
Thumb Rows 25, 27, 29, 31, 33  = SR1
Thumb Rows 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 = SR2
Mark the last row, this marker will be called Thumb-End-Marker-2.

Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Start-Round-Marker-3, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-4)

Round 5:
Knit SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked with Mid-Round Marker-4.

Knit 6 ridges that are not connected to the round below:
Unattached Row 1: sl1, k to end
Unattached Row 2: sl1, k to end
(Repeated a total of 6 times)

Try the mitt on and try how it fits if the last knitted row were attached to the row marked with Thumb-End-Marker-2. If it feels to tight, knit one or two more unattached ridges.

Attach the next row to the row below Thumb-End-Marker-2

Knit SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked with Start-Round-Marker-4.
Row 1 = SR1
Row 2 = SR2
Row 3 =  sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Row 4 = sl1, ssk, k to end
Row 5 = SR1
Row 6 = SR2
Repeat rows 1 to 6 until there are only two stitches left
Last row: slip these two stitches knitwise (as if to do a k2tog), pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle the three loops on the needle and knit.
Cut yarn.


Second Mitt
There are tow differences that make the mitts mirror-images of one another:
a) the knitted strip is folded differently when first connecting the rows
b) the connection is done differently (i.e. standard rows 1 and 2 are different, as described below).


Knit Round 1 as for first mitt.

Round 2:
Fold the strip forwards (i.e. in the different direction than for first mitt) so that you can connect the next row to the edge stitch of the very first row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch wyif as if to do a ptbl
Standard Row 2 (SR2): pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k to end
Repeat these rows until you reach the row marked with Mid-Row-Marker-1, mark this row (this marker will be called Mid-Row-Marker-2)

Continue round 2 and knit Round 3 and Round 4 as for the first mitt.

Round 5:
Knit as for first mitt until you reach Start-Round-Marker-4.
Row 1 = SR1
Row 2 = SR2
Row 3 = sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch wyif as if to do a ptbl
Row 4 = pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), ssk, k to end
Row 5 = SR1
Row 6 = SR2
Repeat rows 1 to 6 until there are only two stitches left
Next-to-last row: sl1, sl1 as if to do a ptbl
Last row: pick up edge stitch, k3tog
Cut yarn.

Before you weave in the ends, turn the mitts inside out and decide which side you like best. Then weave in ends.






Sonntag, 16. November 2014

Bandages ...

... or rather fingerless gloves that are knitted in a narrow strip that winds itself around the hands. I'm not sure whether the shape is perfect, but at least it works in principle.