Circle Beret

In my part of the world it's getting colder and colder each day. When I leave the house early in the morning, a hat is just what I need to keep warm. If you feel the same, you can knit yourself this easy circle beret. It is started at the crown and increases in circles - just like the Circle Mitts I published a few years ago. Once it is wide enough you decrease and end with a few rows of ribbing.
The beginning may be a bit fiddly, but basically this pattern is suited for beginners and is a lovely showcase for selfstriping yarn. Besides knit and purl stitch you need to be able to do mk1-increases and a basic decrease (e.g. ssk).

There are two versions of the pattern text. One (longer one) exactly to the size, yarn (Aran weight) and gauge that I knitted. And a shorter one, that is written in a general way to fit different sized heads and different weight yarn. The longer version can also be used to get an idea of how the pattern works, e.g. to get you started.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• one skein (50 grams) of Aran weight yarn - I used Adriafil Zebrino - or another yarn of a different weight
• 4.5 mm circular needles (you can used dpn's, too) - or the needles the yarn calls for
• 4 mm circular needles - or needles a size smaller than the yarn calls for
• a stitch marker to mark the end of the round
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Knitting a flat circle: Generally, a flat circle is knitted as follows.
  CO8 and join in round
  Round 1: k
  Round 2: *k1 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 2nd stitch is doubled) (-> 16 sts)
  Round 3: k
  Round 4: * k2 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 3rd stitch is doubled)(-> 24 sts)
  Round 5: k
  Round 6: * k3 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 4th stitch is doubled) (-> 32 sts)
  Round 7: k
  Round 8: * k4 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 5th stitch is doubled) (-> 40 sts)
  … I'm sure, the formula is clear by now, namely that you increase by 8 stitches every other row. It also means that the distance between the increases goes up by one in each of the increase-rounds. The same "formula" will be used when constructing the mitts. If you do the increases at the same spot a pattern (maybe even corners) will become visible; to achieve a look like a circle you need to start the increases at a different (randomly chosen) location in each increase row.
  Similarly, if you start with a big stitch number, you can knit a circle starting from the rim and decreasing by 8 stitches - evenly spaced - in each round.
• Magic Ring CO: Basically, the magic ring technique (from crochet) is used to cast on knitted stitches. There are several videos on Youtube that show the technique - I used something similar to the technique shown in the first video, but since this is fiddly work, just use the one that suits you best.

• with knitting needles: http://youtu.be/_xZywv8wj9Y or http://youtu.be/eXgvTPSOVIw 
• or with a crochet hook: http://youtu.be/4Vkpqdea-6o  

However, if the Magic Ring CO is too fiddly for you, you can alternatively just CO 8 sts and join them in the round. Later, you can use the tail of your CO to close the open loop, by pulling it through the CO stitches and draw them closed.

Gauge, Size and What you Need to Measure
The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to any head size. I measured the circumference of my head and - on a beret that fitted me well - the diameter when it lay flat, i.e. at its widest point.
Since you start from the inside out - you can knit (and increase) until you reach the desired diameter and then knit on (and decrease) until you reach your head circumference. Therefore you don't really have to swatch.
If you want to knit the exact same beret that I knitted. Here are my numbers:

• Gauge in stockinette stitch: 18 sts = 10 cm in width, 25 rows = 10 cm in height
• Diameter at the widest point = 26 cm, i.e. 81 cm of circumference
• Diameter at ribbing = 16 cm, i.e. a diameter of about 50 cm, since the ribbing stretches it fits my head circumference (55 cm).

Instructions

Short Version - to Fit any Size of Head and Weight of Yarn
This version will definitely work for you, if you've knitted a flat circle before (e.g. the Circle Mitts or the Zoom Out Fingerless Gloves).

Do a magic loop CO of 8 stitches. Your piece should now look similar to illustration 1 - see below.
Distribute the sts on the bigger needles (4.5mm) needles and knit one round. Now it should look like illustration 2. Place a stitch marker.

Alternate one round with circle increases (8 increases per round - started at a random point, but distributed evenly) with one knit-only round - until the piece has the circumference/diameter you want.
(I did this a total of 15 increase rounds, this means that I had 120 sts on my needles - I was about 7 cm short of my intended diameter).

Then - to create a bit of a slope - alternate one round of circle increases with two knit only rounds.
(I did this 3 times, i.e. afterwards I had a total of 144 sts on my needles -  the diameter was about 24 cm then.)

Then knit two knit-only rounds - without any increases or decreases.
Then alternate one round of circle decreases (8 decreases per round - started at a random point, but distributed evenly) with one knit-only round - until the inner edge fits snugly around your head.
(I did a total of 8 decrease rounds, i.e. I had 80 sts on my needles before I started the ribbing.)

With the smaller needles (4mm) knit 7 round of k2p2-ribbing. Loosely bind off in pattern in round 8.

Long Version - Exactly to my Gauge and Size
With your 4.5mm needles do a magic loop CO of 8 sts. - If this is too fiddly, you can alternatively just CO 8 sts and join them in the round. You can use the tail to close the open loop, by pulling it through the CO stitches and draw them closed. The piece should look similar to illustration 1.
Distribute the stitches on your 4.5mm needles and knit one round. Place a marker at the end of the round. Now your piece should look simlar to illustration 2.
Round 2: kbf all - now you have a total of 16 sts
Round 3: k all

Illustrations - click to enlarge

Round 4: * k1, mk1, k1 repeat from * to end - now you have a total of 24 sts
Round 5: k all
Round 6: * k3, mk1 repeat from * to end -> 32 sts
Round 7: k all
Round 8: * k1, mk1, k4 repeat from * to end -> 40 sts
Round 9: k all
Round 10: * k4, mk1, k1 repeat from * to end -> 48 sts
Round 11: k all
Round 12: * k2, mk1, k4 repeat from * to end ->  56 sts
Round 13: k all
Round 14: * k6, mk1, k1 repeat from * to end -> 64 sts
Round 15: k all - now your piece should look similar to illustration 3.
Round 16: * mk1, k8 repeat from * to end ->  72 sts
Round 17: k all
Round 18: * k4, mk1, k5 repeat from * to end ->  80 sts
Round 19: k all
Round 20: * k8, mk1, k2 repeat from * to end -> 88 sts
Round 21: k all
Round 22: * k2, mk1, k9 repeat from * to end -> 96 sts
Round 23: k all
Round 24: * k5, mk1, k7 repeat from * to end -> 104 sts
Round 25: k all
Round 26: * k10, mk1, k3 repeat from * to end ->  112 sts
Round 27: k all
Round 28: * k1, mk1, k13 repeat from * to end ->  120 sts
Round 29: k all
Round 30: k all
Round 31: * k10, mk1, k5 repeat from * to end ->  128 sts
Round 32: k all
Round 33: k all
Round 34: * k10, mk1, k5 repeat from * to end -> 136 sts
Round 35: k all
Round 36: k all
Round 37: * k6, mk1, k10 repeat from * to end ->  144 sts
Round 38: k all
Round 39: k all
Round 40: * k1, ssk, k15 repeat from * to end ->  136 sts
Round 41: k all
Round 42: * k10, ssk, k5 repeat from * to end ->  128 sts
Round 43: k all
Round 44: * k6, ssk, k8 repeat from * to end ->  120 sts
Round 45: k all
Round 46: * k12, ssk, k1 repeat from * to end -> 112 sts
Round 47: k all
Round 48: * k2, ssk, k10 repeat from * to end -> 104 sts
Round 49: k all
Round 50: * k11, ssk repeat from * to end ->  96 sts
Round 51: k all
Round 52: * k3, ssk, k7 repeat from * to end -> 88 sts
Round 53: k all
Round 54: * k8, ssk, k1 repeat from * to end -> 80 sts

Change to 4mm needles and do 7 rounds of k2p2-ribbing. Bind off loosely in pattern in round 8.

Weave in ends. 

U-Turn Hat

While participating in an open KAL hosted by the facebook group "Die Drei vom Blog - Knitalong", I designed a few new hats. This is the 3rd one I knitted ... but the first that has its pattern written down :) It is knitted flat from side to side and completely without short rows.
It starts similar to the U-Turn Mitts or the U-Turn Slippers. It has semicircular increases to shape the dome over your head, decreases for the slope on the other side and is finished with a three-needle bind-off. Because of its unique construction, it's great to show off your variegated or self-striping yarn.

The pattern contains one stitch-by-stitch version for exactly the same size that I knitted, an explanation on how to adapt it to a different sizes or different weights of yarn, and a generic version of the pattern.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.   

A german version of this pattern is available here.

Materials

• about 50 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3.25mm needles - I used circulars with an 80 cm cord
• three stitch markers
• a third knitting needle for the three needle BO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques & Notation

• Judy's Magic Cast-On is a technique that gives you live stitches on both sides of your needle - it is generally used for toe-up socks (e.g. in this pattern), but it can be used for other purposes as well. Here's a written description (from Knitty) and here's a YouTube-video by Cat Bordhi and another YouTube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Three-Needle Bind-Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Knitting a flat circle - or in case of this pattern a semicircle: The technique for knitting a flat circle has been described a few times on this blog, e.g. in the "Zoom Out Mitts"-Post. Basically it consists of doing 8 increases (evenly spaced out in one round) every other row, and varying the starting point for the first increase to avoid an octagon pattern. 
  In this pattern only a semicircle is knitted. This means that there will be only 4 increases on every RS row - and they will be started at a random stitch within the first quarter of the half circle.
  As an increase I used kfb and as decrease I used ssk, but you can use other stitches as well, e.g. a make 1 knit stitch (mk1) as increasing stitch (which may look a bit neater) or a k2tog as a decrease stitch.
• [X]*Y, means, knit the sequence in brackets (X) Y times, e.g. [k2. kfb]*3 means knit the sequence "k2, kfb" three times.

Gauge and Size
In garter stitch 11 ridges (=22 rows) gave 5 cm in height, and 12 sts gave 5 cm in width.
The finished piece has about 48 to 50 cm of circumference (at the lower edge - ribbing) and is 23 cm high. However, the ribbing stretches easily to 56 cm circumfernce.
I'd advise you to measure the circumference of the intended wearer's head as well as the wished height of the crown.


Construction
Knitted flat an in a U-shape around the first magic CO. Each row consists of a garter stitch part (ribbing - at the beginning and end of each row) and a semicircular bit around the turning point of the U. The slope is achieved by changing the number of increases and decreases. See schematic below.

Construction - click to enlarge

First there will be 4 decreases every 2nd row, which basically creates a semicircle above the ribbing. Then only 3 increases will be made, then only 2, then only 1 and finally there will be a few rows without any increases at all.
Once you've reached the middle of your piece, you will knit the same backwards, i.e. there will be decreases instead of increases. That means you start with no decreases, then switch to 1 decrease every 2nd row, then 3 decreases every 2nd row and finally 4 decreases every 2nd row. Until there are only 2x20 stitches left. The piece is finished with a three-needle BO.
The letters in the schematic refer to the parts of the pattern instructions below.

Instructions
These are the specific instructions for a hat with the same yarn weight, same gauge and same size that I knitted. If you'd like to adapt the pattern, see "How to Adapt to Another Head Size - or Generic Instructions" below.

Do a magic CO of 2x20 stitches, i.e. you have 20 sts on each needle
Now turn your needles around in a way that you're looking at the garter stitch bumps.
All rows of the tip will be knitted in a U-shape, i.e. you knit the stitches on the first needle turn the piece upside down (this point will be called turning-point ("TP") and knit the stitches on the other needle. Then you turn your knitting to the WS and knit back.

Part A
Row 1 (WS): k18, place marker, p2, TP, p2, place marker, k18 - the markers will separate the ribbing from he upper (sloped) part.
Row 2 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb]*4, k18 - your piece will look similar to picture 1 - the U-shape will not yet be visible
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p4, TP, p4), k18
Row 4 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, kfb]*4, k18
Row 5 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p6, TP, p6), k18

Row 6 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb, k2]*4, k18

Row 7 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p8, TP, p8), k18
Row 8 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k1]*4, k18
Row 9 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p10, TP, p10), k18 - now your piece will look roughly like photo 2; the inverted U will start to become visible.

Row 10 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, kfb, k3]*4, k18
Row 11 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p12, TP, p12), k18
Row 12 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, kfb, k1]*4, k18
Row 13 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p14, TP, p14), k18
Row 14 (RS): sl1, k17, [kfb, k6]*4, k18
Row 15 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p16, TP, p16), k18
Row 16 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, kfb, k3]*4, k18
Row 17 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p18, TP, p18), k18 

Illustrations

Part B
From now on, there will be only 3 increases in every RS row.
Row 18 (RS): sl1, k17, [k6, kfb, k5]*3, k18
Row 19 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p39), k18
Row 20 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k10]*3, k18
Row 21 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p42), k18
Row 22 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, kfb, k3]*3, k18
Row 23 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p45), k18
Row 24 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, kfb, k13]*3, k18
Row 25 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p48), k18
Row 26 (RS): sl1, k17, [k11, kfb, k4]*3, k18
Row 27 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p51), k18
Row 28 (RS): sl1, k17, [k5, kfb, k11]*3, k18
Row 29 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p54), k18
Row 30 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, kfb, k4]*3, k18
Row 31 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p57), k18
Row 32 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k16]*3, k18
Row 33 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p60), k18
A few rows into part B, your piece should look similar to illustration 3.

Depending on the length of your circular needles, you may switch from magic loop to just knitting without a piece of cord sticking out. When I reached that point, I put a stitch marker at the TP - this makes it easier to count your stitches if you want to make sure that you've increased/decreased correctly.

Part C
From now on there will be only 2 increases in every RS row.
Row 34 (RS): sl1, k17, [k20, kfb, k9]*2, k18
Row 35 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p62), k18
Row 36 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, kfb, k28]*2, k18
Row 37 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p64), k18
Row 38 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, kfb, k21]*2, k18
Row 39 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p66), k18
Row 40 (RS): sl1, k17, [k25, kfb, k7]*2, k18
Row 41 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p68), k18

Row 42 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, kfb, k20]*2, k18
Row 43 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p70), k18

Part D
From now on there will only be 1 increase in every RS row.

Row 44 (RS): sl1, k17, k27, kfb, k to next marker, k18
Row 45 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p71), k18

Row 46 (RS): sl1, k17, k53, kfb, k to next marker, k18
Row 47 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p72), k18

Row 48 (RS): sl1, k17, k32, kfb, k to next marker, k18
Row 49 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p73), k18

Row 50 (RS): sl1, k17, k39, kfb, k to next marker, k18
Row 51 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p74), k18

Parts E
From now on, there will be no increases
Row 52 (RS): sl1, k to end
Row 53 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p74), k18
Measure the lower edge of the piece (at the garter stitch ribbing) when stretched comfortably. Check whether it measures half of your head circumference.

Part F (mirrors part E)
Row 54 (RS): sl1, k to end
Row 55 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p74), k18

Part G (mirrors part D)
One decrease per RS row.
Row 56 (RS): sl1, k17, k38, ssk, k to next marker, k18
Row 57 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p73), k18
Row 58 (RS): sl1, k17, k31, ssk, k to next marker, k18
Row 59 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p72), k18
Row 60 (RS): sl1, k17, k52, ssk, k to next marker, k18
Row 61 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p71), k18
Row 62 (RS): sl1, k17, k26, ssk, k to next marker, k18
Row 63 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p70), k18

Part H (mirrors part C)
Two decreases per RS row.
Row 64 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, ssk, k20]*2, k18

Row 65 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p68), k18

Row 66 (RS): sl1, k17, [k25, ssk, k7]*2, k18
Row 67 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p66), k18
Row 68 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, ssk, k21]*2, k18
Row 69 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p64), k18

Row 70 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k29]*2, k18
Row 71 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p62), k18
Row 72 (RS): sl1, k17, [k20, ssk, k9]*2, k18
Row 73 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p60), k18

Part I (mirrors part B)
Three decreases per RS row.
Row 74 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k16]*3, k18
Row 75 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p57), k18
Row 76 (RS): sl1, k17, [k13, ssk, k4]*3, k18
Row 77 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p54), k18
Row 78 (RS): sl1, k17, [k5, ssk, k11]*3, k18
Row 79 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p51), k18
Row 80 (RS): sl1, k17, [k11, ssk, k4]*3, k18
Row 81 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p48), k18
Row 82 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, ssk, k13]*3, k18
Row 83 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p45), k18
Row 84 (RS): sl1, k17, [k10, ssk, k3]*3, k18
Row 85 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p42), k18
Row 86 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k10]*3, k18
Row 87 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p39), k18
Row 88 (RS): sl1, k17, [k6, ssk, k5]*3, k18
Row 89 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p36), k18

Part J (mirrors part A)
Four decreases per RS row.
Row 90 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, ssk, k3]*4, k18

Row 91 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p32), k18 

Row 92 (RS): sl1, k17, [k6, ssk]*4, k18
Row 93 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p28), k18
Row 94 (RS): sl1, k17, [k4, ssk, k1]*4, k18
Row 95 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p24), k18
Row 96 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, ssk, k3]*4, k18
Row 97 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p20), k18
Row 98 (RS): sl1, k17, [k2, ssk, k1]*4, k18
Row 99 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p16), k18

Row 100 (RS): sl1, k17, [ssk, k2]*4, k18

Row 101 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p12), k18
Row 102 (RS): sl1, k17, [k1, ssk]*3, k1, k2tog, k18 - I chose a k2tog (instead of an ssk as the 4th decrease, to get a clean edge towards the garter stitch ribbing)
Row 103 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p8), k18
Row 104 (RS): sl1, k17, [ssk]*3, k2tog, k18
Row 105 (WS): sl1, k17, p to next marker (i.e. p4, TP, p4), k18

Now there should be the same number of stitches left that you started with, i.e. 2x20.
Turn inside out, hold right sides together and do a three needle BO of the last stitches (see illustration 4).

Weave in ends and turn back right sides out.

How to Adapt to Another Size 

If you have different gauge, have a different size head or use different yarn altogether, you can adapt the pattern to your size. Basically, you can adapt two things:

• the number of stitches on both ends that are knitted in garter stitch and that form the ribbing - the height of your ribbing - and
• the number of rows with 4 in/decreases, 3 in/decreases, 2 in/decreases, 1 in/decrease and no increase - this changes the shape of the slope.

If you'd like a shorter/longer ribbing or use different yarn, I'd suggest that you cast on fewer/more stitches with the magic CO. On each needle, you need the intended number of ribbing stitches plus 2.

I'd suggest that of the total number of rows you need to reach the middle of the piece,

• you use about 1/3 for RS rows with 4 in/decreases
• about the same number for RS rows with 3 in/decreses
• about 1/6 for RS rows with 2 in/decreases
• you devide the remaining rows equally into rows 1 in/decrease and no in/decrease. 

As you can see in the instructions above - for me it was a total of 26 rows to reach the middle, 8 of which with 4 increases, 8 with 3 increases, 5 with 2, and 4 with 1 increase - which is roughly the distribution above. 

When you change from 4 increases to 3 increases, it's possible that you have a stitch count between the markers, that is not divisible by 3. In this case, you need to distribute the new increases as evenly as possible throughout the stockinette stitches. The same goes for all other changes in the number of in/decreases.

For a wider circumference, you can just add a few rows, without any increases or decreases in the middle of the piece. For a higher dome, do more rows with 4 and 3 increases, and fewer with 2 and 1 increases.

Important: With all adjustments, make sure to knit two equal halves, i.e. do the same decreases during the 2nd half then you did increases during the 1st. That's why I'd advise to take notes of the knitted rows.

Generic Instructions

With magic CO cast on the number of stitches you want for the ribbing plus 2 to start the semicircle increases and all of that on both sides of the needles (i.e. calculated number of stitches times two).

So your first row after the magic CO would be;
Row 1 (WS): k to 2 bef turning point ("TP"), place marker, k2, then turn, k2, place marker, k to end

Part A
You start with a few rows with 4 increases per RS row, ie.
Row 2 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 4 increases (e.g. kfb) among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first quarter, slip marker, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you've reached about a third of half your circumference
Important: Take notes of the number of repeats that you work for all parts. You'll need these numbers to do an equal amount of decrease rows.

Part B
Now you change to only 3 increases per RS row, i.e.
Row 4 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 3 increases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first third, slip marker, k to end
Row 5 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end
Repeat rows 4 and 5 until you've reached about two thirds of half your circumference - so roughly the same number of repeats in part A.
Also, take a note of the number of rows you worked with 3 increases.

Part C
Then you switch to 2 increases per RS row.
Row 6 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 2 increases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first half, slip marker, k to end
Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end
Repeat these rows about a half of the repeats of part A.

Part D

Then you switch to 1 increases per RS

Row 6 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker randomly do 1 increase among your knit stitches, slip marker, k to end
Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end

Repeat these rows for about half of the remaining rows until you've reached half of your circumference

Part E

Then to switch to no increases.

Row 8 (RS): sl1, k to end

Row 9 (WS): sl1, k to end

Repeat these rows until you've reached half of the intended circumference

Now you start the second half, ad you basically knit the mirror image of the first.

Part F

First the rows with no increases:

Row 10 (RS): sl1, k to end

Row 11 (WS): sl1, k to end

Repeat the rows the same number of times as in part E.

Part G

Only one decrease per RS row.

Row 12 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker randomly do 1 decrease (eg. ssk) among your knit stitches, slip marker, k to end
Row 13 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end

Repeat these rows the same number of times as the rows in part D.

Part H

Two decreases per RS row.

Row 14 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 2 decreases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first half, slip marker, k to end

Row 15 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end

Repeat rows the same number of time as the rows of  part C

Part I

Three decreases per RS row.

Row 16 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 3 decreases among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first third, slip marker, k to end
Row 17 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end
Repeat rows 16 and 17 the same number of times as the rows of part B

Part J

And towards the end, four decreases per RS row.

Row 18 (RS): sl1, k to marker, between here and the next marker evenly distribute 4 decreases (e.g. ssk) among your knit stitches - starting from a random stitch during the first quarter, slip marker, k to end

Row 19 (WS): sl1, k to marker, p to next marker, k to end
Repeat rows 18 and 19 the same number of times as the rows of part A.

Now there should be the same numer of stitches that you started with.
Turn inside out, hold right sides together and do a three needle BO of the last stitches.

Weave in ends, turn back right sides out and enjoy wearing your hat.

U-Turn Hat and U-Turn Mitts

Mesuneko Hat - A Swatchless Take on the PussyHat Theme

A friend asked me to knit a PussyHat for her (see PussyHat project page for more information). And since I'm not the kind of person to follow a pattern, I started doing it my way. In any case, I like to knit with yarn that's not so bulky (fingering weight for preference) and I only found one pattern for a PussyHat in fingering weight. Plus, I prefer patterns where you can start knitting without any measuring and swatching. And that's just what I did. I started knitting the ribbing sideways and held it around my head to see whether it was long enough. That's why the hat is knitted in two directions: first the ribbing is knitted sideways and flat - then, the main part is knitted bottom-up and in the round.

In the end, I knitted one hat in Fingering and one in DK weight. The first hat was in Fingering weight and knitted on slightly too big needles (i.e. the ones I usually use to get a nice and light texture) - so the fabric wasn't stiff enough to make the "ears" stick out. So tinked the last rows and did the three-needle BO from the outside. The crisp upper edge made the ears stick out better. Furthermore, I knitted a second one with DK weight yarn and needles that were slightly smaller than what the yarn called for - and that worked quite well to get the PussyHat look.

Yes, I know, it's rather late in the day to publish a PussyHat pattern ... but anyway, here's my take at the PussyHat theme.

Mesuneko (メス猫) is the japanese word for a female cat.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 80 grams of DK weight yarn - however, the pattern is written in a way that it can easily adapted to other yarn weights
• 3.25mm needles (straight or circular)
• 3.75mm needles (circulars or dpns)
• a third needle for Three-Needle Bind-Off
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Provisional Cast-On: This method of cast-on usually uses some waste yarn that can be remove later to get live stitches, these stitches can either be used to continue knitting in the opposite direction or to graft these stitches to the rest of your piece. My favourite method is the one using a crochet hook (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeExgbgTOgs). The first time you use your working yarn, will be called setup row in this pattern.
• Three-Needle Bind Off: The three needle bind-off is used to attach two pieces of knitting (or to ends of one piece of knitting) to one another - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video - alternatively you can close the upper edge with Stockinette Grafting (Kitchener Stitch). Here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique.
• Picking up stitches from the side and knitting them (pick up and knit): https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q or https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw 

Instructions

Ribbing
Provisionally CO 20 sts (if you use heavier yarn (e.g. bulky), I'd advise to cast on less stitches for the ribbing).
Setup Row: k all
Row 1: sl1 wyif (p-wise), k to end
Row 2: sl1 wyif (p-wise), p to end
Row 3: sl1 wyib (k-wise), p to end
Row 4: sl1 wyib (k-wise), k to end
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until the brim fits around your head when stretched - end with a row 3.
Put stitches from provisional CO on another needle. Hold ends together and do a three needle BO. Do not bind off the last stitch.

Main Part
Starting from the leftover stitch pick up and knit stitches all around the rim (from the side of the ribbing). Per 8 rows of ribbing, pick up 5 sts (see picture to the right). Then go on knitting in the round in stockinette stitch until the hat is as high as you want it to be.

For me this was the case, when the whole of the hat (ribbing plus main part) measured xx cm in height.

Distribute your stitches evenly on two needles and do a three-needle bind off - if you do this from the outside, the ears will stick out more prominently.

Weave in ends and enjoy wearing your hat!

Knit-Only Slouch Hat

To combat the current cold weather, knit yourself a stylish hat with an interesting detail at the crown. It is worked only in knit stitch, so it's the perfect for knitters who do not like to purl. The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to your head size.

As with many of my patterns, I don't give exact stitch counts. For the decrease rows, for example  I will ask you to count your stitches and decrease to 64 stitches over the next 3 rounds. If you don't like these kinds of instruction, you probably won't like the pattern.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Dansk / Danish: A danish version of this pattern is also available. It was translated by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) and can be found here.


Materials

• a total of about 80-90 grams of Sport weight yarn - about 70-80 grams of the main color (MC) and about 10 grams of the contrast color (CC)
• 3mm needles (for the brim or ribbing)
• 3.5mm or 3.75mm needles (for the main part of the hat) - I used circulars for the main part of the hat and dpns for the crown, but you can used dpns throughout
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• a stitch marker
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

If you use a different yarn weight, use needles that are slightly larger than what the yarn calls for for the brim and bigger needles for the main part.


Techniques

• Provisional CO:  My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Pick up and knit: As shown in one of these YouTube-videos: https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g, https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q or https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw  

Instructions

Brim
With smaller needles:
Provisionally CO 16 sts
Row 1 (MC): k all stitches
Row 2 (MC): k all stitches
Row 3 (CC): k all stitches
Row 4 (CC): k all stitches
Row 5 (MC): k all stitches
Row 6 (MC): k all stitches
Repeat these 6 rows until the piece is long enough to fit around your hat when stretched.

Put the stitches from the provisional CO on a knitting needle and do a three needle BO. Your piece should look similar to picture 1.

Cut both yarns.

Main Part
With MC and bigger needles pick up and knit 4 stitches per 3 garter stitch ridges. Join in round and place end-of-round-marker. Knit about 15 cm of stockinette rounds (or until the hat is "slouchy" enough for you).
Count your stitches and over the next 3 rounds, decrease the number of stitches to 64 stitches.
(Just for example, here are my stitch counts: I had 132 stitches and decreased every 4th stitch in the first round (about 99 stitches left), every 4th stitch in the second round (75 stitches left) and then distributed the necessary 11 decreases equally in the third round.)

Crown
Distribute the 64 left stitches on 4 needles. Your piece should look similar to picture 2. (If you only have circulars, you may want to put stitch markers after every 16 stitches).
Now you will work with the first 16 stitches and the adjoining stitches on both sides.

Row 1 (CC): k15, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch on the first needle and the first stitch on the adjoining needle), turn
Row 2 (CC): k15, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of your row and the first stitch on the adjoining needle, turn
Row 3 (MC): k15, k2tog (again, the last stitch on your "working needle" and the next stitch on the adjoining needle), turn
Row 4 (MC): k15, k2tog, turn
Row 5 (MC): k15, k2tog, turn
Row 6 (MC): k15, k2tog, turn
Repeat rows 1-6 four more times (after a few rows, your piece should look similar to picture 3), then knit rows 1 and 2 one more time.

Now you should have a total of 2x16 stitches left - one needle of the 16 sts that you just worked in CC, and another needle of 16 stitches that haven't been worked with since the main part.

Turn the hat inside out (see picture 4) and with MC do a three-needle bind off.

Weave in ends.

Nikko Summer Crochet Hat

In high summer I tend to get sunburned. Therefore I usually have to shield my eyes and face somehow. Last year I decided to crochet a cotton hat, I bought the yarn ... and put it in one of my stash boxes ...

Another summer started and I - finally - started to crochet a hat. As usual I was too lazy to search for a pattern that fits my size, to swatch and so on. I ended up trying and frogging twice before I got it right. But now, it fits perfectly.

I chose the name Nikko because these kinds of hats remind me of Japan in summer and "nikko" - besides being a town name - means sunlight or sunshine.




This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Tweet

Materials

• yarn (I used about 200 metres of DK weight yarn - 2 skeins of Lang Xenia (a mix of cotton, linen and rayon)
• a crochet hook to match the yarn (I used 3.5mm hook)
• a tape measure
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Magic ring: A method to avoid the little hole when starting to crochet in the round - the technique is shown in this YouTube video by planetjune.com
• ch: chain stitch
• ss: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• sc-inc: single crochet increase; two single crochets into one stitch below
• dc: double crochet
• dc-inc: double crochet increase: two double crochets into one stitch below

How to Crochet a Flat Circle ... and a Hat
A way to crochet a flat circle is to start with a magic loop and 8 sc in the round. In each of the following rounds the stitch count will be increased by 8.
That means that in the 2nd round every 2nd stitch needs to be doubled (e.g. by crocheting 2 sc into the sc below). In the 3rd round every 3rd stitch needs to be doubled, in the 4th round every 4 stitch ... and so on. So when you distribute the increases evenly, in round 2 there is always one stitch between the increases, in the 3rd round there are 2 normal stitches between the increases, in round 4 there are 3 stitches between the increases ... and so one.

For a hat there needs to be a sort of incline, i.e. less than 8 stitches need to be doubled per round, so after the first few rounds there will be more stitches between the increases.

Preparations

Take the following measurements:

• A = the desired height of your hat (you can do that by measuring around the top of your head from about 1 cm into your ear to the same point at the other ear - and then taking half of that distance
• B = the circumference of your head

See also the picture on the right for a schematic.

Instructions
There are two versions of the instructions one really short one that explains the

Really short version

• Crochet a magic ring with 8 sc and close with ss
• Crocheting a circle (as explained above) alternate in crocheting one round of sc and one round of dc - until your piece measures one fifth (1/5) of the desired height.
• Continue alternating sc and dc rounds, but with less increases - calculate the stitches between the increases by multiplying the normal stitch distance by 1.5 until your piece measures three fifth of the desired height.
• Continue alternating sc and dc rounds, but now with a distance between the increases as twice as wide as the distance for a normal circle until your piece has the desired circumference.
• Then continue to alternate sc and dc rounds without any increases until your head has the desired height.
• To crochet the brim, increase every third stitch - still continuing to change each round between  a dc round and an sc round.
• Continue without any increases until the brim is as wide as you like it to be.

Longer Version with Examples and Comments

This example is one-size only - there are explanations to adjust it to your size, and some comments (written in purple) to explain the "thinking" behind this pattern.

Crochet a magic ring with  8 sc and close with a ss.

For the first fifth of the height the hat is worked as a circle,
R1: ch1, sc-inc to end of round, close with ss
R2: ch3, * dc, dc-inc repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
R3: ch1, * sc-in, 2sc repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
R4: ch3, * dc, dc-inc, dc repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[To avoid visible corners the first increase stitch is at a random spot.]

After these four rounds, I had finished one fifth of the height. Adjust the number of rows to the size of your head and your crochet piece.

In order to shape the hat, less increases are worked from now on. For the 2nd and 3rd fifth, the distance between the increases is 1.5 times as high as for a flat circle.

R5: ch1, * sc3, sc-inc, sc3 * sc, sc-inc, sc repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[5 x 1.5 = 7.5 (rounded to 7), i.e. every 7th stitch is doubled, i.e. there are 6 stiches between the increases] 
[To avoid visible corners the first increase stitch is always at a random spot.]
From this point on there may be a few stitches left at the end of your round after you finish your last complete repeat. Just finish the round with sc's (or dc's in even-numbered rounds) and then close with ss
R6: ch3, * dc8, dc-inc repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[6 * 1.5 = 9, i.e. every 9th stitch is double or 8 stitches between the increases]
R7: ch1, * sc1, sc-inc, sc8 repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[7 x 1.5 = 10.5 (rounded to 10), i.e. every 10th stitch is doubled]
R8: ch3, * dc5, dc-inc, dc6 repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[8 x 1.5 = 12, i.e. every 12th stitch is doubled or 11 stitches between the increases]

Continue in this fashion (increasing according to the formula and alternating sc- and dc-rounds) until you have reached 3/5 (three fifth) of the height of your hat. For me this was the case after the 12th round, i.e. I continued with round number 13. Please adjust this to your size.

From now on you have to measure the hat's desired circumference, once you've reached that, stop the increases and just go on with alternating sc- and dc-rounds until you've reached the desired height.
If you haven't reached the circumference, yet, continue increasing but with an even wider distance between the increases: twice as wide as for a flat circle.

R13: ch1, * sc10, sc-inc, sc15 repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[13 x 2 = 26, every 26th stitch is doubled]
R14: ch3, * dc3, dc-inc, dc24 repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
[14 x 2 = 28, every 28th stitch is doubled]

Continue in this fashion (increasing according to the formula and alternating sc- and dc-rounds) until your hat has the desired circumference.

Then add alternating sc- and dc-rounds without any increases until your piece has the desired height.
For me this was the case after round 16. Please adjust to your size.

R17: ch1, sc until end or round, close with ss
R18: ch3, dc until end or round, close with ss

When your hat has the desired height, start crocheting the brim. For me this was the case after the 24th round.

To start the brim, crochet a round where every 2nd stitch is doubled.
If this is an odd-number round (i.e. an sc-round): ch1 * sc-inc, sc2 repeat from * to end of round, close with ss
If this is an even-number round (i.e. a dc-round): ch1 * dc-inc, dc2 repeat from * to end of round, close with ss

Continue alternating sc- and dc-rounds (without increases) until you're brim is as wide as you like it to be. I stopped after the 4th brim-round because I ran out of yarn. 

Weave in ends and you're done!

Wendepunkt-Mütze

Die Anleitung für U-Turn-Mütze gibt es schon seit einigen Jahren auf diesem Blog. Da sie sehr glatt am Kopf anliegt, eignet sie sich gut als Chemo-Cap. 

Angela Mühlpfordt (von bestrickendes.de) hatte die Idee, zusammen mit KnitPro ein Set zu entwickeln, das u.a. passendes Garn und hochwertige Nadeln enthält, um diese Mütze zu stricken. Für jedes Set werden 5 EUR an Brustkrebs Deutschland e.V. gespendet.Näheres zu ihrem Projekt findet sich hier auf ihrem Blog. Dieses Breast Cancer Awareness Set (Special Pink Set) kann man ab dem 01.10.2022 hier bei Knitty-Bitty bestellen.

Und hier ist die Strickanleitung für diese Mütze, die wir auf Deutsch "Wendepunkt-Mütze" genannt haben. 

Diese Mütze wird in offener Arbeit hin und her gestrickt und kommt vollständig ohne verkürzte Reihen aus. Man startet mit einem sogenannten “magischen Maschenanschlag” von einer Seite des Kopfes, strickt Zunahmen bis zur Mitte, nimmt anschließend Maschen ab und beendet mit einem “Abketten mit drei Nadeln”. 

Eine früher veröffentlichte englischer Version dieser Anleitung findet sich hier. In dieser wird auch das allgemeine Prinzip erklärt, mit dem man diese Mütze in anderen Grössen stricken kann.

Here's the english version of this knitting pattern.

Material

• ca. 50 gr Sockenwolle (4-fädiges Garn ) 
• 2.75 mm  Rundstricknadel 
• 2  Maschenmarkierer
• eine dritte Stricknadel (auch ca. 2.75 mm) um am Ende abketten zu können

Maschenprobe und Größe

In Krausrechts: 11 Rippen (22 Reihen) = 5 cm Höhe, 12 Maschen = 5 cm Breite

Die fertige Mütze hat etwa die Grösse S-M, d.h. sie hat einen Umfang von ca. 50 cm (am Bündchen) und ist flach ausgelegt 23 cm hoch. Das Bündchen ist aber sehr elastisch und kann bequem bis zu 56 cm gestreckt werden. 

Ja, hier braucht man leider eine Maschenprobe - und es ist auch ratsam den Kopf des vorgesehenen Trägers zu messen.

Techniken und Notation

Neben rechten und linken Maschen braucht man für diese Anleitung noch die folgenden Techniken.

Die hier verwendeten Zu- und Abnahmen sind 

• kfb: aus einer Masche eine weitere herausstricken (einmal durch das vordere, dann durch das hintere Maschenglied) – dies entspricht der englischen Abkürzung “knit-front-back”), s.auch hier: https://youtu.be/q_KeANunPA8   
• ssk:  zwei Maschen links geneigt zusammenstricken, dazu die erste Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, die zweite Masche wie zum rechtsstricken abheben, dann mit der linken Nadel durch beide Maschen hindurch stechen, und beide zusammen abstricken, (entspricht  dem “slip-slip-knit” in englischen Anleitungen), s. auch hier: https://youtu.be/LbzyZzMf5Jc 
• Judys Magischer Maschenanschlag: eine Anschlag-Technik, bei der man Maschen an zwei Seiten erstellt, siehe die erste Technik in diesem YouTube-video von Sylvie Rasch – CraSy creative things: https://youtu.be/EdFcr31yqQI 
• Abketten mit drei Nadeln: https://youtu.be/30GQlCrqUGQ (YouTube-Video von Stricken wir!)
• Einen flachen Kreis aus der Mitte stricken in glattrechts: Man startet mit 8 Maschen, und nimmt in jeder zweiten Reihe jeweils – gleichmäßig verteilt – weitere 8 Maschen zu. Diese Technik wird hier auf einen Halbkreis angewendet, d.h. in jeder zweiten Reihen (also hier in jeder Hinreihe) werden 4 Maschen zugenommen. Um “Eckenbildung” zu vermeiden, strickt man die Zunahmen jeweils an unterschiedlichen Stellen. So wird es ein wirklich runder Halbkreis.
• Auch wenn diese Mütze flach gestrickt wird (hin und her), ist es sinnvoll dies in der Magic Loop Methode auf der Rundstricknadel zu arbeiten. Hier ein Video, das diese Technik erläutern: https://youtu.be/mB7kCsUsGD0 (YouTube-Video von Maschenfein Berlin)
• [X]*Y: bedeutet, dass die Folge X in den eckigen Klammern Y-mal gearbeitet werden soll, also z.B. [2 Mre. kfb]*3 bedeutet, dass die Folge “zwei rechte Maschen und ein kfb” insgesamt 3-mal gestrickt werden soll.
• Weitere Abkürzungen
• HR: Hinreihe
• RR: Rückreihe
• Mre: rechte Masche(n)
• Mli: linke Masche(n)
• MM: Maschenmarkierer
• 2 M re. zus., 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken

Konstruktion

Diese Mütze wird in offener Arbeit gestrickt, in einer umgekehrten U-Form um den magischen Maschenanschlag herum. Jede Reihe besteht aus einem kraus-rechts gestrickten Teil (Rippen am Anfang und Ende jeder Reihe) und einem halbkreisförmigen glatt-rechts gestrickten Teil um den Wendepunkt herum. Die unterschiedliche Schräge wird durch eine Anpassung der Zu- bzw. Abnahmen erlangt. An den Seiten gibt es relativ viele Zu- und Abnahmen, zur Mitte hin weniger bis keine - siehe das Diagramm unten.

Zuerst sind es vier Zunahmen in jeder Hinreihe, was einem flachen Halbkreis entspricht, dann nur noch drei Zunahmen pro Hinreihe, dann nur noch zwei und schließlich gar keine Zunahme mehr. Nachdem man die Mitte der Mütze erreicht hat, wird das gleiche rückwärts gemacht, also zuerst keine Abnahme, dann zwei pro Hinreihe, dann drei und schließlich vier. Der letzte Schritt ist das Abketten mit drei Nadeln.

Anleitung

Magischer Maschenanschlag: 2x15 Maschen, d.h. auf jeder Nadel sind 15 Maschen.

Das Strickstück sieht nun aus wie auf Bild A.

Nun die Nadeln so drehen, dass die Krausrippe vorne sichtbar ist. Alle Reihen werden nun in einer U-Form gestrickt, d.h. erst werden die Maschen auf der oberen Nadel abgestrickt, dann wird das Strickstück gedreht (so dass oben und unten vertauscht werden) und anschließend die Maschen der zweiten Nadel abgestrickt.

Der Punkt, an dem die Drehung stattfindet, wird Wendepunkt (“WP”) genannt.  

 

Zuerst werden vier Zunahmen pro Hinreihe gestrickt.

Reihe 1 (RR): 18 Mre, Maschenmarkierer platzieren, 2 Mli, WP, 2Mi, Maschenmarkierer platzieren, 18 Mre - die Maschenmarkierer trennen den kraus-rechts Teil (Bündchen) vom glatt-rechts Teil (oberer Teil der Mütze)

Reihe 2 (HR):  1 M abh, 17 Mre, MM,  [kfb]*4, MM, 18 Mre - das Strickstück sieht jetzt aus wie in Illustration 1, die U-Form ist noch nicht ganz sichtbar

Reihe 3 und alle weiteren ungeraden Reihen: 1 M abh, Mre bis MM, MM, Mli bis zum nächsten MM, MM, Mre bis Ende

Reihe 4 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, kfb]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 6 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [kfb, 2 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 8 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [k2, kfb, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 10 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, kfb, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 12 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, kfb, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 14 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [kfb, 6 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 16 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, kfb, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Das Strickstück sieht nun in etwa so aus wie auf Bild B.

Ab jetzt werden jeweils 3 Zunahmen pro Hinreihe gestrickt. 

Reihe 18 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [6 Mre, kfb, 5 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 20 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, kfb, 10 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 22 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, kfb, 3 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 24 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, kfb, 13 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 26 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [11 Mre, kfb, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 28 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [5 Mre, kfb, 11 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 30 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, kfb, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 32 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [Mre 2, kfb, 16 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Das Strickstück sieht nun in etwa so aus wie auf Bild C.

Je nachdem wie lange die verwendete Rundstricknadel ist, nun von der Magic Loop Methode zum normalen Stricken wechseln, d.h. ohne dass ein Teil des Seiles heraussteht. Um das Zählen zu erleichtern, ist es ratsam, an die Stelle des WPs einen weiteren Maschenmarkierer einzufügen. 

Ab jetzt werden pro Hinreihe 2 Zunahmen gestrickt. 

Reihe 34 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [20 Mre, kfb, 9 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 36 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, kfb, 28 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 38 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, kfb, 21 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 40 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [25 Mre, kfb, 7 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 42 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, kfb, 20 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Das Strickstück sieht nun so aus wie auf Bild D.

Ab jetzt wird in jeder Hinreihe jetzt nur noch eine Masche zugenommen. 

Reihe 44 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 27 Mre, kfb, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Reihe 45 (RR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, Mli bis MM (d.h. 71 Mli), 18 Mre

Reihe 46 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 53 Mre, kfb, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Reihe 48 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 32 Mre, kfb, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Reihe 50 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 39 Mre, kfb,Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Nun folgen die Reihen ohne Zu- oder Abnahmen.

Reihe 52 (HR): 1 M abh., Mre bis zum Ende

Das Bündchen (Krausrippen am unteren Rand) sollte jetzt (leicht gestreckt) so lange sein wie die Hälfte des Kopfumfanges.

Reihe 54 (HR): 1 M abh., Mre bis zum Ende

Jeweils eine Abnahme pro Hinreihe.

Reihe 56 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 38 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Reihe 58 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 31 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Reihe 60 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 52 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

Reihe 62 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, 26 Mre, ssk, Mre bis MM, 18 Mre

In diesem Teil werden 2 Abnahmen pro Hinreihe gestrickt.

Reihe 64 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, ssk, 20 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 66 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [25 Mre, ssk, 7 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 68 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, ssk, 21 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 70 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 29 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Reihe 72 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [20 Mre, ssk, 9 Mre]*2, 18 Mre

Pro Hinreihe werden nun drei Maschen abgenommen. 

Reihe 74 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 16 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 76 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [13 Mre, ssk, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 78 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [5 Mre, ssk, 11 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 80 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [11 Mre, ssk, 4 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 82 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, ssk, 13 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 84 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [10 Mre, ssk, 3 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 86 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 10 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Reihe 88 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [6 Mre, ssk, 5 Mre]*3, 18 Mre

Und schliesslich vier Abnahmen pro Hinreihe.

Reihe 90 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, ssk, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 92 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [6 Mre, ssk]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 94 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [4 Mre, ssk, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 96 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, ssk, 3 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 98 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [2 Mre, ssk, 1 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 100 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [ssk, 2 Mre]*4, 18 Mre

Reihe 102 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [1 Mre, ssk]*3, k1,  2 M re. zus., 18 Mre - 

(Die letzte Abnahme wurde als rechtsgeneigt zusammengestrickt, weil dies einen schöneren Übergang zum Kraus-Rechts-Bündchen bildet.

Reihe 104 (HR): 1 M abh., 17 Mre, [ssk]*3, 2 M re. zus., 18 Mre

Reihe 105 (RR) = Reihe 3

Das Strickstück sieht nun in etwa aus wie auf Bild E.

Nach Beendigung der letzten Reihe sollte wieder dieselbe Anzahl Maschen vorhanden sein, wie ganz am Anfang nach dem Maschenanschlag (d.h. 2 x 20 Maschen).

Die Mütze nun auf links drehen, die beiden Seiten zusammenhalten und mit dem Abketten mit drei Nadeln zusammenstricken.

Nach dem Vernähen der Enden ist die Mütze fertig und zurück auf rechts gedreht werden.

Um ein gleichmäßigeres Maschenbild zu bekommen, kann die Mütze vorsichtig gespannt werden - siehe Bild F.