By chance I found this video where a cable chain ("trenza cadena") is explained. Even though it's in spanish it's easy to follow.
I changed it slightly (basically throwing in a few purl stitches) to knit another pair of fingerless gloves.
Sonntag, 29. Januar 2012
Mittwoch, 25. Januar 2012
Kitchener Stitch
I have tried to do a kitchener stitch several times ... with or without success. I usually manage to get it wrong.
Anyway, for further reference, here's how to do a kitchener stitch:
Further info on grafting can be found here. Especially, grafting garter stitch is explained like this:
Anyway, for further reference, here's how to do a kitchener stitch:
- setup: front purl, back knit.
- front needle: knit-slip and purl-leave
- back needle: purl-slip and knit-leave
Further info on grafting can be found here. Especially, grafting garter stitch is explained like this:
- setup: Front purl, back purl.
- front needle: knit slip, purl.
- back needle: knit slip, purl.
Sonntag, 22. Januar 2012
Margarete Fingerless Gloves
Modifications for a two colour-version are given at the end of this post - as are modifications to make a smaller version (rather ladies size S).
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
Size
Ladies M/L
Lenght: ~19cm
Circumference: ~17cm
Materials
120 metres of DK weight yarn
3.5mm dpns (or circular needles – for magic loop method)
tapestry needle
(crochet hook)
Gauge
7 stitches and 9 rows in 1 inch
(in Stockinette stitch)
Abbreviations
mk1p: make 1 purl stitch, i.e. insert needle from the back in the bar between the two stitches and purl through the front
mk1r: make a knit stitch leaning to the right, i.e. Insert needle from the back in the bar between two stitches and knit the stitch through the front
mk1l: make a knit stitch leaning to the left, i.e. Insert needle from the front in the bar between two stitches and knit the stitch through the back of the loop
pm: place marker
slm: slip marker
Flower Pattern Stitch
One flower is knit as follows: k1, insert needle in stitch 2 rows below and 2 stitches in front & draw a loop of yarn placing it on the right needle (Loop 1), k2, insert needle in stitch 2 rows below and draw a loop of yarn placing it on the right needle (Loop 2), k2, insert needle in stitch 2 rows below and 2 stitches back and draw a loop of yarn, placing it on the right needle (Loop 3)
For the loop stitches, please note the following
→ do not slip the stitch from needle that you have just stitched into
→ make sure to draw all additional loops through the same stitch 2 rows below
→ you have additional loops on your needle, this will we rectified in the next row
→ a crochet hook might be useful for pulling up the loops
In the next row you will have to knit the k stitch in front and the loop together (Kltog) making sure that the loop is in front of the stitch as you knit it, i.e. for one flower: Kltog, k1, Kltog, k1, Kltog
Pattern Chart
The pattern is composed of flowers repeated every 10th row with an offset of 5 rows and one purl stitch between the flower columns.
Instructions
CO48
join in round
work five rounds of ribbing: p1 k2
Set-up Row: p1 k5 (repeat a total of 8 times)
Row 1: p1 k5 (repeat a total of 8 times)
Row 2 = Row 1
Row 3 = Row 1
Row 4: p1 k1 Loop 1 k2 Loop 2 k2 Loop 3 p1 k5 (repeat a total of 4 times)
Row 5: p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog p1 k5 (repeat a total of 4 times)
Row 6 = Row 1
Row 7 = Row 1
Row 8 = Row 1
Row 9: p1 k5 p1 k1 Loop 1 k2 Loop 2 k2 Loop 3 (repeat a total of 4 times)
Row 10: p1 k5 p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog (repeat a total of 4 times)
Repeat 3 times, but to start the thumb gusset change row 10 of the 3rd repeat as follows:
- For the right hand mitt: Row 10 (3rd repeat): p1 k5 p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog (repeat twice) pm p1 pm k5 p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 ksltog p1 k5 p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog
- For the left hand mitt: Row 10 (3rd repeat): p1 k5 p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog (repeat twice) p1 k5 pm p1 pm Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog p1 k5 p1 Kltog k1 Kltog k1 Kltog
Thumb Gusset:
Knit according to pattern until you reach the first stitch marker, then do the following instead of the purl stitch between the markers.
Thumb Row 1: slm mk1p k1 mk1p slm
Thumb Row 2: slm p1 k1 p1 slm
Thumb Row 3: slm p1 mk1r k1 mk1l p1 slm
Thumb Row 4: slm p1 k3 p1 slm
Thumb Row 5: slm p1 mk1r k3 mk1l p1 slm
Thumb Row 6: slm p1 k5 p1 slm
Thumb Row 7: slm p1 mk1r k5 mk1l p1 slm
Thumb Row 8: slm p1 k7 p1 slm
Thumb Row 9: slm p1 mk1r k7 mk1l p1 slm
Thumb Row 10: slm p1 k9 p1 slm
Thumb Row 11: slm p1 mk1r k9 mk1l p1 slm
Thumb Row 12: slm p1 k11 p1 slm
Thumb Row 13: slm p1, move 11 sts to stitch holder, p1 slm
Thumb Row 14: remove marker, p2tog, remove marker
→ once again there are 48 sts on your needles
Continue pattern until rows 1 – 10 have been repeated a total of 5 times
Finishing rows:
Work row 1 of pattern three times
Work 4 rows of ribbing: p1 k2
Bind off in 5th ribbing row
Thumb:
Move 11 stitches from stitch holder on two dpns.
Pick up 5 sts from above thumb gusset (→ 16 sts)
Rows 1 – 4: knit
Rows 5 – 7: k3 p1 (repeat)
Bind off in k3 p1 ribbing in row 8
Modifications if you want to make a two colour version:
- in the loop row knit the loop stitches with the contrast colour
- in the next row, use the main colour to knit the stitches & loops together
The two-colour version in the pictures is also smaller, i.e.it is rather a size S.
- CO 42 instead of 48
- ribbing: p1 k2 p1 k2 p1 (repeat) - and knit the whole pattern as a repeat of 14 (instead of 12 in the wider version), alternating the purl channels in width (one with 2 sts in width, and one with 1 st in width).
Freitag, 6. Januar 2012
Cable Experiment Mitts
I wanted to achieve the effect of cables varying in width.
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License
.
Materials:
Fingering weight yarn (ca. 35 gr)
3mm dpns
stitch holder or waste yarn
The finished mitts will measure 20cm in lenght and ca. 16 cm in circumference
Instructions:
CO56
join in round (14 sts on each needle)
knit 8 ribbing rows:
*p1 k6 p3 k2 p2* (repeat)
start pattern
row 1: *p1 k6 p3 k2 p2* (repeat)
row 2 = row 1
row 3: *p1 C6F p3 C2F* (repeat)
row 4 = row 1
row 5 = row 1
row 6: *p2 k4 p3 k4 p1* (repeat)
row 7 = row 6
row 8: *p2 C4F p3 C4F p1* (repeat)
row9 = row 6
row 10 = row 6
row 11: *p3 k2 p3 k6* (repeat)
row 12 = row 11
row 13: p3 C2F p3 C6F* (repeat)
row 14 = row 11
row 15 = row 11
row 16: *p2 k4 p3 k4 p1* (repeat)
row 17 = row 16
row 18: *p2 C4F p3 C4F p1* (repeat)
row 19 = row 16
row 20 = row 17
start again from row 1
start thumb gusset at stitch 8 in row 20 of the 2nd pattern repeat
after row 13 in 3rd repetition: do 7 rows of ribbing, i.e. *p1 k2 p3 k6 p2* (repeat)
bind off in 8th ribbing row
Thumb gusset
start increases around stitch 8 in row 20 of the 2nd pattern repeat and increase by two sts in every other row, i.e.
in row 19 of 2nd repetition: p2 k4 p1 pm p1 pm p1 k4 p (→ set-up)
in row 20 of 2nd repetition: p2 k4 p1 marker m1right k1 m1left marker p1 k4 p1 (→ increases)
in row 1 of 3rd repetition: p1 k6 marker k3 marker p2 k2 p2 (→ no increases)
in row 2 of 3rd repetition: p1 k6 marker m1right k3 m1left marker p2 k2 p2 (→ increases)
in row 3 of 3rd repetition: p1 C6F marker k5 marker p2 C2F (→ no increases)
… until there are 17 sts between the markers
place sts on markers on stitch holder and CO1 (backloop cast-on) above, so that there are again 56 sts on your needles
Thumb
move stitches from stitch holder on two dpns
pick up 7 sts from above thumb gusset (→ 24 sts)
round 1: k
round 2: k2tog k20 ssk (→ 22 sts)
round 3: k
round 4: k2tog k18 ssk (→ 20 sts)
round 5: k
round 6: bind off
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License
Materials:
Fingering weight yarn (ca. 35 gr)
3mm dpns
stitch holder or waste yarn
The finished mitts will measure 20cm in lenght and ca. 16 cm in circumference
Instructions:
CO56
join in round (14 sts on each needle)
knit 8 ribbing rows:
*p1 k6 p3 k2 p2* (repeat)
start pattern
row 1: *p1 k6 p3 k2 p2* (repeat)
row 2 = row 1
row 3: *p1 C6F p3 C2F* (repeat)
row 4 = row 1
row 5 = row 1
row 6: *p2 k4 p3 k4 p1* (repeat)
row 7 = row 6
row 8: *p2 C4F p3 C4F p1* (repeat)
row9 = row 6
row 10 = row 6
row 11: *p3 k2 p3 k6* (repeat)
row 12 = row 11
row 13: p3 C2F p3 C6F* (repeat)
row 14 = row 11
row 15 = row 11
row 16: *p2 k4 p3 k4 p1* (repeat)
row 17 = row 16
row 18: *p2 C4F p3 C4F p1* (repeat)
row 19 = row 16
row 20 = row 17
start again from row 1
start thumb gusset at stitch 8 in row 20 of the 2nd pattern repeat
after row 13 in 3rd repetition: do 7 rows of ribbing, i.e. *p1 k2 p3 k6 p2* (repeat)
bind off in 8th ribbing row
Thumb gusset
start increases around stitch 8 in row 20 of the 2nd pattern repeat and increase by two sts in every other row, i.e.
in row 19 of 2nd repetition: p2 k4 p1 pm p1 pm p1 k4 p (→ set-up)
in row 20 of 2nd repetition: p2 k4 p1 marker m1right k1 m1left marker p1 k4 p1 (→ increases)
in row 1 of 3rd repetition: p1 k6 marker k3 marker p2 k2 p2 (→ no increases)
in row 2 of 3rd repetition: p1 k6 marker m1right k3 m1left marker p2 k2 p2 (→ increases)
in row 3 of 3rd repetition: p1 C6F marker k5 marker p2 C2F (→ no increases)
… until there are 17 sts between the markers
place sts on markers on stitch holder and CO1 (backloop cast-on) above, so that there are again 56 sts on your needles
Thumb
move stitches from stitch holder on two dpns
pick up 7 sts from above thumb gusset (→ 24 sts)
round 1: k
round 2: k2tog k20 ssk (→ 22 sts)
round 3: k
round 4: k2tog k18 ssk (→ 20 sts)
round 5: k
round 6: bind off
Montag, 2. Januar 2012
Crafting Resolutions for 2012
Knitting/Crocheting resolutions for 2012:
- learn icord BO
- knit something in at least two colours (no stripes)
- do crochet entrelac (FGs)
- “design” at least two patterns
- knit a sweater
- knit a cardigan
- take part in a KAL
- a pair of FGs with beads
- a pair of FGs with half-fingers
Freitag, 23. Dezember 2011
Velvet Cowl
I
made a cowl from a pair of old velvet trousers my mum wanted to throw
away. I cut the trousers into stripes (just like making t-shirt yarn,
but with only about 1cm width, because the material is rather heavy),
tugged the stripes (very gently) and started knitting.
The cowl is knit diagonally.
I used 12mm needles, but thicker needles can be used as well.
CO18
Row 1: ssk k until last stitch kfb
Row 2: purl
Row 3: ssk k until last stitch kfb
Row 4: *knit yo* repeat
Row 5: ssk knit (dropping all yo's) until last stitch kfb
Row 6: ssk k until last stitch kfb
Knit until you run out of material - ideally until the cowl would fit nicely over your head. Then connect the ends by grafting or sewing.
The cowl is knit diagonally.
I used 12mm needles, but thicker needles can be used as well.
CO18
Row 1: ssk k until last stitch kfb
Row 2: purl
Row 3: ssk k until last stitch kfb
Row 4: *knit yo* repeat
Row 5: ssk knit (dropping all yo's) until last stitch kfb
Row 6: ssk k until last stitch kfb
Knit until you run out of material - ideally until the cowl would fit nicely over your head. Then connect the ends by grafting or sewing.
Freitag, 16. Dezember 2011
Bamboo & Ruffles Wrist Warmers
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
Non-Standard Abbreviations:
- yo2k = yo k2 pass the yarn over over both knit stitches
- 1to3 = k1 leave stitch on needle yo k1
Materials:
Fingering weight yarn
3.5mm dpns
Instructions:
CO48
join in round
Rows 1-6: p1 k2 p1 (repeat)
Row 7: p1 yo2k p1 (repeat)
Rows 8-10: p1 k2 p1 (repeat)
repeat rows 7 to 10 a total of 14 times then start with ruffles on top
Ruffle Row 1: p1 1to3 p1 (repeat)
Ruffle Row 2: p1 k1 1to3 k2 1to3 k1 p1 (repeat)
Ruffle Row 3: p1 k10 p1 (repeat)
BO while repeating ruffle row 3.
Make two.
Abonnieren
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