Color Way Grievances

I love Schoppel Zauberball yarn - especially the colors and the way they combine. 

But this time I didn't have much luck in the way the colors developed. I wanted to show off the colors by using two skeins of the same colorway (Fuchsia) and alternating every few rows. 

On the right hand side is my first try: the stripe pattern became practically invisible, when both skeins turn red. So I frogged and tried again - starting from the other end of one skein - the result is in the left hand picture. This time both skeins turn orange at the same time - with the same effect.

I'm slightly annoyed ... but I'm sure that I will find something nice to do with the skeins sometime soon. In the meantime, this goes to the frog pond (i.e. will be ripped back).

I will also use this pattern idea another time and with different yarn(s).

Fauxdori - Knitters' Version

I don't know where I first heard of a Midori-style traveller's notebook  (or fauxdori :)... somewhere on YouTube, I suppose. If you haven't heard of it, such a fauxdori "notebook" is basically a "wrapper" made of leather or another sturdy material, in which you can place your notebooks.
From the start I really liked the idea and I wanted one for myself.

But I also wanted to make one
myself - and I wanted it to have a "knit-look". I searched the Internet a bit, but I didn't find ideas for that.
So, I thought I might try a it with thick felt and random lace.

This blogpost is a brief (!) how-to -  describing how I made my "Fauxdori for Knitters" - it's not a detailed step-by-step tutorial. There are already so many excellent description and videos out there on the internet, that I'd rather link to them.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials

• a thick sheet of felt
• elastic (I used 2mm elastic)
• eyelets and a hammer (I used 5mm eyelets by Prym)
• a charm with one or two holes in it (I made mine with leftover polymer clay (Fimo)
• quite thin yarn that blocks well (I used a "skein" of reinforcement yarn - the yarn that is sometimes hidden inside sock yarn skeins)
• knitting needles - a bit thicker than what the yarn calls for (I used 2.5mm needles)
• notebooks to put into the traveller's notebook - you'll need them as a template - I used A4 booklets since that's a standard size you get everywhere in Germany

Techniques you Need

For me this was rather a thrifty project - so it was great to try out some new techniques

• Knitting random lace: In my blogpost about the lacy ebook sleeve you can find a tutorial on how to knit random lace.
• Grafting lace: Joni Coniglio has written several brilliant post on grafting in general and also on grafting lace - this one and this one.
  I guess this project is perfect to try the stitches (or formulas) because it doesn't really matter if you get one of them wrong - as long as you keep your number of stitches (it is RANDOM lace, after all).

How to Make the Basic Traveler's Notebook

• Cut your felt to size, i.e. as big as the notebooks that are to fit into it, but with about 1.5cm more at each side.
• Mark the middle with a line and on that line mark five dots 0.8mm away from the top, 15mm away from the top,  0.7mm away from the bottom, 15mm away from the bottom, and one right in the middle. 
• Put in 5 eyelets centered around the dots. A video showing how to put in eyelets can be found here on YouTube. 
• Thread your elastic through the holes as shown in this YouTube-video by sealemon at about minute 3'30''. To add some more decore I threaded a charm in first. Knot your elastic. Then cut off excess elastic. Your notebook should now look like this:

How to Create the Lace Decor

Provisionally CO 16 stitches. The provisional cast-on is important if you want a seamless look, i.e. a neverending band.

Knit in a random lace pattern until the strip you've knitted is about twice as long as your notebook (piece of felt) is high when being stretched.

Open the provisional CO and catch the stitches on your second needle. Graft the ends together using grafting formulas for lace grafting. I used this as an opportunity to graft lace for the first time ... and since it was random lace, there was only a small chance to mess this up :)
I used the descriptions in this blogpost by Joni Coniglio to learn the basics of grafting lace - here's another post explaining this topic.

After you have grafted the beginning and end of the band together you have a continuous band of random lace. Block it to size (use your traveler's notebook as a guide) with two knitting needles on top and bottom (see picture above). It will take a little longer to dry, because it now consists of two layers of knitted fabric.

Draw the band over the front part of your notebook - placing it where you like it best. I chose to place it right in the center. With a sharp needle, stitch the lace to your fabric to keep it from moving.

Put in some notebooks and you're done!

This post was featured on OuiCrochet's Fiber Tuesday Link Party No. 64. Thank you!

Yarnbomb in Zurich

A couple of weeks ago I saw the air vents of a parking garage in Zurich were decorated with fabric of a really bright color ... at the time I even posted a picture of it on my Instagram account, but I thought it was just fabric (well, not knitting :)

Well, this weekend I walked by a bit closer so I could examine it better and read the sign with the explanations. It turns out that
a) it's actually knitted, i.e. a yarnbomb
b) it's part of a bigger festival, with large-scale projects in the public space - called AUFSEHEN (sensation or splash in English); this installation is called "Knitted Parking"

I also found out that I had seen some of the other projects, wondered about them and didn't know what to make of them. But I really like the ideas ... so I guess, I will try to see the installations I haven't seen yet, but I will have to hurry, because it only runs till September 6th.

Trikonasana Yoga Socks

It seems that I'm going trough a "yoga sock phase" again. But this time, I try different designs to make the knitting a bit more interesting. After a sideways version and on with horizonal cables, I tried this one that is knitted diagonally - or with slanted horizontal ribbing.

As I am always trying to reduce the number of ends to weave in, this version is also knitted in one piece - and flat.

Trikonasana is the name for the triangle pose in yoga.

I haven't done much yoga lately, but I resolved to do the 30/30 Yoga Challenge by Ekhart Yoga in September. (I've often taken resolutions like that but never quite accomplished them - maybe announcing it publicly (sort of) helps :)




This work by Kntting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials

• three 3mm needles
• about 25 grams of fingering weight yarn
• scrap yarn (for provisional CO and to hold some stitches) 
• a crochet hook (for provisional CO)
• a tapestry needle to graft and to weave in ends.

Techniques and Special Stitches

• Provisonal CO: My preferred method of a provisional cast-on is the crochet provisional CO – as shown in this YouTube Video by lucyneatby
• Grafting in stockinette stitch (aka Kitchener stitch): As shown for example in this YouTube video by WEBS - America's Yarn Store
• pfb: purl first into the front and then into the back loop of one stitch, a purl increase, here’s a YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter that shows a pfb

Gauge and What to Measure
Before starting to knit measure the circumference of your ankles. You will be asked to knit until you have reached half of that circumference.
As to the width of your stitches, I had 13 stitches to 5 cm. However, this is one of the cases where knitting a swatch is actually more work than casting on “normally” and ripping back after a few rows if the piece is too wide or too narrow.
Please note that the actual width of the pice is not measured at the edge, but along the knitting direction or 45 degrees off the edge.


Construction
The pictures below shows the general construction. You start with half of the intended lenght of the sock multiplied by 1.4. (I wanted the sock to measure about 2 x 7 cm = 14 cm) - since I'm knitting slanted I aimed for about 9.8 cm (7 cm (half the lenght) x 1,4 = 9.8 cm). Since 13 stitches give 5 cm, about 25 stitches will give about 9.8 cm.

Then you knit half of the sock's circumference in slanted horizontal ribs and afterwards provisionally CO the other half of the intended stitches. The part that is knitted next is used to cover the back of the foot and the front part of your ankles (Part 2 - wide part in the middle). At the end of part 2 you put half of your stitches on scrap yarn.  Then you continue in another narrow strip of slanted horizontal ribs.
The piece looks now as shown in the photo below. To finish it you need to graft the two seams as shown in the schematic.

Instructions

Part 1:
Provisionally CO 25 sts but leave a tail long enough to graft these stitches
Row 1: k all sts
Row 2: k1, kfb, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Row 3: p1, p to end
Row 4: p1, pfb, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1

Repeat rows 1 to 4 until the side edge (when stretched a bit) is about half the circumference of your feet. Stretching the piece while measuring it, will help the socks to fit snugly, The ribbing is quite strechy, so it needs to be knitted with some negative ease.

Part 2:
Row 1: k all sts then with scrap yarn and on a new needle provisionally CO 25 more stitches and continue knitting (k) (see picture 1)

Knit rows 2 to 4 as in part 1.

Then repeat rows 1 to 4 (as in part 1) until the sock (measured in kntting direction) measures the circumference of your foot – when being stretched a bit.
End with a row 3

Row 4; p1, pfb, p20, p2tog, p1  and put the remaining stitches (there should 25 sts left) on a piece of scrap yarn. Turn your work - it should look as in picture 2.

Part 3:
Knit rows 1 to 4 (as in part 1) as many times as you knitted in part 1.
However, do not knit row 4 of the last repeat - end with a row 3.

Cut your yarn leaving a tail long enough to graft the seam. Open the stitches from the second provisional CO and catch them on a knitting needle. Hold the two needles together so that two purl ridges are the uppermost rows on the needles (see picture 3). And with a tapestry needle graft in stockinette stitch.

Once you've finished grafting this seam, open the stitches from the first provisional CO and catch them on a needle, also put the stitches you put on scrap yarn at the end of part 2 on another needle.
Hold the two needles together so that two purl ridges are the uppermost rows on the needles (see picture 4). And with a tapestry needle graft in stockinette stitch.

Weave in ends.

Second sock
If you want your socks to be symmetrical (i.e. one is the mirror image of the other) you need to turn one of them inside out, i.e. redefining the former RS to now WS. So after you've grafted the second one, make sure to weave in your ends on the new WS side.