Unfinished Business

I haven't posted much lately ... this is partly due to the fact that I have started a new job (in real life and totally unrelated to knitting), but partly my own fault ... Even though I have knitted a lot in the last few weeks (see pictures below), I haven't felt up to the task to finish writing up a pattern.

Here's an overview of some of my current unfinished projects (roughly from left to right on the picture above):

• The huge purple thing in the upper left corner is supposed to be a poncho scarf combination (here's a picture of it on Instagram). It's made from bulky yarn which is something I don't usually knit with and I don't like how the lacy edging curls in. I guess it will be frogged - and I might pursue the general idea, but with a different edging and different (lighter weight) yarn.
• The orange-pink piece with holdes in the lower left hand corner is supposed to be a light summer scarf. It is constructed with short rows and BO/CO-holes and made with Wollmeise Pure yarn. If you want to see a close up (with a better view of the colors) it's here on my Instagram.
• The small half-moon shaped piece in pale mint (lying on top of the purple poncho) is a small swatch for a scarf/shrug combination. I will design a lower edging that does not curl in, but I guess it will work.
• The dark blue lacy piece is supposed to be a short row scarf, with lacy short rows. It somehow worked with the small swatches I knitted, but when kinitting a bigger piece the inner edge started to curl. That's why I added a garter stitch edge that is five stitches wide ... but I really don't like how it looks. Furthermore, the main idea (short rows in a lace pattern) is not visible at all. So I guess this piece will be frogged .
• The green trapezoid shaped piece is going to be another Waterfall Tunic, but with some fancy stitches at the side. The back piece is already finished. 
• Finally, the small crocheted piece in colors from pink to orange on the right is a crochet version of my Helix Mitts. Somebody on Ravelry asked whether I could do them in crochet and I am determined to finish them - including a written pattern - for autumn this year.

On the plus side, I have managed to finish some pieces - and quite a few of them will be made into patterns.

• On the upper part of the picture above there is a new knitted scarf. It is knitted from side to side with CO increases and decreases which gives it a staircase look. It is made from one skein of my new Wollmeise yarn, that I purchased a few weeks ago when I visited a friend in Bavaria. I have written a part of the pattern and (hopefully) I'll finish it over the weekend. I
• The black and white piece on the left hand side is going to be a cowl. It is knitted in intarsia technique with short rows. I've finished the written part of the pattern, but I still need to finish the chart (and maybe a helpful "shorthand" version). I also need to get some nice photos for it.
• The blue/white pair of fingerless gloves was finished earlier this year, and I really love the look and texture of them. I have started writing the pattern and some of the explanatory schematics have been drawn ... 
• The brown/beige pair is basically the same idea - only in crochet. And the pattern is half-written, half-illustrated, too.

If you know of any techniques that make me actually finish the things I started, please let me know. In real life deadlines work fine for me. But there aren't any deadlines for my blog and my knitting patterns ... (which is actually a good thing :)

First of August

Ever since moving back to Germany last winter - after having lived in Switzerland for 18 years - I have started to feel a bit nostalgic about my time there. And when I explored the idea of combining intarsia and short rows a bit more, I thought it might be fun to knit a Swiss flag.

So in honour of Swiss National Day, here's a little pattern with a Swiss flag. The finished piece can be used as a coaster or potholder - or just as a bit of Swiss decoration for your table. Since it is knitted in intarsia technique, it looks reasonably OK from WS as well.

For other ideas of combining intarsia with short rows see also my Wölkchen washcloth, my Wedges Wrap and my Citrus Fruit Potholder).


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials & Size

• I used about 20 grams of DK weight yarn - in red and white
• 3.5 mm knitting needles - I used dpns because the rows are quite short and you only have 14 sts on your needles
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle for grafting

The coaster that I knitted is a square that measures about 14 cm on each side.

Techniques & Notation

• Intarsia: Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy. The picture below shows both sides of the piece:

• Throughout the pattern, the following notation is used:  C1 (k4); C2 (k10, w+t, k10); C1 (k to end) means, knit 4 stitches in C1, change to C2 and knit 10 sts, do a wrap and turn, knit 10 stitches and then change back to C1 and k to end. I.e. color is indicated before the knitting instructions for that yarn. the knitting instructions for that yarn are given in brackets after the color and color changes are indicated by a semicolon.  I.e. color is indicated before the knitting instructions for that yarn. the knitting instructions for that yarn are given in brackets after the color and color changes are indicated by a semicolon.
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
  Since this washcloth is knit in garter stitch, you don't have to pick up your wraps - except in two rows, i.e. the rows where the wrapping color is different from the color of the wrapped stitch. These rows are indicated in the pattern. Here's a YouTube video that shows how to pick up your wraps (also by Very Pink Knits).
• Note: in some rows the wrap has to be made just at the color change in the row below, e.g. Ridge 3 where you knit 11 sts in C1 and the 12 stitch that is to be wrapped was knitted in C2. In this case, it's advisable to change the color (as if to knit the next stitch in the new color), wrap and turn in the new color, and then to change back. This gives nicer color edges.
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provisional CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com. 
• Weaving in ends while knitting: as shown in this YouTube video by So, I make stuff.
• Weaving in yarn while carrying it back: Draw a long loop of C2 to the point where you want to knit it (picture 1). This gives you a really long float. Knit the first stitch (picture 2). Before knitting the second stitch, catch the float by put the left hand needle under the float (picutre 3) and then knit the stitch with your working yarn as usual. If you catch the float every second stitch, the WS will look as shown in picture 4. (This is a bit like catching floats in stranded knitting as shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter.)
  The last two techniques (this and weaving in ends while knitting) will are used to avoid a long float that runs parallel to your knitting - and to avoid cutting your yarn. 

Click to enlarge

Instructions

With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 14 sts.
Knit the very first row (WS) as follows: C2 (k9); C1 (k5)
Ridge 1 (RS, WS): C1 (k5); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k5)
Ridge 2 (RS, WS): C1 (k5); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k5)

Ridge 3 (RS, WS): C1 (k11); C2 (w+t); C1 (k11) - on the RS weave in C2 yarn while you're knitting up to the stitch where you're using it.

Ridge 4 (RS, WS): C1 (k10, w+t, k10) 

Ridge 5 (RS, WS): C1 (k9, w+t, k9)
Ridge 6 (RS, WS): C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge 7 (RS, WS): C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge 8 (RS, WS): C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge 9 (RS, WS): C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge 10 (RS, WS): C1 (k4, w+t, k4)
Ridge 11 (RS, WS): C1 (k3, w+t, k3)

Ridge 12 (RS, WS): C1 (k2, w+t, k2)

Ridge 13 (RS, WS): C1 (k1, w+t, k1)

Ridge 14 (RS, WS): C1 (k1, w+t, k1)

Ridge 15 (RS, WS): C1 (k2, w+t, k2)

Ridge 16 (RS, WS): C1 (k3, w+t, k3)

Ridge 17 (RS, WS): C1 (k4, w+t, k4)

Ridge 18 (RS, WS): C1 (k5, w+t, k5)

Ridge 19 (RS, WS): C1 (k6, w+t, k6)

Ridge 20 (RS, WS): C1 (k7, w+t, k7)

Ridge 21 (RS, WS): C1 (k8, w+t, k8)

Ridge 22 (RS, WS): C1 (k9, w+t, k9)

Ridge 23 (RS, WS): C1 (k10, w+t, k10)

Ridge 24 (RS, WS): C1 (k11); C2 (w+t); C1 (k11)

Ridge 25 (RS, WS): C1 (k5); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k5) - on the RS draw a long C2 loop

Ridge 26 (RS, WS): C1 (k5); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k5)

Ridge 27 (RS, WS): C1 (k5); C2 (k9, turn, sl1, k8); C1 (k5)

Repeat ridges 1 to 27 twice more.
Then knit ridges 1 to 26.
Cut your yarns but leave tails long enough for grafting.
Graft in garter stitch: 5 sts in C1 and 9 sts in C2.

After grafting there is still a small hole in the middle of the piece - you can sew this closed with your C2 yarn tail. Sew in ends afterwards.

Chart

If you prefer to work from a chart, here's one. The numbers in front of the ridge indicate the number of stitches per color - the red number for the C1 stitches and the black number for the C2 stitches.

Chart - click on picture to enlarge

No Assembly Required - Knitted Top

I really like variegated yarn, but I don't like the "interruption" effect that comes from adding a piece of knitting in a color at a different place in the color gradient. Furthermore, I don't really like finishing sweaters, i.e. sewing pieces together etc.

So, when I bought a few skeins of a beautiful variegated yarn, I started thinking about how to knit it into a top in one continuous piece ... and here's what I came up with.

As with my Summer Garter Stitch Top and my Waterfall Tunic this is not a stitch-by-stitch pattern with stitch and row counts for various sizes but rather a tutorial on how to knit a top like this. You will have to swatch and calculate for yourself. So this top is completely configurable to your wishes and your shape. I will however give you my numbers and calculations as an example (written in purple). ... I hope, it is not too complicated.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





A Danish translation of this pattern has been provided by Marianne Holmen and can be found here on strikkeglad.dk.


Materials

• I used about 120 grams of lace weight yarn - however, this tutorial is written in a way that it can be adapted to other yarn weights as well (I used Jaipur by Katia - here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page).
• 3.5 mm needles (long straight needles or circulars)
• 3 stitch markers, 2 removable stitch markers
• scrap yarn for the provisional CO
• a tapestry needle for grafting

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
• Knitted Cast-On: See this Youtube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Cable Cast-On: See this Youtube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, slip the last stitch and insert the right needle in a loop from the opposite side, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk) - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66
• Stretchy Bind-Off: see this YouTube-video by Knitting Pipeline.
• There is also something, I'll call normal BO in the instructions: see this YouTube-video by Knit Purl Hunter.

Measurements to take

Take the following measurements - either on yourself or using a top that fits you well.

A = distance between underarm edge and start of shoulder
B = width of the shoulder seam
C = half of the width of neckline
D = a quarter of the waist circumference
E = a quarter of your  bust circumference
F = a quarter of your hip circumference

G = from shoulder to neckline (back)
H = from shoulder to neckline (front)
I = from shoulder to right under your arm
J = from shoulder to bust
K = from shoulder to waist
L = from shoulder to hip (total length of the garment)

Furthermore (not on the picture) you need to measure the height of your bust (top of your breast to just below your breasts). This number will be called N.

Construction

The picture below shows the construction:

You start with a provisional CO that reaches from just under your arms to the bottom of the top. After a few rows you start increasing and then you CO in order to for the strap reaching up to your shoulder. Once the shoulder is finished you decrease again for the neckline with a normal BO and a few further decreases during the next row. After you've finished the 1st half of the front piece, you'll have to knit a mirror image of it, i.e. you increase a few stitches and then do a cable CO for the shoulder pieces

Other noteworthy points:

• While you're knitting the front piece you add in short rows, a) to make sure that the bottom edge is wide enough to fit around your hip and b) to add bust "darts". These bust darts are not added at the back of the piece - instead the added width is knitted into an underarm part. However, there are also short rows to make the piece fit around your waist. 
• The 2nd half of one piece (front or back) is the exact mirror of the 1st part. So it's really useful to take notes while you're knitting, in order to be able to knit the same rows in the opposite order.
• When knitting the shoulder parts of the back piece you can connect them to the shoulder of the front piece while knitting - alternatively, you can sew them up after finishing.

You'll notice that I've used different COs and BOs for different parts of the piece. That's because different COs and BOs have a different "stretchy-ness". For the arm hole I wanted something rather elastic, that's why I chose a stretchy BO and a knitted CO. However, for the neckline I wanted something more stable, that's why I chose a "normal" BO and a cable CO.

Calculations

Knit a swatch in garter stitch that measures at least 10cm by 10cm. For this kind of project it is really important. I'm not a "swatcher" myself (i.e. I usually avoid knitting a swatch at all cost), but in case of a fitted top you're either really lucky (and it fits) or it safes some time and effort because when you start knitting without concrete ideas about stitch and row numbers, you just end up knitting a bigger swatch. Then start calculating how many stitches and rows there are for each of the measurements you took.

Here are my calculations for stitch numbers and ridges - rounded. My swatch measured 22 sts for 10 cm in width and 22 ridges (44 rows) for 10 cm in height.

A (distance between underarm edge and start of shoulder): 2 cm = 9 rows (4.4 ridges)
B (width of the shoulder seam): 10 cm = 22 ridges
C (half of the width of neckline): 11 cm = 24 ridges
D (a quarter of the waist circumference): 20,5 cm = 45 ridges
E (a quarter of your  bust circumference): 22,5 cm = 49 ridges
F (a quarter of your hip circumference): 24,5 cm = 54 ridges

G (from shoulder to neckline (back)): 13 cm = 28 sts
H (from shoulder to neckline (front)): 16 cm = 35 sts
I  (from shoulder to right under your arm): 21 cm = 46 sts
J  (from shoulder to bust): 29 cm = 64 sts
K (from shoulder to waist): 48 cm = 106 sts
L (from shoulder to hip (total length of the garment): 60 cm = 132 sts
N (height of bust darts): 15 cm = 33 sts

Further calculations:
You need to calculate the number of short rows - for bust darts and hip, per half of one side.
For the bust darts this is E-D, and F-D for the hip. To calculate how often they need to be done, divide the number of waist ridges (D) by E (for the bust darts) and F (for the hip) respectivel - taking into account the ridges you knitted before you started the shaping short rows (A).

• For bust darts: (D-A)/(E-D)
• For the waist: (D-A)/(F-D) 

In my case, I needed 

• 4 ridges for the bust darts (E-D=49-45=4), i.e. 4 bust darts short rows and 
• 9 more ridges for the hip shaping (F-D=54-45=9), i.e 9 waist shaping short row ridges need to be knitted for one half of one side 
• the hip shaping ridges need to be done every 5th row ((D-A)/9=(45-4)/9=4.555, rounded 5). 
• the bust shaping ridges need to be knitted every 10th row ((D-A)/4=(45-4)/4=10,25, rounded 10) 

You also need to calculate the length from just under your arm to the bottom edge for your first (provisional) CO, this is L-I, in my case 60-21=39 cm (86 sts).

Instructions

Front - 1st Half

With provisional CO cast on L-I stitches and knit the first row with your working yarn. This first row is knitted upwards (i.e. from the bottom hem of the top upwards, ↑).
To achieve a rounded arm hole, you need to increase a few stitches at this end before you cast on (with a knitted CO) the stitches for the armhole. That's why I knitted one kfb at this end in every row while knitting the distance A, i.e.
R1 (armhole to bottom hem, ↓): sl1, kfb, k to end
R2 (bottom hem to armhole, ↑): sl1, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
After these ridges, I did a knitted CO of the stitches that were needed for the armhole (I minus the increases already done).
In my case I knitted 9 rows (very first row after provisional CO plus four times R1 & R2), i.e. I had increased by 8 stitches. So I cast on 38 sts (46 (I) - 8 (increases) = 38).

In the next row (top-down) you can put in your stitch markers to help with the short rows for shaping:
M1: K sts from top (to mark the waistline)
M2: J sts from top (to mark the bustline)
M3: I sts from top (to mark the end of the armhole)

Now you need to start inserting the short rows for shaping waist and bust.

Ridge with waist shaping short row (starts from bottom hem):
  (↑) sl1, k to M1, w+t,
  (↓) k to end, turn,
  (↑) sl1, k to end, turn
  (↓) sl1, k to end

Ridge with short rows for bust darts:
  (↑) sl1, k to M2, k N/2, w+t,
  (↓) k to M2, k N/2, w+t
  (↑) k to end, turn
  (↓) sl1, k to end
In my case (with N = 33 sts) I knitted 16 sts on the way up /(counted from M2) and 17 sts on the way down (counted from M2)).

Normal ridges (no shaping) are knitted as follows:
  (↑) sl1, k to end,
  (↓) sl1, k to end

When the shoulder seam measures B ridges, knit your neckline. Start by a BO of three quarters of H at the top - i.e. start BO in the beginning of a top-down row.
During the next rows, decrease one stitch at the top edge - one quarter of H times (so in the end you have decreased a total of H sts), i.e.
  (↑) sl1, k to 3 bef, end, k2tog, k1
  (↓) sl1, ssk, k to end

In my case (with H = 35 sts), I did a BO of 26 sts, and decreased on the top edge by one stitch for the next 9 rows.

(Don't forget to insert the hip and bust short rows while knitting the neckline).

Knit to the middle of the front piece - without forgetting to knit the bust and hip shaping short rows.

Put a removable stitch marker into the first stitch of the next row to mark the middle of the front piece.

Front - 2nd Half
Knit exactly the same ridges as in the 1st half, but

• knit them in the opposite order, i.e. start with the last ridge of the 1st half and end with the first ridge of the 1st half and
• for every increased stitch on the top edge during the first half, you decrease a stitch in the second half - and vice versa.

After you've knitted nearly all of the first part, your piece should look as shown below.

After finishing the 2nd half of the front you should have the same number of stitches you CO in the first provisional CO.

1st Underarm Part

Since there are no bust darts on the back of this piece, the necessary ridges must be knitted somewhere else to get the bust circumference. In case of this sweater, I leveled this out by knitting the necessary ridges underarm. When starting from the top, knit to M2 and then N/2 stitches further (like in the short row for bust shaping), then do a w+t and knit back. The next row, knit up to 2 sts before the last w+t. do a w+t and knit back. Repeat this until you have knitted the calculated number of ridge. Or in knitting terms:

  (↓) sl1, k to M2, k N/2, w+t,
    (↑) k end
* (↓) sl1, k to M2, k 2 sts before last turn, w+t,
    (↑) k to end
  repeat from * until you've knitted E-D ridges.

In my case, I needed to knit 4 ridges  (E-D=49-45=4) and N/2 was calculated as 17 sts. So I knitted:
  (↓) sl1, k to M2, k17, w+t, (↑) k end
  (↓) sl1, k to M2, k15, w+t, (↑) k end
  (↓) sl1, k to M2, k13, w+t, (↑) k end
  (↓) sl1, k to M2, k11, w+t, (↑) k end

Back - 1st Half

Knit the same rows as in the 1st half of the front bit, with the following differences.

• Do not knit the short rows for the bust darts.
• When you've knitted the armhole CO (and start to knit the shoulder seam), you can connect the first stitch of the next top-down row to the last stitch of the second shoulder seam of the front part. Connect the first stitch next top-down row to the next stitch of the shoulder seam of the front part (alternatively, you can sew up both shoulder seams after finishing).
• When decreasing for the neckline, use G sts (instead of H). The same goes for the increases later during the 2nd half of the back.

Back - 2nd Half

Knit exactly the same ridges as in the 1st half of the back piece, but

• knit them in the opposite order, i.e. start with the last ridge of the 1st half and end with the first ridge of the 1st half and
• for every increased stitch on the top edge during the first half, you decrease a stitch in the second half - and vice versa
• connect the 2nd shoulder seam of the back to the first shoulder seam of the front.

2nd Underarm Part

Knit this exactly as the 1st underarm part.
Make sure that your last row is knitted upwards.

Finishing

Put the stitches of the provisional CO on the second needle.
Cut your yarn but leave a tail that is long enough for grafting - I usually leave a tail that is 5 times the length of the seam to be grafted. Graft in garter stitch.
Weave in ends and block to size.

Wölkchen Washcloth

Currently, I seem to be obsessed with intarsia knitting ... but since I do not like to weave in ends (AT ALL), I try to do everything with a maximum of two skeins (or bobbins) of yarn. In the instance of this piece, I wanted to achieve a white cloud shape on blue background. And since the background is above and below as well as left and right of the white cloud, I needed to knit around the center to only have two active skeins.

Yes, I know that it would have been perfectly easy to just knit it in plain intarsia style with three bobbins of yarn (two blue, one white) in a rectangle from bottom to top. But I really (really, really) wanted to achieve this with only two of them (one blue, one white).

Since it is knitted with intarsia technique the WS of the piece looks OK. It is knitted all in garter stitch, which gives it a squishy texture. Of course, this piece can not only be used as a washcloth, but also as a potholder or coaster.

As to the name, Wölkchen is the german word for a small cloud or a puff of a cloud.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• a total of 30 grams of Sports or DK weight yarn in two colors (however, you can use other yarn weights as well)
• 3.5mm needles (or the needles that the yarn calls for)
• scrap yarn and crochet hook for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends 

Techniques & Notation

• Intarsia: Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy. That way you don't have to carry long strands on the WS. The picture below shows the RS and WS of the piece.

• Throughout the pattern, the following notation is used:  C1 (k4); C2 (k10, w+t, k10); C1 (k to end) means, knit 4 stitches in C1, change to C2 and knit 10 sts, do a wrap and turn, knit 10 stitches and then change back to C1 and k to end. I.e. color is indicated before the knitting instructions for that yarn. the knitting instructions for that yarn are given in brackets after the color and color changes are indicated by a semicolon.  
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
  Since this washcloth is knit in garter stitch, you don't have to pick up your wraps - except in two rows, i.e. the rows where the wrapping color is different from the color of the wrapped stitch. These rows are indicated in the pattern. Here's a YouTube video that shows how to pick up your wraps (also by Very Pink Knits).
• Note: in some rows the wrap has to be made just at the color change in the row below, e.g. Ridge B11 where you knit 11 sts in C1 and the 12 stitch that is to be wrapped was knitted in C2. In this case, it's advisable to change the color (as if to knit the next stitch in the new color), wrap and turn in the new color, and then to change back. This gives nicer color edges.
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provisional CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com. 

Construction

The washcloth is knitted in 5 parts. It starts with a provisional CO. Then each row is a stitch shorter than the last one, One part ends, when the row is only 1 stitch long - then the next part begins and each row is one stitch longer than the last one until all stitches are knitted and we've sucessfully knitted around a corner. Then the row length is getting shorter again for the next corner. 

After knitting around four corners and the two sides (CO and last row) are grafted in garter stitch.

Instructions

Part A

With scrap yarn provisionally CO 18 sts

Row 0: C2 (k4), C1 (k14)
Ridge A1: C1 (k13); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k13)
Ridge A2: C1 (k12); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k12)

Ridge A3: C1 (k11); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k11)

Ridge A4: C1 (k11); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k11)

Ridge A5: C1 (k11); C2 (k2, w+t, k2); C1 (k11)

Ridge A6: C1 (k11); C2 (k1, w+t, k1); C1 (k11)

Ridge A7: C1 (k11, w+t, k11)

Ridge A8: C1 (k10, w+t, k10)

Ridge A9: C1 (k9, w+t, k9)
Ridge A10: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge A11: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge A12: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge A13: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge A14: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)
Ridge A15: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge A16: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge A17: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)

Part B
Ridge B1: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)
Ridge B2: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge B3: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge B4: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)

Ridge B5: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge B6: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge B7: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge B8: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge B9: C1 (k9, w+t, k9)
Ridge B10: C1 (k10, w+t, k10)
Ridge B11: C1 (k11, w+t, k11)
Rigde B12: C1 (k11); C2 (k1, w+t, k1); C1 (k11)
Rigde B13: C1 (k10); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k10)
Rigde B14: C1 (k10); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k10)
Rigde B15: C1 (k9); C2 (k6, w+t, k6); C1 (k9)
Rigde B16: C1 (k9); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k9)
Rigde B17: C1 (k8); C2 (k9, w+t, k9); C1 (k8)

Rigde B18: C1 (k7); C2 (k11, turn, k11); C1 (k7)

Rigde B19: C1 (k5); C2 (k12, w+t, k12); C1 (k5)
Rigde B20: C1 (k4); C2 (k12, w+t, k12); C1 (k4)
Rigde B21: C1 (k4); C2 (k11, w+t, k11); C1 (k4)

Rigde B22: C1 (k4); C2 (k10, w+t, k10); C1 (k4)

Rigde B23: C1 (k5); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k5)
Rigde B24: C1 (k5); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k5)
Rigde B25: C1 (k6); C2 (k5, w+t, k5); C1 (k6)
Rigde B26: C1 (k7); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k7)

Rigde B27: C1 (k8); C2 (k1, w+t, k1); C1 (k8)

Ridge B28: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge B29: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge B30: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge B31: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge B32: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)
Ridge B33: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge B34: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge B35: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)

Part C

Ridge C1: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)
Ridge C2: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge C3: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge C4: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)

Ridge C5: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge C6: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge C7: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge C8: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)

Rigde C9: C1 (k8); C2 (k1, w+t, k1); C1 (k8)
Rigde C10: C1 (k8); C2 (k2, w+t, k2); C1 (k8)

Rigde C11: C1 (k8); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k8)

Rigde C12: C1 (k9); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k9)
Rigde C13: C1 (k10); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k10)
Rigde C14: C1 (k11); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k11)
Rigde C15: C1 (k10); C2 (k5, w+t, k5); C1 (k10)
Rigde C16: C1 (k9); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k9)
Rigde C17: C1 (k9); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k9)
Rigde C18: C1 (k9); C2 (k9, turn, k9); C1 (k9)

Rigde C19: C1 (k8); C2 (k9, w+t, k9); C1 (k8)

Rigde C20: C1 (k8); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k8)

Rigde C21: C1 (k7); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k7)
Rigde C22: C1 (k7); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k7)

Rigde C23: C1 (k7); C2 (k6, w+t, k6); C1 (k7)

Rigde C24: C1 (k7); C2 (k5, w+t, k5); C1 (k7)
Rigde C25: C1 (k7); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k7)
Rigde C26: C1 (k8); C2 (k2, w+t, k2); C1 (k8)

Rigde C27: C1 (k8); C2 (k1, w+t, k1); C1 (k8)

Ridge C28: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge C29: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge C30: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge C31: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge C32: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)
Ridge C33: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge C34: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge C35: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)

Part D

Ridge D1: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)
Ridge D2: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge D3: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge D4: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)

Ridge D5: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge D6: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge D7: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge D8: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)

Rigde D9: C1 (k7); C2 (k2, w+t, k2); C1 (k7)
Rigde D10: C1 (k6); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k6)
Rigde D11: C1 (k5); C2 (k6, w+t, k6); C1 (k5)

Rigde D12: C1 (k5); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k5)

Rigde D13: C1 (k4); C2 (k9, w+t, k9); C1 (k4)

Rigde D14: C1 (k4); C2 (k10, w+t, k10); C1 (k4)

Rigde D15: C1 (k3); C2 (k12, w+t, k12); C1 (k3)

Rigde D16: C1 (k3); C2 (k13, w+t, k13); C1 (k3)

Rigde D17: C1 (k3); C2 (k14, w+t, k14); C1 (k3)

Rigde D18: C1 (k4); C2 (k14, turn, k14); C1 (k4)

Rigde D19: C1 (k5); C2 (k12, w+t, k12); C1 (k5)

Rigde D20: C1 (k7); C2 (k9, w+t, k9); C1 (k7)

Rigde D21: C1 (k8); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k8)
Rigde D22: C1 (k8); C2 (k6, w+t, k6); C1 (k8)

Rigde D23: C1 (k9); C2 (k4, w+t, k4); C1 (k9)

Rigde D24: C1 (k9); C2 (k3, w+t, k3); C1 (k9)

Rigde D25: C1 (k10); C2 (k1, w+t, k1); C1 (k10)

Ridge D26: C1 (k10, w+t, k10)
Ridge D27: C1 (k9, w+t, k9)
Ridge D28: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge D29: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge D30: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge D31: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge D32: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)
Ridge D33: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge D34: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge D35: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)

Part E

Ridge E1: C1 (k1, w+t, k1)
Ridge E2: C1 (k2, w+t, k2)
Ridge E3: C1 (k3, w+t, k3)
Ridge E4: C1 (k4, w+t, k4)

Ridge E5: C1 (k5, w+t, k5)
Ridge E6: C1 (k6, w+t, k6)
Ridge E7: C1 (k7, w+t, k7)
Ridge E8: C1 (k8, w+t, k8)
Ridge E9: C1 (k9, w+t, k9)
Ridge E10: C1 (k10, w+t, k10)

Rigde E11: C1 (k9); C2 (k2, w+t, k2); C1 (k9)
Rigde E12: C1 (k7); C2 (k5, w+t, k5); C1 (k7)
Rigde E13: C1 (k6); C2 (k7, w+t, k7); C1 (k6)

Rigde E14: C1 (k6); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k6)

Rigde E15: C1 (k6); C2 (k9, w+t, k9); C1 (k6)

Rigde E16: C1 (k8); C2 (k8, w+t, k8); C1 (k8)
Rigde E17: C1 (k11); C2 (k6, w+t, k6); C1 (k11)

Graft in garter stitch: 14 sts in C1 (blue) and 4 sts in C2 (white)

Finishing

After grafting there is still a small hole in the middle of the piece - you can sew this closed with your yarn tail. Sew in ends afterwards.

Chart
When I designed this piece I worked from a piece of squared paper with the cloud drawn on. So, if you too, prefer to work from a chart, here's one. The numbers in front of the ridge indicate the number of stitches per color - the blue number for the C1 stitches and the black number for the C2 stitches. To make the counting a bit easier, there are dotted pink lines after every 5 stitches.

Wölkchen Washcloth Chart - click on picture to enlarge or here for a PDF of the chart (link update 03.10.21)

This post was featured at Link and Share Wednesday Link Party No. 203 at Oombawka Design. Thank you!

Pencil Holders - Knitter's Version

I like my stuff to state - loud and clear - that I am a knitter. That's why I sometimes decorate items in my home with pieces of my knitting. This was also the case with these pencil holders. In true recycling fashion I used old tin cans as basis - I painted them, knitted a few small pieces using old yarn leftovers to fit them and glued the knitting to the cans. The first ones were knitted in random lace style which creates an organic look.
I really love how they turned out. The finished pieces look very stylish on your desk ... and of course they can be used to hold some of your knitting equipment as well :)

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials

• old tin cans or old glass jars
• acryllic paint
• yarn (leftovers?)
• knitting needles appropriate for the yarn
• craft glue

Techniques ...
... if you like the random lace look of the purple containers

• Random Lace: a tutorial on how to knit these random lace pieces can be found in this blogpost about an ebook sleeve. 
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Grafting lace: Joni Coniglio has written several brilliant post on grafting in general and also on grafting lace - this one and this one.
  I guess this project is perfect to try the stitches (or formulas) because it doesn't really matter if you get one of them wrong - as long as you keep your number of stitches (it is RANDOM lace, after all).

Alternatively, you can just knit your piece with your preferred CO and BO and in any stitch pattern you like (e.g. plain garter stitch) and sew the edges together.

How-To

• Clean containers and remove labels (this blogpost by The Creek Line House explains how to do this without residue).
• Paint them with acryllic paint in your favorite color - I painted two coats on the outside and one on the inside.
• Measure your containers (height and circumference) and knit a piece that fits these measurements. I did plain garter stitch stripes (the tins painted white) and a few random lace pieces (the tins painted purple). I have written a tutorial on how to knit random lace a few years ago - you can find it here.
• If you've knitted a lace piece (random or otherwise), be sure to block it to size. It will look much nicer than before. I you've knitted a different stitch pattern, you may skip the blocking part - I did not block the garter stitch pieces.
• If you haven't grafted your piece, sew ends together to form a tube, pull it over your container and glue the knitted piece to your container. Let the glue dry and you're done.

She sells seashells on the sea shore - Seashell Coasters

Over where I live it's recently been quite hot and I was in the mood for a little project with a summery, beachy holiday feeling. That's why I tried to knit a few coasters in a seashell shape. It took me a while to get the shape right, but I'm quite happy with them. They are lovely to put under a cool drink in summer. Furthermore, as a very small piece they are great to practice new knitting techniques - in this case short rows and intarsia.

Actually, the inspiration for the tongue twister "She sells seashells on the sea shore" in the title was a person: Mary Anning, an English fossil collector in the 19th century who found and correctly identified quite a few Jurassic fossils, but never received much credit in her lifetime.

An adaption of this pattern for loom knitting has been written by SparkiLady (Ravelry-Name) - it is available here.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





Materials/Size

• per coaster I used less than 10 grams of DK weight cotton, but other yarn weights will work as well
• I used 3mm dpns
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

With the yarn I used, the coasters were about 11 cm high and 17 cm wide (at their widest point).

Techniques & Notation

• Long-Tail Cast On: As shown in this YouTube video by Studio Knit
• Intarsia: Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy.
  Please note that for this pattern the last 2 stitches in CC of a row (when they are reached after using the MC - which only happens 6 times) are knitted with the tail of that was left over by the long tail CO. That way,  it is not necessary to use a 2nd skein or bobbin in CC - and it also avoids two more ends to weave in :) See photo below.

• Short Rows (t+p): Short rows are one of my favorite knitting techniques because they not only allow you to shape your knitting but also to created interesting graphical pattern. There are several techniques for short rows – and it’s a matter of taste which one you prefer. I’ve recently learned a technique called German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also this YouTube video); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
  When the pattern says, t+p it means that the stitch you just knitted should be pulled, i.e. you don't have to knit another stitch to t+p.
• Throughout the pattern, the following notation will be used: "CC (k2); MC (k13, t+p, k12); CC(k2) 13, w+t, k13)"   means "knit 2 sts with CC; change to MC and knit 13, do a turn an pull, knit 12 stitches with MC; change back to CC and knit the 2 stitches 
• CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1) means "with the tail of CC knit 2 stitches, turn, sl1 and k1". In order to avoid a second skein or bobbin (and two more ends to weave in). You're asked to leave a tail of your CO and knit with it.

Instructions

CO21 in CC with long tail CO, but leave a tail of at least 80 cm - this tail will be used to knit the CC edge stitches on this side of the piece.
Setup Row: k all sts
Ridge 1: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k17); CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1); MC (k17); CC (k2)
Ridge 2: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k12, t+p, k11); CC (k2)
Ridge 3: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k8, t+p, k7); CC (k2)
Ridge 4: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k1, kfb, k1 t+p, k3); CC (k2)
Ridge 5: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k7, t+p, k6); CC (k2)
Ridge 6: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k11, t+p, k10); CC (k2)
Ridge 7: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k15, t+p, k14); CC (k2)
Ridge 8: CC (sl1, k21, turn, sl1, k21)
Ridge 9: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k18); CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1); MC (k18); CC (k2)
Ridge 10: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k13, t+p, k12); CC (k2)
Ridge 11: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k9, t+p, k8); CC (k2)
Ridge 12: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k1, kfb, k2, t+p, k4); CC (k2)
Ridge 13: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k8, t+p, k7); CC (k2)
Ridge 14: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k12, t+p, k11); CC (k2)
Ridge 15: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k16, t+p, k15); CC (k2)
Ridge 16: CC (sl1, k22, turn, sl1, k22)
Ridge 17: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k19); CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1); MC (k19); CC (k2)
Ridge 18: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k1, kfb, k10, t+p, k12); CC (k2)
Ridge 19: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k11, t+p, k10); CC (k2)
Ridge 20: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k7, t+p, k6); CC (k2)
Ridge 21: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k5, t+p, k4); CC (k2)
Ridge 22: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k9, t+p, k8); CC (k2)
Ridge 23: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k12, t+p, k11); CC (k2)
Ridge 24: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k1, ssk, k12, t+p, k13); CC (k2)
Ridge 25: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k19); CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1); MC (k19); CC (k2)
Ridge 26: CC (sl1, k22, turn, sl1, k22)
Ridge 27: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k16, t+p, k15); CC (k2)
Ridge 28: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k12, t+p, k11); CC (k2)
Ridge 29: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k8, t+p, k7); CC (k2)
Ridge 30: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k1, ssk, k3, t+p, k4); CC (k2)
Ridge 31: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k9, t+p, k8); CC (k2)
Ridge 32: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k13, t+p, k12); CC (k2)
Ridge 33: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k18); CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1); MC (k18); CC (k2)
Ridge 34: CC (sl1, k21, turn, sl1, k21)
Ridge 35: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k15, t+p, k14); CC (k2)
Ridge 36: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k11, t+p, k10); CC (k2)
Ridge 37: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k7, t+p, k6); CC (k2)
Ridge 38: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k1, ssk, k2, t+p, k3); CC (k2)
Ridge 39: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k8, t+p, k7); CC (k2)
Ridge 40: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k12, t+p, k11); CC (k2)
Ridge 41: CC (sl1, k1); MC (k17); CCtail (k2, turn, sl1, k1); MC (k17); CC (k2)
Ridge 42: CC (sl1, k to end, turn; bind off)

Chart

If you prefer to work from a chart, here's one. The numbers in front of the ridge indicate the number of stitches per color - the green number for the CC stitches and the black number for the MC stitches.
The pink dotted line are only there to help you counting. They have a distance of 5 stitches and start at the end of the row - after the last two CC color end stitches.

The cake in this picture is a chocolate babka - I used this recipe (in German)

This post was featured at the Tuesday PINspiration Link Party, at the Brag about it link party 28-17, and at the Sew it, Craft it Cook it Link Party #13. Thank you!