Sankaku Wrist Warmers in Crochet

Currently, there are roughly 100 knitting patterns available on my blog. Some of them have been quite successful, but others haven't ... and there are even some that I had nearly forgotten. One of these is the Triangulation Wrist Warmers knitting pattern that I published about four years ago.

So I was really surprised when I received an e-mail from a German knitter who had tried to translate it and had stumbled upon some blatant mistakes that I made when I wrote the pattern. However, she was so nice as to put them into very diplomatic questions. 

That made me review the whole pattern and correct a lot of the mistakes. ... And this activity made me think of the pattern again and gave the idea of doing something similar in crochet. Et volià - here it is. 

These wrist warmers are one in one piece - starting from the outside of the wrist and finished at the thumb. Like their knitted cousins, they are nice to showcase your variegated yarn.
I made these with fingering weight yarn. However, most of the pattern is written in a way that you can adapt it to other yarn weights as well. 

As to the name, Sankaku (三角) is the Japanese word for triangle.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 45 grams of fingering weight yarn (I used Lang Jawoll Magic, because I like the effect of the color variations)
• a 3mm crochet hook
• three removable stitch markers - one different from the others (safety pins work as well)
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge or What to Measure
If you're knitting for your own hands, you just have to try it on a few times before finishing. If you're knitting for somebody else, you'll need the following measurements:

• hand circumference at wrist height or a bit lower - depending on how long you want your wrist warmers
• total height of the wrist warmers - from the point where you measured the lower circumference to just below your hand knuckles
• hand circumference just below knuckle height
• thumb circumference

As with many of my patterns, it is written in a way that you can adjust it to your hand size and won't include exact stitch counts but rather you'd be asked to continue until something is wide enough to fit around your hands or similar. If you're uncomfortable with instructions like that, the pattern might not be for you.

However, I will give you an example of the wrist warmers I crocheted in purple.

The wrist warmers I made measured 17 cm in height and had about 19 cm circumference at the lower edge.

Abbreviations and Stitches

• ch: chain 
• sc: single crochet (American notation)
• sctbl: single crochet through back loop: http://crochet.about.com/od/crochetterms/tp/back-loops-only-or-blo.htm
• sl st: slip stitch: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-crochet-the-slip-stitch.html
• inc: increase by working 2 single crochet stitches into 1 sc below (in case of this pattern, it's 2 sctbl into the sctbl below): http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-increase-with-single-crochet.html
• dec or sctog: decrease by working 2 single crochet stitches 
• tc: turning chain

Construction

Construction

One mitt is worked in one piece - and in five parts as shown in the picture on the right.
Part 1 is started with two stitches only and worked back and forth with increases in the middle and on the sides to make up a triangle.
Part 2 is worked in the round - BUT, you will be changing directions after every row, i.e. one row is worked from the outside and the next from the inside of the piece. There are increases at the outer edge and decreases at the inner edge of the mitt.
Part 3 is worked back and forth around the inner edge of the hand and creating an open edging at the top.
Part 4 is started with a chain above the thumb and then worked in the round - but again changing directions after each round. The stitch count is decreased to fit snugly around your thumb.
Part 5 (the thumb) is the only part that is truely worked in the round without altering the crocheting direction.


Instructions

NOTE 1: all increase and decrease stitches in this part are crocheted through the back loop of the underlying stitch only.

Part I - Worked Flat
Row 1: ch2, 1 tc
Row 2: inc, inc, 1 tc
Row 3: inc, inc, place marker (will be called top marker), inc, inc, 1 tc

Row 4: inc, sctbl to top marker, inc, inc, sctbl to 1 bef end, inc, 1 tc
Repeat row 4 until the lower edge of the triangle is wide enough to fit around your wrist. Don't work the last turning chain. Your piece will now look similar to illustration 1.

For me the piece was wide enough after row 16, that means that I had a total of 64 stitches - or 32 per slope of the triangle.

NOTE 2: As to the handling of the stitch markers for increases around a point: in crochet, it's difficult to place a stitch marker between two stitches, so I'd do as follows: when I reached the point where the two increases were to be worked, I removed the marker, did the two increases and afterwards place the marker into the first stitch of the second increase. That way, after turning my work, the stitch marker would mark the first stitch into which I had to increase in the next row.

NOTE 3: During part I, your stitch count will increase by 4 sts in each row - or by 2 sts per slope of the triangle. I.e. the number of sctbls between in increases also increases by 2 sts per row (on each slope). So, if you prefer not to use stitch markers, you can count your sctbl stitches from beginning increase to middle increase. In row 4, there are 2 sts, in row 5 4 sts, in row 6 6 sts, in row 7 8 sts and so on.

Part II
Fold the piece around the middle (see illustration 2) and attach the two lower tips of the triangle to each other with a slip stitch. Place a marker here (will be called lower marker). Work a turning chain and turn work.
Row 1 (inside): dec, sctbl to top marker, inc, inc, sctbl to 2 bef lower marker, dec, connect to first dec of the row with slip stitch, tc and turn
Row 2 (outside): dec, sctbl to top marker, inc, inc, sctbl to 2 bef lower marker, dec, connect to first dec of the row with slip stitch, tc and turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the edge of the top marker (i.e. the longer side edge) is as high as you want the mitt to be. DON'T TURN after the last row.

For me this was the case after 9 repeats or 18 rows.

NOTE 4: The change of direction after each row is done to keep the texture of the sctbl-rows.

NOTE 5: Stitch marker handling for the decreases ...

NOTE 6: During part II, each row has the same number of increases than decreases. That means that your stitch count stays the same.

Illustrations (click to enlarge)

Part III
From now on the working direction will change, from around the top marker, to around the lower marker. To keep the texture of the piece, the next row should be started at the top marker - however, the working yarn currently is at the lower marker.
If you're not averse to cutting yarn in the middle of a project, cut your yarn and attach it at the upper marker for row 1 of part III. If you're like me (and want to avoid weaving in more ends at any cost), you can cheat a bit and do slip stitches on the inside (or just through the back loop of the current row) to the top. Once you crochet back tbl from the inside, these slip stitches will be hidden. When you've reached the top marker turn with a turning chain.

Row 1 (inside): dec, sctbl. to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef top marker, dec, tc
Row 2 (outside): dec, sctbl. to 2 bef end, dec, tc

Remove the top marker after these rows.
After row 1 your piece should look similar to illustration 3.

Row 3 (inside): dec, sctbl. to 2 bef end, dec, tc
Row 4 (outside): dec, sctbl. to 2 bef end, dec, tc

NOTE 7: Rows 2 to 3 don't have decrases around the lower marker, i.e. the wrist warmers will get wider at this point. This widening makes a sort of thumb gusset. If you feel - while working part III - that you need more room to accomodate the widening of your hands, you can always do another row 3 or 4 instead of a row 5 or 6.

Row 5 (inside): dec, sctbl. to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 2 bef end, dec, tc
Row 6 (outside): dec, sctbl. to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 2 bef end, dec, tc

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until the upper edge covers about 75% of the hand circumference just below your knuckles.

For me this was the case after 12 rows.


Part IV 
Now the opening above the thumb needs to be closed. This is done by crocheting a chain from one of the upper edges to the other. (See illustrations 4 and 5).

Chain: place a marker (called marker 1) chain 10 and connect this chain to the other edge with a slip stitch, tc and turn, place a marker here as well (called end marker, since it marks the end of a round)
Try on the wrist warmer to see whether it fits or measure whether the total upper circumference is equal to the measurement you took. It should fit comfortably. If it's too tight or too wide, adjust the number of chain stitches accordingly.

Round 1 (inside): sc to 2 bef marker 1, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 2 bef end marker, dec, connect to first stitch of that round with slip stitch, tc and turn
Round 2 (outside): dec, sctbl to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef marker 1, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef end marker, dec, connect to first stitch of that round with slip stitch, tc and turn

After these rounds your piece should look similar to illustration 6.
Round 3 (inside): dec, sctbl to 2 bef marker 1, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 2 bef end marker, dec, connect to first stitch of that round with slip stitch, tc and turn
Round 4 (outside): dec, sctbl to 1 bef lower marker, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef marker 1, dec, dec, sctbl to 1 bef end marker, dec, connect to first stitch of that round with slip stitch, tc and turn

Try it on to check whether the opening fits snugly around your thumb. If it's still too wide, work another round. Repeat.

If you ended on an inside round, turn your work before moving on to part V. If your last round was an outside round, don't turn, but go on working in the same direction. Part V will only be worked from the outside.

Part V
Now the opening is just wide enough to fit snugly around your thumb. Remove all markers except end marker.
Round 1: sctbl to end marker
Round 2: sc to end marker
Repeat round 2 three more times (or until the thumb is as long as you'd like it).
End with a slip stitch into the next stitch.

Weave in ends.
Make two.

Pulswärmer "Triangulation" - Gratis-Strickanleitung

Bernadette von „Törtchens Blog“ hat sich die Mühe gemacht, die Anleitung für die Triangulation Wrist Warmers in Deutsche zu übersetzen. Ganz herzlichen Dank dafür!

Dabei hat sie viele, viele Fehler in der Originalanleitung gefunden, die ich daraufhin verbessern konnte. Auch dafür vielen herzlichen Dank! Ihre Erfahrungen hat sie in diesem Blogpost verarbeitet.

Die deutsche Gratis-Strickanleitung als PDF gibt es hier.

The (corrected) original pattern in english is available here.
Die (korrigierte) Originalanleitung auf Englisch gibt es hier.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Jeans and Old Lace

After knitting quite a few socks with intarsia in the round (e.g. here or here), I wanted to apply this technique to fingerless gloves. I also wanted to challenge myself a bit by knitting lace - something that usually requires lots of concentration on my part ... and with this lace pattern, it did!

The result is an elegant pair of fingerless gloves in two colors with a delicate lace pattern on the back of your hand that stands out because it is knitted in a contrasting color. The palm side is knitted in plain stockinette stitch using the main color.

If you're a beginner at knitting, you'd probably want to start with a normal "loom-style" pair of fingerless gloves with a lace pattern that's not quite as challenging (e.g. this one). Plus, if you knit intarsia in the round for the first time, it can be a bit fiddly.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 35 to 45 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors - I used about 10 grams of grey yarn (CC) and 30 grams of blue yarn (MC), I'd advise to use a solid color as CC to make the lace pattern stand out
• 2.5mm circular knitting needles - I used the magic loop method, but you can use dpns, too - I also used dpns to knit the thumb
• a stitch holder to hold your thumb stitches - e.g. scrap yarn
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Intarsia in the round with yarn-overs before turning: as shown in this YouTube video by Julia farwell-clay. Basically you knit back and forth even though your stitches are arranged in the round - and you have to consider rounds in pairs - one RS row and one WS row. You start with your main color (MC) on the RS, then - as in normal intarsia you change (by twisting the yarns) - to contrast color (CC) and knit your CC part, After finishing this you turn your work, make a yarn-over and do the WS with CC, when you get to the MC part you change back as in normal (flat) intarsia to MC.
  Now with MC you work your way on the WS not only to the start of the round, but further to the point where you ended the CC part. Here you p2tog the last MC stitch with the yarn over in CC. Then you turn - again with a yarn over - and do the RS part to the beginning of the round. That's the two round finished.
  When - during the next pair of rounds - you reach the new yarn over on the RS, you have to do an ssk of the last stitch in CC with the yarn over in MC.
  In this pattern the following notation will be used: "MC [k7]; CC [k23]" means knit 7 sts in MC, change to CC and knit 23 sts in CC, i.e. the color is indicated before the knitting instructions - the instructions are in square brackets and a semicolon indicates a change of color.
• Magic Loop Method: as shown in this YouTube video by KnitPicks.
• Backwards Loop CO: as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.

Gauge and Measurements
One finished mitt measures 19 cm in height and 17 cm in diameter. If you want to adjust the width of the mitts, you can change the number of stitches in MC. If you want them longer, adjust the number of pattern repeats accordingly.
In stockinette stitch 16 sts gave 5 cm in width, and 22 rows 5cm in height.

Construction
Even though this piece is knitted in the round, there is a change of direction after every row. That's because it is knitted in intarsia where one round is knitted from the outside of the sock and the next from the inside. This means that at one point in the round you change the color just as in normal (flat knitted) intarsia knit, i.e. where you twist your two strands of yarn (called color changing point or CCP in the pattern) and at another point you attach the colors while you're turning by knitting together the last stitch of the current round with a yarn-over you did in the round below (called turning point or TP in the pattern).

On the right you can find a schematic of the stitch distribution when knitting with the Magic Loop technique.

The color changing point never moves, i.e. every stitch is knitted in the same color as the stitch in the row below.


Lace Pattern and Special Stitches
Below you can find a chart of the lace pattern - I used the Bellflowers patten that I found on knittingfool.com.
For the purpose of knitting these fingerless gloves, the last stitch of each WS row (even numbered row) corresponds to the turning point will connect the lace piece to the part knitted in MC, i.e. you do a k2tog of the last stitch with the yarn over you did at the beginning of the round.

Lace Chart (click to enlarge)

• yo: yarn over
• k2tog: knit 2 together, right leaning decrease
• ssk: slip slip knit, left leaning decrease
• k3tog: knit 3 together, right leaning double decrease
• sl1 k2tog psso:  left leaning double decrease, alternatively you can do an sssk (slip slip slip knit)
• k4tog: knit 4 together
• sl1 k3tog psso: slip
• no stitch: When there are more decreases than increases in one row, the stitch number decreases. The no stitch symbol is used as a place holder to ensure that the chart is still aligned.

I'd strongly advise to count the stitches on your needles just after you've finished the lace piece (in order to make sure that you've just the right number you need for the next round). I had to tink back quite a few times ...

Instructions

In CC CO19 and in MC CO33 (see illustration 1)
Turn work - do not join in round yet.
Row 0: MC [ * p2, k2 repeat from * until 1 st bef CCP, p1 ]; CC [ p1, k2, * p2, k2 repeat from * to end] - when crossing the two yarns at CCP, cross in front
From the beginning of the row, divide the stitches into the following three parts: of 22, 26 and 4 sts (see illustration 2). Join in round

Illustrations (click to enlarge)

Ribbing
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from CCP, p2, k1]; MC [k1, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, ssk] - with the ssk, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning - your piece should look similar to illustration 3.
Round 2 (inside): MC  [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 1 st from CCP, p1]; CC [p1, k2 * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, k2tog] - with the k2tog, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 once more.

Now start the lace pattern:

Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 2: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 3: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 4: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]

Round 5: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k4tog, yo k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 6: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]

Round 7: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 8: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 9: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, ssk, ssk, yo ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 10: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 11: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo,  k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k2tog psso, sl1, k2tog, psso, ssk,  yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 12: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]

Round 13: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, sl1 k3tog psso, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 14: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 15: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 16: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Repeat rounds 1 to 16 once more. Then repeat rounds 1 to 6.

Thumb Gusset
For the thumb gusset, the "normal" rounds are slightly altered - i.e. there will be markers put in place and there will be increases along these markers every 4th row. these changes will be printed in boldface.  The rest of the round stays the same - that's why the row numbers are kept (but with an added t for "thumb").
To knit the thumb gusset on different sides of the lace pattern, there will be two versions of round 7 - one for the right hand mitt, and one for the left hand mitt.

Round 7t - first mitt: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k5 pm k2 pm, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]
Round 7t - second mitt: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 7 bef TP pm k2 pm, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 8t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 9t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, ssk, ssk, yo ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 10t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 11t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo,  k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k2tog psso, sl1 k2tog psso, ssk,  yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 12t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]

Round 13t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, sl1 k3tog psso, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 14t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]
Round 15t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 16t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 1t (outside): CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2tog, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker,  k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 2t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p15, k1, k2tog]

Round 3t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 4t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]

Round 5t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k4tog, yo k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, slip marker, mk1r, k to next m, mk1l, slip marker,  k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Round 6t: (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP]; CC [k2, p13, k1, k2tog]

Round 7t: (outside):  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Repeat rounds 8t to 16t once, then rounds 1t to 7t once, then rounds 8t to 16t once more, and then rounds 1t to 2t. Now there have been 7 increase rows, i.e. you have increased by 14 sts and there are 16 sts between the stitch markers.

Round 3tt:  CC [yo, p2, yo, k2tog, k3tog, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, yo, p2 (you should be at CCP now)]; MC [k to marker, put the 16 sts between the two stitch markers on a stitch holder, with backwards loop cast on, CO 2, k to 1 bef TP, ssk]

Now continue in lace pattern rounds 4 to 16.

Upper ribbing 
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from CCP, p2, k1]; MC [k1, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, ssk] - with the ssk, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning
Round 2 (inside): MC  [yo, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 1 sts from CCP, p1]; CC [p1, k2, * p2, k2 repeat from * until 3 sts from TP, p2, k1, k2tog] - with the k2tog, you'll join the last stitch in this row with the yo you did at the beginning
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 once more.
Bind of in pattern in 5th round.

Thumb
Put the 16 sts from the stitch holder back on your knitting needle(s). I distributed them evenly on two dpns. There is an upper edge just below the backwards loop CO with a gap on each side. In order to close this gap, you pick up some stitches from these gaps which will be decreased over the next few rounds.

Round 1: pick up and knit a total of 8 stitches from gaps and this edge, k15, ssk (i.e. you join the last stitch of this round with the first of the next). -> 23 sts
Round 2: k6, k2tog, k15 -> 22 sts
Round 3: k all
Round 4: k5, k2tog, k14, ssk (i.e. you join the last stitch of this round with the first of the next) -> 20 sts left
Round 5: k19 (i.e. k to end)
Round 6: k all
Repeat round 6 twice more.

Thumb Ribbing
Round 1: * k2, p2 repeat from * to end
Repeat round 1 twice more.
Bind off in pattern.

Make two.
Weave in ends - all 12 of them ... (at least 6 per mitt)

Knitting Gauge Ruler - Cut Out Template

I don't like swatching and I don't like to count gauge. This is especially clear in early patterns ... where I rarely even listed gauge or the size of the finished product. In fact, quite a few of my patterns are designed explicitely with the view of not knitting a swatch (e.g. these fingerless gloves, these slippers or this hat). They contain instructions like "repeat these rows until the piece is wide enough to fit around your wrists" or similar.

That said, there are also times where swatching and knitting gauge are extremely important - for example when you're knitting a bigger piece that you want to fit (e.g. this top and this tunic). If you skip the swatching and measuring gauge step here, you will probably end up with a piece that does not fit - which basically means that you've been knitting an oversized swatch.

Until recently, I used my measuring tape or a piece of squared paper with a 5 by 5 cm cut out rectangle. Not very neat, but it did the job. Then I saw on social media that there where specialized tools to do this (just google "gauge ruler" to find them) - and nice ones, too. So, I wanted something similar myself. And of course, I wanted to make it rather than just buy it.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



Here are two downloadable PDFs with cut out templates for a gauge ruler. One in A4 size and one in letter size.
(Edit: 03.10.2021: updated link to PDF - somehow google seems to have changed the links on GoogleDrive so the old links weren't working anymore)


Instructions

1. Print out template on cardstock or paper of the appropriate size. What kind of material you use is basically up to your printer and what kind of material it can handle. Make sure to use "actual size" option.
2. Check size of your print out. Inside the black lines of the cross, it should measure exactly 10 cm.
3. Cut out the cross in the middle using a utility knife - just inside the black lines (see picture on the right). Cut out around the octagon; I used scissors for that, but a blade or utility knife will do as well. There are three gauge rulers on one template. So you can have a bit of practice cutting them out - I certainly needed that :)

Use it to count the stitches of your swatch.

Rainbow Pearls Cowl

I was searching through my stash in order to find something for a new brioche scarf when I found this one beautiful 50 gram skein of Schulana Colorelli - a variegated yarn in a wonderful rainbow palette. I had bought it a few years ago with a view of knitting a pair of fingerless gloves for a friend (who wears bolder colors than I do), but somehow I never got round to knitting them and so the yarn was slumbering peacefully in one of my yarn boxes.

The Rainbow Pearls Cowl is knitted in the round from bottom to top and all in seed stitch. It is comfortably wide around the lower edge and narrows towards the top. It's an easy knitting project that is suitable for beginners. Since it is knitted with needles that are rather big for the yarn weight it has a very soft texture.

As to the name, Perlmuster ("pearl pattern" or "pearl stitch") is the german name for seed stitch.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• 50 grams of Light Fingering weight yarn - I used one skein of Schulana Colorelli (colorway 2) - here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page.
• 5 mm circular needles (I used 40 cm long ones), but you can use longer ones if you use the Magic Loop method
• a 5 mm crochet hook if you use the crochet CO (or - if you want to do another CO method a 6 mm or 7 mm knitting needle for a stretchy CO).
• two stitch markers - one different from the other
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Seed stitch: basically you just switch between one knit stitch and one purl stitch, in the next row, you do a purl stitch over the stitch that appears as a knit stitch in the row below and a knit stitch on the top of last row's purl stitch - here's a YouTube video by Studio Knit that shows how to do seed stitch.
• k2tog: knit 2 sts together
• p2tog: purl 2 sts together

I wanted to have very stretchy edges, that meant using CO and BO methods that are quite stretchy. I used the methods listed below. Alternatively, you can use bigger size needles for the CO and BO row.

• Crochet Cast On - a very stretchy CO method, basically you do a single crochet over your knitting needle. Here's a YouTube video by Pleasant Seas that shows the crochet cast on. 
• Stretchy Bind-Off - here's a YouTube video by Very Pink Knits that shows one method to do a stretchy bind-off.

Size and Gauge
In pattern (seed stitch) and blocked 8 stitches gave about 5 cm in width and 13 rounds 5 cm in height.
The finished cowl is 36 cm high and has a circumference of 92 cm on the bottom edge and 70 cm on the top edge.

Construction
The cowl is knitted in the round and all in seed stitch. It is started at the lower edge and decreased towards the top. Since it's seed stitch all decreases have to be done in pairs - in order to stay in pattern.

Instructions

CO141 sts and join in round - be careful not to twist the stitches and place a stitch marker (the "end-of-round marker)
Round 1: p1, * k1, p1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 2: k1, * p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 six more times

Round 15: p2tog, k2tog, * p1, k1 repeat from * 10 times, place 2nd marker (called "moving marker"),  *p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 16: k1, * p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 17: p1, * k1, p1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 18: k1, * p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Repeat round 13 and 14 twice more (i.e. you've knitted a total of 22 rounds)

Round 23: * p1, k1 repeat from * until you reach the moving marker, remove marker, p2tog, k2tog, * p1, k1 repeat from * 10 times, replace moving marker, *p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 24: k1, * p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 25: p1, * k1, p1 repeat from * until end of round
Round 26: k1, * p1, k1 repeat from * until end of round
Repeat round 25 and 26 twice more  (i.e. you've knitted a total of 30 rounds)

Repeat rounds 23 to 30 eight more times, i.e. you've knitted 10 rounds with decreases and a total of 94 rounds.
Round 95 = Round 1
Round 96 = Round 2
Repeat rounds 95 and 96 once more - or until there are about 5 meters of yarn left over.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Weave in ends and block gently.

Helgoland Mitts

It took me quite a while to get these mitts right. I had the original idea back in March 2014. At that time it just didn't work, but I had an idea what to do in order to actually make it work. However, it took me a while to start them again. I started again late in 2016 - and finished them in January 2017. Then it took me another nine months to write up the pattern ... but here they are.

The Helgoland mitts have a unique construction. They are started at the thumb, and afterwards knitted flat and in garter stitch. One mitt is knitted in one piece which minimizes the number of ends to weave in :)

A Danish version of this pattern has been written by Marianne Holmen from strikkeglad.dk . Mange tak!



This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• a total of 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors (C1 and C2)- roughly the same amount of each - for the mitts in the photos I used blue variegated yarn as C1 and beige yarn as C2
• 3mm circular knitting needles - I used 80mm circulars (with magic loop for the thumb) 
• one straight 3mm knitting needle to keep half of the remaining stitches after finishing part 2 - alternatively, you can use a (long) stitch holder or scrap yarn
• at least 2 stitch markers (plus optional 8 stitch markers)
• a third needle for three-needle BO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Notation

• Knitted Cast-On: http://youtu.be/-nJKC2xT0Q4 
• Picking up stitches from a gap or ditch: After both three needle bind-offs there is one left over stitch which tends to have a distance to the stitches next to it. To avoid holes, I usually pick up one stitch from the gap and decrease over the new stitch in the following row (see also this YouTube video where it is shown on the example of a thumb gusset). In my experience (or the way I knit :) it's even better to pick up two stitches and knit decreases over them in the following two rows.
• Three-Needle BO: The three needle bind-off is used to attach two pieces of knitting (or to ends of one piece of knitting) to one another - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by planetpurl.
• [X] y times: means knit whatever is written within the brackets y times
• There are also abbreviations for the wave sequences that are repeated throughout the pattern, namely:
• A = ssk, k3, kfb, kfb, k3, ssk
• B = kfb, k3, k2tog, k2tog, k3, kfb 

Gauge and Measurements

In garter stitch 5 ridges (i.e. 10 rows) gave 2 cm in height, and 5 stitches gave 2 cm in width.
The finished mitts are 20 cm high (at their highest point) and measure about 16 cm circumference at the cuff. However, the circumference is adaptable by knitting more or fewer rows in part 3).


General Construction

These fingerless gloves are knitted in one piece - the instructions are written in three parts.
Part 1 - the thumb - is knitted in the round. Part 2 starts with a knitted cast on and is then knitted back and forth - up the shaft,  around the thumb and down the shaft. Around the thumb there will be increases to create a flat circle (or rather upper part of a circle - a general formula to knit a circle can be found here).
Part 2 ends with a bind off at the top and half of the remaining stitches being kept on a stitch marker (or a spare knitting needle). Part 3 - also knitted flat - widens the mitt to fit your hands and ends with a three-needle bind off.
The second mitt is the mirror image of the first one. That's why there are different instructions for the second mitt.


Instructions

First Mitt

Part 1 - Thumb
With C1:
CO18 and join in round
Rounds 1 to 10: *p1 k1 p1 repeat from * to end
Round 11: *p1 k1 p1 mk1 repeat from * to end
Rounds 12 to 14: *p1 k1 repeat from * to end

Illustrations

Part 2
Row 1 (C1, RS): Place marker and with knitted cast on CO36. The piece now looks like a thumb part with a tail (see illustration 1). Now it is knitted back up that "tail", around the thumb and then back down at the underside of the "tail".
Row 2 (C1, WS): k to m, [k1, kfb, k1] 8 times, place marker, pick up 1 sts from the gap between the last stitch and the underside of the knitted CO, then pick up 36 sts from the underside of the knitted CO of row 1 - your piece should now look like in illustration 2.

One row now starts at the bottom of the shaft, leads around the thumb and down the shaft again. The two markers divide one row into 3 parts: the upwards shaft, the part around the thumb, and the downwards shaft.
In the upwards shaft a wave pattern will be knitted, a mirror image of this wave pattern will be knitted in the downwards shaft part, and around the thumb there will be increases in every 2nd row. These markers will be called "divider markers". As you can see on the illustrations, I've also put in stitch markers between the wave sequences on the shaft parts. Strictly speaking, these markers are not necessary, but helpful to keep your stitch count correct - however, they won't be mentioned in the pattern text.

Row 3 (C2, RS): k35, k2tog, k to end
Row 4 (C2, WS): [A] 3 times (you've reached the 1st dividing marker), [kfb, k3] 8 times, (you've reached the 2nd dividing marker), [B] 3 times

Row 5 (C1, RS): k to 1st marker remove marker, k6, replace marker, k to end
Row 6 (C1, WS): [A] 3 times, remove marker, k6, replace marker, [k2, kfb, k2] until there are 2 sts or fewer before the 2nd marker, k to marker, k6, [B] 3 times

Row 7 (C2, RS): k to 1st marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k2tog, k to end
Row 8 (C2, WS): [A] 3 times, k to 1st marker, k6, [k4, kbf, k1] until there are 4 sts or fewer before the 2nd marker, k to marker, k6, [B] 3 times

Row 9 (C1, RS): k to 1st marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k2tog, k to end
Row 10 (C1, WS): [A] 3 times, k to 2 sts bef 1st marker, ssk, [k3, kbf, k3] until there are 3 sts or fewer before the 2nd marker, k to marker marker, k2tog, k6, [B] 3 times

Row 11 (C2, RS): k to 1st marker, ssk, k to 2 sts before 2nd marker, k2tog, k to end
Row 12 (C2, WS): [A] 3 times, ssk, k3, kfb, [k2, kfb, k5] until there are 2 sts or fewer before 2nd marker, k to marker, k2tog, k3, kfb, [B] 3 times
Your piece should now look similar to illustration 3.

Row 13 (C1, RS): k to 1st marker remove marker, k6, replace marker, k to 2nd marker, remove marker, k to end
Row 14 (C1, WS): [A] 3 times, ssk, k3, kfb, k6, replace marker, [k6, kfb, k1] until there are 6 sts or fewer before the 2nd marker, k to marker, k6, k2tog, k3, kfb, [B] 3 times

Row 15 (C2, RS): k all sts
Row 16 (C2, WS): [A] 4 times, [k1, kfb, k8] until there is 1 sts or no stitch left before marker , B [4 times]

Row 17 (C1, RS): k all sts
Row 18 (C1, WS): [A] 4 times, [k3, kfb, k7] until there are 3 sts or fewer left before marker , B [4 times]

Row 19 (C2, RS): k to marker, remove marker, k12, replace marker, k to end
Row 20 (C2, WS), [A] 5 times (you can remove the stitch marker when you reach it), BO all sts to marker, [B] 5 times - if you're using a second 3mm needle you can knit the first part of the round (5*A) with the second needle. Alternatively, you can put these 60 sts on a stitch holder or scrap yarn afterwards after finishing row 20.

Part 3
Row 21 (C1, RS): k all sts
Row 22 (C1, WS): [B] 5 times
Row 23 (C2, RS): k all sts
Row 24 (C2, WS): [B] 5 times
Your piece should now look similar to illustration 4.

Repeat rows 21 to 24 until the mitt fits around your hands. Make sure to finish with a C2 row.

Put the stitches from the stitch holder back on a knitting needle - hold both edges right sides together and do a three needle BO in C2. 

Break yarn and weave in ends.

Second Mitt

In order to have the second mitt mirror the wave pattern of the first mitt, the waves need to be in opposite direction. That means that everytime the pattern for the first mitt states to knit sequence A, it needs to be replaced by B, and vice versa.

So, the first part (thumb) is knitted without any changes.
During the second part, the upwards part (on WS) is always knitted with sequence B and the downwards part with sequence A.
And during the third part, only sequence A is knitted.

Seitenstreifen Socks

During the last couple of months I have experimented a lot with intarsia in the round - mainly to knit socks. However, I had failed on producing a sock with one uninterrupted intarsia stripe from top to bottom: I had trouble with the CO as well as with the heel. So I was quite pleased when I managed to solve these problems and finished these socks.
These socks are knitted from the cuff down with a shadow wrap heel and ergonomically shaped toes. For the color effect intarsia in the round is used. The pattern is written for Magic Loop Method (i.e. for an even distribution of stitches between two sides of a circular needle) - but it can be done with dpns as well (e.g. by using stitch markers).
Just a quick heads up: If you've never knitted socks before, this is probably not the best pattern to start with, because the intarsia work can be quite fiddly.

As to the name, Seitenstreifen is the German word for a curb or emergency lane of a highway - literally it translates to side-strip.

A big thank you to nordling (Ravelry name) who test-knitted the pattern and - in the process - eliminated quite a few of my mistakes. Tack så mycket!

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• a total of about 60 to 80 grams of fingering weight yarn - 60 grams of the main color (MC) and 20 grams of the contrast color (CC).
• 2.25 mm or 2 mm circular needles to knit the ribbing - mine was 80 cm long
• 2.5 mm circular needles to knit the rest of the sock - mine was 80 cm long
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge

In stockinette stitch, 17 stitches and 20 rows gave 5 cm.

Techniques and Notation

• Intarsia in the round with yarn-overs before turning: as shown in this YouTube video by Julia farwell-clay. Basically you knit back and forth even though your stitches are arranged in the round - and you have to consider rounds in pairs - one RS row and one WS row. You start with your main color (MC) on the RS, then - as in normal intarsia you change (by twisting the yarns) - to contrast color (CC) and knit your CC part, After finishing this you turn your work, make a yarn-over and do the WS with CC, when you get to the MC part you change back as in normal (flat) intarsia to MC.
  Now with MC you work your way on the WS not only to the start of the round, but further to the point where you ended the CC part. Here you p2tog the last MC stitch with the yarn over in CC. Then you turn - again with a yarn over - and do the RS part to the beginning of the round. That's the two round finished.
  When - during the next pair of rounds - you reach the new yarn over on the RS, you have to do an ssk of the last stitch in CC with the yarn over in MC.
  In this pattern the following notation will be used: "MC [k7]; CC [k23]" means knit 7 sts in MC, change to CC and knit 23 sts in CC, i.e. the color is indicated before the knitting instructions - the instructions are in square brackets and a semicolon indicates a change of color.
• Shadow Wrap Short Rows: as shown in this YouTube video by Lee Meredith. A video by Miriam Felton that shows how to do a heel with shadow wraps can be found here on YouTube. However, the heel knitted here is knitted slightly different because here there are two rounds between the two parts of the heel, i.e. there won't be any triple stitches.
• Magic Loop Method: as shown in this YouTube video by KnitPicks.
• Kitchener Stitch: e.g. as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits 
• When the instructions differ for different sizes, the instructions for sizes 32 - 35 will be given first, then for sizes 36 - 39 as the first number in brackets and for sizes 40 - 43 as the second number in brackets

General Construction
The Socks are knitted from the cuff down, i.e. you start from the ribbing at the top and finish with the toes.
Even though it is a sock and knitted in the round, there is a change of direction after every row. That's because it is knitted in intarsia where one round is knitted from the outside of the sock and the next from the inside. This means that at one point in the round you change the color just as in normal (flat knitted) intarsia knit, i.e. where you twist your two strands of yarn (called color changing point or CCP in the pattern) and at another point you attach the colors while you're turning by knitting together the last stitch of the current round with a yarn-over you did in the round below (called turning point or TP in the pattern). The Color Change Point needs to be on the back of the sock.
The picture below shows how the stitches are distributed on the front and back needle. Here, the first number indicates the number of stitches for socks in sizes 32 - 35, the first number in brackets for sizes 36 - 39 and the second number in brackets for sizes 40 - 43. It also shows two other significant points of your rounds, i.e. the two half points, where you switch from one side of the needle to the next - called half_CC on the CC side and half_MC on the MC side.

Stitch Distribution and Abbreviations

The color changing point never moves, i.e. every stitch is knitted in the same color as the stitch in the row below.


Instructions

Left Sock

Ribbing

With 2.25mm needles CO 14 in CC and CO 42 (46, 50) in MC. To make the CO loose enough for socks, I usually CO with both needles. Your piece should look like in photo 1. Turn your work, do NOT JOIN in round, yet.
Set-up row: MC [* k2, p2 repeat from * until 2 sts left to CCP , k2]; CC [* p2, k2 repeat from * until 2 sts from end, p2] - now your piece should look like in photo 2.

Starting on the end with the CC stitches, divide your stitches into three parts as follows: 7-28-21 (7-30-23, 7-32-25)  (see photo 3). The first and third part will be the front of the sock, the second part the back. Join in round.

Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, * k2, p2 repeat from * until 2 sts left to CCP, k2], MC [ * p2, k2 repeat from * until 2 sts left to TP, p1, p2togtbl], turn work  - please note: with the p2togtbl you join the last stitch knitted with MC with the yo in CC you did at the beginning of the round.
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo,  * k2, p2 repeat from * until 2 sts left to CCP, k2], CC [ * p2, k2 repeat from * until 2 sts left to TP, p1, p2tog], turn work -  again, with the p2tog you join the last knitted stitch of your round - in CC - with the yarn over in MC you did at the beginning of the round
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 four more times.

Illustrations - Left Sock

Shaft

Change to 2.5mm needles
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn - just as for the ribbing, the ssk combines the last st of the current row, with the yo from the beginning of the row
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 14 more times (or until the shaft is as long as you want it to be).


Heel

When knitting a short row heel, I usually increase the back "half" by two or three stitches to get a heel that is slightly wider. That's what is done during the first 6 rounds of the heel and this means that all the increases are on the side that contains the back stitches.

Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to half_CC and change to other side of needles, mk1, k to CCP], MC [k up to half_MC, mk1 and afterwards change sides, k to 1 bef TP, ssk], turn
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP), CC [p to 1 bef TP, p2tog], turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.
There are now four more stitches on the back part of the sock than on the front.

Now the short-row heel (with shadow wraps) is knitted only with the stitches of the back part. And since the working yarn is currently on the front part, you need to knit to the beginning of the back part first.

First Part
Row 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to half_CC and change to other side of needles - now you can start with the short row heel (the complete round will be finished later (#)], CC [k to CCP]; MC [k to 1 bef half_MC. knit into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 2 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap st, p to CCP); CC [p to 1 bef half_CC, purl into the mother stitch (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 3 (outside): CC [slip shadow wrap, k to CCP]; MC [k to 1 bef last shadow wrap, knit into the mother stitch of the next st, turn]
Row 4 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap, p to CCP]; CC [p to 1 bef last shadow wrap, purl into the mother stitch of next st, turn]
Repeat rows 3 and 4 seven more times. Now all of your CC stitches have been shadow wrapped. The last bit will be knitted only in MC

Row 5 (outside): MC [slip shadow wrap, k to 1 bef last shadow wrap knit into the mother stitch of the next st, turn]
Row 6 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap, p to 1 bef last shadow wrap, purl into the mother stitch of next st, turn]
Repeat rows 5 and 6 once (twice, three times) more

Picking Up the Shadow Wraps
While you knit the next two rounds make sure to knit/purl all double stitches that result from shadow wraps as one stitch.
Round 1 (outside): MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn - just as for the ribbing, the ssk combines the last st of the current row, with the yo from the beginning of the row
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn - please note the last 7 sts (i.e. the stitch on the front part of the needles) are completing the round that was started with row 1 of the first part of the heel (#)

Second part
Row 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to half_CC and change to other side of needles - now you can start with the short row heel (the complete round will be finished later], CC [k to CCP]; MC [k12 (k13, k14) half_MC. knit into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 2 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap, p10, purl into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 3 (outside): MC [slip shadow wrap, k to last shadow wrap and knit it, knit into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 4 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap, p to last shadow wrap and purl it, purl into mother of next st turn]
Repeat rows 3 and 4 or until the last stitch on the inside row is the stitch next to CCP.

Row 5 (outside): MC [slip shadow wrap, k to last shadow wrap and knit it, knit into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 6 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap, p to last shadow wrap and purl it]; CC [purl into mother of next st turn]
Row 7 (outside): CC [slip shadow wrap]; MC [k to last shadow wrap and knit it, knit into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 8 (inside): MC [slip shadow wrap, p to CCP]; CC [purl to last shadow wrap and purl it, purl into mother of next st turn]
Row 9 (outside): CC [slip shadow wrap, k to CCP]; MC [k to last shadow wrap and knit it, knit into the mother stitch of the next st (i.e. do a shadow wrap), turn]
Row 10 (inside): MC [p to CCP]; CC [purl to last shadow wrap and purl it, purl into mother of next st turn]
Repeat rows 9 and 10 until the last shadow wrap is the stitch next to  half_MC (outside) and half_CC (inside).

Picking Up the Shadow Wraps
While knitting the next two rounds make sure to knit/purl all double stitches that result from shadow wraps as one stitch.
Round 1 (outside): CC [k to CCP]; MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn - just as for the ribbing, the ssk combines the last st of the current row, with the yo from the beginning of the row
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn - please note the last 7 sts are completing the round that was started with row 1 of the second part of the heel

Now the increases that were made when beginning to knit the heel need to be decreased again.
Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to half_CC and change to other side of needles, ssk, k to CCP], MC [k up to 2 sts bef half_MC, k2tog and afterwards change sides, k to 1 bef TP, ssk], turn
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to 1 bef TP, p2tog], turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.
Now you're back to the original stitch number.

Foot

Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn - just as for the ribbing, the ssk combines the last st of the current row, with the yo from the beginning of the row
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until the foot (measured from the tip of the heel) measures 5 cm less than the desired length.

Toes

The picture below shows in which row the decreases are made on which side of the sock. For the first sock, it shows the front view - the back view is its mirror image. (For the second sock, it shows the back view).
That means that you knit the standard rounds (as in the foot part) with decreases around half_CC and half_MC when indicated.

Toe Decreases

Here are these 19 rounds spelled out - to mark the difference of normal rounds, the toe decreases are printed in boldface.

Round 1 (outside): CC [yo, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn
Round 2 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to 2 sts before half_CC, p2tog, p2togtbl, p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn
Round 3 (outside): CC [yo, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn
Round 4 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to 2 sts before half_CC, p2tog, p2togtbl, p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn

Round 5 (outside): CC [yo, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn
Round 6 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to 2 sts before half_CC, p2tog, p2togtbl, p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn

Round 7 (outside): CC [yo, k to 2 sts before half_CC, ssk, k2tog, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn
Round 8 (inside): MC [yo, p to 2 sts before half_MC, p2tog, p2togtbl, p to CCP], CC [p to 2 sts before half_CC, p2tog, p2togtbl, p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn
Round 9 (outside): CC [yo, k to 2 sts before half_CC, ssk, k2tog, k to CCP], MC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn
Round 10 (inside): MC [yo, p to CCP], CC [p to 2 sts before half_CC, p2tog, p2togtbl], turn
Round 11 (outside): CC/MC [k2tog]; MC [k to 1 bef CCP], MC/CC [ssk], turn

Now all CC sts have been decreased. The last rounds are MC only, this means all following rounds are all knitted from the outside and in MC - the points where you switch from one part of the needle to the other will be called half and end.

Round 12: k2tog, k to 2 bef half, ssk, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 13: k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 14: k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 15: k2tog, k to 2 bef half, ssk, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 16: k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 17: k2tog, k to 2 bef half, ssk, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 18: k2tog, k to 2 bef half, ssk, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 19: k2tog, k to 2 bef half, ssk, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk

Now you have 8 (10, 12) sts on each needle.
Cut yarn and graft toes in kitchener stitch.

Weave in ends and block.

Right Sock
The right sock is a mirror image of the left one. Here's what you should do differently:

• CO in opposite sequence, i.e. CO 40 (46, 50) in MC and then CO 14 in CC.
• Basically, for the whole of the right sock, the colors are reversed, i.e. everytime the pattern for the left sock says MC it's CC for the right sock and vice versa.
• When knitting the heel, the last CC shadow wrap of the 1st part of the heel will appear on an outside row (as opposed to an inside row for the left socks), this means also that the first shadow wrap of the 2nd part of the heel will appear on an outside row.
• When knitting the toe a similar effect occurs: I.e. the first two rows of the toe read as follows:
  Round 1 (outside): MC [yo, k to CCP], CC [k to last st before TP, ssk], turn
  Round 2 (inside): CC [yo, p to CCP], MC [p to 2 sts before half_CC, p2tog, p2togtbl, p to last st before TP, p2tog], turn
  and Rows 10 and 11 (the last rows with CC) read as follows:
  Round 10 (inside): CC [yo, p2tog, p2togtbl], MC [p to 1 bef TP, p2tog], turn
  Round 11 (outside): MC [yo, k to 1 bef CCP], MC/CC [ssk], CC [k2tog (last st in CC together with yo], turn
  The schematic "Toe Decreases" shows the back view of the 2nd sock - the front part is its mirror image.

This blogpost was featured at Sum of their Stories' Handmade Monday Link Party No. 59. Thank you!

Sum of their Stories