Random Brioche Scarf

I'd been planning to do a two-color-brioche project for quite a while now, but I couldn't decide on the stitch pattern that I wanted to use. So I started to play around with different brioche increases and decreases - and the sampler piece grew longer and longer. After a while, I started to embrace the idea of different brioche patterns in one scarf and continued knitting until the piece was 160 cm long - the perfect scarf length.

In the end, I knitted another (slightly wider) scarf in this random manner - and I am currently knitting a third one. Actually, knitting in this manner - just seeing where the increases and decreases take you - is quite fun, and it's great travel knitting, too :)

So, if you want to have a completely special - and certainly unique - scarf, why not knit yourself a random brioche scarf, too.

This tutorial explains how to knit a scarf in the random brioche. Please note that this is not a knitting pattern in the classic sense with detailed stitch by stitch and row by row sequences, but a set of instructions and tips that allow you to knit a scarf and achieve a similar result and perhaps an invitation (inspiration) to try out how different brioche increases and decreases work.

In contrast to random lace technique that I tried out several years ago, with random brioche it's actually easy to see your progress. 

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.






Materials

• yarn in two colors of the same weight: 
• For the red and beige one, I used a total of 80 grams of lace weight merino yarn (Wollmeise Lace and Lana Grossa Cool Wool Fine).
• For the violet and grey one, I used a total 130 grams of (really old, and I don't know the yarn weight) acryllic yarn.
• knitting needles that the yarn calls for - with two tips (so either dpns or circulars) - for the lace weight merino I used 3mm needles
• a clippy stitch marker (for the 4 stitch decreases)
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques, Brioche Stitches and Abbreviations

If you search YouTube for brioche increases and decreases, you will find many videos and ressources. Here are links to some of them:

• The Basics of Two-Color Brioche are shown in this YouTube video by Voolenvine
• Increases in Brioche Knitting:
• brkyobrk: a two stitch increase - as shown in this YouTube video by The Unapologetic Knitter 
• brk4st inc: a four stitch increase - as shown in this YouTube video by The Blue Mouse Knits
• Decreases in Brioche Knitting 
• brk2st dec: decrease by two stitches (like k2tog and like ssk) - as shown in this YouTube video by Knitting with Suzanne Bryan - there is a right-leaning and a left-leaning decrease
• brk4st dec: a four stitch decrease - as shown in this YouTube video by the Unapologetic Knitter
• DC: dark color
• LC: light color
• DS: side where the DC is prominent
• LS: side where the LC is prominent
• I used a Two Color Long-Tail Cast-On - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat, but any other CO will do. I'd suggest casting on in DC.
• Weaving in ends on Brioche: as shown in this YouTube video by New Stitch a Day

Basic Two-Color Brioche
Here are the basic knitting instructions for two-color brioche (without any increases or decreases) with an uneven stitch number:

Row 1a (WS, DC): k1, yos, * brk, yos repeat from * to last st, p1
Row 1b (WS, LC): sl1wyib, brp, * yos, brp repeat from * to last st, sl1wyib
Row 2a (RS, DC): k1, yos, * brp, yos repeat from * to last st, p1
Row 2b (RS, LC): sl1wyib, brk, * yos, brk repeat from * to last st, sl1wyib
Repeat.

Rows like this will be referred to as "basic two-color brioche" below.


How to Do the Edges
As you can see in the basic instructions above, I started and ended every row with a stitch in DC and the edge stitches were handled as follows:

• With DC yarn always knit the first stitch of a row – making sure to put it under the LC yarn in order to attach it – and purl the last stitch of a row
• With LC yarn always slip the first stitch with yarn in back (sl1wyib) and slip the last stitch with yarn in front (sl1wyif)

Instructions

To get you started, I will give you instructions as to a (possible) start and finish - and the general "rules" I used when knitting the scarf.

In general:

• Start with 5 stitches and increase gradually. I had a maximum of  41 stitches on my needles, since I wanted a) a slim scarf and b) be able to keep a clear view of where to put my increases and decreases (i.e. symmetrically to the middle stitch).
• I didn't care whether the stitch count stayed the same, so my scarfs don't have straight edges but curvy ones - as you can see in the pictures. That means, I could do increases and decreases as I liked.
• Make sure to keep your pattern symmetrical to the middle stitch to give a certain order to the randomness, i.e. 
• if you do a two stitch increase (brkyobrk) 4 stitches before the middle stitch, do a two stitch increase 4 stitches after the middle stitch as well,
• and if you do a left-leaning decrease 6 stitches before the middle stitch, do a right-leaning decrease 6 sts after the middle stitch
• Looking at the LC of your piece you have several choices to increase. I mainly used the two shown in the picture below:
   
  
• A) "branching out" of a column of LC brk-stitches: you need to increase with LC, e.g. with a brkyobrk while working on LS; in the next row (DS) you do "yos, k1, yos" at this place with DC, and "brp, yos, brp" with LC. This is an increase by 2 stitches.
• B) from a column of DC brp-stitches: then you need to increase with DC, e.g. with a brkyobrk while working on DS, when you knit the same row in LC, you do a "yos, p1, yos" at this point. In the next row, I knitted "normal" 2-color brioche in DC (brp, yos, brp) and another increase in LC (yos, brkyobrk, yos). This is an increase by 4 stitches.
• For decreases, I mainly used decreases while knitting with LC on the LS.
• End by gradually decreasing the overall number of stitches back to 5 and then bind off in DC.

Start

If you want to start small (as I did in the grey and violet scarf) - here are the first rows

CO5

Row 1a (LS, DC): k1, yos, p1, yos, p1

Row 1b (LS, LC): sl1wyib, brk, yos, brk, sl1wyif

Row 2a (DS, DC): k1, yos, brkyobrk, yos, p1

Row 2b (DS, LC): sl1wyib, brp, yos, p1, yos, brp, sl1wyif

Row 3a (LS, DC): k1, yos, brp, yos, brp, yos, p1
Row 3b (LS, LC): sl1wyib, brk, yos, brk4st inc, yos, brk, sl1wyif
Row 4a (DS, DC): k1, yos, brk, yos, k1, yos, k1, yos, brk, yos, p1
Rows 4b - 7a: basic 2-color brioche
Row 7b (LS, LC): sl1wyib, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk4st inc, yos, brk, yos, brk, sl1wyif
Row 8a (DS, DC): k1, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, k1, yos, k1, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, p1

Rows 8b - 11a: basic 2-color brioche
Row 11b (LS, LC):  sl1wyib, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk4st inc, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk,, sl1wyif
Row 12a (DS, DC): k1, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, k1, yos, k1, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, p1
Rows 12b - 17a: basic 2-color brioche
Row 17b (LS, LC): sl1wyib, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk4st dec, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brk,, sl1wyif
Rows 18a - 21a: basic 2-color brioche
Row 21b (LS, LC): sl1wyib, brk,  yos, brk, yos, brk4st dec, yos, brk, yos, brk, sl1wyif
Row 22a (DS, DC): k1, yos, brkyobrk, yos, brk, yos, brk, yos, brkyobrk, yos, p1
Row 22b (DS, LC): sl1wyib, brp, yos, p1, yos, brp, yos, brp, yos, brp, yos, p1, yos, brp. sl1wyif
...



End
Assuming that there are 15 stitches left.

Row 1a (LS, DC): basic 2-color brioche
Row 1b (LS, LC): sl1wyib, brk,  yos, brk, yos, brk4st dec, yos, brk, yos, brk, sl1wyif
Rows 2a - 5a: basic 2-color brioche
Row 5b (LS. LC): sl1wyib, brk, yos, brk4st dec, yos, brk, sl1wyif
Row 6a (DS, DC): k1, yos, brk2st dec, yos, p1
Row 6b: basic 2-color brioche
Bind off with DC.

A random brioche scarf with no fixed dark and light side

Slaskehuet i Ret

Marianne Holmen from strikkeglad.dk has written a Danish translation of the Knit-Only Slouch Hat. Mange Tak!

The Danish translation can be found here.
The original (english) version of this pattern is available here.

A list of all translated versions of my patterns can be found in this blogpost.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Strawberry Socks

After finishing two lovely brioche scarfs (photo on Instagram, tutorial to follow soon), I was a bit out of inspiration and decided to knit a plain pair of socks with some self striping yarn I had bought some time before (Regia Cotton Tutti Frutti, colorway Strawberry, link to the yarn's Ravelry page).

For self striping yarn I prefer patterns that are visible in spite of the yarn, i.e. the detail of most lace patterns is lost in self striping yarn. So usually I like a pattern that's either interestingly constructed so that the color changes provide interesting shapes (e.g. my Tipsy Toe Socks or the Skew Socks by Lana Holden) or a pattern that disrupts the stripes (a bit), e.g. by knitting into a stitch below or with slip stitches. Since I hadn't done much with slip stitches before, I decided on them. And - as usual - the first try didn't look the way I wanted :)

In the end I used the slip stitches as provided by the Slip Stitch Lines pattern on Ravelry. But I only used the stitch pattern together with my preferred sock construction:

• I knitted the socks toe-up - the way I usually do (see for example this pattern) 
• I decided to knit only three vertical lines of slip stitches and placed them on the outer side of the sock - with a distance of three stitches inbetween
• I did an afterthought heel (as I did with these socks)

Narrenkappe - Fool's Cap

Soon carnival starts again - especially for everyone living in Cologne and around. So it's best to be prepared :) During carnival, it can be quite cold, but nonetheless you are usually out of doors. That's why I wanted to knit something warm to wear on my head with a carnival theme. So this is the perfect hat for carnival.

A German version of this pattern is available, too.
Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.



This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• a total of about 40 grams of yarn in two colors - since it's supposed to be a carnival hat, I used quite cheap acrylic yarn (Supersoft by Zeeman - it's listed as fingering weight on Ravelry, but it felt heavier)
• circular knitting needles that are suitable for the yarn - I used 4mm needles 
• 2 stitch markers
• a third needle (of roughly the same size) - for three needle BO 
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends
• a fork to make the pompom for the tip 

Size and Gauge 
The hat I knitted measures about 22 cm in height. The circumference at the ribbing measures about 46 cm (unstretched), but it stretches easily to fit around my head (with 54 cm circumerference). The upper edge measures about 32 cm.
30 rows in stockinette gave 10 cm in height and 21 stitches 10 cm in width.
The pattern is written in a way that can easily adapted to other sizes.


Techniques and Abbreviations 

• Judy's Magic Cast-On is a technique that gives you live stitches on both sides of your needle - it is generally used for toe-up socks (e.g. in this pattern), but it can be used for other purposes as well. Here's a written description (from Knitty) and here's a YouTube-video by Cat Bordhi and another YouTube-video by Very Pink Knits.
• Grafting in stockinette stitch (also called Kitchener Stitch): a way to seamlessly join two rows of live stitches - as shown in this YouTube video by WEBS America's Yarn Store.
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Make small pompoms with a fork: https://youtu.be/sNXXKZ_HEAQ
• sm: slip marker
• turn: in the beginning the stitches are arranged as a U-shape on the needles. You're knitting back and forth and have to do a U-turn at a turning point. 

Construction
This hat is knitted in three parts. The first two parts are knitted flat (back and forth), the third part is knitted in rounds.
Part 1 is started with a magic CO and then is knitted in an inverted U-shape around the CO. The first and last 12 stitches are knitted in garter stitch to achieve a kind of ribbing - the rest of the stitches are knitted in stockinette, i.e. knit in RS and purl in WS. Directly above the ribbing and at the turn of the U there are increases (part 1). As soon as the hat is as high as you wish it to be, part 2 is stared and at the turn of the U decreases are made - however, at the ribbing there will still be increases. This creates a straight upper edge. Once the ribbing fits around your head, part 2 is ended with a three-needle bind off of the ribbing. The remaining stitches are knitted in the round (knit only), but with decreases at the upper and lower edges.
The picture below shows this construction.

Instructions

For better visibility all increases and decreases are in boldface.

Part 1
In color 1: do a magic CO of 2 x 14 sts
Turn the needles in a way that you see the purl bumps.

Row 1 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, place marker, p2, turn, p2, place marker, k11, sl1

Row 2 (color 2, RS): k12, sm, kfb, kfb, turn, kfb, kfb, k12
Row 3 (color 3, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 4 (color 1, RS): k12, sm k1, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 5 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 6 (color 2, RS): k12, sm, mk1r, p to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to m, mk1l. sm, k12
Row 7 (color 2, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to 1 bef turn, mk1p, p1, turn, p1, mk1p, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 8 (color 1, RS): k12, sm, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 9 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 10 (color 2, RS): k12, sm k1, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 11 (color 2, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Repeat rows 4 to 11 twice more.
Then start the following sequence.

Row 30 (color 1, RS): k12, sm k1, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 31 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to 1 bef turn, mk1p, p1, turn, p1, mk1p, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 32 (color 2, RS): k12, sm k1, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 33 (color 2, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 34 (color 1, RS): k12, sm k1, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 35 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to 1 bef turn, mk1p, p1, turn, p1, mk1p, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 36 (color 2, RS): k12, sm k1, mk1r, k to 1 bef turn, mk1l, k1, turn, k1, mk1r, k to marker, mk1l, sm, k12
Row 37 (color 2, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Repeat rows 30 to 37 three more times - or until the hat has reach the desired height.


Part 2

Row 1 (color 1, RS): k12, sm, mk1r, k to 3 bef turn, ssk, k1, turn, k1, k2tog, k to marker, mk1l, k12
Row 2 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to 3 bef turn, p2togtbl, p1, turn, p1, p2tog, p to marker, k11, sl1

Row 3 (color 2, RS): k12, sm, mk1r, k to 3 bef turn, ssk, k1, turn, k1, k2tog, k to marker, mk1l, k12
Row 4 (color 2, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Repeat rows 1 to 4 three more times.
From now on the decreases at the upper edge will only be knitted on RS.

Row 17 (color 1, RS): k12, sm, mk1r, k to 3 bef turn, ssk, k1, turn, k1, k2tog, k to marker, mk1l, k12
Row 18 (color 1, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Row 19 (color 2, RS): k12, sm, mk1r, k to 3 bef turn, ssk, k1, turn, k1, k2tog, k to marker, mk1l, k12
Row 20 (color 2, WS): sl1, k11, sm, p to next marker, sm, k11, sl1

Repeat rows 17 to 20 until the ripping fits around your head.


Part 3

Turn the hat to WS. Hold the tips of your needles together (RS together) so that the ribbing on both sides lies together. Now do a three needle BO of 12 sts - or to the markers. Use the color you use last - if you want to avoid cutting your yarn, weave in the yarn of the other color (alternatively, just cut the other yarn and attach it, when you next need it).

Remove one stitch marker and turn the piece back right sides out. The remaining stitch marker marks the beginning of a new round.
From now on you'll knit in rounds and you'll decrease every other row on the upper edge and on the side edge.
The first stitch on your needle should be the one that's left over from the three needle BO.

Round 1 (color 1): k1, k2tog, k to 3 bef turn, ssk, k1, turn, k1, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 2 (color 1): k all
Round 3 (color 2): k1, k2tog, k to 3 bef turn, ssk, k1, turn, k1, k2tog, k to 2 bef end, ssk
Round 4 (color 2): k all

Repeat rounds 1 to 4 until there are 6 sts of fewer left. Cut your yarn, thread it into a tapestry needle, feed it through the remaining stitches and draw closed. Weave in ends.

Make a small pompom from the same yarn and attach it to the front tip of the hat. Finished!

Narrenkappe für Karneval

Langsam aber sicher fängt im Rheinland wieder der Karneval an - am Wochenende war sogar schon die Prinzenproklamation in Köln. Und darauf muss man - wenn man hier wohnt - vorbereitet sein.
An Karneval ist es meistens recht kalt, aber man ist trotzdem viel auf der Straße. Daher wollte ich eine karnevalistische Kopfbedeckung, die auch warm hält - und habe mir eine gestreifte Narrenkappe gestrickt.

An english version of this pattern is available here.
Eine englische Version dieser Anleitung gibt es hier.



Dieses Werk von Knitting and so on ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung - Nicht-kommerziell - Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 4.0 International Lizenz.






Material

• insgesamt ca. 40 Gramm 4-fädiges Garn in zwei Farben - da es sich um eine Karnevalsmütze handelt, die wahrscheinlich viel mitmachen muss, habe ich preiswertes Acrylgarn verwendet (Supersoft von Zeeman - bei Ravelry ist es als 4-fädiges Garn (fingering) aufgeführt, es fühlt sich aber dicker als 4-fädiges Garn an, weshalb ich dickere Nadeln verwendet habe)
• 4mm Rundstricknadel (bzw. eine Rundstricknadel, die zum Garn passt)
• 2 Maschenmarkierer
• eine dritte Nadel (etwa gleich dick) - für das Abketten mit drei Nadeln
• eine Stopfnadel zum vernähen
• eine Gabel und eine Schere für den Pompom an der Spitze

Größe und Maschenprobe
Die von mir gestrickte Mütze ist ca. 22 cm hoch. Am Bündchen misst sie ca. 46 cm (ungedehnt), was aber gedehnt locker um einen Kopf passt, der über 54 cm Umfang hat. An der oberen Kante ist die Kappe ca. 32 cm breit.
30 Reihen glatt rechts entsprechen 10 cm (Höhe) und 21 Maschen glatt rechts entsprechen 10 cm (Breite).
Die Anleitung ist allerdings so abgefasst, dass man sie leicht auf eine andere Größe anpassen kann.


Techniken und Abkürzungen

• Magischer Maschenanschlag: siehe die erste Technik in diesem YouTube Video von Sylvie Rasch - CraSy creative things. Anschließend werden die Reihen U-förmig um diesen Maschenanschlag gestrickt. 
• Maschenstich: siehe dieses YouTube Video von Sylvie Rasch - CraSy creative things
• Abketten mit drei Nadeln: siehe dieses YouTube Video von Sylvie Rasch - CraSy creative things
• Kleine Pompoms selber machen: https://youtu.be/I7NHCCl8MGc
• kfb: eine Masche verdoppeln, indem man vorne und hinten abstrickt (siehe dieses YouTube Video von nadelspiel * Stricken & Häkeln mit eliZZZa)
• Maschen aus dem Querfaden zunehmen - rechts und links verschränkt (1 M. re. verschr. zu. und 1. M. li. verschr. zun.): siehe dieses YouTube Video von Kathleen Engler.
• 2 M re. zus.: zwei Maschen rechts zusammen stricken
• ssk: zwei Maschen nach links geneigt zusammenstricken (siehe dieses Video von Drops)
• 2 M li. zus.: zwei Maschen links zusammen stricken
• 2 M li. verschr. zus.: zwei Maschen links verschränkt zusammen stricken
• 1 M. abh.: eine Masche wie zum linksstricken abheben
• MM: Maschenmarkierer auf die rechte Nadel heben
• drehen: Maschen liegen U-förmig auf dem Seil der Rundstricknadel. Es wird hin und zurück um das "U" gestrickt, d.h. in der Mitte der Reihe wird eine 180°-Drehung durchgeführt.

Konstruktion
Die Kappe wird in drei Teilen gestrickt - die ersten zwei Teile werden flach gestrickt, der dritte Teil in Runden. Man startet mit einem beidseitigem oder magischem Maschenanschlag (ähnlich wie bei Socken, die man am Zeh beginnt) und strickt anschließend flach (hin und her) in einer umgekehrten U-Form um den Anschlag herum. Davon sind jeweils die ersten und letzten 12 Maschen kraus rechts gestrickt, was das Bündchen ergibt. Die restlichen Maschen werden glatt rechts gestrickt - also eine Reihe rechts und eine Reihe links. Direkt über dem Bündchen und am Scheitelpunkt des Us wird zugenommen (Teil 1). Sobald die Mütze die gewünscht Höhe hat, wird am Scheitelpunkt nicht mehr zu-, sondern abgenommen; direkt am Bündchen wird jedoch weiterhin zugenommen. So entsteht oben eine gerade Kante (Teil 2). Wenn das Bündchen weit genug ist, dass es um den Kopf passt, werden die Maschen des Bündchens mit drei Nadeln abgekettet und Teil 3 beginnt. Die restlichen Maschen werden rund weitergestrickt - mit Abnahmen jeweils am oberen und am unteren Ende.
Das Bild unten zeigt diese Konstruktion schematisch.

Anleitung

Hinweis: Zu- und Abnahmen sind zur besseren Erkennung in Fettdruck angezeigt.

Teil 1
In Farbe 1: Schlage 2 mal 14 Maschen mit dem Magischen Anschlag an.
Auf der Vorderseite siehst du glatt gestricktes - auf der Rückseite eine erste krause Rippe. Drehe die Nadeln so, dass die Rückseite nach vorne zeigt.

Reihe 1 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1. M. abh., 11 M. re., Maschenmarkierer einsetzen, 2 M. links; drehen; 2 M. links, Maschenmarkierer einsetzen; 11 M. re., 1 M. abh.

Reihe 2 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; kfb; kfb; drehen; kfb; kfb; 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 3 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer; MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 4 (Farbe 1, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 5 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer; MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 6 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 7 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt; 1 M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. li, drehen, 1 M li., 1 M. li verschr. zun.; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 8 (Farbe 1, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 9 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer; MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 10 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 11 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer; MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihen 4 bis 11 noch zweimal wiederholen.

Dann die folgende Sequenz starten.

Reihe 30 (Farbe 1, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 31 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt; 1 M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. li, drehen, 1 M li., 1 M. li verschr. zun.; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 32 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 33 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer; MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 34 (Farbe 1, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 35 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt; 1 M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. li, drehen, 1 M li., 1 M. li verschr. zun.; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 36 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu einer Masche vor dem Drehpunkt, 1. M. li. verschr. zun., 1 M. re.; drehen, 1 M. re.; 1 M. re verschr. zun., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 37 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer; MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihen 30 bis 37 noch dreimal wiederholen. Oder solange bis die Mütze die gewünschte Höhe hat.

Teil 2

Reihe 1 (Farbe 1, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu drei Maschen vor dem Drehpunkt, ssk; 1. re. M., drehen, 2 M. re zus., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 2 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis drei M. vor dem Drehpunkt, 2 M. li. verschr. zus.; 1 M. li., drehen, 1, M. li., 2 M. li. zus.; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 3 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu drei Maschen vor dem Drehpunkt, ssk, 1. M. re.; drehen, 2 M. re zus., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 4 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Die Reihen 1 bis 4 insgesamt viermal stricken.
Ab jetzt wird nur noch auf der Vorderseite an der Oberkante abgenommen.

Reihe 17 (Farbe 1, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu drei Maschen vor dem Drehpunkt, ssk, 1 M. re.; drehen, 2 M. re zus., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 18 (Farbe 1, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihe 19 (Farbe 2, Vorderseite): 12 M. re.; MM; 1 M. re. verschr. zun.; re. M. bis zu drei Maschen vor dem Drehpunkt, ssk, 1. M. re.; drehen, 2 M. re zus., re. M. bis Maschenmarkierer, 1 m. li. verschr. zun., MM 12 M. re. stricken
Reihe 20 (Farbe 2, Rückseite): 1 M. abh. 11 M. re.; MM; li. M. bis zum nächsten Maschenmarkierer, MM; 11 M. re. 1. M. abh.

Reihen 17 bis 20 solange wiederholen, bis das Bündchen (kraus rechts gestrickt) um den Kopf passt.

Teil 3

Die Mütze auf links wenden, die Nadelspitzen aneinander halten (Vorderseiten zusammen), so dass die beiden "kraus rechts"-Streifen aneinander liegen. Nun mit einer dritten Nadel die Maschen des "kraus rechts"-Bündchens zusammen abketten, also 2 mal 12 Maschen, bzw. bis zu den Maschenmarkeren - hierzu die Farbe der letzten gestrickten Reihe verwenden (also Farbe 2). Man kann die andere Farbe nach jeder Masche verkreuzen (also mitnehmen) oder alternativ dieses Garn abschneiden und wieder anfügen, wenn mit ihr gestrickt wird.

Einen Maschenmarkierer entfernen und das Strickstück wieder auf rechts wenden. Der zweite Maschenmarkierer markiert den Anfang der neuen Runde. Während der ersten Runde kann der zweite Maschenmarkierer an der Oberkante (am Drehpunkt) eingesetzt werden.
Ab jetzt wird in Runden gestrickt - und jeweils in jeder zweiten Runde sowohl an der Oberkante als auch an der Seite abgenommen. Die erste Masche auf der Nadel sollte diejenige sein, die vom Abketten mit drei Nadel übrig geblieben ist.

Runde 1 (Farbe 1): 1 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., re. M. bis drei vor Drehpunkt, ssk, 1. re. M., MM, 2 M. re. zus.; re. M. bis zwei vor Rundenende, ssk
Runde 2 (Farbe 2): alle M. re.
Runde 3 (Farbe 3): 1 re. M., 2 M. re. zus., re. M. bis drei vor Drehpunkt, ssk, 1. re. M., MM, 2 M. re. zus.; re. M. bis zwei vor Rundenende, ssk
Runde 4 (Farbe 2): alle M. re.

Runden 1 bis 4 solange wiederholen bis nur 6 oder weniger Maschen übrig sind. Garn abschneiden und den Faden auf eine Stopfnadel fädeln, durch die noch übrigen Maschen führen und zusammenziehen. Fäden innen vernähen.

Einen kleinen Pompom aus dem Garn herstellen und an der vorderen Spitze der Mütze befestigen.

Fertig!

Hanabi Potholder

Quite often my knitting ideas just do not work out the way they were planned - usually they are then frogged and started again in a slightly different manner - or abandoned completely :) But just once in a blue moon something - even though it did not go to plan - turns out to look just lovely.
And that's what happened with this piece. I had planned to knit a potholder with a star with 6 points ... or 8 points at most. But due to an error, I ended up with slimmer points than planned. Plus the points did not look as I had planned.
However, I continued knitting it and I grew to like it. So it was finished and here is the pattern for it. As with many of my small potholders it is started with a provisional cast-on, constructed with short rows and intarsia and finished by grafting in garter stitch.
The piece can be used as a potholder, washcloth or coaster.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 40 grams of Aran weight yarn in 2 colors - I used dark blue as color 1 (C1) and light yellow as color 2 (C2)
• 3mm kntting needles
• scrap yarn and a crochet hook for provisional cast on
• a tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Intarsia: Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy. That way you don't have to carry long strands on the WS. The picture below shows the RS and WS of the piece.
  Throughout the pattern, the following notation will be used: "C1 (k2); C2 (k3, w&t, k3); C1 (k2)" means "knit 2 sts with C1; change to C2 and knit 3 sts with C2, wrap and turn, knit another 3 sts with C2, then change back to C1 and knit 2 sts with it". I.e. color is indicated before the knitting instructions for that yarn. the knitting instructions for that yarn are given in brackets after the color and color changes are indicated by a semicolon.
• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w&t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Instructions

The piece is started with a provisional CO, knitted in 10 wedges of short rows to complete a circle and then finished by grafting.

With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 21 sts and knit row 0
Row 0 (WS): C2 (k7); C1 (k14)
Ridge 1 (RS/WS): C1 (k12); C2 (k6, w&t, k6); C1 (k12)
Ridge 2 (RS/WS): C1 (k10); C2 (k5, w&t, k5); C1 (k10)
Ridge 3 (RS/WS): C1 (k8); C2 (k4, w&t, k4); C1 (k8)
Ridge 4 (RS/WS): C1 (k6); C2 (k3, w&t, k3); C1 (k6)

Ridge 5 (RS/WS): C1 (k4); C2 (k2, w&t, k2); C1 (k4)

Ridge 6 (RS/WS): C1 (k3); C2 (w&t); C1 (k3)

Ridge 7 (RS/WS): C1 (k2); C2 (k16, w&t, k16); C1 (k2)

Ridge 8 = Ridge 6
Ridge 9 = Ridge 5
Ridge 10 = Ridge 4
Ridge 11 = Ridge 3

Ridge 12 = Ridge 2

Ridge 13 = Ridge 1

Ridge 14 (RS/WS): C1 (k14); C2 (k7, turn, k7); C1 (k14)

Repeat ridges 1 to 14 8 more times.
Then knit rigdes 1 to 13.
Cut yarns but leave tails long enough for grafting.

Graft 14 sts in C1 and 7 sts in C2.
Use the C2 tail to close the hole in the middle of the piece.
Weave in ends.


Chart

In addition to the written instructions above, here's also a chart that shows how one wedge is knitted.
The number written in blue is the number of stitches with skein a of C1, the number written in black is the number of stitches knitted with C2.

Chart - click to enlarge

Here with my current favorite Oat Cookies - here's a link to the recipe (in German)

Last Minute Christmas Tree

When my Dad was still alive. we used to have a real Christmas tree. Ever since he died, we didn't. So when I went shopping a couple of days before Xmas last year and saw a packet of really small discounted baubles, I thought that I might as well knit a small tree. It took me less than an afternoon and the project got me a bit into a Christmas mood.
This Christmas tree is knitted sideways and in garter stitch. It is constructed with short rows and finished using a three-needle BO. Afterwards it is decorated with surface crochet and by sewing on baubles.

The instructions below are the knitting pattern for the tree on the left - the one with the baubles. The one I knitted is about 17 cm high. For the smaller trees on the right you can find the free pattern here.



This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.





Materials

• green yarn - I used (really) old DK weight yarn
• golden yarn
• small christmas baubles - the ones I used have a diameter of about 1.5 cm
• knitting needles that are slightly smaller than what the yarn calls for, I used 3 mm dpns
• a third needle for the three needle BO 
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• a crochet hook for provisional CO and for the surface crochet
• a tapestry needle to sew on the baubles

Techniques & Notation

• Provisional Cast on (pCO): My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t): as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
• Surface Crochet: Using a crochet hook, you make slip stitches through your knitted fabric. Here's a video and here's a tutorial that both explain surface crochet.
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
  The picture below shows how the piece looks before the three-needle BO.

Instructions

Do a provisional CO of 42 sts

With green yarn:
Setup row: k all
Ridge 1: k all, turn, sl1, k all
Ridge 2: k30, w+t, k to end
Ridge 3: k 10, w+t, k to end
Ridge 4: k 39, w+t, k to end
Ridge 5: k 5, w+t, k to end
Ridge 6: k 20, w+t, k to end
Ridge 7: k 10, w+t, k to end
Ridge 8: k 35, w+t, k to end
Ridge 9: k 25, w+t, k to end
Ridge 10: k 8, w+t, k to end
Ridge 11: k 15, w+t, k to end
Ridge 12: k 3, w+t, k to end
Ridge 13: k 22, w+t, k to end

Repeat ridges 1 to 13 four times.

Now you have a piece that looks like a piece of pizza.

Put the stitches from the provisional CO on a knitting needle. Hold the piece rights sides together and do a three needle bind off. Bind off 15 stitches with green yarn, and 15 stitches with white yarn. Afterwards, turn the piece right sides out. Use a pen or something similar to get into the top.

With golden yarn and crochet hook:
Starting from the lower edge work your way up with surface crochet in a spiral - until you reach the top of the tree.

If the yarn you used was rather soft, you might want to stabilize the tree. You can do this by cutting out a piece of paper or soft cardboard in the shape of a 90° pizza slice (similar to the tree before the three needle BO) and insert it into the tree.
The yarn I used was stiff enough that there wasn't any need for stabilization.

As a further decoration I put a small star on the top.