O Christmas Tree

Christmas is drawing nearer and nearer. Unfortunately, this year it's quite difficult for me to get into a christmas mood. That's why I tried to create my own knitted decorations christmas decorations.

Here's the result: a small and fun pattern for a little christmas tree in two sizes. One tree only takes up about 10 to 15 grams of yarn, so it's great for using up some leftover green yarn. 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• per tree I used about 10 to 14 grams of very (!) old green yarn in my stash; I guess it was DK or sports weight yarn
• knitting needle that's a bit smaller than the size the yarn calls for; I used 2.5mm needles
• a third needle for a three-needle bind off
• scrap yarn for the provisional cast on
• a crochet hook for provisional cast on

Techniques and Special Abbreviations

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short rows with wrap and turn ("w+t"): https://youtu.be/G4GxFvi4KD0
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Small "Bobble": I used the following method to knit a small bobble: right in the middle of the row (where the pattern asks you to knit a bobble) CO4 with knitted CO (or cable CO), then directly bind off 4 stitches and go on knitting the row. In the instructions the word "bobble" will be used (here's how to do a knitted CO: https://youtu.be/bTgT7kE1c_k)

Instructions

Bigger Tree

Provisionally CO 30 sts and knit the first row with your working yarn
Ridge 1: sl1, k10, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2: sl1, k4, bobble, k10, bobble, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k16, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4: sl1, k8, bobble, k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5: sl1, k13, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6: sl1, k3, bobble, k7, bobble, k15, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7: sl1, k10, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8: sl1, k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9: sl1, k7, bobble, k6, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10: sl1, k6, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11: sl1, k22, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12: sl1, k5, bobble, k2, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13: sl1, k17, bobble, k to end; turn; sl1, k to end
Repeat rows 1 to 13 twice more.

Now your piece should look similar to the one in the picture on the right.

Finishing
Put the stitches from the provisional CO on a knitting needle. Hold the piece rights sides together and do a three needle bind off.
Afterwards, turn the piece right sides out. Use a pen or something similar to get into the top.
If the yarn you used was really soft, you might want to stabilize the tree. You can do this by cutting out a piece of paper or soft cardboard in the shape of a 90° pizza slice (similar to the tree before the three needle BO) and insert it into the tree.
The yarn I used was stiff enough that there wasn't any need for stabilization.

Smaller Tree

Provisionally CO 24 sts and knit the first row with your working yarn
Ridge 1: sl1, k20, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2: sl1, k3, bobble, k8, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k16, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4: sl1, k5, bobble, k4, bobble, k3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5: sl1, k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6: sl1, k11, bobble, k2, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7: sl1, k10, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8: sl1, k4, bobble, k12, bobble, k to end; turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 9, sl1, k8, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10: sl1, k6, bobble, k5, bobble, k5, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11: sl1, k6, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12: sl1 k to end; turn, s1, k to end
Repeat rows 1 to 13 twice more.

Finishing
Put the stitches from the provisional CO on a knitting needle. Hold the piece rights sides together and do a three needle bind off.
Afterwards, turn the piece right sides out. Use a pen or something similar to get into the top.
If the yarn you used was really soft, you might want to stabilize the tree. You can do this by cutting out a piece of paper or soft cardboard in the shape of a 90° pizza slice (similar to the tree before the three needle BO) and insert it into the tree.

This blogpost was featured at the Handmade Monday Link Party No. 5. Thank you!

Sparkler Mitts auf Deutsch

Heike von Heikeshaekellust (eifelgirl1 auf Ravelry) hat sich die Mühe gemacht, die Häkel-Anleitung für die Sparkler Mitts ins Deutsche zu übersetzen. Vielen lieben Dank dafür!
(Edit 03.10.2021: Update des Links auf die PDF-Datei, da sich offenbar die Links auf GoogleDrive geändert hatten.)

Die Anleitung findet sich hier als PDF-Datei.

The original english version of this free crochet pattern is available in this blogpost.

Attempt at Intarsia

Usually I'm not very good at knitting intarsia. I have two patterns on my blog that use this technique (Xmas Star Mitts and Cordillera Scarf), but it's not exactly my speciality.

That's why I was really surprised, when a photo of this attempt of an intarsia cowl got a huge amounts of likes on my Instagram account. To be honest, before it got this attention, I wasn't even sure whether I would go on knitting it or whether I would frog it ... But now, I guess I will finish it (and later publish the pattern). At least it's good practice for colorwork knitting and it's fun to knit :)

U-Turn Mitts - Gratis Haakpatroon

Now available: a Dutch translation of the U-Turn Mitts. Thank you so much, sannemethorst (Ravelry user name).

Edit: 28.09.2021: updated PDF pattern link - somehow google seems to have changed the links on GoogleDrive so the old links weren't working anymore)

The original English version is available in this blogpost.

Burgdorf Rundschal

Garne mit langem Farbverlauf eignen sich besonders gut für modulares Stricken, d.h. für Strickstücke, die sich aus mehreren geometrischen Formen zusammensetzen - so auch für diesen Rundschal, der sich aus gestrickten Trapezen zusammensetzt.

 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Die englische Version dieser Anleitung findet sich hier.
An english version of this pattern can be found in this blogpost.

Material

• ca.100 gramm Lace Garn - Ich habe Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 285 verwendet
• 3.25mm Nadeln - ich habe eine lange Rundstricknadel verwendet, man kann aber auch gerade Nadeln verwenden, hierbei ist es aber bequemer wenn man eine dritte Nadel hat, da man jeweils rechtwinklig zur Arbeit Maschen aufnimmt
• einen Maschenmarkierer
• Garnrest (für den provisorischen Maschenanschlag)
• eine Nähnadel für den Maschenstich

Techniken

• Provisorischer Maschenanschlag: mein persönlicher Favorit für den provisorischen Maschenanschlag ist die gehäkelte Methode - dieser wird in diesem Youtube Video von New Stitch a Day gezeigt (Video auf Englisch).
• Stiche von der Seite aufnehmen und abstricken: https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Stiche von der Seite aufnehmen, ohne sie abzustricken: https://youtu.be/7c5IzAE_hn8
• Maschenstich kraus rechts: https://vimeo.com/50438595 (Video von Martina Behm)
• ssk (nach links geneigt abnehmen): ssk steht für "slip slip knit" (eine passende deutsche Abkürzung habe ich noch nicht gefunden), d.h. eine Masche wie zum rechts stricken abheben, die zweite Masche auch wie zum rechts stricken abheben, dann mit der linken Nadel in beide abgehobenen Maschen einstechen und sie zusammen abstricken - hier ein Video dazu von Drops Garnstudio.

Maschenprobe und Grösse

Kraus rechts gestrickt ergaben sich bei mir 13 Stiche auf 5 cm Breite und 24 Reihen auf 5 cm Höhe.
Ich mag es am liebsten, wenn ich Rundschals zweimal um den Hals legen kann, daher habe ich instgesamt 24 Trapeze gestrickt. Der Schal war 22 cm breit und hatte einen Umfang von 120 cm, und ich habe 100 gr Lace-Garn verstrickt.

Konstruktion
Die Zeichnung unten zeigt, wie der Schal konstruiert ist. Er besteht aus trapezförmigen Modulen, die rechtwinklig ineinandergreifen. Am oberen Ende des Schals wird das letzte Trapez mit dem zweiten Trapez verbunden und das vorletzte mit dem zu allerst gestrickten.

 

Auf dem Bild auf der rechten Seite sieht man, wie die Trapeze übereinander liegen. Trapez 2 liegt rechtwinklig auf der kürzeren Schenkelseite von Trapez 1. Von dieser Seite werden Stiche aufgenommen und abgestrickt - dazu kommen die restlichen Stiche des provisorischen Maschenanschlags.
Trapez 3 liegt wiederum rechtwinklig auf Trapez 2. Hierfür werden Stiche von der Schenkelseite von Trapez 2 aufgenommen und abgestrickt - hinzu kommen die restlichen Stiche von Trapez 1.
Jedes weitere Trapez liegt rechtwinklig auf dem vorherigen auf - d.h. es werden Stiche von der kurzen Schenkelseite aufgenommen - und es verwendet die restlichen Stiche vom vorletzten Trapez.
 

 

Anleitung

Provisorischer Maschenanschlag von 80 Maschen, d.h. 80 Maschen mit Garnrest auf die Nadel aufhäkeln.

Davon 30 Maschen auf die rechte Nadel nehmen (ohne sie mit dem Arbeitsgarn abzustricken - diese Stiche werden erst wieder für Trapez 2 benötigt), dann einen Maschenmarkierer setzen, und die restlichen 50 Stiche normal abstricken (mit Arbeitsgarn)


Trapez 1
R1: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R2: erste Masche wie zum links stricken abheben, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R3: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihen 2 und 3 noch 18 weitere Male stricken.
Die letzte Reihe bestand aus 30 Maschen - diese werden erst wieder für Trapez 3 benötigt.
Das Strickstück sollte jetzt etwa wie in Foto 1 aussehen.

Trapez 2
R1: den Maschenmarkierer platzieren, dann 20 Stiche von der kurzen Seite (Kettrand) von Trapez 1 aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend die restlichen 30 Stiche vom provisorischen Maschenanschlag abstricken. Nun sollten zwischen Maschenmarkierer und Ende wieder 50 Stiche sein und das Strickstück sollte ähnlich wie in Foto 2 aussehen.
R2: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R3: erste Masche wie zum links stricken abheben, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R4: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihen 3 und 4 noch 18 weitere Male stricken. Jetzt sollten zwischen dem Ende der Reihe und dem Maschenmarkierer noch 30 "aktive" Stiche von Trapez zwei sein. Diese werden für das nächste Trapez stillgelegt und erst im übernächsten wieder verwendet.

Trapez 3
R1: den Maschenmarkierer platzieren, dann 20 Stiche von der kurzen Seite von Trapez 1 aufnehmen und abstricken, anschliessend die restlichen 30 Stiche vom provisorischen Maschenanschlag abstricken. Zwischen Maschenmarkierer und dem Ende der Reihe sollten jetzt 50 Stiche sein. Das Strickstück sollte ähnlich aussehen wie auf Foto 3 gezeigt.
R2: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R3: erste Masche wie zum links stricken abheben, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
R4: ssk, bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Die Reihen 3 und 4 noch 18 weitere Male wiederholen (nach einigen Wiederholungen sollte das Strickstück ähnlich aussehen wie auf Foto 4) - nach den Wiederholungen befinden sich 30 "aktive" Stiche zwischen dem Maschenmarkierer und dem Ende der Reihe - diese Stiche werden für das nächste Trapez stillgelegt und erst wieder im übernächsten Trapez gestrickt.
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Trapez 4 = Trapez 3

Trapeze 3 und 4 so lange wiederholen bis das Strickstück die gewünschte Länge hat.
Für den Rundschal auf den Fotos habe ich insgesamt 24 Trapeze gestrickt. Dies gab eine Länge, die bequem 2x um den Hals passt.

Das Garn abschneiden, aber einen genügend langen Rest dran lassen, um 30 Stiche (Maschenstich) zu stricken.

Die Stiche vom provisorischen Maschenstich auf eine Nadel nehmen (ich hatte keine zweite 3.25mm-Nadel, daher habe ich eine etwas kleinere genommen (3mm) - das geht auch.

Zur Orientierung ist es hilfreich, dabei einen Maschenmarkierer zwischen die beiden ersten Trapeze zu setzen (d.h. unter dem allerersten Trapez befinden sich 50 Stiche, unter dem zweiten 30).

Nun das zuletzt gestrickte Trapez mit dem zweiten zusammenhalten (siehe Foto 5) und mit Maschenstich verbinden - hierzu das Garn verwenden, dass am Ende des Strickens übriggelassen wurde.

Von der Seite (Kettrand) des letzten Trapezes 20 Stiche aufnehmen, aber dabei nicht abstricken. Zusammen mit den restlichen Stiches des vorletzten Trapezes sind jetzt 50 Maschen auf dieser Nadel. Diese mit dem unteren Rand des allerersten Trapezes zusammenhalten (siehe Foto 6) und mit Maschenstich verbinden.

Die Enden vernähen und vorsichtig aufspannen.

Burgdorf Cowl

Modular knitting is always great to show off yarn with a longer color gradient. This cowl makes no exception. It is knitted flat in trapezoids at right angles to each other. When it's long enough it is  worked into a cowl by grafting.

This cowl is named after the lovely town of Burgdorf in Switzerland where I spend a wonderful time at a friend's place. It's where knitted this cowl.
 

 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

A German version of this pattern is available in this blogpost.
Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.
 

Materials

• about 100 grams of lace weight yarn - I used Schachenmayr Merino Extrafine 285
• 3.25mm needles - I recommend long circulars, you can use straight needles as well, but you might need 3 needles at times (e.g. when you pick up stitches to start a new trapezoid or when you graft the ends together at the end); I used rather short circulars
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• one stitch marker
• a tapestry needle for grafting and for weaving in ends

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Picking up stitches from the side and knitting them (pick up and knit): https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Picking up stitches without working yarn (pick up):  https://youtu.be/7c5IzAE_hn8
  For the difference between pick up and knit vs. pick up see this blogpost by SPINNITY KNITS.
• Grafting in garter stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Gauge and Size

When knitting in garter stitch 13 stitches gave 5 cm in width, and 12 garter stitch ridges (i.e. 24 rows) 5 cm in height.

I knitted a total of 24 trapezoids (using up my 100 grams of lace weight yarn). After blocking my cowl measured 22 cm in width and 120 cm in circumference.


Construction

The picture below shows the general construction. The cowl is made from modules in trapezoid shape that build on each other. In the end the upper edge of the last trapezoid is grafted to the lower edge of the 2nd one - and the lower edge of the very first trapezoid is grafted to the upper edge of the one but last trapezoid plus a few picked up stitches.

The picture to the right shows how the first trapezoid sections fit together. Trapezoid 2 is knitted at right angles to trapezoid 1 (picking up stitches from trapezoid 1). Trapezoid 3 is knitted on top of trapezoid 1, using the leftover stitches from trapezoid 1 and stitches picked up from the side of trapezoid 2. Trapezoid 4 in turn is knitted at right angles to trapezoid 3, using stitches picked up from the side trapezoid 3 and the leftover stitches from trapezoid 2. And so on ...

 

Instructions

PCO 80 with scrap yarn
Slip 30 sts, place marker, k50 with working yarn


Trapezoid 1
R1: ssk, k to m
R2: sl1, k to end
R3: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 2 and 3 18 more times
There are now 30 stitches with working yarn on your needles - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid
Your piece should now look like in photo 1.

Trapezoid 2
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of trapezoid 1, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the provisional CO -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. Your piece should look like in photo 2.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for trapezoid 2 - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid

Trapezoid 3
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of the last trapezoid, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the last but one trapezoid  -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. The upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 3.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Trapezoid 4
R1: place marker and pick up and knit 20 stitches from the slip stitch edge of the last trapezoid, then go on and knit the 30 sts left of the last but one trapezoid  -> between your stitch marker and the end there are now 50 stitches. The upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 3.
R2: ssk, k to m
R3: sl1, k to end
R4: ssk, k to m
Repeat rows 3 and 4, 18 more times (after a few times the upper edge of your piece should look similar to photo 4) -> there are now 30 "active" stitches for this trapezoid - these stitches will not be knitted during the next trapezoid.

Repeat trapezoids 3 and 4 until your cowl has the desired length.
I knitted a total of 24 trapezoids since I prefer my cowls to be double-length, i.e. I like them to fit at least twice around my neck.

Cut yarn and leave long tail (enough to graft 30 stitches)

Put stitches from pCO on a new knitting needle (since I didn't have another 3.25mm needle – I used a slightly smaller one (3mm)). For orientation you might want to place a marker between the two first trapezoids (i.e. there will be 50 stitches for the very first trapezoid and 30 stitches for the 2nd).

Hold the last trapezoid you knitted and the 2nd trapezoid together (see photo 5) and graft together in garter stitch (30 sts) with the tail you left after knitting the last trapezoid.

From the side of the last trapezoid pick up 20 sts (please note that this is not pick up and knit). Combined with the stitches of the one but last trapezoid you now have 50 stitches on that needle.
Hold these stitches together with the provisional CO of the very first trapezoid (see photo 6) and graft in garter stitch.

Block gently.

Stack Overflow Mitts

Usually, when I knit a cowl or a scarf, I plan to knit a matching pair of (fingerless) gloves - or when I knit a pair of gloves, I plan to knit a matching cowl. Usually, this never gets beyond the planning phase ... And even though I have lots of scarfs/cowls and lots of pairs of fingerless gloves they seldom match.

So I am quite proud that this time I actually managed to knit a matching set - and not only in terms of the yarn I used, but also as concerns the stitch technique. In March I published a pattern for a cowl with stacked stitches - called the Stack Overflow Cowl. Even though it's made from quite cheap sock yarn, I love to wear it. And since there was yarn left, I decided to design a pair of fingerless gloves with stacked stitches as a decorative element; the construction is based on my Strata Fingerless Gloves (published last year).

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials

• a total of about 35 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors - about 25 grams of your Main Color and 10 grams of your Contrast Color.
• 3.25mm needles (circulars or dpns for the thumb and straights or circulars for the body part)
• scrap yarn for the  provisional CO
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• tapestry needle to graft and to weave in ends

Special Stitches and Techniques

• kyok = k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch
• SB = slip back the number of sts to the left hand needle
• inc1-9 = [kyok, SB2] 3 times, kyok, k3
  This is called stacked increase. A YouTube video that shows how to make stacked increases can be found on So, I make stuff's YouTube channel
• dec9-1 = k3, s1, k2tog, psso, SB1, k2tog, pass next st over, SB1 2 times, k2tog, pass next st over. This is called stacked decrease. Also from So, I make stuff's YouTube channel here's a video that shows how to do stacked decreases.
• BBO = backwards bind off: insert the left hand needle into the last 2 sts and knit together, alternatively you can turn your work: do a p2tog and slip the last st back on the left hand needle
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short Rows with Wrap and Turn (w+t): In this pattern short rows are used to shape the mitt, i.e. to make it a bit wider at the bottom edge. The pattern is written with "wrap and turn"-short rows (see this YouTube Video by Very Pink Knits and this YouTube Video to show how to pick up wraps on the purl side by knitfreedom.com) - however, any method that you like works as well. 
• Grafting Stockinette Stitch / Kitchener Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Basic Construction
The schematic below shows the construction of these mitts. The mitts are started at the thumb (1) which is knitted in the round. Then an increasing oval shape is knitted (2) - half of the stitches of the oval are put on a stitch holder to be used later. At one end of the oval a provisional CO is added, to give length to the shaft of the mitts.
The main body part (3) is knitted flat - first a few stockinette rows - followed by a stacked stitch pattern to decorate the back of your hand and then stockinette stitch again to cover the palm. The last row is attached to the provisional CO and the stitches from the stitch holder by means of a three needle BO.
Photos of the mitt in construction can be found in this blogpost (the pattern for Strata Fingerless Gloves).

Gauge / Measurements
Since the pattern uses different stitches on the back and palm side of the mitts, they are slightly lopsided. The finished mitts measure 18 cm in length on the palm side - and 21 cm on the back of the hands. They measure about 19 cm in  circumference at the wrist end, and about 17 cm at the top end. However, the width (circumference) can easily be adapted to fit your hand size.
When knitting in stockinette stitch 12 sts equalled 5 cm in width and 16 rows equalled 5 cm in height.

Instructions

Thumb
With your Main Color CO18
Rounds 1-10: *p1 k1 p1, repeat from *
Round 11: *p1 k1 p1 mk1, repeat from *
Rounds 12-15: *p1 k1, repeat from *

In row 15 either place two markers (one at the beginning of the round - the other at the middle of the row (i.e. after 12 sts)) or use the magic loop technique and distribute the stitches evenly on the front and back needle (12 sts each).

Rounds 16  and 17: * kfb, k to last stitch of this needle (or last stitch before marker), kfb, repeat from *
Rounds 18 to 21: *kfb, kfb,  k to last 2 sts of this needle (or last 2 sts before marker), kfb, kfb, repeat from *

After round 21 you should have a total of 64 sts on your needles - these stitches now form an oval shape. For the body part only one side of this oval will be used.

Body
Row 0 (RS): kfb, knit to last stitch on this needle (or last stitch before marker), kfb - do a provisional CO of 15 new stitches on a third needle - then continue knitting these new sts in row 0. If you want to customize your mitts to have a shorter or longer shaft, you can adjust them here by provisionally casting on more or less stitches - just make sure that the total number of stitches (half of the thumb stitches plus the provisional CO) is a multiple of 4 plus 3. E.g., half of the thumb stitches are 32. 32 + 15 (pCO) = 47 - and 47 = 11x4 + 3.

Put the rest of the stitches on scrap yarn or on a stitch holder

First some "neutral rows" to place the stacked stitches on the back of your hands. These neutral rows are basically all stockinette - except for some garter sts at the edges to prevent rolling at the sides.
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 2 (RS): k all
Row 3 (WS): k5, p10, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k all
(Rows 3 and 4 are short rows added to make the wrist end of the mitts wider)
Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice more.

Now start the stacked stitches sequence:
Stacked Row 1 (WS): k all
Stacked Row 2 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Stacked Row 3 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change to Contrast Color
Stacked Row 4 (RS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 5 (WS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 6 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4
Stacked Row 7 (WS): k all
Stacked Row 8 (RS):  k1 * inc1-9, k3 repeat from * until there are only two stitches stitch left, inc1-9, k1
Stacked Row 9 (WS): * k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk k1 repeat from * until there are only 11 sts left, k2tog k2 kfb k1 kfb k2 ssk
Change back to Main Color
Stacked Row 10 (RS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 11 (WS) = Stacked Row 3
Stacked Row 12 (RS): BO4 (and carry up yarn from other color), k2, * dec9-1, k3 repeat from * until there are only 4 sts left, BBO4

Now continue with neutral rows:
Row 1 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 2 (RS): k all
Repeat rows 1 and 2 three times more, then knit some short rows at the wrist end.
Row 9 (WS): k5, p10, w+t
Row 10 (RS): k all
Row 11 = Row 1
Row 12 = Row 2

Repeat these rows until the glove fits around your hands.

Now prepare for joining the sides together with a three-needle bind-off.

Put the stitches from your scrap yarn/stitch holder on your 2nd needle as well as the stitches of the provsional CO.

After you have picked up the stitches from the scrap yarn and your provisional CO, you'll notice two gaps around the thumb (one on top of the thumb, the other at the transition to the shaft. To avoid holes in the finished piece you'll have to pick up a stitch from these gaps and put them on the needle. To do this you need to transfer the stitches to a new needle - and when you reach the gap, pick up the the horizontal piece of yarn between the two stitches with your left needle, and twist it (as in a mk1-sts). Now you have one stitch more which will help to avoid a hole. Do the same for with the last stitches of that row.

Now hold both needles together and do a kitchener stitch (grafting). Weave in ends.

 Differences for the 2nd Mitt

The second mitt must be knitted differently to mke it mirror inverted to the first. Here are the instructions for the 2nd mitt.

Knit the thumb part as for the 1st mitt.

Body

The basic difference is that for the neutral rows, WS and RS are switched, i.e. for mitt no. 1 your first comple body row is a WS row, while for the 2nd mitt, it's an RS row. This also means that the short rows (to widen the shaft) are knitted on the WS.

Row 0 (WS): do a provisional CO of 15 new stitches on a third needle and knit these stitches using your working yarn.

Row 1 (RS): k all
Row 2 (WS): k5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 3: (RS): k all
Row 4 (WS): k5, p to to last 5 sts, k5
Row 5 (RS): k15 w+t, k to end
Repeat rows 3 and 4 twice more

Then knit the stacked stiches sequence.

Continue knitting the same number of neutrals rows (including the same number of short rows) as for your first mitt.

Then move the thumb stitches from your scrap yarn to the 2nd needle as well as the stitches from the provisional CO (don't forget to pick up stitches around the thumb to avoid holes) and graft both sides together.

This post was featured at the Knitting Love Link Party #16 and at the Fiber Tuesday Linkparty #99. Thank you!