Posts mit dem Label Easter werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Easter werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Freitag, 12. April 2019

Easter Bunny

I love knitting small seasonal and decorative pieces - especially for Easter and Christmas. This time I wanted to knit little easter bunnies to add a touch of cuteness to the Easter egg nests. I used a construction in the round and in stockinette stitch - knitted from the bottom up.
The finished bunnies are about 15 cm high - they are great to use up yarn leftovers.
Please note, this is fiddly work - esprecially the cast on, the first few rounds, and the finishing. But I really like the result.



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • light colored leftover yarn - I guess I used less than 10 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • 2.5mm knitting needles - I used Addi Trios, but you can also use dpns or circulars (magic loop method)
  • black embroidery floss or black fingering weight yarn to stitch on the face
  • an embroidery needle
  • stuffing - I used yarn leftovers and to give them some stability I even put a couple of pebbles right into the bottom of the lower half of their body

Techniques
  • Shadow Wrap Short Rows - used throughout the pattern: as shown in this YouTube video by Lee Meredith. A video by Miriam Felton that shows how to do a heel with shadow wraps can be found here on YouTube. However, the heel knitted here is knitted slightly different because here there are two rounds between the two parts of the heel, i.e. there won't be any triple stitches.
    • Knitting the Shadow Wraps: In a knit row (i.e. you're knitting on the outside of your socks), you knit up to the stitch where you want to turn, and then knit into the stitch in the row below, i.e. you insert the right hand needle from the front into the stitch below the next stitch and pull your working yarn through. Then you put the loop onto the left hand needle (creating a double stitch from the stitch below) - keeping the yarn on the back. Then you turn and your yarn is now in front, tighten it to make sure that all stitches have the same size and start to purl in the opposite direction. This sequence (knitting int the stitch below and turning) will be called kbelow in the pattern.
      If you're in a purl row, you purl into the stitch of the row below, i.e. insert the right hand needle from the back into the stitch below and draw your yarn through and put the stitch onto your left hand needle - creating a double stitch. The yarn is in front while you're doing this. Turn your work. The yarn is now on the back of your knitting. Make sure that the stitch is as tight as the other stitches on your needles and start knitting in the opposite direction. This sequence will be called pbelow in the pattern.
    • Knitting the double stitch.: When you come to a double stitch you can simply knit / purl it as one. This looks well when you're working it in the same direction it was created (i.e. the double stitch was created in a purl row and is also worked in a purl row). However, when you have to knit a double stitch that was created in a purl row, the following sequence made the result look a bit neater. I slipped the first loop of the double stitch to the right hand needle, turned the second loop so that the front leg was now in the back and put the first loop back facing the same way (i.e. the former front leg was now in the back). Then I knitted both loops through the back loop.


Instructions

Body

CO 8 sts an join in round
Round 1: k all
Round 2: * kfb repeat from * to end (16 sts)
Round 3: k all
Round 4: * k1, kfb repeat from * to end (24 sts)
Round 5: k all
Round 6: * kfb, k2 repeat from * to end (32 sts)
Round 7: k all
Round 8: * k2, kfb, k1 repeat from * to end  (40 sts)
Rounds 9-10: k all
Round 11: * k1, kfb, k3 repeat from * to end (48 sts)
Round 12: k10, kfb, kfb, kfb, kfb, kblelow, p8, pbelow, k to end (the little bulge that will be created during the next rounds will be the tail - it's on the first half of the round)
Round 13: k18, kbelow, p8, pbelow,, k7, kbelow, p6, pbelow, k to end
Round 14: k10, ssk, ssk, k2tog, k2tog, k to end  (your total stitch count is back to 48 sts)
Round 15-17: k all
Round 18: * k5, k2tog, k5 repeat from * to end (44 sts)
Round 19: k all
Round 20: * k2tog, k9 repeat from * to end (40 sts)
Round 21: k all
Round 22: * k2, k2tog, k6 repeat from * to end (36 sts)
Round 23: k all
Round 24: * k7, k2tog, repeat from * to end (32 sts)
Round 25: k all
Round 26: * k2, k2tog repeat from * to end (24 sts)
Round 27: k all
Start stuffing the lower part of the body



Head
Round 1: * k1, mk1, k2 repeat from * to end (32 sts)
Round 2: k all
Round 3: k16, k5, mk1, k6, mk1, k5 (the bulge that will be created now, is the snout, it's on the 2nd half of the round)
Round 4: k16, k5, kfb, kfb, k4, kfb, kfb, k5
Round 5: k4, mk1, k8, mk1, k4; k4, mk1, k14, mk1, k14
Round 6: k all
Round 7: k18; k4, ssk k12, k2tog k4
Round 8: k18; k5, ssk, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2tog, k5 (2 x 18 sts = 36 sts)
Round 9: k all
Round 10: k3, ssk, k4, k3, ssk, k4; k4, ssk, k6, k2tog, k4 (32 sts)
Round 11: k all
Round 12: * k2tog, k6 repeat from * to end (28 sts)
Round 13: k all
Round 14: * k4, k2tog, k1 repeat from * to end (24 sts)
Round 15: k all
Round 16: * k1, k2tog, k3 * repeat from * to end (20 sts)
I stitched on the face after finishing this. Then I stuffed the head.
However, it is an option to stitch on the face after you finish knitting the rabbit.

Ear 1
You now have 20 sts on your needles. To knit the first ear, you will only need the first 4 sts and the last 4 sts of that round. So:
Round 1: k2tog, k2, put the next 12 sts on two stitch holders (safety pins or scrap yarn), k2, k2tog
Round 2: (only knitting the stitches that are still on your needles): k all
Round 3: kfb, k1, kfb; kbf, k1, kfb (your piece should now look similar to illustration 1)
Round 4-6: k all
Round 7: kbf, k3, kfb, kfb, k3, kfb
Rounds 8-14: k all
Round 15: ssk, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, k2tog
Round 16-18: k all
Round 19: ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog
Round 20: k all
Round 21: sl1, k2tog, psso; sl1, k2tog, psso
BO

Illustrations

Ear 2
From the top, your piece should look like illustration 2. The second ear will be knitted over the 8 sts that are furthest away from the first ear, i.e. the stitches that are on the left of illustration 2.
Put 2 x 4 stitch from the stitch holders back on your needles. There will be 2 x 2 sts left over - unknitted and on the stitch holders.
Now knit rounds 1 to 21 of Ear 1 and BO.

Finishing
There are 2x2 unknitted stitches left on your stitch holders. Put these on your needles (see illustration 3).
If you haven't stuffed your bunny yet, now is the last chance to do it.
Connect the 2 rows of 2 stitches using the kitchener stitch.
Weave in ends.


Variations
If you want a bunny that is a bit bigger (like the one on the left on the picture above), you can knit a few more "k all" rounds between round 15-17 of the body.

Easter bunnies together with knitted Easter Eggs (free pattern available)


Donnerstag, 8. März 2018

Easter Eggs

Only three more weeks until Easter ... these cute little easter eggs are great to use up your self-striping fingering weight leftovers and maybe a funny project to try a three-dimensional piece of knitting.


A German version of this pattern is available here.
Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.


Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • about 5 grams of fingering weight yarn - I used leftovers from self-striping sock yarn
  • 2.5mm dpns or circulars
  • stuffing - I used (really) old yarn leftovers and waste fabric (cut into small pieces)
  • a removable stitch marker to mark the end of your round
  • a tapestry needle

Size
Your finished eggs will be a bit bigger than hen's eggs.



Techniques and Abbreviations
  • Magic Ring CO: Basically, the magic ring technique (from crochet) is used to cast on knitted stitches. There are several videos on Youtube that show the technique - I used something similar to the technique shown in the first video, but since this is fiddly work, just use the one that suits you best.
Alternatively, you can always use your preferred CO and later sew the hole closed with the tail.
  • [X]*Y, means, knit the sequence in brackets (X) Y times, e.g. [k2. kfb]*4 means knit the sequence "k2, kfb" four times.


Instructions
CO 8 sts and join in round - I used a Magic Ring CO (see link above). or just CO8 and join in round, if you do so, keep the tail outside of the egg, so that you can use it later to close the little hole. If you start with the Magic Ring CO, your piece will look like in illustration 1.
Round 1: k all - now your piece will look like in illustration 2.
Round 2: [kfb]*8
Round 3: k all
Round 4: [k1, kfb]*8
Round 5: k all
Round 6: k all
Round 7: [kfb, k2]*8
Round 8: k all
Round 9: k all
Round 10: [k2, kfb, k1]*8
Round 11: k all
Round 12: k all
Round 13: [k4, kfb]*8 - now your piece will look similar to illustration 3
Round 14: k all
Round 15: k all
Round 16: k all
Round 17: k all

Illustrations

Round 18: k all
Round 19: k all
Round 20: k all
Round 21: k all
Round 22: [k6, k2tog, k4]*4
Round 23: k all
Round 24: k all
Round 25: [k1, k2tog, k8]*4
Round 26: k all
Round 27: k all
Round 28: [k4, k2tog, k4]*4
Round 29: k all
Round 30: [k7, k2tog]*4
Round 31: k all
Round 32: [k1, k2tog, k1]*8
Round 33: k all
Round 34: k all
Start to put stuffing into your egg. Stuffing the egg will become more difficult the smaller the upper opening gets.  Now your piece will look similar to illustration 4.
Round 35: [k2tog, k1]*8
Round 36: k all
Round 37: k all
Round 38: [k2tog]*8
Round 39: [k2tog]*4
Cut yarn and thread it through a tapestry needle. Make sure your egg has enough stuffing.
Catch the remaining 4 sts with the needle and pull tight. Fasten off and weave in ends.





Ostereier

Bis Ostern sind es nur noch drei Wochen - also Zeit, um sich mit Osterdekorationen zu beschäftigen. Diese niedlichen gestrickten Ostereier sind fabelhaft, um bunte Garnreste zu verwenden. Außerdem könnten sie ein interessantes erstes Projekt sein, etwas drei-dimensionales zu stricken.


An english version of this pattern is avaible here.
Eine englische Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.


Creative Commons Lizenzvertrag
Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.






Material
  • circa 5 gramm 4-fädiges Sockengarn - ich habe Reste von buntem Sockengarn verwendet. 
  • 2.5mm Stricknadeln - ich habe eine Rundstricknadel verwendet (mit der sog. Magic-Loop-Technik), aber ein Nadelspiel geht natürlich auf
  • Füllmaterial zum Ausstopfen - ich habe (sehr) alte Garnreste verwendet und kleingeschnittene Stoffreste 
  • ein Maschenmarkierer um den Anfang der Runde zu markieren
  • eine Stopfnadel 

Größe
Die fertigen Eier sind etwas größer als normale Hühnereier.



Techniken und Abkürzungen 
Alternativ kann man natürlich ganz normal 8 Maschen anschlagen und zur Runde schließen. Dann muss man am Ende jedoch das kleine Loch zunähen. 
  • [X]*Y, bedeutet: stricke die Anweisung in der Klammer (also X) Y-mal. also z.B. [2 re.M., reVH]*4 bedeutet also: stricke die Sequenz "2 re.M., reVH" vier mal.
  • reVH - aus einer rechten Masche zwei herausstricken, also zuerst durchs vordere, dann durch das hintere Maschenglied stricken. Ein deutsches Video hierzu gibt es z.B. von Strick' Dich glücklich! (In englischen Strickanleitungen heißt dieser Stich kfb. Ich habe leider nicht herausgefunden, ob es eine "offiziellere" deutsche Bezeichnung dafür gibt. Falls jemand eine bessere Bezeichnung kennt, wäre ich über einen Hinweis dankbar.)
  • 2 M. re. zus. - zwei Maschen rechts zusammenstricken.


Anleitung
8 Maschen anschlagen und zur Runde schließen - ich habe dafür einen Maschenanschlag auf einem Fadenring verwendet (siehe Link oben), man kann aber auch einfach normal 8 Maschen anschlagen. Falls man sich für letzteres entscheidet, sollte man aufpassen, das kurze Garnende außen hängen zu lassen, um am Ende damit die Öffnung zunähen zu können. Das Strickstück sieht ähnlich aus wie in Illustration 1.

Runde 1: alle M. re. - das Strickstück sieht jetzt ähnlich aus wie Illustration 2
Runde 2: [reVH]*8
Runde 3: alle M. re.
Runde 4: [1 re. M., reVH]*8
Runde 5: alle M. re.
Runde 6: alle M. re.
Runde 7: [reVH, 2 re. M.]*8
Runde 8: alle M. re.
Runde 9: alle M. re.
Runde  10: [2 re. M., reVH, 1 re. M.]*8
Runde 11: alle M. re.
Runde  12: alle M. re.
Runde 13: [4 re. M., reVH]*8 - das Strickstück sollte nun ähnlich aussehen wie in Illustration 3
Runde  14: alle M. re.
Runde  15: alle M. re.
Runde 16: alle M. re.
Runde 17: alle M. re.

Illustrationen

Runde 18: alle M. re.
Runde 19: alle M. re.
Runde  20: alle M. re.
Runde 21: alle M. re.
Runde 22: [6 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 4 re. M.]*4
Runde 23: alle M. re. 
Runde 24: alle M. re.
Runde 25: [1 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 8 re. M.]*4
Runde 26: alle M. re.
Runde 27: alle M. re.
Runde 28: [4 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 4 re. M.]*4
Runde 29: alle M. re.
Runde 30: [7 re. M., 2 M. re. zus.]*4
Runde 31: alle M. re.
Runde 32: [1 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., 1 re. M.]*8
Runde 33: alle M. re. 
Runde 34: alle M. re.
Nun sollte man beginnen, das Füllmaterial einzufüllen, da die Öffnung in den nächsten Reihen nur noch kleiner wird und es schwieriger wird, das Ei auszustopfen. Das ganze sieht dann in etwa aus wie in Illustration 4.
Runde 35: [2 M. re. zus., 1 re. M.]*8
Runde 36: alle M. re. 
Runde 37: alle M. re.
Runde 38: [2 M. re. zus.]*8
Runde 39: [2 M. re. zus.]*4
Das Garn abschneiden und in eine Stopfnadel einfädeln. Jetzt ist der letzte Moment, um noch weiteres Füllmaterial einzufügen, so dass das Ei gut ausgestopft ist. Die letzten vier Maschen mit der Nadel durch das Garnende ziehen, zuziehen, das Garnende befestigen und vernähen.


Donnerstag, 1. März 2018

Easter Bunny Potholder

The nice thing about the changing seasons and holidays is that you can always have new decorations :) - and since Easter is approaching, I decided to knit a potholder with an easter bunny theme. This started to get me a bit towards an Easter mood - plus it gave me a good excuse to start buying chocolate eggs ... only for the photos, of course ;)
Similar to other potholder / washcloth patterns that I have published here (e.g. I ♥ Intarsia Washcloth, Tannenbäumchen Potholder), it is a combination of short rows and intarsia, which leads to a piece that looks good from both sides.



Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





Materials
  • a total of about 40 to 45 grams of DK weight cotton yarn - about 15 grams of C2 (bunny color) and 30 grams of C1 (background color)
  • 3.5 mm needles - if you use yarn of a different weight, use a needle that is one size below the size that the yarn calls for
  • scrap yarn for provisional CO
  • a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends


Techniques & Notation
  • Throughout the pattern, the following notation is used:  C1 (k4), C2 (k10, w+t, k10), C1 (k to end) means, knit 4 stitches in C1, change to C2 and knit 10 sts, do a wrap and turn, knit 10 stitches and then change back to C1 and k to end. I.e. color is indicated before the knitting instructions for that yarn and the knitting instructions for that yarn are given in brackets after the color. 
  • Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
    Even though this potholder is knit in garter stitch, I picked up the wraps, i.e. two wraps that are on top of each other. Here's a YouTube video that shows how to pick up your wraps (also by Very Pink Knits).
  • Note: in some rows the wrap has to be made just at the color change in the row below, e.g. Ridge B11 where you knit 11 sts in C1 and the 12 stitch that is to be wrapped was knitted in C2. In this case, it's advisable to change the color (as if to knit the next stitch in the new color), wrap and turn in the new color, and then to change back. This gives nicer color edges.
  • Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provisional CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
  • Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com. 
  • Weaving in (ends) while knitting: as shown in this YouTube video by So, I make stuff. This technique is used here to carry yarn of another color to point further along in your row while avoiding a long float.
  • Weaving in yarn while carrying it back: Draw a long loop of C2 (white in the illustration) to the point closer to the beginning of the rowwhere you want to knit it (picture 1). This gives you a really long float. Knit the first stitch (picture 2). Before knitting the second stitch, catch the float by put the left hand needle under the float (picutre 3) and then knit the stitch with your working yarn as usual. If you catch the float every second stitch, the WS will look as shown in picture 4. (This is a bit like catching floats in stranded knitting as shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter.)
    The last two techniques (this and weaving in (ends) while knitting) will are used to avoid a long float that runs parallel to your knitting - and to avoid cutting your yarn. 
  • Click to enlarge
Construction
This potholder is knitted in 5 parts. It starts with a provisional CO. Then each row is a stitch shorter than the last one, One part ends, when the row is only 1 stitch (plus 1 w+t) long - then the next part begins and each row is one stitch longer than the last one until all stitches are knitted and we've sucessfully knitted around a corner. Then the row length is getting shorter again for the next corner. 
After knitting around four corners and the two sides (CO and last row) are grafted in garter stitch.


Size
The pieces that I knitted measure about 20 cm by 20 cm.


Instructions
With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 20 sts

Part A
Setup row: C2 (k8), C1 (k12)
Ridge A1: C1 (sl1, k10), C2 (k8, w+t, k8), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A2: C1 (sl1, k3), C2 (k14 - over the first 7 sts weave C2 in while carrying it back, w+t, k14), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A3: C1 (sl1, k2), C2 (k14, w+t, k14), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A4: C1 (sl1, k3), C2 (k12, w+t, k12), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A5: C1 (sl1, k10 - over the last 7 sts 7 carry C2 with you and weave it in), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A6: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A7: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge A8: C1 (sl1, k11, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A9: C1 (sl1, k10, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A10: C1 (sl1, k9, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A11: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A12: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A13: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A14: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A15: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A16: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A17: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A18: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge A19: C1 (sl1, w+t, k to end)


Part B
Ridge B1: C1 (sl1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B2: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B3: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B4: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B5: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B6: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B7: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B8: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B9: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B10: C1 (sl1, k9, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B11: C1 (sl1, k10, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B12: C1 (sl1, k11, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B13: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B14: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B15: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k2, w+t, k2), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B16: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k3, w+t, k3), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B17: C1 (sl1, k12), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B18: C1 (sl1, k13), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B19: C1 (sl1, k14), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B20: C1 (sl1, k14), C2 (k5, turn, sl1, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B21: C1 (sl1, k13), C2 (k5, w+t, k5), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B22: C1 (sl1, k11), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B23: C1 (sl1, k10), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B24: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B25: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k5, w+t, k5), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B26: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B27: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k3, w+t, k3), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B28: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k2, w+t, k2), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B29: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B30: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge B31: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B32: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B33: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B34: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B35: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B36: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B37: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B38: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge B39: C1 (sl1, w+t, k to end)


Part C
Ridge C1: (sl1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C2: C1 (sl1, k1, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C3: C1 (sl1, k2, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C4: C1 (sl1, k3, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C5: C1 (sl1, k4, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C6: C1 (sl1, k5, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C7: C1 (sl1, k6, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C8: C1 (sl1, k7, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C9: C1 (sl1, k8, w+t, k to end)
Ridge C10: C1 (sl1, k9), C2 (w+t), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C11: C1 (sl, k9), C2 (k1, w+t, k1), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C12: C1 (sl, k7), C2 (k4, w+t, k4), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C13: C1 (sl, k6), C2 (k6, w+t, k6), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C14: C1 (sl, k5), C2 (k8, w+t, k8), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C15: C1 (sl, k5), C2 (k9, w+t, k9), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C16: C1 (sl, k4), C2 (k11, w+t, k11), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C17: C1 (sl, k4), C2 (k12, w+t, k12), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C18: C1 (sl, k3), C2 (k14, w+t, k14), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C19: C1 (sl, k3), C2 (k15, w+t, k15), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C20: C1 (sl, k3), C2 (k16, turn, sl, k15), C1 (k to end)
Ridge C21 = Ridge C19
Ridge C22 = Ridge C18
Ridge C23 = Ridge C17
...
Ridge C39 = Ridge C1

Part D
Ridge D1 = Ridge B39
Ridge D2 = Ridge B38
Ridge D3 = Ridge B37
...
Ridge D39 = Ridge B1

Part E
Ridge E1 = Ridge A19
Ridge E2 = Ridge A18
Ridge E3 = Ridge A17
...
Ridge E19 = Ridge A1

Take out your scrap yarn of the provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a knitting needle. Cut your yarns but leave tails long enough for grafting.
Graft in garter stitch: 12sts in C1 and 8 sts in C2.

If there is still a hole in the middle, use the C2 end to sew it closed.
Weave in ends.

Chart
The chart below shows one half of the potholder. The numbers indicate the number of stitches per color of each ridge (including the slipped stitch at the beginning of each row). The brown number gives the stitches in C2 and the black number the stitches in C1.
The grey highlighted rows are added for readability only.

Chart - click to enlarge



Mittwoch, 1. März 2017

Easter Bunny Egg Cozy

Lent started this week with Ash Wednesday. This means that Holy week is only 40 days away and it's time to start with some easter decoration projects.

This cute little knitted egg cozy is shaped like bunny head. It keeps your breakfast eggs warm and doubles as a lovely table decoration. It's knitted flat, all in garter stitch and in one piece - with short rows for shaping. It's a fun project for using up some leftover yarn and maybe nice for trying out short rows or a small 3D project for the first time.




Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials
  • less than 10 grams of sports weight yarn
  • 3mm needles
  • a tapestry needle for grafting and for embroidering the face
  • about 40 cm of scrap in a contrast color (I used fingering weight, you can use embroidery floss as well)
  • scrap yarn for provisional CO


Techniques


Instructions
Provisionally CO 24 sts
Setup row: k all
Ridge 1: k11, w+t, k to end
Ridge 2: k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3: k6, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4: k8, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5: k all, turn, k all
Ridge 6: k22, w+t, k9, w+t,
   k8, w+t, k7, w+t,
   k6, w+t, k5, w+t
   k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7: k all, turn, BO13, k to end
Ridge 8: k all, turn, k1, ssk, k to end
Ridge 9 and 10: k all, turn, k all
Ridge 11: k all, turn, k1, kfb, k to end
Ridge 12: k all, turn, k all
Ridge 13: k all, CO13 (with knitted CO), turn, k all
Ridge 14: k20, w+t, k4, w+t
   k5, w+t, k6, w+t
   k7, w+t, k8, w+t
   k9, w+t, k to end
Ridge 15: k11, w+t, k to end
Ridge 16: k4, w+t, k to end

Ridge 17: k6, w+t, k to end
Ridge 18: k8, w+t, k to end
Ridge 19: k all, turn, k all
Ridge 20: 22, w+t, k9, w+t,
   k8, w+t, k7, w+t,
   k6, w+t, k5, w+t
   k4, w+t, k to end
Ridge 21: k all, turn, BO13, k to end
Ridge 22: k all, turn, k1, ssk, k to end
Ridge 23 and 24: k all, turn, k all
Ridge 25: k all, turn, k1, kfb, k to end
Ridge 26: k all, turn, k all
Ridge 27: k all, CO13 (with knitted CO), turn, k all
Ridge 28:  k20, w+t, k4, w+t
   k5, w+t, k6, w+t
   k7, w+t, k8, w+t
   k9, w+t, k to end

Now your piece should look similar to picture 1. Put the stitches from the provisional CO on another needle, cut yarn, fold piece along the horizontal middle line and graft live stitches from the two needles together in garter stitch. Now your piece should look like photo no. 2.

Now, sew the upper edge together along the dotted line in photo 2. Turn back right sides out and it's finished.

Thread your tapestry needle with the yarn in contrast color and embroider face according to chart below (or the way you like it best).




Chart
The chart can be used as a complete pattern. The number on the top of a ridge indicates the number of k-stitches, i.e. of blank rectangles (the w+t is the next stitch).

Easter Bunny Egg Cozy Chart - click on picture to enlarge or here for chart as PDF (link updated 03.10.21)
 








This post was featured at the New Tuesday PINspiration Link Party, at the Funtastic Friday Link Party No. 122 and at the Sew Can Do Easter Craftastic Monday Link Party. Thank you!

Tuesday Pin-spiration Link Party     Funtastic Friday Link Party