Serpentina Mitts

These mitts were knitted during the time of carnival. I wanted to knit something with a slightly tipsy feeling - that's why I added
random surface crochet. Serpentina is the spanish word for a paper streamer :).

They are knitted sideways in simple stockinette stitch, with some shaping added using short rows.

Adding surface crochet is a good way to mix colours, especially with variegated yarn that has a dramatic colour change – as with the mitts in the picture where the colour changes from a very light pink to a dark turquoise.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Important: the surface crochet is applied completely at random, i.e. the pattern below will NOT give a detailed descriptions where to put the surface crochet stitches. There are, however, tips of how to achieve a similar look.

Materials

• ca. 30 grams of variegated fingering weight yarn
• a long 3.5mm circular needles
• a 2.5mm or 3mm crochet hook
• scrap yarn (for provisional cast on)
• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techiques

• Provisional Cast-On: I prefer to do a crocheted provisional cast on with scap yarn - here's a video that shows how to do it.
• Surface Crochet: Using a crochet hook, you make slip stitches through your knitted fabric. The photo on the right shows how it looks when adding surface slip stitches to a knitted fabric. Here's a video and here's a tutorial that both show surface crochet.
• Short Rows: A tutorial on short rows can be found here (http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html), however in this pattern, there will be short rows with wraps (the usual wrap and turn (w+t)), but also short rows without wraps, to create the thumb opening.
• Kitchener Stitch: A video that shows the kitchener Stitch (or grafting) on stockinette can be found here on knittinghelp.com. Or - if you prefer text to video - here's a vogueknitting tutorial on the subject.

Instructions

Provisionally cast on 45 stitches (if you use the crochet on method, this means crochet on your stitches with scrap yarn and knit the first row with the yarn you'll use for the mitts)
R1 (RS): sl1 k to end
R2 (WS): sl1 p to end

Repeat until there are 11 rows of stockinette stitch
R12: apply random loops and curves of surface crochet on RS - while doing so, cross the complete width of the mitt, end near the last stitch of this row (i.e. where you would have ended, had you knitted the row). Now the tip of your knitting needle is on the opposite side as your yarn, therefore, slip all stitches to correct this. Put the last crochet loop on your knitting needle.

R13 (RS): sl2, pass first slipped stitch over second slipped stitch, k9, place marker, k to end
R14 (WS, thumb row):
- sl1 p to last st before marker, k1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP the yarn around the next stitch (you want to create the opening for your thumb!)
- k12, w+t, p11, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k11 w+t, p10, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k7 w+t, p6, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k6 w+t, p5, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k4 w+t, p3, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k5 w+t, p4, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- p to end
R15 (RS): sl1, k to end
R16 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue 4 more rows of stockinette stitch
R20 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
knit 2 more rows of stockinette stitch
R24: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

The photo on the right shows the mitt after row 25, i.e. the thumb has been knitted and surface crochet has been applied twice.

R25 (RS): sl1, k to end
R26 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue in stockinette 7 more rows
R30 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
R31 (RS): sl1, k to end
R32: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

Repeat rows R25 to R32 two more times (or until the mitts are wide enough for your hands continue 5 more rows in in stockinette stitch.

Undo your provisional cast on and put the stitches on a second needle. Break yarn and thread yarn into a tapestry needle. Hold both needles together and start grafting in stockinette stitch.

You can knit the second mitt exactly as the first one, however, if you want them to be more symmetrical (i.e. with the graft line mirror-inverted at the same place), you have to use a slightly different set of instructions for the second mitt:

• start "thumb row" one row later (row 14 is just a normal purl-row) and knit it as follows:
  - sl1 k to last st before marker, p1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP - p12, w+t, k11, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p11 w+t, k10, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p7 w+t, k6, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p6 w+t, k5, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p4 w+t, k3, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p5 w+t, k4, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - k to end 

• start "shaping rows" one row later (i.e. the row before is just a normal purl row) and knit them as follows:R21 (RS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, k39, w+t, p20, w+t, k to end

How to apply the surface crochet to get a similar look to the mitts in the photo

1) When applying surface crochet try to use all of the available space – not just the rows you last knitted. This also helps to distribute the colours.

2) Furthermore try to avoid crocheting straight lines, go for loops and curves instead.

3) The first time you apply surface crochet don’t make the loops too close to one another, when you do it the next time, you can (should) go over them again and you’ll need space for it.

4) After grafting the application of surface crochet gets more difficult (it gets cumbersome to hold the yarn within the newly formed tube and reach it with your crochet hook from the outside), therefore it’s easier to apply it before grafting. However, to get a consistent look, some surface crochet should be applied crossing the grafted row. The photo on the right shows how some surface crochet crosses the "graft line" (where turquois meets pink).

5) Since the mitts are knitted in stockinette stitch, they tend to roll in at the side; it rolls in less if the surface crochet loops come close to the edges

Entangled

Fingerless gloves knitted sideways with lots of random surface crochet ... 

Pieces of Eight Mitts

It was a topological challenge for me to get these  mitts right.  These fancy fingerless gloves are knitted in one piece (no yarn cutting involved) beginning at the thumb. The "Eight”-Shape is achieved by increasing in the first part of a row, and decreasing in the second part.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Dansk / Danish: A danish version is available here on strikkeglad.dk or here as a PDF. With big thanks to MarianneHo (Ravelry name). Mange tak!

Dutch / Nederlands: Carolien (or mijikke on Ravelry) has provided a Dutch translation of the Pieces of Eight Mitts. Hartelijk bedankt! You can find it here on my blog.

Japanese / 日本語: A video tutorial in japanese has been provided by Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと). It can be found on YouTube here: Part 1, Part 2

Deutsch / German: Two german versions of these have been written by Renate Schattschneider:

• for fingering weight yarn (link to ravelry)
• for sports weight yarn (link to ravelry)

Eine deutsche Version von diesen Handschuhen wurde von Renate Schattschneider erstellt:

• für 4-fädiges Sockengarn (Ravelry-Link)
• für 6-fädiges Garn (Ravelry-Link)

A crochet version of this pattern - called Octavo Fingerless Gloves - is available here.

Techniques
 A knitter who wants to knit these mitts should know the following techniques:

• k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch  and p1, yo, p1 into the same stitch (i.e. double increases)
• Cable cast-on midwork: As shown in this video.
• Three-needle bind-off – as shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU
• Grafting: stockinette & garter stitch.
• How to knit a circle – since the effect is done with circle increases and decreases, it’s helpful if the general idea is known: In general a circle is knitted as follows:
  CO8 and join in round
  Round 1 and all odd numbered rounds: k
  Round 2: *k1 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 2nd stitch is doubled) (-> 16 sts)
  Round 4: * k2 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 3rd stitch is doubled)(-> 24 sts)
  Round 6: * k3 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 4th stitch is doubled) (-> 32 sts)
  Round 8: * k4 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 5th stitch is doubled) (-> 40 sts)
  … The formula should clear by now, i.e. that you increase by 8 stitches every other row. It also means that the distance between the "doubled" stitches increases by one in each of the increase-rounds. The same formula will be used when constructing the mitts - increasing around the thumbs and decreasing at the lower wrist part. If you do the increases always at the same spot a pattern (maybe even corners) will become visible; to achieve a more circular look I started the increases at a randomized stitch in each increase row.
• Picking-up a selvage stitch and joining it at right angles to your knitting (similar to entrelac knitting): at the end of the WS row wyif a stitch is picked up from the side. After turning the work, this stitch is knitted together with the first stitch of the RS row. A slightly different way of doing it is shown here - ending up with the same result, i.e. joining the last stitch with a "stitch" picked up from the edge. Please note, that in case of these mitts the join is not side-to-side, but side-to-cast-on-row
• Furthermore, you should be comfortable with the idea to “smooth out” certain differences in stitch counts. It's no big deal if there is one stitch too many - you can always fix it in the next row by decreasing one.
• Please note, that the mitts are mirror inverted – to achieve this, the one mitt is turned inside out at one point (at this point RS becomes WS and WS becomes RS). 

The picture on the right shows where the techniques are used - referring also to the work steps as described in the instructions.


Non-Standard Abbreviations

• kyok: k1, leave on needle, yo and knit again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
• pyop: p1, leave on needle, yo and purl again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
• w+t: Wrap and turn - a technique for knitting short rows. It is shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.

Materials

• 35 grams of fingering weight yarn (a list of the yarns I used is given at the end of this post)
• a set of 3mm dpns and a 3mm circular needle – I changed needles throughout the project
• 2 stitch markers
• tapestry needle (for kitchener stitch and to weave in ends)

Instructions

The picture on the left illustrates how your knitting should look after completing some of the steps.

NOTE: Please note that the sequences to be repeated don't always match the number of stitches left (e.g. it might say "* kfb k6 repeat from *", but there are only 4 stitches left) - that's OK. Just continue with the sequence and stop when you run out of stitches (in case of the example above, just knit the kfb and knit the 3 stitches to the end).

First Mitt

Thumb
Step 1: CO18
Step 2: Knit 8 rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Step 3: Knit one round as follows: “k1, p1, k1, pyop, k1, p1, repeat from *  (there should be 24 stitches on your needles)
Step 4: Knit 5 more rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Only the thumb (steps 1 to 4) is knitted in the round, after that everything else is knitted back and forth in rows (steps 5 and following).

Step 5:
The stitch you're at right now will be called “starting point” during this step.
Row 1 (RS): k20 place marker (“marker 1”) k4, cast on 4 stitches (with cable cast on), place marker (“marker 2”), cast on 70 stitches
Row 2 (WS): k back to starting point; pick up and knit one or two stitches from gap between the  last stitch and the recently cast-on stitches; wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the first of the recently cast-on stitches (just as you’d do for entrelac).
Now the circle increases and decreases are started: there will be increases up to marker 1, plain knitting between the two markers, and decrease from marker 2 to the end of row.
Row 3 (RS): k2tog (the stitch you just picked up and the first stitch of the row), *k2 kfb repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k8 repeat from ** to end
Row 4 and all other even rows until the next step (WS): k to starting point, wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the cable cast on
Row 5 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k1 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k4 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 7 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k3 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k7 ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 9 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 11 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k4 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 13 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k1 kfb k6 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 15 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k7 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 17 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k2 kfb k7 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 19 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k5 kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 21 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k8 kfb k3 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 23 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), k to marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end

Step 6:
There should now be 3 stitches between marker 2 and the end – adding up to 11 together with the stitches from between the markers – these 11 stitches will be on one needle for the three-needle bind-off. With another needle pick-up 11 stitches from the edge, do a three-needle bind-off over these 11 stitches. Make sure the bind-off is done from the WS. Remove the markers.
If the stitch number doesn’t match exactly, move one stitch from one needle to the other, or use one stitch from the other side of marker 1.
After the three needle bind off, knit back to starting point counting the stitches. There should be 93 stitches.


Step 7: First Set of short Short-Rows to widen the wrists
Place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (RS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.
(The stitches you did before the BO will not be knitted until they are grafted during part 10 - you can leave them on your needles (especially if you're using long circulars) or you can put them on a stitch holder. As you can see from the photos, I just left them where they were.)

Step 8: Second Set of Short Rows to widen the wrists
Still on the RS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9: Widen the mitt
You now knit several rows of garter stitch until the mitt is wide enough to fit your hands, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1 k
Row 2 (RS): sl1 k
Row 3 (WS): sl1 k
While you're knitting the first rows during step 9 count your stitches and compare it with the stitch number on the other side (i.e. the ones you left after step 7), if the numbers are not equal, increase of decrease to get an equal number of stitches (decreases are best done somewhere close to the marker).
Repeat rows  2 and 3 six more times (or until the mitt fits).

Step 10: Graft sides together
Cut yarn leaving a tail of about 1 meter. With tapestry needle graft sides together in garter stitch.


Second Mitt

The instructions for the second mitt are similar to the first one. Except that at one point, the mitt is turned inside out in order to mirror-invert the curves. Only the differences to the first mitt are listed here.

Knit Steps 1 through 5 as described for the Left Hand mitts except the steps listed below.


Step 3: Knit one round as follows: * k1, p1, kyok,  p1, k1, p1 repeat from *


Step 6:
Turn mitt inside out. Everything on your mitt that was RS is now WS (and vice versa). Make sure to do the three-needle bind off from the NEW WS.

Step 7:
The first short rows will be added at the opposite side, i.e.place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.

Step 8:
Here also the sides are mirror inverted (compared to the first mitt), i.e.

Still on the WS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9:
Knit the same number of garter stitch rows you knitted for the first mitt.

Step 10:
Graft in stockinette stitch.

Yarns

The "eight"-effect comes out best when using variegated yarn, here's the list of yarns I used for the mitts in the photos.

• The green-blue ones in the first and last picture are knitted with sock yarn from a German discounter (Aldi Süd). However, the yarn is listed at Ravelry - it's colorway 555.
• For the red-yellow-green ones, I used Schoeller+Stahl Fortissima Mexiko (colorway 252)
• The neon ones (in the step-by-step pictures) is Regia Fluormania Color - colorway 7184.

Winding Mitts

These "garter stitch only" mitts are
constructed from two rhomboids - the thumb panel and a main part.
Short row triangles in wind their way around your wrists creating a unique pattern.






This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.


Materials:

• A total of 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours
  - Main Colour (MC) – white on the photo
  - Contrast Colour (CC) – dark on the photo
• 3mm needles (straight needles for thumb panel and main part – dpns for finishing the thumbs)
• Stitch holders or scrap yarn
• Tapestry needle

Techniques or Abbreviations:

• Short Rows: a tutorial on short rows can be found here: http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html

•  w+t: wrap and turn - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4GxFvi4KD0 
• pick up wraps - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xaz41JTkLc

• Picking up stitches from the side: Without your working yarn, insert the needle into the front leg of the edge stitch from back to front. A photo how this looks like, is shown in a post regarding the short wave mitts. Here’s a Knitty-article that explains picking up stitches in detail (also the difference between "picking up" and "picking up and knit"): http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TT.html

• Backwards loop cast-on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojOU7Bco4dM

• Grafting in Garter Stitch: Cut the yarn but leave a long enough tail (I usually take about 5 to 6 times the length of the seam). Put the yarn on a tapestry needle. For setting up insert tapestry needle purlwise into the first stitch - first on the front needle, then on the back needle. * Now insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch, then insert it purlwise in the next stitch but leave that on the needle. Do the same on the back needle - then repeat from * until there are no more stitches on your needles.
  If my explanation is too wordy, I found a video that shows it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAEIogIli6o

The picture below shows the general construction of the mitts. As you can see, left hand mitt and right hand mitt are mirror inverted. That's why there will be two different descriptions - one for each mitt.

Left mitt (with left-leaning thumb panel)

Thumb panel

With Main Colour CO9
R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
R4 (RS): sl1 ssk k4 kfb k1
Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

Now the thumb increases start: In short,  you make 12 increases (6 on each side of the thumb) distributed over 14 rows, while keeping up the increases and decreases at the sides. But, here it is in detail:

R53: s1 k1 place marker k2 place marker k to end
R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R55: sl1 k to end
R56: sl1 ssk,  k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R58: s1 k to end
R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R60: sl1, ssk, k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
R61: sl1, k to end
R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R63: sl1, k to end
R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 ssk, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 2 sts before end, kfb k1
R65: sl1, k to end
R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
R68: s1 ssk k4 kfb k1
R69-71: sl1 k to end
Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle

Still with MC, pick up and knit 47 stitches from the left side of the thumb panel, you have now  48 stitches on your needle, your working yarn is now on the lower edge of the mitt

Main part

With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

Row 1 (CC, RS): kfb, k to 2 sts before end, k2tog (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k31 w+t
Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k15 w+t
Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 2 sts before end, k2tog
Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
Row 9 (MC, RS): kfb, k31 w+t
Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
Row 11 (MC, RS): k17, w+t
Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6.) After a few repeats your mitt should look as shown in the photo.


With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


Thumb

Move the thumb stitches from the stitch holder to two dpns. Pick up and knit 4 stitches from above the thumb gusset. Knit the stitches that were on the stitch holders up until the last stitch. p2tog (this closes a potential the gap between the stitches from the stitch holder and the newly picked up stitches), p2, p2tog (to close the gap on the other side of the thumb). Purl to the end of round.

Round 3: k
Round 4: p

Repeat until 3 more times (or until the thumb is long enough). Bind off.

Weave in ends.


Right Mitt (with right-leaning thumb panel)

Basically, this mitt is the mirror image of its partner, so increases and decreases (especially at the edges) are exchanged. Furthermore, the thumb is started at a different point. But here are the instructions in detail. The parts that differ from the left mitt have been underlined.

Thumb Panel

With Main Colour CO9
R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
R4 (RS): s1 kfb k4 k2tog k1
Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

The thumb increases are similar to the ones on the other mitt - the only difference is the starting point.

R53: s1 k4, place marker, k2, place marker, k to end
R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R55: sl1 k to end
R56:  s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to endR58: s1 k to end
R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R60: s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
R61: sl1, k to end
R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R63: sl1, k to end
R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 kfb, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1
R65: sl1, k to end
R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end

R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
R68: s1 kfb, k4, k2tog, k1
R69-71: sl1 k to end
Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle

Main part

With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

Row 1 (CC, RS): ssk, k to 1 st before end, kfb (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k33 w+t
Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k17 w+t
Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 1 sts before end, kfb
Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
Row 9 (MC, RS): ssk, 28 w+t
Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
Row 11 (MC, RS): k13, w+t
Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6)

With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


Finish the thumb as described for the left hand mitt.

Twisted

Not quite sure whether the twist looks "as designed" or just as if the mitt doesn't fit ...

Cable Experiment Mitts with Latvian Twist

A friend asked me whether I could knit a pair of my Cable Experiment Mitts for her - in dark red with some orange ...  Without thinking much, I started the first mitt with a latvian twist at the lower edge - only to realize later that it would be difficult to the same thing on the upper edge. I ended up, knitting a seperate piece - the same latvian twist I did as the lower edge - and grafted it to the top.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

So, here's how I did it in more detail:

• I cast on 56 stitches as explained in the original pattern. 
•  But instead of joining them in the round, I knitted 6 rows of garter stitch (2 rows in the contrast colour (orange), 2 rows in the main colour (red) and 2 rows in the contrast colour. I then cut the yarn of the contrast colour.
• Using the main colour, I knitted 7 stitches and turned the rest of the stitches around the left-hand needle (that's the latvian twist - for more information see the links below), I repeated this to the end of the row and then joined the piece in the round.
• Leaving out the ribbing rows of the original pattern, I then started to knit the pattern repeats (rows 1 to 20) and followed the pattern (thumb gusset and all).
• When I had finished I cut the yarn (of the main colour) leaving a tail long enough for grafting.
• On a different needle I cast on 56 stitches and knitted 6 rows of garter stitch (2 in CC, 2 in MC and 2 in CC) - as on the lower edge I knitted (in MC) 7 stitches, turned the not-yet-knitted stitches around the left-hand needle and repeated that process to the end of the row.
• I then grafted the edge to the mitt, wove in the ends and started the second mitt :)

Some links:

• Here's a photo tutorial showing the latvian twist, however it is shown in stockinette stitch whereas I did it in garter stitch, but the principle (knit a few stitches, turn the rest of your stitches around the left-hand needle once) remains the same.
• Here's a video tutorial showing the latvian twist - again in stockinette. 
• Grafting in stockinette (kitchener stitch) is explained in this tutorial or shown in this video.

Pieces of Eight

Ever since I saw the Infinity Cardi-Wrap by Kristine Omdahl, I wanted to do something similar with fingerless gloves. It took me a three attempts to finally get it right.