Burgdorf Cowl

Modular knitting is always great to show off yarn with a longer color gradient. This cowl makes no exception. It is knitted flat in trapezoids at right angles to each other. When it's long enough it is  worked into a cowl by grafting.

This cowl is named after the lovely town of Burgdorf in Switzerland where I spend a wonderful time at a friend's place. It's where knitted this cowl.
 

 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

A German version of this pattern is available in this blogpost.
Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.
 

Materials

• about 100 grams of lace weight yarn - I used Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 285
• 3.25mm needles - I recommend long circulars, you can use straight needles as well, but you might need 3 needles at times (e.g. when you pick up stitches to start a new trapezoid or when you graft the ends together at the end); I used rather short circulars
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• one stitch marker
• a tapestry needle for grafting and for weaving in ends

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Picking up stitches from the side and knitting them (pick up and knit): https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Picking up stitches without working yarn (pick up):  https://youtu.be/7c5IzAE_hn8
  For the difference between pick up and knit vs. pick up see this blogpost by SPINNITY KNITS.
• Grafting in garter stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Gauge and Size

When knitting in garter stitch 13 stitches gave 5 cm in width, and 12 garter stitch ridges (i.e. 24 rows) 5 cm in height.

I knitted a total of 24 trapezoids (using up my 100 grams of lace weight yarn). After blocking my cowl measured 22 cm in width and 120 cm in circumference.


Construction

The picture below shows the general construction. The cowl is made from modules in trapezoid shape that build on each other. In the end the upper edge of the last trapezoid is grafted to the lower edge of the 2nd one - and the lower edge of the very first trapezoid is grafted to the upper edge of the one but last trapezoid plus a few picked up stitches.

The picture to the right shows how the first trapezoid sections fit together. Trapezoid 2 is knitted at right angles to trapezoid 1 (picking up stitches from trapezoid 1). Trapezoid 3 is knitted on top of trapezoid 1, using the leftover stitches from trapezoid 1 and stitches picked up from the side of trapezoid 2. Trapezoid 4 in turn is knitted at right angles to trapezoid 3, using stitches picked up from the side trapezoid 3 and the leftover stitches from trapezoid 2. And so on ...

 

Instructions

PCO 80 with scrap yarn
Slip 30 sts, place marker, k50 with working yarn


Trapezoid 1
R1: ssk, k to m
R2: sl1, k to end
R3: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 2 and 3 18 more times
There are now 30 stitches with working yarn on your needles - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid
Your piece should now look like in photo 1.

Trapezoid 2
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of trapezoid 1, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the provisional CO -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. Your piece should look like in photo 2.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for trapezoid 2 - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid

Trapezoid 3
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of the last trapezoid, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the last but one trapezoid  -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. The upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 3.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Trapezoid 4
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of the last trapezoid, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the last but one trapezoid  -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. The upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 3.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Repeat trapezoids 3 and 4 until your cowl has the desired length.
I knitted a total of 24 trapezoids since I prefer my cowls to be double-length, i.e. I like them to fit at least twice around my neck.

Cut yarn and leave long tail (enough to graft 30 stitches)

Put stitches from pCO on a new knitting needle (since I didn't have another 3.25mm needle – I used a slightly smaller one (3mm)). For orientation you might want to place a marker between the two first trapezoids (i.e. there will be 50 stitches for the very first trapezoid and 30 stitches for the 2nd).

Hold the last trapezoid you knitted and the 2nd trapezoid together (see photo 5) and graft together in garter stitch (30 sts) with the tail you left after knitting the last trapezoid.

From the side of the last trapezoid pick up 20 sts (please note that this is not pick up and knit). Combined with the stitches of the one but last trapezoid you now have 50 stitches on that needle.
Hold these stitches together with the provisional CO of the very first trapezoid (see photo 6) and graft in garter stitch.

Block gently.

Stack Overflow Mitts

Usually, when I knit a cowl or a scarf, I plan to knit a matching pair of (fingerless) gloves - or when I knit a pair of gloves, I plan to knit a matching cowl. Usually, this never gets beyond the planning phase ... And even though I have lots of scarfs/cowls and lots of pairs of fingerless gloves they seldom match.

So I am quite proud that this time I actually managed to knit a matching set - and not only in terms of the yarn I used, but also as concerns the stitch technique. In March I published a pattern for a cowl with stacked stitches - called the Stack Overflow Cowl. Even though it's made from quite cheap sock yarn, I love to wear it. And since there was yarn left, I decided to design a pair of fingerless gloves with stacked stitches as a decorative element; the construction is based on my Strata Fingerless Gloves (published last year).

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials

• a total of about 35 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors - about 25 grams of your Main Color and 10 grams of your Contrast Color.
• 3.25mm needles (circulars or dpns for the thumb and straights or circulars for the body part)
• scrap yarn for the  provisional CO
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• tapestry needle to graft and to weave in ends

Special Stitches and Techniques

• kyok = k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch
• SB = slip back the number of sts to the left hand needle
• inc1-9 = [kyok, SB2] 3 times, kyok, k3
  This is called stacked increase. A YouTube video that shows how to make stacked increases can be found on So, I make stuff's YouTube channel
• dec9-1 = k3, s1, k2tog, psso, SB1, k2tog, pass next st over, SB1 2 times, k2tog, pass next st over. This is called stacked decrease. Also from So, I make stuff's YouTube channel here's a video that shows how to do stacked decreases.
• BBO = backwards bind off: insert the left hand needle into the last 2 sts and knit together, alternatively you can turn your work: do a p2tog and slip the last st back on the left hand needle
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short Rows with Wrap and Turn (w+t): In this pattern short rows are used to shape the mitt, i.e. to make it a bit wider at the bottom edge. The pattern is written with "wrap and turn"-short rows (see this YouTube Video by Very Pink Knits and this YouTube Video to show how to pick up wraps on the purl side by knitfreedom.com) - however, any method that you like works as well. 
• Grafting Stockinette Stitch / Kitchener Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Basic Construction
The schematic below shows the construction of these mitts. The mitts are started at the thumb (1) which is knitted in the round. Then an increasing oval shape is knitted (2) - half of the stitches of the oval are put on a stitch holder to be used later. At one end of the oval a provisional CO is added, to give length to the shaft of the mitts.
The main body part (3) is knitted flat - first a few stockinette rows - followed by a stacked stitch pattern to decorate the back of your hand and then stockinette stitch again to cover the palm. The last row is attached to the provisional CO and the stitches from the stitch holder by means of a three needle BO.
Photos of the mitt in construction can be found in this blogpost (the pattern for Strata Fingerless Gloves).

Gauge / Measurements
Since the pattern uses different stitches on the back and palm side of the mitts, they are slightly lopsided. The finished mitts measure 18 cm in length on the palm side - and 21 cm on the back of the hands. They measure about 19 cm in  circumference at the wrist end, and about 17 cm at the top end. However, the width (circumference) can easily be adapted to fit your hand size.
When knitting in stockinette stitch 12 sts equalled 5 cm in width and 16 rows equalled 5 cm in height.

Instructions

Thumb
With your Main Color CO18
Rounds 1-10: *p1 k1 p1, repeat from *
Round 11: *p1 k1 p1 mk1, repeat from *
Rounds 12-15: *p1 k1, repeat from *

In row 15 either place two markers (one at the beginning of the round - the other at the middle of the row (i.e. after 12 sts)) or use the magic loop technique and distribute the stitches evenly on the front and back needle (12 sts each).

Rounds 16  and 17: * kfb, k to last stitch of this needle (or last stitch before marker), kfb, repeat from *
Rounds 18 to 21: *kfb, kfb,  k to last 2 sts of this needle (or last 2 sts before marker), kfb, kfb, repeat from *

After round 21 you should have a total of 64 sts on your needles - these stitches now form an oval shape. For the body part only one side of this oval will be used.

Body
Row 0 (RS): kfb, knit to last stitch on this needle (or last stitch before marker), kfb - do a provisional CO of 15 new stitches on a third needle - then continue knitting these new sts in row 0. If you want to customize your mitts to have a shorter or longer shaft, you can adjust them here by provisionally casting on more or less stitches - just make sure that the total number of stitches (half of the thumb stitches plus the provisional CO) is a multiple of 4 plus 3. E.g., half of the thumb stitches are 32. 32 + 15 (pCO) = 47 - and 47 = 11x4 + 3.

Put the rest of the stitches on scrap yarn or on a stitch holder

First some "neutral rows" to place the stacked stitches on the back of your hands. These neutral rows are basically all stockinette - except for some garter sts at the edges to prevent rolling at the sides.
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 2 (RS): k all
Row 3 (WS): k5, p10, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k all
(Rows 3 and 4 are short rows added to make the wrist end of the mitts wider)
Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice more.

Now start the stacked stitches sequence:
Stacked Row 1 (WS): k all
Stacked Row 2 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Stacked Row 3 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change to Contrast Color
Stacked Row 4 (RS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 5 (WS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 6 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4
Stacked Row 7 (WS): k all
Stacked Row 8 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Stacked Row 9 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change back to Main Color
Stacked Row 10 (RS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 11 (WS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 12 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4

Now continue with neutral rows:
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 2 (RS): k all
Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times more, then knit some short rows at the wrist end.
Row 9 (WS): k5, p10, w+t
Row 10 (RS): k all
Row 11 = Row 1
Row 12 = Row 2

Repeat these rows until the glove fits around your hands.

Now prepare for joining the sides together with a three-needle bind-off.

Put the stitches from your scrap yarn/stitch holder on your 2nd needle as well as the stitches of the provsional CO.

After you have picked up the stitches from the scrap yarn and your provisional CO, you'll notice two gaps around the thumb (one on top of the thumb, the other at the transition to the shaft. To avoid holes in the finished piece you'll have to pick up a stitch from these gaps and put them on the needle. To do this you need to transfer the stitches to a new needle - and when you reach the gap, pick up the the horizontal piece of yarn between the two stitches with your left needle, and twist it (as in a mk1-sts). Now you have one stitch more which will help to avoid a hole. Do the same for with the last stitches of that row.

Now hold both needles together and do a kitchener stitch (grafting). Weave in ends.

 Differences for the 2nd Mitt

The second mitt must be knitted differently to mke it mirror inverted to the first. Here are the instructions for the 2nd mitt.

Knit the thumb part as for the 1st mitt.

Body

The basic difference is that for the neutral rows, WS and RS are switched, i.e. for mitt no. 1 your first comple body row is a WS row, while for the 2nd mitt, it's an RS row. This also means that the short rows (to widen the shaft) are knitted on the WS.

Row 0 (WS): do a provisional CO of 15 new stitches on a third needle and knit these stitches using your working yarn.

Row 1 (RS): k all
Row 2 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 3: (RS): k all
Row 4 (WS): k5, p to to last 5 sts, k5
Row 5 (RS): k15 w+t, k to end
Repeat rows 3 and 4 twice more

Then knit the stacked stiches sequence.

Continue knitting the same number of neutrals rows (including the same number of short rows) as for your first mitt.

Then move the thumb stitches from your scrap yarn to the 2nd needle as well as the stitches from the provisional CO (don't forget to pick up stitches around the thumb to avoid holes) and graft both sides together.

This post was featured at the Knitting Love Link Party #16 and at the Fiber Tuesday Linkparty #99. Thank you!

Trial and Error ... or the Right Yarn for the Right Pattern

I recently had a new idea for a knitting pattern - something modular again -  I'm really into modular knits these days. Since I had just bought three skeins of beautiful Bilum yarn (link to their Etsy shop) at SwissWulleFestival, I wanted to use it for this idea. However, after a few repeats it became clear, that the pattern wouldn't show up as I wanted it to do. So I frogged it. This pattern clearly needed something with a longer color gradient.

I intend to do a different kind of cowl with this lovely yarn - probably something with texture (bobbles or similar). But not now!

However, I really wanted a cowl in blue to match a new winter jacket I just bought. And since I am currently (far) away from my stash and from most of my scarfs and cowls, I went to a department store and searched for something appropriate.
I ended up buying variegated lace yarn (Merino Extrafine 285 by Schachenmayr, Ravelry link to the yarn) and tried again. I am happier with the look of it now, because the construction is more visible than before ... but I guess it could even be better with a Zauberball or something similar. But I guess I will finish it nonetheless - it feels lovely to the touch and I hope it will keep me warm.

Bauklötze Schal

Ein schönes Farbspiel mit graphischem Effekt - der ideale Schal für den Herbst. Dieser Schal ist (fast) nur kraus rechts gestrickt und daher einfach nachzustricken. Die einzelnen Elemente werden beim Stricken verbunden, d.h. es muss am Ende nichts speziell zusammengenäht werden - einzig die Fäden müssen vernäht werden.

 An english version of this pattern is available in this blogpost.

Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.

 

Material

• ca. 200 gr 12-fädiges Garn (ich habe Four Seasons Gründl Visione verwendet - hier der Link zum Garn auf Ravelry)
• 7 mm Nadeln
• eine Nähnadel, um die Enden zu vernähen

 

 

Techniken

• Gestrickter Maschenanschlag:  eine Methode um Maschen am Rand eines Strickstücks anzuschlagen, gezeigt hier im Video von Andrea "Maschenanschlag". 
• Stiche von der Seite des Strickstücks aufnehmen ("aufnehmen und abstricken"): Nadel in den oberen Querfaden des letzten Stiches der Reihe einführen (Fotos 1 und 2) und anschliessend den Arbeitsfaden durchziehen. In diesem Video von KnitPurlHunter wird nur der Aufnahmeteil gezeigt (das Abstricken erfolgt in der nächsten Reihe) - im Unterschied dazu werden die Maschen für diesen Schal direkt abgestrickt.

 

• Stiche von einer Abkettreihe aufnehmen und mit aktueller Reihe zusammenstricken: Nach dem Umdrehen des Strickstücks die linke Nadel von unten in die vordere Hälfte der abgeketteten Masche einführen (Foto 1); anschliessend diese "Masche" mit der ersten Masche auf der Nadel zusammenstricken. Diese Technik wird bei Rechteck B (ab dem zweiten Block) und Rechteck D (ab dem ersten Block) angewendet. 

 

Maschenprobe und Grösse
Kraus rechts gestrickt entsprechen etwa 13 Stiche 10 cm (Breite) und 7 Krausrippen (= 14 Reihen) etwa 5 cm (Höhe). Mein Schal ist etwa 22 cm breit und 186 cm lang (ich habe 8 Blöcke gestrickt).

 

Konstruktion

 

Das Bild rechts zeigt auf, wie der Schal zusammengesetzt ist. Er besteht aus übereinandergestapelten Blöcken, die jeweils aus 4 Rechtecken bestehen.

Jedes Rechteck ist 18 Stiche breit und 12 Krausrippen hoch. Die Rechtecke werden jeweils in der Reihenfolge A, B, C, D gestrickt. Die Rechtecke werden aneinander gestrickt - entweder durch Aufnehmen und Abstricken von Maschen am Rand eines anderen Rechtecks oder durch Aneinanderstricken mit der Abnehmkante eines anderen Rechtecks.

 

 

 

Anleitung

 

Block 1

 

Rechteck A

18 Maschen anschlangen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck B

5 Maschen anschlangen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag)

6 Maschen rechts stricken, dann am Rand von Rechteck 12 Maschen aufnehmen und abstricken (jetzt sollte es so aussehen, wie in Foto 1 und es sollten 18 Maschen auf der Nadel sein, 1 übrig von Rechteck A, 5 neu angeschlagene und 12 von der Seite aufgenommene)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck C

12 Maschen von der Seite des Rechtecks B aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - auch hier sollten 18 Maschen auf der Nadel sein (1 übrige vom Abketten von Rechteck B plus 12 an der Seite aufgenommene plus 5 neu angeschlagene)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

Rechteck D

12 Maschen von der Seite von Rechteck C aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - jetzt sieht es aus wie auf Foto 3.
Arbeit drehen.
Reihe 1: Am oberen Rand von Rechteck A vom Rand bis zur 12. abgeketteten Masche zählen (Foto 4), in diese 12. Masche einstechen und mit der ersten Masche auf der Nadel zusammenstricken. Rechts stricken bis zum Ende der Reihe
Reihe 2: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihe 3: in die nächste Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken; bis zum Ende rechte Maschen stricken
Reihe 4: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihen 3 und 4 noch 9 weitere Male stricken - nach einigen Reihen sollte das Strickstück wie auf Foto 4 aussehen.
Reihe 13: in die letzte Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken, dann diese Masche abketten, alle Stiche dieser Reihe abketten bis auf den letzten Stich

 

 

 

Block 2

 

Rechteck A

17 Stiche von der Seitkante des Rechtecks D und der oberen Kante des Rechtecks C aufnhmen (siehe Foto 6).

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck B

5 Maschen anschlangen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag)

6 Maschen rechts stricken, dann am Rand von Rechteck 12 Maschen aufnehmen und abstricken
Reihe 1: Die Arbeit drehen und in die erste freie Masche auf der Oberkante des Rechtecks C (des Blocks darunter) einstechen. Diese Masche mit der ersten Masche der Reihe zusammenstricken, die restlichen Maschen rechts stricken
Reihe 2: alle Maschen rechts stricken
Reihen 1 und 2 noch 10 mal wiederholen
Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.
 

Rechteck C

12 Maschen von der Seite des Rechtecks B aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - auch hier sollten 18 Maschen auf der Nadel sein (1 übrige vom Abketten von Rechteck B plus 12 an der Seite aufgenommene plus 5 neu angeschlagene)

22 Reihen kraus rechts stricken (alle Stiche der Reihe rechts abstricken)

Letzte Reihe: Alle Stiche abketten ausser dem letzten Stich.

 

Rechteck D

12 Maschen von der Seite von Rechteck C aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend weitere 5 Maschen anschlagen (mit gestricktem Maschenanschlag) - jetzt sieht es aus wie auf Foto 3.
Arbeit drehen.
Reihe 1: Am oberen Rand von Rechteck A vom Rand bis zur 12. abgeketteten Masche zählen (Foto 4), in diese 12. Masche einstechen und mit der ersten Masche auf der Nadel zusammenstricken. Rechts stricken bis zum Ende der Reihe
Reihe 2: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihe 3: in die nächste Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken; bis zum Ende rechte Maschen stricken
Reihe 4: alle Maschen rechts stricken.
Reihen 3 und 4 noch 9 weitere Male stricken - nach einigen Reihen sollte das Strickstück wie auf Foto 4 aussehen.
Reihe 13: in die letzte Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken, dann diese Masche abketten, alle Stiche dieser Reihe abketten bis auf den letzten Stich

  

Block 2 wiederholen bis der Schal lang genug ist.

Die letzte Reihe des Rechtecks D des letzten Blocks wie folgt stricken:

 

Reihe 13: in die letzte Masche am oberen Rand von Rechteck A einstechen, erste Masche auf der Nadel mit dieser zusammenstricken, dann diese Masche abketten, alle Stiche dieser Reihe abketten.

 

Enden vernähen und vorsichtig spannen.

 

 

Bauklötze Scarf

Do you want a fun accessory that's perfect for autumn - here's the pattern for you: a scarf with an interesting graphic effect, that is great for variegated yarn. It is very easy to knit - basically garter stitch only - except for the stitches connecting one piece to another. Joined as you go, so no sewing pieces in the end. The only finishing techniques you need, is weaving in your ends.

As usual, I had some difficulties in finding a name for this scarf - so again I asked the members of knittingparadise.com for suggestions (here's the link to the thread), I loved some of the suggestions but in the end I decided to go for the bricks theme (suggested several times) - but I used a different language :) - "Bauklötze" is the German word for building bricks or toy bricks.

 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

German Version: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es in diesem Blogbeitrag.

 

Materials

• about 200 grams of bulky yarn
• 7mm needles (straight or circular)
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

 

 

Techniques

• Knitted CO: a method to cast on stitches at the end of a row, as shown in this video by VeryPinkKnits.
• Pickup and knit stitches (from side): insert the right hand needle into the upper bump of the last stitch of the row (photos 1 and 2), and draw your yarn through the loop (photos 3 and 4)

 

• Pick up and connect (with a bind-off row): When you've turned your piece insert the left hand needle from below into the front leg of the bind off stitch (photo 1), then - as if to k2tog - insert the left hand needle into the first stitch on the needle and into the leg of the bind off stitch (photo 2) and draw your yarn through both loops (photo 3). In the pattern this sequence will be called (k2tog-connect).

 

Gauge and Measurements

In garter stitch, about 13 stitches equal 10 cm in width - and 7 ridges (14 rows) equal 5 cm in height. My finished scarf (unblocked) is about 22 cm wide and 186 long (I knitted 8 blocks).

 

General Construction

 

The picture on the right shows the general construction of this scarf. It consists of a number of blocks that in turn consists of 4 rectangles.

 

Each rectangle is 18 stitches wide and 12 garter stitch ridges high. For each block the rectangles are knit in the sequence A, B, C, D. The rectangles are connected to each other

• either by picking up and knitting stitches from the side or top of the last rectangle
• or by picking up and connecting with stitches from a bind-off.

 

Instructions

 

Block 1

 

Rectangle A

CO 18 (with knitted CO)

Knit 11 ridges of garter stitch (knit all stitches)

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle B

CO5 (with knitted CO)

Knit 6, pick up and knit 12 sts from the side of rectangle A (your piece should now look similar to photo 1)

Knit 11 ridges of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle C

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle B, CO5 (with knitted CO) (your piece should now look similar to photo 2)

Knit 11 rigdes of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

Rectangle D

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle C, CO5 (with knitted CO) (your piece should now look similar to photo 3)

Row 1: k2tog-connect, k to end (connect your first row to the 12th stitch of rectangle A counted from the left hand edge of the piece, see photo 4)

Row 2: k all

Repeat rows 1 and 2 ten more times - after a few rows your piece should look similar to photo 4

Row 13: k2tog-connect, BO all except last stitch 

 

 

 

Block 2

 

Rectangle A

Pick up and knit 17 stitches from rectangles D and C of the block below

Knit 11 ridges of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle B

CO5 (with knitted CO)

Knit 6, pick up and knit 12 from rectangle A
Row 1: k2tog-connect to BO of rectangle C of block below, k to end (start to connect right next to the last picked up stitch from rectangle A, i.e. don't leave a gap)
Row 2: k all

Repeat rows 1 and 2 ten more times

Last row: BO all except last stitch

  

Rectangle C = Rectangle C of block 1

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle B, CO5 (with knitted CO)

Knit 11 rigdes of garter stitch

Last row: BO all except last stitch

 

Rectangle D = Rectangle D of block 1

Pick up and knit 12 stitches from the side of rectangle C, CO5 (with knitted CO) (your piece should now look similar to photo 3)

Row 1: k2tog-connect, k to end (connect your first row to the 12th stitch counted of rectangle A from the left hand side edge of the piece)

Row 2: k all

Repeat rows 1 and 2 ten more times

Row 13: k2tog-connect, BO all except last stitch 

 

Repeat block 2 until your scarf is as long as you want it.

 

In the last block change row 13 of rectangle D as follows:

Row 13: k2tog-connect, BO all

 

I knitted a total of 8 rectangles.

 

Weave in ends and block lightly.

 

Patchwork Cowl

As the days get colder and greyer, knit yourself this lovely and colourful cowl. It is knitted flat and all in garter stitch. Due to its unique construction it brings out the best of your variegated yarn, e.g. your Zauberball or your Noro yarn. It is basically a variation of an entrelac pattern, but with blocks (squares and rectangles) of different sizes.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 200 grams of fingering weight yarn - preferably variegated yarn
• 3.25mm needles (straight or circulars) 
• a third needle (for three-needle BO)
• a tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techniques and Stitches

• Knitted Cast On: https://youtu.be/xocjmpglM1Q
• Pick up and knit:  https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Join stitches at the edge - as in entrelac: k2tog of the following stitch with the next stich of the underlying rectangle/square. A similar method (but with an ssk instead of an k2tog) is shown in this YouTube video. I will call this stitch k2tog-join in the pattern.
• Pick up stitches (without knitting them): https://youtu.be/7c5IzAE_hn8
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0

Construction

Figure X shows the general construction of the cowl. It is knitted flat and connected in the end (i.e. after the last layer or connected while knitting the last layer).

Figure 1: General Construction

Figure 2 shows how the layers make up the cowl. Odd-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 rectangles that are 8 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 rectangles that are 16 stitches wide and 16 ridges high. Even-numbered layers consist of rectangles: 3 that are 16 stitches wide and 8 ridges high, and 2 that are 8 stitches wide and 16 ridges high.

Rectangles/squares from one layer are knitted at a 90 degree angle to the knitting direction of the layer below.

Figure 2: Layers

In even numbered layers, rectangle 1 connects to square 5 of the layer below, rectangle 2 uses stitches picked up from square 5 of the layer below as base and is connected at the side to square of of the layer below, rectangle 3 is based on picked up stitches from the side of square 4 of the layer below and is connected to square 3 of the layer below ... and so on.

In layer 3 and the following odd numbered layers, square 1 is based on stitches from the side of rectangle 5 of the layer below and connected at the side to rectangle 4 of the layer below, and so on. The last square of an odd numbered layer is based on the stitches from rectangle 1 of the layer below and not connected while knitting it.

Instructions

Layer 1

Square 1 

CO8 stitches with knitted CO

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 2

CO 16 stitches with knitted CO (your piece should look as shown in photo 1 of picture A)

Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

Square 3 (=  Square 1)

CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Square 4 (= Square 2)

CO 16 stitches with knitted CO 

Rows 1-32: sl1, k15

(Now your piece should look similar to photo 1 of picture A)

Square 5 (= Square 1)

CO8 stitches (with knitted CO)

Rows 1-16: sl1, k7

Layer 2

Rectangle 1

CO15 with knitted CO (your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture A)

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k to end, turn

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join

Row 4: sl1, k to end, turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times

Row 15: sl1 k14, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 2

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k7, turn

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 3

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k15, turn

Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k15 turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) more times

Row 15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 4

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k7, turn

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Row 31: sl1, k6, k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Rectangle 5

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

Row 1: sl1, k15, turn

Row 2: sl1, k14, k2tog-join, (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k15 turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six more times

Row  15: sl1, k14,  k2tog-join

Row 16: BO15 stitches



Picture A: Illustrations for Layers 1 and 2

Layer 3

Square 1

Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 5 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles

Row 2: sl1, k to end

Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 4 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 six (6) times

Row 15: sl1, k to end

Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 2

Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 4 of the layer below, TURN

Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) times

Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 3 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 3

Row 1: pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of the last rectangle (rectangle 3 of layer below), you have now 8 stitches on your needles

Row 2: sl1, k7, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 2 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3  six (6) times

Row 15: sl1, k to end

Row 16: sl1, k6 k2tog-join, DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

  

Square 4

Row 1: pick up and knit 16 stitches from the side of rectangle 2 of the layer below, TURN

Row 2: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 3: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with next stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below)

Repeat rows 2 and 3  fourteen (14) times

Row 31: sl1, k15, TURN

Row 32: sl1, k14, k2tog-join (with last stitch from rectangle 1 of layer below), DO NOT TURN but go on in the same direction

Square 5

Row 1: pick up and knit 8 stitches from side of rectangle 1 of layer below

Rows 2-15: sl1, k7

DO NOT TURN but go on knitted CO of next layer

Repeat Layers 2 and 3 until the piece is roughly as long as you want it. Make sure to end with a layer 3.

 

Picture B: Illustrations for Last Layer

Last Layer

The last layer is basically the same as layer 2 with connections to the very first layer. This requires connecting the very first CO and connecting to the last knitted layer at the same time which can feel a bit awkward ... if you want to avoid this, you can just knit one more layer 2 and then sew the edges together.

However, here's how to do it without sewing.

Fold the scarf in a way so that the first layer faces the last layer with a gap about one layer wide (see photo 1 of picture B)

Rectangle 1

CO15 with knitted CO

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 5 of the very first layer.

Rectangle 1 will not only be connected to the last layer but also to these stitches picked up from the first layer. See photo 2 in picture B.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 5 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 5 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 5 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times

Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 4 of layer 1.

Your piece should now look like photo 3 of picture B

Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle. (See photo 4 of picture B)

Rectangle 2

Pick up and knit 8 stitches (from the side of square 4 of the layer below)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 4 of layer 1).

Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 4 of the layer below and square 4 of the first layer.

See photo 5 of picture B.

Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 4 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 4 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle

With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 3 of layer 1.

Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 3

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 3 of the very first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 3 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 3 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 3 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 six (6) more times.

Now you have 18 stitches left (16 from this rectangle and 2 from the squares of other layers). Transfer these stitches to one needle (-> working needle)

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the side of square 2 of layer 1.

Row 15: do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 4

Pick up and knit 8 stitches

With the third needle pick up 16 stitches from the CO of square 2 of layer 1). See photo 6 of picture B.

Rectangle 2 will be connected to square 2 of the layer below and square 2 of the first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)

Row 2: sl1, k6, k2tog-join (last stitch of the picked up stitches and next stitch of square 2 of layer below), turn

Row 3: sl1, k7, k2tog-join (with square 2 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 fourteen (14) more times.

Now you have 10 stitches left (8 from this rectangle and two from the adjoining squares). Transfer these to one needle

With third needle pick up 8 stitches from the side of square 1 of layer 1.

Row 31:  do a three-needle BO of these stitches on these to needles - while doing a k2tog of the first and last stitch on the working needle.

Rectangle 5

Pick up and knit 16 stitches

With a third needle pick up 7 stitches from the CO of square 1 of the very first layer.

Row 1: sl1, k14 (newly CO stitch), k1 (last stitch of square 1 of layer below), turn

Row 2: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with first stitch picked up of side of square 1 of layer 1)

Row 3: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer below)

Row 4: sl1, k 14, k2tog-join (with next stitch of square 1 of layer 1)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 seven (7) more times.

Row 18: BO all stitches  

Weave in ends and block gently.



This blogpost was featured at Be A Crafter Craft Along Link Party #148, Oui Crochet's Fiber Tuesday Linkparty #82 and at Knitting Love Link Party #15 by Underground Crafter. Thank you!

Zauberball Tiling

Recently, when I thought again about what to do with my two skeins of Zauberball Fuchsienbeet. I had them lying around since I tried something with them last year which didn't exactly work out.

This time I wanted to try a (sort of) entrelac pattern, but with different sized patches. Even though the colors don't distribute as evenly as I would like them to, I really like how it looks. The pattern reminds me of parquetry or tiling.