Blüten Appliqué

These cute little flowers are constructed to be knitted flat. They can be used as decorations, e.g. to applique them on a garment (e.g. wrist warmers or hats) or to create brooches (e.g. in combination with pearls or buttons).

Knitting them can be quite addictive :)

Since this piece starts with a small stitch count and is generally a small project, it can be quite fiddly. It also uses techniques like short rows, provisional CO and grafting in garter stitch. Therefore, it is NOT a beginner pattern.

As to the name, Blüten is the german word for blossoms.

The pattern PDF is available via

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Lovecrafts (soon)

Until April 25, 2026 you can get a 25% discount with coupon code "BLOSSOM".

[German] Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.

The pattern PDF is 7 pages long and contains 

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece – including five photos of the different stages
• a pattern chart of one petal
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques
• provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
• knitted CO
• grafting in garter stitch
• short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps

For special birthday wishes

Of course, these pieces can be knitted with any yarn weight and appropriate needle. 

• yarn 
• with fingering yarn I used about 11 metres
• knitting needles
• with fingering yarn I used 2.5 mm needles or 1.5 mm needles (the ones knitted in 2.5 mm needles measure about 8.5 cm in diameter, the ones in 1.5 mm needles measure about 7.5 cm in diameter)
• a crochet hook of roughly the same size as the knitting needle
• scrap yarn of roughly the same weight as size than you knitting yarn
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

To embellish your knitware

Blüten Applikation

Diese niedlichen Blüten werden in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt. Sie können vielseitig zur Dekoration eingesetzt werden, z.B. als Applikationen auf Kleidungsstücken  (z.B. Pulswärmer, Mützen) oder – zusammen mit schönen Knöpfen – zu Broschen verarbeitet werden. Wenn man einmal angefangen hat, sie zu stricken, ist es schwer wieder aufzuhören :)

Da sie mit nur wenigen Maschen beginnen, ist etwas Fingerfertigkeit und Strickerfahrung nötig, sie zu stricken. Außerdem werden Techniken wie verkürzte Reihe, provisorischer Maschenanschlag und Maschenstich in kraus rechts verwendet. Daher eignen sie sich NICHT als Anfänger-Projekt.

Die Strickanleitung ist als PDF verfügbar via 

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Lovecrafts (bald)

Bis zum 25. April 2026 gibt es einen Rabatt von 25% mit dem Code "BLOSSOM".

[English] An English language version of this pattern is available here.

Diese Strickanleitung ist 7 Seiten lang und enthält  

• eine geschriebene Anleitung – inklusive fünf Fotos, die das Stück während der Konstruktion zeigen, 
• ein Diagramm (Strickschrift) für ein Blütenblatt
• kurze Foto-Tutorials für die folgenden Techniken 
• provisorischer Maschenanschlag mit Häkelnadel und wie die Maschen wieder aufgenommen werden
• gestrickter Maschenanschlag
• Maschenstich in kraus rechts
• verkürzte Reihen mit Wickelmaschen sowie Abstricken der Wickelmaschen

Für Geburtstagskarten

Diese Blüten können in jeder Garnstärke und den jeweils passenden Nadeln gestrickt werden. Man braucht ...

• Garn
• z.B. etwa 11 Meter 4-fädiges Garn 
• passende Stricknadeln
• für das vierfädige Garn habe ich einmal 2,5 mm Nadeln und einmal 1,5 mm Nadeln verwendet; mit den 2,5 mm Nadeln hatten etwa 8,5 cm Durchmesser, mit den 1,5 mm Nadeln etwa 7,5 mm Durchmesser
• eine Häkelnadel in etwa der selben Dicke
• Garnrest in etwa derselben Stärke wie das Strickgarn
• eine Stopfnadel für den Maschenstich und zum Vernähen der Enden

Zur Verzierung von Strickstücken

Cactus Socks

I love knitting socks. They are my go-to-project if I run out of knitting ideas or if I don't feel like continuing one of my other projects. These socks were knitted as a Christmas present for my Mum. They got quite a few likes on my social media - so I thought it'd be a good idea to write down how I did them. Since the stitch pattern looks a bit prickly, I called them Cactus Socks.

These socks are based on the Generic Sock Toe-Up, Slip-Stitch Heel, Sock Formula by Sarah Keller (here's the Ravelry-Link) - but adapted to my size, with a stitch pattern for the main part of the sock that is carried over the heel as well - plus my favorite techniques for sock knitting.

This is NOT a complete knitting pattern in different sizes, but a description how I did it - especially the stitch pattern and carrying it through on the heel flap. If you want to knit them in another size, please use Sarah Kellers pattern to calculate your numbers.

Size and Gauge

The instructions are for a women's size 38 to 39 (i.e. 24 to 24,7 cm total foot length).

For other sizes, use the methods described in Sarah Kellers pattern (Generic Sock Toe-Up, Slip-Stitch Heel, Sock Formula by Sarah Keller (here's the Ravelry-Link)) - but make sure that the stitch count after the toe can be devided by 8.

Here, 19 rows of stockinette gave 5cm in height and 16 sts (stockinette) gave 5 cm in width. But If you've knitted socks before, you'll know which total stitch count to aim for.Any stitch count that can be devided by 8 is fine.

Materials

• about 60 grams of fingering weight yarn - I used Larneras Yarn Co Barefoot Fingering (here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page)
• 2.5 mm needles - I used Addi Crasy Trios, but dpns or circulars with magic loop will work as well

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Judy's Magic Cast-On is a technique that gives you live stitches on both sides of your needle - it is generally used for toe-up socks (e.g. in this pattern), but it can be used for other purposes as well. Here's a written description (from Knitty) and here's a YouTube-video by Cat Bordhi and another YouTube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Shadow Wrap Short Rows: as shown in this YouTube video by Lee Meredith. A video by Miriam Felton that shows how to do a heel with shadow wraps can be found here on YouTube. However, I pick up the stitches in a different manner. 
• Knitting the Shadow Wraps: In a knit row (i.e. you're knitting on the outside of your socks), you knit up to the stitch where you want to turn, and then knit into the stitch in the row below, i.e. you insert the right hand needle from the front into the stitch below (1 on picture below) the next stitch and pull your working yarn through (2 on picture below). Then you put the loop onto the left hand needle (creating a double stitch from the stitch below) - keeping the yarn on the back (3 on picture below). Then you turn and your yarn is now in front, tighten it to make sure that all stitches have the same size and start to purl in the opposite direction. This sequence (knitting int the stitch below and turning) will be called kbelow in the pattern.

• If you're in a purl row, you purl into the stitch of the row below, i.e. insert the right hand needle from the back into the stitch below and draw your yarn through and put the stitch onto your left hand needle - creating a double stitch. The yarn is in front while you're doing this. Turn your work. The yarn is now on the back of your knitting. Make sure that the stitch is as tight as the other stitches on your needles and start knitting in the opposite direction. This sequence will be called pbelow in the pattern.
• Picking up the double stitches: When you come to a double stitch you can simply knit / purl it as one. This can create quite thick stitches and small holes that might be uncomfortable and not really neat. That's why (on the knit side, outside of the sock) I knitted the double stitch as follows: slip the first loop of your triple stitch as if to knit and slip the second stitch of the triple stitch as if to knit. Slip these two stitches together back onto the left hand needle (i.e. each of the stitches is turned now). Now knit them together through the back loop - similar to an ssk.
• On the purl side I worked the triple stitch like a normal purl 3 together.
• To avoid holes it is quite important to draw your second loops quite tight when turning.
• kbf: a stitch that mirrors a kfb, there are different ways to do this - here's one YouTube video by Mostly Knitting that shows this. However, my preferred method is this: shown in a YouTube short by strickhexx (in German). Both methods give the same result.
• Picking up stitches from the gap: a method to avoid holes after finishing the heel flap
• m1k: make 1 knit stitch
• m1p: make 1 purl stitch
• sssk: slip slip slip knit (a left leaning double decrease)
• k3tog: knit 3 together (a right leaning double decrease)

Instructions

Sock 1

Toe

do a magic CO of 2x10 stitches 

Round 1: k10, place marker, k10
Rounds 2 - 5: k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1, slip marker, k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1 (-> 2x18 sts)
Round 6: k all
Round 7 = Round 2 (-> 2x20 sts)
Round 8: k all
Round 9 = Round 2 (-> 2x22 sts)
Round 10: k all
Round 11 = Round 2 (-> 2x24 sts)
Rounds 12 - 13: k all
Round 14 = Round 2 (-> 2x26 sts)
Rounds 15 - 16: k all
Round 17 = Round 2  (-> 2x28 sts)

Foot

Round 1: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end 
Round 2: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 1 - 2 23 more times - the stitches before the marker are on the upper side of the foot, the stitches after the marker are on the sole
A chart for this stitch pattern (4 stitches, 2 rows) can be found below.

//increases for heel gusset, i.e. continue stitch pattern on front and increase on sole
Round 49: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1
Round 50: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 49 -50 nine more times, now there are 28 sts before the marker (front) and 48 sts after the marker (sole)
During the last round, place a stitch marker after 24 stitches of the sole stitches (i.e. after the half of the sole stitches, this marker will be called MM (middle marker))

//turning the heel
Round 69: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    k to MM, k 8, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p8, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 6, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p6, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 4, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p4, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 2, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p2, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to end of round

You have now added an additional 8 sole stitches.

//heel flap
Round 70: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
   (a) k to MM, k13, ssk, turn, sl1, p to MM, p13 p2tog, turn
   (b) sl1, * k1 p1 k2 rep from * to 2 bef last ssk, k1, p1, ssk, turn, 
        sl1, * p1, k1, p2 rep from * to 2 bef last p2tog, p1, k1, p2tog, turn
   repeat (b) until there are only 28 sts left of the sole stitches
finish the round by: sl1, * k1 p1 k2 rep from * to 3 bef last ssk, k1, p1, k1

Cuff

There will be a gap between the sole stitches and the front of the sock. To avoid a hole, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap.

Round 71: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    there will be a gap here too, so again, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap, 
     k1, p1, k2 rep from * to 5 or 6 bef end (depending on how many stitches you picked up from the gap), k1, p1, k1, sssk (or ssk if you only picked up 1 stitch from the gap)
Round 72: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
    k3tog (or k2tog if you only picked up 1 stitch), k1, p1, k1, * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to end

Round 73: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to end 
Round 74: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to end

Repeat round 73 to 74 until your cuff is as long as you want it (I knitted a total of 28 cuff rows)

Ribbing

Ribbing-Round: * k1, p2, k1 rep from * to end 

Knit at least 11 Ribbing rounds then bind off in pattern - using a stretchy bind off

Since the stitch pattern is quite small, it will look symmetrical enough if you knit two socks as described above. However, I wanted them to be really (REALLY!) symmetrical, so I mirrored the stitch pattern for the second sock. This requires also a few other adjustments - that are described below.

Sock 2

Toe: see sock 1

Foot

Round 1: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end
Round 2: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 1 - 2 23 more times

//increases for heel gusset
Round 49: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k1, kfb, k to 2 bef marker, kbf, k1
Round 50: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, k to end

Repeat rounds 49 -50 nine more times, now there are 28 sts before the marker (front) and 48 sts after the marker (sole)
During the last round, place a stitch marker after 24 stitches of the sole stitches (i.e. after the half of the sole stitches)

//turning the heel

Round 69: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    k to MM, k 8, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p8, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 6, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p6, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 4, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p4, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to MM, k 2, m1k, k1, kbelow, p to MM, p2, mk1p, p1, pbelow
    k to end of round

//heel flap
Round 70: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
   (a) k to MM, k13, ssk, turn, sl1, p to MM, p13 p2tog, turn
   (b) sl1, * p1, k3 rep from * to 2 bef last ssk, p1, k1 ssk, turn, 
        sl1, * k1, p3 rep from * to 2 bef last p2tog, k1, p1, p2tog, turn
   repeat (b) until there are only 28 sts left of the sole stitches
   finish the round by: sl1, * p1, k3 rep from * to 3 bef last ssk, p1, k2

Cuff

There will be a gap between the sole stitches and the front of the sock. To avoid a hole, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap.

Round 71: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to marker, slip marker,
    there will be a gap here too, so again, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap, 
     k2, p1, k1 rep from * to 5 or 6 bef end (depending on how many stitches you picked up from the gap), k2, p1, sssk (or ssk if you only picked up 1 stitch from the gap)
Round 72: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to marker, slip marker, 
    k3tog (or k2tog if you only picked up 1 stitch), p1, k2, * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to end

Round 73: * k2, p1, k1 rep from * to end 
Round 74: * k1, p1, k2 rep from * to end

Repeat round 73 to 74 until your cuff is as long as you want it (I knitted a total of 28 cuff rows)

Ribbing: see sock 1

Chart

Stitch Pattern Chart

Windrädchen Fingerless Gloves

I love knitting fingerless gloves. They usually are a relatively small project, but they can have quite fun and interesting constructions. These ones are designed in triangles around the thumb. The knitting direction changes often, so it is a brilliant way to display some self striping or hand-dyed sock yarn. The name "Windrädchen” is the german word for pinwheel.

Since this pattern uses quite a few knitting techniques, it is NOT A BEGINNER PATTERN.

The knitting pattern for these fingerless gloves is available

• via Ravelry
• via Payhip
• via Lovecrafts

The pattern is 17 pages long and contains

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece in one size only – including 36 in-process photos (in a separate section at the end)
• an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction,
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques
• crochet CO (a CO at the edge of a knitted piece)
• pick up and knit – with an explanation on how to pick up from a slanted edge
• picking up stitches from a gap – to avoid holes

Gauge and Size

To get a certain variation in size I knitted one pair on 3mm needles (see picture on the right, top pair of mitts) and another one pair with on 2.5 mm needles (see picture on the right, bottom pair of mitts):

• With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece measures 18 cm in height, with a circumference of 15 cm at the top and 16.5 cm at the bottom.
• With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 27 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with  unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures 17 cm in height, with a circumference of 14 cm at the top and 15.5 cm at the bottom.

However, the pieces are all in garter stitch, so they are quite stretchy.

Materials

To knit these fingerless gloves you need the following materials

• 150 meters of fingering weight yarn weight yarn – I used
• Zwerger Opal - Schafpate 16 POTRÄÄÄH Linda - die Wasserratte (Colourway 11452) for the in process pictures
• Outstanding Silk Sock by Hooks and Yarn (in Amsterdam) for the title picture
• unlabeled solid coloured yarn for the striped pair 
• 3 mm knitting needles – I used 80 cm circulars as main needles to knit the thumb
• two additional 3mm knitting needles – I used dpns to knit the panels around the thumb
• a crochet hook that is a bit bigger than the knitting needles (I used a 4 mm hook) to get a stretchy crochet CO
• a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends 

Blümchen Hat

The “Blümchen hat” is knitted flat and in garter stitch – starting with a provisional CO. The word “Blümchen” is German for little flower. The flower pattern is created using intarsia technique. In the end the last row is grafted to the first creating a seamless look. 

It comes in four sizes and in two versions – beanie or with foldable brim.

Since this is an intarsia project with three colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly. Therefore, it is NOT a beginner pattern.

The pattern PDF is available via

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Lovecrafts

This pattern PDF is 12 pages long and contains 

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this hat – including 13 photos of the different stages and explanations on
• how to deal with the colour change of the setup row when undoing the provisional CO
• how to deal with colour changes while grafting in this pattern
• a pattern chart for one petal of the intarsia flower in the crown of the hat
• short version of this pattern 
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques
• provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
• grafting in garter stitch
• short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps 
• intarsia knitting 
• weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)

Gauge and Sizes

In unstretched garter stitch 42 rows/ 21 ridges gave 10 cm in height (if you stretch the piece about 34 rows / 17 ridges gave 10 cm in height). 21 stitches gave 10 cm in width. Since the hat is knitted sideways the height and number of rows defines the hat's circumference and the width of the stitches the height of the hat.

size	circumference (stretched)	circumference (unstretched)	height (w/o rim)	height (with rim)
S	54 - 55 cm	45 - 46 cm	18,5 cm	23,5 cm
M	56 - 57 cm	47 - 48 cm	19,5 cm	24,5 cm
L	58 - 59 cm	49 - 50 cm	20,5 cm	25,5 cm
XL	60 - 61 cm	51 - 52 cm	21,5 cm	26,5 cm

To knit this hat you need the following materials

• DK weight yarn in three colours:
• about 36 grams / 80 metres of C1 (background colour, without rim), or about 45 grams / 110 metres of C1 (background colour, with foldable rim)
• about 6 grams / 20 metres of C2 (contour colour)
• about 18 grams / 50 metres of C3 (colour of the petals)
• 3.5mm knitting needles
• scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO
• 1 stitch marker
• two tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends

Mitred Ribbing Mitts

Fingerless gloves are my favourite accessory by far and also my favourite knitting project. They are super versatile in terms of construction and usually a quick knit that can easily be carried around.

The ones here are knitted flat and in a knit/purl pattern which gives them their structured look. They start with a provisional CO, are knitted flat and end with grafting. Finally the side seams have to be sewn together.

Since this is a project with very short short rows and a few other techniques that can be fiddly at times. Therefore, it is NOT a beginner pattern.

  

The pattern PDF is available via

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Loveknitting 

The pattern PDF is 15 pages long and contains

• a schematic how the mitts are constructed
• written row-by-row instructions for knitting these fingerless gloves in one size – including 8 photos of the different stages
• a chart
• short photo tutorials of the following techniques that are needed to knit these mitts
• provisional cast-on and how to undo it
• short rows with shadow wraps
• crochet CO
• grafting in stockinette

Gauge and Sizes

sizes, unstretched

Because this stitch pattern scrunches up very much, i.e. the mitts are much wider (comfortably) when being worn, there are two photos on the right 

• one with the pieces unstretched (top)
• one with the pieces slightly stretched (bottom)

Both show two pairs of these fingerless glove – one knitted with 2.5mm needles (on top in beige yarn) and one knitted with 3mm needles (in red yarn).

The ones knitted in 2.5mm needles are

• unstretched about 13 – 14 cm in circumference and about 14 cm high
• stretched up to 16 cm in circumference and about 15 cm high

sizes, stretched

The pair knitted in 3mm needles are:

• unstretched about 14 – 15 cm in circumference and about 15 cm high
• stretched up 17 cm in circumference and about 16 cm high

The ones knitted in 2.5mm needles fit quite tight around my hands (my wrist circumference is 17 cm, my upper (finger) circumference of 15,5 cm). The pair knitted in 3mm needles fit more comfortably.

Knitting in garter stitch I had the following gauge (with an unblocked swatch):

• Using 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave  10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width.
• With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width.

Materials

To knit these fingerless gloves you need

• about 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn, I think it looks best in a semi-solid color
• 3mm needles, I used short dpns (or 2.5mm dpns)
• 2 stitch markers
• scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO and a crochet CO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Hana Coasters

One of my best knitting friends is a designer who has a completely different - gorgeous - knitting and design style (susstrickart: you can follow her on Ravelry or Instagram). She creates exquisitely tailored garments with beautiful details, while I prefer bold geometric patterns in smaller pieces or accessories. She recently said that it would be an interesting idea to cooperate - in that I would do some sort of flower motif that would be placed in the context of a well-finished garment ... and that got me thinking. So, I started to try out different ideas to knit square-shaped flower motifs and finally settled on this one.

Since this is a lovely little project on its own, I decided to publish this flower motif ("stand alone") as a pattern.

These motifs can be used as coasters - or (similar to crocheted granny squares) be embedded into bigger projects.

 

The knitting pattern for these is available via

• Ravelry
• Payhip
• Loveknitting

The pattern PDF is 8 pages long and contains 

• written row-by-row instructions for knitting this hat – including eight photos of the different stages and explanations on
• a pattern chart 
• short photo tutorials for the following techniques (that are needed to knit these pieces)
• provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
• grafting in garter stitch
• short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps 
• intarsia knitting 
• weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)

The following materials are used to knit these pieces

• EITHER: in fingering weight yarn
• yarn in two colours – a total about 6 grams (less than 25 metres) per coaster – about 15 metres for each colour
• 2.5mm knitting needles 
• a crochet hook of about 2.5mm (for the provisional CO)
• OR: in Aran weight yarn
• yarn in two colours – a total of about 15 grams (less than 30 metres) per coaster – about 15 metres for each colour
• 3.5mm knitting needles
• a crochet hook of about 3.5mm (for the provisional CO)
• scrap yarn of roughly the same weight as size than you knitting yarn
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

I knitted these pieces in two yarn weights:

• In fingering weight yarn the finished pieces measured 9.5 cm (edge length). The gauge (in unstretched garter stitch: 5 sts gave 2 cm in length and 5 ridges gave 2 cm in height.
• The pieces knitted in Aran weight yarn measured about 13 cm edge length. Here 11 sts gave 5 cm in width and 11 ridges 5 cm in height.

The photo below also shows that the piece also looks alright on WS because of the techniques (intarsia and carrying the yarn along).