Focussed ...

Over christmas I usually have a lot of spare time to try out some new stuff. This year I thought it'd be interesting to knit a pair of mitts starting from one focussing point around the edge of the hand ... a bit like Circle Mitts - just starting at the opposite side.

Here's the first one I came up with. However, I didn't like the finishing, i.e. the upper edge and the shape of the thumb.

That's why I started anew - this time with a better idea on how to knit the upper edge and the thumb. I also tried to make them a bit asymmetrical, i.e. placing the starting point a bit more on the back of the hand.

I like this version better, but I guess I'll need to knit another pair (in a nice yarn) to be able to write up a pattern and to get decent pictures.

Double Helix Mitts

After finishing the Helix Mitts, I played bit further with the idea ... and came up with mitts formed of two strips winding up the hands ...

When knitting these, you take turns in knitting with color A and with color B - that's why you need three needles to knit them. As with the Helix Mitts, the strips are joined as you knit, so no sewing is required.

For most female hands, you need less than 15 grams of fingering weight yarn for each color (i.e. a total of 30 grams) – therefore it’s a great pattern to use up leftovers of nice sock yarn. I used some leftover Lang Sansibar contrasted with some beige Alpaca yarn.

Materials

• a total of about 30 grams of sport weight yarn (5-ply) in two colors
• three knitting needles (3mm) - I used short dpns
• about 14 removable stitch markers or safety pins

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Abbreviations and Special Techniques

• Joining to rows at the edges: There are various ways to connect the last stitch of one ridge to the first stitch of another. I used the following ones:
  For the first mitt, I'd knit to the last stitch of the RS row slip it knitwise, pick up the front leg of the edge stitch, then insert the left hand needle as for a slip-slip knit and knit the two loops together. On the back row I'd slip the first stitch and knit to the end.
  Since the mitts are mirror inverted, they coil in the opposite direction. This meant that I had to do the join from the WS, like that. I'd knit to the last stitch and slip it as if to purl through the back loop (ptbl) with yarn in front, turn your work; pick up a leg of the edge stitch you want to join to and do a k2tog of this and the stitch you just turned.
  However, there are other methods to join rows at the edges, one method is shown here: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q . Please note that whatever you do, please stay consistent throughout one mitt.
• German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also http://youtu.be/PsBkXPmjgaE); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).

"Gauge" – or what you should check beforehand
Measure the circumference of your wrists – loosely. If 36 rows (i.e. 18 garter stitch ridges) measure more than half of this circumference – the mitts will be too wide for you.
If – as me – you don’t like to knit a swatch, you can alternatively knit the first piece (i.e. the beginning of Round 1 – Color A) to check if it fits.

Instructions

The instructions are given in rounds or levels, i.e. layers of garter strip stitches – one layer per color. Ends of levels, i.e. the last rows of each round, are marked with stitch markers or safety pins.

First Mitt

Level 1 – Color A:
CO2
R0: k2
R1: k1 mk1 k1
R2 – R6: sl1, k to end
R7: sl1, kfb, k to end
R8 – R12: sl, k to end
Repeat R7 to R12 four more times, you should have 8 stitches on your needle. The piece should look like a triangle.

If the piece is shorter than half of the
circumference of your wrists, go on with R11 and R12 until you have reached the desired length (i.e. half the circumference of your wrist).
Mark the last row (this marker will be called: Level-1-A-Marker - see picture on the right to see how the markers are placed)

Level 1 – Color B:
With yarn B and a new needle (and as yet complete unattached to the piece you just knitted)
Knit the same piece in color B.
Mark the last row (this marker will be called: Level-1-B-Marker)

Level 2 – Color A:
Now the last stitch of a color A row is connected to the first stich of a color B row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Level 2 – Color B:
Fold the connected strip backwards (see illustration no. 1) so that you can connect the next row of the color B-triangle to the first row of the color A-triangle.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Illustrations 1, 2, 3 and 4

Now finish round 2 in colors A and B – taking turns to knit. (You don't have to finish a layer of one color before switching to the other one. You can switch anytime inbetween as long as you use the markers.)
When you connect a row to a row with a marker, mark this row (the markers will be called Level-2-A-Marker and Level-2-B-Marker respectively)

Level 3 – Color A
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-2-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-3-A-Marker)

Level 3 – Color B
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-2-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-3-B-Marker)

Level 4 – Color A
The following short row sequence serves to wide the mitts and to create a thumb gusset. (One garter stitch ridge equals two rows).
Ridge 1 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 2: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 4 = SR1, SR2

Ridge 5: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end

Ridge 6 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 7 = SR1, SR2

Ridge 8: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 9 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 10 = SR1, SR2

Place a marker (this will be called Thumb-End-Marker-A)

Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-3-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-4-A-Marker)

Level 4 – Color B
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-3-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-4-B-Marker)

Level 5 – Color A
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-4-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-5-A-Marker)

Level 5 – Color B
Now the thumb gusset will be widened a bit more with some short rows.
Ridge 1 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 2 = SR1, SR2

Ridge 3: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end

Ridge 4 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 5 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 6: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 7 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 8 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 9: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 10 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 11 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 12: sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 13 = SR1, SR2
Ridge 14 = SR1, SR2

Place a marker (this will be called Thumb-End-Marker-B) - illustration no. 3 shows how the piece should look now.
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-4-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-5-B-Marker)

Level 6 – Color A
R1: sl1, k to end (do NOT attach the last stitch to the level below)
R2: sl1, k to end
Repeat R1 and R2 five more times.
Try it on and see if the unattached strip fits over your thumb to reach Thumb-End-Marker-B (see illustration no. 4). If it’s too short repeat R1 and R2 once more.
Knit SR1, but attach the last stitch to the first stitch of the row marked with Thumb-End-Marker-B.
Knit SR2.
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-5-B-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-6-A-Marker)

Level 6 – Color B
Continue knitting SR1 and SR2 – when you reach the row marked with Level-5-A-Marker, place a marker (this will be called Level-6-B-Marker)

Level 7 – Colors A and B
R1 = SR1
R2 = SR2
R3 = SR1
R4: sl1, k2tog, k to end
R5 = SR1
R6 = SR2
Repeat R1 to R6 until there are 3 sts left.

R7 = SR1
R8 = SR2
R9 = SR1
R10: sl1, k2tog, k to end
R11: SR1
R12: ssk, cut yarn and draw through loop


2nd Mitt

There are two differences that make the mitts mirror-images of one another:
a) the knitted strip is folded differently when first connecting the rows
b) the connection is done differently (i.e. standard rows 1 and 2 are different, as described below).

Knit level 1 (colors A and B) as for 1st mitt.

Level 2 - Color A
Now the last stitch of a color A row is connected to the first stich of a color B row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch wyif as if to do a ptbl
Standard Row 2 (SR2): pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Level 2 – Color B
Fold the connected strip forwards (i.e. in the opposite direction as for the first mitt, see illustration no. 2) so that you can connect the next row of the color B-triangle to the first row of the color A-triangle.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these standard rows at least 5 times.

Now finish round 2 in colors A and B – taking turns to knit.
When you connect a row to a row with a marker, mark this row (the markers will be called Level-2-A-Marker and Level-2-B-Marker respectively)

Knit levels 3 to 6 (in both colors) as for 1st mitt.

Level 7 – Colors A and B
R1 = SR1
R2 = SR2
R3 = SR1
R4: pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k2tog, k to end
R5 = SR1
R6 = SR2
Repeat R1 to R6 until there are 3 sts left.

R7 = SR1
R8 = SR2
R9 = SR1
R10: pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k2tog, k to end
R11: sl1, sl1 as if to ptbl
R12: pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), cut yarn and draw through loop

Before you weave in the ends, turn the mitts inside out and decide which side you like best. The picture on the right shows the difference - one knit has been turned inside out and you can see that the connection looks different. After you have decided, weave in ends.

Helix Mitts

These mitts basically consist of a 10-stitch wide strip that winds around the wrists and hands. The strip is attached as you work, so no sewing is required.
They are all in garter stitch and a nice way to show of variegated yarn.

Left-hand and right-hand mitt are mirror inverted, so the directions are slightly different.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials

• about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm needles (since the knitting is 10 stitches at the widest point, I used short dpns)
• about 14 safety pins to mark rows
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations and Special Techniques

• Joining to rows at the edges: There are various ways to connect the last stitch of one ridge to the first stitch of another. I used the following ones:
  For the first mitt, I'd knit to the last stitch of the RS row slip it knitwise, pick up the front leg of the edge stitch, then insert the left hand needle as for a slip-slip knit and knit the two loops together. On the back row I'd slip the first stitch and knit to the end.
  Since the mitts are mirror inverted, they coil in the opposite direction. This meant that I had to do the join from the WS, like that. I'd knit to the last stitch and slip it as if to purl through the back loop (ptbl) with yarn in front, turn your work; pick up a leg of the edge stitch you want to join to and do a k2tog of this and the stitch you just turned.
  
  However, there are other methods to join rows at the edges, one method is shown here: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q . Please note that whatever you do, please stay consistent throughout one mitt.
   
• German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also http://youtu.be/PsBkXPmjgaE); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).

Instructions

First Mitt

Round 1:
CO2
R0: k2
R1: sl1 k1
R2: sl1, kfb
R3-R5: sl1, k to end
R6: sl1, kfb, k to end
R7-R9: sl1, k to end
Repeat rows 6 to 9 until there are 10 sts on your needles
Mark that row (this marker will be called Mid-Row-Marker-1)

Now repeat rows 8 and 9 until the strip fits around your wrist.
Mark the last row (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-1)

Round 2:

Fold the strip backwards (see picture on the right) so that you can connect the next row to the edge stitch of the very first row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Standard Row 2 (SR2): sl1, k to end
Repeat these rows until you reach the ridge marked with Mid-Row-Marker-1, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Mid-Round-Marker-2)

Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Start-Round-Marker-1, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-2)

Round 3:
Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Mid-Round-Marker-2, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Mid-Row-Marker-3, it will also mark the beginning of the thumb increases).
The picture below shows some of the markers and their position on the mitt.

The following short row sequence serves to wide the mitts and to create a thumb gusset.
Thumb Row 1 = SR1
Thumb Row 2 = SR2
Thumb Row 3: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 4: k to end
Thumb Row 5 = SR1
Thumb Row 6 = SR2
Thumb Row 7: sl1, k7, t+p
Thumb Row 8: k to end
Thumb Row 9 = SR1
Thumb Row 10 = SR2
Thumb Row 11: sl1, k6, t+p
Thumb Row 12: k to end
Thumb Row 13 = SR1
Thumb Row 14 = SR2
Thumb Row 15: sl, k5, t+p
Thumb Row 16: k to end
Thumb Row 17 = SR1
Thumb Row 18 = SR2
Thumb Row 19: sl1, k6, t+p
Thumb Row 20: k to end
Thumb Row 21 = SR1
Thumb Row 22 = SR2
Thumb Row 23: sl1, k7, t+p
Thumb Row 24: k to end
Thumb Row 25 = SR1
Thumb Row 26 = SR2
Thumb Row 27: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 28: k to end
Thumb Row 29 = SR1
Thumb Row 30 = SR2
Mark this row (this marker will be called Thumb-End-Marker-1).

Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Start-Round-Marker-2, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-3)

Round 4:
Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Mid-Round-Marker-3, and mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Mid-Round-Marker-4)

Now the thumb gusset will be widened a bit more with some short rows.
Thumb Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 = SR1
Thumb Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 = SR2
Thumb Row 11: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 12: k to end
Thumb Rows 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 = SR1
Thumb Rows 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 = SR2
Thumb Row 23: sl1, k8, t+p
Thumb Row 24: k to end
Thumb Rows 25, 27, 29, 31, 33  = SR1
Thumb Rows 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 = SR2
Mark the last row, this marker will be called Thumb-End-Marker-2.

Repeat SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked Start-Round-Marker-3, mark the next ridge (this marker will be called Start-Round-Marker-4)

Round 5:
Knit SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked with Mid-Round Marker-4.

Knit 6 ridges that are not connected to the round below:
Unattached Row 1: sl1, k to end
Unattached Row 2: sl1, k to end
(Repeated a total of 6 times)

Try the mitt on and try how it fits if the last knitted row were attached to the row marked with Thumb-End-Marker-2. If it feels to tight, knit one or two more unattached ridges.

Attach the next row to the row below Thumb-End-Marker-2

Knit SR1 and SR2 until you reach the ridge marked with Start-Round-Marker-4.
Row 1 = SR1
Row 2 = SR2
Row 3 =  sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise, pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle into both stitches and knit like an ssk.
Row 4 = sl1, ssk, k to end
Row 5 = SR1
Row 6 = SR2
Repeat rows 1 to 6 until there are only two stitches left
Last row: slip these two stitches knitwise (as if to do a k2tog), pick up edge stitch, insert left-hand needle the three loops on the needle and knit.
Cut yarn.


Second Mitt
There are tow differences that make the mitts mirror-images of one another:
a) the knitted strip is folded differently when first connecting the rows
b) the connection is done differently (i.e. standard rows 1 and 2 are different, as described below).


Knit Round 1 as for first mitt.

Round 2:
Fold the strip forwards (i.e. in the different direction than for first mitt) so that you can connect the next row to the edge stitch of the very first row.
Standard Row 1 (SR1): sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch wyif as if to do a ptbl
Standard Row 2 (SR2): pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), k to end
Repeat these rows until you reach the row marked with Mid-Row-Marker-1, mark this row (this marker will be called Mid-Row-Marker-2)

Continue round 2 and knit Round 3 and Round 4 as for the first mitt.

Round 5:
Knit as for first mitt until you reach Start-Round-Marker-4.
Row 1 = SR1
Row 2 = SR2
Row 3 = sl1, k to last stitch, slip last stitch wyif as if to do a ptbl
Row 4 = pick up edge stitch, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of the last row and the picked up stitch), ssk, k to end
Row 5 = SR1
Row 6 = SR2
Repeat rows 1 to 6 until there are only two stitches left
Next-to-last row: sl1, sl1 as if to do a ptbl
Last row: pick up edge stitch, k3tog
Cut yarn.

Before you weave in the ends, turn the mitts inside out and decide which side you like best. Then weave in ends.

Bandages ...

... or rather fingerless gloves that are knitted in a narrow strip that winds itself around the hands. I'm not sure whether the shape is perfect, but at least it works in principle.

Data Center Mitts

Sometimes when external contractors have to do stuff in one of the high-security rooms of a data centre, my colleagues have to chaperone them. These rooms tend to be well air-conditioned, i.e. it gets cold after a while.

That’s why, a few weeks ago I received a “distress call” via chat from a work mate – to please bring him fingerless gloves the next day. He had been sitting and freezing there for a whole day and didn’t want to repeat that experience unprotected. When I looked through all the fingerless gloves in my wardrobe (many), I noticed that they were all made for women’s hands – and too slim to fit over male hands. Furthermore, many of my designs are rather feminine … So, I brought him my widest ones but promised to knit him a new pair – more suitable for his hands and less girly. A week later his own special pair was ready. Here they are - the data centre mitts :)

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• 70 grams of 6-ply yarn
• 3.5 mm dpns
• 2 stitch markers
• Stitch holder or scrap yarn
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations & Special Techniques

• mk1p: make 1 purl stitch (as shown in this video, the first two ways are OK for this pattern)
• C2B: cable 2 back, e.g. like shown in the this video. For me (unlike for the lady who provided the video, C2B is easier to do than C2F - choose for yourself but use the same stitch throughout the pattern :)  
• pm: place marker
• sm: slip marker
• Backwards loop cast-on: shown in this video 
• Pick up and knit: shown in this video

Instructions

CO56 sts and join in round
Knit 6 rounds of ribbing: *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round

Start with cable pattern
Round 1 and 2: *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 3: *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 4-5: *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 6: *p2 C2F p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Knit rounds 1-6 a total of 5 times and start thumb gusset

Thumb gusset and upper part of mitt
(Thumb increases are knitted every 2nd round while the pattern of cabling once per 3 rounds is kept.)
Round 1: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, pm mk1p pm, p1, k2, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 2: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, sm, p to next marker, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 3: p2 k2 p2 C2F, p1, sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1 k2 *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 4: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, sm , p to next marker, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 5: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1,sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 6: p2 C2F p2 k2 p1, sm , p to next marker, sm, p1, k2 *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 7:  p2 k2 p2 k2, p1,sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 8: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, sm, p to next marker, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 9: p2 k2 p2 C2F, sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1 k2 *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 10: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, sm, p to next marker, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 11: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1,sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 12: p2 C2F p2 k2 p1, sm , p to next marker, sm, p1, k2 *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 13: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1,sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 14: p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, sm, p to next marker, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 15: p2 k2 p2 C2F, sm, mk1p, p to 1 st before next marker, mk1p, sm, p1 k2 *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 16:  p2 k2 p2 k2, p1, sm, p to next marker, sm, p1, *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 17: p2 k2 p2 k2, put the next 17 stitches on a stitch holder or on scrap yarn (removing the markers), CO2 (with backwards loop cast-on), *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 18:  *p2 C2F p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Rounds 19 and 20:  *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 21: *p2 C2F p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 22 and 23: *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 24: *p2 k2 p2 C2F repeat from * to end of round
Round 25 and 26: 4-5: *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Round 27: *p2 C2F p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round

Knit 6 rounds of ribbing: *p2 k2 repeat from * to end of round
Bind-off loosely.

Thumb

Remove 17 thumb stitches from stitch holder and distribute them on 2 dpns. From the sides and above the thumb hole pick up and knit 5 stitches. with a third needle. (There are now 22 sts on your needles, the next needle to knit is the first one with the stitches from the stitch holder)

Row 1: p16 p2tog p3 p2tog (the p2togs are to close the gap between the stitches from above the thumb with the thumb gusset stitches - the last p2tog connects the last stitch of the first row with the first stitch of the next row - now there are only 20 stitches on your needles)
Rows 2-4: purl
Rows 5-8: *p1 k2 p1 repeat from * to end of round
Bind off loosely in pattern

Weave in ends.

Make two.

Something Fishy

This is the first time, I tried to knit a fair isle pattern ... I clearly need some more practice before I can produce something better ... ;)

Scrunchies Again

These are scrunchies that I made from "hosiery yarn", i.e.  strips of cut up pantyhose.

I used old "hosiery yarn" I made a few years ago (see blog post here) using the method described here.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• to balls of hosiery yarn (in two colors) - one ball equals the yarn you get from one leg
• one piece of hair elastic
• rather big dpns - I used 12mm dpns, but other sizes will do as well
• a tapestry needle for finishing

Instructions

The numbers in brackets refer to the numbers in the picture. Basically, you'll be knitting a tube around the hair elastic.

(1) With yarn A (beige in the picture) cast on 3 stitches (-> needle A)

On a second needle (-> needle B) cast on 3 stitches with yarn B (black in the picture)

(2) With yarn A knit all stitches from the needle B, the working yarn of both colors is now at the same place.

(3) Slip the hair elastic over needle A and the stitches on this needle. The elastic ends up between the needles. Turn work and knit all stitches on needle A with yarn B, slip the stitches on this needle back, and knit them with yarn A. There are now three rows on needle A (cast on with yarn A, one row with yarn B, and one row with yarn A) and two rows on needle B (cast on with yarn B, and one row of yarn A)

(4) Slip both balls of yarn through the ring, i.e. through the hair elastic and turn work. On needle B first knit all stitches with yarn B, then slip the stitches back and knit one row with yarn A. Turn work and repeat on needle A (i.e. knit one row with yarn B, slip the stitches back and knit them with yarn A). 

(5) Repeat step 4 until your knitted tube is long enough to fit around your hair elastic. Don't forget to slip the balls of yarn through the elastic ring at the beginning of each round.

(6) When the tube is long enough, prepare for finishing, i.e. slip only yarn B through the elastic and knit the three stitches on needle B with this yarn. Now the cast on and the last row on each needle are knitted in the same colour. Cut yarn but leave a tail of about 20 cm. Turn work - you're now facing needle A. with a tapestry needle and yarn B sew the stitches of the last row to the cast on - stitch by stitch, Turn work and do the same with yarn A for the stitches on needle B.

Knot the ends together and use the flat end of the tapestry needle to hide ends inside the tube. Whatever you do, the end will look a bit messy, but once you wear it in your hair, these irregularities will not be visible.

Circle Mitts - Aran Weight Version

A while ago I knitted the Swiss Cheese Scarf by Winnie Shih from really old yarn that I had bought some time in the 80ies. At that time it had been knitted into a sweater and been frogged several years later. Photos of this scarf project are on its Ravelry page.

I decided to knit a new pair of Circle Mitts (original pattern on my blog) but with the heavier yarn. I had one hank left with a label - from that I infered that the yarn was Aran weight.

This is a short version - for the general construction etc., please refer to the original Circle Mitts pattern.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Materials

• 4.5mm needles (I switched from dpns to circulars and back - even if you use circulars, you will need a third needle for the three-needle BO)
• about 50 grams of aran weight yarn
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations

• kfb: knit front & back
• mk1: make 1 knit stitch
• ssk: slip slip knit
• k2tog: knit 2 sts together
• p2tog: purl 2 sts together
• mk1p: make 1 purl stitch
• p2tog: purl 2 sts together through the back loop
• wrap and turn: a method for short rows

Instructions

Part 1 - Thumb

CO12 and join in round (I used this strechy cast-on method, but other CO methods are fine as well)
Knit 5 rounds of k1 p1-ribbing
Knit 3 rounds of plain stockinette stitch
Row 9: *k2 kfb repeat from * (you have increased by 4 sts => 16 sts on your needles)
Knit 2 more rounds of plain stockinette stitch

Part 2
(basically, you'll increase by 8 sts every other row)
Row 1: *k2 mk1 repeat from * (+8 => 24 sts)
Row 2 (and every other even row during part 2): k
Row 3:  *k1 mk1 k2 repeat from *
Row 5: *mk1 k4 repeat from *
Row 7: *k3 mk1 k2 repeat from *
Row 9: *k5 mk1 k1 repeat from *
BO 5 and continue knitting the round to end

Part 3
Turn work
Row 1: p2tog, * p3 mk1p p4 repeat from * until there are less than 7 sts left, p to last 2 sts, p2togtbl
Row 2: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 3: p2tog, * p5 mk1p p3 repeat from * until there are less than 8 sts left, p to last 2 sts, p2togtbl
Rows 4 & 5: ssk, k6, wrap and turn, p to last 2 sts , p2togtbl
Row 6: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Rows 7 & 8: p2tog, p6, wrap and turn, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 9: p2tog, *p6, mk1p, p3 repeat from * until there are less than 9 sts left, p to last 2 sts, p2togtbl
Row 10: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 11: p2tog, *p3, mk1p, p7 repeat from * until there are less than 10 sts left, p to last 2 sts, p2togtbl
Row 12: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog

You should now have something like 54 sts on your needles. Hold the sides together and with a three-needle bind-off, BO 15 sts.

If you  want the upper edge to be wider, just insert a few more of the short row sequences (Rows 4 & 5, and 7 & 8). For a more detailed explanations (as well as how to calculate the number of stitches to bind off if the mitts are wider), please read the original pattern.

Part 4
Distribute the remaining 24 stitches on your needles and put the stitch that remained from BO on the first needle. The remaining sts will be knitted in the round.

Round 1: sl1, pick up 2 sts from the gap between the first st and the next one (this will avoid holes), k10, mk1, k4, mk1, k to end, pick up 2 sts from gap between the stitch you just knitted and the first in the round (=> now there are 6 sts more on your needles, i.e. 30)
Row 2: (RS) k12, wrap and turn,
    (WS): p12, p12, wrap and turn (or use another method for short rows, e.g. this)
    (RS): k12
Row 3: (RS) k9, wrap and turn
     (WS): p7 p2tog, p2tog, p7, wrap and turn
     (RS); k9
Row 34 (RS) k5, wrap and turn
     (WS): p5, p5, wrap and turn
     (RS); k5
Round 25: k one round (picking up all wrapped sts).

Part 5
Knit 3 more rounds
Knit 6 rounds of k1 p1-ribbing
Bind-off loosely in pattern

Weave in ends.
Make two.

How to Use This Yarn?

In June I bought a skein of variegated yarn - with colours ranging from white over yellow, orange and red to light- and dark-blue. Here's a selection of my failed attempts, i.e. ideas that I didn't really like - another one is in this blog post :/

Yesterday, I decided that I would try something modular - that way yarn of one colour would be close :) For the modules, I basically used the same almond shape as in the Almendra scarf. But I added a little hole (4 stitches wide) in the center of each "almond". So far, it's the best I've tried with this yarn ... now I only have to decide whether it will be a triangular shawl or a rhomboid wrap ... hmm, difficult ...

Almendra Cowl

This cowl is made up of almond shaped short row sequences - with full rows in a contrast colour inbetween.

I like my cowls to fit around my neck twice. Threrefore this cowl is double-length, with a circumference of 140 cm - after blocking. It measures between 20 and 25 cm in height.



This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





A Czech translation has been provided by Raveler Nemravka. It is available here. Děkuju mnohokrát!


Materials

• 150 grams of worsted weight yarn in Main Colour (MC)
• 50 grams of worsted weight yarn in Contrast Colour (CC, beige on the photos)
• 5.5mm circular knitting needles
• 11 stitch markers (one different from the others)
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

I used some Noro Kurayon (Colourway 40 as MC and Colourway 211E as CC) that I've had in my stash for quite a while.

General Construction
Knitted in the round, this cowl consist of almond shaped short row sequences that are knitted one after another. When one layer is finished,  two full rows are knitted in a contrast colour. The next layer starts with an offset of 10 stitches.

Techniques

• Short rows with double stitches (German short rows, t+p): when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of "double-stitch" is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
• Cheats to avoid cutting yarn: Since I try out a lot (and consequently frog a lot), I avoid cutting yarn at all costs. That's why I'd rather strand yarn over a few stitches (or more) or slip a few stitches. In case of this pattern, this is necessary to get either MC or CC yarn to the start of the new row.
  The picture below shows how this stranding looks from the WS. The encircled numbers show where a new layer starts ("1" = start of first layer, "2" = start of second layer etc.)

Instructions
With CC CO 200 putting a stitch marker after every 20th stitch
Place last stitch marker and join in round (careful not to twist the stitches)
Purl one round, place a different marker to mark the end or round (this marker ("end marker") will be moved).

First Layer (Odd-numbered Layers)
Attach MC and with MC knit the first almond-section as follows
R1 (RS): k20 (i.e. to next marker, left border marker), t+p (turn and pull, see Techniques section)
R2 (WS): k20 (i.e. back to last marker and one stitch further), t+p
R3 (RS): k18, t+p
R4 (WS): k16, t+p
R5 (RS): k14, t+p
R6 (WS): k12, t+p
R7 (RS): k10, t+p
R8 (WS): k8, t+p
R9 (RS): k6, t+p
R10 (WS): k4, t+p
R11 (RS): k5, t+p
R12 (WS): k6, t+p
R13 (RS): k8, t+p
R14 (WS): k10, t+p
R15 (RS): k12, t+p
R16 (WS): k14, t+p
R17 (RS): k16, t+p
R18 (WS): k18, t+p
R19 (RS): k19 (i.e. to left border marker), and DON'T TURN
Continue from Row 1 and knit the next almond-section.

The picture below gives a sketch of the rows in relation to the stitch markers in odd numbered layers.

When you have finished the "almond section" that reaches the end marker or after you have knitted 10 "almonds" switch to CC.

With CC knit one round (stranding MC over the first 10 stitches) - please be careful to knit the double-stitches as one stitch (here the double stitches are the one just before and just after the stitch marker)
Purl one round. Remove the end marker, slip ten stitches, place the end marker.
(If - unlike me - you haven't got a problem with cutting yarn, you can alternatively break MC, knit one round in CC, purl one round in CC, cut CC, remove end marker, slip ten stitches, place end marker and then attach MC to start again.)

Second Layer (Even-Numbered Layers)
With MC start knitting the next almond - however, it is not knitted in the 20 sts between two stitch markers, but around one stitch marker (10 stitches on the left hand side and 10 stitches on the right hand side of the stitch marker).

R1 (RS): k20 (i.e. to next marker, left border marker), t+p (turn and pull, see Techniques section)
R2 (WS): k20 (i.e. back to last marker and one stitch further), t+p
R3 (RS): k18, t+p
R4 (WS): k16, t+p
R5 (RS): k14, t+p
R6 (WS): k12, t+p
R7 (RS): k10, t+p
R8 (WS): k8, t+p
R9 (RS): k6, t+p
R10 (WS): k4, t+p
R11 (RS): k5, t+p
R12 (WS): k6, t+p
R13 (RS): k8, t+p
R14 (WS): k10, t+p
R15 (RS): k12, t+p
R16 (WS): k14, t+p
R17 (RS): k16, t+p
R18 (WS): k18, t+p
R19 (RS): k19 (i.e. to left border marker), and DON'T TURN
Continue from Row 1 and knit the next almond-section.

When you have finished the "almond section" that reaches the end marker or after you have knitted 10 "almonds" switch to CC.

With CC knit one round (stranding MC over the first 10 stitches) - please be careful to knit the double-stitches as one stitch (here the double stitches are the one just before and just after the stitch marker)
Purl one round. Remove the end marker, slip ten stitches, place the end marker.
(If - unlike me - you haven't got a problem with cutting yarn, you can alternatively break MC, knit one round in CC, purl one round in CC, cut CC, remove the end marker, slip ten stitches , place the end marker, and then attach MC to start again.)

The picture below gives a sketch of the rows in relation to the stitch markers in even numbered layers.

Repeat first and second layer until the cowl is wide enough for you. I knitted a total of 5 layers (3x odd-numbered layers and 2x even-numbered layers).

Finish with one knit row in CC and bind off purling in CC.

Playing around with Short-Rows ... and Frogging them

I suppose I'm the queen of frogging ... for every piece I knit, I probably try out three to five different designs until I like it. It's a good thing then, that I usually buy yarn, that can be treated that way (like Noro Kurayon, that doesn't look worse for being ribbed back a few times).

But I guess, I've got it right this time - and I hope I will write up the pattern eventually :)

Knitted Food

In one of the advertising "newspapers" (you know, the ones you get, if you have a store-card for the supermarket etc.) there was an article about a lady who creates knitted food installations. The article is available online (in german).

That made me google for her - and I found her website and her blog. I do love some of the photos there - there is even a free (german) pattern for a knitted sausage :)

I apologize that all the links are to german-speaking webpages, but really like the idea - and I like her knitting philosophy as expressed in the article: "[Stricken ...] helfe, ein Trauma zu verarbeiten, und tue auch Depressiven gut. Am besten sei Stricken ohne eigentlichen Zweck, .... Wenn man wie sie ohne Muster oder Vorlage arbeitet und sich das Objekt einfach vorstellt, fokussiert sich der Geist aufs innere Bild und lässt schlechte Gedanken vorbeiziehen."
Roughly translated: "Knitting helps to coping with trauma and is even good for depressive people. The best is knitting without a purpose ... When one works like her without patterns and just imagines the object, the mind focuses on an inner picture and lets bad thoughts disappear."

"Through Thick and Thin"-Schal

Dieser leichte Schal besteht nur aus
rechten Maschen und wird von Spitze zu Spitze gestrickt. Die Form entsteht durch Dreiecke, die mit verkürzten Reihen gebildet werden. Der Unterschied in der Struktur kommt durch die Verwendung von verschieden dicken Nadeln (3mm und 6mm). Daher auch der Name ("Through Thick and Thin" = durch dick und dünn).

The English version of this pattern can be found here.
Eine englische Version dieser Anleitung findet sich hier.

Nach dem Spannen ist der Schal ca. 170 cm lang und an der breitesten Stelle ca. 24 cm breit.




Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.

Materialien
ca. 80g 4-fädiges Garn
3mm Stricknadeln
6mm Stricknadeln
Nähnadel, um die Fadenenden zu vernähen

Techniken und Notation

• Ausser rechten Maschen musst du für diesen Schal fast nur verkürzte Reihen mit Doppelmasche stricken können. Dies funktioniert so: Man strickt bis zu der in der Anleitung angegebenen Masche und dreht die Arbeit. Das Garn liegt jetzt vor der Arbeit. Mit der rechten Nadel wird in die letzte Masche wie zum linksstricken eingestoche und das Garn wird dabei vollständig nach hinten gezogen, so dass es auf der Nadel wie doppelt aussieht (daher "Doppelmasche"). Eine sehr gute Erläuterung dieser Technik mit Fotos gibt es hier: http://alpistrickbuch.blogspot.ch/2009/09/verkurzte-reihen.html. Diese beiden Videos zeigen verkürzte Reihen mit Doppelmasche: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-cVsSgT-E4 und http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDN4zGqjBf0
  In der Anleitung wird dafür jeweils die Abkürzung d+z (drehen und ziehen) verwendet. Die dabei entstehende Doppelmasche wird in der Folgereihe nicht gezählt.

• Hier noch die anderen Abkürzungen, die in der Anleitung verwendet werden.
  HR: Hinreihe
  RR: Rückreihe
  kfb: aus einer Masche zwei herausstricken, indem man zuerst eine Masche aus dem vorderen, dann eine aus dem hinteren Maschenglied strickt (ein Video hierzu gibt es bei Drops Design)

Anleitung

Mit den 3mm Nadeln 10 Maschen anschlagen

Erstes Dreieck (3mm Nadeln)
Generell wird in den 3mm-Dreiecken jede verkürzte Reihe um 4 Maschen kürzer als die Vorreihe gestrickt.
Reihe 1 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 2 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (HR): re. M. bis 3 M. vor dem Ende der Reihe (d.h. Es sind noch 3 Maschen auf der linken Nadel) , d+z (=drehen und ziehen, siehe Abschnitt „Techniken und Notation“)
Reihe 4 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (HR): re. M. bis 4 M. vor der letzten Doppelmasche; d+z
Reihe 6 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 7 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 8 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 9 (HR): re. M.
Zu 6mm Nadeln wechseln, d.h. die nächste Reihe wird mit 6mm Nadeln abgestrickt.

6mm-Dreieck (6mm-Nadeln)
Reihe 1 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 2 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (RR): re. M. bis 2 vor Ende der Reihe, d+z
Reihe 4 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (RR): re. M. bis 3 vor der letzten Doppelmasche d+z
Reihe 6 (HR): re. M.
Reihen 5 and 6 so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 3 Maschen oder weniger auf dem Rückweg gestrickt werden (HR Reihe).
Weitere 3 Reihen stricken - zu 3mm Nadeln wechseln

3mm-Dreieck (3mm Nadeln) - zunehmend
Reihe 1 (HR): (5 re. M, kfb) wiederholen bis nur noch 5 M. oder weniger übrig sind, bis zum Ende  re. M. stricken
Reihe 2 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (HR): re. M. bis 3 vor dem Ende der Reihe; d+z
Reihe 4 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (HR): re. M. bis 4 vor der letzten Doppelmasche; d+z
Reihe 6 (RR): re. M.
Reihen 5 and 6 so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 4 Maschen oder weniger auf dem Rückweg gestrickt werden(RR Reihe)
Weitere 3 Reihen stricken - zu 6mm Nadeln wechseln

Das 6mm-Dreieck und das 3mm-Dreieck (zunehmend) insgesamt 11 mal wiederholen, d.h. es wurden insgesamt 12 3mm-Dreiecke und 11 6mm-Dreiecke gestrickt.
Ein weiteres 6mm-Dreieck stricken – und wieder zu 3mm-Nadeln wechseln.

3mm-Dreieck (3mm-Nadeln) - neutral
Reihe 1 (HR): (5 re. M, kfb) wiederholen bis nur noch 5 M. oder weniger übrig sind, bis zum Ende  re. M. stricken
Reihe 2 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (HR): re. M. bis 3 vor dem Ende der Reihe, d+z
Reihe 4 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (HR): re. M. bis 4 vor der letzten Doppelmasche d+z
Reihe 6 (RR): re. M.
Reihen 5 and 6 so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 4 Maschen oder weniger auf dem Rückweg gestrickt werden(RR Reihe)
2 Reihen re. M. stricken
Letzte Reihe (HR): (5 re. M., 2 M. zs.stricken) wiederholen bis nur noch 5 M. oder weniger übrig sind, bis zum Ende  re. M. stricken
Zu 6mm-Nadeln wechseln

6mm-Dreieck (6mm Nadeln) (gleich dem 6mm-Dreieck im zunehmenden Teil)
Reihe 1 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 2 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (RR): re. M. bis 2 vor dem Ende der Reihe, d+z
Reihe 4 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (RR): re. M. bis 3 vor der letzten Doppelmasche, d+z
Reihe 6 (HR): re. M.
Reihen 5 and 6 so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 3 Maschen oder weniger auf dem Rückweg gestrickt werden (HR Reihe).
3 Reihen rechte Maschen stricken – zu 3mm Nadeln wechseln.

3mm Dreieck (3mm Nadeln) - abnehmend
Reihe 1 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 2 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (HR): re. M. bis 3 vor dem Ende der Reihe, d+z
Reihe 4 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (HR): re. M. bis 4 vor der letzten Doppelmasche d+z
Reihe 6 (RR): re. M.
Reihen 5 and 6 so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 4 Maschen oder weniger auf dem Rückweg gestrickt werden(RR Reihe)
Knit 2 Reihen,
Letzte Reihe: (5 re. M., 2 M. zs.stricken) wiederholen bis nur noch 5 M. oder weniger übrig sind, bis zum Ende  re. M. stricken
Zu 6mm-Nadeln wechseln

Die 6mm- und 3mm-Dreiecke (abnehmend) abwechseln so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 10 Maschen auf den Nadeln sind.
Ein weiteres 6mm-Dreieck stricken.

3mm Dreieck (3mm needles) - Letztes Dreieck
Reihe 1 (HR): re. M.
Reihe 2 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 3 (HR): re. M. bis 3 vor end d+z
Reihe 4 (RR): re. M.
Reihe 5 (HR): re. M. bis 4 vor der letzten Doppelmasche d+z
Reihe 6 (RR): re. M.
Reihen 5 and 6 so lange wiederholen bis nur noch 4 Maschen oder weniger auf dem Rückweg gestrickt werden(RR Reihe)
2 weitere Reihen re. M. stricken
letzte Reihe: locker abketten

Die Enden vernähen und den Schal spannen.

Wenn du die Anleitung oben befolgst, sollte die Maschenanzahl und die Anzahl der gestrickten Reihen im zunehmenden Teil grösser werden (erst sehr langsam, dann schneller), und im abnehmenden Teil umgekehrt kleiner werden. Die Tabelle unten listet die genauen Zahlen auf.