Stacked Stitches

I've long admired the beautiful patterns with stacked stitches created by Xandy Peters - available on Ravelry or from her website "So I make stuff", e.g. the absolutely gorgeous Fow Paws pattern or Ribbon Candy. I really wanted to be able to do this technique and design something with it.

When I first tried the technique, it took me a while to get the hang of it - because, frankly, the stacked stitches all bungled up on the needles feel weird. But once I got over that (and got my maths right), stacked stitches have a certain rhythm to them and are really fun to knit.

The piece shown below is going to be a double-length cowl, knitted flat with the ends grafted together. (I like that construction :)

Videos explaining how to do stacked increases and stacked decreases can be found on the "So I make Stuff"-YouTube channel.

Cordillera Scarf

A beautiful scarf to show off the contrast of two skeins of the same variegated yarn started at different places in the color sequence. It is knitted from end to end all in garter stitch.

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.




Materials

• a total about 150 grams of fingering weight yarn - in two colors  (I used two skeins of Noro Taiyo Sock but started at a different point in the color sequence)
• 3.5 mm needles (straights or circular)
• 1 stitch marker

Techniques and Notation

• Changing colors with the intarsia technique - as shown in this YouTube video by knitwithpat; or this YouTube video by Francoise Danoy.
• k8 (C1); k8 (C2) means knit 8 sts in C1 and knit 8 sts in C2 - i.e. the color is indicated in brackets after the stitches and color changes are indicated by a semicolon

Size
I did a total of 9 repeats before I started decreasing. My scarf is about 190 long and - at its widest point - 40 cm wide.

Instructions
CO8 (C1) and CO8 (C2)
Setup Row 0: sl1, k7 (C1); place marker; k8 (C2)

Increasing Part
Ridge 1: sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, kfb, k to 5 sts bef marker (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, kfb, k to marker (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, kfb, k to marker, k5 (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 5 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 19: sl1, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 20: sl1, kfb, k to marker (C1); k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker (C2); k to end (C1)

If you prefer to work with charts, here's a chart of the increasing part.

Chart 1: Increasing Part of Cordillera Scarf

Repeat Rows 1 to 20 until you have reach half of your desired length.

Decreasing Part
Ridge 1: sl1, k2tog, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k to 5 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k2tog, k to 4 sts bef marker (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1, (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k4 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k3 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k2 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k1 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k to marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker, k5 (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k2tog, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k to marker, k5 (C1); k to last end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 5 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k2tog, k to marker, k4 (C1); k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 4 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k to marker, k3 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 3 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k to marker, k2 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 2 sts bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 19: sl1, k to marker, k1 (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to 1 st bef marker (C2); k to end (C1)
Ridge 20: sl1, k to marker (C1); k to end (C2) // turn // sl1, k to marker (C2); k to end (C1)

Chart 2: Decreasing Part of Cordillera Scarf

Repeat until there are only 8 sts of each color left. Instead of a the last WS row bind off in pattern.
Weave in ends and block.

This page was feature on Fiber Tuesday Link Party #51 by Ouicrochet and on the Knitting Love Monthly Link Party #8. Thank you!

  

Patterns with a Knitting and Crochet Version

Some people like to crochet - some people like to knit. I like both crafts and I really like designing fingerless gloves that have a bit of a special construction, e.g. started from the thumb or worked flat. They are all quite interesting for using up self-striping yarn. For some of these I have written both knitting and crochet versions - i.e. I have copied myself :)
Here's a list of these patterns.

U-Turn Mitts

These mitts are started with a magic cast on at the edge of the hand - and then forming a U shape around this cast on.
They mitts are worked flat - except for the thumb which is worked in the round.
The U-Turn mitts (crochet) were the first crochet pattern I ever published. Somebody's comment gave me the idea of trying to work out one of my patterns in crochet in the first place.

U-Turn Mitts (knit version)
U-Turn Mitts (crochet version)




Circle Mitts & Kreisel Fingerless Gloves
These mitts are started at the thumb and then grow in circle shape around it. When the mitt is big enough to fit around the hands, the sides are joined at the edge of the hand and the mitt is finished with the shaft. In the knit version, you switch between knitting in the round and knitting back and forth. In the crochet version, you only knit back and forth to achieve a continuous structure.

Circle Mitts (knit version)
Kreisel Fingerless Gloves (crochet version)



Pieces of Eight / Octavo
These mitts are also started at the thumb. Then the eight shape is worked - and finally the mitt is "widened" by back and forth rows. These mitts are a bit of a topological challenge, but the effect is quite beautiful.

Pieces of Eight Mitts (knit version)
Octavo Fingerless Gloves (crochet version)






Starburst / Sparkler
These mitts are worked flat. The shaping is achieved with short rows, which means that in the end there are more rows at the edges and less rows at the thumb.

Starburst Mitts (knit version)
Sparkler Mitts (crochet version)

Barton Cottage Wrist Warmers

I've recently been rereading some Jane Austen novels - I especially like "Sense and Sensibility". That's what inspired me to knit a pair of long wrist warmers - they might be useful during a cold winter in a Devonshire cottage.
Of course, they are useful in modern times as well. Especially, if you work in a draughty office :)

This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Materials

• about 170 meters of fingering weight yarn; I used exactly one skein of Lang Baby Alpaca
• 3mm needles - I used dpns, but you can use circulars, too, if you prefer the magic loop method
• a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Gauge and Measurements

A finished wrist warmer measures 19 cm in circumference at the top (near the wrists) and 24 cm at the bottom (near the elbow). Its lenght is about 1 cm. 

In stockinette stitch 5 sts/8 rows equaled 2 cm.

Special Stitches and Abbreviations

• mk1p: make one purl stitch, as methods 1 or 2 as shown in this YouTube video by Knit Purl Hunter.

Instructions

CO42 and join in round, place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round

Rounds 1, 2 and 3: * p3, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p1, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 10, 11 and 12: * k7, p3, k1, p3 repeat from * to end

Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p1, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p2, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Chart for rounds 1 to 18 (1st and 2nd repeat of diamond pattern)

Repeat rounds 1 to 18 once more (2nd repeat of diamond pattern)

To widen the wrist warmers there are now increases (mk1p) made in the purl channels - each time in the first row of one repeat and in turns in the first and the second purl channel of one pattern repeat, i.e. the purl sequences get wider.

(3rd repeat of diamond pattern)

Rounds 1, * p1 mk1p p2, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 2 and 3: * p4, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p3, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p2, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p1, k7, p3, k1, p3 repeat from * to end

Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p2, k5, p3, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p3, k3, p3, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(4th repeat of diamond pattern)

Rounds 1, * p4, k1, p1  mk1p p2, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 2 and 3: * p4, k1, p4, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p3, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p2, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p1, k7, p4, k1, p3 repeat from * to end

Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p2, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p3, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(5th repeat of diamond pattern)

Rounds 1, * p2, mk1p p2, k1, p3, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 2 and 3: * p5, k1, p4, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p4, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p3, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p2, k7, p4, k1, p3 repeat from * to end

Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p3, k5, p4, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p4, k3, p4, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

(6th repeat of diamond pattern)

Rounds 1, * p5, k1, p2  mk1p p2, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 2 and 3: * p5, k1, p5, k7 repeat from * to end

Rounds 4, 5 and 6: * p4, k3, p5, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Rounds 7, 8 and 9: * p3, k5, p5, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 10, 11 and 12: *  p2, k7, p5, k1, p3 repeat from * to end

Rounds 13, 14 and 15: * p3, k5, p5, k3, p2 repeat from * to end

Rounds 16, 17 and 18: * p4, k3, p5, k5, p1 repeat from * to end

Knit round 2 once and then rounds 2 to 18 of the 6th repeat. Then knit round 2 two more times and bind off loosely in pattern.

Make two.

Weave in ends.

From Almendra Cowl to Zoom Out Mitts

Recently when I looked at the list of patterns on my blog's Ravelry Page I noticed that I had patterns starting with nearly every letter of the alphabet ... nearly. That made me want to complete the list ... and I finally made it in December with the Xmas Star Mitts.

I must admit that I "designed" the names of at least two patterns to have a complete set of all the letters of the alphabet (K and X were the most difficult :). But I am quite proud to have a full alphabet of free knitting and crochet patterns anyway.

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This list shows several things:

• I'm not good at naming patterns - that's why I sometimes ask for help in the knittingparadise.com forum.
• I like "nerdy" pattern names - or names that have some engineering, geometry or sci-fi connotation. 
• I really like hand accessories - 31 (!) of the patterns are fingerless gloves and wrist warmers.

The list also shows that currently (January 9th, 2016) there are 64 free patterns available on this blog.

Here's the list. Enjoy!

Edit: All patterns released after this blog post are listed in italics. Currently there are 192 different patterns available. (last edit: 06.05.2022).

A
Alignment Socks

All Fingers and Thumbs (fingered gloves)
Almendra Cowl
Ammonite Potholders

Amplitude Cowl
April Knitted Slippers

Autumn is Coming Bandana Cowl

B
Bamboo and Ruffles Wrist Warmers

Bärentatzen Scarf
Bartkauz Shoulder Warmer
Barton Cottage Wrist Warmers
Bat Mitts

Bath Rug
Battenberg Socks
Bauklötze Scarf (also available in German)

Biased Brioche Cowl
Bitilasana Yoga Socks

Blümchen Fingerless Gloves
Braid Theory Cowl
Brioche in Montreux Cowl
Bubblewrap Cowl
Burgdorf Cowl (also available in German)

C
Cable Experiment Mitts
Candy Corners Scarf
Checkered Lace Scarf
Citrus Fruit Potholder
Chevrons All Round Cowl (matches the Hexagon Mitts, also available in Danish)
Circle Beret
Circle Mitts (also available in aran weight version, in German, in Russian and in Italian)

Color Explosion Mitts
Cordillera Scarf

Crossbeams Cowl

Crossings Shawl

Cupcake Hat

D
Data Center Mitts

Daisy Potholders

Diamond Lattice Cowl

Domspitzen (Phone Sock)
Double Helix Mitts

Dreieck - Triangular Garter Stitch Coasters (also available in German)

E
Easter Bunny

Easter Bunny Egg Cozy
Easter Bunny Potholder
Easter Eggs (also available in German)

Egg or Avocado (Potholder)

Eckstein Socks
Edelweiss Flower Ornament (Crochet)
Edgy Fingerless Gloves
Eifel Cowl

Escalera Scarf
Esprit de l'Escalier Scarf

F
Falling Blossoms Scarf
First of August (Potholder)
Four Strand Cable Mitts
From Pantyhose to Phone Sock
Frost in March Hat

G
Garter Stitch Bias Top

Garter Stitch Haramaki
Garter Stitch Christmas Gnome
Garudasana Yoga Socks
Geranium Knitted Slippers

H
Hanabi Potholder

Helga Cabled Mitts
Helgoland Mitts (also available in Danish)
Helix Mitts
Hermes Socks

Herzchen
Hexagon Mitts in Two Colors (also available in Danish)

I
Ice Maiden Cowl
Iceberg Socks
Inbetween Mitts
Inclination Wrist Warmers
I ♥ Intarsia Washcloth (also available in German)

J
Jasmin (Potholders)

Jeans and Old Lace Fingerless Gloves
Jolly Waves Cowl

K
Knitty Egg Warmers
Knitted Pantyhose Scrunchy
Knit-Only Slouch Hat
Klecks Socks
Kreisel Fingerless Gloves

L
La Chocolatière Mitts (Crochet)

Last Minute Christmas Tree

Lateral Knitting (Sideways Garter Stitch Top)
Little Christmas Tree
Little Rectangles Summer Scarf (also available in German)

Little Snowman

Luftbläschen Brioche and Lace Scarf

M
Margarete Fingerless Gloves

Mauerblümchen Fingerless Gloves
Mermaids Garden Scarf
Mini-Cable Fingerless Gloves
Mixed Waves Cowl (also available in Danish)
Mixed Waves Mitts
Monster Tooth Scarf

N
Narrenkappe - Fool's Cap (also available in German)

Nautilina Scarf

Negative Spaces Scarf
Nikko Summer Crochet Hat
No Assembly Required Top
Nostalgia Brioche Cowl

O
Octavo Fingerless Gloves (Crochet, also available in Italian)
Ojos de Bruja Scarf (also available in Italian)
Onion Market Wrist Warmers
Osterspaziergang Socks
Oszilla Scarf

P
Papagena Scarf (also available in Danish and in Russian (as a video))
Patchwork Cowl

Pear Potholders

Perpendicularity Mitts
Pieces of Eight Mitts (also available in Danish)

Pixel Star (Potholder)
Plain with Picots (Wrist Warmers)

Pointy Hat
Pumpkin Potholders

Q
Queen of Diamonds Scarf

Querverweis Socks

R
Rainbow Pearls Cowl

Rainbow Mitts
Ramble Mitts

Random Brioche Scarf
Random Bubbles (Scarf)
Random Lace E-Book Sleeve
Random Lace Scarf

Random Lace Tiles

Rechteck - Rectangular Garter Stitch Doily
Rettangolini Scarf (Crochet)

Ripple Fingerless Gloves

S
Sankaku Wrist Warmers (Crochet)
Seashell Coasters
Seifenblasen Lace Scarf
Seitenstreifen Socks
Seitwärts Hat

Semiramis Summer Top
Serpentina Mitts

Seven Petals Potholders
Short Wave Mitts (also available in DK weight)
Sideways Cardigan

Sideways Garter Stitch Basket

Sideways Pumpkins

Sideways Yoga Socks
Skein Hash Cowl
Skew Symmetry Cowl

Slightly Slanted Fingerless Gloves
Snowflake Mitts

Snowy Xmas Tree
Sparkler Mitts (Crochet, also available in German and in French)
Stack Overflow Cowl
Stack Overflow Mitts
Starburst Mitts

Stella - Star-Shaped Potholders

Sternchen - Star-Shaped Ornament
Strata Fingerless Gloves
Striped Fingerless Gloves - The first ever pattern that I published.
Stripes, Stripes and Stripes Scarf (also available in German)
Summertime Garter Stitch Top

T
Tannenbäumchen Potholder
Tarn Scrunchy (Crochet)
Through Thick and Thin Scarf (also available in German)

Tipsy Toe Socks (also available in German)

Tipsy Toe Socks 2.0
Tomatoes and Coffee Socks

Traverse Brioche Scarf
Triangulation Wrist Warmers (also available in German)
Trikonasana Yoga Socks

Tulip

Tulpenzwiebeln Scarf

U
U-Turn Hat - another version in 6-ply yarn
U-Turn Mitts
U-Turn Mitts (Crochet Version), also available in Dutch
U-Turn Slippers
Undecided Slippers

V
Velvet Recycling Cowl
Vermicelli Autumn Wrap

W
Wanderlust Phone Sock
Waterfall Tunic

Water Lily
Wedges Wrap
Wellengang Short Row Scarf (also available in German)
Widow's Weeds Fingerless Gloves
Wölkchen Washcloth
Winding Mitts

Windrose

Wriggly Cowl

X
Xmas Star Mitts
Xtreme Slip Stitches Shrug

Y
Yet Another Heart Shaped Potholder

Yet Another Short Row Scarf
Yoga Socks for the Lounger

Z
Zaunkönig (Shoulder Warmer)

Zimtstern Mitts (also available in German)
Zoom Out Fingerless Gloves (also available in German)

Sparkler Mitts

Stylish with an interesting construction - these crochet fingerless gloves are worked flat and use short rows to form a circle around the thumb. Because of this unusual construction, they are great to show off variegated yarn.
These mitts are the crochet version of my knitted Starburst mitts.

Since I had some problems to find a name I asked the community of knittingparadise.com to help me come up with a name - thank you all for your great ideas. I finally settled for Sparkler - to go with the name of the knitted version of these mitts :)




This work by Kniting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.



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German version: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung wurde durch Heike von Heikehaekellust (eifelgirl1 auf Ravelry) erstellt und findet sich hier. Vielen lieben Dank dafür!

French Version: Une version française a été élaboré par Sophie Gelfi de Easy Crochet. Merci beaucoup!

Materials

• 3mm crochet hook
• about 40 to 45 grams of fingering weight yarn
• 4 removable stitch markers
• a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Techniques and Abbreviations

• tc: turning-chain
• sctbl: single crochet through back loop: http://crochet.about.com/od/crochetterms/tp/back-loops-only-or-blo.htm
• dec or sctog: dec or sctog: decrease by working 2 single crochet stitches together (in case of this pattern all dec sts are crocheted through the back loop of the 2 underlying stitches: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-decrease-single-crochet.html
• inc: increase by working 2 single crochet stitches into 1 sc below (in case of this pattern all increases are stitched through the back loop of the stitch below): http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-increase-with-single-crochet.html
• ridge: in this pattern I use the term "ridge" to describe two rows of sctbl stitches.
• crochet short rows (as done in this pattern (*)): work sc's (or sctbl's) up to the stitch indicated, then turn work (without a turning-chain) and start into the 2nd sc; when you're working over this turn in a following row, always crochet into the turning-sc as well. See pictures below.  (*) there may be different methods out there, feel free to try them.

Short Rows

• connect and turn with slip stitch: join the last stitch of one row to the edge of another side: insert your hook into the last stitch of the row AND into the stitch of the part you want to connect with (called here: the other side) - see picture 1 below. Yarn over and draw yarn through two loops (picture 2 below). Then complete the sc. Do a slip stitch into the next row on the other side before starting the next row (picture 3 below).

Connect and Turn with Slip Stitch

• join with single crochet: as shown in this YouTube video by tlcinspirations - however, in this pattern it's not used to join one side to the other, but to join the last row to the very first row.

General Construction

The mitts are worked flat in eight sections (from A to H). The diagram shows how  shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there in a full row.

It also shows the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting section F and G). Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an decrease in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.

Size and Gauge
This finished mitts measure 19cm in height - at their highest point. and about 19cm in circumference at the wrist.
11 rows of the used stitch (sctbl) equal 5 cm in height. And 12 stitches (sctbl) equal 5 cm in width.

Instructions

Section A

Chain 34 + 1 turning-chain

Ridge 1 : sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while placing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc

Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Ridge 3: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Ridge 4: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Ridge 5: sctbl 25 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl1, tc

Ridge 6: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Ridge 7: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Ridge 8: sctbl 8, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Now you should have a total of 35 stitches

Section B

Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch. tc, place marker A into the last st of that row

Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc 

Ridge 3: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc 

Ridge 4: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1, tc  

Ridge 5: sctbl 20 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 22 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 15, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 9: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 10: sctbl 8, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 11: sctbl 20 (up to and including M1), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should have a total of 28 sts
Your piece should now look similar to picture 1 of the illustration photos.

Illustration Photos

Section C
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 12, turn sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 16 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 19 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 10, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 6, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Now you should still have a total of 28 sts

Section D
Ridge 1: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl all while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, place marker B into the last stitch of this row, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 14, turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 15 (up to M2), turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 18 (up to M1), turn,  sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 14, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end tc
Now you should have a total of 26 sts
Your piece should now look similar to picture 2 of the illustration photos.

Ridge 9: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl to end, tc

Section E (= section D backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 14, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 18, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 5: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 14, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, sctbl 1, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 8: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl to last (while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch), fold your mitt along the folding line (right sides together) and connect last st to first st in row marked with marker B.
You should now have 28 sts.
Now your piece should look like picture 3 of the illustration photos.


Section F (= section C backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 6, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 2: sctbl 10, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 3: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 4: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 5: sctbl 16, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 6: sctbl 12, turn sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 8: sctbl to end, tc; turn, sctbl last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch - while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch
You should still have 28 sts.

Section G (= section B backwards)
Ridge 1: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 2: sctbl 8, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 3: sctbl 11, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 4: sctbl 15, turn,  sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 5: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 6: sctbl 22, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 7: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 8: sctbl 18, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 9: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch
Ridge 10: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to last 2 sts, inc, connect and turn with slip stitch

Ridge 11: sctbl to end, tc, turn, sctbl to last stitch before end, connect (you should now connect your row to the row marked with marker A) - while replacing to of the markers, M1 in the 9th stitch and M2 in the 12th stitch, tc

You should now have 35 stitches.

Section H (= section A backwards … nearly)

Ridge 1: sctbl 8, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 2: sctbl 15, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 3: sctbl 20, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 4: sctbl 25 (up to M1), turn, sctbl to last 3 sts, dec, sctbl1
Ridge 5: sctbl 19, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 6: sctbl 13, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 7: sctbl 7, turn, sctbl to end, tc

Ridge 8: sctlb 31, turn, sctbl to end, tc
Ridge 9: sctbl all, tc; turn, join all stitches to first row with single crochets.

Weave in ends.

Make two.

This pattern was featured at the Be A Crafter - Craftalong Link Party #124 , at the Link Your Stuff Link Party at Annemaries Haakblog, on the Fiber Tuesdays #43 {Link Party} at Oui Crochet and at Lunamon Design Link Your Stuff Link Party (Week 6) in 2016. Thank you!

Xmas Star Mitts

Hold a star in your hands with these beautiful fingerless gloves. They are knitted all in garter stitch with a star around your thumb.

The mitts are basically shaped like the Starburst Mitts I published a while ago, but with added colorwork to form a star around the thumbs.


This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.





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Materials

• a total of 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors (about 25 grams of color 1, C1, beige in the photos and about 15 grams of color 2, C2, blue in the photos)
• 3mm knitting needles
• 3 stitch markers (2 of which safety pins of similar)
• tapestry needle (for grafting and to weave in ends)

Gauge / Measurements

The finished mitts measure about 16 cm in circumference (around the wrists) and 18 cm high. (Gauge in garter stitch: 6 stitches and 14 rows/7ridges = 1 inch)


Techniques

• Short Rows (t+p): Short rows are one of my favorite knitting techniques because they not only allow you to shape your knitting but also to created interesting graphical pattern. There are several techniques for short rows – and it’s a matter of taste which one you prefer. I’ve recently learned a technique called German short rows: when you turn, bring yarn to the front and pull it back so that a sort of double-stitch is created, then knit back as usual - when you have to knit the double-stitch, be careful to knit it as one stitch (see also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6n561SMZXQ); this method has the advantage the no picking up of stitches is necessary. In the pattern, this stitch will be called t+p (turn and pull).
• Provisional Cast-On: This method of cast-on usually uses some waste yarn that can be remove later to get live stitches, these stitches can either be used to continue knitting in the opposite direction or to graft these stitches to the rest of your piece. My favourite method is the one using a crochet hook (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeExgbgTOgs). The first time you use your working yarn, will be called setup row in this pattern.
  There are other methods as well. E.g. the one explained in knitty (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html). If you use this method, you don’t need to knit the setup row (14 sts of C2 and 9 sts of C1), because you already have your first row of stitches in working yarn.
• Grafting: Grafting (also called kitchener stitch) is a great way to finish garments without a visible seam (If you want to know more about grafting – it’s different stitches and mechanics – you should read the “5 Grafting Myths”-series by Joni Coniglio on knittingdaily.com).
  To finish these mitts you need to be able to graft in garter stitch.
• Grafting in garter stitch (and here’s a video from knittinghelp.com that shows the technique: www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/grafting-garter-kitchener-stitch):
  Set-up stitch:
  - front needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
  - back needle: insert purlwise and leave stitch on needle;
  Then repeat the following actions:
  - front needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
  - back needle: insert knitwise needle into first and slide from needles (knit slip), insert needle purlwise into next stitch and leave on needle (purl leave)
• Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, slip the last stitch and insert the right needle in a loop of the edge stitch from the opposite side, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk); this will be called ssk+c (ssk and connect) in this pattern (see illustration photo 3 below) - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q.
  Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row in section F and G and sew the two sides together afterwards.

Illustration photos

General Construction

The mitts are knitted flat in eight sections (from A to H).
The diagram shows how the sections form the complete mitt, how many stitches there are between the edge and M1 (inner blue circle), as well as how the stitch count changes.
It also shows where the mitt is to be folded and which parts are to be attached to which when finishing the mitts (or while you're knitting sections F and G).
Sections E, F, G, and H are mirror images of sections D, C, B, and A respectively, i.e. where there is an increase in A, there is an decrease in H - and the short row lenghts are mirrored as well.


Color Charts - How to Read Them

When I started this pattern, I drew charts on squared paper because I found this much easier to work with. That's why I'm including the charts here, too.

Here's how to read the charts (example chart for sections A and H).

Example: Chart for sections A and H

• For the first section A you work from top to bottom. For the last section H you work from bottom to top - this is indicated by the big arrows on the side.
• One row indicates on ridge, i.e. one RS row and one WS row.
• White squares are knit-stitches in C1. Blue squares are knit-stitches in C2. The numbers in front of the row indicate how many stitches per color are in that row - the black number gives the number of stitches for C1 and the blue number the number of stitches for C2.
• The first stitch in every RS row is slipped to get a nice edge that can be attached to the other side easily. However, it is counted in the charts, i.e. if the chart tells you that the row begings with 7 C1 stitches, you do sl1, k6.
• When knitting the WS row, you knit each stitch in the color that they appear on your needles, i.e. any C1 stitch is knitted with C1 and any C2 stitch is knitted with C2.
• The blue vertical line marks the start of the thumb, i.e. the placement of the marker M1. The gray vertical dashed lines are only there as a counting aid, there are placed every five stitches from the beginning of the first row.
• The triangles mark that there is an increase or decrease. Both increases and decreases are made just before the last stitch of the WS row. That means for increases that you knit up to the 2nd stitch before the end and then do a kfb, k1. For decreases it means that you knit up to the last 3 stitches and then do an k2tog, k1. For sections A, B, C, and D I made the increases/decreases in the ridge with the triangle - for sections E, F, G and H in the ridge below; that way the stitch numbers work out.

These explanations and the charts below are sufficient to knit the mitts. Since some people don't like to work with charts, I spelled out all the sections below.

Instructions

Section A

Provisionally CO 23 stitches
Setup Row: with C2 k9, place marker (M1), k5; with C1 k9 - after you've done this, your piece should look similar to illustration photo 1.
Rigde 1: sl1, k6 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k8 (C1), k5 (C2), t+p, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k12 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 10: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k11 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 13: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k10 (C1), k5 (C2), t+p, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 16: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k9 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)

When you've finished section A, place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles ("marker A").

Section B

Ridge 1: sl1, k11 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k13 (C1), k3 (C2), turn, sl1, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k15 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last 2 sts (C1) kfb, k1
Rigde 9: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), turn, sl1, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k12 (C1), k5 (C2), turn, sl1, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k10 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)

Chart B: Sections B and G

Section C

Ridge 1: sl1, k12 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 7: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 12: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k14 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k16 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 17: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 19: sl1, k13 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 20: sl1, k15 (C1), k7 (C2), t+p, k6 (C2), k (C1) to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Ridge 21: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 22: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 23: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 24: sl1, k14 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)

When you've finished section C, place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles ("marker C")

Chart C: Sections C and F

When you've finished section C, place marker (e.g. safety pin) in the first stitch on your needles (marker C). Your piece should now look similar to the illustration photo 2.

Section D

Ridge 1: sl1, k16 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 7: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k19 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 12: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 13: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k14 (C1), k to end (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 18: sl1, k12 (C1), k8 (C2), t+p, k7 (C2), k to end (C1)

Chart D: Sections D and E

Section E (i.e. section D backwards)

Ridge 1: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 2: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k14 (C1), k to end (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1
Ridge 6: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k15 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 9: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k19 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last 2 sts (C1), kfb, k1  
Ridge 12: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 15: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 17: sl1, k16 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, k14 (C2), k to end (C1)

Section F (i.e. section C backwards)

During sections F and G, you will attach the last stitch of each ridge with an edge stitch of section C and section B respectively. For this you need to fold the mitt along the folding line (right sides out) and attach the sides as you go along - as explained above in "Techniques" and abbreviated with ssk+c in the pattern. Picture 4 shows how the mitt looks after you have knitted a few rows of section F when you connect the halves as you go.

Alternatively, you can just knit the last stitch of each row of section F and G; and sew the two edges together afterwards.

Start connecting the last stitch of the first row to the stitch that is marked by marker C folding the mitt wrong sides out and work your way upwards.

Ridge 1: sl1, k14 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c

Ridge 2: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c

Ridge 3: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 4: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c
Ridge 5: sl1, k15 (C1), k7 (C2), t+p, k6 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 6: sl1, k13 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 7: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 8: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c 
Ridge 9: sl1, k16 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 10: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 11: sl1, k14 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 12: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 13: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c   
Ridge 14: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c)
Ridge 15: sl1, k17 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 16: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 17: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 18: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k (C1) to last 3 sts, ssk, ssk+c 
Ridge 19: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 20: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 21: sl1, k4 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 22: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 23: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 24: sl1, k12 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c

Section G (i.e. section B backwards)

Ridge 1: sl1, k10 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 2: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 3: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 4: sl1, k12 (C1), k5 (C2), turn, sl1, k4 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 6: sl1, k14 (C1), k4 (C2), turn, sl1, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 7: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Rigde 8: sl1, k12 (C1), t+p, k to 3 sts before end (C1), ssk, ssk+c
Ridge 9: sl1, k15 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 10: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 11: sl1, k11 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 12: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 13: sl1, k13 (C1), k3 (C2), turn, sl1, k2 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 14: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 15: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c
Ridge 16: sl1, k11 (C1), k14 (C2), turn, sl1, k13 (C2), k to last stitch (C1), ssk+c

After connecting the edge stitches of sections F and G to the edge stitches of section C and B you should have reached marker A.

Section H (i.e. section A backwards)

Ridge 17: sl1, k9 (C1), k16 (C2), turn, sl1, k15 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 16: sl1, k7 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 15: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 14: sl1, k10 (C1), k5 (C2), t+p, k4 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 13: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 12: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 11: sl1, k11 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 10: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to last 3 sts (C1), ssk, k1
Ridge 9: sl1, k12 (C1), k3 (C2), t+p, k2 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 8: sl1, k9 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 7: sl1, k5 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 6: sl1, k8 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 5: sl1, k10 (C1), k4 (C2), t+p, k3 (C2), k to end (C1)
Ridge 4: sl1, k6 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)
Ridge 3: sl1, k3 (C1), t+p, k to end (C1)

Cut yarn both strands of yarn but leave tails of about 50 cm. Take out your scrap yarn of the provisional cast on and put the live stitches on a knitting needle. Graft in garter stitch: 9 stitches in C1 and the rest of the stitches in C2.

Weave in ends.
Make two.

This post was featured at Pinbellish Link Party No. 17.