Mittwoch, 2. Mai 2018

Color Explosion Mitts

I had the idea for these fingerless gloves in the summer of 2014, but I couldn't make it work. During the last Xmas holidays I tried it once again - this time with different yarn and more experience with short rows under my belt. However, I still knitted two mitts that didn't quite fit and had to be frogged - but the third try went well enough. Now I really like the look of them.
These fingerless gloves are knitted flat and each in one piece. They use short rows for shaping
Knitted flat, in one piece each, makes use of short rows for shaping. They are great for variegated yarn with a  really short color gradient
They are sort of the opposite construction to my Starburst Mitts, i.e. the short rows don't focus around the thumb but around a point close to the outer wrist.


Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and son on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • three 2.5mm needles - I used short dpns, but you can use straight or circulars as well
  • scrap yarn for provisional CO
  • two removable stitch holders (e.g. safety pins)
  • a stitch holder or long safety pin
  • tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends


Techniques
  • Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
  • Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
  • Three Needle Bind Offhttps://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
  • Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
  • Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, pick up the selvedge stitch from the opposite side (illustration 1), slip the first stitch of the new row as if to purl (with yarn in front, illustration 2), bring the yarn backwards, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk, illustration 3); this will be called ssk+c (ssk and connect) in this pattern - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q
    Alternatively, you can just do a slip stitch edge in sections F and G and sew it to the edge of sections C and B in the end.
ssk+c illustrations (click to enlarge)

Gauge and Size
The finished fingerless gloves (as knitted by me) measure about 17 cm in height, 15 cm in circumference at the top, and about 18 cm at the bottom.
11 sts gave 4 cm in width and 9 ridges (i.e. 18 garter stitch rows) 3 cm in height.

The pattern is given in one size only, but there is some advice on how to adapt it to different sizes.



Construction

One gloves is knitted flat in 8 sections (called sections A to H). To get the effect of ... there will be short rows varying in length. To achieve the shape there will be increases or decreases close to the outer edge or - for the thumb - another shorter provisional CO and leaving stitches on a stitch marker will be used.
You start out with a short provisional cast on and continue with short rows while increasing on the edge (section A), in section B there are decreases, in section C increases again as well as newly cast on stitches as well as putting stitches on the stitch holder when half of the thumb is finished. In section D there will be decreases again. From section E on, you will basically knit sections D to H backwards, i.e. increases will be substituted with decreases and vice versa.
In sections F and G you will attach the first stitch of each row to the edge stitch of the corresponding row of sections C and B. In section F you will also use the stitches from the stitch holder to complete the thumb. To finish the thumb completely, a short three-needle bind off is used before continuing with section F. After finishing section H, you've completed a whole circle now and two rows of live stitches are closed by grafting in garter stitch.


Instructions

Section A
With scrap yarn do a provsional CO of 14 sts
Row A0: k all
Ridge A1: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge A2: sl1, k8, w+t, k7, kfb, k1 [now there are 15 sts on your needles, subsequently if the stitch count changes, I will give the new stitch count at the end of the row in square brackets, the number of stitches on your needles - not the number of stitches you just knitted]
Ridge A3: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge A4: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge A5: sl1, k8, w+t, k7, kfb, k1 [16 sts]
Ridge A6: sl1, k11, w+t, k12
Ridge A7: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge A8: sl1, k13, w+t, k12, kfb, k1 [17 sts]
Ridge A9: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge A10: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge A11: sl1, k13, w+t, k12, kfb, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge A12: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge A13: sl1, k13, w+t, k12, kfb, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge A14: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge A15: sl1, k5, w+t, k4, kfb, k1 [20 sts] - place a removable stitchmarker into the first stitch of the last ridge (called stitch marker A)

Section B
Ridge B1: sl1, k19, turn, sl1, k19; place stitch marker in first stitch on needle (this marker will be called marker A)
Ridge B2: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge B3: sl1, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge B4: sl1, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge B5: sl1, k14, w+t, k12, ssk, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge B6: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge B7: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge B8: sl1, k15, w+t, k13, ssk, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge B9: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge B10: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge B11: sl1, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge B12: sl1, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge B13: sl1, k7, w+t, k8

Section C
Ridge C1: sl1, k17, turn, sl1, k17
Ridge C2: sl1, k12, w+t, k13
Ridge C3: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge C4: sl1, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge C5: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge C6: sl1, k5, w+t, k4, kfb, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge C7: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge C8: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge C9: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge C10: sl1, k12, w+t, k11, kfb, k1 [20 sts]
Ridge C11: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge C12: sl1, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge C13: sl1, k12, w+t, k11, kfb, k1 [21 sts]
Ridge C14: sl1, k11, w+t, k12
Ridge C15: sl1, k9, w+t, k8, kfb, k1 [22 sts]
Ridge C16: sl1, k6, w+t, k7; provisionally CO 8 sts, and continue to knit these 8 sts - see photos 1 and 2 in illustrations A below [30 sts]
Ridge C17: sl1, k6, ktbl, ktbl, k8, w+t, k17
Ridge C18: sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge C19: sl1, k14, w+t, k13, kfb, k1 [31 sts]
Ridge C20: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge C21: sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge C22: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge C23: sl1, k21, w+t, k22
Ridge C24: sl1, k18, w+t, k12 - and put the last 7 sts on a stitch holder (see photo 3 in illustration A below) [24 sts]
Ridge C25: sl1, k6, w+t, k5, kfb, k1 [25 sts]
Ridge C26: sl1, k16, w+t, k15, kfb, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge C27: sl1, k7, w+t, k6, kfb, k1 [27 sts]
Ridge C28: sl1, k21, w+t, k20, kfb, k1 [28 sts]  - place a removable stitchmarker into the first stitch of the last ridge (called stitch marker B)
Illustrations A (click to enlarge)

Section D

Ridge D1: sl1, k27, turn, sl1, k27, place stitch marker in first stitch on needle (this marker will be called marker B)
Ridge D2: sl1, k4, w+t, k2, ssk, k1 [27 sts]
Ridge D3: sl1, k7, w+t, k5, ssk, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge D4: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge D5: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge D6: sl1, k15, w+t, k13, ssk, k1 [25 sts]
Ridge D7: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge D8: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge D9: sl1, k22, w+t, k23
Ridge D10: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge D11: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge D12: sl1, k18, w+t, k16, ssk, k1 [24 sts]
Ridge D13: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge D14: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge D15: sl1, k14, w+t, k15

Ridge D16: sl1, k23, pick up 2 sts from the space between the last st and the first st of the very first row, turn, sl1, ssk, k23 (this ensures that there won't be a hole in the middle of the mitt, see photo 4 of illustrations A) [25 sts]

Section E
Ridge E1: sl1, k14, w+t, k15
Ridge E2: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge E3: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge E4: sl1, k18, w+t, k17, kfb, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge E5: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge E6: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge E7: sl1, k24, w+t, ssk, k22 [25 sts] (the ssk evens out the 2nd of the stitches that was picked up at the end of section D)
Ridge E8: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge E9: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge E10: sl1, k15, w+t, k14, kfb, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge E11: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge E12: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge E13: sl1, k7, w+t, k6, kfb, k1 [27 sts]
Ridge E14: sl1, k4, w+t, k3, kfb, k1 [28 sts]
Ridge E15: sl1, k27, turn, sl1, k27

Section F
Ridge F1: sl1, k21, w+t, k19, ssk, k1 [27 sts]
Now your piece will look similar to photo 5 of illustrations B below. To attach the edges of sections C and B to F and G, you need to fold the piece over as shown in photo 6 of illustrations B. The first stitch to pick up from the opposite edge is the stitch just below marker B - or the edge stitch of ridge C28. In the subsequent rows, always connect to the next stitch below.
When you're connecting the two sides like this, there will be a visible ridge - however, later the piece will be turned inside out and this ridge will be on the inside of the mitt.

Ridge F2: ssk+c (i.e. connect the first st of your working row to the edge stitch of row C28), k7, w+t, k5, ssk, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge F3: ssk+c (i.e. connect to the next edge stitch of section C, i.e. the edge st of row C27), k16, w+t, k14, ssk, k1 [25 sts]
Ridge F4: ssk+c (i.e. connect to the next edge stitch of section C, i.e. the edge st of row C26), k6, w+t, k4, ssk, k1 [24sts]
Ridge F5: ssk+c, k18, w+t, k19 - put the 7 sts from the stitch holder on your needles and continue knitting these 7 sts (see photo 7 in illustration B below) [31 sts]
Ridge F6: sl1, k21, w+t, k22
Ridge F7: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F8: sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge F9: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge F10: sl1, k14, w+t, k12, ssk, k1 [30 sts]
Ridge F11:  sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge F12: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F13: put the 8 sts from the provisional CO (of section C) on a needle and do a three needle BO of 8 stitches, you're connecting the lower edge of the thumb of both sides (see photo 8 of illustration below), and continue knitting:  k6, w+t, k7 [22 sts]
Ridge F14: ssk+c, k9, w+t, k7, ssk, k1 [21 sts]
Ridge F15: ssk+c, k11, w+t, k12
Ridge F16: ssk+c, k12, w+t, k10, ssk, k1 [20 sts]
Ridge F17: ssk+c, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge F18: ssk+c, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge F19: ssk+c, k12, w+t, k10, ssk, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge F20: ssk+c, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge F21: ssk+c, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F22: ssk+c, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge F23: ssk+c, k5, w+t, k3, ssk, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge F24: ssk+c, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F25: ssk+c, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge F26: ssk+c, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge F27: ssk+c, k12, w+t, k13
Ridge F28: ssk+c, k17, turn, sl1, k17
Illustrations B (click to enlarge)
Section G
Ridge G1: ssk+c, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge G2: ssk+c, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge G3: ssk+c, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge G4: ssk+c, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge G5: ssk+c, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge G6: ssk+c, k15, w+t, k14, kfb, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge G7: ssk+c, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge G8: ssk+c, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge G9: ssk+c, k14, w+t, k13, kfb, k1 [20 sts]
Ridge G10: ssk+c, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge G11: ssk+c, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge G12: ssk+c, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge G13: ssk+c, k19, turn, sl1, k 19 (on the side of section B, you should've reached marker A)

Section H
Ridge H1: sl1, k5, w+t, k3, ssk, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge H2: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge H3: sl1, k13, w+t, k11, ssk, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge H4: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge H5: sl1, k14, w+t, k12, ssk, k1 [17 sts]
Ridge H6: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge H7: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge H8: sl1, k12, w+t, k10, ssk, k1 [16 sts]
Ridge H9: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge H10: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge H11: sl1, k9, w+t, k7, ssk, k1 [16 sts]
Ridge H12: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge H13: sl1, k14, w+t, k15
Ridge H14: sl1, k8, w+t, k6, ssk, k1 [15 sts]
Ridge H15: sl1, k10, w+t, k11

Put the stitches of the provisional CO of section A on a needle (this will give you only 14 sts), use the tail of your CO to pick up one more stitch from the selvedge right in the middle of the mitts (similar to what you did at the end of section D). Now you have 15 sts on both needles - and the hole in the middle will be closed a bit.

Graft both sides together in garter stitch.
Use the tail to sew the hole in the middle closed and weave in ends.

Turn mitt right sides out.
Make two - and block them gently.



How to Adapt the Pattern to Different Hand Sizes

To change height and width of these gloves you obviously need to adjust the number of stitches you cast on ... but, a change in the number of stitches also leads to other changes as well, i.e. one stitch more, usually means one short row more in each section.
If you knit a few stitches more you need to increase the number of (short) rows per section as well - by the same count. E.g. (with the gauge I had) if you want to add about 2 cm to the height and circumference of the mitts, you need to CO 3 sts (3 sts roughly equal 1 cm, and this centimeter is added twice - once at the lower edge (in sections A and H) and once at the top (sections D and E) - this also goes for the circumference, if you add 3 sts, they add 1 cm to the width in sections B and C, and also 1 cm in sections F and G). To balance this you need to knit short row 3 ridges more in each section.
I'd advise to add these short row ridges randomly inbetween the other ridges of each section - and to vary the lenght of these short row ridges. E.g. if the ridge before was rather short (less than 10 sts long), I'd add a longer short row ridge, e.g. 20 sts long - making sure that you don't put one w+t directly above another of a previous ridge. This ensures an even distribution of short rows.



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