Bauklötze Schal

Ein schönes Farbspiel mit graphischem Effekt - der ideale Schal für den Herbst. Dieser Schal ist (fast) nur kraus rechts gestrickt und daher einfach nachzustricken. Die einzelnen Elemente werden beim Stricken verbunden, d.h. es muss am Ende nichts speziell zusammengenäht werden - einzig die Fäden müssen vernäht werden.

 An english version of this pattern is available in this blogpost.

Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.

 

Material

• ca. 200 gr 12-fädiges Garn (ich habe Four Seasons Gründl Visione verwendet - hier der Link zum Garn auf Ravelry)
• 7 mm Nadeln
• eine Nähnadel, um die Enden zu vernähen

 

 

Techniken

• Gestrickter Maschenanschlag:  eine Methode um Maschen am Rand eines Strickstücks anzuschlagen, gezeigt hier im Video von Andrea "Maschenanschlag". 
• Stiche von der Seite des Strickstücks aufnehmen ("aufnehmen und abstricken"): Nadel in den oberen Querfaden des letzten Stiches der Reihe einführen (Fotos 1 und 2) und anschliessend den Arbeitsfaden durchziehen. In diesem Video von KnitPurlHunter wird nur der Aufnahmeteil gezeigt (das Abstricken erfolgt in der nächsten Reihe) - im Unterschied dazu werden die Maschen für diesen Schal direkt abgestrickt.

 

• Stiche von einer Abkettreihe aufnehmen und mit aktueller Reihe zusammenstricken: Nach dem Umdrehen des Strickstücks die linke Nadel von unten in die vordere Hälfte der abgeketteten Masche einführen (Foto 1); anschliessend diese "Masche" mit der ersten Masche auf der Nadel zusammenstricken. Diese Technik wird bei Rechteck B (ab dem zweiten Block) und Rechteck D (ab dem ersten Block) angewendet. 

 

Maschenprobe und Grösse
Kraus rechts gestrickt entsprechen etwa 13 Stiche 10 cm (Breite) und 7 Krausrippen (= 14 Reihen) etwa 5 cm (Höhe). Mein Schal ist etwa 22 cm breit und 186 cm lang (ich habe 8 Blöcke gestrickt).

 

Konstruktion

 

Das Bild rechts zeigt auf, wie der Schal zusammengesetzt ist. Er besteht aus übereinandergestapelten Blöcken, die jeweils aus 4 Rechtecken bestehen.

Jedes Rechteck ist 18 Stiche breit und 12 Krausrippen hoch. Die Rechtecke werden jeweils in der Reihenfolge A, B, C, D gestrickt. Die Rechtecke werden aneinander gestrickt - entweder durch Aufnehmen und Abstricken von Maschen am Rand eines anderen Rechtecks oder durch Aneinanderstricken mit der Abnehmkante eines anderen Rechtecks.

 

 

 

Anleitung

 

Block 1

 

Rechteck A

18 Maschen anschlangen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck B

5 Maschen anschlangen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag)

6 Maschen rechts stricken, dann am Rand von Rechteck 12 Maschen aufnehmen und abstricken (jetzt sollte es so aussehen, wie in Foto 1 und es sollten 18 Maschen auf der Nadel sein, 1 übrig von Rechteck A, 5 neu angeschlagene und 12 von der Seite aufgenommene)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck C

12 Maschen von der Seite des Rechtecks B aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - auch hier sollten 18 Maschen auf der Nadel sein (1 übrige vom Abketten von Rechteck B plus 12 an der Seite aufgenommene plus 5 neu angeschlagene)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

Rechteck D

12 Maschen von der Seite von Rechteck C aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - jetzt sieht es aus wie auf Foto 3.
Arbeit drehen.
Reihe 1: Am oberen Rand von Rechteck A vom Rand bis zur 12. abgeketteten Masche zählen (Foto 4), in diese 12. Masche einstechen und mit der ersten Masche auf der Nadel zusammenstricken. Rechts stricken bis zum Ende der Reihe
Reihe 2: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihe 3: in die nächste Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken; bis zum Ende rechte Maschen stricken
Reihe 4: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihen 3 und 4 noch 9 weitere Male stricken - nach einigen Reihen sollte das Strickstück wie auf Foto 4 aussehen.
Reihe 13: in die letzte Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken, dann diese Masche abketten, alle Stiche dieser Reihe abketten bis auf den letzten Stich

 

 

 

Block 2

 

Rechteck A

17 Stiche von der Seitkante des Rechtecks D und der oberen Kante des Rechtecks C aufnhmen (siehe Foto 6).

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck B

5 Maschen anschlangen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag)

6 Maschen rechts stricken, dann am Rand von Rechteck 12 Maschen aufnehmen und abstricken
Reihe 1: Die Arbeit drehen und in die erste freie Masche auf der Oberkante des Rechtecks C (des Blocks darunter) einstechen. Diese Masche mit der ersten Masche der Reihe zusammenstricken, die restlichen Maschen rechts stricken
Reihe 2: alle Maschen rechts stricken
Reihen 1 und 2 noch 10 mal wiederholen
Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.
 

Rechteck C

12 Maschen von der Seite des Rechtecks B aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - auch hier sollten 18 Maschen auf der Nadel sein (1 übrige vom Abketten von Rechteck B plus 12 an der Seite aufgenommene plus 5 neu angeschlagene)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck D

12 Maschen von der Seite von Rechteck C aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - jetzt sieht es aus wie auf Foto 3.
Arbeit drehen.
Reihe 1: Am oberen Rand von Rechteck A vom Rand bis zur 12. abgeketteten Masche zählen (Foto 4), in diese 12. Masche einstechen und mit der ersten Masche auf der Nadel zusammenstricken. Rechts stricken bis zum Ende der Reihe
Reihe 2: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihe 3: in die nächste Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken; bis zum Ende rechte Maschen stricken
Reihe 4: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihen 3 und 4 noch 9 weitere Male stricken - nach einigen Reihen sollte das Strickstück wie auf Foto 4 aussehen.
Reihe 13: in die letzte Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken, dann diese Masche abketten, alle Stiche dieser Reihe abketten bis auf den letzten Stich

  

Block 2 wiederholen bis der Schal lang genug ist.

Die letzte Reihe des Rechtecks D des letzten Blocks wie folgt stricken:

 

Reihe 13: in die letzte Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken, dann diese Masche abketten, alle Stiche dieser Reihe abketten.

 

Enden vernähen und vorsichtig spannen.

 

 

Bauklötze Scarf

Do you want a fun accessory that's perfect for autumn - here's the pattern for you: a scarf with an interesting graphic effect, that is great for variegated yarn. It is very easy to knit - basically garter stitch only - except for the stitches connecting one piece to another. Joined as you go, so no sewing pieces in the end. The only finishing techniques you need, is weaving in your ends.

As usual, I had some difficulties in finding a name for this scarf - so again I asked the members of knittingparadise.com for suggestions (here's the link to the thread), I loved some of the suggestions but in the end I decided to go for the bricks theme (suggested several times) - but I used a different language :) - "Bauklötze" is the German word for building bricks or toy bricks.

 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

German Version: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es in diesem Blogbeitrag.

 

Materials

• about 200 grams of bulky yarn
• 7mm needles (straight or circular)
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

 

 

Techniques

• Knitted CO: a method to cast on stitches at the end of a row, as shown in this video by VeryPinkKnits.
• Pickup and knit stitches (from side): insert the right hand needle into the upper bump of the last stitch of the row (photos 1 and 2), and draw your yarn through the loop (photos 3 and 4)

 

• Pick up and connect (with a bind-off row): When you've turned your piece insert the left hand needle from below into the front leg of the bind off stitch (photo 1), then - as if to k2tog - insert the left hand needle into the first stitch on the needle and into the leg of the bind off stitch (photo 2) and draw your yarn through both loops (photo 3). In the pattern this sequence will be called (k2tog-connect).

 

Gauge and Measurements

In garter stitch, about 13 stitches equal 10 cm in width - and 7 ridges (14 rows) equal 5 cm in height. My finished scarf (unblocked) is about 22 cm wide and 186 long (I knitted 8 blocks).

 

General Construction

 

The picture on the right shows the general construction of this scarf. It consists of a number of blocks that in turn consists of 4 rectangles.

 

Each rectangle is 18 stitches wide and 12 garter stitch ridges high. For each block the rectangles are knit in the sequence A, B, C, D. The rectangles are connected to each other

• either by picking up and knitting stitches from the side or top of the last rectangle
• or by picking up and connecting with stitches from a bind-off.

 

Instructions

 

Block 1

 

Rectangle A

CO 18 (with knitted CO)

Knit 11 ridges of garter stitch (knit all stitches)

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle B

CO5 (with knitted CO)

Knit 6, pick up and knit 12 sts from the side of rectangle A (your piece should now look similar to photo 1)

Knit 11 ridges of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle C

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle B, CO5 (with knitted CO) (your piece should now look similar to photo 2)

Knit 11 rigdes of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

Rectangle D

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle C, CO5 (with knitted CO) (your piece should now look similar to photo 3)

Row 1: k2tog-connect, k to end (connect your first row to the 12th stitch of rectangle A counted from the left hand edge of the piece, see photo 4)

Row 2: k all

Repeat rows 1 and 2 ten more times - after a few rows your piece should look similar to photo 4

Row 13: k2tog-connect, BO all except last stitch 

 

 

 

Block 2

 

Rectangle A

Pick up and knit 17 stitches from rectangles D and C of the block below

Knit 11 ridges of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle B

CO5 (with knitted CO)

Knit 6, pick up and knit 12 from rectangle A
Row 1: k2tog-connect to BO of rectangle C of block below, k to end (start to connect right next to the last picked up stitch from rectangle A, i.e. don't leave a gap)
Row 2: k all

Repeat rows 1 and 2 ten more times

Last row: BO all except last stitch

  

Rectangle C = Rectangle C of block 1

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle B, CO5 (with knitted CO)

Knit 11 rigdes of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle D = Rectangle D of block 1

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle C, CO5 (with knitted CO) (your piece should now look similar to photo 3)

Row 1: k2tog-connect, k to end (connect your first row to the 12th stitch counted of rectangle A from the left hand side edge of the piece)

Row 2: k all

Repeat rows 1 and 2 ten more times

Row 13: k2tog-connect, BO all except last stitch 

 

Repeat block 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it.

 

In the last block change row 13 of rectangle D as follows:

Row 13: k2tog-connect, BO all

 

I knitted a total of 8 rectangles.

 

Weave in ends and block lightly.

 

Patchwork Cowl

As the days get colder and greyer, knit yourself this lovely and colourful cowl. It is knitted flat and all in garter stitch. Due to its unique construction it brings out the best of your variegated yarn, e.g. your Zauberball or your Noro yarn. It is basically a variation of an entrelac pattern, but with blocks (squares and rectangles) of different sizes.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 200 grams of fingering weight yarn - preferably variegated yarn
• 3.25mm needles (straight or circulars) 
• a third needle (for three-needle BO)
• a tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techniques and Stitches

• Knitted Cast On: https://youtu.be/xocjmpglM1Q
• Pick up and knit:  https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Join stitches at the edge - as in entrelac: k2tog of the following stitch with the next stich of the underlying rectangle/square. A similar method (but with an ssk instead of an k2tog) is shown in this YouTube video. I will call this stitch k2tog-join in the pattern.
• Pick up stitches (without knitting them): https://youtu.be/7c5IzAE_hn8
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0

Construction

Figure X shows the general construction of the cowl. It is knitted flat and connected in the end (i.e. after the last layer or connected while knitting the last layer).

Figure 1: General Construction

Figure 2 shows how the layers make up the cowl. Odd-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 rectangles that are 8 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 rectangles that are 16 stitches wide and 16 ridges high. Even-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 that are 16 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 that are 8 stitches wide and 16 ridges high.

Rectangles/squares from one layer are knitted at a 90 degree angle to the knitting direction of the layer below.

Figure 2: Layers

In even numbered layers, rectangle 1 connects to square 5 of the layer below, rectangle 2 uses stitches picked up from square 5 of the layer below as base and is connected at the side to square of of the layer below, rectangle 3 is based on picked up stitches from the side of square 4 of the layer below and is connected to square 3 of the layer below ... and so on.

In layer 3 and the following odd numbered layers, square 1 is based on stitches from the side of rectangle 5 of the layer below and connected at the side to rectangle 4 of the layer below, and so on. The last square of an odd numbered layer is based on the stitches from rectangle 1 of the layer below and not connected while knitting it.

Instructions

Layer 1

Square 1 

CO8 stitches with knitted CO

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 2

CO 16 stitches with knitted CO (your piece should look as shown in photo 1 of picture A)

Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

Square 3 (=  Square 1)

CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 4 (= Square 2)

CO 16 stitches with knitted CO 

Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

(Now your piece should look similar to photo 1 of picture A)

Square 5 (= Square 1)

CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Layer 2

Rectangle 1

CO15 with knitted CO (your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture A)

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k to end, turn

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join

Row 4: sl1, k to end, turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times

Row 15: sl1 k14, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 2

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k7, turn

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 3

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k15, turn

Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k15 turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) more times

Row 15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 4

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k7, turn

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 5

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k15, turn

Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k15 turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six more times

Row  15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join

Row 16: BO15 stitches



Picture A: Illustrations for Layers 1 and 2

Layer 3

Square 1

Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 5 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles

Row 2: sl1, k to end

Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 4 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) times

Row 15: sl1, k to end

Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 2

Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 4 of the layer below, TURN

Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) times

Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 3

Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 3 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles

Row 2: sl1, k7, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 2 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3  six (6) times

Row 15: sl1, k to end

Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

  

Square 4

Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 2 of the layer below, TURN

Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3  fourteen (14) times

Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 5

Row 1: pick up and knit 8 stitches from side of rectangle 1 of layer below

Rows 2-15: sl1, k7

DO NOT TURN but go on knitted CO of next layer

Repeat Layers 2 and 3 until the piece is roughly as long as you want it. Make sure to end with a layer 3.

 

Picture B: Illustrations for Last Layer

Last Layer

The last layer is basically the same as layer 2 with connections to the very first layer. This requires connecting the very first CO and connecting to the last knitted layer at the same time which can feel a bit awkward ... if you want to avoid this, you can just knit one more layer 2 and then sew the edges together.

However, here's how to do it without sewing.

Fold the scarf in a way so that the first layer faces the last layer with a gap about one layer wide (see photo 1 of picture B)

Rectangle 1

CO15 with knitted CO

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 5 of the very first layer.

Rectangle 1 will not only be connected to the last layer but also to these stitches picked up from the first layer. See photo 2 in picture B.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 5 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times

Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 4 of layer 1.

Your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture B

Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle. (See photo 4 of picture B)

Rectangle 2

Pick up and knit 8 stitches (from the side of square 4 of the layer below)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 4 of layer 1).

Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 4 of the layer below and square 4 of the first layer.

See photo 5 of picture B.

Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle

With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 3 of layer 1.

Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 3

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 3 of the very first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 3 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times.

Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 2 of layer 1.

Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 4

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 2 of layer 1). See photo 6 of picture B.

Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 2 of the layer below and square 2 of the first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle

With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 1 of layer 1.

Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 5

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 1 of the very first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 1 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 seven (7) more times.

Row 18: BO all stitches  

Weave in ends and block gently.



This blogpost was featured at Be A Crafter Craft Along Link Party #148, Oui Crochet's Fiber Tuesday Linkparty #82 and at Knitting Love Link Party #15 by Underground Crafter. Thank you!

Zauberball Tiling

Recently, when I thought again about what to do with my two skeins of Zauberball Fuchsienbeet. I had them lying around since I tried something with them last year which didn't exactly work out.

This time I wanted to try a (sort of) entrelac pattern, but with different sized patches. Even though the colors don't distribute as evenly as I would like them to, I really like how it looks. The pattern reminds me of parquetry or tiling. 

Fingerless Gloves with Stacked Stitces

Ever since I've seen stacked stitches I wanted to do my own patterns with it. I first succeed earlier this year when I knitted my Stack Overflow Cowl (free pattern available here), but I always wanted to do fingerless gloves with this technique.

I first imagined something knitted in the round around the thumb (a bit like my Circle Mitts, but with stacked stitches), but I haven't managed to make that work (yet?). So I decided to do something on the lines of the Strata Fingerless Gloves but with a panel of stacked stitches on the back of the hands.

So far, I like it. But I haven't decided yet, whether to make the second one exactly the same or with opposing colors, i.e. starting with the lighter tone and using the darker yarn only for the stacked stitches ...

Checkered Lace Scarf

In preparation for autumn, my mum asked me to knit a new black scarf for her to match her black mitts.

I wanted to do something no completely black, so I tried to introduce some kind of "pattern" with lace stitches to loosen up the black a bit. I ended up with a checkered pattern, with rectangles of lace alternating with garter-stitch-only rectangles.

The pattern looks the same from RS and WS, i.e. it is completely reversible.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





Materials

• 150 to 200 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3.5mm needles
• 4 stitch markers
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Construction

The scarf consists of 5 squares (or nearly squares) in width - alternating garter stitch squares with lace squares. The arrangement of the squares is shown in the picture below.

How to Knit the Lace Squares

Row 1: * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from *
Row 2: * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from *
Row 3: k all
Row 4: * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from *
Row 5: * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from *
Row 6: k all

When knitting one of the side rectangles, the lace part is widened with 2 edge stitches.

Instructions

CO64
Setup Row: sl1 k13, pm (= place marker), k12, pm, k12, pm, k12, pm, k14

Since the pattern is reversible and looks the same from RS and WS, I'd advise you to mark the RS as soon as possible.

2x Lace Section
Row 1a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 2a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 3a (RS):  sl1, k all
Row 4a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 5a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 6a (WS): sl1, k all
Knit rows 1a to 6a two more times
Inbetween row (RS): sl1, k all

3x Lace-Section
Row 1b (WS): sl1, k1 * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 2b (RS): sl1, k1, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 3b (WS): sl1, k all
Row 4b (RS):  sl1, k1 * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 5b (WS): sl1, k1, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 6b (RS): sl1, k all
Knit rows 1b to 6b two more times
Inbetween row (WS): sl1, k all

Repeat alternating 2x Lace-Sections and 3xLace-Sections until the scarf is about as long as you'd like it.

End with 2x Lace-Section as follows
Row 1a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 2a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 3a (RS):  sl1, k all
Row 4a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 5a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 6a (WS): sl1, k all
Knit rows 1a to 6a two more times
BO loosely.

Weave in ends and block gently.

Widows Weeds Fingerless Gloves

After my dad died earlier this year, my mum asked me to knit a pair of black fingerless gloves for her. I decided on something unspectacular with an easy lace pattern, so that it would be suitable of early spring and not too flashy.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 25 to 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm dpns
• 3 stitch markers
• scrap yarn or yarn holder 
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

Lace pattern 

This lace pattern works in the round with any multiple of 8 stitches:

Round 1: p1, k7 

Round 2: p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1

Round 3: p1, k7 

Round 4: p1, k7 

Round 5: p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, 

Round 6: p1, k7 

Instructions

CO48 (or any other muliple of 8) and join in round and place a stitch marker to mark the end of the round

Knit 6 rows of p1, k3-ribbing

Then start the lace pattern

Round 1: * p1, k7, repeat from *

Round 2: * p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from *

Round 3: * p1, k7, repeat from * 

Round 4: * p1, k7, repeat from * 

Round 5: * p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, repeat from * 

Round 6: * p1, k7,  repeat from * 

and repeat rounds 1 to 6 until you start the thumb gusset. In the last round place two stitch markers around one purl channel

Thumb gusset

While continuing the lace pattern for the rest of the round knit the thumb gusset as follows

Round 1: [lace pattern up to marker] into the purl stitch: k1 yo k1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 2: [lace pattern up to marker] p1 k1 p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 3: [lace pattern up to marker] p1 k1 p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 4: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, into the knit stitch: k1 yo k1, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 5: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 6: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 7: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, mk1r, k to 2 before marker, mk1l, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 8: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 9: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Repeat the last three rounds until the thumb hole is big enough for you (for me this was the case at 17 sts between the markers

In the next round, knit lace pattern up to marker, place the stitches between the markers on a stitch marker or some scrap yarn, CO1 (with backwards loop CO) and continue the lace pattern to the end of round.

Continue the lace patter for about 2 pattern repeats, and finish with 5 rounds of p1, k3-ribbing, BO in pattern.

Thumb

Remove thumb stitches from stitch holder, and pick up about 5 stitches from the gap (between last thumb stitch and top) and the underside of the backwards loop CO. 

(At this point I had 22 sts on my needles).

Knit stockinette stitch in rounds, knitting decreases in the first two rounds where the stitches from stitch holder meet the newly picked up stitches to avoid gaps. Continue with a few more stockinette stitch rounds. End with a few rows of p1, k2-ribbing. BO in patten.

(The ribbing you can do at the top of the thumb depends on the number of stitches that you aim for - I aimed for a multiple of 3 (22 sts minus twice two decreases = 22-2x2 = 18), that's why I did a p1k2-ribbing. If you finish on a multiple of 4, you can do a p1k3-ribbing to exactly match the ribbing at the top of the mitts.)

Make two.