Ad-hoc Project Basket

I always have a lot of unfinished objects (or works-in-progress) lying about ... ususally I put them in a bowl or a basket to keep them apart. On pinterest I found a nice idea where to put a project when all available bowls or baskets are already in use - an origami box made from a broadsheet newspaper (even though the origami pattern is called "garbage bin" ...). A wider version can be found here.

 

As usual, I'm not sure about the scarf idea :) But I do like the way the colours of this yarn (Arauncania Ranco Multy) show up when contrasted with black.

EDIT: The scarf on the photo was frogged, but the general idea made it into a free knitting pattern - called Nautilina Scarf and available here.

Streifen, Streifen und Streifen Schal

This is the German translation of my  "Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf" pattern -  as published a few days ago.

Dieser leichte Frühlingsschal wird von einer Spitze zur anderen gestrickt. Er besteht aus drei Teilen, die jeweils in einem 45 Grad-Winkel zueinander stehen. Der ganze Schal ist kraus-rechts  gestrickt mit verkürzten Reihen im mittleren Teil. Die Farben werden jeweils alle zwei Reihen gewechselt.

Wenn der Schal mit den unten angegebenen Maschenzahlen gestrickt wird, sollte das fertige Werk etwa 190 cm lang und 27 cm weit werden.




Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.



Benötigtes Material

• Insgesamt ca. 100 Gramm Sockengarn (4-fädig) – ich habe einen Strang in hellgrau (F1) und einen Strang mit sehr buntem Farbverlauf (F2) verwendet
• 3.5 mm Stricknadeln
• Nähnadel, um die Fäden zu vernähen

Techniken

• Verkürzte Reihen: Ein deutsches Video, das verkürzte Reihen erklärt, findet man hier (bei Drops). Wenn man kraus-rechts strickt, kann man entscheiden, ob man die Wicklung um die Maschen jeweils “aufhebt” (Wicklung über die Masche heben und gemeinsam abstricken - wie im Video gezeigt) oder nicht. Mir gefällt das Strickstück deutlich besser, wenn die Maschen "aufgehoben" werden. Aber egal, wie man sich entscheidet, man sollte konsistent bleiben.
  In der Anleitung wird die Abkürzung "w+t" verwendet um anzuzeigen, dass die nächste Masche umwickelt werden und das Strickstück gedreht werden soll.

Weitere Abkürzungen

• F1: Farbe 1
• F2: Farbe 2
• HR: Hinreihe (Vorderseite)
• RR: Rückreihe (Rückseite)
• M: Masche(n)
• kfb: aus einer Masche zwei herausstricken, indem man zuerst eine Masche aus dem vorderen, dann eine aus dem hinteren Maschenglied strickt
• ssk: nach links geneigte Abnahme, indem man zwei Maschen nacheinander rechts abhebt und dann rechts zusammen strickt

Anleitung

Das Bild auf der rechten Seite zeigt die generelle Konstruktion an, genauer gesagt, wie die drei Teile zusammen einen dreieckigen Schal ergeben.

Teil 1 – Zunahmen
Mit F1 zwei Maschen anschlagen
Reihe 1 (F1, HR): 2 M rechts
Reihe 2 (F1, RR): kfb, 1 rechts
Reihe 3 (F2, HR): ssk, bis zum letzten Stich rechts, kfb
Reihe 4 (F2, RR): kfb, bis zum Ende rechts
Reihe 5 (F1, HR): ssk, bis zum letzten Stich rechts, kfb
Reihe 6 (F2, RR): kfb, bis zum Ende rechts

Die Reihen 3 bis 6 solange wiederholen, bis 90 Stiche auf der Nadel sind oder bis die Länge der „Abnehmkante“ in etwa einem Drittel der gewünschten Schallänge entspricht.

Teil 2a – Verkürzte Reihen, die weiter werden
Reihe 1 (F2, HR+RR): 1 M rechts, ssk, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 2 (F1, HR+RR): bis und inklusive der gewickelten Masche rechts stricken, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 3 (F2, HR+RR): bis zur gewickelten Masche stricken, ssk (d.h. die gewickelte Masche und die nächste zusammen stricken), w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 4 (F1, HR+RR): bis und inklusive der gewickelten Masche rechts stricken, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken

Die Reihen 3 und 4 solange wiederholen, bis man mit der gewickelten Masche an der linken Seite angekommen ist.
Diese letzte Reihe (in C2, nachdem die  letzte Masche umwickelt wurde) wird wie folgt gestrickt: bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, letzte Masche (aufheben und) rechts stricken, Arbeit drehen, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken.

Jetzt sollte die Maschenanzahl ein Drittel niedriger sein als am Start von Teil 2a, also z.B. wenn man mit 90 Maschen begonnen hat, sollten es jetzt 60 sein.

Teil 2b – Verkürzte Reihen, die schmaler werden
Reihe 1 (F1, HR+RR): rechts bis zur letzten Masche  stricken, w+t, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 2 (F2, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, kfb, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 3 (F1, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken (d.h. in der HR bis vor den kfb-Stich stricken und dann den ersten Stich aus dem kfb der letzten Reihe umwickeln, d.h. die zweite Masche aus dem kfb wird in dieser Reihe (HR+RR) nicht gestrickt)
Reihe 4 (F2, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, kfb, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken

Reihen 3 und 4 solange wiederholen, bis der gestrickte Teil einer Reihe nur noch 2 Maschen umfasst.

Das Foto zeigt den Schal nachdem die ersten Reihen von Teil 2 gestrickt wurden.

Teil 3 - Abnahmen
Reihe 1 (F1, HR): bis zum  Ende rechts stricken (dabei alle gewickelten Maschen aufheben)
Reihe 2 (F1, RR): ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb
Reihe 3 (F2, HR): bis zu den letzten beiden Maschen rechts stricken, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken
Reihe 4 (F2, RR):  ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb
Reihe 5 (F1, HR):  bis zu den letzten beiden Maschen rechts stricken, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken
Reihe 6 (F1, RR):  ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb

Reihen 3 bis 6 solange wiederholen bis nur noch 2 Maschen auf der Nadel sind.
Diese Maschen abketten und die Enden vernähen.

Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf

This light stripy spring scarf is
knitted from side to side. It's constructed in three parts - all at different angles.

The scarf is garter stitch only, with some short rows to shape the middle part. Colours are alternated every second row.

If knitted with the stitch count given below, the scarf measures about 190 cm in length and 27 cm in width.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



I have written a german version of this pattern - it can be found here. Eine deutsche Version gibt es hier.

Material

• A total of 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours (I used one skein of light grey yarn and one skein of variegated yarn)
• 3.5 mm knitting needles
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Short Rows: A tutorial on short rows can be found here (http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html). The abbreviation used here will be "w+t" (wrap and turn), i.e. wrap the yarn around the next stitch and turn your work.
  With garter stitch you can decide whether to pick up the wrapped stitches or not. I chose to pick them up - I even used a slightly more complicated way because I wanted to hide the wrap that was in last row's colour. First I turned the wrapped stitch, then I picked up the front part of the wrap and placed it on the needle, and finally I knitted it through the back loop. Whatever you choose, it's best to stay consistent throughout the project.

Instructions

The picture on the right shows the general construction, i.e. how the 3 parts fit together to produce a triangular scarf knitted from side to side - but with a slant.


Part 1 - Increasing
CO2 with colour 1 (white in the photos)
Row 1 (C1, RS):  k
Row 2 (C1, WS): kfb, k1
Row 3 (C2, RS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 4 (C2, WS): kfb, k to end
Row 5 (C1, RS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 6 (C1, WS): kfb, k to end
Repeat rows 3-6 until the ssk-edge measures about one third of the desired length (I repeated until I had 90 stitches on my needles)

Part 2a - Short rows getting wider
Row 1 (C2, RS+WS): k1, ssk, w+t, k to end
Row 2 (C1, RS+WS): k to and including wrapped stitch, w+t, k to end
Row 3 (C2, RS+WS): k to last wrapped stitch, ssk (i.e. knit wrapped stitch and next stitch together), w+t, k to end
Row 4 (C1, RS+WS): k to and including wrapped stitch, w+t, k to end

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have reached the left side.

The last row (C2, after the last stitch has been wrapped) is knitted as follows: k to last stitch, (pick it up and) knit it, turn work and knit back

The stitch count should be one third lower than at the beginning of part 2a, e.g. if your stitch count was 90 when you started thes part, it should be 60 now.

Part 2b - Short rows getting narrower
Row 1 (C1, RS+WS): k to last stitch, w+t, k to end
Row 2 (C2, RS+WS): k to st before last wrapped stitch, w+t, kfb, k to end
Row 3 (C1, RS+WS): k to 2 sts before last wrapped stitch (i.e. before the stitches that came from last row's kfb), w+t, k to end
(i.e. you wrap around one stitch from the kfb and leave the second one unknitted)
Row 4 (C2, RS+WS): k to st before last wrapped stitch, w+t, kfb, k to end

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are only two knitted stitches in the row.

The picture shows the scarf after a few rows of part 2b have been completed.
 
Part 3 - Decreasing
Row 1 (C1, RS): k to end (picking up all wrapped stitches)
Row 2 (C1, WS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 3 (C2, RS): k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 4 (C2, WS):  ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 5 (C1, RS):  k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 6 (C1, WS):  ssk, k to last stitch, kfb

Repeat rows 3 to 6 until there are only 2 stitches left on your needles.
Bind off and weave in ends.

Stripes in Curious Angles

Still not sure how this scarf will look when it's finished ...

Serpentina Mitts

These mitts were knitted during the time of carnival. I wanted to knit something with a slightly tipsy feeling - that's why I added
random surface crochet. Serpentina is the spanish word for a paper streamer :).

They are knitted sideways in simple stockinette stitch, with some shaping added using short rows.

Adding surface crochet is a good way to mix colours, especially with variegated yarn that has a dramatic colour change – as with the mitts in the picture where the colour changes from a very light pink to a dark turquoise.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Important: the surface crochet is applied completely at random, i.e. the pattern below will NOT give a detailed descriptions where to put the surface crochet stitches. There are, however, tips of how to achieve a similar look.

Materials

• ca. 30 grams of variegated fingering weight yarn
• a long 3.5mm circular needles
• a 2.5mm or 3mm crochet hook
• scrap yarn (for provisional cast on)
• tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techiques

• Provisional Cast-On: I prefer to do a crocheted provisional cast on with scap yarn - here's a video that shows how to do it.
• Surface Crochet: Using a crochet hook, you make slip stitches through your knitted fabric. The photo on the right shows how it looks when adding surface slip stitches to a knitted fabric. Here's a video and here's a tutorial that both show surface crochet.
• Short Rows: A tutorial on short rows can be found here (http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html), however in this pattern, there will be short rows with wraps (the usual wrap and turn (w+t)), but also short rows without wraps, to create the thumb opening.
• Kitchener Stitch: A video that shows the kitchener Stitch (or grafting) on stockinette can be found here on knittinghelp.com. Or - if you prefer text to video - here's a vogueknitting tutorial on the subject.

Instructions

Provisionally cast on 45 stitches (if you use the crochet on method, this means crochet on your stitches with scrap yarn and knit the first row with the yarn you'll use for the mitts)
R1 (RS): sl1 k to end
R2 (WS): sl1 p to end

Repeat until there are 11 rows of stockinette stitch
R12: apply random loops and curves of surface crochet on RS - while doing so, cross the complete width of the mitt, end near the last stitch of this row (i.e. where you would have ended, had you knitted the row). Now the tip of your knitting needle is on the opposite side as your yarn, therefore, slip all stitches to correct this. Put the last crochet loop on your knitting needle.

R13 (RS): sl2, pass first slipped stitch over second slipped stitch, k9, place marker, k to end
R14 (WS, thumb row):
- sl1 p to last st before marker, k1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP the yarn around the next stitch (you want to create the opening for your thumb!)
- k12, w+t, p11, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k11 w+t, p10, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k7 w+t, p6, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k6 w+t, p5, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k4 w+t, p3, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k5 w+t, p4, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- p to end
R15 (RS): sl1, k to end
R16 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue 4 more rows of stockinette stitch
R20 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
knit 2 more rows of stockinette stitch
R24: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

The photo on the right shows the mitt after row 25, i.e. the thumb has been knitted and surface crochet has been applied twice.

R25 (RS): sl1, k to end
R26 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue in stockinette 7 more rows
R30 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
R31 (RS): sl1, k to end
R32: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

Repeat rows R25 to R32 two more times (or until the mitts are wide enough for your hands continue 5 more rows in in stockinette stitch.

Undo your provisional cast on and put the stitches on a second needle. Break yarn and thread yarn into a tapestry needle. Hold both needles together and start grafting in stockinette stitch.

You can knit the second mitt exactly as the first one, however, if you want them to be more symmetrical (i.e. with the graft line mirror-inverted at the same place), you have to use a slightly different set of instructions for the second mitt:

• start "thumb row" one row later (row 14 is just a normal purl-row) and knit it as follows:
  - sl1 k to last st before marker, p1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP - p12, w+t, k11, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p11 w+t, k10, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p7 w+t, k6, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p6 w+t, k5, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p4 w+t, k3, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p5 w+t, k4, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
  - k to end 

• start "shaping rows" one row later (i.e. the row before is just a normal purl row) and knit them as follows:R21 (RS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, k39, w+t, p20, w+t, k to end

How to apply the surface crochet to get a similar look to the mitts in the photo

1) When applying surface crochet try to use all of the available space – not just the rows you last knitted. This also helps to distribute the colours.

2) Furthermore try to avoid crocheting straight lines, go for loops and curves instead.

3) The first time you apply surface crochet don’t make the loops too close to one another, when you do it the next time, you can (should) go over them again and you’ll need space for it.

4) After grafting the application of surface crochet gets more difficult (it gets cumbersome to hold the yarn within the newly formed tube and reach it with your crochet hook from the outside), therefore it’s easier to apply it before grafting. However, to get a consistent look, some surface crochet should be applied crossing the grafted row. The photo on the right shows how some surface crochet crosses the "graft line" (where turquois meets pink).

5) Since the mitts are knitted in stockinette stitch, they tend to roll in at the side; it rolls in less if the surface crochet loops come close to the edges

Entangled

Fingerless gloves knitted sideways with lots of random surface crochet ... 

Pieces of Eight Mitts

It was a topological challenge for me to get these  mitts right.  These fancy fingerless gloves are knitted in one piece (no yarn cutting involved) beginning at the thumb. The "Eight”-Shape is achieved by increasing in the first part of a row, and decreasing in the second part.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Dansk / Danish: A danish version is available here on strikkeglad.dk or here as a PDF. With big thanks to MarianneHo (Ravelry name). Mange tak!

Dutch / Nederlands: Carolien (or mijikke on Ravelry) has provided a Dutch translation of the Pieces of Eight Mitts. Hartelijk bedankt! You can find it here on my blog.

Japanese / 日本語: A video tutorial in japanese has been provided by Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと). It can be found on YouTube here: Part 1, Part 2

Deutsch / German: Two german versions of these have been written by Renate Schattschneider:

• for fingering weight yarn (link to ravelry)
• for sports weight yarn (link to ravelry)

Eine deutsche Version von diesen Handschuhen wurde von Renate Schattschneider erstellt:

• für 4-fädiges Sockengarn (Ravelry-Link)
• für 6-fädiges Garn (Ravelry-Link)

A crochet version of this pattern - called Octavo Fingerless Gloves - is available here.

Techniques
 A knitter who wants to knit these mitts should know the following techniques:

• k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch  and p1, yo, p1 into the same stitch (i.e. double increases)
• Cable cast-on midwork: As shown in this video.
• Three-needle bind-off – as shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU
• Grafting: stockinette & garter stitch.
• How to knit a circle – since the effect is done with circle increases and decreases, it’s helpful if the general idea is known: In general a circle is knitted as follows:
  CO8 and join in round
  Round 1 and all odd numbered rounds: k
  Round 2: *k1 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 2nd stitch is doubled) (-> 16 sts)
  Round 4: * k2 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 3rd stitch is doubled)(-> 24 sts)
  Round 6: * k3 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 4th stitch is doubled) (-> 32 sts)
  Round 8: * k4 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 5th stitch is doubled) (-> 40 sts)
  … The formula should clear by now, i.e. that you increase by 8 stitches every other row. It also means that the distance between the "doubled" stitches increases by one in each of the increase-rounds. The same formula will be used when constructing the mitts - increasing around the thumbs and decreasing at the lower wrist part. If you do the increases always at the same spot a pattern (maybe even corners) will become visible; to achieve a more circular look I started the increases at a randomized stitch in each increase row.
• Picking-up a selvage stitch and joining it at right angles to your knitting (similar to entrelac knitting): at the end of the WS row wyif a stitch is picked up from the side. After turning the work, this stitch is knitted together with the first stitch of the RS row. A slightly different way of doing it is shown here - ending up with the same result, i.e. joining the last stitch with a "stitch" picked up from the edge. Please note, that in case of these mitts the join is not side-to-side, but side-to-cast-on-row
• Furthermore, you should be comfortable with the idea to “smooth out” certain differences in stitch counts. It's no big deal if there is one stitch too many - you can always fix it in the next row by decreasing one.
• Please note, that the mitts are mirror inverted – to achieve this, the one mitt is turned inside out at one point (at this point RS becomes WS and WS becomes RS). 

The picture on the right shows where the techniques are used - referring also to the work steps as described in the instructions.


Non-Standard Abbreviations

• kyok: k1, leave on needle, yo and knit again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
• pyop: p1, leave on needle, yo and purl again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
• w+t: Wrap and turn - a technique for knitting short rows. It is shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.

Materials

• 35 grams of fingering weight yarn (a list of the yarns I used is given at the end of this post)
• a set of 3mm dpns and a 3mm circular needle – I changed needles throughout the project
• 2 stitch markers
• tapestry needle (for kitchener stitch and to weave in ends)

Instructions

The picture on the left illustrates how your knitting should look after completing some of the steps.

NOTE: Please note that the sequences to be repeated don't always match the number of stitches left (e.g. it might say "* kfb k6 repeat from *", but there are only 4 stitches left) - that's OK. Just continue with the sequence and stop when you run out of stitches (in case of the example above, just knit the kfb and knit the 3 stitches to the end).

First Mitt

Thumb
Step 1: CO18
Step 2: Knit 8 rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Step 3: Knit one round as follows: “k1, p1, k1, pyop, k1, p1, repeat from *  (there should be 24 stitches on your needles)
Step 4: Knit 5 more rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Only the thumb (steps 1 to 4) is knitted in the round, after that everything else is knitted back and forth in rows (steps 5 and following).

Step 5:
The stitch you're at right now will be called “starting point” during this step.
Row 1 (RS): k20 place marker (“marker 1”) k4, cast on 4 stitches (with cable cast on), place marker (“marker 2”), cast on 70 stitches
Row 2 (WS): k back to starting point; pick up and knit one or two stitches from gap between the  last stitch and the recently cast-on stitches; wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the first of the recently cast-on stitches (just as you’d do for entrelac).
Now the circle increases and decreases are started: there will be increases up to marker 1, plain knitting between the two markers, and decrease from marker 2 to the end of row.
Row 3 (RS): k2tog (the stitch you just picked up and the first stitch of the row), *k2 kfb repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k8 repeat from ** to end
Row 4 and all other even rows until the next step (WS): k to starting point, wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the cable cast on
Row 5 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k1 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k4 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 7 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k3 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k7 ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 9 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 11 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k4 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 13 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k1 kfb k6 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 15 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k7 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 17 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k2 kfb k7 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 19 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k5 kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 21 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k8 kfb k3 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 23 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), k to marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end

Step 6:
There should now be 3 stitches between marker 2 and the end – adding up to 11 together with the stitches from between the markers – these 11 stitches will be on one needle for the three-needle bind-off. With another needle pick-up 11 stitches from the edge, do a three-needle bind-off over these 11 stitches. Make sure the bind-off is done from the WS. Remove the markers.
If the stitch number doesn’t match exactly, move one stitch from one needle to the other, or use one stitch from the other side of marker 1.
After the three needle bind off, knit back to starting point counting the stitches. There should be 93 stitches.


Step 7: First Set of short Short-Rows to widen the wrists
Place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (RS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.
(The stitches you did before the BO will not be knitted until they are grafted during part 10 - you can leave them on your needles (especially if you're using long circulars) or you can put them on a stitch holder. As you can see from the photos, I just left them where they were.)

Step 8: Second Set of Short Rows to widen the wrists
Still on the RS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9: Widen the mitt
You now knit several rows of garter stitch until the mitt is wide enough to fit your hands, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1 k
Row 2 (RS): sl1 k
Row 3 (WS): sl1 k
While you're knitting the first rows during step 9 count your stitches and compare it with the stitch number on the other side (i.e. the ones you left after step 7), if the numbers are not equal, increase of decrease to get an equal number of stitches (decreases are best done somewhere close to the marker).
Repeat rows  2 and 3 six more times (or until the mitt fits).

Step 10: Graft sides together
Cut yarn leaving a tail of about 1 meter. With tapestry needle graft sides together in garter stitch.


Second Mitt

The instructions for the second mitt are similar to the first one. Except that at one point, the mitt is turned inside out in order to mirror-invert the curves. Only the differences to the first mitt are listed here.

Knit Steps 1 through 5 as described for the Left Hand mitts except the steps listed below.


Step 3: Knit one round as follows: * k1, p1, kyok,  p1, k1, p1 repeat from *


Step 6:
Turn mitt inside out. Everything on your mitt that was RS is now WS (and vice versa). Make sure to do the three-needle bind off from the NEW WS.

Step 7:
The first short rows will be added at the opposite side, i.e.place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.

Step 8:
Here also the sides are mirror inverted (compared to the first mitt), i.e.

Still on the WS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9:
Knit the same number of garter stitch rows you knitted for the first mitt.

Step 10:
Graft in stockinette stitch.

Yarns

The "eight"-effect comes out best when using variegated yarn, here's the list of yarns I used for the mitts in the photos.

• The green-blue ones in the first and last picture are knitted with sock yarn from a German discounter (Aldi Süd). However, the yarn is listed at Ravelry - it's colorway 555.
• For the red-yellow-green ones, I used Schoeller+Stahl Fortissima Mexiko (colorway 252)
• The neon ones (in the step-by-step pictures) is Regia Fluormania Color - colorway 7184.