Donnerstag, 21. Januar 2016

Patterns with a Knitting and Crochet Version

I really like designing fingerless gloves that have a bit of a special construction, e.g. started from the thumb or worked flat. They are all quite interesting for using up self-striping yarn. For some of these I have written both knitting and crochet versions - i.e. I have copied myself :)
Here's a list of these patterns.

U-Turn Mitts
These mitts are started with a magic cast on at the edge of the hand - and then forming a U shape around this cast on.
They mitts are worked flat - except for the thumb which is worked in the round.
The U-Turn mitts (crochet) were the first crochet pattern I ever published. Somebody's comment gave me the idea of trying to work out one of my patterns in crochet in the first place.

U-Turn Mitts (knit version)
U-Turn Mitts (crochet version)




Circle Mitts & Kreisel Fingerless Gloves
These mitts are started at the thumb and then grow in circle shape around it. When the mitt is big enough to fit around the hands, the sides are joined at the edge of the hand and the mitt is finished with the shaft. In the knit version, you switch between knitting in the round and knitting back and forth. In the crochet version, you only knit back and forth to achieve a continuous structure.

Circle Mitts (knit version)
Kreisel Fingerless Gloves (crochet version)



Pieces of Eight / Octavo
These mitts are also started at the thumb. Then the eight shape is worked - and finally the mitt is "widened" by back and forth rows. These mitts are a bit of a topological challenge, but the effect is quite beautiful.

Pieces of Eight Mitts (knit version)
Octavo Fingerless Gloves (crochet version)






Starburst / Sparkler
These mitts are worked flat. The shaping is achieved with short rows, which means that in the end there are more rows at the edges and less rows at the thumb.

Starburst Mitts (knit version)
Sparkler Mitts (crochet version)

Freitag, 15. Januar 2016

Barton Cottage Wrist Warmers

I've recently been rereading some Jane Austen novels - I especially like "Sense and Sensibility". That's what inspired me to knit a pair of long wrist warmers - they might be useful during a cold winter in a Devonshire cottage.
Of course, they are useful in modern times as well. Especially, if you work in a draughty office :)



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials
  • about 170 meters of fingering weight yarn; I used exactly one skein of Lang Baby Alpaca
  • 3mm needles - I used dpns, but you can use circulars, too, if you prefer the magic loop method
  • a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge and Measurements
A finished wrist warmer measures 19 cm in circumference at the top (near the wrists) and 24 cm at the bottom (near the elbow). Its lenght is about 1 cm. 
In stockinette stitch 5 sts/8 rows equaled 2 cm.

Special Stitches and Abbreviations



Instructions
CO42 and join in round, place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round
Rounds 1, 2 and 3: * p3, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p1, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: * k7, p3, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p1, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Chart for rounds 1 to 18 (1st and 2nd repeat of diamond pattern)

Repeat rounds 1 to 18 once more (2nd repeat of diamond pattern)

To widen the wrist warmers there are now increases (mk1p) made in the purl channels - each time in the first row of one repeat and in turns in the first and the second purl channel of one pattern repeat, i.e. the purl sequences get wider.

(3rd repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p1 mk1p p2, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p4, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p3, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p2, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p1, k7, p3, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p2, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p3, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(4th repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p4, k1, p1  mk1p p2, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p4, k1, p4, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p3, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p2, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p1, k7, p4, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p2, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p3, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(5th repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p2, mk1p p2, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p5, k1, p4, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p4, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p3, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p2, k7, p4, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p3, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p4, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(6th repeat of diamond pattern)
Rounds 1, * p5, k1, p2  mk1p p2, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 2 and 3: * p5, k1, p5, k7 repeat from * to end
Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p4, k3, p5, k5, p1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p3, k5, p5, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p2, k7, p5, k1, p3 repeat from * to end
Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p3, k5, p5, k3, p2 repeat from * to end
Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p4, k3, p5, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Knit round 2 once and then rounds 2 to 18 of the 6th repeat. Then knit round 2 two more times and bind off loosely in pattern.

Make two.
Weave in ends.



Samstag, 9. Januar 2016

From Almendra Cowl to Zoom Out Mitts

Recently when I looked at the list of patterns on my blog's Ravelry Page I noticed that I had patterns starting with nearly every letter of the alphabet ... nearly. That made me want to complete the list ... and I finally made it in December with the Xmas Star Mitts.

I must admit that I "designed" the names of at least two patterns to have a complete set of all the letters of the alphabet (K and X were the most difficult :). But I am quite proud to have a full alphabet of free knitting and crochet patterns anyway.

Free Knitting and Crochet Patterns from Knitting and so on



This list shows several things:
  • I'm not good at naming patterns - that's why I sometimes ask for help in the knittingparadise.com forum.
  • I like "nerdy" pattern names - or names that have some engineering, geometry or sci-fi connotation. 
  • I really like hand accessories - 31 (!) of the patterns are fingerless gloves and wrist warmers.
The list also shows that currently there are 64 free patterns available on this blog.

Here's the list. Enjoy!

A
Almendra Cowl

B
Bamboo and Ruffles Wrist Warmers
Brioche in Montreux Cowl

C
Cable Experiment Mitts
Chevrons All Round Cowl (matches the Hexagon Mitts)
Circle Mitts (also available in aran weight version, in German, )

D
Data Center Mitts
Double Helix Mitts

E
Edgy Fingerless Gloves

F
Falling Blossoms Scarf
Four Strand Cable Mitts
From Pantyhose to Phone Sock

G
Garudasana Yoga Socks

H
Helga Cabled Mitts
Helix Mitts
Hexagon Mitts in Two Colors

I
Inclination Wrist Warmers

J
Jolly Waves Cowl

K
Knitted Pantyhose Scrunchy
Kreisel Fingerless Gloves

L
Little Rectangles Summer Scarf (also available in German)

M
Margarete Fingerless Gloves
Mini-Cable Fingerless Gloves
Mixed Waves Cowl
Mixed Waves Mitts
Monster Tooth Scarf

N
Nautilina Scarf
Nikko Summer Crochet Hat
Nostalgia Brioche Cowl

O
Octavo Fingerless Gloves (Crochet)
Ojos de Bruja Scarf
Onion Market Wrist Warmers
Oszilla Scarf

P
Pieces of Eight Mitts
Plain with Picots (Wrist Warmers)

Q
Queen of Diamonds Scarf

R
Random Bubbles (Scarf)
Random Lace E-Book Sleeve
Random Lace Scarf

S
Seifenblasen Lace Scarf
Serpentina Mitts
Short Wave Mitts (also available in DK weight)
Sideways Yoga Socks
Sparkler Mitts (Crochet)
Starburst Mitts
Strata Fingerless Gloves
Striped Fingerless Gloves - The first ever pattern that I published.
Stripes, Stripes and Stripes Scarf (also available in German)

T
Tarn Scrunchy (Crochet)
Through Thick and Thin Scarf (also available in German)
Tomatoes and Coffee Socks
Triangulation Wrist Warmers
Trikonasana Yoga Socks

U
U-Turn Mitts
U-Turn Mitts (Crochet Version)

V
Velvet Recycling Cowl
Vermicelli Autumn Wrap

W
Wellengang Short Row Scarf (also available in German)
Windings Mitts

X
Xmas Star Mitts

Y
Yet Another Short Row Scarf
Yoga Socks for the Lounger

Z
Zimtstern Mitts
Zoom Out Fingerless Gloves (also available in German)


Donnerstag, 7. Januar 2016

Sparkler Mitts

Stylish with an interesting construction - these crochet fingerless gloves are worked flat and use short rows to form a circle around the thumb. Because of this unusual construction, they are great to show off variegated yarn.
These mitts are the crochet version of my knitted Starburst mitts.

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Since I had some problems to find a name I asked the community of knittingparadise.com to help me come up with a name - thank you all for your great ideas. I finally settled for Sparkler - to go with the name of the knitted version of these mitts :)



Creative Commons License
This work by Kniting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • 3mm crochet hook
  • about 40 to 45 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 4 removable stitch markers
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends


Techniques and Abbreviations
Short Rows
  • connect and turn with slip stitch: join the last stitch of one row to the edge of another side: insert your hook into the last stitch of the row AND into the stitch of the part you want to connect with (called here: the other side) - see picture 1 below. Yarn over and draw yarn through two loops (picture 2 below). Then complete the sc. Do a slip stitch into the next row on the other side before starting the next row (picture 3 below).
Connect and Turn with Slip Stitch
  • join with single crochet: as shown in this YouTube video by tlcinspirations - however, in this pattern it's not used to join one side to the other, but to join the last row to the very first row.


General Construction

The mitts are worked flat in eight sections (from A to H). The diagram shows how  shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there in a full row.
It also shows the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting section F and G). Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an decrease in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.


Size and Gauge
This finished mitts measure 19cm in height - at their highest point. and about 19cm in circumference at the wrist.
11 rows of the used stitch (sctbl) equal 5 cm in height. And 12 stitches (sctbl) equal 5 cm in width.

Instructions


Section A
Chain 34 + 1 turning-chain
Ridge 1 : sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while placing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 25 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 8, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should have a total of 35 stitches


Section B
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch. tc, place marker A into the last st of that row
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc 
Ridge 3: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc 
Ridge 4: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc  
Ridge 5: sctbl 20 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 22 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 15, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 9: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 10: sctbl 8, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 11: sctbl 20 (up to and including M1), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should have a total of 28 sts
Your piece should now look similar to picture 1 of the illustration photos.

Illustration Photos
Section C
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 12, turn sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 16 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 19 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 10, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 6, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should still have a total of 28 sts

Section D
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, place marker B into the last stitch of this row, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 14, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 15 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 18 (up to M1), turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 14, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end tc
Now you should have a total of 26 sts
Your piece should now look similar to picture 2 of the illustration photos.

Ridge 9: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl to end, tc

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Section E (= section D backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 14, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 18, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 14, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl to last (while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch), fold your mitt along the folding line (right sides together) and connect last st to first st in row marked with marker B.
You should now have 28 sts.
Now your piece should look like picture 3 of the illustration photos.


Section F (= section C backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 6, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 2: sctbl 10, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 3: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 4: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 5: sctbl 16, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 6: sctbl 12, turn sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 8: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch - while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch
You should still have 28 sts.

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Section G (= section B backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 2: sctbl 8, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 3: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 4: sctbl 15, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 5: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 6: sctbl 22, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 7: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 8: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 9: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 10: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 11: sctbl to end, tc, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect (you should now connect your row to the row marked with marker A) - while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
You should now have 35 stitches.

Section H (= section A backwards … nearly)
Ridge 1: sctbl 8, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 25 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1
Ridge 5: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctlb 31, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 9: sctbl all, tc; turn, join all stitches to first row with single crochets.

Weave in ends.
Make two.

Sparkler Mitts - free crochet pattern by Knitting and so on

Oui Crochet


Donnerstag, 10. Dezember 2015

Xmas Star Mitts

Hold a star in your hands with these beautiful fingerless gloves. They are knitted all in garter stitch with a star around your thumb.

Xmas Star Mitts - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on


The mitts are basically shaped like the Starburst Mitts I published a while ago, but with added colorwork to form a star around the thumbs.

Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.







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Materials
  • a total of 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors (about 25 grams of color 1, C1, beige in the photos and about 15 grams of color 2, C2, blue in the photos)
  • 3mm knitting needles
  • 3 stitch markers (2 of which safety pins of similar)
  • tapestry needle (for grafting and to weave in ends)

Gauge / Measurements

The finished mitts measure about 16 cm in circumference (around the wrists) and 18 cm high. (Gauge in garter stitch: 6 stitches and 14 rows/7ridges = 1 inch)


Techniques
  • Short Rows (t+p): Short rows are one of my favorite knitting techniques because they not only allow you to shape your knitting but also to created interesting graphical pattern. There are several techniques for short rows – and it’s a matter of taste which one you prefer. I’ve recently learned a technique called German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
  • Provisional Cast-On: This method of cast-on usually uses some waste yarn that can be remove later to get live stitches, these stitches can either be used to continue knitting in the opposite direction or to graft these stitches to the rest of your piece. My favourite method is the one using a crochet hook (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeExgbgTOgs). The first time you use your working yarn, will be called setup row in this pattern.
    There are other methods as well. E.g. the one explained in knitty (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html). If you use this method, you don’t need to knit the setup row (14 sts of C2 and 9 sts of C1), because you already have your first row of stitches in working yarn.
  • Grafting: Grafting (also called kitchener stitch) is a great way to finish garments without a visible seam (If you want to know more about grafting – it’s different stitches and mechanics – you should read the “5 Grafting Myths”-series by Joni Coniglio on knittingdaily.com).
    To finish these mitts you need to be able to graft in garter stitch.
    • Grafting in garter stitch (and here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique: www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/grafting-garter-kitchener-stitch):
      Set-up stitch:
      - front needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
      - back needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
      Then repeat the following actions:
      - front needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
      - back needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
  • Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, slip the last stitch and insert the right needle in a loop of the edge stitch from the opposite side, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk); this will be called ssk+c (ssk and connect) in this pattern (see illustration photo 3 below) - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q.
    Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row in section F and G and sew the two sides together afterwards.
Illustration photos


General Construction

The mitts are knitted flat in eight sections (from A to H).
The diagram shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there are between the edge and M1 (inner blue circle), as well as how the stitch count changes.
It also shows where the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting sections F and G).
Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an decrease in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.


Color Charts - How to Read Them

When I started this pattern, I drew charts on squared paper because I found this much easier to work with. That's why I'm including the charts here, too.

Here's how to read the charts (example chart for sections A and H).

Example: Chart for sections A and H
  • For the first section A you work from top to bottom. For the last section H you work from bottom to top - this is indicated by the big arrows on the side.
  • One row indicates on ridge, i.e. one RS row and one WS row.
  • White squares are knit-stitches in C1. Blue squares are knit-stitches in C2. The numbers in front of the row indicate how many stitches per color are in that row - the black number gives the number of stitches for C1 and the blue number the number of stitches for C2.
  • The first stitch in every RS row is slipped to get a nice edge that can be attached to the other side easily. However, it is counted in the charts, i.e. if the chart tells you that the row begings with 7 C1 stitches, you do sl1, k6.
  • When knitting the WS row, you knit each stitch in the color that they appear on your needles, i.e. any C1 stitch is knitted with C1 and any C2 stitch is knitted with C2.
  • The blue vertical line marks the start of the thumb, i.e. the placement of the marker M1. The gray vertical dashed lines are only there as a counting aid, there are placed every five stitches from the beginning of the first row.
  • The triangles mark that there is an increase or decrease. Both increases and decreases are made just before the last stitch of the WS row. That means for increases that you knit up to the 2nd stitch before the end and then do a kfb, k1. For decreases it means that you knit up to the last 3 stitches and then do an k2tog, k1. For sections A, B, C, and D I made the increases/decreases in the ridge with the triangle - for sections E, F, G and H in the ridge below; that way the stitch numbers work out.
These explanations and the charts below are sufficient to knit the mitts. Since some people don't like to work with charts, I spelled out all the sections below.

Xmas Star Mitts - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on


Instructions

Section A

Provisionally CO 23 stitches
Setup Row: with C2 k9, place marker (M1), k5; with C1 k9 - after you've done this, your piece should look similar to illustration photo 1.
Rigde 1: sl1, k6 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k8 (C1), k5 (C2), t+p, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k12 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 10: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k11 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 13: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k10 (C1), k5 (C2), t+p, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 16: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k9 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)


When you've finished section A, place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles ("marker A").


Section B

Ridge 1: sl1, k11 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k13 (C1), k3 (C2), turn, sl1, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k15 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last 2 sts (C1) kfb, k1
Rigde 9: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), turn, sl1, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k12 (C1), k5 (C2), turn, sl1, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k10 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)


Chart B: Sections B and G

Section C

Ridge 1: sl1, k12 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 7: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 12: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k14 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k16 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 17: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 19: sl1, k13 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 20: sl1, k15 (C1), k7 (C2), t+p, k6 (C2), k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 21: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 22: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 23: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 24: sl1, k14 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)

When you've finished section C, place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles ("marker C")
Chart C: Sections C and F
When you've finished section C, place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles (marker C). Your piece should now look similar to the illustration photo 2.

Section D

Ridge 1: sl1, k16 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 7: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k19 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 13: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k14 (C1), k to end (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k12 (C1), k8 (C2), t+p, k7 (C2), k to end (C1)

Chart D: Sections D and E


Section E (i.e. section D backwards)

Ridge 1: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k14 (C1), k to end (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 6: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k19 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1  
Ridge 12: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k16 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)

Section F (i.e. section C backwards)

During sections F and G, you will attach the last stitch of each ridge with an edge stitch of section C and section B respectively. For this you need to fold the mitt along the folding line (right sides out) and attach the sides as you go along - as explained above in "Techniques" and abbreviated with ssk+c in the pattern. Picture 4 shows how the mitt looks after you have knitted a few rows of section F when you connect the halves as you go.

Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row of section F and G; and sew the two edges together afterwards.

Start connecting the last stitch of the first row to the stitch that is marked by marker C folding the mitt wrong sides out and work your way upwards.

Ridge 1: sl1, k14 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 2: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 3: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 4: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c
Ridge 5: sl1, k15 (C1), k7 (C2), t+p, k6 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 6: sl1, k13 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 7: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 8: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c 
Ridge 9: sl1, k16 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 10: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 11: sl1, k14 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 12: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 13: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c   
Ridge 14: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c)
Ridge 15: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 16: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 17: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 18: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c 
Ridge 19: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 20: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 21: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 22: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 23: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 24: sl1, k12 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c

Xmas Star Mitts - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on


Section G (i.e. section B backwards)

Ridge 1: sl1, k10 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 2: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 3: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 4: sl1, k12 (C1), k5 (C2), turn, sl1, k4 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 6: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), turn, sl1, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 7: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Rigde 8: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to 3 sts before end (C1), ssk, ssk+c
Ridge 9: sl1, k15 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 10: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 11: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 12: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 13: sl1, k13 (C1), k3 (C2), turn, sl1, k2 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 14: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 15: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 16: sl1, k11 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c

After connecting the edge stitches of sections F and G to the edge stitches of section C and B you should have reached marker A.

Xmas Star Mitts - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on


Section H (i.e. section A backwards)

Ridge 17: sl1, k9 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 15: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k10 (C1), k5 (C2), t+p, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 12: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k11 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 9: sl1, k12 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)

Cut yarn both strands of yarn but leave tails of about 50 cm. Take out your scrap yarn of the provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a knitting needle. Graft in garter stitch: 9 stitches in C1 and the rest of the stitches in C2.

Weave in ends.
Make two.

Xmas Star Mitts - Free Knitting Pattern by Knitting and so on

This post was featured at Pinbellish Link Party No. 17.

Mittwoch, 2. Dezember 2015

Starry, Starry Mitts

I've never done anything with colorwork - and the attempt(s) I've made up to now are ...ehm ... well, let's say there is room for improvement. Basically, I couldn't knit colorwork to save my life ... :)

But I had this idea about a pair of fingerless gloves with a star around the thumb - knitted in the same direction as the Starburst Mitts. So I tried a few times and frogged a few times. However, the version I've got now seems to work, looks OK ... and the finished one even fits around may hand.


Samstag, 28. November 2015

Jolly Waves Cowl

With an eye-catching design and beautiful colors this cowl will keep your spirits up this winter. The gorgeous graphical effect is achieved by the combination of short rows with a feather and fan pattern.



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • about 220 grams of DK weight yarn in 3 colors, 100 grams of the main colors each (beige and maroon in the photos - called MC1 and MC2) and 20 grams of the contrast color (off-white in the photos - called CC) - this will yield a double length cowl, i.e. about 125 cm in circumference.
  • 3.75 mm knitting needles (straight or circular)
  • 6 stitch markers (2 stitch markers to mark the edges and 4 markers to mark the ends of the short rows - these 4 markers will be called M1 to M4)




Techniques

Short Row Sections

The pattern consists of different short row sections that are divided by a garter stitch ridge in the neutral color.


There are four types of section - as shown in the picture above.
  • Right Narrow Section
  • Left Narrow Section
  • Right Wide Section and
  • Left Wide Section.
The diagram below shows how the short rows stack up for each section type. Both the photo and the diagram show the RS of the cowl.


Basically, you knit 4 narrow sections (right-left-right-left) and 4 wide sections (also right-left-right-left) with a rigde in a neutral color inbetween. All "right"-sections (i.e. right narrow and right wide section) are knitted in color 1 (MC1), all "left"-sections (i.e. left narrow and left wide section) are knitted in color 2 (MC2) - and all contrast ridges are knitted with the contrast color CC.


Instructions

Provisionally CO 66 stitches and knit one row with CC - leaving a tail long enough to graft these 66 stitches in the end and placing the markers as follows: k3 pm (edge marker) k12 pm (=M1) k12 pm (=M2) k12 pm (=M3) k12 pm (=M4) k12 pm (edge marker) k3

Knit a right narrow section as follows:
With MC1
R1 (RS): k all stitches
R2 (WS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R3, R4 (RS, WS): k up to M1, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R5, R6 (RS, WS): k up to M2, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R7, R8 (RS, WS): k up to M3, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R9, R10 (RS, WS): k up to M4, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif

Knit a contrast ridge as follows
With CC
R1 (RS): k all stitches
R2 (WS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif

Knit a left narow section as follows
With MC2
R1 (RS): k all stitches
R2, R3 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb (you're now at M1), w+t, k all stitches
R4, R5 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M2, w+t, k all stitches
R6, R7 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M3, w+t, k all stitches
R8, R9 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M4, w+t, k all stitches
R10 (WS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif

Knit a contrast ridge.
Knit a right narrow section.
Knit a contrast ridge.
Knit a left narrow section.
Knit a contrast ridge.

Knit a right wide section as follows
With MC1
R1 (RS): k all stitches
R2 (WS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R3, R4 (RS, WS): k up to M1, k6, w+t, ssk ssk kfb kfb, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R5, R6 (RS, WS): k up to M1, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R7, R8 (RS, WS): k up to M2, k6, w+t,  ssk ssk kfb kfb, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R9, R10 (RS, WS): k up to M2, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R11, R12 (RS, WS): k up to M3, k6, w+t, ssk ssk kfb kfb,* kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R13, R14 (RS, WS): k up to M3, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R15, R16 (RS, WS): k up to M4, k6, w+t, ssk ssk kfb kfb, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R17, R18 (RS, WS): k up to M4, w+t, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif
R19, R20 (RS, WS), k3, k6, w+t, ssk ssk kfb kfb, sl3wyif

Knit a contrast ridge.

Knit a left wide section as follows
With MC2
R1 (RS): k all stitches
R2, R3 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, kfb kfb ssk ssk, w+t, k all stitches
R4, R5 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb (you're now at M1), w+t, k all stitches
R6, R7 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb (you're now at M1), kfb kfb ssk ssk, w+t, k all stitches
R8, R9 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M2, w+t, k all stitches
R10, R11 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M2, kfb kfb ssk ssk.  w+t, k all stitches
R12, R13 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M3, w+t, k all stitches
R14, R15 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M3, kfb kfb ssk ssk. w+t, k all stitches
R16, R17 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M4, w+t, k all stitches
R18, R19 (WS, RS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until you are at M4, kfb kfb ssk ssk.  w+t, k all stitches
R20 (WS): sl3wyif, * kfb kfb ssk ssk ssk ssk kfb kfb repeat from * until there are only 3 sts left, sl3wyif

Knit a contrast ridge.
Knit a right wide section.
Knit a contrast ridge
Knit a left wide section.

Repeat this series of sections (right narrow, left narrow, right narrow, left narrow and right wide, left wide, right wide, left wide) - always divided by a ridge in the neutral color - until the cowl is long enough for you. End with a left wide section.

Put the stitches from your provisional cast-on on a needle and graft both ends together - 3 sts in stockinette, then 60 sts in garter stitch and the last 3 again in stockinette stitch. (If you need more detailed instructions for the grafting part, it's the same that has been used for the Mixed Wave Cowl on this blog. Follow the link and you'll find detailed instructions written by Joni Coniglio.

Weave in ends and block.


Oombawka Design