Motifs in Context

This piece evolved from a discussion with one of my knitting friends (SusStrickArt - you can follow her on Ravelry or Instagram).  She has a gorgeous knitting and design style that is completely different from my own. She creates exquisitely tailored garments with beautiful details, while I prefer bold geometric patterns in smaller pieces or accessories..

Last year, she suggested a design cooperation - in that I would do some sort of flower motif that would be placed in the context of a well-finished garment ... the flower squares used here were my first "try" that I liked it so much that I published it as a separate pattern (my Hana Coasters). Even though this square didn't make it into our cooperation, I used it (and the general idea) in this top as a side panel - using similar constructions and calculations as in my No Assembly Required Top.

We actually DID publish a joint design (the Japanese Blossom Cardigan) in April 2026 - using a different flower motif.

So, here's a blog post that describes how to create something similar yourself. Please note, that this is NOT A FULL KNITTING PATTERN, but a "only" a description / tutorial. However, there are some illustrations that explain the construction and I will give you the numbers and calculation (written in violet) for the top that I knitted.

To produce something similar you can of course use other square motifs (knitted or crocheted) instead - I can imagine that even crocheted Granny Squares might look interesting as a side panel.

Materials

• yarn - I used fingering weight cotton yarn, specifically Fraya colorful - here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page
• about 225 grams of the main color (blue in title picture) 
• about 25 grams of the contrast color (white in title picture)
• knitting needles - and a second needle (the same size or a bit smaller in size): to knit I used 2.75mm needles (as a second needle (e.g. to pick up stitches from an edge) I used 2mm needles 
• some stitch markers
• scrap yarn - for provisional CO, to secure stitches that will be needed later and as markers
• a crochet hook for the provisional CO that suits the yarn (I used a 2.5mm hook)
• a tapestry needle for grafting
• pen and paper - because you need to write down your measurements and calculations and you absolutely need to take notes while you are knitting (e.g. to make the garment symmetrical in shape)

Techniques / Definitions

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by VeryPinkKnits.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, slip the last stitch and insert the right needle in a loop from the opposite side, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk) - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66
• Pick up stitches - as opposed to pick up and knit, as shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter
• Seaming garter stitch - shown in this YouTube video by VeryPinkKnits. This is needed for creating the side panels if you use a garter stitch motif - like I did.
• Icelandic bind off (which I used for binding off my sleeves) - shown in this YouTube video by VeryPinkKnits
• Reverse Single Crochet (Crab Stitch): a crochet stitch that makes for a lovely edging - shown in this YouTube video by Tamara Kelly - Moogly
• One garter stitch ridge equals two rows of garter stitch

Instructions

• Create your side panels, i.e. knit or crochet your motifs (illustration A) and sew them up to a strip (illustration B). Make sure that they stack up to a length that corresponds to the measured length from under your arm to the hem of piece. As you can see on illustration A, I added two stitches on opposite sides of my Hana squares to make them longer (rectangles rather than squares). Alternatively, you can add knitted / crocheted strips between your motifs.

• Knit a swatch. If your side panel pieces are knitted and you are brave, you may use the side panel pieces to count your stitch/rows to centimeter ratio, but usually a real swatch is more reliable.
  
• Take the following measures and measure the width of your side panel. 

B = width of the shoulder seam

C = half of the width of neckline

D = a quarter of the waist circumference

E = half of your front measurement at bust height

E' =  half of your back measurement at bust height

F = a quarter of your hip circumference

U = a quarter of your underarm circumference

G = from shoulder to neckline (back)

H = from shoulder to neckline (front)

I = from shoulder to right under your arm

J = from shoulder to bust

K = from shoulder to waist

L = from shoulder to hip (total length of the garment)

S = half the width of your sidepanel (not in schematic) 

• Calculate the number of necessary stitches for each vertical measurement and calculate the number of necessary ridges (1 garter stitch ridge = 2 rows of garter stitch) for the sideways measurements. Make sure to subtract the S (half the width of the sidepanel) from  F, D, E, E', U - to take the side panel into account. I also calculated the difference of ridges that I would need at every height (hem, waist, underarm, bust) because that gives the amount of short rows that have to be included in the garment.
• Now you can start knitting the back piece: From the side panel pick up and knit the number of stitches that corresponds with L-I (i.e. hem of garment up to right under the arm). On another needle use your scrap yarn to do a provisional CO of the number of stitches that corresponds with I. Using the needle with the picked up stitches continue to knit the stitches of the provisional CO so that you have a row of stitches that corresponds to L (your piece now looks like illustration C). The piece will be knitted sideways similar to the the No Assembly Required Top. I inserted two markers on the WS row: one at waist height and one a underarm height. This pickup row and its WS row are ridge 1.
• According to your measurements add short rows to create shape at the hem and underarm. When you have reached the shoulder width at the top, start decreases at the top in order to get your desired neckline. Take notes while you are knitting. I did all my shaping in the beginning - after I had finished the shaping (waist, bust, hips), I placed a stitch marker marking the row, to make counting the straight rows (without short rows) easier.
  
• Knit until you have reached half of your back piece. Then according to your notes, knit a mirror image of the first half. Again, I marked the row to make counting from the middle easier. On illustration D you can see these markers: the white one marks the middle of the back piece, the two pink ones mark the end/beginning of the shaping short rows.
• When your next row would be the mirror row to ridge 1, do the following: 
• knit RS, then knit WS up until the underarm measure
• put the (just knitted) stitches from shoulder to underarm on a stitch holder (e.g. scrap yarn)
• with another needle pick up (NOT pick up and knit) stitches from the side of your second sidepanel - make sure to pick up the same number of stitches as you did on the first side panel (or the number of stitches that corresponds to L-I) - see illustration D
• cut your working yarn leaving a tail long enough for grafting and graft the remaining stitches of your back piece and the newly picked up stitches togethe

• Now you have finished the back piece with two connected side panels.
• The front piece is knitted similar to the back piece - however the shaping around the bust and the neckline will be different. This means you start by picking up stitches from the side of the second side panel (again this should be the number of stitches that corresponds to L-I). Do a provisional CO of L stitches on another needle and make a continuous row of your picked up stitches with the stitches of the provisional CO. Since there will probably a bit more shaping around the bust on the front, put in three stitch markers: at underarm height, at bust height and a waist height while knitting the WS of the pick-up row. Again, this pickup row and its WS row are ridge 1.
• According to your measurements add short rows to create shaping around bust, hem and underarm. Again, when you have reached the shoulder width at the top, start decreases at the top in order to get your desired neckline. Make sure that the number of ridges at your shoulder seam is the same in the front as on the back piece.
• As in the back piece - once you finished half of the front - place a marker and knit the mirror image of the first half. Your piece will look similar to illustration E.
• When your next row would be the mirror row to ridge 1, do the following: 
• knit RS, then knit WS up until the underarm measure
• put the (just knitted) stitches from shoulder to underarm on a stitch holder (e.g. scrap yarn)
• with another needle pick up (NOT pick up and knit) stitches from the unused side of your first sidepanel - make sure to pick up the same number of stitches as you did on the first side panel (or the number of stitches that corresponds to L-I) - see illustration F 
• cut your working yarn leaving a tail long enough for grafting and graft the remaining stitches of your back piece and the newly picked up stitches together.

• You now have finished the main body pieces.
• Now sew up the shoulder sleeves using the method for seaming garter stitch that is shown in the video linked above.
• Your piece now already looks like a top (similar to photo G). Around the armholes you can still see the scrap yarn used for the provisional CO and as a stitch holder.
• For one sleeve pick up the stitches of  the provisional CO and the stitch holder on one needle - and placed a marker between them, i.e. at the top of the shoulder seam (see illustration H). To avoid a hole at the top, I picked up an additional stitch there.

• The sleeves will now be knitted back and forth on this needle - afterwards the edge stitches will be attached to the upper edge of the side panel. Therefore the number of rows (edge stitches) is limited to the available edge stitches of the motif. I added a few short rows to make the sleeves a bit longer and a few decreases at the top and the beginning/end of the row to achieve a curve around the shoulders. Again, take notes while knitting a sleeve to knit the second one to match.
• Bind off the sleeve and sew the edge stitches of the sleeve to the upper edge of the side panel - photo I.
• Knit a second sleeve and sew it to its side panel.
• To smooth the curve of your neckline, finish it with a crochet edge - I used crab stitch (see photo J)
• Weave in ends and remove all remaining markers.

Now some numbers and instructions for the piece I knitted - with my measurements and my gauge (10 cm, about 21,5 ridges) I needed the following ridges/stitches:

S = half the width of your sidepanel: 5 cm; 12 ridges

B = width of the shoulder seam: 17 ridges

C = half of the width of neckline: 9 cm; 20 ridges

D = a quarter of the waist circumference: 20 cm - 5 cm (S: half of  sidepanel) 15 cm: 32 ridges

E = half of your front measurement at bust height: 25 cm - 5 cm (S) = 20 cm: 43 ridges

E' =  half of your back measurement at bust height: 22 cm - 5 (S) = 17 cm: 37 ridges

F = a quarter of your hip circumference: 25 cm - 5 cm (S) = 20 cm: 43 ridges

U = a quarter of your underarm circumference: 22 cm - 5 (S) = 17 cm: 37 ridges

G = from shoulder to neckline (back): 6 sts

H = from shoulder to neckline (front): 30 sts

I = from shoulder to right under your arm: 47 sts

J = from shoulder to bust: 47 sts + 17 sts

K = from shoulder to waist: 47 + 17 + 38

L = from shoulder to hip (total length of the garment): 47 + 86 sts

I also calculated the differences of ridges, i.e.

• waist (32) / bottom hemline (43): 43-32 = 11, i.e. there have to be 11 more ridges at the bottom hem than at waist height
• waist (32) / underarm (37): 37 - 32 = 5 , i.e. there have to be 5 more ridges at the bottom hem than at waist height
• waist (32) / front-bust (43): 43-32 = 11, i.e. there have to be 11 more ridges at the bust heigh (on the front) than at waist height

Back

After creating the first side panel (photo B), I picked up 86 stitches along the long side, knitted (from a different needle) a provisional CO of 47 stitches and knitted all stitches on WS (photo C) while putting in marker 2 (M2) 47 stitches from the top (underarm) and marker 1 (M1) 55 stitches further along (31 stitches away from the bottom hem) - that was my Ridge 1.

Then I started knitting the main back part and included short rows for shaping:

Ridge 2: (RS) k to 4 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to 12 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to M2, k40, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

//with the short rows in this ridge the width at the hemline is two ridges wider than the waist and the underarm/shoulder is one ridge wider than the waist

Ridge 3: (RS) k to 20 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k all, turn (WS) k to M2, k30, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

Ridge 4: (RS) k to 8 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to 16 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to M2, k20, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

Ridge 5: (RS) k to 2 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to 10 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to M2, k35, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

Ridge 6: (RS) k to 18 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k all, turn (WS) k to M2, k25, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

//now there are 5 more ridges at underarm/shoulder height than at the waist, so no more short rows have to be added here

Ridge 7: (RS) k to 24 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k all, turn (WS) k all

Ridge 8: (RS) k to 5 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k all, turn (WS) k all

Ridge 9: (RS) k to 13 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k all, turn (WS) k all

//now there are 11 more ridges at the bottom hem than at the waist, i.e. no more short rows have to be added here 

Ridge 10:  (RS) k all, turn (WS) k all

Ridges 11 and 12 = Ridge 10

//now the shoulder seam is 17 ridges wide, i.e. the neckline can be started,

Ridge 13: (RS) k all, turn (WS) BO3, k to end

Ridge 14: (RS) k to last 2 sts, k2tog, turn (WS) k all

Ridge 15: (RS) k to last 2 sts, k2tog, turn (WS) k all

Ridges 16 = Ridge 10

Ridge 17: (RS) k to last 2 sts, k2tog, turn (WS) k all

//now the neckline is deep enough (6 stitches) - so the rows until the middle of the back are just plain garter stitch, i.e. 

Ridges 18 - 32 = Ridge 10

//now the middle of the back piece has been reached - all following ridges are the ones knitted before but in the opposite order. but when there is a decrease (k2tog) in the first half, do an increase (kfb) and when there is a BO do a CO.

When I had reached the "mirror" of ridge 1, I did the following: I knitted RS, than I knitted WS up to the M2 (the underarm marker) and put these 47 stitches on a stitch holder, with another needle I picked up 86 stitches from the long edge of the second sidepanel. 

I cut my yarn (leaving a tail) and grafted both rows of 86 stitches together in garter stitch (holding the side panel on the front needle).

Front

From the second side panel, I picked up the same number of stitches than for the back part (86 stitches) along the long side, and knitted (from a different needle) a provisional CO of 47 stitches and knitted all stitches on WS (photo C) while putting in marker 2 (M3) 47 stitches from the top (underarm) and marker 2 (M2, bust height) 17 stitches further along, and (M1) 38 stitches further along (31 stitch from the bottom hem) - that was my Ridge 1.

Then I started knitting the main front part and included short rows for shaping:

Ridge 2: (RS) k to 4 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to 10 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to M2, k30, w+t

    (RS) k to M2, k12, w+t (WS) k to M2, k20, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

//with the short rows of this ridge the width at the hemline is two ridges wider than the waist and the underarm/shoulder is one ridge wider than the waist and the bust is two ridges wider than the waist 

Ridge 3: (RS) k to 16 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to 22 sts bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to M2, k10, w+t

    (RS) k to M2, k10, w+t (WS) k to M2, k7, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

Ridge 4: (RS) k to 2 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end
    (RS) k to 8 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end
    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k to M2, k25, w+t,
    (RS) k to M2, k5, w+t, (WS) k to M2, k15, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k to end

Ridge 5: (RS) k to 14 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to 20 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end
    (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k to M2, k5, w+t
    (RS) k to M2, k14, w+t, (WS) k to M2, k9, w+t
    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k to end

Ridge 6: (RS) k to 26 bef M1, w+t, (WS), k to end
    (RS) k to 6 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to M2, k10, w+t, (WS) k to M2, k13, w+t
    (RS) k to M2, k7, w+t, (WS) k to M2, k17, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 7: (RS) k to 12 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k to M2, k21, w+t,

    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 8: (RS) k to 18 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to M2, k8, w+t, (WS) k to M2, k23, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 9: (RS) k to 24 bef M1, w+t, (WS) k to end

    (RS) k to M2, k5, w+t, (WS) k to M2, k7, w+t

    (RS) k to end, turn, (WS) k all

//now the shaping for the first half of the front is finished, i.e. because of the short rows there are 13 more ridge son the hem, 13 more ridges on the bust height, and 5 more ridges underarm compared to the waist

Ridge 10 - 12: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k all

// now I started the neckline by binding off/decreasing a total of 30 stitches from the top over the next rows in the following pattern: 10-7-4-2-1-1-1-0-1-0-1-0-0-1-0-0-1, i.e.

Ridge 13: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) BO10, k to end

Ridge 14: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) BO7, k to end

Ridge 15: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) BO4, k to end

Ridge 16: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) BO2, k to end

Ridge 17 - 19: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k2tog, k to end

Ridge 20: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 21: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k2tog, k to end

Ridge 22: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 23: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k2tog, k to end

Ridge 24 - 25: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 26: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k2tog, k to end

Ridge 27 - 28: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k all

Ridge 29: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k2tog, k to end

Ridge 31 - 32: (RS) k all, turn, (WS) k all

Having reached the middle of the front half, I knitted these ridges 32 to 2 in opposite order (increasing where there was a decrease and casting on stitches, when I did a bind off before). I then knitted RS of ridge 1 and WS up to the underarm marker.  I put the 47 sleeve stitches on a stitch holder and with another needle I picked up 86 stitches from the long and unused edge of the first sidepanel. Again, I cut my yarn and grafted both rows of 86 stitches together in garter stitch (holding the side panel on the front needle).

Sleeves (very short)

To prepare finishing the sleeves, I sewed up the shoulder seams and put the stitchholder stitches from front and back on one knitting needle - marking the top of the shoulder with a stitch marker. 

Then I knitted both sleeves as follows:

Ridge 1: (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

Ridge 2: (RS) k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog k1, turn, (WS) k to marker, k4, w+t,
   (RS) k4, k4, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 3 (RS), k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k8, w+t,

   (RS) k8, k8, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 4 (RS) k to 3 bef marker, k2tog, k1, k1, k2tog, k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k11, w+t,
   (RS) k11, k11, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 5 (RS), k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k15, w+t,

   (RS) k15, k15, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 6 (RS) k to 3 bef marker, k2tog, k1, k1, k2tog, k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k18, w+t,
   (RS) k18, k18, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 7 (RS), k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k22, w+t,

   (RS) k22, k22, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 8 (RS) k to 3 bef marker, k2tog, k1, k1, k2tog, k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k25, w+t,
   (RS) k25, k25, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 9 (RS), k to end, turn, (WS) k to marker, k29, w+t,

   (RS) k29, k29, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 10 (RS) k1, k2tog to 3 bef marker, k2tog, k1, k1, k2tog, k to 3 bef end, k2tog, k1, turn, 

         (WS) k to marker, k32, w+t,
   (RS) k32, k32, w+t, (WS) k to end

Ridge 11: (RS) k to end, turn (WS) k to end

Ridge 12: (RS) k to end, (WS) BO in Icelandic BO

Then I sewed the edge stitches of the sleeves to the upper edge of the side panel (see illustration I)

Finishing

I finished the neckline with a row of crochet in crab stitch.

Japanese Blossom Cardigan

This cardigan is a joint project of SusStrickArt (link to her Ravelry page) and me. We both have very different knitting ideas and none of us would have done this on her own.

The distinctive design features of this cardigan are: The front panels that extend beyond the shoulder and also form the upper part of the back piece and the sewn-on knitted flowers, colour-coordinated with the cardigan, which were previously knitted separately using fingering weight yarn. In addition, it has a scalloped border along the bottom edge and on the sleeves and the beautifully shaped V-neck with an I-cord edge. The result is a a lightweight cardigan designed for german size 36/38 that  can be combined in many ways, from chic to sporty and will quickly become your favorite jacket, not just because it’s so comfortable to wear.

The pattern for the cardigan is available via Ravelry (in english and german)

Please note, this pattern is for the cardigan only. The pattern for the blossoms is available here.

Blüten Appliqué

These cute little flowers are constructed to be knitted flat. They can be used as decorations, e.g. to applique them on a garment (e.g. wrist warmers or hats) or to create brooches (e.g. in combination with pearls or buttons).

Knitting them can be quite addictive :)

Since this piece starts with a small stitch count and is generally a small project, it can be quite fiddly. It also uses techniques like short rows, provisional CO and grafting in garter stitch. Therefore, it is NOT a beginner pattern.

As to the name, Blüten is the german word for blossoms.

The pattern PDF is available via

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Lovecrafts (soon)

Until April 25, 2026 you can get a 25% discount with coupon code "BLOSSOM".

[German] Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.

The pattern PDF is 7 pages long and contains 

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece – including five photos of the different stages
• a pattern chart of one petal
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques
• provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
• knitted CO
• grafting in garter stitch
• short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps

For special birthday wishes

Of course, these pieces can be knitted with any yarn weight and appropriate needle. 

• yarn 
• with fingering yarn I used about 11 metres
• knitting needles
• with fingering yarn I used 2.5 mm needles or 1.5 mm needles (the ones knitted in 2.5 mm needles measure about 8.5 cm in diameter, the ones in 1.5 mm needles measure about 7.5 cm in diameter)
• a crochet hook of roughly the same size as the knitting needle
• scrap yarn of roughly the same weight as size than you knitting yarn
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

To embellish your knitware
(the knitting pattern for the cardigan is available on Ravelry)

Blüten Applikation

Diese niedlichen Blüten werden in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt. Sie können vielseitig zur Dekoration eingesetzt werden, z.B. als Applikationen auf Kleidungsstücken  (z.B. Pulswärmer, Mützen) oder – zusammen mit schönen Knöpfen – zu Broschen verarbeitet werden. Wenn man einmal angefangen hat, sie zu stricken, ist es schwer wieder aufzuhören :)

Da sie mit nur wenigen Maschen beginnen, ist etwas Fingerfertigkeit und Strickerfahrung nötig, sie zu stricken. Außerdem werden Techniken wie verkürzte Reihe, provisorischer Maschenanschlag und Maschenstich in kraus rechts verwendet. Daher eignen sie sich NICHT als Anfänger-Projekt.

Die Strickanleitung ist als PDF verfügbar via 

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Lovecrafts (bald)

Bis zum 25. April 2026 gibt es einen Rabatt von 25% mit dem Code "BLOSSOM".

[English] An English language version of this pattern is available here.

Diese Strickanleitung ist 7 Seiten lang und enthält  

• eine geschriebene Anleitung – inklusive fünf Fotos, die das Stück während der Konstruktion zeigen, 
• ein Diagramm (Strickschrift) für ein Blütenblatt
• kurze Foto-Tutorials für die folgenden Techniken 
• provisorischer Maschenanschlag mit Häkelnadel und wie die Maschen wieder aufgenommen werden
• gestrickter Maschenanschlag
• Maschenstich in kraus rechts
• verkürzte Reihen mit Wickelmaschen sowie Abstricken der Wickelmaschen

Für Geburtstagskarten

Diese Blüten können in jeder Garnstärke und den jeweils passenden Nadeln gestrickt werden. Man braucht ...

• Garn
• z.B. etwa 11 Meter 4-fädiges Garn 
• passende Stricknadeln
• für das vierfädige Garn habe ich einmal 2,5 mm Nadeln und einmal 1,5 mm Nadeln verwendet; mit den 2,5 mm Nadeln hatten etwa 8,5 cm Durchmesser, mit den 1,5 mm Nadeln etwa 7,5 mm Durchmesser
• eine Häkelnadel in etwa der selben Dicke
• Garnrest in etwa derselben Stärke wie das Strickgarn
• eine Stopfnadel für den Maschenstich und zum Vernähen der Enden

Zur Verzierung von Strickstücken
(die Strickanleitung für das Jäckchen gibt es hier auf Ravelry)

Cactus Socks

I love knitting socks. They are my go-to-project if I run out of knitting ideas or if I don't feel like continuing one of my other projects. These socks were knitted as a Christmas present for my Mum. They got quite a few likes on my social media - so I thought it'd be a good idea to write down how I did them. Since the stitch pattern looks a bit prickly, I called them Cactus Socks.

These socks are based on the Generic Sock Toe-Up, Slip-Stitch Heel, Sock Formula by Sarah Keller (here's the Ravelry-Link) - but adapted to my size, with a stitch pattern for the main part of the sock that is carried over the heel as well - plus my favorite techniques for sock knitting.

This is NOT a complete knitting pattern in different sizes, but a description how I did it - especially the stitch pattern and carrying it through on the heel flap. If you want to knit them in another size, please use Sarah Kellers pattern to calculate your numbers.

Size and Gauge

The instructions are for a women's size 38 to 39 (i.e. 24 to 24,7 cm total foot length).

For other sizes, use the methods described in Sarah Kellers pattern (Generic Sock Toe-Up, Slip-Stitch Heel, Sock Formula by Sarah Keller (here's the Ravelry-Link)) - but make sure that the stitch count after the toe can be devided by 8.

Here, 19 rows of stockinette gave 5cm in height and 16 sts (stockinette) gave 5 cm in width. But If you've knitted socks before, you'll know which total stitch count to aim for.Any stitch count that can be devided by 8 is fine.

Materials

• about 60 grams of fingering weight yarn - I used Larneras Yarn Co Barefoot Fingering (here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page)
• 2.5 mm needles - I used Addi Crasy Trios, but dpns or circulars with magic loop will work as well

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Judy's Magic Cast-On is a technique that gives you live stitches on both sides of your needle - it is generally used for toe-up socks (e.g. in this pattern), but it can be used for other purposes as well. Here's a written description (from Knitty) and here's a YouTube-video by Cat Bordhi and another YouTube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Shadow Wrap Short Rows: as shown in this YouTube video by Lee Meredith. A video by Miriam Felton that shows how to do a heel with shadow wraps can be found here on YouTube. However, I pick up the stitches in a different manner. 
• Knitting the Shadow Wraps: In a knit row (i.e. you're knitting on the outside of your socks), you knit up to the stitch where you want to turn, and then knit into the stitch in the row below, i.e. you insert the right hand needle from the front into the stitch below (1 on picture below) the next stitch and pull your working yarn through (2 on picture below). Then you put the loop onto the left hand needle (creating a double stitch from the stitch below) - keeping the yarn on the back (3 on picture below). Then you turn and your yarn is now in front, tighten it to make sure that all stitches have the same size and start to purl in the opposite direction. This sequence (knitting int the stitch below and turning) will be called kbelow in the pattern.

• If you're in a purl row, you purl into the stitch of the row below, i.e. insert the right hand needle from the back into the stitch below and draw your yarn through and put the stitch onto your left hand needle - creating a double stitch. The yarn is in front while you're doing this. Turn your work. The yarn is now on the back of your knitting. Make sure that the stitch is as tight as the other stitches on your needles and start knitting in the opposite direction. This sequence will be called pbelow in the pattern.
• Picking up the double stitches: When you come to a double stitch you can simply knit / purl it as one. This can create quite thick stitches and small holes that might be uncomfortable and not really neat. That's why (on the knit side, outside of the sock) I knitted the double stitch as follows: slip the first loop of your triple stitch as if to knit and slip the second stitch of the triple stitch as if to knit. Slip these two stitches together back onto the left hand needle (i.e. each of the stitches is turned now). Now knit them together through the back loop - similar to an ssk.
• On the purl side I worked the triple stitch like a normal purl 3 together.
• To avoid holes it is quite important to draw your second loops quite tight when turning.
• kbf: a stitch that mirrors a kfb, there are different ways to do this - here's one YouTube video by Mostly Knitting that shows this. However, my preferred method is this: shown in a YouTube short by strickhexx (in German). Both methods give the same result.
• Picking up stitches from the gap: a method to avoid holes after finishing the heel flap
• m1k: make 1 knit stitch
• m1p: make 1 purl stitch
• sssk: slip slip slip knit (a left leaning double decrease)
• k3tog: knit 3 together (a right leaning double decrease)

Instructions

Sock 1

Toe

do a magic CO of 2x10 stitches 

Round 1: k10, place marker, k10
Rounds 2 - 5: k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1, slip marker, k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1 (-> 2x18 sts)
Round 6: k all
Round 7 = Round 2 (-> 2x20 sts)
Round 8: k all
Round 9 = Round 2 (-> 2x22 sts)
Round 10: k all
Round 11 = Round 2 (-> 2x24 sts)
Rounds 12 - 13: k all
Round 14 = Round 2 (-> 2x26 sts)
Rounds 15 - 16: k all
Round 17 = Round 2  (-> 2x28 sts)

Foot

Round 1: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end 
Round 2: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 1 - 2 23 more times - the stitches before the marker are on the upper side of the foot, the stitches after the marker are on the sole
A chart for this stitch pattern (4 stitches, 2 rows) can be found below.

//increases for heel gusset, i.e. continue stitch pattern on front and increase on sole
Round 49: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1
Round 50: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 49 -50 nine more times, now there are 28 sts before the marker (front) and 48 sts after the marker (sole)
During the last round, place a stitch marker after 24 stitches of the sole stitches (i.e. after the half of the sole stitches, this marker will be called MM (middle marker))

//turning the heel
Round 69: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    k to MM, k 8, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p8, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 6, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p6, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 4, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p4, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 2, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p2, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to end of round

You have now added an additional 8 sole stitches.

//heel flap
Round 70: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
   (a) k to MM, k13, ssk, turn, sl1, p to MM, p13 p2tog, turn
   (b) sl1, * k1 p1 k2 rep from * to 2 bef last ssk, k1, p1, ssk, turn, 
        sl1, * p1, k1, p2 rep from * to 2 bef last p2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, turn
   repeat (b) until there are only 28 sts left of the sole stitches
finish the round by: sl1, * k1 p1 k2 rep from * to 3 bef last ssk, k1, p1, k1

Cuff

There will be a gap between the sole stitches and the front of the sock. To avoid a hole, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap.

Round 71: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    there will be a gap here too, so again, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap, 
     k1, p1, k2 rep from * to 5 or 6 bef end (depending on how many stitches you picked up from the gap), k1, p1, k1, sssk (or ssk if you only picked up 1 stitch from the gap)
Round 72: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
    k3tog (or k2tog if you only picked up 1 stitch), k1, p1, k1, * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to end

Round 73: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to end 
Round 74: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to end

Repeat round 73 to 74 until your cuff is as long as you want it (I knitted a total of 28 cuff rows)

Ribbing

Ribbing-Round: * k1, p2, k1 rep from * to end 

Knit at least 11 Ribbing rounds then bind off in pattern - using a stretchy bind off

Since the stitch pattern is quite small, it will look symmetrical enough if you knit two socks as described above. However, I wanted them to be really (REALLY!) symmetrical, so I mirrored the stitch pattern for the second sock. This requires also a few other adjustments - that are described below.

Sock 2

Toe: see sock 1

Foot

Round 1: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end
Round 2: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 1 - 2 23 more times

//increases for heel gusset
Round 49: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1
Round 50: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 49 -50 nine more times, now there are 28 sts before the marker (front) and 48 sts after the marker (sole)
During the last round, place a stitch marker after 24 stitches of the sole stitches (i.e. after the half of the sole stitches)

//turning the heel

Round 69: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    k to MM, k 8, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p8, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 6, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p6, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 4, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p4, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 2, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p2, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to end of round

//heel flap
Round 70: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
   (a) k to MM, k13, ssk, turn, sl1, p to MM, p13 p2tog, turn
   (b) sl1, * p1, k3 rep from * to 2 bef last ssk, p1, k1 ssk, turn, 
        sl1, * k1, p3 rep from * to 2 bef last p2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, turn
   repeat (b) until there are only 28 sts left of the sole stitches
   finish the round by: sl1, * p1, k3 rep from * to 3 bef last ssk, p1, k2

Cuff

There will be a gap between the sole stitches and the front of the sock. To avoid a hole, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap.

Round 71: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    there will be a gap here too, so again, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap, 
     k2, p1, k1 rep from * to 5 or 6 bef end (depending on how many stitches you picked up from the gap), k2, p1, sssk (or ssk if you only picked up 1 stitch from the gap)
Round 72: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
    k3tog (or k2tog if you only picked up 1 stitch), p1, k2, * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to end

Round 73: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to end 
Round 74: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to end

Repeat round 73 to 74 until your cuff is as long as you want it (I knitted a total of 28 cuff rows)

Ribbing: see sock 1

Chart

Stitch Pattern Chart

Windrädchen Fingerless Gloves

I love knitting fingerless gloves. They usually are a relatively small project, but they can have quite fun and interesting constructions. These ones are designed in triangles around the thumb. The knitting direction changes often, so it is a brilliant way to display some self striping or hand-dyed sock yarn. The name "Windrädchen” is the german word for pinwheel.

Since this pattern uses quite a few knitting techniques, it is NOT A BEGINNER PATTERN.

The knitting pattern for these fingerless gloves is available

• via Ravelry
• via Payhip
• via Lovecrafts

The pattern is 17 pages long and contains

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece in one size only – including 36 in-process photos (in a separate section at the end)
• an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction,
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques
• crochet CO (a CO at the edge of a knitted piece)
• pick up and knit – with an explanation on how to pick up from a slanted edge
• picking up stitches from a gap – to avoid holes

Gauge and Size

To get a certain variation in size I knitted one pair on 3mm needles (see picture on the right, top pair of mitts) and another one pair with on 2.5 mm needles (see picture on the right, bottom pair of mitts):

• With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece measures 18 cm in height, with a circumference of 15 cm at the top and 16.5 cm at the bottom.
• With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 27 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with  unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures 17 cm in height, with a circumference of 14 cm at the top and 15.5 cm at the bottom.

However, the pieces are all in garter stitch, so they are quite stretchy.

Materials

To knit these fingerless gloves you need the following materials

• 150 meters of fingering weight yarn weight yarn – I used
• Zwerger Opal - Schafpate 16 POTRÄÄÄH Linda - die Wasserratte (Colourway 11452) for the in process pictures
• Outstanding Silk Sock by Hooks and Yarn (in Amsterdam) for the title picture
• unlabeled solid coloured yarn for the striped pair 
• 3 mm knitting needles – I used 80 cm circulars as main needles to knit the thumb
• two additional 3mm knitting needles – I used dpns to knit the panels around the thumb
• a crochet hook that is a bit bigger than the knitting needles (I used a 4 mm hook) to get a stretchy crochet CO
• a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends 

Blümchen Hat

The “Blümchen hat” is knitted flat and in garter stitch – starting with a provisional CO. The word “Blümchen” is German for little flower. The flower pattern is created using intarsia technique. In the end the last row is grafted to the first creating a seamless look. 

It comes in four sizes and in two versions – beanie or with foldable brim.

Since this is an intarsia project with three colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly. Therefore, it is NOT a beginner pattern.

The pattern PDF is available via

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Lovecrafts

This pattern PDF is 12 pages long and contains 

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this hat – including 13 photos of the different stages and explanations on
• how to deal with the colour change of the setup row when undoing the provisional CO
• how to deal with colour changes while grafting in this pattern
• a pattern chart for one petal of the intarsia flower in the crown of the hat
• short version of this pattern 
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques
• provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
• grafting in garter stitch
• short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps 
• intarsia knitting 
• weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)

Gauge and Sizes

In unstretched garter stitch 42 rows/ 21 ridges gave 10 cm in height (if you stretch the piece about 34 rows / 17 ridges gave 10 cm in height). 21 stitches gave 10 cm in width. Since the hat is knitted sideways the height and number of rows defines the hat's circumference and the width of the stitches the height of the hat.

size	circumference (stretched)	circumference (unstretched)	height (w/o rim)	height (with rim)
S	54 - 55 cm	45 - 46 cm	18,5 cm	23,5 cm
M	56 - 57 cm	47 - 48 cm	19,5 cm	24,5 cm
L	58 - 59 cm	49 - 50 cm	20,5 cm	25,5 cm
XL	60 - 61 cm	51 - 52 cm	21,5 cm	26,5 cm

To knit this hat you need the following materials

• DK weight yarn in three colours:
• about 36 grams / 80 metres of C1 (background colour, without rim), or about 45 grams / 110 metres of C1 (background colour, with foldable rim)
• about 6 grams / 20 metres of C2 (contour colour)
• about 18 grams / 50 metres of C3 (colour of the petals)
• 3.5mm knitting needles
• scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO
• 1 stitch marker
• two tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends