Freitag, 28. März 2014

Streifen, Streifen und Streifen Schal

Gratis-Strickanleitung: Streifen, Streifen und Streifen SchalThis is the German translation of my  "Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf" pattern -  as published a few days ago.

Dieser leichte Frühlingsschal wird von einer Spitze zur anderen gestrickt. Er besteht aus drei Teilen, die jeweils in einem 45 Grad-Winkel zueinander stehen. Der ganze Schal ist kraus-rechts  gestrickt mit verkürzten Reihen im mittleren Teil. Die Farben werden jeweils alle zwei Reihen gewechselt.

Wenn der Schal mit den unten angegebenen Maschenzahlen gestrickt wird, sollte das fertige Werk etwa 190 cm lang und 27 cm weit werden.



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Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.



Benötigtes Material
  • Insgesamt ca. 100 Gramm Sockengarn (4-fädig) – ich habe einen Strang in hellgrau (F1) und einen Strang mit sehr buntem Farbverlauf (F2) verwendet
  • 3.5 mm Stricknadeln
  • Nähnadel, um die Fäden zu vernähen

Techniken
  • Verkürzte Reihen: Ein deutsches Video, das verkürzte Reihen erklärt, findet man hier (bei Drops). Wenn man kraus-rechts strickt, kann man entscheiden, ob man die Wicklung um die Maschen jeweils “aufhebt” (Wicklung über die Masche heben und gemeinsam abstricken - wie im Video gezeigt) oder nicht. Mir gefällt das Strickstück deutlich besser, wenn die Maschen "aufgehoben" werden. Aber egal, wie man sich entscheidet, man sollte konsistent bleiben.
    In der Anleitung wird die Abkürzung "w+t" verwendet um anzuzeigen, dass die nächste Masche umwickelt werden und das Strickstück gedreht werden soll.


Weitere Abkürzungen
  • F1: Farbe 1
  • F2: Farbe 2
  • HR: Hinreihe (Vorderseite)
  • RR: Rückreihe (Rückseite)
  • M: Masche(n)
  • kfb: aus einer Masche zwei herausstricken, indem man zuerst eine Masche aus dem vorderen, dann eine aus dem hinteren Maschenglied strickt
  • ssk: nach links geneigte Abnahme, indem man zwei Maschen nacheinander rechts abhebt und dann rechts zusammen strickt

Anleitung

Das Bild auf der rechten Seite zeigt die generelle Konstruktion an, genauer gesagt, wie die drei Teile zusammen einen dreieckigen Schal ergeben.

Teil 1 – Zunahmen
Mit F1 zwei Maschen anschlagen
Reihe 1 (F1, HR): 2 M rechts
Reihe 2 (F1, RR): kfb, 1 rechts
Reihe 3 (F2, HR): ssk, bis zum letzten Stich rechts, kfb
Reihe 4 (F2, RR): kfb, bis zum Ende rechts
Reihe 5 (F1, HR): ssk, bis zum letzten Stich rechts, kfb
Reihe 6 (F2, RR): kfb, bis zum Ende rechts

Die Reihen 3 bis 6 solange wiederholen, bis 90 Stiche auf der Nadel sind oder bis die Länge der „Abnehmkante“ in etwa einem Drittel der gewünschten Schallänge entspricht.

Teil 2a – Verkürzte Reihen, die weiter werden
Reihe 1 (F2, HR+RR): 1 M rechts, ssk, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 2 (F1, HR+RR): bis und inklusive der gewickelten Masche rechts stricken, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 3 (F2, HR+RR): bis zur gewickelten Masche stricken, ssk (d.h. die gewickelte Masche und die nächste zusammen stricken), w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 4 (F1, HR+RR): bis und inklusive der gewickelten Masche rechts stricken, w+t, zurück rechts bis zum Ende rechts stricken

Die Reihen 3 und 4 solange wiederholen, bis man mit der gewickelten Masche an der linken Seite angekommen ist.
Diese letzte Reihe (in C2, nachdem die  letzte Masche umwickelt wurde) wird wie folgt gestrickt: bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, letzte Masche (aufheben und) rechts stricken, Arbeit drehen, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken.

Jetzt sollte die Maschenanzahl ein Drittel niedriger sein als am Start von Teil 2a, also z.B. wenn man mit 90 Maschen begonnen hat, sollten es jetzt 60 sein.

Teil 2b – Verkürzte Reihen, die schmaler werden
Reihe 1 (F1, HR+RR): rechts bis zur letzten Masche  stricken, w+t, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 2 (F2, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, kfb, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken
Reihe 3 (F1, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken (d.h. in der HR bis vor den kfb-Stich stricken und dann den ersten Stich aus dem kfb der letzten Reihe umwickeln, d.h. die zweite Masche aus dem kfb wird in dieser Reihe (HR+RR) nicht gestrickt)
Reihe 4 (F2, HR+RR): rechts bis zur Masche VOR  der letzten gewickelten Masche stricken, w+t, kfb, zurück bis zum Ende rechts stricken

Reihen 3 und 4 solange wiederholen, bis der gestrickte Teil einer Reihe nur noch 2 Maschen umfasst.

Das Foto zeigt den Schal nachdem die ersten Reihen von Teil 2 gestrickt wurden.

Teil 3 - Abnahmen
Reihe 1 (F1, HR): bis zum  Ende rechts stricken (dabei alle gewickelten Maschen aufheben)
Reihe 2 (F1, RR): ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb
Reihe 3 (F2, HR): bis zu den letzten beiden Maschen rechts stricken, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken
Reihe 4 (F2, RR):  ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb
Reihe 5 (F1, HR):  bis zu den letzten beiden Maschen rechts stricken, 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken
Reihe 6 (F1, RR):  ssk, bis zur letzten Masche rechts stricken, kfb

Reihen 3 bis 6 solange wiederholen bis nur noch 2 Maschen auf der Nadel sind.
Diese Maschen abketten und die Enden vernähen.

Gratis-Strickanleitung: Streifen, Streifen und Streifen Schal

Dienstag, 25. März 2014

Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf

Free Knitting Pattern: Stripes, Stripes & Stripes ScarfThis light stripy spring scarf is
knitted from side to side. It's constructed in three parts - all at different angles.

The scarf is garter stitch only, with some short rows to shape the middle part. Colours are alternated every second row.

If knitted with the stitch count given below, the scarf measures about 190 cm in length and 27 cm in width.



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This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



I have written a german version of this pattern - it can be found here. Eine deutsche Version gibt es hier.

Material
  • A total of 100 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours (I used one skein of light grey yarn and one skein of variegated yarn)
  • 3.5 mm knitting needles
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques
  • Short Rows: A tutorial on short rows can be found here (http://www.oddknit.com/patterns/notes/techniques/shortrows.html). The abbreviation used here will be "w+t" (wrap and turn), i.e. wrap the yarn around the next stitch and turn your work.
    With garter stitch you can decide whether to pick up the wrapped stitches or not. I chose to pick them up - I even used a slightly more complicated way because I wanted to hide the wrap that was in last row's colour. First I turned the wrapped stitch, then I picked up the front part of the wrap and placed it on the needle, and finally I knitted it through the back loop. Whatever you choose, it's best to stay consistent throughout the project.


Instructions

The picture on the right shows the general construction, i.e. how the 3 parts fit together to produce a triangular scarf knitted from side to side - but with a slant.


Part 1 - Increasing
CO2 with colour 1 (white in the photos)
Row 1 (C1, RS):  k
Row 2 (C1, WS): kfb, k1
Row 3 (C2, RS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 4 (C2, WS): kfb, k to end
Row 5 (C1, RS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 6 (C1, WS): kfb, k to end
Repeat rows 3-6 until the ssk-edge measures about one third of the desired length (I repeated until I had 90 stitches on my needles)

Part 2a - Short rows getting wider
Row 1 (C2, RS+WS): k1, ssk, w+t, k to end
Row 2 (C1, RS+WS): k to and including wrapped stitch, w+t, k to end
Row 3 (C2, RS+WS): k to last wrapped stitch, ssk (i.e. knit wrapped stitch and next stitch together), w+t, k to end
Row 4 (C1, RS+WS): k to and including wrapped stitch, w+t, k to end

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have reached the left side.

The last row (C2, after the last stitch has been wrapped) is knitted as follows: k to last stitch, (pick it up and) knit it, turn work and knit back

The stitch count should be one third lower than at the beginning of part 2a, e.g. if your stitch count was 90 when you started thes part, it should be 60 now.

Part 2b - Short rows getting narrower
Row 1 (C1, RS+WS): k to last stitch, w+t, k to end
Row 2 (C2, RS+WS): k to st before last wrapped stitch, w+t, kfb, k to end
Row 3 (C1, RS+WS): k to 2 sts before last wrapped stitch (i.e. before the stitches that came from last row's kfb), w+t, k to end
(i.e. you wrap around one stitch from the kfb and leave the second one unknitted)
Row 4 (C2, RS+WS): k to st before last wrapped stitch, w+t, kfb, k to end

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are only two knitted stitches in the row.

The picture shows the scarf after a few rows of part 2b have been completed.
 
Part 3 - Decreasing
Row 1 (C1, RS): k to end (picking up all wrapped stitches)
Row 2 (C1, WS): ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 3 (C2, RS): k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 4 (C2, WS):  ssk, k to last stitch, kfb
Row 5 (C1, RS):  k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 6 (C1, WS):  ssk, k to last stitch, kfb

Repeat rows 3 to 6 until there are only 2 stitches left on your needles.
Bind off and weave in ends.

Free Knitting Pattern: Stripes, Stripes & Stripes Scarf

Dienstag, 18. März 2014

Stripes in Curious Angles

Still not sure how this scarf will look when it's finished ...

Freitag, 7. März 2014

Serpentina Mitts

These mitts were knitted during the time of carnival. I wanted to knit something with a slightly tipsy feeling - that's why I added
random surface crochet. Serpentina is the spanish word for a paper streamer :).

They are knitted sideways in simple stockinette stitch, with some shaping added using short rows.

Adding surface crochet is a good way to mix colours, especially with variegated yarn that has a dramatic colour change – as with the mitts in the picture where the colour changes from a very light pink to a dark turquoise.



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This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Important: the surface crochet is applied completely at random, i.e. the pattern below will NOT give a detailed descriptions where to put the surface crochet stitches. There are, however, tips of how to achieve a similar look.

Materials
  • ca. 30 grams of variegated fingering weight yarn
  • a long 3.5mm circular needles
  • a 2.5mm or 3mm crochet hook
  • scrap yarn (for provisional cast on)
  • tapestry needle (to weave in ends)

Techiques

Instructions

Provisionally cast on 45 stitches (if you use the crochet on method, this means crochet on your stitches with scrap yarn and knit the first row with the yarn you'll use for the mitts)
R1 (RS): sl1 k to end
R2 (WS): sl1 p to end

Repeat until there are 11 rows of stockinette stitch
R12: apply random loops and curves of surface crochet on RS - while doing so, cross the complete width of the mitt, end near the last stitch of this row (i.e. where you would have ended, had you knitted the row). Now the tip of your knitting needle is on the opposite side as your yarn, therefore, slip all stitches to correct this. Put the last crochet loop on your knitting needle.

R13 (RS): sl2, pass first slipped stitch over second slipped stitch, k9, place marker, k to end
R14 (WS, thumb row):
- sl1 p to last st before marker, k1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP the yarn around the next stitch (you want to create the opening for your thumb!)
- k12, w+t, p11, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k11 w+t, p10, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k7 w+t, p6, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k6 w+t, p5, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k4 w+t, p3, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k5 w+t, p4, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- k9 w+t, p8, k1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
- p to end
R15 (RS): sl1, k to end
R16 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue 4 more rows of stockinette stitch
R20 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
knit 2 more rows of stockinette stitch
R24: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

The photo on the right shows the mitt after row 25, i.e. the thumb has been knitted and surface crochet has been applied twice.

R25 (RS): sl1, k to end
R26 (WS): sl1, p to end
continue in stockinette 7 more rows
R30 (WS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, p39, w+t, k20, w+t, p to end
R31 (RS): sl1, k to end
R32: appy surface crochet on RS (as in R12)

Repeat rows R25 to R32 two more times (or until the mitts are wide enough for your hands continue 5 more rows in in stockinette stitch.

Undo your provisional cast on and put the stitches on a second needle. Break yarn and thread yarn into a tapestry needle. Hold both needles together and start grafting in stockinette stitch.

You can knit the second mitt exactly as the first one, however, if you want them to be more symmetrical (i.e. with the graft line mirror-inverted at the same place), you have to use a slightly different set of instructions for the second mitt:
  • start "thumb row" one row later (row 14 is just a normal purl-row) and knit it as follows:
    - sl1 k to last st before marker, p1, TURN but DO NOT WRAP - p12, w+t, k11, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p11 w+t, k10, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p7 w+t, k6, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p6 w+t, k5, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p4 w+t, k3, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p5 w+t, k4, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - p9 w+t, k8, p1 turn (DO NOT WRAP)
    - k to end 
  • start "shaping rows" one row later (i.e. the row before is just a normal purl row) and knit them as follows:R21 (RS, shaping row to widen the upper part): sl1, k39, w+t, p20, w+t, k to end


How to apply the surface crochet to get a similar look to the mitts in the photo
1) When applying surface crochet try to use all of the available space – not just the rows you last knitted. This also helps to distribute the colours.
2) Furthermore try to avoid crocheting straight lines, go for loops and curves instead.
3) The first time you apply surface crochet don’t make the loops too close to one another, when you do it the next time, you can (should) go over them again and you’ll need space for it.
    4) After grafting the application of surface crochet gets more difficult (it gets cumbersome to hold the yarn within the newly formed tube and reach it with your crochet hook from the outside), therefore it’s easier to apply it before grafting. However, to get a consistent look, some surface crochet should be applied crossing the grafted row. The photo on the right shows how some surface crochet crosses the "graft line" (where turquois meets pink).
    5) Since the mitts are knitted in stockinette stitch, they tend to roll in at the side; it rolls in less if the surface crochet loops come close to the edges



    Samstag, 1. März 2014

    Entangled

    Fingerless gloves knitted sideways with lots of random surface crochet ... 

    Freitag, 21. Februar 2014

    Pieces of Eight Mitts

    It was a topological challenge for me to get these  mitts right.  These fancy fingerless gloves are knitted in one piece (no yarn cutting involved) beginning at the thumb. The "Eight”-Shape is achieved by increasing in the first part of a row, and decreasing in the second part.

    Free Knitting Pattern: Pieces of Eight Mitts





    Creative Commons License
    This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

    Dansk / Danish: A danish version is available here on strikkeglad.dk or here as a PDF. With big thanks to MarianneHo (Ravelry name). Mange tak!

    Dutch / Nederlands: Carolien (or mijikke on Ravelry) has provided a Dutch translation of the Pieces of Eight Mitts. Hartelijk bedankt! You can find it here on my blog.

    Japanese / 日本語: A video tutorial in japanese has been provided by Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと). It can be found on YouTube here: Part 1, Part 2


    Deutsch / German: Two german versions of these have been written by Renate Schattschneider:
    Eine deutsche Version von diesen Handschuhen wurde von Renate Schattschneider erstellt:


    A crochet version of this pattern - called Octavo Fingerless Gloves - is available here.

    Techniques
     A knitter who wants to knit these mitts should know the following techniques:
    • k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch  and p1, yo, p1 into the same stitch (i.e. double increases)
    • Cable cast-on midwork: As shown in this video.
    • Three-needle bind-off – as shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU
    • Grafting: stockinette & garter stitch.
    • How to knit a circle – since the effect is done with circle increases and decreases, it’s helpful if the general idea is known: In general a circle is knitted as follows:
      CO8 and join in round
      Round 1 and all odd numbered rounds: k
      Round 2: *k1 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 2nd stitch is doubled) (-> 16 sts)
      Round 4: * k2 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 3rd stitch is doubled)(-> 24 sts)
      Round 6: * k3 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 4th stitch is doubled) (-> 32 sts)
      Round 8: * k4 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 5th stitch is doubled) (-> 40 sts)
      … The formula should clear by now, i.e. that you increase by 8 stitches every other row. It also means that the distance between the "doubled" stitches increases by one in each of the increase-rounds. The same formula will be used when constructing the mitts - increasing around the thumbs and decreasing at the lower wrist part. If you do the increases always at the same spot a pattern (maybe even corners) will become visible; to achieve a more circular look I started the increases at a randomized stitch in each increase row.
    • Picking-up a selvage stitch and joining it at right angles to your knitting (similar to entrelac knitting): at the end of the WS row wyif a stitch is picked up from the side. After turning the work, this stitch is knitted together with the first stitch of the RS row. A slightly different way of doing it is shown here - ending up with the same result, i.e. joining the last stitch with a "stitch" picked up from the edge. Please note, that in case of these mitts the join is not side-to-side, but side-to-cast-on-row
    • Furthermore, you should be comfortable with the idea to “smooth out” certain differences in stitch counts. It's no big deal if there is one stitch too many - you can always fix it in the next row by decreasing one.
    • Please note, that the mitts are mirror inverted – to achieve this, the one mitt is turned inside out at one point (at this point RS becomes WS and WS becomes RS). 
    Free Knitting Pattern: Pieces of Eight MittsThe picture on the right shows where the techniques are used - referring also to the work steps as described in the instructions.


    Non-Standard Abbreviations
    • kyok: k1, leave on needle, yo and knit again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
    • pyop: p1, leave on needle, yo and purl again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
    • w+t: Wrap and turn - a technique for knitting short rows. It is shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.

    Materials
    • 35 grams of fingering weight yarn (a list of the yarns I used is given at the end of this post)
    • a set of 3mm dpns and a 3mm circular needle – I changed needles throughout the project
    • 2 stitch markers
    • tapestry needle (for kitchener stitch and to weave in ends)

    Instructions

    The picture on the left illustrates how your knitting should look after completing some of the steps.

    NOTE: Please note that the sequences to be repeated don't always match the number of stitches left (e.g. it might say "* kfb k6 repeat from *", but there are only 4 stitches left) - that's OK. Just continue with the sequence and stop when you run out of stitches (in case of the example above, just knit the kfb and knit the 3 stitches to the end).

    First Mitt

    Thumb
    Step 1: CO18
    Step 2: Knit 8 rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
    Step 3: Knit one round as follows: “k1, p1, k1, pyop, k1, p1, repeat from *  (there should be 24 stitches on your needles)
    Step 4: Knit 5 more rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
    Only the thumb (steps 1 to 4) is knitted in the round, after that everything else is knitted back and forth in rows (steps 5 and following).

    Step 5:
    The stitch you're at right now will be called “starting point” during this step.
    Row 1 (RS): k20 place marker (“marker 1”) k4, cast on 4 stitches (with cable cast on), place marker (“marker 2”), cast on 70 stitches
    Row 2 (WS): k back to starting point; pick up and knit one or two stitches from gap between the  last stitch and the recently cast-on stitches; wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the first of the recently cast-on stitches (just as you’d do for entrelac).
    Now the circle increases and decreases are started: there will be increases up to marker 1, plain knitting between the two markers, and decrease from marker 2 to the end of row.
    Row 3 (RS): k2tog (the stitch you just picked up and the first stitch of the row), *k2 kfb repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k8 repeat from ** to end
    Row 4 and all other even rows until the next step (WS): k to starting point, wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the cable cast on
    Row 5 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k1 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k4 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
    Row 7 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k3 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k7 ssk repeat from ** to end
    Row 9 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
    Row 11 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k4 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
    Row 13 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k1 kfb k6 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
    Row 15 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k7 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
    Row 17 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k2 kfb k7 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
    Row 19 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k5 kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
    Row 21 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k8 kfb k3 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end
    Row 23 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), k to marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end

    Step 6:
    There should now be 3 stitches between marker 2 and the end – adding up to 11 together with the stitches from between the markers – these 11 stitches will be on one needle for the three-needle bind-off. With another needle pick-up 11 stitches from the edge, do a three-needle bind-off over these 11 stitches. Make sure the bind-off is done from the WS. Remove the markers.
    If the stitch number doesn’t match exactly, move one stitch from one needle to the other, or use one stitch from the other side of marker 1.
    After the three needle bind off, knit back to starting point counting the stitches. There should be 93 stitches.


    Step 7: First Set of short Short-Rows to widen the wrists
    Place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
    Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
    Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
    Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
    Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 7 (RS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.
    (The stitches you did before the BO will not be knitted until they are grafted during part 10 - you can leave them on your needles (especially if you're using long circulars) or you can put them on a stitch holder. As you can see from the photos, I just left them where they were.)

    Step 8: Second Set of Short Rows to widen the wrists
    Still on the RS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
    Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
    Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
    Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
    Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
    Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

    Step 9: Widen the mitt
    You now knit several rows of garter stitch until the mitt is wide enough to fit your hands, i.e.
    Row 1 (WS): sl1 k
    Row 2 (RS): sl1 k
    Row 3 (WS): sl1 k
    While you're knitting the first rows during step 9 count your stitches and compare it with the stitch number on the other side (i.e. the ones you left after step 7), if the numbers are not equal, increase of decrease to get an equal number of stitches (decreases are best done somewhere close to the marker).
    Repeat rows  2 and 3 six more times (or until the mitt fits).

    Step 10: Graft sides together
    Cut yarn leaving a tail of about 1 meter. With tapestry needle graft sides together in garter stitch.


    Second Mitt
    Free Knitting Pattern: Pieces of Eight Mitts

    The instructions for the second mitt are similar to the first one. Except that at one point, the mitt is turned inside out in order to mirror-invert the curves. Only the differences to the first mitt are listed here.

    Knit Steps 1 through 5 as described for the Left Hand mitts except the steps listed below.


    Step 3: Knit one round as follows: * k1, p1, kyok,  p1, k1, p1 repeat from *


    Step 6:
    Turn mitt inside out. Everything on your mitt that was RS is now WS (and vice versa). Make sure to do the three-needle bind off from the NEW WS.

    Step 7:
    The first short rows will be added at the opposite side, i.e.place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
    Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
    Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
    Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
    Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.

    Step 8:
    Here also the sides are mirror inverted (compared to the first mitt), i.e.

    Still on the WS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
    Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
    Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
    Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
    Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
    Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
    Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

    Step 9:
    Knit the same number of garter stitch rows you knitted for the first mitt.

    Step 10:
    Graft in stockinette stitch.



    Yarns
    The "eight"-effect comes out best when using variegated yarn, here's the list of yarns I used for the mitts in the photos.
    Free Knitting Pattern: Pieces of Eight Mitts



    Dienstag, 4. Februar 2014

    Winding Mitts

    Free Knitting Pattern: Windings MittsThese "garter stitch only" mitts are
    constructed from two rhomboids - the thumb panel and a main part.
    Short row triangles in wind their way around your wrists creating a unique pattern.





    Creative Commons License
    This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.


    Materials:
    • A total of 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours
      - Main Colour (MC) – white on the photo
      - Contrast Colour (CC) – dark on the photo
    • 3mm needles (straight needles for thumb panel and main part – dpns for finishing the thumbs)
    • Stitch holders or scrap yarn
    • Tapestry needle

    Techniques or Abbreviations:
    • Grafting in Garter Stitch: Cut the yarn but leave a long enough tail (I usually take about 5 to 6 times the length of the seam). Put the yarn on a tapestry needle. For setting up insert tapestry needle purlwise into the first stitch - first on the front needle, then on the back needle. * Now insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch, then insert it purlwise in the next stitch but leave that on the needle. Do the same on the back needle - then repeat from * until there are no more stitches on your needles.
      If my explanation is too wordy, I found a video that shows it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAEIogIli6o
    The picture below shows the general construction of the mitts. As you can see, left hand mitt and right hand mitt are mirror inverted. That's why there will be two different descriptions - one for each mitt.


    Left mitt (with left-leaning thumb panel)


    Thumb panel

    With Main Colour CO9
    R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
    R4 (RS): sl1 ssk k4 kfb k1
    Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

    Now the thumb increases start: In short,  you make 12 increases (6 on each side of the thumb) distributed over 14 rows, while keeping up the increases and decreases at the sides. But, here it is in detail:

    R53: s1 k1 place marker k2 place marker k to end
    R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R55: sl1 k to end
    R56: sl1 ssk,  k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
    R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R58: s1 k to end
    R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R60: sl1, ssk, k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
    R61: sl1, k to end
    R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R63: sl1, k to end
    R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 ssk, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 2 sts before end, kfb k1
    R65: sl1, k to end
    R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
    R68: s1 ssk k4 kfb k1
    R69-71: sl1 k to end
    Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
    R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle

    Still with MC, pick up and knit 47 stitches from the left side of the thumb panel, you have now  48 stitches on your needle, your working yarn is now on the lower edge of the mitt

    Main part

    With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

    Row 1 (CC, RS): kfb, k to 2 sts before end, k2tog (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
    Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k31 w+t
    Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
    Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k15 w+t
    Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 2 sts before end, k2tog
    Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
    Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
    Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
    Row 9 (MC, RS): kfb, k31 w+t
    Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
    Row 11 (MC, RS): k17, w+t
    Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

    Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6.) After a few repeats your mitt should look as shown in the photo.


    With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

    With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

    Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


    Thumb

    Move the thumb stitches from the stitch holder to two dpns. Pick up and knit 4 stitches from above the thumb gusset. Knit the stitches that were on the stitch holders up until the last stitch. p2tog (this closes a potential the gap between the stitches from the stitch holder and the newly picked up stitches), p2, p2tog (to close the gap on the other side of the thumb). Purl to the end of round.

    Round 3: k
    Round 4: p

    Repeat until 3 more times (or until the thumb is long enough). Bind off.

    Weave in ends.


    Right Mitt (with right-leaning thumb panel)

    Basically, this mitt is the mirror image of its partner, so increases and decreases (especially at the edges) are exchanged. Furthermore, the thumb is started at a different point. But here are the instructions in detail. The parts that differ from the left mitt have been underlined.

    Thumb Panel

    With Main Colour CO9
    R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
    R4 (RS): s1 kfb k4 k2tog k1
    Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

    The thumb increases are similar to the ones on the other mitt - the only difference is the starting point.

    R53: s1 k4, place marker, k2, place marker, k to end
    R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R55: sl1 k to end
    R56:  s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

    R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to endR58: s1 k to end
    R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R60: s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
    R61: sl1, k to end
    R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
    R63: sl1, k to end
    R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 kfb, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1
    R65: sl1, k to end
    R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end

    R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
    R68: s1 kfb, k4, k2tog, k1
    R69-71: sl1 k to end
    Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
    R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle


    Free Knitting Pattern: Windings Mitts
    Main part

    With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

    Row 1 (CC, RS): ssk, k to 1 st before end, kfb (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
    Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k33 w+t
    Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
    Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k17 w+t
    Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 1 sts before end, kfb
    Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
    Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
    Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
    Row 9 (MC, RS): ssk, 28 w+t
    Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
    Row 11 (MC, RS): k13, w+t
    Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

    Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6)

    With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

    With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

    Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


    Finish the thumb as described for the left hand mitt.

    Free Knitting Pattern: Windings Mitts