Patchwork Cowl

As the days get colder and greyer, knit yourself this lovely and colourful cowl. It is knitted flat and all in garter stitch. Due to its unique construction it brings out the best of your variegated yarn, e.g. your Zauberball or your Noro yarn. It is basically a variation of an entrelac pattern, but with blocks (squares and rectangles) of different sizes.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 200 grams of fingering weight yarn - preferably variegated yarn
• 3.25mm needles (straight or circulars) 
• a third needle (for three-needle BO)
• a tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techniques and Stitches

• Knitted Cast On: https://youtu.be/xocjmpglM1Q
• Pick up and knit:  https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Join stitches at the edge - as in entrelac: k2tog of the following stitch with the next stich of the underlying rectangle/square. A similar method (but with an ssk instead of an k2tog) is shown in this YouTube video. I will call this stitch k2tog-join in the pattern.
• Pick up stitches (without knitting them): https://youtu.be/7c5IzAE_hn8
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0

Construction

Figure X shows the general construction of the cowl. It is knitted flat and connected in the end (i.e. after the last layer or connected while knitting the last layer).

Figure 1: General Construction

Figure 2 shows how the layers make up the cowl. Odd-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 rectangles that are 8 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 rectangles that are 16 stitches wide and 16 ridges high. Even-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 that are 16 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 that are 8 stitches wide and 16 ridges high.

Rectangles/squares from one layer are knitted at a 90 degree angle to the knitting direction of the layer below.

Figure 2: Layers

In even numbered layers, rectangle 1 connects to square 5 of the layer below, rectangle 2 uses stitches picked up from square 5 of the layer below as base and is connected at the side to square of of the layer below, rectangle 3 is based on picked up stitches from the side of square 4 of the layer below and is connected to square 3 of the layer below ... and so on.

In layer 3 and the following odd numbered layers, square 1 is based on stitches from the side of rectangle 5 of the layer below and connected at the side to rectangle 4 of the layer below, and so on. The last square of an odd numbered layer is based on the stitches from rectangle 1 of the layer below and not connected while knitting it.

Instructions

Layer 1

Square 1 

CO8 stitches with knitted CO

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 2

CO 16 stitches with knitted CO (your piece should look as shown in photo 1 of picture A)

Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

Square 3 (=  Square 1)

CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 4 (= Square 2)

CO 16 stitches with knitted CO 

Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

(Now your piece should look similar to photo 1 of picture A)

Square 5 (= Square 1)

CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Layer 2

Rectangle 1

CO15 with knitted CO (your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture A)

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k to end, turn

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join

Row 4: sl1, k to end, turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times

Row 15: sl1 k14, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 2

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k7, turn

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 3

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k15, turn

Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k15 turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) more times

Row 15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 4

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k7, turn

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 5

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k15, turn

Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k15 turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six more times

Row  15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join

Row 16: BO15 stitches



Picture A: Illustrations for Layers 1 and 2

Layer 3

Square 1

Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 5 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles

Row 2: sl1, k to end

Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 4 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) times

Row 15: sl1, k to end

Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 2

Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 4 of the layer below, TURN

Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) times

Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 3

Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 3 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles

Row 2: sl1, k7, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 2 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3  six (6) times

Row 15: sl1, k to end

Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

  

Square 4

Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 2 of the layer below, TURN

Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3  fourteen (14) times

Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 5

Row 1: pick up and knit 8 stitches from side of rectangle 1 of layer below

Rows 2-15: sl1, k7

DO NOT TURN but go on knitted CO of next layer

Repeat Layers 2 and 3 until the piece is roughly as long as you want it. Make sure to end with a layer 3.

 

Picture B: Illustrations for Last Layer

Last Layer

The last layer is basically the same as layer 2 with connections to the very first layer. This requires connecting the very first CO and connecting to the last knitted layer at the same time which can feel a bit awkward ... if you want to avoid this, you can just knit one more layer 2 and then sew the edges together.

However, here's how to do it without sewing.

Fold the scarf in a way so that the first layer faces the last layer with a gap about one layer wide (see photo 1 of picture B)

Rectangle 1

CO15 with knitted CO

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 5 of the very first layer.

Rectangle 1 will not only be connected to the last layer but also to these stitches picked up from the first layer. See photo 2 in picture B.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 5 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times

Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 4 of layer 1.

Your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture B

Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle. (See photo 4 of picture B)

Rectangle 2

Pick up and knit 8 stitches (from the side of square 4 of the layer below)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 4 of layer 1).

Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 4 of the layer below and square 4 of the first layer.

See photo 5 of picture B.

Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle

With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 3 of layer 1.

Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 3

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 3 of the very first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 3 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times.

Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 2 of layer 1.

Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 4

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 2 of layer 1). See photo 6 of picture B.

Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 2 of the layer below and square 2 of the first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle

With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 1 of layer 1.

Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 5

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 1 of the very first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 1 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 seven (7) more times.

Row 18: BO all stitches  

Weave in ends and block gently.



This blogpost was featured at Be A Crafter Craft Along Link Party #148, Oui Crochet's Fiber Tuesday Linkparty #82 and at Knitting Love Link Party #15 by Underground Crafter. Thank you!

Zauberball Tiling

Recently, when I thought again about what to do with my two skeins of Zauberball Fuchsienbeet. I had them lying around since I tried something with them last year which didn't exactly work out.

This time I wanted to try a (sort of) entrelac pattern, but with different sized patches. Even though the colors don't distribute as evenly as I would like them to, I really like how it looks. The pattern reminds me of parquetry or tiling. 

Fingerless Gloves with Stacked Stitces

Ever since I've seen stacked stitches I wanted to do my own patterns with it. I first succeed earlier this year when I knitted my Stack Overflow Cowl (free pattern available here), but I always wanted to do fingerless gloves with this technique.

I first imagined something knitted in the round around the thumb (a bit like my Circle Mitts, but with stacked stitches), but I haven't managed to make that work (yet?). So I decided to do something on the lines of the Strata Fingerless Gloves but with a panel of stacked stitches on the back of the hands.

So far, I like it. But I haven't decided yet, whether to make the second one exactly the same or with opposing colors, i.e. starting with the lighter tone and using the darker yarn only for the stacked stitches ...

Checkered Lace Scarf

In preparation for autumn, my mum asked me to knit a new black scarf for her to match her black mitts.

I wanted to do something no completely black, so I tried to introduce some kind of "pattern" with lace stitches to loosen up the black a bit. I ended up with a checkered pattern, with rectangles of lace alternating with garter-stitch-only rectangles.

The pattern looks the same from RS and WS, i.e. it is completely reversible.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





Materials

• 150 to 200 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3.5mm needles
• 4 stitch markers
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Construction

The scarf consists of 5 squares (or nearly squares) in width - alternating garter stitch squares with lace squares. The arrangement of the squares is shown in the picture below.

How to Knit the Lace Squares

Row 1: * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from *
Row 2: * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from *
Row 3: k all
Row 4: * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from *
Row 5: * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from *
Row 6: k all

When knitting one of the side rectangles, the lace part is widened with 2 edge stitches.

Instructions

CO64
Setup Row: sl1 k13, pm (= place marker), k12, pm, k12, pm, k12, pm, k14

Since the pattern is reversible and looks the same from RS and WS, I'd advise you to mark the RS as soon as possible.

2x Lace Section
Row 1a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 2a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 3a (RS):  sl1, k all
Row 4a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 5a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 6a (WS): sl1, k all
Knit rows 1a to 6a two more times
Inbetween row (RS): sl1, k all

3x Lace-Section
Row 1b (WS): sl1, k1 * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 2b (RS): sl1, k1, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 3b (WS): sl1, k all
Row 4b (RS):  sl1, k1 * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 5b (WS): sl1, k1, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until there are only 2 sts left, k2
Row 6b (RS): sl1, k all
Knit rows 1b to 6b two more times
Inbetween row (WS): sl1, k all

Repeat alternating 2x Lace-Sections and 3xLace-Sections until the scarf is about as long as you'd like it.

End with 2x Lace-Section as follows
Row 1a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 2a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 3a (RS):  sl1, k all
Row 4a (WS): sl1, k to marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to next marker, * sl1, k2tog, psso, yo twice, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 5a (RS): sl1, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to marker, * k1 p1 into double yo, k1, repeat from * until you reach the marker, k to end
Row 6a (WS): sl1, k all
Knit rows 1a to 6a two more times
BO loosely.

Weave in ends and block gently.

Widows Weeds Fingerless Gloves

After my dad died earlier this year, my mum asked me to knit a pair of black fingerless gloves for her. I decided on something unspectacular with an easy lace pattern, so that it would be suitable of early spring and not too flashy.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 25 to 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm dpns
• 3 stitch markers
• scrap yarn or yarn holder 
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

Lace pattern 

This lace pattern works in the round with any multiple of 8 stitches:

Round 1: p1, k7 

Round 2: p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1

Round 3: p1, k7 

Round 4: p1, k7 

Round 5: p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, 

Round 6: p1, k7 

Instructions

CO48 (or any other muliple of 8) and join in round and place a stitch marker to mark the end of the round

Knit 6 rows of p1, k3-ribbing

Then start the lace pattern

Round 1: * p1, k7, repeat from *

Round 2: * p1, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from *

Round 3: * p1, k7, repeat from * 

Round 4: * p1, k7, repeat from * 

Round 5: * p1, k1, yo, ssk, k1, yo, ssk, k1, repeat from * 

Round 6: * p1, k7,  repeat from * 

and repeat rounds 1 to 6 until you start the thumb gusset. In the last round place two stitch markers around one purl channel

Thumb gusset

While continuing the lace pattern for the rest of the round knit the thumb gusset as follows

Round 1: [lace pattern up to marker] into the purl stitch: k1 yo k1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 2: [lace pattern up to marker] p1 k1 p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 3: [lace pattern up to marker] p1 k1 p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 4: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, into the knit stitch: k1 yo k1, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 5: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 6: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 7: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, mk1r, k to 2 before marker, mk1l, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 8: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Round 9: [lace pattern up to marker] p1, k to 1 before marker, p1 [marker, lace pattern to end]

Repeat the last three rounds until the thumb hole is big enough for you (for me this was the case at 17 sts between the markers

In the next round, knit lace pattern up to marker, place the stitches between the markers on a stitch marker or some scrap yarn, CO1 (with backwards loop CO) and continue the lace pattern to the end of round.

Continue the lace patter for about 2 pattern repeats, and finish with 5 rounds of p1, k3-ribbing, BO in pattern.

Thumb

Remove thumb stitches from stitch holder, and pick up about 5 stitches from the gap (between last thumb stitch and top) and the underside of the backwards loop CO. 

(At this point I had 22 sts on my needles).

Knit stockinette stitch in rounds, knitting decreases in the first two rounds where the stitches from stitch holder meet the newly picked up stitches to avoid gaps. Continue with a few more stockinette stitch rounds. End with a few rows of p1, k2-ribbing. BO in patten.

(The ribbing you can do at the top of the thumb depends on the number of stitches that you aim for - I aimed for a multiple of 3 (22 sts minus twice two decreases = 22-2x2 = 18), that's why I did a p1k2-ribbing. If you finish on a multiple of 4, you can do a p1k3-ribbing to exactly match the ribbing at the top of the mitts.)

Make two.

Bitilasana Yoga Socks

Recently, a friend asked me to knit some yoga socks for her – she only specified the colors she wanted: black and fuchsia. So, first of all I went stash-diving and found that I had three yarns (in fingering weight) that would fit that color scheme – and then I thought about the design. As usual, I wanted something without any yarn cutting while knitting one piece. Unfortunately, I didn’t reach that specific goal but nevertheless, I quite like the look of these yoga socks.

This pattern describes how to do this in three colors. Of course you can adjust it and knit it only with one yarn or in two colors. I guess it would look interesting with some variegated sock yarn (and with one yarn you wouldn’t even have to break your yarn while knitting one sock :)

As to the name: the wavy lines reminded me of the cat-cow-sequence in yoga; and Bitilasana is the name for cow pose.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

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Materials

• a total of about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn in 3 colors
• 3 knitting needles (3mm), it’s best to use double pointed needles (e.g. one circular and one straight needle)
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends
• scrap yarn for crochet provisional CO
• a crochet hook for crochet provisional CO

Techniques

• Provisional Cast-On: My preferred method of a provisional cast-on is the crochet provisional CO – as shown in this YouTube Video
• Grafting: Joni Coniglio has written a series on grafting (“5 Grafting Myths”) on the knitting daily blog. All her post can be found here: http://www.knittingdaily.com/author/joni-coniglio/).
  The techniques used here, can be found in this blog post.
• Here's a short (!) description of the grafting techniques used for this pattern:
• If you want to graft in garter stitch you can do it in two ways – depending on the way you hold your knitting and which yarn you’re using.
• (1) If you do it with your working yarn (in case of this pattern the needle you knitted your last row with is the front needle), you’d want to have the knit valley in front and the purl ridge on the back needle.
  Here the formula is (in short): Front needle: knit slip, purl leave; back needle: knit slip, purl leave
  Or spelled out: 
• First stitch: on front needle insert needle purlwise and leave stitch on the needle, on the back needle do the same 
• For all following stitches:
  Front needle: insert needle knitwise and slip stitch from needle, insert needle purlwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle
  Back needle: do the same, i.e. insert needle knitwise and slip stitch from needle, insert needle purlwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle
• (2) If you work with yarn that you kept when casting on your stitches (in case of this pattern, your front needle contains the stitches of the provisional CO), you’d want the purl ridge on the front needle and the knit valley on the back needle.
• Here is the formula in short: Front needle: purl slip, knit leave; back needle: purl slip, knit leave
• Or spelled out:
  First stitch: on front needle insert needle knitwise and leave stitch on the needle, on the back needle do the same
  For all following stitches:
  Front needle: insert needle purlwise and slip stitch from needle, insert needle knitwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle
  Back needle: do the same, i.e. insert needle purlwise and slip stitch from needle, insert needle knitwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle
• (3) If you want to decrease a stitch while grafting, you need to push the … needle through two stitches instead of one, both when it’s left on the needle, and when you’re about to slip it off.
  E.g. when you want to decrease a stitch on your front needle in the middle of a row in garter stitch:
• Front needle: insert needle knitwise and slip stitch (stitch before the decrease), insert needle purlwise through the next two stitches (the decrease) and leave on needle 
• Back needle: insert needle knitwise and slip stitch from needle, insert needle purlwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle
• Front needle: insert needle knitwise into the first two stitches (as if to k2tog) and slip from needle, insert needle purlwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle
• Back needle: insert needle knitwise and slip stitch from needle, insert needle purlwise into the next stitch and leave the stitch on your needle

Gauge and What to Measure
Before starting to knit measure the circumference of your ankles. You will be asked to knit until you have reached half of that circumference.

General Construction
The picture below shows the general construction. You start with half of the intended lenght of the sock for the first provisional CO. Then you knit half of the sock's circumference and afterwards provisionally CO the other half of the intended stitches. The part that is knitted next is used to cover the back of the foot and the front part of your ankles (wide part in the middle).
When this is finished, the first provisional CO is grafted to the upper stitches creating the first tube of your sock. Then you continue in another narrow strip of horizontal ribs and finish with a second graft to complete the second part of the tube.

Instructions

Lower narrow part

With scrap yarn provisionally CO22 sts, leave a tail long enough to graft and knit the first row with colour 1.
With color 2:
Row 1 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 2 (WS): k all
With color 3:
Row 3 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 4 (WS): k all
With color 1:
Row 5 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 6 (WS): k all
With color 2:
Row 7 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 8 (WS): k all
With color 3:
Row 9 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 10 (WS): k all
Repeat rows 5 to 10 until the piece as long as half the circumference of your feet.


Wide part

With color 1:
Row 1 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 2 (WS): k all - on a third needle provisionally cast on 20 stitches and continue knitting row 2.
(see photos 1 and 2 in the illustration below).
With color 2:
Row 3 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 4 (WS): k all
With color 3:
Row 5 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 6 (WS): k all
With color 1:
Row 7 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 8 (WS): k all
With color 2:
Row 9 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 10 (WS): k all
With color 3:
Row 11 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 12 (WS): k all

Repeat rows 7 to 12 until the piece as long as the circumference of your feet.
Slip stitches to other side of the needle.

Put the first provisionally CO stitches on another needle (photo 3), fold it over (photo 4) and graft these 22 stitches to 20 of the that are on the working needle with the yarn tail in color 1.

The needle holding the stitches from the former provisional CO is now the front needle.
Use the grafting technique (2) as described above while decreasing the first and last stitch on your front needle (as described under grafting techniques (3) above).

Upper narrow part

With color 1:
Row 1 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 2 (WS): k all
With color 2:
Row 3 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 4 (WS): k all
With color 3:
Row 5 (RS): k1, * kfb k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, kfb, repeat from * until there is only one stitch left
Row 6 (WS): k all

Repeat rows 1 to 6 until you have reached the circumference of your feet - measuring from the second provisional CO 

Cut your yarn but leave a tail long enough for grafting.

Put the 20 stitches from the 2nd provisional CO on another needle (photo 5) and graft it to the 22 sts on the working needle (photo 6). The former working needle is your front needle while grafting

Use grafting technique (1) as described above and decrease the fifth stitch on the front needle and the fifth stitch before the last.

Weave in ends.

Make two.

Sideways Top

Currently, instead of knitting small things like slippers or fingerless gloves, I like doing bigger projects, i.e. tops and sweaters. And since I don't like the finishing work on my knitting projects (i.e. assembling the pieces or weaving in ends) I have tried to design a sweater that can be knitted in one piece and that doesn't have to be sewn together in the end. I hope it will work.

Here's what it looks like so far.