Ojos de Bruja Scarf

Something warm, yet light for spring or summer evenings – easy to knit but with a certain “lacy” optic, the Ojos de Bruja scarf is the perfect accessory. It is knitted from side to side and all in garter stitch.

It is great for using the beautiful yarn in the wildest colors that has been in your stash for so long. Due to its short row construction and varying width, colors will be distributed nicely and color pooling isn’t very probable.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



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Fellow raveler mariarosaknits (from Fili & Colori - The Knitting Room) has written an Italian version of this pattern - it is available here.
She also made a YouTube video to explain the techniques (with "subtitles" both in english and italian) - here on YouTube. Thank you, this is great!

A Danish translation of this pattern was written by Marianne Holmen from strikkeglad.dk - it is available here.

Materials

• about 210 grams of fingering weight yarn, however, the pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to any yarn weight (therefore, gauge doesn’t really matter).
  The yarn that I used here (Jitterbug 400 by Colinette - colorway Jamboree) is listed on Ravelry as a fingering weight yarn - however, it has only 400 yards to 150 grams (whereas all the fingering yarn I used before has 400 yards to 100 grams) - that gave me a scarf of about 175 cm length, and 42 cm width at its widest point.
• 3.75 mm needles

Techniques

• Short rows with double stitches (German short rows, t+p): when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, make sure to knit it as one stitch (see also this YouTube video); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
• Backwards Loop CO: See this YouTube-Video from planetpurl.

• Both techniques (German short rows and backwards loop CO) are shown in mariarosaknits YouTube-video.

Instructions

CO12
Row 0 (WS): sl1, k to end

Increasing Section

For each section, you will have to calculate a number X, that tells the distance between the "t+p's . It is calculated as
    X = (number of stitches when beginning the section PLUS 3) DIVIDED BY 5

This looks more complicated than it actually is, for the first section X is 3 = (12+3)/5 ... and X will increase by one for every knitted section (i.e. for the second section X is 4, for the third section X is 5 etc.), because the stitch count increases by 5 for each section.

Rows 1, 2 (RS, WS): sl1, kfb, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 3, 4 (RS, WS): sl1, kfb, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 5, 6 (RS, WS): sl1, kfb, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end

Rows 7, 8 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 9, 10 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before last wrap t+p, k to end
Rows 11, 12 (RS, WS): sl1, k to end // turn // sl1, k to last 10 sts, BO5, k5
Rows 13, 14 (RS, WS): sl1, k4 // turn (do not wrap) // sl1, k4
Rows 15, 16 = Rows 13, 14
Rows 17, 18 = Rows 13, 14
Rows 19, 20 = Rows 13, 14
Rows 21, 22 (RS, WS): sl1, k4, CO7 (backwards-loop CO), k to end // turn // sl1, k to last before CO, ktbl, k7, ktbl, k to end
Rows 23, 24 (RS, WS): sl1, k to 2*Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
     ["2*X" = X multiplied by 2]
Rows 25, 26 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end

Row 27 (RS): sl1, k to end
Rows 28, 29 (WS, RS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 30, 31 (WS, RS): sl1, k to Xth st before last wrap t+p, k to end
Rows 32, 33 (WS, RS): sl1, k to Xth st before last wrap t+p, k to end
Rows 34, 35 (WS, RS): sl1, k to Xth st before last wrap t+p, k to end
Row 36 (WS): sl1: k to end

Repeat increasing section until you have reached about half of the desired length of your scarf.
(I knitted a total 13 increasing sections.)
Then knit the middle section once.

Middle Section

For the middle section X is calculated as for the increasing section - it will be one higher than it was for the last increasing section.

Rows 1, 2 (RS, WS): sl1, kfb, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 3, 4 (RS, WS): sl1, kfb, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 5, 6 (RS, WS): sl1, kfb, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end

Rows 7, 8 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 9, 10 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before last turn, t+p, k to end
Rows 11, 12 (RS, WS): sl1, k to end // turn // sl1, k to last 10 sts, BO5, k5
Rows 13, 14 (RS, WS): sl1, k4 // turn (do not wrap) // sl1, k4
Rows 15, 16 = Rows 13, 14
Rows 17, 18 = Rows 13, 14
Rows 19, 20 = Rows 13, 14
Rows 21, 22 (RS, WS): sl1, k4, CO5 (backwards-loop CO), k to end // turn // sl1, k to last before CO, ktbl, k5, ktbl, k to end
Rows 23, 24 (RS, WS): sl1, k to 2*Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 25, 26 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end

Rows 27, 28 (RS, WS): sl1, ssk, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 29, 30 (RS, WS): sl1, ssk, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 31, 32 (RS, WS): sl1, ssk, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end

After finishing the middle section (once), knit start with the decreasing sections.

Decreasing Section

The number X for this section is the number of stitches minus 2, and that result divided by 5.
For the first decreasing section, it will be as high as for the last increasing section - decreasing by one for each section.

Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to end
Rows 2, 3 (WS, RS): sl1, k to 4*Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 4, 5 (WS, RS): sl1, k up to and including last wrapped stitch, k X sts, t+p, k to end
Rows 6, 7 (WS, RS): sl1, k up to and including last wrapped stitch, k X sts, t+p, k to end
Rows 8, 9 (WS, RS): sl1, k up to and including last wrapped stitch, k X sts, t+p, k to end
Row 10 (WS): sl1: k to end

Rows 11, 12 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 13, 14 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before last wrap t+p, k to end
Rows 15, 16 (RS, WS): sl1, k to end // turn // sl1, k to last 12 sts, BO7, k5
Rows 17, 18 (RS, WS): sl1, k4 // turn (do not wrap) // sl1, k4
Rows 19, 20 = Rows 17, 18
Rows 21, 22 = Rows 17, 18
Rows 23, 24 = Rows 17, 18
Rows 25, 26 (RS, WS): sl1, k4, CO5 (backwards-loop CO), k to end // turn // sl1, k to last before CO, ktbl, k5, ktbl, k to end
Rows 27, 28 (RS, WS): sl1, k to 2 *Xth st before end, t+p, k to end
Rows 29, 30 (RS, WS): sl1, k to Xth st before end, t+p, k to end

Rows 31, 32 (RS, WS): sl1, ssk, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 33, 34 (RS, WS): sl1, ssk, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end
Rows 35, 36 (RS, WS): sl1, ssk, k to end // turn // sl1, k to end

Repeat decreasing section as many times as you knitted the increasing section (there should be only 12 sts on your needles now). Bind off.

Weave in ends and block.

This pattern has been featured on the Knitting Love Monthly Link Party! Thank you!

Shaped Random Lace Scarf

Since the Random Lace Scarf came out so well, I thought it might be a interesting to explore the random approach a bit further still.

This time, I tried it with the shaping of my Seifenblasen Lace Scarf - but with random lace panels. So far it looks OK, but a bit crumpled. Looking forward to seeing it blocked ... (but this will take a while ...)

 

Random Lace Scarf

After knitting a few e-book sleeves in a random lace technique (see blogpost here), I decided that this could be explored a bit further and with a bigger project - a lacy scarf for summer.

This tutorial explains how to knit a scarf in the random lace technique. The result is a beautiful and unique piece of lace to wear on summer evenings.

Please note that this is not a pattern in the classic sense with detailed stitch by stitch and row by row sequences, but a set of instructions and tips that allow you to knit a scarf and achieve a similar result.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



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What do you need?

• Some yarn that blocks well, i.e. yarn with a high percentage of wool. I recommend using fingering weight or lighter yarn and knitting needles that are slightly bigger than what your yarn calls for.
  I used about 100 grams fingering weight yarn and 3.75mm needles.
  Since this is meant to be worn in summer I recommend to use anything between lace and sport weight.
• The ability to count - and the patience to count your stitches again and again. Since everything looks quite similar while you're knitting it, it can be a bit of a boring project ... if you need something to give you instant gratification, this project might not be the right one for you. Furthermore, you really need to concentrate or to recount really often - so it's not a project to take to your local Stich'n'Bitch.
• The stamina to go on knitting a piece even though it will look really strange and crumpled while you're knitting it ... but it will miraculously turn beautiful when it's on the blocking board.

Stitches that you should know

I've linked to a few YouTube videos (not mine!) that show how to knit the following stitches.

For RS I used these stitches (stitches with a knit-look)

• k2tog (right-leaning decrease): https://youtu.be/ptZsAT770i8
• ssk (left-leaning decrease): https://youtu.be/RGwcYW3GG3M
• centered double decrease (or sl2tog, k1, p2sso): https://youtu.be/en3Yq2er4RI
• yo (increase): https://youtu.be/3QbFhh8u4L8
• yo twice (double increase): https://youtu.be/8NEAw0qtR70
• k yo k into one stitch: https://youtu.be/yAQxguVIRYY

For WS I used these stitches (stitches with a purl-look, i.e. in order to have a knit-look on RS)

• p2tog (looks like a right-leaning decrease on RS): https://youtu.be/M7RtzEDw6Xc
• p2togtbl (looks like a left-leaning decrease on RS): https://youtu.be/aLI4_u3T9Fo
• p3tog (double decrease): https://youtu.be/6ob7wn18MJI
• yo (increase on the purl side): https://youtu.be/_6zqcAJtORY
• yo twice (double increase on the purl side)

Basically, you can use any stitch that produces a holey increase and any decrease.

How to Knit the Scarf

CO50 sts and start with a WS row.

Start any WS row by slipping the first stitch purlwise and any RS row by slipping the first stitch knitwise. This will give a nice regular edge

On WS knit the stitches at random that I have listed under WS of the "Stitches that you should know" section - similarly, on RS knit the stitches at random that I have listed under RS of that section.
It is important to make sure that at the end of the row, you have the same number of stitches than you had at the beginnig (50 sts).

• I counted only the increases and decreases, i.e. starting from zero, adding one for each increase and substracting one for each decrease ... and finishing the row with a total of zero. But even this is a concentration exercise ...
• If you want a neater pattern, do one increase and corresponding decrease next to each other. For a more organic or slanted look, do a few increases and only then the necessary decreases. I would advise, however, not to do this too much, since then your piece will be askew.
• To make the pattern as holey as in the pictures, I usually made 10 to 15 yo's per row (and the corresponding number of decreases).
• I guess it is important to not overthink this technique, i.e. just to try making increases and decreases without any plan - and let yourself be surprised by the outcome.
• It might be a good idea to try this technique on a smaller object, such as a doily (or a sleeve for your e-book)

Go on knitting until the scarf has the desired length, then bind off loosely.
Please note, that the scarf will grow on the blocking board.

Weave in ends and block! (Blocking is really important here.)

Motivation Tip: 
While knitting the piece you don't actually see your progress. You can measure it with a tape measure but you don't see it in the number of repeats or anything visible or easily countable. This can be a bit frustrating (... it certainly was for me). To keep myself motivated, when I started for the day I would put in a stitch marker (safety pin) to mark my starting point so that I could easily see my progress for the day.

This blogpost was featured at Oombawka Design Link & Share Wednesday - Link Party 93:

Monster Tooth Scarf

Tired of wearing wintry gray? In need of something that looks strong and colorful? Then knit yourself an antidote with this nice wide scarf for spring in beautiful colors with a strong graphic pattern.

This scarf is knitted (nearly) only in garter stitch; the graphic effect is achieved with short rows.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



There are two versions of instructions – one (short and descriptive) that just gives the gist of what is done when. And one with rows and stitches spelled out.

Personally, I prefer instructions given in the short style (or rather that’s the way I started thinking about the pattern), but I know that instructions like this can confusing for others and are uncommon. That’s why there is a normal version as well.

Please note, that the scarf is not quite symmetrical.

Material

• about 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in Color 1 (light green on the photos) 
• about 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in a contrasting color (Color 2, purple on the photos)
  (the yarn used for this project is Malabrigo Sock - Colors 037 Lettuce and 141 Dewberry.)
• a circular knitting needle (3mm) or a long double pointed needle 
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Short rows with double stitches (German short rows, t+p): when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, make sure to knit it as one stitch (see also this YouTube video); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).

Instructions (Telegram Style)

• Start with 14 sts (in Color 1) and knit one wedge, slip sts to other end of needle and add 4 sts in Color 2.
• For wedges in Color 1 always start from one end of the needle; for wedges in Color 2 always start from the opposite end of the needle, i.e. slip stitches to the other end of your needles between knitting wedges.
• All stitches are knit stitches – except the first rows of Color 2 wedges (purl stitches).
• For all wedges: Start with a long row (until 5 sts before end), then knit each row 2 sts shorter, until there are only 6 or 7 sts left.
• During the first half, knit increases at the side of every 6th row (i.e. every 3rd ridge) of wedges in Color 2.
• When your piece is about half knit a wedge in Color 2 without increases or decreases
• Afterwards, knit decreases at the side of every 6th row (i.e. every 3rd ridge) of wedges in Color 2.
• End with a wedge in Color 1.

Instructions (Detailed)

Wedge 1 (Color 1)
CO14
Row 0: sl1, k to end
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 2 before end, t+p, k to end
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 sts long (i.e. 6 on RS, 5 on WS)

Wedge 2 (Color 2)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) and CO4 with Color2 (see picture No. 1), then turn needle
Ridge 1: sl1, p to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
(Your piece should now look similar to the one in picture No. 2.)
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to 2 before end, kfb, k
Continue knitting ridges 1 to 3 until the last row is only 6 or 7 stitches wide, the last ridge does not have to be a ridge 3.

Wedge 3 (Color 1)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 1
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 or 7 sts long - after a few ridges, your piece should look similar to picture No. 3

Wedge 4 (Color 2, with increases every 3rd ridge)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 2
Ridge 1: sl1, p to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to 2 before end, kfb, k
Continue knitting ridges 1 to 3 until the last row is only 6 or 7 stitches wide, the last ridge does not have to be a ridge 3.

Repeat wedges 3 and 4 until the piece measures about half the desired length of your scarf. Then knit on odd-numbered wedge (i.e. in Color 1).

Picture No. 4 shows how your piece should look after knitting wegde 3 and 4 twice.

Middle Wedge (Color 2, no increases or decreases)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 2
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 or 7 sts long

Wedge 6 (Color 1)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 1
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 or 7 sts long

Wedge 7 (Color 2, with decreases every 3rd ridge)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 2
Ridge 1: sl1, p to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to 3 before end, ssk, k
Continue knitting ridges 1 to 3 until the last row is only 6 or 7 stitches wide, the last ridge does not have to be a ridge 3.

Repeat wedges 6 and 7 until you have knitted the same number of wegdes 6 and 7 than you did of wedges 2 and 3. End with an odd-numbered wedge (i.e. in Color 1). Bind-off all Color 1 stitches in the last row, then bind off the other stitches in Color 2.
It is possible that you don't end with the number of stitches you started with - that's because the decreasing wedges have less ridges than the corresponding increasing wedges.

Little Rectangles Summer Scarf

Here, in the middle of Europe, spring is just starting. So here's a thin and lightweight scarf that's just right for the season.

This scarf is made up of little garter stitch rectangles - that are connected as you go, making it an example of modular knitting (if you want to see my first modular pattern, it's here: Queen of Diamonds Scarf).

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



A german version of this pattern is available here.

Die deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.

A crochet version of this pattern is available on my blog as well. It is called Rettangolini Scarf.


Materials:

• about 150 grams fingering weight yarn
• 3.25 mm needles (I used small dpns, because you only ever have 12 sts on your needles)
• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techniques:

• Knitted Cast-On: See this Youtube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Backwards Loop Cast-On: See this Youtube-video by planetpurl.
• Picking up stitches from the side: See this Youtube-video by Very Pink Knits.

General Construction:

The scarf is knitted in layers, each layer consists of 5 garter stitch rectangles that are 12 stitches wide and 8 ridges (i.e. 16 rows) high - see picture below.

With the exception of the set-up layer, at the end of rectangles 1 to 4 there are 8 bind-off stitches and 4 stitches left over. These 4 start the new rectangle, together with 4 newly cast-on stitches and 4 stitches picked up from the side of the corresponding rectangle in the layer below. At the end of rectangle 5, all but one stitch are bound-off - this leftover stitch will be the basis of the first rectangle for the next layer.

Instructions:

First layer (set-up layer)

Rectangle 1:
CO12 (with knitted cast-on)
Row 1: k
Rows 2-14: sl1, k to end
BO8 sts

Rectangle 2:
Row 1: Knit the 4 sts that are left over from the last rectangle, CO8 (with knitted cast-on)
Row 2: k8, ktbl, k to end
Rows 3-15: sl1, k to end
BO8 sts

Repeat rectangle 2 twice (i.e. knit it a total of three times).

Rectangle 5 (or last rectangle in one layer)
Row 1: Knit the 4 sts that are left over from the last rectangle, CO8 (with knitted cast-on)
Row 2: k8, ktbl, k to end
Rows 3-14: sl1, k to end
Row 15: BO11 sts -> you have one stitch left on your needles


Second layer (and next layers)

Rectangle 1:
Move the leftover stitch to the other end of your needle (i.e. don't turn, but start the CO on this side)
CO7 sts with knitted cast-on -> you have now 8 sts on your needles (see picture A)
Row 1: k7, ktbl, pick up and knit 4 sts from the side of the last rectangle (see picture B)
Rows 2-15: sl1, k to end
Row 16: BO8 sts

Rectangle 2 to 4:
Row 1: Knit the 4 sts that are left over from the last rectangle, CO4 (with backwards loop cast-on) and pick up 4 sts from the side of the next rectangle in the layer below (i.e. for rectangle 2 connect to rectangle 4 in the layer below, for rectangle 3 to rectangle 3 etc. - see picture in General Construction section)
Row 2: sl1, k2 ktbl, k4, ktbl, k to end
Rows 3-15: sl1, k to end
BO8 sts

Rectangle 5:
Row 1: Knit the 4 sts that are left over from the last rectangle, CO4 (with backwards loop cast-on) and pick up 4 sts from the side of the next rectangle in the layer below
Row 2: sl1, k2 ktbl, k4, ktbl, k to end
Rows 3-15: sl1, k to end
Row 15: BO11 sts -> you have one stitch left on your needles

Repeat 2nd layer until you're scarf is long enough.
In the very last rectangle of the very last layer bind off all stitches in row 15.

Weave in ends and block gently.

Yarn
The yarn that I used for this project is Jawoll Color (colorway 132.0458) by Lang Yarns. It was quite a challenge to find the right project for this yarn - as described in this blogpost and this blogpost.
I'm really pleased with how it turned out.


This post was featured at Pinbellish Pinparty 34 at purfylle.com and at the New Tuesday PINspiration Linkparty No. 6. Thanks!

   

Queen of Diamonds Scarf

This scarf is an example of modular knitting. It's made out of diamond-shaped modules form a longish rhomboid. To add a little spice there is a hole in the middle of each diamond.

As with most examples of modular knitting, it's a great way to show off variegated yarn.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






A Danish version of this pattern can be found here at strikkeglad.dk. Thank you, Marianne Holmen for this translation (and many others :) ... a list of all translations of my patterns can be found in this blogpost.


Materials

• 140 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3.25mm needles
• 11 sts markers
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

• open6 = k1, slip st back to left hand needle, and pass the next 6 sts over this st, yo twice, k1
• close6 = slip one yo off the needle, into the remaining yo do: k1 yo k1 yo k1 k1tbl
• Short rows with double stitches (German short rows, t+p): when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
• Knitted Cast-On: http://youtu.be/IzVy8fRfOw0
• Stretchy Bind-Off: http://youtu.be/cGHItYwr1us

Construction

The scarf is knitted in diamond-shaped modules. Picture 1 shows the construction of the scarf and how the diamonds add up to form a parallelogram - the yellow arrows indicate the order in which the diamonds are knitted. (Click on the picture to enlarge it.)

Picture 1: Construction of Queen of Diamonds Scarf

All diamonds marked with "n" (normal diamonds) are knitted as follows:
R1: k25 t+p
R2: k23 t+p
R3: k21 t+p
R4: k19 t+p
R5: k17 t+p
R6: k15 t+p
R7: k13 t+p
R8: k11 t+p
R9: k1 open6 k1
R10: k1 close6 k3
R11: k11 t+p
R12: k13 t+p
R13: k15 t+p
R14: k17 t+p
R15: k19 t+p
R16: k21 t+p
R17: k23 t+p -> don't turn, but start next diamond

Picture 2 shows a diagram of how one diamond is knitted. The pattern is written in a way that stitch markers are not necessary, but I found it helpful to use them anyway to see easily where the boundaries and the middle of the current diamond are.
Please note that in row 9 - when starting the hole - the stitch marker has to be removed and in row 10 - when the hole is closed - it has to be placed again.

Picture 2: How to knit one Diamond

Depending on where you are in the knitting process, the directions for the first and last rows might be slightly different, i.e. they are variations of the diamonds marked with "n". These diamonds are marked with numbers.


Instructions

The numbers in brackets refer to the numbers in circles in picture 1.

Layer 1
Diamond (1):
CO 24 with a knitted cast-on
Row 1: k24
Row 2: sl k22 t+p
knit rows 3-17 of normal (n)-diamond

Layer 2
Diamond (2):
CO12 with knitted cast-on,
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond

Diamond (3):
k12, CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond

Layer 3
Diamond (4):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond

Knit one (n)-diamond

Diamond (5):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond

Layer 4
Knit a diamond (2)
Knit two (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (3)

Layer 5
Knit a diamond (4)
Knit three (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (5)

Layer 6

Knit a diamond (2)
Knit four (n)-diamonds

Diamond (6):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12

Layer 7
Diamond (7):
Row 1: k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12, k12

Knit four (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (5)

Layer 8
Knit a diamond (2)
Knit four (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (8)

Diamond (8)
Knit rows 1 to 17 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 18: BO12

Repeat Layers 7 and 8 until your scarf feels long enough - except for the end.

Layer 9
Knit a diamond (7)
Knit four (n)-diamonds

Diamond (9):
don't turn, k12 (i.e. to end)
CO12 with knitted cast-on
Row 1: k12 pm k13 t+p
Knit rows 2 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12

Layer 10
Diamond (10):
Knit rows 1-16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12, k12

Knit three (n)-diamonds
Knit a diamond (8)

Layer 11
Knit a diamond (7)
Knit two (n)-diamonds



Diamond (11)
Knit rows 1 to 16 of normal (n)-diamond
Row 17: BO12

Layer 12
Knit a diamond (10)
Knit one (n)-diamond
Knit a diamond (8)

Layer 13
Knit a diamond (7)
Knit a diamond (11)

Layer 14
Diamond (12)
Knit rows 1-16 of normal (n)-diamond
BO all stitches

Weave in ends and block.

Through Thick and Thin

This light-weight "garter-stitch
only" scarf - knitted from side to side and shaped with short row triangles. The difference in texture is achieved by switching needle sizes between
triangles.

After blocking the finished scarf measures about 170 cm from side to side and 24 cm at its widest point.

Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.
A German version of this pattern can be found here.



This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





Materials

• about 80 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm knitting needles
• 6mm knitting needles
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

Aside from knit stitches, all you need to know is how to knit short rows. Currently, my favorite technique are "German short rows": when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
Here's a video that shows how to work double stitches in garter stitch: http://youtu.be/PsBkXPmjgaE


Instructions

With 3mm needles CO10.

Set-up wedge (3mm needles):

Generally in 3mm-wedges, rows are shortened by 4 sts, i.e. each row is 4 sts shorter than the one before.
Row 1 (RS): k to end
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 3 sts before end (i.e. there are still 3 stitches on your left-hand needle), t+p (=turn and pull, see Techniques section)
Row 4 (WS): k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 4 sts before last double stitch; t+p
Row 6 (WS): k to end
Row 7 (RS): k to end
Row 8 (WS): k to end
Row 9 (RS): k to end
Switch to 6mm needles

6mm-Wedge (6mm needles)
Generally in 6mm-wedges, rows are shortened by 3 sts, i.e. each row is 3 sts shorter than the one before.
Row 1 (WS): k to end
Row 2 (RS): k to end
Row 3 (WS): k to 2 before end t+p
Row 4 (RS): k to end
Row 5 (WS): k to 3 before last double-stitch t+p
Row 6 (RS): k to end
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until there are 3 sts or less on the row back (RS row)
Knit 3 rows - switch to 3mm needles

3mm-Wedge (3mm needles) - Increasing
During the increasing part, at the beginning of a 3mm wedge each 6th sts is doubled.
Row 1 (RS): * k5 kfb repeat from * until there are 5 sts or less left, k to end
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 3 before end t+p
Row 4 (WS): k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 4 before last double-stitch t+p
Row 6 (WS): k to end
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until there are 4 sts or less on the row back (WS row)
Knit 3 rows - switch to 6mm needles

Repeat 6mm-wegde and 3mm-wegde (increasing) 11 times (i.e. you have 12 3mm-wedges and 11 6mm-wedges)

Knit another 6mm-wedge

3mm-Wedge (3mm-needles) - Neutral
Row 1 (RS): * k5 kfb repeat from * until there are 5 sts or less left, k to end
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 3 before end t+p
Row 4 (WS): k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 4 before last double-stitch t+p
Row 6 (WS): k to end
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until there are 4 sts or less on the row back (WS row)
Knit 2 rows
Last row (RS): *k 5 ssk repeat from * until there are 5 sts or less left, k to end
Switch to 6mm needles

6mm-Wedge (6mm needles) (No change to the increasing part)
Row 1 (WS): k to end
Row 2 (RS): k to end
Row 3 (WS): k to 2 before end t+p
Row 4 (RS): k to end
Row 5 (WS): k to 3 before last double-stitch t+p
Row 6 (RS): k to end
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until there are 3 sts or less on the row back (RS row)
Knit 3 rows - switch to 3mm needles

3mm Wedge (knitted with 3mm needles) - Decreasing
During the decreasing part, at the end of a 3mm wedge each 7 sts are reduced to 6.
Row 1 (RS): k
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 3 before end t+p
Row 4 (WS): k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 4 before last double-stitch t+p
Row 6 (WS): k to end
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until there are 4 sts or less on the row back (WS row)
Knit 2 rows,
Last row: *k 5 ssk repeat from * until there are 5 sts or less left, k to end
Switch to 6mm needles

Repeat 6mm-wedge and 3mm-wedge (decreasing) until there are only 10 stitches on your needles.
Knit one more 6mm-wedge

3mm Wedge (knitted with 3mm needles) - Last Wedge
Row 1 (RS): k
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 3 before end t+p
Row 4 (WS): k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 4 before last double-stitch t+p
Row 6 (WS): k to end
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until there are 4 sts or less on the row back (WS row)
Knit 2 rows,
Last row: bind off loosely

Weave in ends and block.

If you follow the instructions above, your stitch count will increase up to the neutral wedge as well as the number of rows per wedge - afterwards both will decrease. The table on the right lists the number of stitches and ridges that should appear.