Frost in March Hat

This year winter doesn't seem to end - and at the beginning of March it got extremely cold - in my part of the world it was minus 10 degrees. Even now - a few weeks - later it's not much better. That's why I took to wearing a hat everytime I had to leave the house. In autumn I had knitted a few new hats (e.g. U-Turn Hat and Circle Beret), but they were shaped in a way that they fitted right over head and were to small if I wore my hair in a bun - which I usually do. So I wnated to knit a roomier hat, something a bit slouchy so that my "hairdo" would fit comfortably.
I decided on something with a short row construction, that is worked sideways and knitted flat. It starts with a provisional CO, is knitted in wedges and ends by grafting the edges together. The first 14 stitches are worked in garter stitch which provides a ribbing.
Their are two versions of the pattern - one to the exact size and gauge as given below, and one more general version so that you can adapt it to your head size.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• 60 to 70 grams of Worsted weight yarn - the sideways effect will be shown best when using self-striping yarn (I used Lana Grossa Cool Wool Big Color - here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page)
• 4 mm knitting needles
• scrap yarn and crochet hook for provisional CO
• tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits. 
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Grafting in stockinette stitch (also called Kitchener Stitch): a way to seamlessly join two rows of live stitches - as shown in this YouTube video by WEBS America's Yarn Store.

Gauge and Size

In stockinette stitch 21 stitches gave 10 cm in width and 32 rows 10 cm in height.

The finished hat measures 44 cm in circumference at the ribbing (unstretched). Stretched it fits around my head (about 54 cm in circumference). Just above the ribbing it measures about 55 cm in circumference. From the lower edge of the ribbing up to the crown it measures 23 cm.

Instructions

For the exact size as given above

Do a provisional CO of 50 sts

Row 0 (WS): k all

Row 1 (RS+WS): sl1, k47, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 2 (RS+WS): sl1, k45, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 3 (RS+WS): sl1, k43, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 4 (RS+WS): sl1, k41, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 5 (RS+WS): sl1, k39, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 6 (RS+WS): sl1, k37, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 7 (RS+WS): sl1, k35, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 8 (RS+WS): sl1, k33, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 9 (RS, WS, RS, WS): sl1, k31, w+t, p to last 14, w+t, k to last 14 sts, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 10 (RS+WS): sl1 k to end, TURN, sl1 k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 10 6 more times. Then knit rows 1 to 9 once more.

Put the stitches of the provisional CO on a knitting needle.

Hold the edges WS together and graft 14 sts in garter stitch and 36 sts in stockinette stitch.

Weave in ends.

For other sizes

Do a provisional CO of the number of sts you need for the desired height 

Row 0 (WS): k all

Row 1 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before end, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 2 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 3 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 4 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 5 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 6 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 7 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 8 (RS+WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 9 (RS, WS, RS, WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14, w+t, k to 2 sts before last wrap, w+t, p to last 14 sts, k14

Row 10 (RS+WS): sl1 k to end, TURN, sl1 p to last 14 sts,  k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 10 until the hat fit around your head - during the last repeat only knit up to and including row 9.

Put the stitches of the provisional CO on a knitting needle.

Hold the edges WS together and graft 14 sts in garter stitch and the rest in stockinette stitch.

Weave in ends.

Helgoland Mitts in Danish - Helgoland Vanter

Marianne Holmen from strikkeglad.dk has written a Danish translation of the Helgoland Mitts pattern. Thank you very much or rather "mange tak"!
Here is a link to the Danish version of this pattern on strikkeglad.dk.
The original (English) version can be found here.

A list of all translated versions of my patterns can be found in this blogpost.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Current WIPs

As usual, I have many works-in-progress (or WIPs for short) on my knitting needles. Most of them are my own ideas ... some of them will work and eventually been made into finished objects and patterns, some will be put in hibernation and maybe unearthed at a later date (usually slightly altered), and some will be frogged completely.
Here are the current ones that are most likely to be made into finished objects and maybe even patterns :)

1. Short row scarf with lace pattern inbetween - similar to the Mermaid's Garden Scarf, but not quite :) The yarn I used here is Schoppel Zauberball colorway Teezeremonie. Since the pattern is quite lacy it will look better after being blocked ...
2. The idea here, was to knit a hat completely without swatching, but with an interesting twist (or rather slant :) The finished shape was supposed to be similar  to a Pussy Hat. It took me five (yes, five!) attempts to get the closing vertical edge right(-ish) ... but it still is too roomy and slouchy to my liking. So at least the upper part will be frogged again and knitted differently - or maybe the complete hat ... (?) For this project I have used Lana Grossa Cool Wool Big Color.
3. Ever since I saw knitted pieces with square holes on the internet, I wanted to do something similar for myself - but of course without having to cut my yarn in the middle of a project. It took me quite a while to figure out how to knit them. Once you've grasped the idea this is great for mindless (TV, train etc.) knitting. When this piece is finished it will be a big wrap. The yarn I have used here is Wollmeise Lace.
4. After I had finished the Starburst Mitts in 2014, I thought it might be a good idea to do an opposite construction to them, i.e. to group the short rows around a point at your wrist or at the edge or your hand - instead of around the thumb. I gave up on the idea then, but at Christmas I tried them again. This time the shaping worked a bit better, but it still isn't quite right. But I guess I will finish these - if only just to see how they fit around my hands. It might just work once they are closed. Here I used some hand-dyed yarn from Frau Wo aus Po - leftovers of the yarn that I used for my Seitenstreifen Socks.

If you have any ideas for pattern names, please let me know. Choosing names is not my strong suit :)

Easter Eggs

Only three more weeks until Easter ... these cute little easter eggs are great to use up your self-striping fingering weight leftovers and maybe a funny project to try a three-dimensional piece of knitting.

A German version of this pattern is available here.
Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.



This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 5 grams of fingering weight yarn - I used leftovers from self-striping sock yarn
• 2.5mm dpns or circulars
• stuffing - I used (really) old yarn leftovers and waste fabric (cut into small pieces)
• a removable stitch marker to mark the end of your round
• a tapestry needle

Size
Your finished eggs will be a bit bigger than hen's eggs.

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Magic Ring CO: Basically, the magic ring technique (from crochet) is used to cast on knitted stitches. There are several videos on Youtube that show the technique - I used something similar to the technique shown in the first video, but since this is fiddly work, just use the one that suits you best.
• with knitting needles: http://youtu.be/_xZywv8wj9Y or http://youtu.be/eXgvTPSOVIw 
• or with a crochet hook: http://youtu.be/4Vkpqdea-6o 

Alternatively, you can always use your preferred CO and later sew the hole closed with the tail.

• [X]*Y, means, knit the sequence in brackets (X) Y times, e.g. [k2. kfb]*4 means knit the sequence "k2, kfb" four times.

Instructions
CO 8 sts and join in round - I used a Magic Ring CO (see link above). or just CO8 and join in round, if you do so, keep the tail outside of the egg, so that you can use it later to close the little hole. If you start with the Magic Ring CO, your piece will look like in illustration 1.
Round 1: k all - now your piece will look like in illustration 2.
Round 2: [kfb]*8
Round 3: k all
Round 4: [k1, kfb]*8
Round 5: k all
Round 6: k all
Round 7: [kfb, k2]*8
Round 8: k all
Round 9: k all
Round 10: [k2, kfb, k1]*8
Round 11: k all
Round 12: k all
Round 13: [k4, kfb]*8 - now your piece will look similar to illustration 3

Round 14: k all
Round 15: k all
Round 16: k all
Round 17: k all

Illustrations

Round 18: k all
Round 19: k all
Round 20: k all
Round 21: k all

Round 22: [k6, k2tog, k4]*4

Round 23: k all

Round 24: k all
Round 25: [k1, k2tog, k8]*4
Round 26: k all
Round 27: k all
Round 28: [k4, k2tog, k4]*4
Round 29: k all
Round 30: [k7, k2tog]*4
Round 31: k all
Round 32: [k1, k2tog, k1]*8

Round 33: k all

Round 34: k all
Start to put stuffing into your egg. Stuffing the egg will become more difficult the smaller the upper opening gets.  Now your piece will look similar to illustration 4.
Round 35: [k2tog, k1]*8

Round 36: k all

Round 37: k all
Round 38: [k2tog]*8
Round 39: [k2tog]*4
Cut yarn and thread it through a tapestry needle. Make sure your egg has enough stuffing.
Catch the remaining 4 sts with the needle and pull tight. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ostereier

Bis Ostern sind es nur noch drei Wochen - also Zeit, um sich mit Osterdekorationen zu beschäftigen. Diese niedlichen gestrickten Ostereier sind fabelhaft, um bunte Garnreste zu verwenden. Außerdem könnten sie ein interessantes erstes Projekt sein, etwas drei-dimensionales zu stricken.

An english version of this pattern is avaible here.
Eine englische Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.



Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.






Material

• circa 5 gramm 4-fädiges Sockengarn - ich habe Reste von buntem Sockengarn verwendet. 
• 2.5mm Stricknadeln - ich habe eine Rundstricknadel verwendet (mit der sog. Magic-Loop-Technik), aber ein Nadelspiel geht natürlich auf
• Füllmaterial zum Ausstopfen - ich habe (sehr) alte Garnreste verwendet und kleingeschnittene Stoffreste 
• ein Maschenmarkierer um den Anfang der Runde zu markieren
• eine Stopfnadel 

Größe
Die fertigen Eier sind etwas größer als normale Hühnereier.

Techniken und Abkürzungen 

• Maschenanschlag auf Fadenring: Dies isät eine Technik um eine geringe Anzahl von Maschen lückenlos anzuschlagen - ähnlich der Technik, mit der man ein Amigurumi beginnt. Ein YouTube Video auf Deutsch gibt es von nadelspiel - Stricken und Häkeln mit elizzza. Man kann dies auf unterschiedliche Art tun, es ist aber ein bisschen fricklig. Daher bitte die Art auswählen, die einem selbst am besten liegt. Hier noch ein paar weitere Videos dazu - allerdings in englisch.
• with knitting needles: http://youtu.be/_xZywv8wj9Y or http://youtu.be/eXgvTPSOVIw 
• or with a crochet hook: http://youtu.be/4Vkpqdea-6o 

Alternativ kann man natürlich ganz normal 8 Maschen anschlagen und zur Runde schließen. Dann muss man am Ende jedoch das kleine Loch zunähen. 

• [X]*Y, bedeutet: stricke die Anweisung in der Klammer (also X) Y-mal. also z.B. [2 re.M., reVH]*4 bedeutet also: stricke die Sequenz "2 re.M., reVH" vier mal.
• reVH - aus einer rechten Masche zwei herausstricken, also zuerst durchs vordere, dann durch das hintere Maschenglied stricken. Ein deutsches Video hierzu gibt es z.B. von Strick' Dich glücklich! (In englischen Strickanleitungen heißt dieser Stich kfb. Ich habe leider nicht herausgefunden, ob es eine "offiziellere" deutsche Bezeichnung dafür gibt. Falls jemand eine bessere Bezeichnung kennt, wäre ich über einen Hinweis dankbar.)
• 2 M. re. zus. - zwei Maschen rechts zusammenstricken.

Anleitung
8 Maschen anschlagen und zur Runde schließen - ich habe dafür einen Maschenanschlag auf einem Fadenring verwendet (siehe Link oben), man kann aber auch einfach normal 8 Maschen anschlagen. Falls man sich für letzteres entscheidet, sollte man aufpassen, das kurze Garnende außen hängen zu lassen, um am Ende damit die Öffnung zunähen zu können. Das Strickstück sieht ähnlich aus wie in Illustration 1.

Runde 1: alle M. re. - das Strickstück sieht jetzt ähnlich aus wie Illustration 2
Runde 2: [reVH]*8
Runde 3: alle M. re.
Runde 4: [1 re. M., reVH]*8
Runde 5: alle M. re.
Runde 6: alle M. re.
Runde 7: [reVH, 2 re. M.]*8
Runde 8: alle M. re.
Runde 9: alle M. re.
Runde  10: [2 re. M., reVH, 1 re. M.]*8
Runde 11: alle M. re.
Runde  12: alle M. re.
Runde 13: [4 re. M., reVH]*8 - das Strickstück sollte nun ähnlich aussehen wie in Illustration 3

Runde  14: alle M. re.
Runde  15: alle M. re.
Runde 16: alle M. re.
Runde 17: alle M. re.

Illustrationen

Runde 18: alle M. re.
Runde 19: alle M. re.
Runde  20: alle M. re.
Runde 21: alle M. re.

Runde 22: [6 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 4 re. M.]*4

Runde 23: alle M. re. 

Runde 24: alle M. re.
Runde 25: [1 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 8 re. M.]*4
Runde 26: alle M. re.
Runde 27: alle M. re.
Runde 28: [4 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 4 re. M.]*4
Runde 29: alle M. re.
Runde 30: [7 re. M., 2 M. re. zus.]*4
Runde 31: alle M. re.
Runde 32: [1 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 1 re. M.]*8

Runde 33: alle M. re. 

Runde 34: alle M. re.
Nun sollte man beginnen, das Füllmaterial einzufüllen, da die Öffnung in den nächsten Reihen nur noch kleiner wird und es schwieriger wird, das Ei auszustopfen. Das ganze sieht dann in etwa aus wie in Illustration 4.
Runde 35: [2 M. re. zus., 1 re. M.]*8

Runde 36: alle M. re. 

Runde 37: alle M. re.
Runde 38: [2 M. re. zus.]*8
Runde 39: [2 M. re. zus.]*4
Das Garn abschneiden und in eine Stopfnadel einfädeln. Jetzt ist der letzte Moment, um noch weiteres Füllmaterial einzufügen, so dass das Ei gut ausgestopft ist. Die letzten vier Maschen mit der Nadel durch das Garnende ziehen, zuziehen, das Garnende befestigen und vernähen.

Easter Bunny Potholder

The nice thing about the changing seasons and holidays is that you can always have new decorations :) - and since Easter is approaching, I decided to knit a potholder with an easter bunny theme. This started to get me a bit towards an Easter mood - plus it gave me a good excuse to start buying chocolate eggs ... only for the photos, of course ;)
Similar to other potholder / washcloth patterns that I have published here (e.g. I ♥ Intarsia Washcloth, Tannenbäumchen Potholder), it is a combination of short rows and intarsia, which leads to a piece that looks good from both sides.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





Materials

• a total of about 40 to 45 grams of DK weight cotton yarn - about 15 grams of C2 (bunny color) and 30 grams of C1 (background color)
• 3.5 mm needles - if you use yarn of a different weight, use a needle that is one size below the size that the yarn calls for
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

Techniques & Notation

• Intarsia: Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy. That way you don't have to carry long strands on the WS and the WS looks presentable. The picture below shows the RS and WS of the piece.

• Throughout the pattern, the following notation is used:  C1 (k4), C2 (k10, w+t, k10), C1 (k to end) means, knit 4 stitches in C1, change to C2 and knit 10 sts, do a wrap and turn, knit 10 stitches and then change back to C1 and k to end. I.e. color is indicated before the knitting instructions for that yarn and the knitting instructions for that yarn are given in brackets after the color. 
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
  Even though this potholder is knit in garter stitch, I picked up the wraps, i.e. two wraps that are on top of each other. Here's a YouTube video that shows how to pick up your wraps (also by Very Pink Knits).
• Note: in some rows the wrap has to be made just at the color change in the row below, e.g. Ridge B11 where you knit 11 sts in C1 and the 12 stitch that is to be wrapped was knitted in C2. In this case, it's advisable to change the color (as if to knit the next stitch in the new color), wrap and turn in the new color, and then to change back. This gives nicer color edges.
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provisional CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com. 
• Weaving in (ends) while knitting: as shown in this YouTube video by So, I make stuff. This technique is used here to carry yarn of another color to point further along in your row while avoiding a long float.
• Weaving in yarn while carrying it back: Draw a long loop of C2 (white in the illustration) to the point closer to the beginning of the rowwhere you want to knit it (picture 1). This gives you a really long float. Knit the first stitch (picture 2). Before knitting the second stitch, catch the float by put the left hand needle under the float (picutre 3) and then knit the stitch with your working yarn as usual. If you catch the float every second stitch, the WS will look as shown in picture 4. (This is a bit like catching floats in stranded knitting as shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter.)
  The last two techniques (this and weaving in (ends) while knitting) will are used to avoid a long float that runs parallel to your knitting - and to avoid cutting your yarn. 



Click to enlarge

Construction

This potholder is knitted in 5 parts. It starts with a provisional CO. Then each row is a stitch shorter than the last one, One part ends, when the row is only 1 stitch (plus 1 w+t) long - then the next part begins and each row is one stitch longer than the last one until all stitches are knitted and we've sucessfully knitted around a corner. Then the row length is getting shorter again for the next corner. 

After knitting around four corners and the two sides (CO and last row) are grafted in garter stitch.


Size
The pieces that I knitted measure about 20 cm by 20 cm.


Instructions
With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 20 sts

Part A
Setup row: C2 (k8), C1 (k12)
Ridge A1: C1 (sl1, k10), C2 (k8, w+t, k8), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A2: C1 (sl1, k3), C2 (k14 - over the first 7 sts weave C2 in while carrying it back, w+t, k14), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A3: C1 (sl1, k2), C2 (k14, w+t, k14), C1 (k to end)

Ridge A4: C1 (sl1, k3), C2 (k12, w+t, k12), C1 (k to end)

Ridge A5: C1 (sl1, k10 - over the last 7 sts 7 carry C2 with you and weave it in), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A6: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A7: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A8: C1 (sl1, k11, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A9: C1 (sl1, k10, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A10: C1 (sl1, k9, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A11: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A12: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A13: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A14: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A15: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A16: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A17: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A18: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A19: C1 (sl1, w+t, k to end)

Part B
Ridge B1: C1 (sl1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B2: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B3: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B4: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B5: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B6: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B7: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B8: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B9: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B10: C1 (sl1, k9, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B11: C1 (sl1, k10, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B12: C1 (sl1, k11, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B13: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B14: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B15: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k2, w+t, k2), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B16: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k3, w+t, k3), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B17: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B18: C1 (sl1, k13), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)

Ridge B19: C1 (sl1, k14), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)

Ridge B20: C1 (sl1, k14), C2 (k5, turn, sl1, k4), C1 (k to end)

Ridge B21: C1 (sl1, k13), C2 (k5, w+t, k5), C1 (k to end)

Ridge B22: C1 (sl1, k11), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B23: C1 (sl1, k10), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B24: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B25: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k5, w+t, k5), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B26: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B27: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k3, w+t, k3), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B28: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k2, w+t, k2), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B29: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B30: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B31: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B32: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B33: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B34: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B35: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B36: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B37: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B38: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B39: C1 (sl1, w+t, k to end)

Part C
Ridge C1: (sl1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C2: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C3: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C4: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C5: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C6: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C7: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C8: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C9: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C10: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C11: C1 (sl, k9), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C12: C1 (sl, k7), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C13: C1 (sl, k6), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C14: C1 (sl, k5), C2 (k8, w+t, k8), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C15: C1 (sl, k5), C2 (k9, w+t, k9), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C16: C1 (sl, k4), C2 (k11, w+t, k11), C1 (k to end)

Ridge C17: C1 (sl, k4), C2 (k12, w+t, k12), C1 (k to end)

Ridge C18: C1 (sl, k3), C2 (k14, w+t, k14), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C19: C1 (sl, k3), C2 (k15, w+t, k15), C1 (k to end)

Ridge C20: C1 (sl, k3), C2 (k16, turn, sl, k15), C1 (k to end)

Ridge C21 = Ridge C19
Ridge C22 = Ridge C18
Ridge C23 = Ridge C17
...
Ridge C39 = Ridge C1

Part D
Ridge D1 = Ridge B39
Ridge D2 = Ridge B38
Ridge D3 = Ridge B37
...
Ridge D39 = Ridge B1

Part E
Ridge E1 = Ridge A19
Ridge E2 = Ridge A18
Ridge E3 = Ridge A17
...
Ridge E19 = Ridge A1

Take out your scrap yarn of the provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a knitting needle. Cut your yarns but leave tails long enough for grafting.
Graft in garter stitch: 12sts in C1 and 8 sts in C2.

If there is still a hole in the middle, use the C2 end to sew it closed.
Weave in ends.

Chart
The chart below shows one half of the potholder. The numbers indicate the number of stitches per color of each ridge (including the slipped stitch at the beginning of each row). The brown number gives the stitches in C2 and the black number the stitches in C1.
The grey highlighted rows are added for readability only.

Chart - click to enlarge

Skein Hash Cowl

If you're anything like me, you will have lots of yarn leftovers in your stash - not enough of one type of yarn to make something new, but also too much (and too good) to throw it away. I had long thought about a way to mix up leftovers to make them into something whole, but it took me a while to design a nice little pattern for it.

So, here's an interesting way of stashbusting and using up some beautiful yarn leftovers. It's a cowl that is knitted flat - started with a provisional CO and joined in the round by grafting. It's knitted all in garter stitch - i.e. you do not have to purl. Basically, it's a chevron pattern on a bias.

The pattern is written for fingering weight yarn, but I have included a way to calculate the number of stitches for other yarn weights and as well.

As to the name: Actually Skein Hash is a cryptographic hash function. These functions are used to calculate digital signatures and have many other applications in information security. When I saw the name I thought that this was too good to be missed as the name for knitting pattern - it was actually one of the rare cases where I had a name before I had a pattern to suit it :)
And since hash means (according to Webster's Dictionary) "confuse, muddle" it fits perfectly, since this is exactly what this pattern does with the yarn from your leftover skeins.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 130 to 180 grams of yarn of the same weight (I used fingering weight yarn)
• knitting needles (straight or circular) that fits your yarn weight (I used 3.25 mm needles)
• a removable stitch marker to mark the right side of the piece
• scrap yarn and a crochet hook for the provisional CO
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Carrying yarn up:  When you're knitting chevrons on a bias you have to BO or CO at the beginning or end of a row. And since you're using three strands of yarn, you need to bring the yarn that you're not using (for the current row) with you. This can be done by twisting the unused yarn with the current yarn after every BO or CO stitch - similar to the technique of carrying yarn up on the side of your work - this technique is shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter.
• kyok: centered double increase: knit, yarn over, knit into one stitch (as shown in this YouTube video by So, I make stuff)
• sl1 k2tog psso: slip one stitch, knit the next two stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over (as shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter)

Since this cowl is made from leftovers, there is a high potential for many ends to weave in. Here are two techniques that may be helpful to avoid this:

• Weave in ends as you go as shown in this YouTube video by So, I make stuff.  
• Frankfurt knot: a way to connect yarn with a strong knot - as shown in this YouTube video by nadelspiel.

Gauge and Size
In garter stitch 5 stitches gave 2 cm in width and 8 rows (4 ridges) gave 2 cm in height.
The cowl that I knitted measures about 24 cm in width and 124 cm in circumference.

The lenght is adjusted easily, by knitting more or fewer rows.
If you want to change the width, knit a swatch in garter, calculate the number of stitches you'd need to cast on for the desired width, multiply this number by 2 (because of the chevron on a bias pattern) and then cast the number of stitches nearest to that that is a multiple of 10.

• Example Calculation 1: If your swatch 9 stitches give 5 cm in width - and you want your finished piece to measure 25 cm in width. 45 stitches would normally give 25 cm. Multiplied by 2 this gives 90 stitches to cast on with that yarn - and since 90 is divisible by 10 you don't need to add or subtract from that number.
• Example Calculation 2 (with a bigger yarn): Your swatch shows that 3 stitches give 2 cm in with - and you want a 22 cm wide cowl: 33 stitches would have to be cast on for a cowl in plain garter stitch (without the chevron pattern). Multiplied by 2 it'd give 66 stitches - the nearest multiple of 10 is 70, so you have to cast on 70 sts.

Using Your Leftovers
Go stash diving and find about 200 grams of yarn of the same weight - I used fingering weight yarn of the same part of the color spectrum (blue-ish), but I think color combinations would work as well. You always work with 3 skeins at a time, the one row is knitted with the skein 1, the next with skein 2, the next with skein 3, and then you start again with skein 1. Once one strand runs out of yarn, just connect the next one to it.
I wanted to rather consistent color distribution (or as consistent as possible). That's why I seperated some of the leftover skeins into two skeins and used them at different times. This will even increase the numbers of ends to weave in, but I prefered this over a color change that seemed to abrupt.


Instructions
You will always work with three colors. After each row, you change to the next color.

Provisionally CO 120 sts
Row 0 (C1, WS): k all
Row 1 (C2, RS): k2, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only 8 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso, k1
Row 2 (C3, WS): k all
Row 3 (C1, RS): k3, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only7 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso
Row 4 (C2, WS): BO5 (while weaving in C1), k to end
Row 5 (C3, RS): k4, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there is only one sts left, k1
Row 6 (C1, WS): k all, CO5 while weaving in C2
Row 7 (C2, RS): *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * to end
Row 8 (C3. WS): k all
Row 9 (C1, RS): k1, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only 9 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso, k2
Row 10 (C2, WS): k all
Row 11 (C3, RS): k2, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only 8 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso, k1
Row 12 (C1, WS): k all
Row 13 (C2, RS): k3, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only7 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso
Row 14 (C3, WS): BO5 (while weaving in C1), k to end

Row 15 (C1, RS): k4, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there is only one sts left, k1
Row 16 (C2, WS): k all, CO5 while weaving in C2
Row 17 (C3, RS): *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * to end
Row 18 (C1. WS): k all
Row 19 (C2, RS): k1, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only 9 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso, k2
Row 20 (C3, WS): k all
Row 21 (C1, RS): k2, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only 8 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso, k1
Row 22 (C2, WS): k all
Row 23 (C3, RS): k3, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only7 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso
Row 24 (C1, WS): BO5 (while weaving in C1), k to end
Row 25 (C2, RS): k4, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there is only one sts left, k1
Row 26 (C3, WS): k all, CO5 while weaving in C2
Row 27 (C1, RS): *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * to end
Row 28 (C2. WS): k all
Row 29 (C3, RS): k1, *kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso k3 repeat from * until there are only 9 sts left, kyok, k3, sl1 k2tog psso, k2
Row 30 (C1, WS): k all

Repeat until your cowl has reached the desired lenght - make sure to end with a row 8, 18 or 28. Leave a tail for grafting. Place the stitches from the provisional CO on the second needle, hold the ends together (RS out) as shown in the picture and graft in garter stitch ... or if you want to be very precise about things follow the instructions below ...

Actually, the row you're grafting is an RS row (a row 9, 19 or 29 to be precise) which means that there should be increases and decreases in order to keep the chevron pattern ... I solved this by sometimes treating 3 stitches as 1 stitch. To be more precise, everytime, that there'd be a scheduled double decrease in row 9 (or 19 or 29), I inserted the needle not into one stitch but into three at a time on the front needle. and every time that there'd be a scheduled double increase in row 9 (meaning a double decrease on the corresponding provisional CO row), I inserted the needle into three stitches at a time on the back needle.

Even though, I think I didn't count correctly a few times, the finished grafting row looks OK.

Weave in all the ends if necessary and block.