__without short rows__.

It starts similar to the U-Turn Mitts or the U-Turn Slippers. It has semicircular increases to shape the dome over your head, decreases for the slope on the other side and is finished with a three-needle bind-off. Because of its unique construction, it's great to show off your variegated or self-striping yarn.

The pattern contains one stitch-by-stitch version for exactly the same size that I knitted, an explanation on how to adapt it to a different sizes or different weights of yarn, and a generic version of the pattern.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Eine

**deutsche Version**dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.A

**german version**of this pattern is available here.**Materials**

- about 50 grams of fingering weight yarn
- 3.25mm needles - I used circulars with an 80 cm cord
- three stitch markers
- a third knitting needle for the three needle BO
- a tapestry needle to weave in ends

**Techniques & Notation**

**Judy's Magic Cast-On**is a technique that gives you live stitches on both sides of your needle - it is generally used for toe-up socks (e.g. in this pattern), but it can be used for other purposes as well. Here's a written description (from Knitty) and here's a YouTube-video by Cat Bordhi and another YouTube-video by Very Pink Knits.**Three-Needle Bind-Off:**https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0**Knitting a flat circle - or in case of this pattern a semicircle:**The technique for knitting a flat circle has been described a few times on this blog, e.g. in the "Zoom Out Mitts"-Post. Basically it consists of doing 8 increases (evenly spaced out in one round) every other row, and varying the starting point for the first increase to avoid an octagon pattern.In this pattern only a semicircle is knitted. This means that there will be only 4 increases on every RS row - and they will be__started at a random stitch__within the first quarter of the half circle.

As an increase I used kfb and as decrease I used ssk, but you can use other stitches as well, e.g. a make 1 knit stitch (mk1) as increasing stitch (which may look a bit neater) or a k2tog as a decrease stitch.**[X]*Y**, means, knit the sequence in brackets (X) Y times, e.g. [k2. kfb]*3 means knit the sequence "k2, kfb" three times.

**Gauge and Size**

In garter stitch 11 ridges (=22 rows) gave 5 cm in height, and 12 sts gave 5 cm in width.

The finished piece has about 48 to 50 cm of circumference (at the lower edge - ribbing) and is 23 cm high. However, the ribbing stretches easily to 56 cm circumfernce.

I'd advise you to measure the circumference of the intended wearer's head as well as the wished height of the crown.

**Construction**

Knitted flat an in a U-shape around the first magic CO. Each row consists of a garter stitch part (ribbing - at the beginning and end of each row) and a semicircular bit around the turning point of the U. The slope is achieved by changing the number of increases and decreases. See schematic below.

Construction - click to enlarge |

Once you've reached the middle of your piece, you will knit the same backwards, i.e. there will be decreases instead of increases. That means you start with no decreases, then switch to 1 decrease every 2nd row, then 3 decreases every 2nd row and finally 4 decreases every 2nd row. Until there are only 2x20 stitches left. The piece is finished with a three-needle BO.

The letters in the schematic refer to the parts of the pattern instructions below.

**Instructions**

These are the specific instructions for a hat with the same yarn weight, same gauge and same size that I knitted. If you'd like to adapt the pattern, see "How to Adapt to Another Head Size - or Generic Instructions" below.

Do a magic CO of 2x20 stitches, i.e. you have 20 sts on each needle

Now turn your needles around in a way that you're looking at the garter stitch bumps.

All rows of the tip will be knitted in a U-shape, i.e. you knit the stitches on the first needle turn the piece upside down (this point will be called turning-point ("TP") and knit the stitches on the other needle. Then you turn your knitting to the WS and knit back.

__Part A__

Row 1 (WS): k18, place marker, p2, TP, p2, place marker, k18 - the markers will separate the ribbing from he upper (sloped) part.

Row 2 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb]*4, k18 - your piece will look similar to picture 1 - the U-shape will not yet be visible

Row 3 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p4, TP, p4), k18

Row 4 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, kfb]*4, k18

Row 5 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p6, TP, p6), k18

Row 6 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb, k2]*4, k18

Row 7 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p8, TP, p8), k18Row 8 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k1]*4, k18

Row 9 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p10, TP, p10), k18 - now your piece will look roughly like photo 2; the inverted U will start to become visible.

Row 10 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, kfb, k3]*4, k18

Row 11 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p12, TP, p12), k18

Row 12 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, kfb, k1]*4, k18

Row 13 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p14, TP, p14), k18

Row 14 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb, k6]*4, k18

Row 15 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p16, TP, p16), k18

Row 16 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, kfb, k3]*4, k18

Row 17 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p18, TP, p18), k18

Row 11 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p12, TP, p12), k18

Row 12 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, kfb, k1]*4, k18

Row 13 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p14, TP, p14), k18

Row 14 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb, k6]*4, k18

Row 15 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p16, TP, p16), k18

Row 16 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, kfb, k3]*4, k18

Row 17 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p18, TP, p18), k18

Illustrations |

__Part B__

From now on, there will be only 3 increases in every RS row.

Row 18 (RS): sl1, k17, [k6, kfb, k5]*3, k18

Row 19 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p39), k18

Row 20 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k10]*3, k18

Row 21 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p42), k18

Row 22 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, kfb, k3]*3, k18

Row 23 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p45), k18

Row 24 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, kfb, k13]*3, k18

Row 25 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p48), k18

Row 26 (RS): sl1, k17, [k11, kfb, k4]*3, k18

Row 27 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p51), k18

Row 28 (RS): sl1, k17, [k5, kfb, k11]*3, k18

Row 29 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p54), k18

Row 30 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, kfb, k4]*3, k18

Row 31 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p57), k18

Row 32 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k16]*3, k18

Row 33 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p60), k18

A few rows into part B, your piece should look similar to illustration 3.

Depending on the length of your circular needles, you may switch from magic loop to just knitting without a piece of cord sticking out. When I reached that point, I put a stitch marker at the TP - this makes it easier to count your stitches if you want to make sure that you've increased/decreased correctly.

__Part C__

From now on there will be only 2 increases in every RS row.

Row 34 (RS): sl1, k17, [k20, kfb, k9]*2, k18

Row 35 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p62), k18

Row 36 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k28]*2, k18

Row 37 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p64), k18

Row 38 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, kfb, k21]*2, k18

Row 39 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p66), k18

Row 40 (RS): sl1, k17, [k25, kfb, k7]*2, k18

Row 41 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p68), k18

Row 42 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, kfb, k20]*2, k18

Row 43 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p70), k18

Row 43 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p70), k18

__Part D__

From now on there will only be 1 increase in every RS row.

Row 44 (RS): sl1, k17, k27, kfb, k to next marker, k18

Row 45 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p71), k18

Row 45 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p71), k18

Row 46 (RS): sl1, k17, k53, kfb, k to next marker, k18

Row 47 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p72), k18

Row 47 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p72), k18

Row 48 (RS): sl1, k17, k32, kfb, k to next marker, k18

Row 49 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p73), k18

Row 50 (RS): sl1, k17, k39, kfb, k to next marker, k18Row 49 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p73), k18

Row 51 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p74), k18

__Parts E__

From now on, there will be no increases

Row 52 (RS): sl1, k to end

Row 53 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p74), k18

Measure the lower edge of the piece (at the garter stitch ribbing) when stretched comfortably. Check whether it measures half of your head circumference.

__Part F__(mirrors part E)

Row 54 (RS): sl1, k to end

Row 55 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p74), k18

__Part G__(mirrors part D)

One decrease per RS row.

Row 56 (RS): sl1, k17, k38, ssk, k to next marker, k18

Row 57 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p73), k18

Row 58 (RS): sl1, k17, k31, ssk, k to next marker, k18

Row 59 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p72), k18

Row 60 (RS): sl1, k17, k52, ssk, k to next marker, k18

Row 61 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p71), k18

Row 62 (RS): sl1, k17, k26, ssk, k to next marker, k18

Row 63 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p70), k18

__Part H__(mirrors part C)

Two decreases per RS row.

Row 64 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, ssk, k20]*2, k18

Row 65 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p68), k18

Row 66 (RS): sl1, k17, [k25, ssk, k7]*2, k18

Row 67 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p66), k18

Row 68 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, ssk, k21]*2, k18

Row 69 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p64), k18

Row 70 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k29]*2, k18Row 67 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p66), k18

Row 68 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, ssk, k21]*2, k18

Row 69 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p64), k18

Row 71 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p62), k18

Row 72 (RS): sl1, k17, [k20, ssk, k9]*2, k18

Row 73 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p60), k18

__Part I__(mirrors part B)

Three decreases per RS row.

Row 74 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k16]*3, k18

Row 75 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p57), k18

Row 76 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, ssk, k4]*3, k18

Row 77 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p54), k18

Row 78 (RS): sl1, k17, [k5, ssk, k11]*3, k18

Row 79 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p51), k18

Row 80 (RS): sl1, k17, [k11, ssk, k4]*3, k18

Row 81 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p48), k18

Row 82 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, ssk, k13]*3, k18

Row 83 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p45), k18

Row 84 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, ssk, k3]*3, k18

Row 85 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p42), k18

Row 86 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k10]*3, k18

Row 87 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p39), k18

Row 88 (RS): sl1, k17, [k6, ssk, k5]*3, k18

Row 89 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p36), k18

__Part J__(mirrors part A)

Four decreases per RS row.

Row 90 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, ssk, k3]*4, k18

Row 91 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p32), k18

Row 92 (RS): sl1, k17, [k6, ssk]*4, k18Row 93 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p28), k18

Row 94 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, ssk, k1]*4, k18

Row 95 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p24), k18

Row 96 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, ssk, k3]*4, k18

Row 97 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p20), k18

Row 98 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k1]*4, k18

Row 99 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p16), k18

Row 100 (RS): sl1, k17, [ssk, k2]*4, k18

Row 101 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p12), k18Row 102 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, ssk]*3, k1, k2tog, k18 - I chose a k2tog (instead of an ssk as the 4th decrease, to get a clean edge towards the garter stitch ribbing)

Row 103 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p8), k18

Row 104 (RS): sl1, k17, [ssk]*3, k2tog, k18

Row 105 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p4, TP, p4), k18

Now there should be the same number of stitches left that you started with, i.e. 2x20.

Turn inside out, hold right sides together and do a three needle BO of the last stitches (see illustration 4).

Weave in ends and turn back right sides out.

**How to Adapt to Another Size**

If you have different gauge, have a different size head or use different yarn altogether, you can adapt the pattern to your size. Basically, you can adapt two things:

- the number of stitches on both ends that are knitted in garter stitch and that form the ribbing - the height of your ribbing - and
- the number of rows with 4 in/decreases, 3 in/decreases, 2 in/decreases, 1 in/decrease and no increase - this changes the shape of the slope.

I'd suggest that of the total number of rows you need to reach the middle of the piece,

- you use about 1/3 for RS rows with 4 in/decreases
- about the same number for RS rows with 3 in/decreses
- about 1/6 for RS rows with 2 in/decreases
- you devide the remaining rows equally into rows 1 in/decrease and no in/decrease.

As you can see in the instructions above - for me it was a total of 26 rows to reach the middle, 8 of which with 4 increases, 8 with 3 increases, 5 with 2, and 4 with 1 increase - which is roughly the distribution above.

When you change from 4 increases to 3 increases, it's possible that you have a stitch count between the markers, that is not divisible by 3. In this case, you need to distribute the new increases as evenly as possible throughout the stockinette stitches. The same goes for all other changes in the number of in/decreases.

For a wider circumference, you can just add a few rows, without any increases or decreases in the middle of the piece. For a higher dome, do more rows with 4 and 3 increases, and fewer with 2 and 1 increases.

__Important:__With all adjustments, make sure to knit two equal halves, i.e. do the same decreases during the 2nd half then you did increases during the 1st. That's why I'd advise to take notes of the knitted rows.

**Generic Instructions**

With magic CO cast on the number of stitches you want for the ribbing plus 2 to start the semicircle increases and all of that on both sides of the needles (i.e. calculated number of stitches times two).

So your first row after the magic CO would be;

*Row 1 (WS): k to 2 bef turning point ("TP"), place marker, k2, then turn, k2, place marker, k to end*

__Part A__

You start with a few rows with 4 increases per RS row, ie.

*Row 2 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 4 increases (e.g. kfb) among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first quarter, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you've reached about a third of half your circumference

Important: Take notes of the number of repeats that you work for all parts. You'll need these numbers to do an equal amount of decrease rows.

__Part B__

Now you change to only 3 increases per RS row, i.e.

*Row 4 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 3 increases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first third, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 5 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until you've reached about two thirds of half your circumference - so roughly the same number of repeats in part A.

Also, take a note of the number of rows you worked with 3 increases.

__Part C__

Then you switch to 2 increases per RS row.

*Row 6 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 2 increases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first half, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat these rows about a half of the repeats of part A.

__Part D__

Then you switch to 1 increases per RS

*Row 6 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker randomly do 1 increase among your knit stitches, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat these rows for about half of the remaining rows until you've reached half of your circumference

__Part E__

Then to switch to no increases.

*Row 8 (RS): sl1, k to end*

*Row 9 (WS): sl1, k to end*

Repeat these rows until you've reached half of the intended circumference

Now you start the second half, ad you basically knit the mirror image of the first.

__Part F__

First the rows with no increases:

*Row 10 (RS): sl1, k to end*

*Row 11 (WS): sl1, k to end*

Repeat the rows the same number of times as in part E.

__Part G__

Only one decrease per RS row.

*Row 12 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker randomly do 1 decrease (eg. ssk) among your knit stitches, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 13 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat these rows the same number of times as the rows in part D.

__Part H__

Two decreases per RS row.

*Row 14 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 2 decreases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first half, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 15 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat rows the same number of time as the rows of part C

__Part I__

Three decreases per RS row.

*Row 16 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 3 decreases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first third, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 17 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat rows 16 and 17 the same number of times as the rows of part B

__Part J__

And towards the end, four decreases per RS row.

*Row 18 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 4 decreases (e.g. ssk) among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first quarter, slip marker, k to end*

*Row 19 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end*

Repeat rows 18 and 19 the same number of times as the rows of part A.

Now there should be the same numer of stitches that you started with.

Turn inside out, hold right sides together and do a three needle BO of the last stitches.

Weave in ends, turn back right sides out and enjoy wearing your hat.

U-Turn Hat and U-Turn Mitts |

Thank you for the very detailed instructions! I like this hat very much! Dot

AntwortenLöschenThank you. Happy knitting ♥

LöschenI wish i could knit and not just crochet, I love the look.

AntwortenLöschenThanks. I have thought about a crochet version, but this may take a while ...

LöschenGENIUS !!! Brava and many thanks :)

AntwortenLöschenThank you very much ♥

LöschenThanks for sharing such a wonderful pattern.

AntwortenLöschenDanke für die tolle Anleitung, würde mich interessieren was für ein Garn hat so einen schönen Farbverlauf.

AntwortenLöschenViele Grüße

Danke dir. Das war Garn, dass ich noch im Stash hatte. Leider habe ich die Banderole nicht mehr gefunden - und auch auf Ravelry bei den Projektnotizen o.ä. habe ich das dummerweise nicht dokumentiert. Ich weiss nur, dass ich es Anfang 2015 in Bern gekauft habe ...

LöschenTut mir leid.

Love the look.

AntwortenLöschenThanks ♥ ♥

LöschenWhat a clever pattern. Beautiful shape and the pattern is so well written. Very easy to follow and adapt. Thank you.

AntwortenLöschen