Yet Another New Scarf Idea

One of my current knitting projects, the Random Seifenblasen Scarf, is a bit tedious and it needs LOTS of concentration. Furthermore, it's knitted in laceweight yarn and needs lots of (re-)counting, i.e. progess is slow. 

To set a counterpoint I started another new project that's far easier to knit: a garter-stitch-only scarf knitted with heavier yarn. I love the colors, the shape and the fact that I actually can see it grow.

Shaped Random Lace Scarf

Since the Random Lace Scarf came out so well, I thought it might be a interesting to explore the random approach a bit further still.

This time, I tried it with the shaping of my Seifenblasen Lace Scarf - but with random lace panels. So far it looks OK, but a bit crumpled. Looking forward to seeing it blocked ... (but this will take a while ...)

 

Suburban Yarnbomb

As seen in Cologne ... :)

Random Lace Scarf

After knitting a few e-book sleeves in a random lace technique (see blogpost here), I decided that this could be explored a bit further and with a bigger project - a lacy scarf for summer.

This tutorial explains how to knit a scarf in the random lace technique. The result is a beautiful and unique piece of lace to wear on summer evenings.

Please note that this is not a pattern in the classic sense with detailed stitch by stitch and row by row sequences, but a set of instructions and tips that allow you to knit a scarf and achieve a similar result.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Tweet

What do you need?

• Some yarn that blocks well, i.e. yarn with a high percentage of wool. I recommend using fingering weight or lighter yarn and knitting needles that are slightly bigger than what your yarn calls for.
  I used about 100 grams fingering weight yarn and 3.75mm needles.
  Since this is meant to be worn in summer I recommend to use anything between lace and sport weight.
• The ability to count - and the patience to count your stitches again and again. Since everything looks quite similar while you're knitting it, it can be a bit of a boring project ... if you need something to give you instant gratification, this project might not be the right one for you. Furthermore, you really need to concentrate or to recount really often - so it's not a project to take to your local Stich'n'Bitch.
• The stamina to go on knitting a piece even though it will look really strange and crumpled while you're knitting it ... but it will miraculously turn beautiful when it's on the blocking board.

Stitches that you should know

I've linked to a few YouTube videos (not mine!) that show how to knit the following stitches.

For RS I used these stitches (stitches with a knit-look)

• k2tog (right-leaning decrease): https://youtu.be/ptZsAT770i8
• ssk (left-leaning decrease): https://youtu.be/RGwcYW3GG3M
• centered double decrease (or sl2tog, k1, p2sso): https://youtu.be/en3Yq2er4RI
• yo (increase): https://youtu.be/3QbFhh8u4L8
• yo twice (double increase): https://youtu.be/8NEAw0qtR70
• k yo k into one stitch: https://youtu.be/yAQxguVIRYY

For WS I used these stitches (stitches with a purl-look, i.e. in order to have a knit-look on RS)

• p2tog (looks like a right-leaning decrease on RS): https://youtu.be/M7RtzEDw6Xc
• p2togtbl (looks like a left-leaning decrease on RS): https://youtu.be/aLI4_u3T9Fo
• p3tog (double decrease): https://youtu.be/6ob7wn18MJI
• yo (increase on the purl side): https://youtu.be/_6zqcAJtORY
• yo twice (double increase on the purl side)

Basically, you can use any stitch that produces a holey increase and any decrease.

How to Knit the Scarf

CO50 sts and start with a WS row.

Start any WS row by slipping the first stitch purlwise and any RS row by slipping the first stitch knitwise. This will give a nice regular edge

On WS knit the stitches at random that I have listed under WS of the "Stitches that you should know" section - similarly, on RS knit the stitches at random that I have listed under RS of that section.
It is important to make sure that at the end of the row, you have the same number of stitches than you had at the beginnig (50 sts).

• I counted only the increases and decreases, i.e. starting from zero, adding one for each increase and substracting one for each decrease ... and finishing the row with a total of zero. But even this is a concentration exercise ...
• If you want a neater pattern, do one increase and corresponding decrease next to each other. For a more organic or slanted look, do a few increases and only then the necessary decreases. I would advise, however, not to do this too much, since then your piece will be askew.
• To make the pattern as holey as in the pictures, I usually made 10 to 15 yo's per row (and the corresponding number of decreases).
• I guess it is important to not overthink this technique, i.e. just to try making increases and decreases without any plan - and let yourself be surprised by the outcome.
• It might be a good idea to try this technique on a smaller object, such as a doily (or a sleeve for your e-book)

Go on knitting until the scarf has the desired length, then bind off loosely.
Please note, that the scarf will grow on the blocking board.

Weave in ends and block! (Blocking is really important here.)

Motivation Tip: 
While knitting the piece you don't actually see your progress. You can measure it with a tape measure but you don't see it in the number of repeats or anything visible or easily countable. This can be a bit frustrating (... it certainly was for me). To keep myself motivated, when I started for the day I would put in a stitch marker (safety pin) to mark my starting point so that I could easily see my progress for the day.

This blogpost was featured at Oombawka Design Link & Share Wednesday - Link Party 93:

The Miracle of blocking

Up until recently, I hadn't done much lace knitting. I tried a few free patterns on Ravelry (e.g. enja's scarf stole by Åsa Tricosa, Ella by Wendy Wonnacut and Nori by Carissa Browning - all beautiful and well written patterns that I highly recommend), but I ended up frogging most of them because I was too lazy to count, didn't want to concentrate too much on my knitting or rather wanted a pattern that I could easily remember - thus avoiding to carry the printed out pattern with me. 

About a year ago, I designed a lacy scarf myself (Seifenblasen Lace Scarf), but the lace pattern wasn't too sophisticated (only two different rows, i.e. really easy to remember :).

Just a while ago, I started experimenting with randomly knitted lace and used it to make e-book, tablet and phone sleeves that I really liked (see tutorial here). However, these are small enough projects (i.e. with a knitting time of a few hours), so it wasn't such an exercise in patience to see the crumply piece on the needles and wait for the blocked and lovely looking end-product.  The picture below shows how a small piece of random (or freeform) lace looks before (left hand side) and after (right hand side) blocking.

Moreover, the counting the total number of stitches wasn't much of a problem because there were only about 25 stitches on my needles and I could easily concentrate on the numbers of increases and decreases I had made (the number of increases and decreases needs to be equal in one row to keep the stitch count) or recount the whole row in a jiffy. Plus, there was no pattern to remember, since I made it all up as I went along :)

I really liked the technique and the outcome, so I decided to knit a freeform lace summer scarf or wrap. 

Having found some fingering weight yarn in different shades of red, I cast on 50 stitches and started ... however, I didn't exactly go as I planned. I hadn't anticipated that it would be an exercise in concentration to keep track of the increases and decreases during one row - even though I only counted the difference to the original count (i.e. "minus one" after a decrease and "plus one" after an increase). So I ended up counting each row at least once ...

Moreover, it took quite a while to finish the piece - the random lace pieces I had knitted up until then had measured 40 cm max. A scarf or wrap for an adult of my size must be at least 160 cm long and even though the technique is fun, after a while it got a bit boring and repetitive (this is not an instant gratification project, definitely not), I didn't see much progress ... and while knitting it, it wasn't exactly nice to look at. Here's how it looked about half finished. Crumpled and rather unattractive ... 

But I gritted my teeth, went on knitting and was really (really, REALLY) happy when yesterday I could finally put it on the blocking board. And I do like the look of it now.

The most ironic thing is, that with that kind of freeform lace, I ended up counting MORE than with regular patterns ... and I had to concentrate much more. However, I think the result made it worth its while. I'm looking forward to wear it as a summer wrap and I guess I will publish a tutorial soon.

Lovely Gift - Or Swingy Wingspan

If you search for shawl/wrap patterns on Ravelry Wingspan by maylin Tri'Coterie Designs will be among the Top 10 with over 10'000 projects. There are also quite a few variations and adaptaions
of it (as you can see on this Pinterest board).

Some time ago, I received and email from the Designer (maylin from Tricot Treat) with a gift of all her patterns. At the time I was really touched by this gift, because it was so unexpected.
And this morning, I found another receipt email from Ravelry in my inbox - with another pattern gift, her new pattern: a swing knitting version of Wingspan called Rigoles. Again, I am surprised and I honestly think, that it's a lovely, lovely present by a very gifted designer. Thank you so much!

I downloaded it. The pattern is written with much attention to detail, many illustrations and photos, plus there are some diffent versions included.

Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of a finished shawl, but there are some really nice ones on the Ravelry pattern page of Rigoles. I can only show a screenshot of the pattern's thumbnail.

P.S.: Three years ago, when I published the Mixed Wave patterns (cowl and fingerless gloves), I tried to do a wavy (or swingy) version of Wingspan as well. But at that time doing short rows within short rows was a bit to much for me - so I frogged it ... and I haven't tried it since :)

More Modular Knitting

After finishing the Little Rectangles Scarf I thought more about modular knitting patterns and the way they can be used to emphasize variegated yarn. So I tried out some patterns on paper and found that these Xs or crosses could be used as well.

I'm still not sure whether this pattern will work out - especially how to knit some of the crosses, the ones that need to be knitted upside down and then attached to the lower ones. Or maybe I have to think about it again ... But if it works, it will be an interesting scarf or blanket pattern.

Monster Tooth Scarf

Tired of wearing wintry gray? In need of something that looks strong and colorful? Then knit yourself an antidote with this nice wide scarf for spring in beautiful colors with a strong graphic pattern.

This scarf is knitted (nearly) only in garter stitch; the graphic effect is achieved with short rows.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



There are two versions of instructions – one (short and descriptive) that just gives the gist of what is done when. And one with rows and stitches spelled out.

Personally, I prefer instructions given in the short style (or rather that’s the way I started thinking about the pattern), but I know that instructions like this can confusing for others and are uncommon. That’s why there is a normal version as well.

Please note, that the scarf is not quite symmetrical.

Material

• about 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in Color 1 (light green on the photos) 
• about 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in a contrasting color (Color 2, purple on the photos)
  (the yarn used for this project is Malabrigo Sock - Colors 037 Lettuce and 141 Dewberry.)
• a circular knitting needle (3mm) or a long double pointed needle 
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Short rows with double stitches (German short rows, t+p): when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, make sure to knit it as one stitch (see also this YouTube video); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).

Instructions (Telegram Style)

• Start with 14 sts (in Color 1) and knit one wedge, slip sts to other end of needle and add 4 sts in Color 2.
• For wedges in Color 1 always start from one end of the needle; for wedges in Color 2 always start from the opposite end of the needle, i.e. slip stitches to the other end of your needles between knitting wedges.
• All stitches are knit stitches – except the first rows of Color 2 wedges (purl stitches).
• For all wedges: Start with a long row (until 5 sts before end), then knit each row 2 sts shorter, until there are only 6 or 7 sts left.
• During the first half, knit increases at the side of every 6th row (i.e. every 3rd ridge) of wedges in Color 2.
• When your piece is about half knit a wedge in Color 2 without increases or decreases
• Afterwards, knit decreases at the side of every 6th row (i.e. every 3rd ridge) of wedges in Color 2.
• End with a wedge in Color 1.

Instructions (Detailed)

Wedge 1 (Color 1)
CO14
Row 0: sl1, k to end
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 2 before end, t+p, k to end
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 sts long (i.e. 6 on RS, 5 on WS)

Wedge 2 (Color 2)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) and CO4 with Color2 (see picture No. 1), then turn needle
Ridge 1: sl1, p to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
(Your piece should now look similar to the one in picture No. 2.)
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to 2 before end, kfb, k
Continue knitting ridges 1 to 3 until the last row is only 6 or 7 stitches wide, the last ridge does not have to be a ridge 3.

Wedge 3 (Color 1)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 1
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 or 7 sts long - after a few ridges, your piece should look similar to picture No. 3

Wedge 4 (Color 2, with increases every 3rd ridge)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 2
Ridge 1: sl1, p to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to 2 before end, kfb, k
Continue knitting ridges 1 to 3 until the last row is only 6 or 7 stitches wide, the last ridge does not have to be a ridge 3.

Repeat wedges 3 and 4 until the piece measures about half the desired length of your scarf. Then knit on odd-numbered wedge (i.e. in Color 1).

Picture No. 4 shows how your piece should look after knitting wegde 3 and 4 twice.

Middle Wedge (Color 2, no increases or decreases)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 2
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 or 7 sts long

Wedge 6 (Color 1)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 1
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Repeat Ridge 2 until the last row is only 6 or 7 sts long

Wedge 7 (Color 2, with decreases every 3rd ridge)
Slip all stitches to the other end of your needle (do not turn your work) – continue knitting with Color 2
Ridge 1: sl1, p to 5 sts before end, t+p, k to end (during the first row, make sure not to knit the double-stitches as two stitches, but as one)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 2 sts before last double stitch, t+p, k to 3 before end, ssk, k
Continue knitting ridges 1 to 3 until the last row is only 6 or 7 stitches wide, the last ridge does not have to be a ridge 3.

Repeat wedges 6 and 7 until you have knitted the same number of wegdes 6 and 7 than you did of wedges 2 and 3. End with an odd-numbered wedge (i.e. in Color 1). Bind-off all Color 1 stitches in the last row, then bind off the other stitches in Color 2.
It is possible that you don't end with the number of stitches you started with - that's because the decreasing wedges have less ridges than the corresponding increasing wedges.

Lacy E-Book or Tablet Sleeve

This e-book sleeve is easy to make and looks quite special. You can use some leftover yarn and contrast or complement it with a colored foam sheet.

The lace part is knitted at random. This means that there are no detailed knitting instructions as in a real lace patterns, but only a description how to arrive at something similar. The effect is created by randomly knitting lace stitches (yarn-over, "knit2together etc.) that make up a nice organic looking structure.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials:

• yarn (I used fingering weight yarn)
• knitting needles the yarn calls for (I used 3mm needles)
• a foam sheet
• a pair of scissors
• a tapestry needle
• glue (I used basic universal glue)
• a ruler and a pencil 
• the measurements of your e-book/tablet

Instructions:

• Measure your ebook - and knit a piece of random lace that is 5mm wider than your ebook and 5mm longer then twice its height. Block it to size. See instructions on how to knit random lace below.
  
  
• Using pencil and ruler, mark and cut out two pieces of foam sheet that are as big as your ebook reader or tablet - something like 1mm per side.

• Glue the foam sheet pieces to the WS of your knitting, in a way that the edge stitches ofr your knitting still stand out a bit on each side. Apply the glue sparingly on your knitting only in places where there are no holes (see picture below). That way you will minimize the visible glue residue on the ebook sleeve.
  Press the foam sheet to the knitting for a few seconds and then let it dry completely.

• After the glue has dried completely, fold the halves together right sides out and sew the sides together (I used the tails of my knitting) - using the "invisible stitch" (as shown from minute 3:30 to 5:15 in this YouTube video). 

How to Knit Random Lace

It's best to use a yarn that blocks well, e.g. something that has a large percentage of wool. I used standard sock yarn and 3mm needles.

Loosely cast on the amount of stitches you think you need. For my 12.2cm wide piece I cast on 25 stitches. If in doubt, it's better to knit one stitch less - this allows you to stretch the piece while blocking it and thus bringing out the lace in a better way.

I decided to do only "knit stitches" on one side (RS) and only "purl stitches" on the other (WS). Starting with WS I knitted lace stitches in a completely random manner.

• On WS I randomly did p2tog's, yo's, p2togtbl's, double-yo's and p3tog's.
• On RS I randomly did k2tog's, ssk's yo's and double-yo's.

The important thing is to make sure that the number of stitches stays the same after finishing one row, e.g. if you started off with 25 stitches, you need to finish each row with 25 stitches (loops) on your needles.

If you want a neater pattern, do one increase and corresponding decrease next to each other. For a more organic look, do a few increases and only then the necessary decreases. I would advise, however, not to do this too much, since then your piece will be askew.

After a while, I only counted the increases and decreases (or stitches below and above par).

Knit until your piece is a bit less than about twice as long as your ebook is high - keep in mind that it will grow on the blocking board, both with width and length. Therefore, it's better to knit it slightly smaller and stretch it on the blocking board.

Don't worry if your piece looks crumpled before blocking. Chances are that it will look nice and lacy afterwards (see picture above).

I didn't weave in the ends but left tails on both sides that were long enough to sew the sides together.

This project was featured on the Pinbellish Link Party #35 at purfylle.com. Thank you!

Random Lace - E-Book Sleeve

When my Dad bought a new ebook reader, I promised to make a new sleeve for it and bought some foam sheets to knit around them. However, While I was deciding what to knit, I remembered the beautiful lace patterns at String Geekery Blog, Some of them look so nice and organic, and I wanted to do something similar.

But I'm very lazy ... too lazy in fact to decide upon a pattern, to print it out and to count stitches and rows. So I decided to knit a completely random pattern, with yarn-overs, k2togs, double yarn-overs, p2togs, ssks etc.. I just had to make sure, that the number of stitches stayed the same.
Here's how it looked after a few centimeters. But even "real" lace patterns look a bit crumpled before blocking, so I persevered :)

After I blocked it and glued it around the foam sheet, it looked much better.

I started a second one that I even like better.

Moreover, I really think the random approach has potential and I like the organic look. Plus, it's really fun to knit. I'm trying to do a scarf or stole next.

I later googled at bit and found some resources on random lace knitting - a tutorial (also linked on Ravelry) and a book (that I haven't read, but according to the description at amazon it seems to pursue a similar approach).

Kleine Rechtecke Schal

Endlich wird es Frühling - daher möchte man auch buntere Kleidung anziehen und vielleicht diesen hübschen, leichten Schal aus Sockengarn stricken.

Dieser Schal ist modular gestrickt, d.h. es werden einzelne kleine Teile (hier kleine Rechtecke) gestrickt, die während des Strickens verbunden werden. Er besteht aus kleinen krausrechts gestrickten Rechtecken, die nur 12 Maschen breit sind.

Diese Anleitung ist die deutsche Version meiner Anleitung "Little Rectangle Summer Scarf".

The original english version of this pattern is available here: Little Rectangles Summer Scarf.




Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.



Benötigtes Material

• ca, 150 Gramm 4-fädiges Garn (ich habe Sockenwolle genommen)
• 3.25mm Stricknadeln (ganz kurze Nadeln reichen, denn man hat jeweils nur 12 Maschen auf den Nadeln)
• Nähnadel, um am Ende die Fäden zu vernähen

Techniken

• Der gestrickte Maschenanschlag (oder knitted cast on) wird gezeigt in diesem YouTube-Video von Andrea *Maschenanschlag*
• Der Schlingenanschlag (oder backwards loop cast on) wird gezeigt in diesem YouTube-Video von nadelspiel - Stricken und Häkeln mit elizzza
• Maschen aus dem Rand aufnehmen: hierzu habe ich leider kein deutsches Video gefunden, aber diesen Blog-Post von Tichiro - da für den unten beschriebenen Schal nicht glatt rechts sondern kraus rechts gestrickt wurde, kann man die Maschen im Verhältnis 1:1 aufnehmen, d.h. eine neue Masche auf eine krause Rippe. Ein englische YouTube-Video gibt es dazu von Very Pink Knits.

Konstruktion des Schals

Der Schal wird in Schichten gestrickt. Jede Schicht besteht aus fünf Rechtecken - jedes ist 12 Maschen breit und 8 Rippen hoch (d.h. 16 kraus rechts gestrickte Reihen).

Mit Ausnahme der allerersten Schicht, werden die Rechtecke 1 bis 4 durch 8 abgekettete Maschen beendet. Die erste Reihe des nächsten Rechtecks bildet sich aus den überbleibenden 4 Maschen zusammen mit 4 neu angeschlagenen Maschen (Schlingenanschlag) und 4 Maschen, die am Rand des darunterliegenden Rechtecks aufgenommen werden. Am Ende des letzten Rechtecks jeder Schicht werden bis auf die letzte Schlinge alle Maschen abgekettet. Aus diesem letzten Stich wird dann der Anschlag für das erste Rechteck der nächsten Schicht herausgestrickt (getrickter Maschenanschlag).

Strickanleitung

Erste Schicht

Rechteck 1:
Mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag 12 Maschen aufnehmen
Reihe 1: rechte Maschen
Reihen 2-14: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, rechte Maschen bis ans Ende der Reihe
Reihe 15: 8 Maschen abketten, es sollten noch 4 Maschen auf der Nadel sein

Rechtecke 2 bis 4:
Reihe 1: die vom letzten Rechteck übriggebliebenen 4 Maschen rechts stricken, mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag 8 Maschen aufnehmen
Reihe 2: rechte Maschen
Reihen 3-15: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, rechte Maschen bis ans Ende der Reihe
Reihe 16: 8 Maschen abketten, es sind noch 4 Maschen auf der Nadel

Rechteck 5:
Reihe 1: die vom letzten Rechteck übriggebliebenen 4 Maschen rechts stricken, mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag 8 Maschen aufnehmen
Reihe 2: rechte Maschen
Reihen 3-14: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, rechte Maschen bis ans Ende der Reihe
Reihe 15: 11 Maschen abketten, es bleibt nur eine Masche auf der Nadel übrig

Zweite Schicht und weitere Schichten

Rechteck 1:
Die Masche zur anderen Seite der Nadel schieben, d.h. das Strickstück nicht wenden, sondern den Maschenanschlag auf dieser Seite starten.
Mit dem gestrickten Maschenanschlag 7 Maschen anschlagen, d,h. jetzt sind 8 Maschen auf der Nadel (siehe Bild A)
Reihe 1: 7 rechte Maschen, 1 Masche rechts verschränkt stricken, 4 Maschen aus der Seite des letzten Rechtecks aufnehmen (siehe Bild B)
Reihen 2-15: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, rechte Maschen bis ans Ende der Reihe
Reihe 16: 8 Maschen abketten, es sind noch 4 Maschen auf der Nadel

Rechtecke 2 bis 4:
Reihe 1: die vom letzten Rechteck übriggebliebenen 4 Maschen rechts stricken, mit Schlingenanschlag 4 Maschen aufnehmen und 4 Maschen von der Seite des darunterliegenden Rechtecks aufnehmen (dies ist für Rechteck 2 das Rechteck 4 der darunterliegenden Reihe, für Rechteck 3 ist es Rechteck 3 der darunterliegenden Reihe usw. - siehe auch das Bild im Abschitt "Konstruktion des Schals"). Die Reihe sollte nun so aussehen wie in Bild C.
Reihe 2: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, 2 rechte Maschen, 1 rechte Masche verschränkt, 4 rechte Maschen, 1 rechte Masche verschränkt, rechte Maschen bis zum Ende der Reihe.
Reihen 3-15: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, rechte Maschen bis ans Ende der Reihe
Reihe 16:  8 Maschen abketten, es sind noch 4 Maschen auf der Nadel

Rechteck 5:
Reihe 1: die vom letzten Rechteck übriggebliebenen 4 Maschen rechts stricken, mit Schlingenanschlag 4 Maschen aufnehmen und 4 Maschen von der Seite des darunterliegenden Rechtecks aufnehmen
Reihe 2: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, 2 rechte Maschen, 1 rechte Masche verschränkt, 4 rechte Maschen, 1 rechte Masche verschränkt, rechte Maschen bis zum Ende der Reihe.
Reihen 3-14: erste Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben, rechte Maschen bis ans Ende der Reihe
Reihe 15:  11 Maschen abketten, es bleibt nur eine Masche auf der Nadel übrig

Diese Schicht solange wiederholen bis der Schal die gewünschte Länge hat. Beim allerletzten Rechteck der allerletzten Schicht alle Maschen abketten.

Anschliessend Fäden vernähen und vorsichtig aufspannen.

Garn

Das hier verwendete Garn ist Lang Yarns Jawoll Color (Farbe 132.0458). Ich habe relativ lange herumprobiert, bis ich für diese Garn ein gutes Projekt gefunden habe - dies habe ich in zwei Blogposts (hier und hier) beschrieben.
Aber jetzt bin ich mit dem Ergebnis sehr zufrieden.