The result is an elegant pair of fingerless gloves in two colors with a delicate lace pattern on the back of your hand that stands out because it is knitted in a contrasting color. The palm side is knitted in plain stockinette stitch using the main color.
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Materials
- about 35 to 45 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors - I used about 10 grams of grey yarn (CC) and 30 grams of blue yarn (MC), I'd advise to use a solid color as CC to make the lace pattern stand out
- 2.5mm circular knitting needles - I used the magic loop method, but you can use dpns, too - I also used dpns to knit the thumb
- a stitch holder to hold your thumb stitches - e.g. scrap yarn
- a tapestry needle to weave in ends
Techniques
- Intarsia in the round with yarn-overs before turning: as shown in this YouTube video by Julia farwell-clay. Basically you knit back and forth even though your stitches are arranged in the round - and you have to consider rounds in pairs - one RS row and one WS row. You start with your main color (MC) on the RS, then - as in normal intarsia you change (by twisting the yarns) - to contrast color (CC) and knit your CC part, After finishing this you turn your work, make a yarn-over and do the WS with CC, when you get to the MC part you change back as in normal (flat) intarsia to MC.
Now with MC you work your way on the WS not only to the start of the round, but further to the point where you ended the CC part. Here you p2tog the last MC stitch with the yarn over in CC. Then you turn - again with a yarn over - and do the RS part to the beginning of the round. That's the two round finished.
When - during the next pair of rounds - you reach the new yarn over on the RS, you have to do an ssk of the last stitch in CC with the yarn over in MC.
In this pattern the following notation will be used: "MC [k7]; CC [k23]" means knit 7 sts in MC, change to CC and knit 23 sts in CC, i.e. the color is indicated before the knitting instructions - the instructions are in square brackets and a semicolon indicates a change of color. - Magic Loop Method: as shown in this YouTube video by KnitPicks.
- Backwards Loop CO: as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
Gauge and Measurements
One finished mitt measures 19 cm in height and 17 cm in diameter. If you want to adjust the width of the mitts, you can change the number of stitches in MC. If you want them longer, adjust the number of pattern repeats accordingly.
In stockinette stitch 16 sts gave 5 cm in width, and 22 rows 5cm in height.
Construction
Even though this piece is knitted in the round, there is a change of direction after every row. That's because it is knitted in intarsia where one round is knitted from the outside of the sock and the next from the inside. This means that at one point in the round you change the color just as in normal (flat knitted) intarsia knit, i.e. where you twist your two strands of yarn (called color changing point or CCP in the pattern) and at another point you attach the colors while you're turning by knitting together the last stitch of the current round with a yarn-over you did in the round below (called turning point or TP in the pattern).
Even though this piece is knitted in the round, there is a change of direction after every row. That's because it is knitted in intarsia where one round is knitted from the outside of the sock and the next from the inside. This means that at one point in the round you change the color just as in normal (flat knitted) intarsia knit, i.e. where you twist your two strands of yarn (called color changing point or CCP in the pattern) and at another point you attach the colors while you're turning by knitting together the last stitch of the current round with a yarn-over you did in the round below (called turning point or TP in the pattern).
On the right you can find a schematic of the stitch distribution when knitting with the Magic Loop technique.
The color changing point never moves, i.e. every stitch is knitted in the same color as the stitch in the row below.
Lace Pattern and Special Stitches
Below you can find a chart of the lace pattern - I used the Bellflowers patten that I found on knittingfool.com.
For the purpose of knitting these fingerless gloves, the last stitch of each WS row (even numbered row) corresponds to the turning point will connect the lace piece to the part knitted in MC, i.e. you do a k2tog of the last stitch with the yarn over you did at the beginning of the round.
The color changing point never moves, i.e. every stitch is knitted in the same color as the stitch in the row below.
Lace Pattern and Special Stitches
Below you can find a chart of the lace pattern - I used the Bellflowers patten that I found on knittingfool.com.
For the purpose of knitting these fingerless gloves, the last stitch of each WS row (even numbered row) corresponds to the turning point will connect the lace piece to the part knitted in MC, i.e. you do a k2tog of the last stitch with the yarn over you did at the beginning of the round.
 |
| Lace Chart (click to enlarge) |
- yo: yarn over
- k2tog: knit 2 together, right leaning decrease
- ssk: slip slip knit, left leaning decrease
- k3tog: knit 3 together, right leaning double decrease
- sl1 k2tog psso: left leaning double decrease, alternatively you can do an sssk (slip slip slip knit)
- k4tog: knit 4 together
- sl1 k3tog psso: slip
- no stitch: When there are more decreases than increases in one row, the stitch number decreases. The no stitch symbol is used as a place holder to ensure that the chart is still aligned.
I'd strongly advise to count the stitches on your needles just after you've finished the lace piece (in order to make sure that you've just the right number you need for the next round). I had to tink back quite a few times ...
Instructions
In CC CO19 and in MC CO33 (see illustration 1)
Turn work - do not join in round yet.
Row 0: MC [ * p2, k2 repeat from * until 1 st bef CCP, p1 ]; CC [ p1, k2, * p2, k2 repeat from * to end] - when crossing the two yarns at CCP, cross in front
From the beginning of the row, divide the stitches into the following three parts: of 22, 26 and 4 sts (see illustration 2). Join in round
 |
| Illustrations (click to enlarge) |
Ribbing
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from CCP, p2, k1]; MC [k1, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, ssk] - with the ssk, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning - your piece should look similar to illustration 3.
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 1 st from CCP, p1]; CC [p1, k2 * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, k2tog] - with the k2tog, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 once more.
Now start the lace pattern:
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 2: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 3: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 4: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 5: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k4tog, yo k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 6: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 7: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 8: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 9: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, ssk, ssk, yo ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 10: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 11: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k2tog psso, sl1, k2tog, psso, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 12: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 13: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, sl1 k3tog psso, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 14: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 15: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 15: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 16: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Repeat rounds 1 to 16 once more. Then repeat rounds 1 to 6.
Thumb Gusset
For the thumb gusset, the "normal" rounds are slightly altered - i.e. there will be markers put in place and there will be increases along these markers every 4th row. these changes will be printed in boldface. The rest of the round stays the same - that's why the row numbers are kept (but with an added t for "thumb").
To knit the thumb gusset on different sides of the lace pattern, there will be two versions of round 7 - one for the right hand mitt, and one for the left hand mitt.
Round 7t - first mitt: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k5 pm k2 pm, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 7t - second mitt: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 7 bef TP pm k2 pm, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 8t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 7t - second mitt: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 7 bef TP pm k2 pm, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 8t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 9t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, ssk, ssk, yo ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 10t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 11t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k2tog psso, sl1 k2tog psso, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 12t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 13t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, sl1 k3tog psso, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 14t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 15t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 15t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 16t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 1t (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 2t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]
Round 3t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 4t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 5t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k4tog, yo k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 6t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 7t: (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Repeat rounds 8t to 16t once, then rounds 1t to 7t once, then rounds 8t to 16t once more, and then rounds 1t to 2t. Now there have been 7 increase rows, i.e. you have increased by 14 sts and there are 16 sts between the stitch markers.
Round 3tt: CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, put the 16 sts between the two stitch markers on a stitch holder, with backwards loop cast on, CO 2, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Now continue in lace pattern rounds 4 to 16.
Upper ribbing
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from CCP, p2, k1]; MC [k1, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, ssk] - with the ssk, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 1 sts from CCP, p1]; CC [p1, k2, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, k2tog] - with the k2tog, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 once more.
Bind of in pattern in 5th round.
Thumb
Put the 16 sts from the stitch holder back on your knitting needle(s). I distributed them evenly on two dpns. There is an upper edge just below the backwards loop CO with a gap on each side. In order to close this gap, you pick up some stitches from these gaps which will be decreased over the next few rounds.
Round 1: pick up and knit a total of 8 stitches from gaps and this edge, k15, ssk (i.e. you join the last stitch of this round with the first of the next). -> 23 sts
Round 2: k6, k2tog, k15 -> 22 sts
Round 3: k all
Round 4: k5, k2tog, k14, ssk (i.e. you join the last stitch of this round with the first of the next) -> 20 sts left
Round 5: k19 (i.e. k to end)
Round 6: k all
Repeat round 6 twice more.
Thumb Ribbing
Round 1: * k2, p2 repeat from * to end
Repeat round 1 twice more.
Bind off in pattern.
Make two.
Weave in ends - all 12 of them ... (at least 6 per mitt)
Very cute hand warmer
AntwortenLöschenSo elegant. Thank you for posting the pattern.
AntwortenLöschenThank you ♥ ♥
Löschen