Corinne Cardigan

Quite proud that I finished my Corinne cardigan - pattern from knitty.com. I love that I found buttons that match perfectly.

Another Short Row Interpretation

I've always wanted to knit the beautiful Summit shawl by Mandy Harrington. I've tried it a few years ago when I rediscovered knitting, but at that time my attempts looked rather sad and were soon frogged. But I still kept the pattern in my queue, because I'm still planning to knit it one time.

Curiously enough, I never thought of it as a short row pattern - even though I do like short rows very much. That changed when I saw a wonderful picture on Pinterest to the machine knitting blog alessandrina.com. In her post "Wisteria 2" she explains a similar pattern (for machine knitting) in terms of short rows.

That got me thinking - especially since I was looking for ideas how to use the sock yarn that I bought last week ... and eventually I started a crescent scarf with short row "holes" (i.e. non-wrapped short rows).

As always, I'm not sure whether it the effect (shape, topology and yarn) will work, but I'll continue for a bit.

Starburst Mitts

Knitted flat these mitts use short
rows to form a circle around the thumb.
When I first knitted the Circle Mitts, I thought that it might be a good idea to knit something similar but at right angles to them – while the Circle Mitts are knitted around the circumference, the mitts described here are knitted along the radius.




This work by Kntting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





The finished mitts measure about 16 cm in circumference (around the wrists) and 18 cm high. (Gauge in garter stitch: 6 stitches and 14 rows/7ridges = 1 inch)

A crochet version of these mitts is available here: Sparkler Mitts.

A video tutorial in Japanese has been provided by Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと) on YouTube. You can find it here (part 1).and here (part 2).

Materials:

• 35 grams of fingering weight yarn (I used Froehlich Wolle Blauband Special, Color 7481 (dunkelgrau/dark grey))
• 3mm knitting needles
• 4 stitch marker (2 of which safety pins of similar)
• tapestry needle (for grafting and to weave in ends)

Techniques:

• Short Rows: Short rows are one of my favorite knitting techniques because they not only allow you to shape your knitting but also to created interesting graphical pattern. There are several techniques for short rows – and it’s a matter of taste which one you prefer. I’ve recently learned a technique called German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
• Provisional Cast-On: This method of cast-on usually uses some waste yarn that can be remove later to get live stitches, these stitches can either be used to continue knitting in the opposite direction or to graft these stitches to the rest of your piece. My favourite method is the one using a crochet hook (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeExgbgTOgs). The first time you use your working yarn, will be called row 0 in this pattern.
  There are other methods as well. E.g. the one explained in knitty (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html). If you use this method, you don’t need to knit the row number 0, because you already have your first row of stitches in working yarn.
• Grafting: Grafting (also called kitchener stitch) is a great way to finish garments without a visible seam (If you want to know more about grafting – it’s different stitches and mechanics – you should read the “5 Grafting Myths”-series by Joni Coniglio on knittingdaily.com).
  To finish these mitts you need to be able to graft both in stockinette and in garter stitch.
• Grafting in stockinette (and here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/grafting-garter-kitchener-stitch):
  Set-up stitch:
  - front needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
  - back needle: insert knitwise and leave stitch on needle;
  Then repeat the following actions:
  - front needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
  - back needle: insert purlwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle knitwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
• Grafting in garter stitch (and here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique: www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/grafting-garter-kitchener-stitch):
  Set-up stitch:
  - front needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
  - back needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
  Then repeat the following actions:
  - front needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
  - back needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)


• Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, slip the last stitch and insert the right needle in a loop from the opposite side, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk); this will be called ssk+c (ssk and connect) in this pattern - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q
  Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row in section F and G and sew the two sides together afterwards.

General Construction:

The mitts are knitted flat in eight sections (from A to H).

The diagram shows how  shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there are in between the edge and M1, as well as how the stitch count changes.
It also shows the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting section F and G).
Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an decrease in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.


Instructions:
Provisional CO22 stitches
Row 0: k6 pm (-> this marker will be called M2), k4 pm (-> this marker will be called M1), k12

Section A
Ridge 1: sl1, k to end, turn; sl1 p5, k to end
Ridge 2: sl1, k10, t+p, k to end
Ridge 3: sl1, k5, t+p, k to end

Ridge 4: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 5: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 6: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 7: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 8: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 9: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 10: sl1, k9,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 11: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 12: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 13: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 14: sl1, k to M2, p to end, turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 15: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 16: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 17: sl1, k2,  t+p, k to end
Place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles ("marker A")

Section B

Ridge 18: sl1, k to end, turn; sl1 p5, k to end
Ridge 19: sl1, k2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 20: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 21: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 22: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 23: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 24: sl1, k13,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 25: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 26: sl1, k9,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 27: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 28: sl1, k5,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 29: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 30: sl1, k11,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 31: sl1, k to M2, p6, turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 32: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 33: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to end

Section C
Ridge 34: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1 p5, k to end
Ridge 35: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 36: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 37: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 38: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 39: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 40: sl1, k14,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 41: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 42: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 43: sl1, k13,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 44: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 45: sl1, k to M2, p6; turn; sl1, k to end
Ridge 46: sl1, k7, t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 47: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 48: sl1, k16,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 49: sl1, k5,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 50: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 51: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 52: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 53: sl1, k18,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 54: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 55: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1 p5, k to last 2 stitches, kfb, k
Ridge 56: sl1, k3,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 57: sl1, k4,  t+p, k to end
Place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles (marker C)

Section D
Ridge 58: sl1, k to M2, p6, turn; sl1 k to end
Ridge 59: sl1, k2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 60: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 61: sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 62: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 63: sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 64: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 65: sl1, k13, t+p, k to end
Ridge 66: sl1, k9, t+p, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k
Ridge 67: sl1, k19,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 68: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 69: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 70: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 71: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 72: sl1, k11,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 73: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 74: sl1, k16,  t+p, k to end
Ridge 75: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to end
The photo shows how the mitt should look after finishing section D.

Section E (= Section D backwards)
Ridge 76: sl1, k to M2, p6; turn, sl1 k to end
Ridge 77: sl1, k16, t+p, k to end
Ridge 78: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 79: sl1, k11, t+p, k to end
Ridge 80: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 81: sl1, k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 82: sl1, k12, t+p, k to end
Ridge 83: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 84: sl1, k19, t+p, k to end
Ridge 85: sl1, k9, t+p, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k
Ridge 86: sl1, k13, t+p, k to end
Ridge 87: sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 88: sl1, k to M2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 89: sl1, k15, t+p, k to end
Ridge 90: sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 91: sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 92: sl1, k2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 93: sl1, k to end, turn; sl1, p5, k to end

Section F (= Section C backwards)
During section F, you will attach the last stitch of each ridge with an edge stitch of section C (and during section G with and edge stitch of section B). For this you need to fold the mitt along the folding line and attach the sides as you go along - as explained above in "Techniques".
The picture on the right shows how the mitt looks after you have knitted a few rows of section F when you connect the halves as you go.

Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row of section F and G; and sew the two edges together afterwards.

Ridge 94: sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 95: sl1, k3, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of ridge 56, i.e. one below stitch marker C) - the abbreviation ssk+c is explained above in "Techniques"
Ridge 96: sl1, k to M2, p to end; turn; sl1, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of ridge 55)
Ridge 97: sl1 k8, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of ridge 54
Ridge 98: sl1, k18, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 99: sl, k7, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 100: sl1, k10, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 101: sl1,  k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 102: sl1, k5,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 103: sl1, k16, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 104: sl1, k12, t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 105: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 106: sl1, k to M2 , t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 107: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 108: sl1, k13,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 109: sl1, k6,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 110: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 111: sl1, k14,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 112: sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 113: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 114: sl1, k8,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 115: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 116: sl1, k12,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)
Ridge 117: sl1, k to M2, p6; turn; k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section C)

Section G (= Section B backwards)
Ridge 118: sl1, k15,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 119: sl1, k10,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 120: sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 121:  sl1, k11,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 122:  sl1, k8,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 123:  sl1, k5,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 124:  sl1, k to 2 sts before M2,  t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 125:  sl1, k9,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 126:  sl1, k8,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 127:  sl1, k13,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 128:  sl1, k7,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 129:  sl1, k to M2,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 130:  sl1, k4,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 131:  sl1, k6,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 132:  sl1, k2,  t+p, k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
Ridge 133:  sl1, k to M2, p6; turn; sl1 k to last stitch, ssk+c (with edge stitch of next ridge of section B)
(Now the side seam is finished.)

Section H (= Section A backwards)
Ridge 134:  sl1, k2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 135:  sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 136:  sl1, k6, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, k
Ridge 137:  sl1, k to end; turn; sl1, p5, k to end
Ridge 138:  sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 139:  sl1, k4, t+p, k to end
Ridge 140:  sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 141:  sl1, k9, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, k
Ridge 142:  sl1, k to 2 sts before M2, t+p, k to end
Ridge 143:  sl1, k6, t+p, k to end
Ridge 144:  sl1, k12, t+p, k to end
Ridge 145:  sl1, k7, t+p, k to end
Ridge 146:  sl1, k to M2, t+p, k to last 3 stitches, ssk, k
Ridge 147:  sl1, k8, t+p, k to end
Ridge 148:  sl1, k5, t+p, k to end
Ridge 149:  sl1, k10, t+p, k to end

Finishing

Cut yarn but leave a tail of about 50 cm. Take out your scrap yarn of the provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a knitting needle. Graft in garter stitch till M2, then finish grafting in stockinette stitch. Make sure to treat the double-stitch as one stitch.
If you haven't connected the edges during sections F and G, sew sides together.
Weave in ends.

Make two.

This pattern is listed at favecrafts.com. 

This post was featured on EyeLoveKnots Yarn Fanatic Party #27

Seifenblasen Lace Scarf

Knitted from side to side, this scarf forms a lovely crescent using garter stitch short row sections between lacy bits. To me the lace pattern looks like foam or a lot of bubbles - hence the name of this scarf. "Seifenblasen" is the German word for soap bubbles.

The finished scarf is about 2 meters long (measured on the shorter side).




This work by Knitting and so son is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



A danish translation of this pattern was written by Marianne Holmen of strikkeglad.dk - details can be found in this blogpost.

Materials

• 3.5 mm needles (straight or circular)
• 110 grams of fingering weight yarn
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Double yarn over (yo yo): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRwWNIPGNQU - if the next row is a knitting row (without any lace pattern), you knit a double yarn over as follows: knit into the first yo and purl into the second yo (as shown in the video).
• German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
  (Up until recently, my preferred way of short rows was knitting wrap and turns - you can of course do that as well at the same place as the t+p ... I just wanted to learn a new technique :)

Lace Pattern
The lace pattern used here is very easy to remember - it's made for a stitch count divisible by 4 plus 2 edge stitches.

Row 1 (RS): sl1 (purlwise), *k2tog yo yo k2tog repeat from * until the last stitch, k1
Row 2 (WS): sl1 (purlwise), *yo k2tog k2tog yo repeat from * until the last stitch, k1

After the first row of a lace section, a k2tog is always made from a yo and a k2tog from the row below (see photo on right hand side, where I'm knitting together a k2tog and the first of two yarn overs.

Each lace section consist of 10 rows of lace pattern, all odd rows knitted like row 1 and all even rows knitted like row 2.

Short Row Sections
All short row sections consist of 10 rows in garter stitch, i.e. 5 garter stitch ridges. The first and the last ridge are knitted over the complete row (i.e. no short rows). Only the ridges inbetween are turned earlier, i.e. are short rows as such. Since the piece varies in width, the places where to stop and turn vary also.

Increasing Short Row Sections
With each short row section in the increasing part the stitch count is increased by 4. Since the turning points should be evenly distributed along the width of the piece, the distance between the turns must increase as well.

During the first section, the distance between the turns from row to next row is 2; during the section short row section it's 3, during the third short row sections it's 4, i.e. during the Xth short row section the distance between the turning points is X+1.

That means in general the increasing short row sections are knitted as follows:
Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to last stitch, kfb
Row 3 (RS): k to X+1 sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 5 (RS): k to (X+1)*2 sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 7 (RS): k to (X+1)*3 sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end
Because of the 4 kfb's the stitch count has increased by 4.

So the trick of knowing when to turn is keeping track how many short row sections you've knit before, and adding 1.

For the 1st short row section the stitches at which to turn would be 2 before end (in row 3), 4 before end (in row 5) and 6 before end (in row 7), for the 2nd short section the turns would be 3 before end (row 3), 6 before end (row 5) and 9 before end, in the 3rd short row section  the numbers would be 4 sts, 8 sts and 12 sts before end respectively, for the 4th section 5 sts, 10 sts and 15 sts. And so on ...

Short Row Section Neutral
Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 17 sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 34  sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to end
Row 7 (RS): k to 51  sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to end
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end

Short Row Sections Decreasing
The same calculations have to be made backwards when decreasing by 4 stitches. You start with the stitch distance that was used in the last increasing short row section and work your way down. So if Y is the number of increasing short row sections, you knitted during the first half of the scarf , X is Y minus the number of decreasing sections you just knitted. (E.g. you knitted 16 increasing short row sections in the first half, and have now knitted 5 decreasing short row sections, X = 16 - 5 = 11.)

That means in general the decreasing short row sections are knitted as follows:
Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 3 (RS): k to X+1 sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 5 (RS): k to (X+1)*2 sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 7 (RS): k to (X+1)*3 sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end
Because of the 4 k2tog's the stitch count has descreased by 4.

Here also are some examples to make it a bit clearer. Say, you knitted 16 increasing short row section, i.e. the distance between turns during that section was 17, i.e. in row 3 you knitted to 17 sts before the end and then turned, in row 5 to the 34th stitch before the end, and in row 7 to the 51th stitch before the end. The first decreasing short row section would then be knitted as follows:

Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 3 (RS): k to 17 sts  before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 5 (RS): k to 34 sts [17*2] before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 7 (RS): k to 51 sts [17*3] before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end
Because of the 4 k2tog's the stitch count has descreased by 4.

Pattern Instructions - Short Version
Basically the pattern consists in alternating lace sections (i.e. 10 rows of lace pattern) with a short row (garter stitch) sections.

• Cast on 10 and start with a lace section, the knit the first increasing short row section (with the distance of 2 stitches between the turning points), then you knit another lace section and the next short row section (this time with a distance of 3 stitches between the turning points). 
• Continue - increasing the stitch distances until you have knitted a total of 16 lace sections, then you knit a neutal short row section, i.e. a short rows section with the same stitch distance than the last one (i.e. 17) but without any increases or decreases.
• Then knit a lace section and the first decreasing short row section, i.e. with a stitch distance of 17, too. You continue with a lace section and a short row section with a distance of 16 stitches between the turning points, then another lace section and a short row section with a stitch distance of 15 and so on. Until you have knitted a short row section with a stitch distance of 2. You should now have 10 stitches on your needles. Finish with a lace section and bind off after the 10th row.
• Weave in ends and block.

Instructions - Longer Version

CO10

Knit a lace section (i.e. 10 rows of lace pattern)

Knit a the first short row section:
Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to last stitch, kfb
Row 3 (RS): k to 2 sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 5 (RS): k to 4 sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 7 (RS): k to 6 sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end

Alternate lace sections and short row sections until you have knitted 16 lace sections and 16 short row sections. The pattern below shows how to knit the short row sections for the 2nd (3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th) increasing lace section
Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to last stitch, kfb
Row 3 (RS): k to 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 5 (RS): k to 6 (8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 7 (RS): k to 9 (12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51) sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to last stitch, kfb
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end

Knit a lace section

Knit the neutral short row section

Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to end
Row 3 (RS): k to 17 sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to end
Row 5 (RS): k to 34  sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to end
Row 7 (RS): k to 51  sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to end
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end

Knit a lace section

Alternate decreasing short row section and lace sections a total of 16 times, where the decreasing short row sections are knitted as follows for the 1st (2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th) section.
Row 1 (RS): k to end (when you encounter a double yarn over, knit it as k1 p1)
Row 2 (WS): k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 3 (RS): k to 17 (16, 15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2) sts before end, t+p
Row 4 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 5 (RS): k to 34 (32, 30, 28, 26, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4) sts before end, t+p
Row 6 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 7 (RS): k to 51 (48, 45, 42, 39, 36, 33, 30, 27, 24, 21, 18, 15, 12, 9, 6) sts before end, t+p
Row 8 (WS):  k to last 2 stitches, k2tog
Row 9 (RS): k to end (be careful to knit the double stitches as one stitch)
Row 10 (WS): k to end

Your stitch count should be ten.

Knit a final lace section and bind off in knit stitch after the 10the row.

Weave in ends and block.

Circle Mitts - Deutsch

Liesl24 (Ravelry-Name) hat eine Übersetzung der "Circle Mitts" auf deutsch erstellt  (vielen, vielen Dank!). Es handelt sich um fingerlose Handschuhe, die am Daumen begonnen und in einem Stück gestrickt werden.



Die deutsche Anleitung gibt es in zwei PDF-Dateien:

• eine Datei mit der Anleitung für diese Handschuhe und 
• eine Datei mit vielen Fotos, die insbesondere die Techniken erläutert, die beim Stricken dieser Handschuhe verwendet werden, z.B. verkürzte Reihen mit „wrap and turn“, Abketten mit drei Nadeln („three-needle bind-off“)

Edit 03.10.2021: Update der Links auf die PDF-Dateien, da sich offenbar die Links auf GoogleDrive geändert hatten.

Wrong Season

I know that it's the wrong season for mitts - or even fingerless gloves - at least on my hemisphere. But I had this idea for quite a while and really, really wanted to try it: Gloves that are knitted perpendicular to the thumb and all in one piece - the shaping is done with short rows. 

As with all prototypes, there is room for improvement, especially regarding the fit around the palm, but that will be sorted out ... eventually.

Studies in Topology

There are a lot of patterns available to crochet a spiral - for example this at Engineered Crochet. As with many other patterns, I'm always interested in doing something similar in knitting ... so I'm quite proud that I finally managed it. The trick is to only knit one side of the square at a time and to knit three rows per side.

 

Now I only (!) need an idea how to best include it into a pattern :)