Ramble Mitts

After finishing the Inbetween Mitts I liked the long ribbing so much, that I wanted to have another pair of "long" fingerless gloves. These can be worn with the upper ribbing folded down to allow more freedom of movement for the hands or folded up to keep a bit warmer.

These mitts are quite easy to knit - they are knit stitch only plus some basic increases and decreases; and they are knitted all in one piece - therefore, there are only two ends to weave in per mitt.

The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to different hand sizes and yarn weights. Since they are knitted in different directions, they are great to show off selfstriping yarn.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 40 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm needles (I used a set of dpns for parts 1, 3, 4 and 5, and a circular needle for part 2) and another needle for the three-needle BOs and the provisional COs
• two stitch markers
• scrap yarn for the provisional CO(s)
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• German Short Rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
• Three-Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Picking up stitches from the side and knitting them: https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q or https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw 
• Grafting in garter stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Picking up stitches from a gap or ditch: After both three needle bind-offs there is one left over stitch which tends to have a distance to the stitches next to it. To avoid holes, I usually pick up one stitch from the gap and decrease over the new stitch in the following row (see also this YouTube video where it is shown on the example of a thumb gusset). In my experience (or the way I knit :) it's even better to pick up two stitches and knit decreases over them in the following two rows.

Gauge and Measurements
In garter stitch 12 sts gave 5 cm in width, and 13 garter stitch ridges gave 5 cm in height. The mitt in the pictures measures 26 cm in length. 20 cm in circumference at the lower edge of the cuff. The thumb circumference of is about 7 cm.
The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to different hand sizes. However, I have given the row counts that I used as an example - these numbers are given in purple.

General Construction
Part 1 - the cuff - is knitted flat and in garter stitch with a few short rows for shaping, i.e. to ensure that the lower end is wider than the upper end. It ends with a three-needle bind off. Part 2 - the palm - starts with picking up stitches from the upper edge of the cuff and is knitted in stockinette stitch in the round. Part 3 is again garter stitch and knitted flat, like part 1, it ends with a three-needle BO. Part 4 - the lower part of the thumb - is knitted in the round. Finally, part 5 - the stockinette "ribbing" of the thumb is knitted flat again. It ends with grafting in garter stitch.


Instructions

Part 1 (Cuff - knitted flat)
Provisionally CO 22 sts
Setup row (RS): k all
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to end
Row 2 (RS): k all
Repeat rows 1 and 2 four more times
Row 11 (WS, RS): k 15, t+p, k to end
Repeat rows 1 to 11 until the cuff fits around your wrist

For the mitts in the picture I knitted a total of 8 repeats of rows 1 to 11 plus rows 1 and 2 twice more.

Move stitches from provisional CO to a third needle, hold together with current stitches and do a 3 needle BO until there is only one stitch left.
Before doing the three-needle BO your piece should now look similar to photo 1 of the illustrations.

Part 2 (Palm - knitted in the round)
Turn the mitt right sides out (i.e. so that the seam from the three-needle BO is on the inside). Starting from the stitch that is still on your needle pick up and knit stitches from the upper edge of the cuff. If necessary (i.e. if the gap between the leftover stitch and the slip stitches at the upper edge are too wide) pick up a stitch from the gap. Join in round.

For the mitt in the pictures, I picked up 43 sts.

Knit 10 rounds of stockinette stitch.
Round 11: k1 pm k1 k to end
Round 12: k to m, slip marker, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, slip marker, k to end
Rounds 13 - 15: k all
Repeat rounds 12 to 15 four more times - now there should be 11 stitches between the two markers. These 11 sts are the thumb stitches and will be used again in part 4.

Part 3 (Upper ribbing - knitted flat)
Knit to second marker, remove this marker, and provisionally CO 22 sts on another needle.
Continue knitting the stitches from the provisional CO - your piece should look like in photo 2.
Turn work
Row 1: k21, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch from the provisional CO with the next stitch of the stockinette part), turn
Row 2: sl1, k to end
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have "used up" all stitches of the stockinette part, i.e. until you have reached the marker that marked the beginning of the thumb stitches.
Try the mitt on to check whether the upper ribbing fits around your fingers. If it is not wide enough, knit a few repeats of the following rows.
Row 1: k22
Row 2: sl1, k21

I knitted a total of 6 more rows (i.e. 3 repeats of these rows).

Move stitches from provisional CO to a third needle, Fold the upper ribbing right sides together and do a three-needle BO of the 22 sts of the upper ribbing. Before you start the three-needle BO your piece should look similar to photo 4.

Part 4 (Thumb - knitted in the round)
Turn the upper ribbing back right sides out. Now you can 1 sts left from the three-needle BO and 11 sts of the thumb gusset.
Round 1: Pick up stitches from the slip stitch edge of the upper ribbing. pick up one to three stitches from the first gap, knit the 11 stitches from the thumb gusset, and pick up one to three stitches from the gap.

At the end of the round 1 I had 20 stitches on my needles: 1 leftover from the 3NBO, 3 from the slip stitches of the upper ribbing, 2 from the first gap, 11 from the thumb gusset (of part 2), and 3 from the second gap (1+3+2+11+3=20).

Over the next four rounds, knit stockinette stitch while decreasing over the stitches you picked up over the gap - until there are 16 stitches left.

For the mitts in the photos the next four rounds were as follows:
Round 2: k3, k2tog, k12, ssk, k1
Round 3: k all
Round 4: k all
Round 5: k2, k2tog, k12, ssk

Part 5 (Thumb ribbing - knitted flat)
The last part is rather fiddly. You can avoid this by knitting a few rounds of k1p1-ribbing and then binding off. However, I wanted a garter stitch ribbing - so I did it the same way as I did the upper ribbing of the palm part (i.e. like part 3).

With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 8 stitches on a new needle. Hold this needle close to the thumb stitches of your glove and knit these 8 new stitches.
Row1: k7, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch from the provisional CO with the next stitch of the stockinette part), turn
Row 2: sl1, k to end

Repeat until all the original thumb stitches have been used.

Move the stitches from the provisional CO to a new needle and graft both sides in garter stitch (see photo 6). 

Make two.
Weave in ends.

This post was featured at the New Tuesday PINspiration Link Party {28}. Thank you!

Bat Mitts

These were designed and knitted for a friend of my Mum's who had seen her black fingerless gloves and asked whether she could have a pair of black ones herself.

As usual, I thought it would be boring to knit the same ones again and wanted to do something different. Furthermore I had long thought about doing something on the lines of the Circle Mitts but with a lacy pattern. However, it wasn't quite as easy as I had hoped. It took me about four attempts of knitting and frogging to get this right ... but I quite like the end result. I even knitted a second pair in a lighter color a) to keep to for myself and b) to be able to get better pictures, because black yarn is difficult to capture on photo :)

In the end the lace pattern reminded me of the fingers of bat's wings - hence the name.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 35 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm knitting needles (I used 80 cm circulars with the Magic Loop method)
• 8 stitch markers
• a third needle for three-needle BO
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Three-Needle Bind-Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Short Rows in the Round (and t+ky) I learned short rows in the round with this helpful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCgycxLce94; however, I ended up doing the pick-ups differently.
  - "Wrapping" of the StitchesBasically, when you're on the RS, you do wrap the working yarn around the next stitch (from front to back) and then turn your work, i.e. the "normal" wrap and turn (w+t).
  When you are on the WS you slip the last stitch, turn your work with the yarn in front, wrap the yarn around the RIGHT needle and knit the slipped stitch. That creates a sort of double-stitch - one half of it has to be knitted together with the stitch in front when you're picking up the stitches. In the pattern, throughout the pattern I will call this stitch, t+ky (short for "turn and knit w/yarn-over").
  - Picking-upWhen encountering a w+t, I turned the wrapped stitch on the needle, picked up the wrap from the front and knitted the stitch and the wrap together through the back of the loop.
  When reaching the stitch BEFORE the “double-stitch”, I turned this stitch and knitted it together with the yo through the back of the loop. 
• Picking up stitches from a gap or ditch: After the three needle bind-off there is one left over stitch which tends to have a distance to the stitches next to it. To avoid holes, I usually pick up one stitch from the gap and decrease over the new stitch in the following row (see also this YouTube video where it is shown on the example of a thumb gusset). In my experience (or the way I knit :) it's even better to pick up two stitches and knit decreases over them in the following two rows.
• k1tbl: knit one through the back loop: https://youtu.be/vWuDsCsk9MI (YouTube video by crazyknittinglady)
• p1tbl: purl one through the back loop: https://youtu.be/gOHAqYFjvUM (YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter)
• mk1p: make one purl stitch; https://youtu.be/7WLQ9qXa88k (YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter - you can use one the first two method shown there)

Gauge and Measurements
In stockinette stitch 6 stitches gave 2cm in width and 7 rows gave 2cm in height. The finished mitts measures and 18cm in diameter a the widest point and about 18cm in length.

General Construction

These mitts are knitted in four parts. Part 1 - the thumb - is knitted in the round. Part 2 - the first part of the palm - is also knitted in the round, at its end there is a small ribbing knitted on top to make sure that the upper BO doesn't curl in. Part 3 is knitted flat and ends with a three-needle BO. Part 4 - the cuff - starts with a few short rows to even out the height differences. It is knitted in the round and ends with a few rounds of ribbing.
The second mitt will have different instructions to make it look mirror inverted to the first one.


Instructions

First Mitt

Part 1: Thumb
Knitted in the round
Loosely CO 16 sts and join in round - place marker at the end of round
Rounds 1-7: * k1tbl, p1, repeat from * to end
Round 8: * k1tbl, p1, mk1p, k1tbl, p1, repeat from * to end
Rounds 9-11: * k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1 repeat from * to end
Round 12: * k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1, mk1p, repeat from * to end
Round 13-14: *ktbl1, p2, repeat from * to end

Illustrations

Part 2
Knitted in the round
Round 1: * k1tbl, yo, k2, place marker, repeat from * to end
Round 2: * k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 3: * k1tbl, yo, k to m, sllip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 4: * k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Repeat rounds 3 and 4  five more times
Round 15: k1tbl, yo, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, yo, k to m, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 16: k1tbl, p1, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 17: k1tbl, yo, p1, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, yo, k to m, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 18: k1tbl, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 19: BO14 sts in pattern (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), k to marker, slip marker; and continue round like round 3 (i.e.  * k1tbl, yo, k to m, sllip marker, repeat from * to end) - your piece should now look similar to photo 1 of the illustrations.

Part 3
Knitted flat
Row 1 (WS): p2tog, p6, t+ky, k to end, turn;
    * p to 1 bef m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 2 (RS): k2tog, k6, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to m, slip marker, k1tbl, yo, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 3 (WS): p7, t+ky, k to end, turn:
    * p to 1 bef m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 4 (RS): k8, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to m, slip marker, k1tbl, yo, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 5 = Row 3
Row 6 = Row 4
Row 7 (WS): * p to 1 bef m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end

Fold piece in half, right sides together. Your piece should now look as in photo 2.
Do a three-needle BO of 31 stitches (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), secure the last stitch and turn the piece back right sides out. Your piece should now look similar to photo 3.

Part 4
Knitted in the round - with some short rows around the last stitch of the three-needle BO
Round 1:  pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap; * k to m, slip marker,  k1tbl, yo, repeat from * once more, k to end, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap
Round 2: k1, ktog, k2, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p2, t+ky;
     k4, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 3: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     k11, w+t;
     p13, t+ky;
     k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, yo, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 4: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
    p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
    k11, w+t;
    p13, t+ky;
    k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 5: k2tog, k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, yo, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 6: k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end

Knit 7 rounds of p1, k1tbl-ribbing
Bind off loosely in pattern.

Second Mitt
To make the mitts mirror-inverted there are two differences between the first and second mitt:

• placement of the increases: for the first mitt the k1tbl-yo occurs just after the stitch marker - for the second mitt a yo-k1bl occurs just before the stitch marker
• for the second mitt the bind-off at the end of part 2 starts 2 sts before the end of the last row (instead of just at the beginning of the last row); that way the bind off "covers" two yo's

Here's it spelled out:

Part 1: Thumb
Knitted in the round
Loosely CO 16 sts and join in round - place marker at the end of round
Rounds 1-7: * p1, k1tbl repeat from * to end
Round 8: * mk1p, p1, k1tbl repeat from * to end
Rounds 9-11: * p2, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl  repeat from * to end
Round 12: * p2, k1tbl, mk1p, p1, k1tbl repeat from * to end
Round 13-14: *p2, ktbl1 repeat from * to end

Part 2
Knitted in the round
Round 1: * k2, yo, k1tbl, place marker, repeat from * to end
Round 2: * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 3: * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 4: * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Repeat rounds 3 and 4  five more times
Round 15: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, yo k1tbl. slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker,k1tbl, repeat from + to end
Round 16: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 17: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, yo k1tbl. slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker,k1tbl, repeat from + to end
Round 18: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from + to 2 sts before end, BO2
Round 19: BO12 sts in pattern (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), k to marker, slip marker; and continue round like round 3 (i.e.* k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end)

Part 3
Knitted flat
Row 1 (WS): p2tog, p6, t+ky, k to end, turn;
    * p to m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 2 (RS): k2tog, k6, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 3 (WS): p7, t+ky, k to end, turn:
    * p to m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 4 (RS): k8, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 5 = Row 3
Row 6 = Row 4
Row 7 (WS): * p to m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end

Fold piece in half, right sides together. Your piece should now look as in photo 2.
Do a three-needle BO of 31 stitches (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), secure the last stitch and turn the piece back right sides out. Your piece should now look similar to photo 3.

Part 4
Knitted in the round - with some short rows around the last stitch of the three-needle BO
Round 1:  pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap; * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, yo, slip marker, repeat from * once more, k to end, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap
Round 2: k1, ktog, k2, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p2, t+ky;
     k4, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 3: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     k11, w+t;
     p13, t+ky;
     * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 4: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
    p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
    k11, w+t;
    p13, t+ky;
    * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 5: k2tog, * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 6: * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl,  slip marker, repeat once more from *, k to end

Knit 7 rounds of p1, k1tbl-ribbing
Bind off loosely in pattern.

This blogpost was featured at Oombawka Design's Link and Share Wednesday Party 181 and at the Linky Ladies Party #93. Thank you!

Inbetween Mitts

To keep your hands warm why not knit yourself a pair of these colorful fingerless gloves. These mitts are perfect for the time between two seasons: in autumn or spring you can fold them down to have more freedom of fingers and in winter the upper ribbing covers most of your fingers and keeps them warm. That's why I called them inbetween mitts.

I also knitted them while I was living in a bit of an "inbetween" state. I was set to move back to my home country, but I had to fulfil a contract and therefore to stay on for two more months.

As many of my patterns these fingerless gloves have an unusal construction. They are knitted in one piece, partly knitted flat and partly knitted in the round. They are great to show off you colorful and variegated sock yarn.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

German / Deutsch: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung wurde von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog erstellt. Vielen lieben Dank. Details dazu in diesem Blogpost.

Danish / Dansk: A danish translation of this pattern was written by Marianne Holmen of strikkeglad.dk. Mange Tak! It is available here.

The pattern is written in a way that you can adapt it to most hand sizes. As an example, I have given the counts that I have used. These examples are written in purple.

Materials

• about 40 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm needles (I used a set of dpns for parts 1, 4 and 5, and a circular needle for parts 2 and 3) and a third needle for the three-needle BO
• scrap yarn for the provisional CO(s)
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Three-Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Picking up stitches from the side and knitting them (pick up and knit): https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Short Rows in the Round (and t+ky) I learned short rows in the round with this helpful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCgycxLce94; however, I ended up doing the pick-ups differently.
  - "Wrapping" of the Stitches
  Basically, when you're on the RS, you do wrap the working yarn around the next stitch (from front to back) and then turn your work, i.e. the "normal" wrap and turn (w+t).
  When you are on the WS you slip the last stitch, turn your work with the yarn in front, wrap the yarn around the RIGHT needle and knit the slipped stitch. That creates a sort of double-stitch - one half of it has to be knitted together with the stitch in front when you're picking up the stitches. In the pattern, throughout the pattern I will call this stitch, t+ky (short for "turn and knit w/yarn-over").
  - Picking-up
  When encountering a w+t, I turned the wrapped stitch on the needle, picked up the wrap from the front and knitted the stitch and the wrap together through the back of the loop.
  When reaching the stitch BEFORE the “double-stitch”, I turned this stitch and knitted it together with the yo through the back of the loop. 
• Grafting in garter stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Knitted Cast-On: http://youtu.be/-nJKC2xT0Q4   
• Picking up stitches from a gap or ditch: After both three needle bind-offs there is one left over stitch which tends to have a distance to the stitches next to it. To avoid holes, I usually pick up one stitch from the gap and decrease over the new stitch in the following row (see also this YouTube video where it is shown on the example of a thumb gusset). In my experience (or the way I knit :) it's even better to pick up two stitches and knit decreases over them in the following two rows.

Gauge, Size and Possible Adjustments

The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to most hand sizes. However, in order to make the thumb fit, the gauge should roughly be as follows:

12 garter stitch ridges (i.e. 24 rows) gave 5 cm in height, and 13 stitches in garter stitch 5 cm in width. If your gauge is way off, you'd need to adjust the number of stitches for the thumb.

The finished piece (as knitted by me) measures 25 cm in length, and about 20 cm in circumference at the widest point. The lower ribbing (cuff) measures 9 cm, and the upper edge about 7.5 cm.

If you want to have the upper and lower ribbing longer or shorter. you can do this by adjusting the number of stitches you cast on in the beginning of part 1 and part 3.

General Construction

Each glove is knitted in five parts - see picture on the right.
Part 1 – the cuff – is knitted flat, in garter stitch only, with a few short rows for shaping. Part 2 – the lower triangle of the part that covers the palm is knitted in the round, also with short rows to achieve the triangular shape.  Part 3 – the upper ribbing and the rest of the part covering the palm – is knitted flat. Part 4 – the lower part of the thumb – is knitted in the round; and finally part 5 – the thumb ribbing – is knitted flat again.
The glove is knitted in one piece, i.e. you do not have to cut the yarn while knitting it and there are only two ends to weave in in the end.

Instructions 

Part 1: Cuff

pCO 25 and knit first row with working yarn

Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to end

Row 2 (RS): k all

Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to end

Repeat row 2 and 3 three more times

Row 10 (RS, WS): k14, w+t, k to end

Now repeat the following sequence until the cuff fits around your wrist:

Knit rows 2 and 3 five times, then knit row 10 once. Make sure to end on a WS row. (After a few rows, your piece should look similar to picture 1.) 

I continued this until there were 42 ridges at the narrower edge - then the cuff fitted around my wrist.

Move stitches from provisional CO to a third needle, hold togehter with current stitches and do a 3 needle BO until there is only one stitch left.

Part 2: Palm, lower part

Turn the mitt right sides out (i.e. so that the seam from the three-needle BO is on the inside). Starting from the stitch that is still on your needle pick up and knit stitches from the upper edge of the cuff. Join in round. Your piece should now look similar to the one in picture 2.

I picked up 42 sts from the edge and 2 sts around the stitch that was left over from three-needle BO, so in total I had 45 sts.

Now the mitt is worked in the round, but with a some short rows (worked back and forth) for shaping. The first stitch of your round is the stitch that is left over from your three-needle BO.

Count your stitches and - while knitting round 1 -  place one stitch marker at the beginning of the round. (end-of-round-marker, or EM for short), place another marker after half the number of your stitches (half-of-round-marker, or HM for short).

Since I had an uneven number of stitches (45 sts), I placed the marker between the 22nd and 23rd stitch and pretended I had an even number of stitches. 

Round 1: k all

Round 2: k to 3 sts before HM, mk1, k6, mk1, k to 2 before EM, w+t

   p to 2 before EM, t+ky, 

   k to end

Round 3: k all

Round 4: k to 6 sts before HM, mk1, k12, mk1, k to 4 before EM, w+t

   p to 4 before EM, t+ky

   k to 6 before EM, w+t

   p to 6 before EM, t+ky, 

   k to end

Round 5: k all

Round 6: k to 3 sts before HM, mk1, k6, mk1, k to 6 before EM, w+t

   p to 6 before EM, t+ky,

   k to 8 before EM, w+t

   p to 8 before EM, t+ky,

   k to end

Round 7: k all

Round 8: k to 6 sts before HM, mk1, k12, mk1, k to 10 before EM, w+t

  p to 10 before EM, t+ky,

  k to 12 before EM, w+t,

  p to 12 before EM, t+ky,

  k to 14 before EM, w+t,

  p to 14 before EM, t+ky,

  k to end

Round 9: k all

Round 10: k to 2 before the last w+t, w+t,

  p to 2 before last t+ky, t+ky,

  k to 2 before last w+t, w+t

  p to 2 before last t+ky, t+ky

  k to end

Repeat rounds 9 and 10 until there are only 6 or less stitches between the turns, i.e. until the shortest short row consists only of 6 stitches or fewer.

Since I had a total of 53 stitches in the round (I started with 45 and increase 4 x 2 stitches), I had to repeat both rows once more to have 7 stitches left between the last 2 turns. 

Part 3: Palm, upper part

From now on the gloves is knitted in rows, either from the outside or inside of the glove.

Row 1: (RS) k to HM, CO20 with knitted cast on (these 20 new stitches will be the upper ribbing and the end of the upper ribbing will be the new "end")

Row 2: (WS) k19, ssk, ssk, p end, pick up 1 stitch from gap to lower edge of knitted CO, then pick up 20 stitches from the lower edge of knitted CO - your piece should now look similar to the one in picture 3.

Row 3: (RS) k19, ssk, ssk, k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k to end

Row 4: (WS)  k19, ssk, ssk, p2, w+t, (RS) k to end, turn,

  (WS) k19, ssk, p2, w+t, (RS) k to end, turn

  (WS) k19, ssk,  p to last 20 stitches, k20

Row 5: (RS) k19, ssk,  k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k to end

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until there are 56 or fewer stitches on your needles (the 56 are: 2x20 sts garter stitch (upper edge) and 16 sts stockinette thumb gusset). Make sure to end after a row you knitted from the inside (i.e. with purl stitches between the upper edge (RS)). If you have 56 or less stitches and have just finished a row 4, do an alternative version of row 4 without any short rows and without any decreases (i.e. Row 5b: (RS) k20, p to last 20 sts, k20).

Try your mitts on. if the upper edge does not fit around your fingers, you can add to the upper edge garter stitch ribbing by knitting a few garter stitch ridges as follows:
Row 1: k20 turn (do not wrap)
Row 2: k20

Hold right sides of the upper edge together and do a three-needle BO of the upper 20 stitches (see picture 4. Secure the stitch that's left over from the three-needle BO and turn the upper part back right sides out.

Part 4: Thumb, lower part

Starting with the stitch that's left over from three-needle BO start the thumb. There are about 16 sts left. Pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap between the leftover stitch and the rest of the stitches, knit the 16 stitches, and pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap on the other side. Over the next four rounds, knit stockinette stitch while decreasing over the stitches you picked up over the gap - until there are 16 stitches left (or the number of stitches you're aiming for).

If there were 16 stockinette stitches left after part 3 was finished:

Round 1: k2, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1

Round 2: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1

Knit about 2 more rounds of stockinette stitch.

Part 5: Thumb, ribbing

This bit is really very fiddly - if you don't like doing this, you can alternatively just knit a few rows of k1p1-ribbing and then bind off loosely. But I wanted a "garter stitch" ribbing to finish the thumb, so I did it as follows.

With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 7 stitches on a new needle. Hold this needle close to the thumb stitches of your glove and (as RS) knit these 7 new stitches. As WS, sl1, k5, and do an ssk with the last of the new stitches and the first of the original thumb stitches on your needle. Then turn your work, slip the first stitch (the ssk from the last row) and k to end (RS). As WS, again sl1, k5, and do an ssk with the last of the new stitches and the next of the original thumb stitches (see photo 5). Repeat until all the original thumb stitches have been used.

Move the stitches from the provisional CO to a new needle and graft both sides in garter stitch (see photo 6). 

Currently my favorite combination - Inbetween Mitts and my Ojos de Bruja scarf

This blogpost was featured at the Linky Ladies Community Link Party No. 91 and at the Knitting Love monthly link party #19. Thank you!

U-Turn Mitts - Gratis Haakpatroon

Now available: a Dutch translation of the U-Turn Mitts. Thank you so much, sannemethorst (Ravelry user name).

Edit: 28.09.2021: updated PDF pattern link - somehow google seems to have changed the links on GoogleDrive so the old links weren't working anymore)

The original English version is available in this blogpost.

Stack Overflow Mitts

Usually, when I knit a cowl or a scarf, I plan to knit a matching pair of (fingerless) gloves - or when I knit a pair of gloves, I plan to knit a matching cowl. Usually, this never gets beyond the planning phase ... And even though I have lots of scarfs/cowls and lots of pairs of fingerless gloves they seldom match.

So I am quite proud that this time I actually managed to knit a matching set - and not only in terms of the yarn I used, but also as concerns the stitch technique. In March I published a pattern for a cowl with stacked stitches - called the Stack Overflow Cowl. Even though it's made from quite cheap sock yarn, I love to wear it. And since there was yarn left, I decided to design a pair of fingerless gloves with stacked stitches as a decorative element; the construction is based on my Strata Fingerless Gloves (published last year).

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials

• a total of about 35 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors - about 25 grams of your Main Color and 10 grams of your Contrast Color.
• 3.25mm needles (circulars or dpns for the thumb and straights or circulars for the body part)
• scrap yarn for the  provisional CO
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• tapestry needle to graft and to weave in ends

Special Stitches and Techniques

• kyok = k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch
• SB = slip back the number of sts to the left hand needle
• inc1-9 = [kyok, SB2] 3 times, kyok, k3
  This is called stacked increase. A YouTube video that shows how to make stacked increases can be found on So, I make stuff's YouTube channel
• dec9-1 = k3, s1, k2tog, psso, SB1, k2tog, pass next st over, SB1 2 times, k2tog, pass next st over. This is called stacked decrease. Also from So, I make stuff's YouTube channel here's a video that shows how to do stacked decreases.
• BBO = backwards bind off: insert the left hand needle into the last 2 sts and knit together, alternatively you can turn your work: do a p2tog and slip the last st back on the left hand needle
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short Rows with Wrap and Turn (w+t): In this pattern short rows are used to shape the mitt, i.e. to make it a bit wider at the bottom edge. The pattern is written with "wrap and turn"-short rows (see this YouTube Video by Very Pink Knits and this YouTube Video to show how to pick up wraps on the purl side by knitfreedom.com) - however, any method that you like works as well. 
• Grafting Stockinette Stitch / Kitchener Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Basic Construction
The schematic below shows the construction of these mitts. The mitts are started at the thumb (1) which is knitted in the round. Then an increasing oval shape is knitted (2) - half of the stitches of the oval are put on a stitch holder to be used later. At one end of the oval a provisional CO is added, to give length to the shaft of the mitts.
The main body part (3) is knitted flat - first a few stockinette rows - followed by a stacked stitch pattern to decorate the back of your hand and then stockinette stitch again to cover the palm. The last row is attached to the provisional CO and the stitches from the stitch holder by means of a three needle BO.
Photos of the mitt in construction can be found in this blogpost (the pattern for Strata Fingerless Gloves).

Gauge / Measurements
Since the pattern uses different stitches on the back and palm side of the mitts, they are slightly lopsided. The finished mitts measure 18 cm in length on the palm side - and 21 cm on the back of the hands. They measure about 19 cm in  circumference at the wrist end, and about 17 cm at the top end. However, the width (circumference) can easily be adapted to fit your hand size.
When knitting in stockinette stitch 12 sts equalled 5 cm in width and 16 rows equalled 5 cm in height.

Instructions

Thumb
With your Main Color CO18
Rounds 1-10: *p1 k1 p1, repeat from *
Round 11: *p1 k1 p1 mk1, repeat from *
Rounds 12-15: *p1 k1, repeat from *

In row 15 either place two markers (one at the beginning of the round - the other at the middle of the row (i.e. after 12 sts)) or use the magic loop technique and distribute the stitches evenly on the front and back needle (12 sts each).

Rounds 16  and 17: * kfb, k to last stitch of this needle (or last stitch before marker), kfb, repeat from *
Rounds 18 to 21: *kfb, kfb,  k to last 2 sts of this needle (or last 2 sts before marker), kfb, kfb, repeat from *

After round 21 you should have a total of 64 sts on your needles - these stitches now form an oval shape. For the body part only one side of this oval will be used.

Body
Row 0 (RS): kfb, knit to last stitch on this needle (or last stitch before marker), kfb - do a provisional CO of 15 new stitches on a third needle - then continue knitting these new sts in row 0. If you want to customize your mitts to have a shorter or longer shaft, you can adjust them here by provisionally casting on more or less stitches - just make sure that the total number of stitches (half of the thumb stitches plus the provisional CO) is a multiple of 4 plus 3. E.g., half of the thumb stitches are 32. 32 + 15 (pCO) = 47 - and 47 = 11x4 + 3.

Put the rest of the stitches on scrap yarn or on a stitch holder

First some "neutral rows" to place the stacked stitches on the back of your hands. These neutral rows are basically all stockinette - except for some garter sts at the edges to prevent rolling at the sides.
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 2 (RS): k all
Row 3 (WS): k5, p10, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k all
(Rows 3 and 4 are short rows added to make the wrist end of the mitts wider)
Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice more.

Now start the stacked stitches sequence:
Stacked Row 1 (WS): k all
Stacked Row 2 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Stacked Row 3 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change to Contrast Color
Stacked Row 4 (RS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 5 (WS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 6 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4
Stacked Row 7 (WS): k all
Stacked Row 8 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Stacked Row 9 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change back to Main Color
Stacked Row 10 (RS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 11 (WS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 12 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4

Now continue with neutral rows:
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 2 (RS): k all
Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times more, then knit some short rows at the wrist end.
Row 9 (WS): k5, p10, w+t
Row 10 (RS): k all
Row 11 = Row 1
Row 12 = Row 2

Repeat these rows until the glove fits around your hands.

Now prepare for joining the sides together with a three-needle bind-off.

Put the stitches from your scrap yarn/stitch holder on your 2nd needle as well as the stitches of the provsional CO.

After you have picked up the stitches from the scrap yarn and your provisional CO, you'll notice two gaps around the thumb (one on top of the thumb, the other at the transition to the shaft. To avoid holes in the finished piece you'll have to pick up a stitch from these gaps and put them on the needle. To do this you need to transfer the stitches to a new needle - and when you reach the gap, pick up the the horizontal piece of yarn between the two stitches with your left needle, and twist it (as in a mk1-sts). Now you have one stitch more which will help to avoid a hole. Do the same for with the last stitches of that row.

Now hold both needles together and do a kitchener stitch (grafting). Weave in ends.

 Differences for the 2nd Mitt

The second mitt must be knitted differently to mke it mirror inverted to the first. Here are the instructions for the 2nd mitt.

Knit the thumb part as for the 1st mitt.

Body

The basic difference is that for the neutral rows, WS and RS are switched, i.e. for mitt no. 1 your first comple body row is a WS row, while for the 2nd mitt, it's an RS row. This also means that the short rows (to widen the shaft) are knitted on the WS.

Row 0 (WS): do a provisional CO of 15 new stitches on a third needle and knit these stitches using your working yarn.

Row 1 (RS): k all
Row 2 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 3: (RS): k all
Row 4 (WS): k5, p to to last 5 sts, k5
Row 5 (RS): k15 w+t, k to end
Repeat rows 3 and 4 twice more

Then knit the stacked stiches sequence.

Continue knitting the same number of neutrals rows (including the same number of short rows) as for your first mitt.

Then move the thumb stitches from your scrap yarn to the 2nd needle as well as the stitches from the provisional CO (don't forget to pick up stitches around the thumb to avoid holes) and graft both sides together.

This post was featured at the Knitting Love Link Party #16 and at the Fiber Tuesday Linkparty #99. Thank you!

Fingerless Gloves with Stacked Stitces

Ever since I've seen stacked stitches I wanted to do my own patterns with it. I first succeed earlier this year when I knitted my Stack Overflow Cowl (free pattern available here), but I always wanted to do fingerless gloves with this technique.

I first imagined something knitted in the round around the thumb (a bit like my Circle Mitts, but with stacked stitches), but I haven't managed to make that work (yet?). So I decided to do something on the lines of the Strata Fingerless Gloves but with a panel of stacked stitches on the back of the hands.

So far, I like it. But I haven't decided yet, whether to make the second one exactly the same or with opposing colors, i.e. starting with the lighter tone and using the darker yarn only for the stacked stitches ...

Widows Weeds Fingerless Gloves

After my dad died earlier this year, my mum asked me to knit a pair of black fingerless gloves for her. I decided on something unspectacular with an easy lace pattern, so that it would be suitable of early spring and not too flashy.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 25 to 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm dpns
• 3 stitch markers
• scrap yarn or yarn holder 
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

Lace pattern 

This lace pattern works in the round with any multiple of 8 stitches:

Round 1: p1, k7 

Round 2: p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1

Round 3: p1, k7 

Round 4: p1, k7 

Round 5: p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, 

Round 6: p1, k7 

Instructions

CO48 (or any other muliple of 8) and join in round and place a stitch marker to mark the end of the round

Knit 6 rows of p1, k3-ribbing

Then start the lace pattern

Round 1: * p1, k7, repeat from *

Round 2: * p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from *

Round 3: * p1, k7, repeat from * 

Round 4: * p1, k7, repeat from * 

Round 5: * p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, repeat from * 

Round 6: * p1, k7,  repeat from * 

and repeat rounds 1 to 6 until you start the thumb gusset. In the last round place two stitch markers around one purl channel

Thumb gusset

While continuing the lace pattern for the rest of the round knit the thumb gusset as follows

Round 1: [lace pattern up to marker] into the purl stitch: k1 yo k1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 2: [lace pattern up to marker] p1 k1 p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 3: [lace pattern up to marker] p1 k1 p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 4: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, into the knit stitch: k1 yo k1, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 5: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 6: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 7: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, mk1r, k to 2 before marker, mk1l, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 8: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 9: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Repeat the last three rounds until the thumb hole is big enough for you (for me this was the case at 17 sts between the markers

In the next round, knit lace pattern up to marker, place the stitches between the markers on a stitch marker or some scrap yarn, CO1 (with backwards loop CO) and continue the lace pattern to the end of round.

Continue the lace patter for about 2 pattern repeats, and finish with 5 rounds of p1, k3-ribbing, BO in pattern.

Thumb

Remove thumb stitches from stitch holder, and pick up about 5 stitches from the gap (between last thumb stitch and top) and the underside of the backwards loop CO. 

(At this point I had 22 sts on my needles).

Knit stockinette stitch in rounds, knitting decreases in the first two rounds where the stitches from stitch holder meet the newly picked up stitches to avoid gaps. Continue with a few more stockinette stitch rounds. End with a few rows of p1, k2-ribbing. BO in patten.

(The ribbing you can do at the top of the thumb depends on the number of stitches that you aim for - I aimed for a multiple of 3 (22 sts minus twice two decreases = 22-2x2 = 18), that's why I did a p1k2-ribbing. If you finish on a multiple of 4, you can do a p1k3-ribbing to exactly match the ribbing at the top of the mitts.)

Make two.