Pieces of Eight Mitts

It was a topological challenge for me to get these  mitts right.  These fancy fingerless gloves are knitted in one piece (no yarn cutting involved) beginning at the thumb. The "Eight”-Shape is achieved by increasing in the first part of a row, and decreasing in the second part.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Dansk / Danish: A danish version is available here on strikkeglad.dk or here as a PDF. With big thanks to MarianneHo (Ravelry name). Mange tak!

Dutch / Nederlands: Carolien (or mijikke on Ravelry) has provided a Dutch translation of the Pieces of Eight Mitts. Hartelijk bedankt! You can find it here on my blog.

Japanese / 日本語: A video tutorial in japanese has been provided by Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと). It can be found on YouTube here: Part 1, Part 2

Deutsch / German: Two german versions of these have been written by Renate Schattschneider:

• for fingering weight yarn (link to ravelry)
• for sports weight yarn (link to ravelry)

Eine deutsche Version von diesen Handschuhen wurde von Renate Schattschneider erstellt:

• für 4-fädiges Sockengarn (Ravelry-Link)
• für 6-fädiges Garn (Ravelry-Link)

A crochet version of this pattern - called Octavo Fingerless Gloves - is available here.

Techniques
 A knitter who wants to knit these mitts should know the following techniques:

• k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch  and p1, yo, p1 into the same stitch (i.e. double increases)
• Cable cast-on midwork: As shown in this video.
• Three-needle bind-off – as shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU
• Grafting: stockinette & garter stitch.
• How to knit a circle – since the effect is done with circle increases and decreases, it’s helpful if the general idea is known: In general a circle is knitted as follows:
  CO8 and join in round
  Round 1 and all odd numbered rounds: k
  Round 2: *k1 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 2nd stitch is doubled) (-> 16 sts)
  Round 4: * k2 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 3rd stitch is doubled)(-> 24 sts)
  Round 6: * k3 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 4th stitch is doubled) (-> 32 sts)
  Round 8: * k4 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 5th stitch is doubled) (-> 40 sts)
  … The formula should clear by now, i.e. that you increase by 8 stitches every other row. It also means that the distance between the "doubled" stitches increases by one in each of the increase-rounds. The same formula will be used when constructing the mitts - increasing around the thumbs and decreasing at the lower wrist part. If you do the increases always at the same spot a pattern (maybe even corners) will become visible; to achieve a more circular look I started the increases at a randomized stitch in each increase row.
• Picking-up a selvage stitch and joining it at right angles to your knitting (similar to entrelac knitting): at the end of the WS row wyif a stitch is picked up from the side. After turning the work, this stitch is knitted together with the first stitch of the RS row. A slightly different way of doing it is shown here - ending up with the same result, i.e. joining the last stitch with a "stitch" picked up from the edge. Please note, that in case of these mitts the join is not side-to-side, but side-to-cast-on-row
• Furthermore, you should be comfortable with the idea to “smooth out” certain differences in stitch counts. It's no big deal if there is one stitch too many - you can always fix it in the next row by decreasing one.
• Please note, that the mitts are mirror inverted – to achieve this, the one mitt is turned inside out at one point (at this point RS becomes WS and WS becomes RS). 

The picture on the right shows where the techniques are used - referring also to the work steps as described in the instructions.


Non-Standard Abbreviations

• kyok: k1, leave on needle, yo and knit again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
• pyop: p1, leave on needle, yo and purl again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
• w+t: Wrap and turn - a technique for knitting short rows. It is shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.

Materials

• 35 grams of fingering weight yarn (a list of the yarns I used is given at the end of this post)
• a set of 3mm dpns and a 3mm circular needle – I changed needles throughout the project
• 2 stitch markers
• tapestry needle (for kitchener stitch and to weave in ends)

Instructions

The picture on the left illustrates how your knitting should look after completing some of the steps.

NOTE: Please note that the sequences to be repeated don't always match the number of stitches left (e.g. it might say "* kfb k6 repeat from *", but there are only 4 stitches left) - that's OK. Just continue with the sequence and stop when you run out of stitches (in case of the example above, just knit the kfb and knit the 3 stitches to the end).

First Mitt

Thumb
Step 1: CO18
Step 2: Knit 8 rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Step 3: Knit one round as follows: “k1, p1, k1, pyop, k1, p1, repeat from *  (there should be 24 stitches on your needles)
Step 4: Knit 5 more rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Only the thumb (steps 1 to 4) is knitted in the round, after that everything else is knitted back and forth in rows (steps 5 and following).

Step 5:
The stitch you're at right now will be called “starting point” during this step.
Row 1 (RS): k20 place marker (“marker 1”) k4, cast on 4 stitches (with cable cast on), place marker (“marker 2”), cast on 70 stitches
Row 2 (WS): k back to starting point; pick up and knit one or two stitches from gap between the  last stitch and the recently cast-on stitches; wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the first of the recently cast-on stitches (just as you’d do for entrelac).
Now the circle increases and decreases are started: there will be increases up to marker 1, plain knitting between the two markers, and decrease from marker 2 to the end of row.
Row 3 (RS): k2tog (the stitch you just picked up and the first stitch of the row), *k2 kfb repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k8 repeat from ** to end
Row 4 and all other even rows until the next step (WS): k to starting point, wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the cable cast on
Row 5 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k1 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k4 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 7 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k3 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k7 ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 9 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 11 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k4 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 13 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k1 kfb k6 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 15 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k7 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 17 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k2 kfb k7 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 19 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k5 kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 21 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k8 kfb k3 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 23 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), k to marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end

Step 6:
There should now be 3 stitches between marker 2 and the end – adding up to 11 together with the stitches from between the markers – these 11 stitches will be on one needle for the three-needle bind-off. With another needle pick-up 11 stitches from the edge, do a three-needle bind-off over these 11 stitches. Make sure the bind-off is done from the WS. Remove the markers.
If the stitch number doesn’t match exactly, move one stitch from one needle to the other, or use one stitch from the other side of marker 1.
After the three needle bind off, knit back to starting point counting the stitches. There should be 93 stitches.


Step 7: First Set of short Short-Rows to widen the wrists
Place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (RS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.
(The stitches you did before the BO will not be knitted until they are grafted during part 10 - you can leave them on your needles (especially if you're using long circulars) or you can put them on a stitch holder. As you can see from the photos, I just left them where they were.)

Step 8: Second Set of Short Rows to widen the wrists
Still on the RS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9: Widen the mitt
You now knit several rows of garter stitch until the mitt is wide enough to fit your hands, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1 k
Row 2 (RS): sl1 k
Row 3 (WS): sl1 k
While you're knitting the first rows during step 9 count your stitches and compare it with the stitch number on the other side (i.e. the ones you left after step 7), if the numbers are not equal, increase of decrease to get an equal number of stitches (decreases are best done somewhere close to the marker).
Repeat rows  2 and 3 six more times (or until the mitt fits).

Step 10: Graft sides together
Cut yarn leaving a tail of about 1 meter. With tapestry needle graft sides together in garter stitch.


Second Mitt

The instructions for the second mitt are similar to the first one. Except that at one point, the mitt is turned inside out in order to mirror-invert the curves. Only the differences to the first mitt are listed here.

Knit Steps 1 through 5 as described for the Left Hand mitts except the steps listed below.


Step 3: Knit one round as follows: * k1, p1, kyok,  p1, k1, p1 repeat from *


Step 6:
Turn mitt inside out. Everything on your mitt that was RS is now WS (and vice versa). Make sure to do the three-needle bind off from the NEW WS.

Step 7:
The first short rows will be added at the opposite side, i.e.place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.

Step 8:
Here also the sides are mirror inverted (compared to the first mitt), i.e.

Still on the WS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9:
Knit the same number of garter stitch rows you knitted for the first mitt.

Step 10:
Graft in stockinette stitch.

Yarns

The "eight"-effect comes out best when using variegated yarn, here's the list of yarns I used for the mitts in the photos.

• The green-blue ones in the first and last picture are knitted with sock yarn from a German discounter (Aldi Süd). However, the yarn is listed at Ravelry - it's colorway 555.
• For the red-yellow-green ones, I used Schoeller+Stahl Fortissima Mexiko (colorway 252)
• The neon ones (in the step-by-step pictures) is Regia Fluormania Color - colorway 7184.

Winding Mitts

These "garter stitch only" mitts are
constructed from two rhomboids - the thumb panel and a main part.
Short row triangles in wind their way around your wrists creating a unique pattern.






This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.


Materials:

• A total of 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours
  - Main Colour (MC) – white on the photo
  - Contrast Colour (CC) – dark on the photo
• 3mm needles (straight needles for thumb panel and main part – dpns for finishing the thumbs)
• Stitch holders or scrap yarn
• Tapestry needle

Techniques or Abbreviations:

• Short Rows: a tutorial on short rows can be found here: http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html

•  w+t: wrap and turn - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4GxFvi4KD0 
• pick up wraps - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xaz41JTkLc

• Picking up stitches from the side: Without your working yarn, insert the needle into the front leg of the edge stitch from back to front. A photo how this looks like, is shown in a post regarding the short wave mitts. Here’s a Knitty-article that explains picking up stitches in detail (also the difference between "picking up" and "picking up and knit"): http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TT.html

• Backwards loop cast-on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojOU7Bco4dM

• Grafting in Garter Stitch: Cut the yarn but leave a long enough tail (I usually take about 5 to 6 times the length of the seam). Put the yarn on a tapestry needle. For setting up insert tapestry needle purlwise into the first stitch - first on the front needle, then on the back needle. * Now insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch, then insert it purlwise in the next stitch but leave that on the needle. Do the same on the back needle - then repeat from * until there are no more stitches on your needles.
  If my explanation is too wordy, I found a video that shows it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAEIogIli6o

The picture below shows the general construction of the mitts. As you can see, left hand mitt and right hand mitt are mirror inverted. That's why there will be two different descriptions - one for each mitt.

Left mitt (with left-leaning thumb panel)

Thumb panel

With Main Colour CO9
R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
R4 (RS): sl1 ssk k4 kfb k1
Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

Now the thumb increases start: In short,  you make 12 increases (6 on each side of the thumb) distributed over 14 rows, while keeping up the increases and decreases at the sides. But, here it is in detail:

R53: s1 k1 place marker k2 place marker k to end
R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R55: sl1 k to end
R56: sl1 ssk,  k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R58: s1 k to end
R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R60: sl1, ssk, k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
R61: sl1, k to end
R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R63: sl1, k to end
R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 ssk, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 2 sts before end, kfb k1
R65: sl1, k to end
R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
R68: s1 ssk k4 kfb k1
R69-71: sl1 k to end
Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle

Still with MC, pick up and knit 47 stitches from the left side of the thumb panel, you have now  48 stitches on your needle, your working yarn is now on the lower edge of the mitt

Main part

With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

Row 1 (CC, RS): kfb, k to 2 sts before end, k2tog (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k31 w+t
Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k15 w+t
Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 2 sts before end, k2tog
Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
Row 9 (MC, RS): kfb, k31 w+t
Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
Row 11 (MC, RS): k17, w+t
Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6.) After a few repeats your mitt should look as shown in the photo.


With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


Thumb

Move the thumb stitches from the stitch holder to two dpns. Pick up and knit 4 stitches from above the thumb gusset. Knit the stitches that were on the stitch holders up until the last stitch. p2tog (this closes a potential the gap between the stitches from the stitch holder and the newly picked up stitches), p2, p2tog (to close the gap on the other side of the thumb). Purl to the end of round.

Round 3: k
Round 4: p

Repeat until 3 more times (or until the thumb is long enough). Bind off.

Weave in ends.


Right Mitt (with right-leaning thumb panel)

Basically, this mitt is the mirror image of its partner, so increases and decreases (especially at the edges) are exchanged. Furthermore, the thumb is started at a different point. But here are the instructions in detail. The parts that differ from the left mitt have been underlined.

Thumb Panel

With Main Colour CO9
R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
R4 (RS): s1 kfb k4 k2tog k1
Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

The thumb increases are similar to the ones on the other mitt - the only difference is the starting point.

R53: s1 k4, place marker, k2, place marker, k to end
R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R55: sl1 k to end
R56:  s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to endR58: s1 k to end
R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R60: s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
R61: sl1, k to end
R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R63: sl1, k to end
R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 kfb, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1
R65: sl1, k to end
R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end

R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
R68: s1 kfb, k4, k2tog, k1
R69-71: sl1 k to end
Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle

Main part

With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

Row 1 (CC, RS): ssk, k to 1 st before end, kfb (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k33 w+t
Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k17 w+t
Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 1 sts before end, kfb
Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
Row 9 (MC, RS): ssk, 28 w+t
Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
Row 11 (MC, RS): k13, w+t
Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6)

With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


Finish the thumb as described for the left hand mitt.

Twisted

Not quite sure whether the twist looks "as designed" or just as if the mitt doesn't fit ...

Cable Experiment Mitts with Latvian Twist

A friend asked me whether I could knit a pair of my Cable Experiment Mitts for her - in dark red with some orange ...  Without thinking much, I started the first mitt with a latvian twist at the lower edge - only to realize later that it would be difficult to the same thing on the upper edge. I ended up, knitting a seperate piece - the same latvian twist I did as the lower edge - and grafted it to the top.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

So, here's how I did it in more detail:

• I cast on 56 stitches as explained in the original pattern. 
•  But instead of joining them in the round, I knitted 6 rows of garter stitch (2 rows in the contrast colour (orange), 2 rows in the main colour (red) and 2 rows in the contrast colour. I then cut the yarn of the contrast colour.
• Using the main colour, I knitted 7 stitches and turned the rest of the stitches around the left-hand needle (that's the latvian twist - for more information see the links below), I repeated this to the end of the row and then joined the piece in the round.
• Leaving out the ribbing rows of the original pattern, I then started to knit the pattern repeats (rows 1 to 20) and followed the pattern (thumb gusset and all).
• When I had finished I cut the yarn (of the main colour) leaving a tail long enough for grafting.
• On a different needle I cast on 56 stitches and knitted 6 rows of garter stitch (2 in CC, 2 in MC and 2 in CC) - as on the lower edge I knitted (in MC) 7 stitches, turned the not-yet-knitted stitches around the left-hand needle and repeated that process to the end of the row.
• I then grafted the edge to the mitt, wove in the ends and started the second mitt :)

Some links:

• Here's a photo tutorial showing the latvian twist, however it is shown in stockinette stitch whereas I did it in garter stitch, but the principle (knit a few stitches, turn the rest of your stitches around the left-hand needle once) remains the same.
• Here's a video tutorial showing the latvian twist - again in stockinette. 
• Grafting in stockinette (kitchener stitch) is explained in this tutorial or shown in this video.

Pieces of Eight

Ever since I saw the Infinity Cardi-Wrap by Kristine Omdahl, I wanted to do something similar with fingerless gloves. It took me a three attempts to finally get it right.

Nostalgia Brioche Cowl

I don't know whether it's because of the colours or of the pattern, but with its wavy edge this cowl reminds me somehow of "olden days" - that's why I called it "Nostalgia". It's a brioche pattern - it's reversible and both sides are attractive.

The finished cowl measures 22 cm in height and 116 cm in circumference.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials:

• 80 grams of DK weight yarn Colour A
• 80 grams of DK weigh yarn in Colour B
• 4.5 mm circular knitting needles
• 12 stitch markers
• a tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techniques:
I used the terminology (brioche notation) from briochestitch.com.
However, here are some short (!) explanations in my own words. If these are too short, please refer to the original link.

• brsskpsso = slip 1 stitch (i.e. two loops), brk2tog (i.e. 3 loops), psso -> decrease by 2 stitches
• brk3tog = bkr2tog, return stitch to left needle and pass next stitch over -> decrease by 2 stitches
• brkyobrk = bark 1 stitch (and don't slip it off the left needle), yo, and bark the same stitch again -> increase by 2 stitches
• sl1yof = slip 1 stitch while doing a yarn over -> stitch that's not knitted but just slipped in the brp-round
• yfsl1yo = put yarn in front and slip 1 stitch while doing a yarn over -> stitch that's not knitted but just slipped in the brk-round

Some videos showing two-colour brioche in general

• video part 1 (cast on),  
• video part 2 (general two-colour brioche pattern repeat)

Instructions:

CO 216 stitches using Colour B - or any other number of stitches divisible by 18. Put in stitch markers between each 18 stitches.

Knit one round in Colour B (setup round)

Round 1a (Colour A - first time): *sl1yof p (repeat from * to end)
Round 1a (Colour A - next times): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 1b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo,  6 times: (brk yfsl1yo), brkyobrk yfsl1yo (repeat from * end)

(Note for all brk-rounds: the instructions between stars (*) denote one pattern repeat (i.e. the space between two stitch markers))

Round 2a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 2b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo, 5 times: (brk yfsl1yo),  brkyobrk yfsl1yo, once: (brk yfsl1yo) (repeat from * to end)

Round 3a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 3b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo, 4 times: (brk yfsl1yo),  brkyobrk yfsl1yo, twice: (brk yfsl1yo) (repeat from * to end)

Round 4a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 4b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo, 3 times: (brk yfsl1yo),  brkyobrk yo, 3 times: (brk yfsl1yo) (repeat from * to end)

Round 5a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 5b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo, twice: (brk yfsl1yo),  brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 4 times: (brk yfsl1yo) (repeat from * to end)

Round 6a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 6b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo, once: (brk yfsl1yo),  brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 5 times: (brk yfsl1yo) (repeat from * to end)

Round 7a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 7b (Colour B): *brsskpsso yfsl1yo, brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 6 times: (brk yfsl1yo) (repeat from * to end)



Round 8a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 8b (Colour B): *brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 6 times: (bkr yfsl1yo) brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Round 9a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 9b (Colour B): *brk yfsl1yo, brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 5 times: (bkr yfsl1yo) brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Round 10a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 10b (Colour B): *twice: (brk yfsl1yo), brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 4 times: (bkr yfsl1yo) brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Round 11a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 11b (Colour B): *3 times: (brk yfsl1yo), brkyobrk yfsl1yo, 3 times: (bkr yfsl1yo) brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Round 12a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 12b (Colour B): *4 times: (brk yfsl1yo), brkyobrk yfsl1yo, twice: (bkr yfsl1yo) brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Round 13a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 13b (Colour B): *5 times: (brk yfsl1yo), brkyobrk yfsl1yo, once: (bkr yfsl1yo) brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Round 14a (Colour A): *sl1yof brp (repeat from * to end)
Round 14b (Colour B): *6 times: (brk yfsl1yo), brkyobrk yfsl1yo, brk3tog yfsl1yo (repeat from * to end)

Repeat Round 1a - 14b once more, then repeat round 1a - 7b

Last round (Colour B): *k1 brp1 (repeat from * to end)
Bind off using Colour B.
Weave in ends.

Tomatoes and Coffee - Short Socks

After knitting a pair of Charade socks (pattern by Sandra Park on Ravelry), I started to "research" other sock types and came across the "sweet tomato heel" technique - and I wanted to try it :)
(Another type of heel would be the yo-yo heel, ... maybe I'll try that one later ...)

So, these short socks use the sweet tomato-heel technique by Cat Bordhi (http://catbordhi.com/) and a stitch that's called coffee bean pattern (Kaffeebohnenmuster).

This is not a complete pattern, but just a rough sketch.




Techiques:

• Tomato Heel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRc3309JUyc . In short, the heel is constructed of three short row wedges.

• The "Coffee Bean Pattern" consists of 4 rows.
  Row 1: p1 k2 p1
  Row 2: p1 k1 yo k1
  Row 3: p1 k3 p1
  Row 4: p1 sl1 k2 psso p1

• Toe decreases, as described in this Knitty article (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring05/FEATsocks101.html, section 9) or shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4bEhqXgOIU

Instructions:
With 3.25mm needles CO60
With 2.5mm needles knit 10 rows of ribbing
Switch to 3mm needles and knit 3 sets of coffee bean pattern
Knit tomato heel (while knitting the full rounds, continue coffee bean pattern on the front third)
Continue the foot, knitting coffee bean pattern on the front third and stockinette on the backside (2 thirds).
When foot is long enough, do toe decreases and graft leftover stitches.

Brioche in Montreux

I called this cowl "Brioche in Montreux" because I knitted part of it on the way to the Christmas market in Montreux.
A two-colour brioche technique is used with three cabling strands distributed around the cowl. Since it's a brioche pattern, it's reversible - both sides are equally attractive.

After blocking it had a circumference of 60 cm and a height of 29 cm.





This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials

• 30-40 grams of fingering weight yarn (Colour A)
• 30-40 grams of fingering weight yarn (Colour B)
• 3.5mm circular needles
• 3 stitch markers
• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Abbreviations

• The abbreviations brk & yfsl1yo, brp & sl1yof are taken from briochestitch.com. 
• C8F: make a front cross cable over 8 stitches, i.e. put 4 stitches (here this means on a cable needle and leave them in front of your piece, knit the next 4 stitches from the left needle (in this case the 4 stitches are knitted: brp, sl1yof, brp, sl1yof), then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle (i.e.  brp, sl1yof, brp, sl1yof,).
• C8B: make a back cross cable over 8 stitches, i.e. put 4 stitches on a cable needle and leave them in the back of your piece,  knit the next 4 stitches from the left needle (in this case the 4 stitches are knitted: brp, sl1yof, brp, sl1yof), then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle (i.e.  brp, sl1yof, brp, sl1yof).

Techniques

• Two-colour brioche knitted in the round: video part 1 (cast on), video part 2 (pattern repeat) - direct links to YouTube 
• Link to an article that explains two-colour brioche

Instructions
CO120 stitches with colour B (white on the photo), placing a stitch marker after 40sts, 80 sts and 120 sts.
Join in round

Round 1a (Colour A): * p1 sl1yof (repeat from * to end)
Round 1b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end)
 
Round 2a (Colour A): * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * to end of round)
Round 2b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end of round)

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 4 times


Round 5a (Colour A): * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * a total of 3 times), C8F, +brp1 sl1yof (repeat from + to next marker);
    * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * a total of 3 times), C8F, +brp1 sl1yof (repeat from + to next marker);
    * brp1 sl1yof (repeat from * a total of 3 times), C8F, +brp1 sl1yof (repeat from + to end of round)
Round 5b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end of round)

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 3 times

Round 9a (Colour A): brp 1 sl1yof, C8B, C8B *brp1 ysl1yof (repeat from * to next marker);
     brp 1 sl1yof, C8B, C8B *brp1 ysl1yof (repeat from * to next marker);
     brp 1 sl1yof, C8B, C8B *brp1 ysl1yof (repeat from * to next end of round)
Round 9b (Colour B): * yfsl1yo brk (repeat from * to end of round)

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 3 times

Round 13a = Round 5a
Round 13b = Round 5b

Repeat rounds 2a and 2b a total of 5 times - you have now completed round 18b

Repeat from round 5a to round 18b a total of 5 times, ending with round 17b - or until the cowl has reached your desired height.

Bind off in a p1k1-pattern using colour B. 

Weave in ends - and block.

Triangulation Wrist Warmers

Knitted in one piece without cutting the yarn, these mitts formed first in a triangular then diagonal shape. They are first knitted back and forth, then in the round, then back and forth and in the end in the round again. Since they are knitted in one piece, you won't have to cut your yarn and you'll only have two ends to weave in per mitt.

Since they don't cover much of the hands, they are rather wrist warmers than fingerless gloves. 

About 4 years after publishing this pattern, Bernadette from Törtchens Blog tried to translate this pattern into German (thank you!!). And during the course of this translation, she discovered quite a few mistakes. So, in October 2017 I duly corrected them.

The German translation is available here.
Eine deutsche Übersetzung findet sich hier. (erstellt von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog)

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.


Materials

• about 40 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 2.5 mm needles
• 3 (different) stitch markers

Techniques:

• Knitted cast-on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nJKC2xT0Q4

Construction

These mitts are constructed in a different manner of the normal in-the-round loom-style fingerless gloves. They are started at the lower edge with only 4 stitches CO. Then a triangle is knitted flat (part I); when the lower edge is wide enough, both ends are joined in the round and knitted upwards diagonally (part 2). Part 3 is knitted flat with decreases at the upper end, while part 4 is knitted in the round again, drecreasing again until thumb width is reached (see picture on the right).



Instructions

Part I - knitted flat

CO4
Set-up row: k2 place marker k2 (this marker will be called middle marker)
Row 1: kfb; k to st before marker kfb; slip marker; kfb k to last stitch; kfb
Row 2: k
Repeat until there are 60 sts on your needles (or until the lower edge is wide enough to fit around your wrists).
End with row 1,
then join in round - place marker (this marker will be called end marker)


Part II - in the round

Round 1: k
Round 2: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat these 2 rounds a total of 5 times

Round 11: p
Round 12: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 11 and 12 a total of 5 times

Round 21: k
Round 22: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 21 and 22 a total of 5 times

Round 31: p
Round 32: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 31 and 32 a total of 5 times

Round 41: k
Round 42: k2tog; k until 1 st before middle marker; kfb; slip marker; kfb; k until 2 sts before end marker; ssk
Repeat rounds 41 and 42 a total of 5 times

Afterwards k to middle marker - remove middle marker; and TURN WORK.
Now there is only one marker left.


Part III - knitted flat

Row 1: k to last stitch before end – if you want to avoid a gap at the upper outer edge, you can now connect the first and last stitches of that row like this: slip the last stitch to the right needle and - using a crochet hook - draw the working yarn through the first stitch of that row, put the loop on the left needle, move the last (not yet knitted) stitch back to the left needle, knit the two stitches together (see picture on the left). Alternatively, just knit the last stitch.

Row 2: ssk; k until the last two stitches; k2tog
Row 3: k
Row 4: ssk; k until two stitches before marker; ssk; slip marker; k2tog; k until two stitches before end; k2tog
Row 5: k
Repeat rows 2-5 rows twice more more.

Row 11: p
Row 12:  ssk; k until two stitches before marker; ssk; slip marker; k2tog; k until two stitches before end; k2tog
Row 13: p
Row 14: ssk; k until the last two stitches; k2tog
(if you started part 2 at 60 stitches, you should now have 40 sts on your needles)

Place marker (this will be called M2) and add 20 stitches by using a knitted cast on – place marker (this is the new „round end marker“) join in round. The picture on the right shows the naming and placement of the markers. I opted to distribute the stitches on three needles instead of using markers.



Part IV & thumb - knitted in the round

Round 1: k to M2: ssk *k1 p1 (repeat from * to two sts before) marker k2tog slip marker (this creates a small ribbing at the upper edge to prevent it from rolling)
Round 2: k to M2: ssk *p1 k1 (repeat from * to two sts before) marker k2tog slip marker (this creates a small ribbing at the upper edge to prevent it from rolling)
Round 3 = Round 1

Round 4: ssk k to two stitches before marker k2tog, repeat once more; you're now at M2, ssk *p1 k1 (repeat from * to two sts before) marker k2tog slip marker
Round 5: ssk k to two stitches before marker k2tog; repeat three times
Round 6: k all

Round 7 = Round 5
Round 8 = Round 5
Round 9 = Round 6

Repeat rounds 7 to 9 once more

 – if you started part 2 at 60 stitches, you should now have 18 sts on your needles.

For the thumb, knit 9 rounds of k2 p1-ribbing, bind off in pattern in 10th round.
Weave in ends.

Make two.

Zimtstern Mitts

Since Advent season starts this weekend, here's a "christmassy" pattern. It's called "Zimtstern" because its look reminds me of the traditional Christmas cookie of the same name (the cookies have cinnamon in them ("Zimt") and are formed as a star ("Stern") - here's a recipe (not mine!)).

The Zimtstern mitts are started at the thumb then increased - they combine techniques used in the hexagon mitts and the circle mitts. The stitches in star shape are added as surface crochet (or surface slip stitches) in between the knitted rows. Because of the unusual construction and since surface crochet is fiddly work, the pattern is not really suited for beginners.






This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.


German / Deutsch: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung wurde von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog erstellt. Vielen lieben Dank. Details dazu in diesem Blogpost.

Danish / Dansk: A danish translation was written by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) and is available here. Hjertelig tak


Construction

These mitts are knitted in 5 parts: they are started at the thumb and then "grow" in a hexagon (knitted in round and refered to as part 1 and 2 in the pattern),  a bind-off of one side of the hexagon creates part of the upper edge the mitts; they then grow bigger in an open hexagon until the edge of the hand is reached (that's part 3 - knitted flat). During part 2 and 3 rows of surface crochet slip stitches are added to create the star pattern. A three needle bind-off creates a seam along the edge of the hand. Now the lower edge of the mitt is lopsided. To even it out a series of short rows is knitted that also include some decreases (part 4 - knitted in the round). With an even lower edge the shaft is lengthened a bit and ribbing is added (part 5).

As with the patterns mentioned above, these are knitted in one piece, i.e. no yarn is cut which minimizes the weaving in of ends.

Materials

• about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn - preferably variegated - the yarn I used is called Corolli by Schulana (link to the yarn's Ravelry page)
• 3mm dpns (even if you prefer the magic loop technique you will need a 3rd needle for a three-needle bind-off)
• 2.5mm crochet hook
• 6 stitch markers

Gauge / Size

• 7 sts and 9 rows = 2cm x 2cm
• the finished mitt is about 20 cm high (highest point) with 15 cm circumference at the lower edge (ribbing) and about 14 cm at the top

Techniques and Non-Standard Abbreviations

• Surface Crochet or surface slip stitches: Using a crochet hook, you make slip stitches through your knitted fabric. The photo on the right shows how it looks when adding surface slip stitches to a knitted fabric. Here's a video and here's a tutorial that both show surface crochet.
  
  
• Three-Needle Bind-Off: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU
• Short Rows in the Round (and t+ky) I learned short rows in the round with this helpful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCgycxLce94; however, I ended up doing the pick-ups differently.
  
  "Wrapping" of the Stitches
  Basically, when you're on the RS, you do wrap the working yarn around the next stitch (from front to back) and then turn your work, i.e. the "normal" wrap and turn (w+t).
  When you are on the wrong side you slip the last stitch, turn your work with the yarn in front, wrap the yarn around the RIGHT needle and knit the slipped stitch. That creates a sort of double-stitch - one half of it has to be knitted together with the stitch in front when you're picking up the stitches. In the pattern, throughout the pattern I will call this stitch, t+ky (short for "turn and knit w/yarn-over").
  
  Picking-up
  When encountering a w+t, I turned the wrapped stitch on the needle, picked up the wrap from the front and knitted the stitch and the wrap together through the back of the loop.
  When reaching the stitch BEFORE the “double-stitch”, I turned this stitch and knitted it together with the yo through the back of the loop.
  

• “Make One Purl”-Stitches (a video that shows these stitches):
• mk1p right-leaning: make one purl stitch by inserting the needle from the back in the bar between the two stitches and purl
• mk1p left-leaning: make one purl stitch by inserting the needle from the back in the bar between the two stitches and purl through the back of the loop

Instructions

Part I - Thumb

CO18
Join in round
Rounds 1-10: *k1tbl p2 (repeat from * till end of round)

Round 11: *k1tbl p1, mk1p, p1 (repeat from * till end of round)
Rounds 12-15: *k1tbl p1 (repeat from * till end of round)
Round 16: *place marker, k1tbl p1 k1tbl p1 (repeat from * till end of round)

(You have 24 sts on your needles)

Part II - Increases in the Round

Round 0: k
Round 1: *slip marker, k1, mk1l, k to marker; mk1r  (repeat from * till end of round) (after this round you have increased by 12 sts)
Round 2: k
Round 3: k
Round 4: add surface crochet, put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle
Round 5: pass loop from crochet hook over the first stitch; knit first stitch; k to end, k to end

Repeat rounds 1-5 a total of 4 times

Then repeat them once more but add a "mini-ribbing" (k1 p1) and bind-off in the last sixth of the hexagon, i.e.:


Round 21: *slip marker, k1, mk1l, k to marker; mk1r  (repeat from * till end of round)
Round 22: k
Round 23: k until the last marker k1, *k1 p1 (repeat from *) until last stitch, k1
Round 24: apply surface crochet, put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle
Round 25: pass loop from crochet hook over the first stitch; knit first stitch; k until the last marker binding off in pattern (i.e. k1, *k1 p1 (repeat from *) until last stitch, k1 - this creates the upper bind-off.

(Now you have 70 sts (84 - 14 BO sts) on your needles.)

The diagram shows where to insert the surface crochet stitches during part 2.

 When adding surface crochet,

• use your working yarn to add slip stitches to the knitted surface, i.e. insert the crochet hook into the first live stitch on the needle and pull the loop, then insert the crochet hook into the stitch below the second stitch and make a slip stitch (see photo), insert the crochet hook into the second stitch below the 3rd stitch on the needle and make a slip stitch; 
• continue slip stitches "one to the left, one down" until you have reached the middle between two markers, 
• then go up again, i.e. make a slip stitch into the stitch one to the left and one above; continue until you have reached a live stitch on the needle - this should be a stitch just after a marker
• when you have pulled a slip stitch through the stitch below the last stitch of the round, put the loop back on the left knitting needle and pass it over the first stitch of the round.
• make sure to keep your slip stitches loose, i.e. don't pull them too tight, in order to keep the fabric stretchy
• insert your knitting needle between the legs of the stitch - except when you are at the upper edge (i.e. life knit stitches on your needle), here you draw the slip stitch through the life stitch.

The diagram shows where to put the slip stitches - it shows one sixth of a round or the space between two stitch markers.

Part III - Increases knitted flat

Complete the BO by slipping the last stitch over the first stitch and continue the pattern flat.

Row 1 (RS): * k to marker mk1r slip marker, k1, mk1l  (repeat from * until the last marker), k to end (-> after this row you have increased by 8 stitches)
Row 2 (WS): p
Row 3 (RS): k
Row 4: apply surface crochet (on RS), put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle
Row 5 (RS): k2tog (loop from crochet hook and first stitch on knitting needle); k to end

Row 6 (WS): * p to 1 st before marker, mk1p left-leaning, p1, slip marker, make1p right-leaning (repeat from * until last marker), p to end
Row 7 (RS): k
Row 8 (WS): p
Row 9 : apply surface crochet (on RS), put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle
Row 10 (WS): p2tog  (loop from crochet hook and first stitch on knitting needle); p to end

Repeat rows 1-7 once again.
(You should now have 102 sts on your needles; 4 times increases of 8 sts per row (4*8 = 32), added to the 70 already on the needles: 70+32 = 102)

When you're applying the surface crochet in part 3, you don't start through the 1st live stitch on the needles but below (see picture). In the first two instances (rows 4 and 9), this is not a problem because you only need to insert your crochet hook one or two stitches below, i.e. you don't need to draw the yarn too far. Afterwards (row 14) you can bring your yarn down to the starting point of the surface crochet by doing one surface slip stitch on the WS of the mitts.
On the diagram below you can see that even though you have finished row 3 for the 2nd time, the first crochet slip stitch would be 3 stitches below the first live stitch.

Hold the RS togehter and do a three-needle bind-off 26 stitches. Place a marker ("end-marker") on the back needle and put the last stitch on the back needle: then turn the mitts inside out, so that the RS shows.


Part 4 - Short rows to even out the shaft

As you can see in the photo, the lower edge of the mitts is now lopsided. This can be evened out by knitting a wedge of short rows.

This wedge is highest around end-marker and gets flatter towards the sides, i.e. short rows are knitted around the end-marker that get shorter by 2 stitches each row. At the same time decreases are made around the end-marker in order to finish with 45 stitches before part 5.

After the three-needle BO you have 51 sts on your needles (102-26-26+1, the +1 is the one stitch is left after the BO that is placed on the back needle).

Row 1: (RS) mk1, k25 w+t
   (WS) sl1, p21 p2tog p1, slip marker, mk1p, p23 t+ky
   (RS) k to 3 before end marker, ssk
(-> increases and decreases cancel each other out in this row (still 51 sts), the mk1-stitches are used to avoid holes between the stitch left over from the three-needle-BO and the next stitch on either side)
Row 2: (RS) k22 w+t
   (WS) sl1 p19 p2tog p1, slip marker, p2togtbl, p20 t+ky
   (RS) k2 to end marker (-> decrease by 2 sts, 49 sts)
Row 3: (RS) k19 w+t
   (WS) sl1 p16 p2tog p1, slip marker, p2togtbl, p17 t+ky
   (RS) k2 to end marker (-> decrease by 2 sts, 47 sts)
Row 4: (RS) k16 w+t
   (WS) sl1 p13 p2tog p1, slip marker, p2togtbl, p14 t+ky
   (RS) k2 to end marker (-> decrease by 2 sts => there should be 45 stitches on your needles, however, they may be difficult to count because of the double stitches created with the short rows.
Row 5: (RS): k13 w+t
   (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p12 t+ky
   (RS): k to end marker
Row 6:  (RS): k11 w+t
   (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p10 t+ky
   (RS): k to end marker
Row 7: (RS): k9 w+t
   (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p8 t+ky
   (RS): k to end marker
Row 8: (RS): k7 w+t
   (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p6 t+ky
   (RS): k to end marker
Row 9: (RS): k5 w+t
   (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p4 t+ky
   (RS): k to end marker


Knit one round picking up all stitches.

Part 5 - Lengthen the shaft and ribbing
Knit 5 more rounds.
Then do 12 rounds of k1tbl, p2-ribbing.
Bind off (loosely) in pattern (or use your favourite stretchy bind-off).

Brioche

Inspired by a KAL (or rather its German Version StriMiMi - Strick mit mir) in the facebook-group of nadelspiel.com, I've started to dabble around in two-colour brioche.

Using to skeins of fingering weight yarn and 3.5mm needles, I did two colour brioche in the round (with a CO of 120 sts). Cabling is added at three points around the cowl ...

Here's a list of videos that explain the technique:

Two-colour brioche knitted flat:

• the original eliZZZa video (nadelspiel.com) - in German
• the same video in English (direct link to YouTube - nadelspiel's English site is called knitaholics.com - it's a great resource of knitting and crochet videos)

Two-colour brioche knitted in the round:

• video part 1 (cast on), video part 2 (pattern repeat) - direct links to YouTube 

Further information about brioche stitch:

• an article that explains two-colour brioche