Bat Mitts

These were designed and knitted for a friend of my Mum's who had seen her black fingerless gloves and asked whether she could have a pair of black ones herself.

As usual, I thought it would be boring to knit the same ones again and wanted to do something different. Furthermore I had long thought about doing something on the lines of the Circle Mitts but with a lacy pattern. However, it wasn't quite as easy as I had hoped. It took me about four attempts of knitting and frogging to get this right ... but I quite like the end result. I even knitted a second pair in a lighter color a) to keep to for myself and b) to be able to get better pictures, because black yarn is difficult to capture on photo :)

In the end the lace pattern reminded me of the fingers of bat's wings - hence the name.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials

• about 35 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm knitting needles (I used 80 cm circulars with the Magic Loop method)
• 8 stitch markers
• a third needle for three-needle BO
• tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• Three-Needle Bind-Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Short Rows in the Round (and t+ky) I learned short rows in the round with this helpful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCgycxLce94; however, I ended up doing the pick-ups differently.
  - "Wrapping" of the StitchesBasically, when you're on the RS, you do wrap the working yarn around the next stitch (from front to back) and then turn your work, i.e. the "normal" wrap and turn (w+t).
  When you are on the WS you slip the last stitch, turn your work with the yarn in front, wrap the yarn around the RIGHT needle and knit the slipped stitch. That creates a sort of double-stitch - one half of it has to be knitted together with the stitch in front when you're picking up the stitches. In the pattern, throughout the pattern I will call this stitch, t+ky (short for "turn and knit w/yarn-over").
  - Picking-upWhen encountering a w+t, I turned the wrapped stitch on the needle, picked up the wrap from the front and knitted the stitch and the wrap together through the back of the loop.
  When reaching the stitch BEFORE the “double-stitch”, I turned this stitch and knitted it together with the yo through the back of the loop. 
• Picking up stitches from a gap or ditch: After the three needle bind-off there is one left over stitch which tends to have a distance to the stitches next to it. To avoid holes, I usually pick up one stitch from the gap and decrease over the new stitch in the following row (see also this YouTube video where it is shown on the example of a thumb gusset). In my experience (or the way I knit :) it's even better to pick up two stitches and knit decreases over them in the following two rows.
• k1tbl: knit one through the back loop: https://youtu.be/vWuDsCsk9MI (YouTube video by crazyknittinglady)
• p1tbl: purl one through the back loop: https://youtu.be/gOHAqYFjvUM (YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter)
• mk1p: make one purl stitch; https://youtu.be/7WLQ9qXa88k (YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter - you can use one the first two method shown there)

Gauge and Measurements
In stockinette stitch 6 stitches gave 2cm in width and 7 rows gave 2cm in height. The finished mitts measures and 18cm in diameter a the widest point and about 18cm in length.

General Construction

These mitts are knitted in four parts. Part 1 - the thumb - is knitted in the round. Part 2 - the first part of the palm - is also knitted in the round, at its end there is a small ribbing knitted on top to make sure that the upper BO doesn't curl in. Part 3 is knitted flat and ends with a three-needle BO. Part 4 - the cuff - starts with a few short rows to even out the height differences. It is knitted in the round and ends with a few rounds of ribbing.
The second mitt will have different instructions to make it look mirror inverted to the first one.


Instructions

First Mitt

Part 1: Thumb
Knitted in the round
Loosely CO 16 sts and join in round - place marker at the end of round
Rounds 1-7: * k1tbl, p1, repeat from * to end
Round 8: * k1tbl, p1, mk1p, k1tbl, p1, repeat from * to end
Rounds 9-11: * k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1 repeat from * to end
Round 12: * k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1, mk1p, repeat from * to end
Round 13-14: *ktbl1, p2, repeat from * to end

Illustrations

Part 2
Knitted in the round
Round 1: * k1tbl, yo, k2, place marker, repeat from * to end
Round 2: * k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 3: * k1tbl, yo, k to m, sllip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 4: * k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Repeat rounds 3 and 4  five more times
Round 15: k1tbl, yo, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, yo, k to m, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 16: k1tbl, p1, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 17: k1tbl, yo, p1, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, yo, k to m, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 18: k1tbl, * k1 p1, repeat from * to marker, slip marker; + k1tbl, k to m, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 19: BO14 sts in pattern (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), k to marker, slip marker; and continue round like round 3 (i.e.  * k1tbl, yo, k to m, sllip marker, repeat from * to end) - your piece should now look similar to photo 1 of the illustrations.

Part 3
Knitted flat
Row 1 (WS): p2tog, p6, t+ky, k to end, turn;
    * p to 1 bef m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 2 (RS): k2tog, k6, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to m, slip marker, k1tbl, yo, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 3 (WS): p7, t+ky, k to end, turn:
    * p to 1 bef m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 4 (RS): k8, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to m, slip marker, k1tbl, yo, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 5 = Row 3
Row 6 = Row 4
Row 7 (WS): * p to 1 bef m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end

Fold piece in half, right sides together. Your piece should now look as in photo 2.
Do a three-needle BO of 31 stitches (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), secure the last stitch and turn the piece back right sides out. Your piece should now look similar to photo 3.

Part 4
Knitted in the round - with some short rows around the last stitch of the three-needle BO
Round 1:  pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap; * k to m, slip marker,  k1tbl, yo, repeat from * once more, k to end, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap
Round 2: k1, ktog, k2, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p2, t+ky;
     k4, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 3: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     k11, w+t;
     p13, t+ky;
     k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, yo, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 4: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
    p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
    k11, w+t;
    p13, t+ky;
    k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 5: k2tog, k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, yo, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 6: k to m, * slip marker, k1tbl, k to m, repeat once more from *, k to end

Knit 7 rounds of p1, k1tbl-ribbing
Bind off loosely in pattern.

Second Mitt
To make the mitts mirror-inverted there are two differences between the first and second mitt:

• placement of the increases: for the first mitt the k1tbl-yo occurs just after the stitch marker - for the second mitt a yo-k1bl occurs just before the stitch marker
• for the second mitt the bind-off at the end of part 2 starts 2 sts before the end of the last row (instead of just at the beginning of the last row); that way the bind off "covers" two yo's

Here's it spelled out:

Part 1: Thumb
Knitted in the round
Loosely CO 16 sts and join in round - place marker at the end of round
Rounds 1-7: * p1, k1tbl repeat from * to end
Round 8: * mk1p, p1, k1tbl repeat from * to end
Rounds 9-11: * p2, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl  repeat from * to end
Round 12: * p2, k1tbl, mk1p, p1, k1tbl repeat from * to end
Round 13-14: *p2, ktbl1 repeat from * to end

Part 2
Knitted in the round
Round 1: * k2, yo, k1tbl, place marker, repeat from * to end
Round 2: * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 3: * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Round 4: * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end
Repeat rounds 3 and 4  five more times
Round 15: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, yo k1tbl. slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker,k1tbl, repeat from + to end
Round 16: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from + to end
Round 17: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, yo k1tbl. slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker,k1tbl, repeat from + to end
Round 18: * k1 p1 repeat from * to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker; + k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from + to 2 sts before end, BO2
Round 19: BO12 sts in pattern (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), k to marker, slip marker; and continue round like round 3 (i.e.* k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat from * to end)

Part 3
Knitted flat
Row 1 (WS): p2tog, p6, t+ky, k to end, turn;
    * p to m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 2 (RS): k2tog, k6, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 3 (WS): p7, t+ky, k to end, turn:
    * p to m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end
Row 4 (RS): k8, t+p, p to end, turn;
    * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat from * up to and including last marker, k to end
Row 5 = Row 3
Row 6 = Row 4
Row 7 (WS): * p to m, p1tbl,  repeat from * to end

Fold piece in half, right sides together. Your piece should now look as in photo 2.
Do a three-needle BO of 31 stitches (remove the stitch markers you encounter during the BO), secure the last stitch and turn the piece back right sides out. Your piece should now look similar to photo 3.

Part 4
Knitted in the round - with some short rows around the last stitch of the three-needle BO
Round 1:  pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap; * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, yo, slip marker, repeat from * once more, k to end, pick up 1 or 2 stitches from gap
Round 2: k1, ktog, k2, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p2, t+ky;
     k4, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 3: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
     p5, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
     k11, w+t;
     p13, t+ky;
     * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 4: k1, k2tog, k3, w+t;
    p6, p2tog, p3, t+ky;
    k11, w+t;
    p13, t+ky;
    * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl, slip marker, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 5: k2tog, * k to 1 bef m, yo, k1tbl, repeat once more from *, k to end
Round 6: * k to 1 bef m, k1tbl,  slip marker, repeat once more from *, k to end

Knit 7 rounds of p1, k1tbl-ribbing
Bind off loosely in pattern.

This blogpost was featured at Oombawka Design's Link and Share Wednesday Party 181 and at the Linky Ladies Party #93. Thank you!

My Knitting Failures in January

In January, I felt as though I had lost my knitting mojo ... Apart from the fact that I have currently, four half-finished knitting patterns not quite ready for publication, most of the new projects I started in January have somehow not worked, i.e. were (or will be) frogged.

The main reason I'm posting this is to say that nice knitting designs don't happen magically. Sometimes you've got an idea and it just doesn't work the way you planned it. You have to try, and try again and again and again ...

The first idea was for a new pair of fingerless mitts - again knitted in one piece with a special construction that wouldn't require to cut the yarn while. I planned to model it similar to the U-Turn mitts, but with a triagular (rather than round) turning. I had to start four times over to get the proportions right (short rows for the garter stitch ribbing vs. angles for the triangle on top). And the fifth time, I made it too wide to fit my hands. I am currently debating with myself whether to frog and forget it or whether to give the idea a new chance (and try again for the sixth time ...)

The second idea was a cowl knitted in the round with a fair isle pattern. I wanted the color A to blend into color B and then do it in reverse on the way back. I used some reclaimed yarn for this, i.e. yarn from a previous project that got frogged because I didn't wear it.
Unfortunately, my skills at this kind of colorwork are "suboptimal" (to put it mildly) and with this wriggly reclaimed yarn the color changes looked even worse than usual. I considered finishing it - hoping the problems would heal themselves in blocking, but in the end I decided to frog it again and start something different with this yarn.

The last project was a cowl I started as a "waiting room project";  I wanted to have something to knit to accompany my Mum to the hospital for a follow-up on her bone fractures. That meant it had to be

• easy to remember (no written or printed pattern to read),
• easy to carry, and
• something that wouldn't require me to make notes or take photos - for a pattern I meant to publish later. 

I settled on an idea for a short row design that I had drawn some time ago. It doesn't look too bad on the picture, but I don't quite like it. I'm not really sure why, perhaps the colors or the texture (I should have taken bigger needles). Not sure whether to try with bigger needles (and some other slight modifications) or to give it up completely.

The patterns and posts I published in January were actually knitted last year - so it didn't look so bleak on the blog :)

To finish on a positive note (and to give the absolute counter-example :) The pattern for the Ice Maiden Cowl was something that I wrote on a tiny Post-It note when I sat on the train to Zurich in November - planning an easy knitting project that could be done while playing Dungeons & Dragons. I only new that I wanted some intarsia pattern and I just wrote down some number (stitches of each colors) that I thought might work. I cast on and started it and even after I had knitted a few repeats, I wasn't sure whether to keep it or not ... But now that it's finished, I like it :)

Ice Maiden Cowl

This winter give a sparkle to your outfit with this beautiful colorwork cowl. It is knitted flat and all in garter stitch.

This knitting pattern is available for purchase 

• on Ravelry, 
• on loveknitting, and
• on Payhip. 

The pattern PDF contains both a written version and a chart.

To knit this cowl you need the following skills:

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Intarsia: Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy.
• Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.

Materials used to knit this cowl:

• about 210 grams of Sports weight yarn – in two colors, about 140 grams of the main color (blue in the photos) and 70 grams of the contrast color (white in the photos) - I used some beautiful Bilum yarn that I bought at Swisswullefestival (Bilum Lifestyle, to be precise) and some white merino as a contrast color. If you want to use a similar yarn - here's a link to Bilum's etsy shop. 
• 3.75 mm knitting needles
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle for grafting and for weaving in ends

Inbetween Mitts

To keep your hands warm why not knit yourself a pair of these colorful fingerless gloves. These mitts are perfect for the time between two seasons: in autumn or spring you can fold them down to have more freedom of fingers and in winter the upper ribbing covers most of your fingers and keeps them warm. That's why I called them inbetween mitts.

I also knitted them while I was living in a bit of an "inbetween" state. I was set to move back to my home country, but I had to fulfil a contract and therefore to stay on for two more months.

As many of my patterns these fingerless gloves have an unusal construction. They are knitted in one piece, partly knitted flat and partly knitted in the round. They are great to show off you colorful and variegated sock yarn.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

German / Deutsch: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung wurde von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog erstellt. Vielen lieben Dank. Details dazu in diesem Blogpost.

Danish / Dansk: A danish translation of this pattern was written by Marianne Holmen of strikkeglad.dk. Mange Tak! It is available here.

The pattern is written in a way that you can adapt it to most hand sizes. As an example, I have given the counts that I have used. These examples are written in purple.

Materials

• about 40 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 3mm needles (I used a set of dpns for parts 1, 4 and 5, and a circular needle for parts 2 and 3) and a third needle for the three-needle BO
• scrap yarn for the provisional CO(s)
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques

• Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Three-Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Picking up stitches from the side and knitting them (pick up and knit): https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw , https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g or https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q
• Short Rows in the Round (and t+ky) I learned short rows in the round with this helpful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCgycxLce94; however, I ended up doing the pick-ups differently.
  - "Wrapping" of the Stitches
  Basically, when you're on the RS, you do wrap the working yarn around the next stitch (from front to back) and then turn your work, i.e. the "normal" wrap and turn (w+t).
  When you are on the WS you slip the last stitch, turn your work with the yarn in front, wrap the yarn around the RIGHT needle and knit the slipped stitch. That creates a sort of double-stitch - one half of it has to be knitted together with the stitch in front when you're picking up the stitches. In the pattern, throughout the pattern I will call this stitch, t+ky (short for "turn and knit w/yarn-over").
  - Picking-up
  When encountering a w+t, I turned the wrapped stitch on the needle, picked up the wrap from the front and knitted the stitch and the wrap together through the back of the loop.
  When reaching the stitch BEFORE the “double-stitch”, I turned this stitch and knitted it together with the yo through the back of the loop. 
• Grafting in garter stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
• Knitted Cast-On: http://youtu.be/-nJKC2xT0Q4   
• Picking up stitches from a gap or ditch: After both three needle bind-offs there is one left over stitch which tends to have a distance to the stitches next to it. To avoid holes, I usually pick up one stitch from the gap and decrease over the new stitch in the following row (see also this YouTube video where it is shown on the example of a thumb gusset). In my experience (or the way I knit :) it's even better to pick up two stitches and knit decreases over them in the following two rows.

Gauge, Size and Possible Adjustments

The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to most hand sizes. However, in order to make the thumb fit, the gauge should roughly be as follows:

12 garter stitch ridges (i.e. 24 rows) gave 5 cm in height, and 13 stitches in garter stitch 5 cm in width. If your gauge is way off, you'd need to adjust the number of stitches for the thumb.

The finished piece (as knitted by me) measures 25 cm in length, and about 20 cm in circumference at the widest point. The lower ribbing (cuff) measures 9 cm, and the upper edge about 7.5 cm.

If you want to have the upper and lower ribbing longer or shorter. you can do this by adjusting the number of stitches you cast on in the beginning of part 1 and part 3.

General Construction

Each glove is knitted in five parts - see picture on the right.
Part 1 – the cuff – is knitted flat, in garter stitch only, with a few short rows for shaping. Part 2 – the lower triangle of the part that covers the palm is knitted in the round, also with short rows to achieve the triangular shape.  Part 3 – the upper ribbing and the rest of the part covering the palm – is knitted flat. Part 4 – the lower part of the thumb – is knitted in the round; and finally part 5 – the thumb ribbing – is knitted flat again.
The glove is knitted in one piece, i.e. you do not have to cut the yarn while knitting it and there are only two ends to weave in in the end.

Instructions 

Part 1: Cuff

pCO 25 and knit first row with working yarn

Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to end

Row 2 (RS): k all

Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to end

Repeat row 2 and 3 three more times

Row 10 (RS, WS): k14, w+t, k to end

Now repeat the following sequence until the cuff fits around your wrist:

Knit rows 2 and 3 five times, then knit row 10 once. Make sure to end on a WS row. (After a few rows, your piece should look similar to picture 1.) 

I continued this until there were 42 ridges at the narrower edge - then the cuff fitted around my wrist.

Move stitches from provisional CO to a third needle, hold togehter with current stitches and do a 3 needle BO until there is only one stitch left.

Part 2: Palm, lower part

Turn the mitt right sides out (i.e. so that the seam from the three-needle BO is on the inside). Starting from the stitch that is still on your needle pick up and knit stitches from the upper edge of the cuff. Join in round. Your piece should now look similar to the one in picture 2.

I picked up 42 sts from the edge and 2 sts around the stitch that was left over from three-needle BO, so in total I had 45 sts.

Now the mitt is worked in the round, but with a some short rows (worked back and forth) for shaping. The first stitch of your round is the stitch that is left over from your three-needle BO.

Count your stitches and - while knitting round 1 -  place one stitch marker at the beginning of the round. (end-of-round-marker, or EM for short), place another marker after half the number of your stitches (half-of-round-marker, or HM for short).

Since I had an uneven number of stitches (45 sts), I placed the marker between the 22nd and 23rd stitch and pretended I had an even number of stitches. 

Round 1: k all

Round 2: k to 3 sts before HM, mk1, k6, mk1, k to 2 before EM, w+t

   p to 2 before EM, t+ky, 

   k to end

Round 3: k all

Round 4: k to 6 sts before HM, mk1, k12, mk1, k to 4 before EM, w+t

   p to 4 before EM, t+ky

   k to 6 before EM, w+t

   p to 6 before EM, t+ky, 

   k to end

Round 5: k all

Round 6: k to 3 sts before HM, mk1, k6, mk1, k to 6 before EM, w+t

   p to 6 before EM, t+ky,

   k to 8 before EM, w+t

   p to 8 before EM, t+ky,

   k to end

Round 7: k all

Round 8: k to 6 sts before HM, mk1, k12, mk1, k to 10 before EM, w+t

  p to 10 before EM, t+ky,

  k to 12 before EM, w+t,

  p to 12 before EM, t+ky,

  k to 14 before EM, w+t,

  p to 14 before EM, t+ky,

  k to end

Round 9: k all

Round 10: k to 2 before the last w+t, w+t,

  p to 2 before last t+ky, t+ky,

  k to 2 before last w+t, w+t

  p to 2 before last t+ky, t+ky

  k to end

Repeat rounds 9 and 10 until there are only 6 or less stitches between the turns, i.e. until the shortest short row consists only of 6 stitches or fewer.

Since I had a total of 53 stitches in the round (I started with 45 and increase 4 x 2 stitches), I had to repeat both rows once more to have 7 stitches left between the last 2 turns. 

Part 3: Palm, upper part

From now on the gloves is knitted in rows, either from the outside or inside of the glove.

Row 1: (RS) k to HM, CO20 with knitted cast on (these 20 new stitches will be the upper ribbing and the end of the upper ribbing will be the new "end")

Row 2: (WS) k19, ssk, ssk, p end, pick up 1 stitch from gap to lower edge of knitted CO, then pick up 20 stitches from the lower edge of knitted CO - your piece should now look similar to the one in picture 3.

Row 3: (RS) k19, ssk, ssk, k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k to end

Row 4: (WS)  k19, ssk, ssk, p2, w+t, (RS) k to end, turn,

  (WS) k19, ssk, p2, w+t, (RS) k to end, turn

  (WS) k19, ssk,  p to last 20 stitches, k20

Row 5: (RS) k19, ssk,  k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k2, w+t, (WS) p2, k to end

  (RS) k19, ssk, k to end

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until there are 56 or fewer stitches on your needles (the 56 are: 2x20 sts garter stitch (upper edge) and 16 sts stockinette thumb gusset). Make sure to end after a row you knitted from the inside (i.e. with purl stitches between the upper edge (RS)). If you have 56 or less stitches and have just finished a row 4, do an alternative version of row 4 without any short rows and without any decreases (i.e. Row 5b: (RS) k20, p to last 20 sts, k20).

Try your mitts on. if the upper edge does not fit around your fingers, you can add to the upper edge garter stitch ribbing by knitting a few garter stitch ridges as follows:
Row 1: k20 turn (do not wrap)
Row 2: k20

Hold right sides of the upper edge together and do a three-needle BO of the upper 20 stitches (see picture 4. Secure the stitch that's left over from the three-needle BO and turn the upper part back right sides out.

Part 4: Thumb, lower part

Starting with the stitch that's left over from three-needle BO start the thumb. There are about 16 sts left. Pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap between the leftover stitch and the rest of the stitches, knit the 16 stitches, and pick up 1 or 2 stitches from the gap on the other side. Over the next four rounds, knit stockinette stitch while decreasing over the stitches you picked up over the gap - until there are 16 stitches left (or the number of stitches you're aiming for).

If there were 16 stockinette stitches left after part 3 was finished:

Round 1: k2, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1

Round 2: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1

Knit about 2 more rounds of stockinette stitch.

Part 5: Thumb, ribbing

This bit is really very fiddly - if you don't like doing this, you can alternatively just knit a few rows of k1p1-ribbing and then bind off loosely. But I wanted a "garter stitch" ribbing to finish the thumb, so I did it as follows.

With scrap yarn do a provisional CO of 7 stitches on a new needle. Hold this needle close to the thumb stitches of your glove and (as RS) knit these 7 new stitches. As WS, sl1, k5, and do an ssk with the last of the new stitches and the first of the original thumb stitches on your needle. Then turn your work, slip the first stitch (the ssk from the last row) and k to end (RS). As WS, again sl1, k5, and do an ssk with the last of the new stitches and the next of the original thumb stitches (see photo 5). Repeat until all the original thumb stitches have been used.

Move the stitches from the provisional CO to a new needle and graft both sides in garter stitch (see photo 6). 

Currently my favorite combination - Inbetween Mitts and my Ojos de Bruja scarf

This blogpost was featured at the Linky Ladies Community Link Party No. 91 and at the Knitting Love monthly link party #19. Thank you!

Translations of My Patterns

During the last years, quite a few people have volunteered to translate one (or quite a few) of my patterns. Thank you all for your work! Currently, there are translations to German, Danish, Dutch, Italian, Russian and Czech.

 

Here's a list of the translated patterns sorted by language:

Deutsch / German

• Inbetween Mitts: Überersetzung (und Fehlerkorrektur) von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog
• Sparkler Mitts: Übersetzung durch Heikeshaekellust - (eifelgirl1 auf Ravelry)
• Zoom Out Fingerless Gloves: Übersetzung durch Mykoya (Ravelry Mame)
• Pieces of Eight Mitts: Übersetzung von Renate Schattschneider (wwmaid auf Ravelry)
• Zimtsterne Fingerless Gloves: Übersetzung von Bernadette von „Törtchens Blog“  (In diesem Blogbeitrag hat sie ihre Erfahrungen beschrieben).
• Circle Mitts: Übersetzung von Liesl24 (Ravelry-Name)
• U-Turn Mitts: eine deutschsprachige Anleitung, die auf der Idee der U-Turn Mitts basiert gibt es unter dem Namen Kehrtwende bei Ravelry (translation by stebo (Ravelry-Name))
• U-Turn Hat - auf Deutsch Wendepunkt Mütze genannt
• Triangulation Pulswärmer: erstellt von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog
• Burgdorf Cowl
• Bauklötze Schal
• Kleine Rechtecke Schal 
• Through Thick and Thin Schal
• Wellengang Schal 
• Streifen, Streifen und Streifen Schal 
• Narrenkappe
• I ♥ Intarsia (Topflappen)
• Dreieck (Untersetzer)
• Ostereier
• Tipsy Toe Socken

Nederlands / Dutch

• Crochet U-Turn Mitts: translation by sannemethorst (Ravelry name)
• Pieces of Eight Mitts: translation by mijikke (Ravelry name)

Italiano / Italian

• Octavo Fingerless Gloves: translation by Vera Piglialepre.
• Ojos de Bruja Scarf: translation by fellow raveler mariarosaknits (from Fili & Colori - The Knitting Room). She also made a YouTube video to explain the techniques (with "subtitles" both in english and italian) - here on YouTube. 
• Circle Mitts: translation by Maria Rosa Spighetti (mariarosa72 on Ravelry). 

Dansk / Danish

• Chevrons All Round Cowl: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Helgoland Mitts: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Hexagon Mitts: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Papagena Scarf: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Pieces of Eight Mitts: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Mixed Wave Mitts: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Mixed Wave Cowl: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Queen of Diamonds Scarf: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Zimtsterne Fingerless Gloves: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Knit-Only Slouch Hat: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Summertime Garter Stitch Top: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• No-Assembly Required Top: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• All Fingers and Thumbs Gloves: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) 
• Ojos de Bruja Scarf: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Seifenblasen Lace Scarf: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Inbetween Mitts: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)
• Garter Stitch Haramaki: translation by MarianneHo (Ravelry name)

Français / French

• Sparkler Mitts: translation by Sophie Gelfi from Easy Crochet.

русский  / Russian

• Papagena Scarf: Available as a video tutorial  by lutik (Ravelry name)
• Circle Mitts: translation by purke (Ravelry name) 
• Random Bubbles Lace Scarf: Available as a video tutorial by lutik (Ravelry name)
• U-Turn Mitts: translation by horoshogromko (Ravelry name)

Česky / Czech 

• Almendra Cowl: translation by Nemravka (Ravelry name)

Japanese / 日本語::

• Starburst Mitts: video tutorial Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと) on YouTube. You can find it here (part 1).and here (part 2).¨
• Pieces of Eight Mitts: A video tutorial in japanese has been provided by Kabosu (かぼすの手しごと). It can be found on YouTube here: Part 1, Part 2

Arabic

• Water Lily: translation by Ma_Yarns (Instagram name)

Octavo Fingerless Gloves - Modello di lavoro all'uncinetto

Now available: an Italian translation of the Octavo Fingerless Gloves. Mille grazie to Vera Piglialepre for this translation.

(Edit: 26.09.2021: updated PDF pattern link - somehow google seems to have changed the links on GoogleDrive so the old links weren't working anymore)

The original english version of this pattern is available in this blogpost.

Buon divertimento!

Knit-Only Slouch Hat

To combat the current cold weather, knit yourself a stylish hat with an interesting detail at the crown. It is worked only in knit stitch, so it's the perfect for knitters who do not like to purl. The pattern is written in a way that it can be adapted to your head size.

As with many of my patterns, I don't give exact stitch counts. For the decrease rows, for example  I will ask you to count your stitches and decrease to 64 stitches over the next 3 rounds. If you don't like these kinds of instruction, you probably won't like the pattern.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Dansk / Danish: A danish version of this pattern is also available. It was translated by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) and can be found here.


Materials

• a total of about 80-90 grams of Sport weight yarn - about 70-80 grams of the main color (MC) and about 10 grams of the contrast color (CC)
• 3mm needles (for the brim or ribbing)
• 3.5mm or 3.75mm needles (for the main part of the hat) - I used circulars for the main part of the hat and dpns for the crown, but you can used dpns throughout
• a crochet hook for provisional CO
• scrap yarn for provisional CO
• a stitch marker
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

If you use a different yarn weight, use needles that are slightly larger than what the yarn calls for for the brim and bigger needles for the main part.


Techniques

• Provisional CO:  My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
• Three Needle Bind Off: https://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
• Pick up and knit: As shown in one of these YouTube-videos: https://youtu.be/4XtGL8vJf-g, https://youtu.be/htAHtNnuE7Q or https://youtu.be/oUPhLYkC0Fw  

Instructions

Brim
With smaller needles:
Provisionally CO 16 sts
Row 1 (MC): k all stitches
Row 2 (MC): k all stitches
Row 3 (CC): k all stitches
Row 4 (CC): k all stitches
Row 5 (MC): k all stitches
Row 6 (MC): k all stitches
Repeat these 6 rows until the piece is long enough to fit around your hat when stretched.

Put the stitches from the provisional CO on a knitting needle and do a three needle BO. Your piece should look similar to picture 1.

Cut both yarns.

Main Part
With MC and bigger needles pick up and knit 4 stitches per 3 garter stitch ridges. Join in round and place end-of-round-marker. Knit about 15 cm of stockinette rounds (or until the hat is "slouchy" enough for you).
Count your stitches and over the next 3 rounds, decrease the number of stitches to 64 stitches.
(Just for example, here are my stitch counts: I had 132 stitches and decreased every 4th stitch in the first round (about 99 stitches left), every 4th stitch in the second round (75 stitches left) and then distributed the necessary 11 decreases equally in the third round.)

Crown
Distribute the 64 left stitches on 4 needles. Your piece should look similar to picture 2. (If you only have circulars, you may want to put stitch markers after every 16 stitches).
Now you will work with the first 16 stitches and the adjoining stitches on both sides.

Row 1 (CC): k15, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch on the first needle and the first stitch on the adjoining needle), turn
Row 2 (CC): k15, k2tog (i.e. the last stitch of your row and the first stitch on the adjoining needle, turn
Row 3 (MC): k15, k2tog (again, the last stitch on your "working needle" and the next stitch on the adjoining needle), turn
Row 4 (MC): k15, k2tog, turn
Row 5 (MC): k15, k2tog, turn
Row 6 (MC): k15, k2tog, turn
Repeat rows 1-6 four more times (after a few rows, your piece should look similar to picture 3), then knit rows 1 and 2 one more time.

Now you should have a total of 2x16 stitches left - one needle of the 16 sts that you just worked in CC, and another needle of 16 stitches that haven't been worked with since the main part.

Turn the hat inside out (see picture 4) and with MC do a three-needle bind off.

Weave in ends.