Short Rows and Old Lace

This might become my first ever lace pattern ... of course with some short rows between the lacy bits.

Let's knit a Pouf!

During a knitting retreat of our local Stitch and Bitch group, we had a class to knit a pouf, held by Anne-Catherine of Knit Kit (or knitsandthings.com - her english Website).

I haven't finished it yet - knitting with 6 strands of cotton is more of a workout than actual knitting :) - but I am quite proud of what I've already made.

 

If you're interested, you can buy the pattern here. 

Oszilla Scarf

Knitted from side to side the pattern of this garter-stitch only scarf combines two curves. One curve between the endpoints and oscillating around it a sine curve of short row stripes.

When finished and laid out straight, the scarf will measure about 150cm on the shorter (C1-only-)side.






This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.  

Materials

• about 80 grams of fingering weight yarn in colour 1 (C1, blue on the pictures)
• about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn in colour 2 (C2, white on the pictures)
• 3.25mm needles (straight or circular)
• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)
• stitch markers (safety pins or similar) may be useful to keep track of the row you’re in

Techniques (i.e. stitches other than plain garter stitch)

• kfb: knit front & back, i.e.  make two stitches out of one

• ssk: slip one stitch knitwise, slip a second stitch knitwise, insert left needle into both stitches and knit, i.e. knit two stitches together with a left leaning slant

• w+t: wrap and turn - my preferred method for short rows (a short row tutorial can be found here).
  With garter stitch you can decide whether to pick up the wrapped stitches or not. I chose to pick them up - I even used a slightly more complicated way because I wanted to hide the wrap that was in last row's colour. First I turned the wrapped stitch, then I picked up the front part of the wrap and placed it on the needle, and finally I knitted it through the back loop. Whatever you choose, it's best to stay consistent throughout the project.

Instructions

The instructions are given in garter stitch ridges rather than single rows. Basically, with C1 rows are just knitted, and with C2 rows are short rows knitted to the marker (plus/minus a few stitches) – increases and decreases are made in both colours for the shaping of the scarf. Increases and decreases at the beginning of the C2-rows create the wavy shape – increases and decreases in the middle (somewhere around the marker) widen or narrow the scarf. The increases/decreases that change the width of the scarf (as opposed to creating the waves) are put in boldface.

The picture on the right hand side gives an overview about the parts of the pattern.

Set-up rows
CO4
Row 0 (C1): k2 pm k2, turn, k to end
Ridge 1a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): k to m, w+t, kfb, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1):  k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): k to m, w+t, kfb, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 81 (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end

Part I - Increases on both sides of the marker
Ridge 1a (C2): kfb, k to 1 st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, kfb, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k2, kfb, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): kfb, k to 4 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to 4 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to 4 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, kfb, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k2, kfb, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 8a (C2): ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 9a (C2): ssk, k to st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 10a (C2): ssk, k marker, w+t, kfb, k to end
Ridge 10b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to end
Ridge 11a (C2): ssk, k to marker, sm, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 12a (C2): k to marker, sm, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 13a (C2): k to marker, sm, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 14a (C2): kfb, k to marker, w+t, kfb, k to end
Ridge 14b (C1): k to end, turn, k to last st before marker, kfb, k to end
Ridge 15a (C2): kfb, k to last st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 15b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 16a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts beforme marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 16b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, remove marker, k2, place marker, k to end
Knit these ridges a total of three times.

Part II - Increases on the C1-only side
Ridge 1a (C2): kfb, k to 1 st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k2, kfb, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): kfb, k to 4 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to 4 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to 4 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k2, kfb, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 8a (C2): ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 9a (C2): ssk, k to st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 10a (C2): ssk, k marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to end
Ridge 11a (C2): ssk, k to marker, sm, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 12a (C2): k to marker, sm, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 13a (C2): k to marker, sm, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 14a (C2): kfb, k to marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 14b (C1): k to end, turn, k to last st before marker, kfb, k to end
Ridge 15a (C2): kfb, k to last st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 15b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 16a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 16b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, remove marker, k2, place marker, k to end
Knit these ridges a total of four times.

Part III - No increases, no decreases
Ridge 1a (C2): kfb, k to 1 st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): kfb, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): ssk, k to 1 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 8a (C2): ssk, k to marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 9a (C2): ssk, k  marker, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 10a (C2): ssk, k marker, k2, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 11a (C2): ssk, k to marker, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 12a (C2): k to marker, sm, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 13a (C2): k to marker, sm, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 14a (C2): kfb, k to marker, k2 w+t, k to end
Ridge 14b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 15a (C2): kfb, k to marker, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 15b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 16a (C2): kfb, k marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 16b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Knit these ridges a total of three times.

Part IV - Decreases on the C1-only side of the marker
Ridge 1a (C2): kfb, k to 1 st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): kfb, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k1 ssk, k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): ssk, k to 1 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): ssk, k marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn,  k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, k to end
Ridge 8a (C2): ssk, k marker, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 9a (C2): ssk, k marker, k2, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 10a (C2): ssk, k marker, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 11a (C2): ssk, k to marker, k4, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11b (C1): k to end, turn,  k to 5 sts before marker, ssk, k to end
Ridge 12a (C2): k to marker, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 13a (C2): k to marker, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 14a (C2): kfb, k to marker, k2 w+t, k to end
Ridge 14b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 15a (C2): kfb, marker, remove marker, k1, w+t, place marker, k to end
Ridge 15b (C1): k to end, turn, k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k to end
Ridge 16a (C2): kfb, k  marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 16b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Knit these ridges a total of four times.

Part V - Decreases on both sides of the marker
Ridge 1a (C2): kfb, k to 1 st before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): kfb, k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): kfb, k to 3 sts before marker, w+t, ssk, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn, k to marker, k1 ssk, k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to 2 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1): k to end, turn k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): ssk, k to 1 sts before marker, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): ssk, k marker, w+t, ssk, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn,  k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, k to end
Ridge 8a (C2): ssk, k marker, k1, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 9a (C2): ssk, k marker, k2, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 10a (C2): ssk, k marker, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 11a (C2): ssk, k to marker, k4, k1, w+t, ssk, k to end
Ridge 11b (C1): k to end, turn,  k to 6 sts before marker, ssk, k to end
Ridge 12a (C2): k to marker, k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 13a (C2): k to marker, k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 14a (C2): kfb, k to marker, k3 w+t, k to end
Ridge 14b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 15a (C2): kfb, marker, k2, w+t, ssk, k to end
Ridge 15b (C1): k to end, turn, k to 4 sts before marker, ssk, k to end
Ridge 16a (C2): kfb, k  marker, k1 w+t, k to end
Ridge 16b (C1): k to marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, k to end, turn, k to end
Knit these ridges a total of three times.

Last ridges
Ridge 1a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 1b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 2a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 3a (C2): k to m, w+t, ssk, k to end
Ridge 3b (C1): k to end, turn, k to st before marker, ssk, sm, k to end
Ridge 4a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 5a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 6a (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Ridge 7a (C2): k to m, w+t, ssk, k to end
Ridge 7b (C1): k to end, turn, k to st before marker, ssk, sm, k to end
Ridge 81 (C2): k to m, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8b (C1): k to end, turn, k to end
Bind off the last 4 stitches in C1.



Tips

• I found it useful to place a stitch marker (safety pin) after finishing ridge 16, then counting from there.
• Stay consistent as to how to cross your yarns when changing colours; I always put the new (to be used) yarn UNDER and behind the old yarn (see photo).

Train Knitting

The new scarf is coming along nicely.

Nautilina Scarf

This crescent shaped scarf is knitted
all in garter stitch from side to side. Its shaped by short rows and only grows very slowly in width, all increases are made in the middle of the piece.

When finished and laid out straight, the scarf will measure about 160cm on the shorter (C1-only-)side.

Compared to the first idea (as shown here) quite a few changes to the design have been made.

Nautilina is the spanish word for Nautilus (see on Wikipedia) – and I think the scarf’s pattern looks a bit similar.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials:

• a total of 115 to 120 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours – I used 80 grams of variegated yarn as main colour (C1)  and 25 grams of my contrast  colour (C2 – black in the pictures).

• 3.5 mm knitting needles

• two stitch markers, one of them removable

• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techniques:

• w+t: wrap and turn - my preferred method for short rows (a short row tutorial can be found here).

Instructions:

Throughout the pattern, garter stitch ridges with increases or decreases are highlighted in boldface.

Set-up  Rows
CO4
R1 (C1): k2 pm k2
R2 (C1): k to end

Increases Part 1
R3 (C2): k to m w+t
R4 (C2): k to end
R5 (C1): k to end
R6 (C1): k to end
R7 (C2): k to m w+t
R8 (C2): k to end
R9 (C1): k to end
R10 (C1): k to stitch before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R11 (C2): k to m w+t
R12 (C2): k to end
R13 (C1): k to end
R14 (C1): k to end
R15 (C2): k to m w+t
R16 (C2): kfb k to end
R17 (C1): k to end
R18  (C1): k to end

Repeat rows 3 to 16 until there are 34 sts on your needles, 17 sts on each side of your stitch marker - from now on, only the C1-part will be widened.

Increases Part 2
R1 (C2): k to m w+t
R2 (C2): k to end
R3 (C1): k to end
R4 (C1): k to end
R5 (C2): k to m w+t
R6 (C2): k to end
R7 (C1): k to end
R8 (C1): k to stitch before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R9 (C2): k to m w+t
R10 (C2): k to end
R11 (C1): k to end
R12 (C1): k to end
R13 (C2): k to m w+t
R14 (C2):  k to end
R15 (C1): k to end
R16  (C1): k to end

Repeat these rows until there are 41 sts on your needles, 17 sts on one side of your stitch marker (where the short rows are) and 24 on the other side of your stitch marker (C1 only)

Middle part (no changes in stitch count)
R1 (C2): k to m, w+t
R2 (C2): k to end
R3 (C1): k to end
R4 (C1): k to end

Repeat these rows a total of 99 times

Decreases Part 1
R1 (C2): k to m w+t
R2 (C2): k to end
R3 (C1): k to end
R4 (C1): k to end
R5 (C2): k to m w+t
R6 (C2): k to end
R7 (C1): k to end
R8 (C1): k to end
R9 (C2): k to m w+t
R10 (C2): k to end
R11 (C1): k to m, ssk, k to end
R12 (C1): k to end
R13 (C2): k to m w+t
R14 (C2):  k to end
R15 (C1): k to end
R16  (C1): k to end

Repeat these rows until there are 34 stitches on your needles, 17 sts on either side of your stitch marker

Decreases Part 2
R1 (C2): k to m w+t
R2 (C2): ssk, k to end
R3 (C1): k to end
R4 (C1): k to end
R5 (C2): k to m w+t
R6 (C2): k to end
R7 (C1): k to end
R8 (C1): k to end
R9 (C2): k to m w+t
R10 (C2): k to end
R11 (C1): k to end
R12 (C1): k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k to end
R13 (C2): k to m w+t
R14 (C2):  k to end
R15 (C1): k to end
R16  (C1): k to end


Repeat these rows until there are only 4 stitches left on your needles.
BO and weave in ends.


Tips:

• I found it useful to place a stitch marker (safety pin) after finishing row 16, then counting from there, I’d increase in C1 (main colour) after the second C2 (contrast colour) stripe and increase in contrast colour in the fourth stripe.
• Stay consistent as to how to cross your yarns when changing colours; I always put the new (to be used) yarn UNDER and behind the old yarn (see photo).

Yarnbombing-Installation

At a local school - as announced in the local paper, it was part of the school's open day programme.

Ad-hoc Project Basket

I always have a lot of unfinished objects (or works-in-progress) lying about ... ususally I put them in a bowl or a basket to keep them apart. On pinterest I found a nice idea where to put a project when all available bowls or baskets are already in use - an origami box made from a broadsheet newspaper (even though the origami pattern is called "garbage bin" ...). A wider version can be found here.

 

As usual, I'm not sure about the scarf idea :) But I do like the way the colours of this yarn (Arauncania Ranco Multy) show up when contrasted with black.

EDIT: The scarf on the photo was frogged, but the general idea made it into a free knitting pattern - called Nautilina Scarf and available here.

Streifen, Streifen und Streifen Schal

This is the German translation of my  "Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf" pattern -  as published a few days ago.

Dieser leichte Frühlingsschal wird von einer Spitze zur anderen gestrickt. Er besteht aus drei Teilen, die jeweils in einem 45 Grad-Winkel zueinander stehen. Der ganze Schal ist kraus-rechts  gestrickt mit verkürzten Reihen im mittleren Teil. Die Farben werden jeweils alle zwei Reihen gewechselt.

Wenn der Schal mit den unten angegebenen Maschenzahlen gestrickt wird, sollte das fertige Werk etwa 190 cm lang und 27 cm weit werden.




Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.



Benötigtes Material

• Insgesamt ca. 100 Gramm Sockengarn (4-fädig) – ich habe einen Strang in hellgrau (F1) und einen Strang mit sehr buntem Farbverlauf (F2) verwendet
• 3.5 mm Stricknadeln
• Nähnadel, um die Fäden zu vernähen

Techniken

• Verkürzte Reihen: Ein deutsches Video, das verkürzte Reihen erklärt, findet man hier (bei Drops). Wenn man kraus-rechts strickt, kann man entscheiden, ob man die Wicklung um die Maschen jeweils “aufhebt” (Wicklung über die Masche heben und gemeinsam abstricken - wie im Video gezeigt) oder nicht. Mir gefällt das Strickstück deutlich besser, wenn die Maschen "aufgehoben" werden. Aber egal, wie man sich entscheidet, man sollte konsistent bleiben.
  In der Anleitung wird die Abkürzung "w+t" verwendet um anzuzeigen, dass die nächste Masche umwickelt werden und das Strickstück gedreht werden soll.

Weitere Abkürzungen

• F1: Farbe 1
• F2: Farbe 2
• HR: Hinreihe (Vorderseite)
• RR: Rückreihe (Rückseite)
• M: Masche(n)
• kfb: aus einer Masche zwei herausstricken, indem man zuerst eine Masche aus dem vorderen, dann eine aus dem hinteren Maschenglied strickt
• ssk: nach links geneigte Abnahme, indem man zwei Maschen nacheinander rechts abhebt und dann rechts zusammen strickt

Anleitung

Das Bild auf der rechten Seite zeigt die generelle Konstruktion an, genauer gesagt, wie die drei Teile zusammen einen dreieckigen Schal ergeben.

Teil 1 – Zunahmen
Mit F1 zwei Maschen anschlagen
Reihe 1 (F1, HR): 2 M rechts
Reihe 2 (F1, RR): kfb, 1 rechts
Reihe 3 (F2, HR): ssk, bis zum letzten Stich rechts, kfb
Reihe 4 (F2, RR): kfb, bis zum Ende rechts
Reihe 5 (F1, HR): ssk, bis zum letzten Stich rechts, kfb
Reihe 6 (F2, RR): kfb, bis zum Ende rechts

Die Reihen 3 bis 6 solange wiederholen, bis 90 Stiche auf der Nadel sind oder bis die Länge der „Abnehmkante“ in etwa einem Drittel der gewünschten Schallänge entspricht.

Teil 2a – Verkürzte Reihen, die weiter werden
Reihe 1 (F2, HR+RR): 1 M rechts, ssk, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 2 (F1, HR+RR): bis und inklusive der gewickelten Masche rechts stricken, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 3 (F2, HR+RR): bis zur gewickelten Masche stricken, ssk (d.h. die gewickelte Masche und die nächste zusammen stricken), w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 4 (F1, HR+RR): bis und inklusive der gewickelten Masche rechts stricken, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken

Die Reihen 3 und 4 solange wiederholen, bis man mit der gewickelten Masche an der linken Seite angekommen ist.
Diese letzte Reihe (in C2, nachdem die  letzte Masche umwickelt wurde) wird wie folgt gestrickt: bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, letzte Masche (aufheben und) rechts stricken, Arbeit drehen, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken.

Jetzt sollte die Maschenanzahl ein Drittel niedriger sein als am Start von Teil 2a, also z.B. wenn man mit 90 Maschen begonnen hat, sollten es jetzt 60 sein.

Teil 2b – Verkürzte Reihen, die schmaler werden
Reihe 1 (F1, HR+RR): rechts bis zur letzten Masche  stricken, w+t, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 2 (F2, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, kfb, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 3 (F1, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken (d.h. in der HR bis vor den kfb-Stich stricken und dann den ersten Stich aus dem kfb der letzten Reihe umwickeln, d.h. die zweite Masche aus dem kfb wird in dieser Reihe (HR+RR) nicht gestrickt)
Reihe 4 (F2, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, kfb, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken

Reihen 3 und 4 solange wiederholen, bis der gestrickte Teil einer Reihe nur noch 2 Maschen umfasst.

Das Foto zeigt den Schal nachdem die ersten Reihen von Teil 2 gestrickt wurden.

Teil 3 - Abnahmen
Reihe 1 (F1, HR): bis zum  Ende rechts stricken (dabei alle gewickelten Maschen aufheben)
Reihe 2 (F1, RR): ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb
Reihe 3 (F2, HR): bis zu den letzten beiden Maschen rechts stricken, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken
Reihe 4 (F2, RR):  ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb
Reihe 5 (F1, HR):  bis zu den letzten beiden Maschen rechts stricken, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken
Reihe 6 (F1, RR):  ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb

Reihen 3 bis 6 solange wiederholen bis nur noch 2 Maschen auf der Nadel sind.
Diese Maschen abketten und die Enden vernähen.

Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf

This light stripy spring scarf is
knitted from side to side. It's constructed in three parts - all at different angles.

The scarf is garter stitch only, with some short rows to shape the middle part. Colours are alternated every second row.

If knitted with the stitch count given below, the scarf measures about 190 cm in length and 27 cm in width.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



I have written a german version of this pattern - it can be found here. Eine deutsche Version gibt es hier.

Material

• A total of 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours (I used one skein of light grey yarn and one skein of variegated yarn)
• 3.5 mm knitting needles
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Short Rows: A tutorial on short rows can be found here (http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html). The abbreviation used here will be "w+t" (wrap and turn), i.e. wrap the yarn around the next stitch and turn your work.
  With garter stitch you can decide whether to pick up the wrapped stitches or not. I chose to pick them up - I even used a slightly more complicated way because I wanted to hide the wrap that was in last row's colour. First I turned the wrapped stitch, then I picked up the front part of the wrap and placed it on the needle, and finally I knitted it through the back loop. Whatever you choose, it's best to stay consistent throughout the project.

Instructions

The picture on the right shows the general construction, i.e. how the 3 parts fit together to produce a triangular scarf knitted from side to side - but with a slant.


Part 1 - Increasing
CO2 with colour 1 (white in the photos)
Row 1 (C1, RS):  k
Row 2 (C1, WS): kfb, k1
Row 3 (C2, RS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 4 (C2, WS): kfb, k to end
Row 5 (C1, RS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 6 (C1, WS): kfb, k to end
Repeat rows 3-6 until the ssk-edge measures about one third of the desired length (I repeated until I had 90 stitches on my needles)

Part 2a - Short rows getting wider
Row 1 (C2, RS+WS): k1, ssk, w+t, k to end
Row 2 (C1, RS+WS): k to and including wrapped stitch, w+t, k to end
Row 3 (C2, RS+WS): k to last wrapped stitch, ssk (i.e. knit wrapped stitch and next stitch together), w+t, k to end
Row 4 (C1, RS+WS): k to and including wrapped stitch, w+t, k to end

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have reached the left side.

The last row (C2, after the last stitch has been wrapped) is knitted as follows: k to last stitch, (pick it up and) knit it, turn work and knit back

The stitch count should be one third lower than at the beginning of part 2a, e.g. if your stitch count was 90 when you started thes part, it should be 60 now.

Part 2b - Short rows getting narrower
Row 1 (C1, RS+WS): k to last stitch, w+t, k to end
Row 2 (C2, RS+WS): k to st before last wrapped stitch, w+t, kfb, k to end
Row 3 (C1, RS+WS): k to 2 sts before last wrapped stitch (i.e. before the stitches that came from last row's kfb), w+t, k to end
(i.e. you wrap around one stitch from the kfb and leave the second one unknitted)
Row 4 (C2, RS+WS): k to st before last wrapped stitch, w+t, kfb, k to end

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are only two knitted stitches in the row.

The picture shows the scarf after a few rows of part 2b have been completed.
 
Part 3 - Decreasing
Row 1 (C1, RS): k to end (picking up all wrapped stitches)
Row 2 (C1, WS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 3 (C2, RS): k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 4 (C2, WS):  ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 5 (C1, RS):  k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 6 (C1, WS):  ssk, k to last stitch, kfb

Repeat rows 3 to 6 until there are only 2 stitches left on your needles.
Bind off and weave in ends.

Stripes in Curious Angles

Still not sure how this scarf will look when it's finished ...

Serpentina Mitts

These mitts were knitted during the time of carnival. I wanted to knit something with a slightly tipsy feeling - that's why I added
random surface crochet. Serpentina is the spanish word for a paper streamer :).

They are knitted sideways in simple stockinette stitch, with some shaping added using short rows.

Adding surface crochet is a good way to mix colours, especially with variegated yarn that has a dramatic colour change – as with the mitts in the picture where the colour changes from a very light pink to a dark turquoise.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Important: the surface crochet is applied completely at random, i.e. the pattern below will NOT give a detailed descriptions where to put the surface crochet stitches. There are, however, tips of how to achieve a similar look.

Materials

• ca. 30 grams of variegated fingering weight yarn
• a long 3.5mm circular needles
• a 2.5mm or 3mm crochet hook
• scrap yarn (for provisional cast on)
• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techiques

• Provisional Cast-On: I prefer to do a crocheted provisional cast on with scap yarn - here's a video that shows how to do it.
• Surface Crochet: Using a crochet hook, you make slip stitches through your knitted fabric. The photo on the right shows how it looks when adding surface slip stitches to a knitted fabric. Here's a video and here's a tutorial that both show surface crochet.
• Short Rows: A tutorial on short rows can be found here (http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html), however in this pattern, there will be short rows with wraps (the usual wrap and turn (w+t)), but also short rows without wraps, to create the thumb opening.
• Kitchener Stitch: A video that shows the kitchener Stitch (or grafting) on stockinette can be found here on knittinghelp.com. Or - if you prefer text to video - here's a vogueknitting tutorial on the subject.

Instructions

Provisionally cast on 45 stitches (if you use the crochet on method, this means crochet on your stitches with scrap yarn and knit the first row with the yarn you'll use for the mitts)
R1 (RS): sl1 k to end
R2 (WS): sl1 p to end

Repeat until there are 11 rows of stockinette stitch
R12: apply random loops and curves of surface crochet on RS - while doing so, cross the complete width of the mitt, end near the last stitch of this row (i.e. where you would have ended, had you knitted the row). Now the tip of your knitting needle is on the opposite side as your yarn, therefore, slip all stitches to correct this. Put the last crochet loop on your knitting needle.

R13 (RS): sl2, pass first slipped stitch over second slipped stitch, k9, place marker, k to end
R14 (WS, thumb row):
- sl1 p to last st before marker, k1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP the yarn around the next stitch (you want to create the opening for your thumb!)
- k12, w+t, p11, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k11 w+t, p10, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k7 w+t, p6, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k6 w+t, p5, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k4 w+t, p3, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k5 w+t, p4, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- p to end
R15 (RS): sl1, k to end
R16 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue 4 more rows of stockinette stitch
R20 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
knit 2 more rows of stockinette stitch
R24: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

The photo on the right shows the mitt after row 25, i.e. the thumb has been knitted and surface crochet has been applied twice.

R25 (RS): sl1, k to end
R26 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue in stockinette 7 more rows
R30 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
R31 (RS): sl1, k to end
R32: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

Repeat rows R25 to R32 two more times (or until the mitts are wide enough for your hands continue 5 more rows in in stockinette stitch.

Undo your provisional cast on and put the stitches on a second needle. Break yarn and thread yarn into a tapestry needle. Hold both needles together and start grafting in stockinette stitch.

You can knit the second mitt exactly as the first one, however, if you want them to be more symmetrical (i.e. with the graft line mirror-inverted at the same place), you have to use a slightly different set of instructions for the second mitt:

• start "thumb row" one row later (row 14 is just a normal purl-row) and knit it as follows:
  - sl1 k to last st before marker, p1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP - p12, w+t, k11, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p11 w+t, k10, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p7 w+t, k6, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p6 w+t, k5, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p4 w+t, k3, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p5 w+t, k4, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - k to end 

• start "shaping rows" one row later (i.e. the row before is just a normal purl row) and knit them as follows:R21 (RS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, k39, w+t, p20, w+t, k to end

How to apply the surface crochet to get a similar look to the mitts in the photo

1) When applying surface crochet try to use all of the available space – not just the rows you last knitted. This also helps to distribute the colours.

2) Furthermore try to avoid crocheting straight lines, go for loops and curves instead.

3) The first time you apply surface crochet don’t make the loops too close to one another, when you do it the next time, you can (should) go over them again and you’ll need space for it.

4) After grafting the application of surface crochet gets more difficult (it gets cumbersome to hold the yarn within the newly formed tube and reach it with your crochet hook from the outside), therefore it’s easier to apply it before grafting. However, to get a consistent look, some surface crochet should be applied crossing the grafted row. The photo on the right shows how some surface crochet crosses the "graft line" (where turquois meets pink).

5) Since the mitts are knitted in stockinette stitch, they tend to roll in at the side; it rolls in less if the surface crochet loops come close to the edges

Entangled

Fingerless gloves knitted sideways with lots of random surface crochet ...